Period dishes of meat rolled with a filling.
NOTE: See also the files: meat-pies-msg, pies-msg, Carbonadoes-art, sauces-msg, roast-meats-msg, steaks-msg, venison-msg, lamb-mutton-msg.
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Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 04:47:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Roboscribe at aol.com
To: "SCA - Madrone's Culinary Guild" <culinary at u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: need recipe, please!
Pleyn Delit offers the following recipe:
Stuffed Beef Rolls
4 thin slices of steak (3/4 - 1 lb)
1 t. finely minced parsley
1 onion, minced
1 - 2 boiled eggs (yolks only)
1 t. bone marrow, butter or other cooking fat
1/4 t. each ginger and salt
(optional: sm. pinch ground saffron)
juice of 1/2 lemon or 1 t. vinegar
scant sprinkling of pepper, ginger, cinnamon
Mix together parsley, onion, 1 egg yolk (mashed) or one whole boiled egg
(chopped small) with marrow or fat, ginger, salt, and saffron. Spread this
mixture on the steaks, then roll them up securing with toothpicks and/or
string. Put on skewers for easy turning and broil for about 10-15 minutes,
turning to brown all sides of the rolls. When they are nicely browned, put
them on a serving dish and sprinkle over them the lemon juice or vinegar, a
dusting of pepper, ginger and cinnamon, and crumbled yolk of harboiled egg.
You can use thin slices of lamb steaks, if you prefer.
Donn
Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 18:46:46 -0700
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - birds/olives/roulades, please!
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
>anyone have a recipe (either the original text, or ideally, the original
>plus an already tested version) of birds, or olives,....you know, meat
>bits, stuffed (egg yolk, breadcrumbs and spice?) and rolled up and
>cooked, either boiled or roasted or grilled or skewered..
From the Miscellany:
- ---
Alows de Beef or de Motoun
Two Fifteenth Century p. 40
Take fayre Bef of †e quyschons, and motoun of †e bottes, and kytte in †e
maner of Stekys; †an take raw Percely, and Oynonys smal y-scredde, and
yolkys of Eyroun so†e hard, and Marow or swette, and hew alle †es to-geder
smal; †an caste †er-on poudere of Gyngere and Saffroun, and tolle hem
to-gederys with †in hond, and lay hem on †e Stekys al a-brode, and caste
Salt †er-to; †en rolle to-gederys, and putte hem on a round spete, and
roste hem til †ey ben y-now; †an lay hem in a dysshe, and pore †er-on
Vynegre and a lityl verious, and pouder Pepir †er-on y-now, and Gyngere,
and Canelle, and a fewe yolkys of hard Eyroun y-kremyd †er-on; and serue
forth.
1/2 lb lamb or beef 1/4 t ginger pinch pepper
1/3 c chopped parsley 4 threads saffron 1/4 t more ginger
1/4 c finely chopped onion salt 1/4 t cinnamon
2 hard-boiled egg yolks 1/4 c vinegar 1 more hard-boiled egg yolk
1 T lamb fat or marrow
Meat is sliced 1/4" thick; slices should be about 6" by 2". Spread with
parsley, etc. mixture, roll up on skewers or toothpicks, broil about 10-12
minutes until brown. Mix sauce and pour over. Makes 6-8 rolls 2" long and
1" to 1 1/2" in diameter.
Also, it isn't exactly what you describe, but take a look at
The Flesh of Veal
Platina p. 94 (book 6)
Also in the Miscellany.
David/Cariadoc
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 17:42:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Terri Spencer <taracook at yahoo.com>
Subject: SC - Platina meat roll w/questions
As Mistress Christianna has previously posted, she has a great deal of
cooked ground beef, and is giving large packages to anyone standing
still long eno...willing to cook it in a period fashion for this weeks
Baronial meeting/party.
I've been looking for a preparation that can redeem this cool, dry
ingredient that was grilled instead of boiled and treated with warming
spices as a medieval cook would have done. I'm also looking for finger
food for practical purposes. I think I've found a good candidate in
Platina Book VI, #9:
Meat Roll from Tame Animals
...take as much lean meat as you want (calf, capon, hen or the like)
and cut it up fine with small knives. Mix veal fat into this meat well
with spices. When it has been wrapped in thin crusts, bake in an oven.
