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anchovies-msg - 4/3/10

 

Medieval anchovies. Recipes.

 

NOTE: See also the files: fish-msg, fishing-msg, fish-pies-msg, pizza-msg, eels-msg, stockfish-msg, garum-msg, pickled-meats-msg, snails-msg, caviar-msg, exotic-meats-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:13:17 -0400

From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>

Subject: Re: SC - Weird fish names

 

And it came to pass on 6 Sep 00,, that Nanna Rognvaldardottir wrote:

> Vicente wrote:

> >bisol: no idea whatsoever.

>

> "Bisso" and "bis" are Catalan names of the chub mackarel (Scomber

> japonicus colias), according to Mediterranean Seafood by Alan Davidson - I

> wonder if that could be it.

 

I think so.  Grewe (in the footnotes to _Libre de Sent Sovi_) says that

bisol is the plural of bis, and he identifies it as Scomber japonicus

colias.

> >saiton: described as a bitter fish, best eaten with the head and entrails

> >removed.

>

> Don't know - will see what I can find.

 

This one is more of a stretch, but... Grewe lists "seito" (also spelled

"xeyto" as a synonym of "aladroc", which is Catalan for anchovy

(Engraulis encrasicholus).  This is confirmed by the second website

listed below.  However, I do not know fish well enough to know if the

anchovy matches Nola's description.

 

Here are the websites I mentioned, which have some lists of Catalan

food terminology.  They are modern, but may still be of help:

 

http://www.uib.es/secc6/slg/gt/noms_peixos.html

http://www.gencat.es/dict/serveis/servling/alimenta.htm

 

Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)

 

 

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 11:28:06 -0500

From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>

To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Anchovies - what to do?

 

On Jan 30, 2010, at 3:24 AM, Volker Bach wrote:

<<< Salvete all.  It's great to have Turkish communities in your city! I  

just got a kilo of deep-frozen Black Sea anchovies very cheap. Not  

salted, not filleted, not even gutted. My question is - what do I do  

with them? I know that I can just fry them up whole and crunch them  

like sardines, but is there anything else?

 

Garum, maybe? My neighbours would probably lynch me.  Any advice  

appreciated.

 

Giano >>>

 

A quick search using the handy search feature through Doc's website  

medievalcookery.com reveals:

 

This is an excerpt from Libre del Coch

(Spain, 1520 - Robin Carroll-Mann, trans.)

The original source can be found at Mark S. Harris' Florilegium

 

219. ANCHOVY in casserole. The anchovy is commonly bitter, and because  

of this you must remove the head together with the intestines and wash  

it, and clean it well, and then take all common spices, and also put  

in raisins, and almonds, and pine_nuts; and the almonds must be  

scalded and blanched; and then mix them with the raisins, and almonds,  

and pine_nuts, and with all the good herbs, and with the fish. And let  

everything be mixed in the casserole with a little oil. These  

casseroles are better to cook in the house than in the oven; and for  

the most part, they should be eaten in the month of April.

 

You could treat them like sardines-

 

This is an excerpt from Le Menagier de Paris

(France, 1393 - Janet Hinson, trans.)

The original source can be found at David Friedman's website

 

Sardines, gutted, cooked in water, and eaten with mustard sauce.

 

I suppose the search would broaden out if done under fish and then you  

looked for small fish.

 

Johnna

 

 

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2010 11:59:22 -0500

From: "Daniel & Elizabeth Phelps" <dephelps at embarqmail.com>

To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Anchovies - what to do?

 

les anchoyes au percy, oygnions et vin aigre, et la poudre par dessus

Du fait de cuisine, f. 56v

 

The above simple list/recipe translates loosely into English as:

 

anchovies with parsley, onions, vinegar and powdered over with what is

probably "fine powder".  "Fine powder" per the Menagier de Paris is:

 

"prenez gingembre 1.3, canelle triece 3, giroffle et graaine de chascum demy

quart d'once, et de sucre en pierre 3, et faictes pouldre"

 

It should be noted that in various versions of Menagier the proportions of

these spices vary.  That being said this, translated into the modern, works

out, per Scully and Scully, as:

 

3 tbs. ground ginger

1.5 tbs. cinnamon

1 tsp. grain of paradise

1 tsp. ground cloves

2 tbs. sugar

 

The recipe as worked out makes some assumptions.  The onions and anchovies

need to be cooked for one thing, presumably sauted in olive oil, and the

mixture combined with vinegar, the parsley and the spice powder.

 

Having reviewed Scully and Scully's recipe the following is my redaction:

 

Take three parts chopped onion to one part olive oil and saute the onions in

the oil.  Take 3 parts red wine vinegar add it to the onions.   Lacking

fresh anchovies add 3 to 4 parts anchovies canned in oil  and a equal amount

of parsley, both of which you have chopped fine, to the mixture.  Add the

spice powder to taste.  Serve the result as a spread on toast points.

 

References:

Scully, D.E. & Scully, T., 1995, Early French Cookery, University of

Michigan Press, Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA

 

Caridoc, Duke & Diana Alena, Duchesa, 1987, A Collection of Medieval and

Renaissance Cookbooks, Privately Printed

 

There is also the example of Mike's lunch menus, which featured anchovies,

that was sent to me some time back.  Here is the passage of interest sent to

me by Christianna some time back.  Hope it is of use and she doesn't mind.

I've thought to do a reproduction of the lunch as an A/S entry but not

gotten around to it.

 

"The one real find for me was when I turned a corner to see a small piece of

paper in a frame on the wall, with pictures of food items on it. When I got a

closer look, I was amazed! It was an envelope that Michalangelo received in

1518, that he had then outlined menus on for illiterate servants. Here is the

text from the blurb on the wall next to it: "Always frugal and often dealing

with illiterate assistants, Michalangelo sketched these three menus (for two,

four, and six people) on the back of a letter he received in 1518. His

annotations read "Two rolls, a pitcher of wine, a herring, tortelli; four

rolls, a pitcher of wine, a small quarter of a rough wine, a plate of

spinach, four anchovies, tortelli; six rolls, two fennel soups, a herring, a

pitcher of wine. "Each item has a picture of it drawn next to it. I sketched

the whole thing, and I wish I could post it, but don't have the technology

right now to do it. (Yes, I stood there a really long time, came to within 6

inches of it but no closer, my lord got close enough for the guard to inhale

sharply  ;)The rolls are just circles, 2,4, and 6 of them. The pitcher of

wine has a handle, the quarter of a rough wine ('en quartucco di bruscio') is

a small pitcher approximately a quarter of the size of the big one. There are

a couple of fish outlined (herring = 'una aringa'), and a couple of bowls

of what must be salad, also a flatter plate that might be the spinach or

the tortelli. The soup ('duo minestro di finochio') is shown in a large

tureen(footed), with something coming out of the bowl and hanging over the

sides (3 of them), I'm guessing it is fennel stalks used for decoration,

and possibly to be served with the soup. The last reference to wine reads

'ubochal di tondo', which the book states was probably a reference to

wine from the Calle Tondo, a local regional wine. It is supposed that this

lastone was added by one of Michalangelo's sculptural collaborators,

Pietro Unella (? I'm not sure of his last name), because his writing is all

over other daily expense account records, and Michalangelo himself was so

frugal that the finer wine might not have been his idea. As usual, he is

presumably talking to cooks, so he gives no preparation instructions. I am

guessing that the spinach would be a plate of raw leaves, perhaps dressed

with olive oil and salt. Maybe cooked lightly? My lord conjectures that as

herring is a cold water fish, it might be a preserved item, bought in

barrels, while the anchovies might be a fresh 'catch of the day' from the

Mediterranean. The bread ('pain dua', 'quatroparni', and 'sie parni'), look

like simple round rolls. Christianna

 

A photo of the 1517 letter is reproduced

in Gillian Riley's _Painters and Food: Rennaissance Recipes_, p. 36.Ms. Riley

selected 3 recipes from period sources (eg Platina) for Stewed Fennel,

marinated anchovies and aromatic spinach (cooked). Unfortunately, Ms Riley

does not provide the original recipe texts, nor the period cookery

sources."

 

Daniel

 

<the end>



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Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org