When they are almost cooked, put on the roll two egg yolks...beaten
with a paddle with a little verjiuce and very rich juice. Some add a
bit of saffron for looks...
I can spice the meat with ginger, cinnamon & pepper, and add a bit of
fat, egg and verjuice to combat the previous dry cooking (and bind it).
But I have a few questions:
Would the thin crusts be pie crust? Pastry? Phyllo dough? Do we know?
What is "very rich juice" (put on the crust w/eggs and verjuice)?
Am I right in thinking of this as a spiral roll that could be sliced
into rounds for serving (vs. meat pie or meat surrounded by crust)? Am
I wrong? Is there one true way?
Tara
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 09:31:11 -0400
From: "Jeff Gedney" <JGedney at dictaphone.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Recipe Challenge again???
This is an easy one, and very tasty.
>From "an Ordinance of Pottage" ( no fair using Heiatt's redaction!!)
Taken from the Beinecke Manuscript "MS Beinecke 163"
"Alosed Beef
Take lyr of beef; cut hem in lechys. Lay hem abrode on a bord.
Take the fatte of motyn, or of beef, herbys & onions hewyn togefyr,
& strew hit on the leches of beef with poudyr of pepyr & a lytyl salt,
& roll hit up therynne. Put hem on a broch; rost hem."
( try these at the next weekend barbecue ...even the mundies love it! )
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 10:47:19 -0400
From: "Jeff Gedney" <JGedney at dictaphone.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Recipe Challenge again???
> Sounds like roulades of beef or aloes of beef, or beef rolls. How would
> the rolls be affixed, with string or toothpicks is the usual method,
> although none is mentioned here.
Sure there is, I think you just missed it. At the end is the instruction:
"Put hem on a broch; rost hem"
("Put them on a spit, and roast them")
As I do it, I take the rolled slices of beef, and thread them on skewers
and slap em on the "barbie". My folks _love_ this recipe.
( it is very good for catering, IMHO, cause it can be baked, as well,
and the portionings are very controllable.)
My folks were kinda shocked to find out that the recipe was essentially
the same as was served in 14th century England...
I'll post my redaction later. FWIW, this works with a cheaper cut of meat
because of the addition of fat to the mix.
brandu
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 18:37:12 EDT
From: allilyn at juno.com
Subject: Re: SC - Recipe Challenge again??? "Alosed Beef"
On Thu, 01 Jun 2000 09:31:11 -0400 "Jeff Gedney" <JGedney at dictaphone.com>
writes:
>This is an easy one, and very tasty.
>
>>From "an Ordinance of Pottage" ( no fair using Heiatt's redaction!!)
>
>Taken from the Beinecke Manuscript "MS Beinecke 163" "Alosed Beef
>Take lyr of beef; cut hem in lechys. Lay hem abrode on a bord.
>Take the fatte of motyn, or of beef, herbys & onions hewyn togefyr,
>& strew hit on the leches of beef with poudyr of pepyr & a lytyl salt,
>& roll hit up therynne. Put hem on a broch; rost hem."
>
>(try these at the next weekend barbecue ...even the mundies love it!)
1 beef loin, sliced against the grain--1/4" slices. Mince some lamb or
beef fat, (or use some olive oil if you're a wimp about health issues)
minced onions, parsley (I prefer cilantro) and oregano, mixed with the
finely minced fat, pepper (with my allergy, I sometimes use a hint of
grains of paradise, instead), salt; roll and skewer, thread the rolls on
ka-bob skewers, roast over charcoals, turning as needed.
Regards,
Allison, allilyn at juno.com
PS I don't mean to be rude to those who must watch their cholesterol--I
just like to at least try things the original way. This is good.
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 02:37:30 EDT
From: allilyn at juno.com
Subject: Re: SC - Recipe Challenge again??? "Alosed Beef"
I only measure amounts if I'm doing a dish for a feast, and need to tell
someone else how to cook it. At home, I just do it.
OK, we've got beginner cooks, here, too, so let's see. An average rump
roast, as sold in many grocery stores of the buy one get one free sales,
would cut into 10-12 slices. For rump roast, I'd also use Adolph's
Unseasoned tenderizer, following jar directions--wet, sprinkle, pierce,
wait.
Use the fat trimmings from the roasts--won't be many, so get some fat out
of your zip-lock baggie in the freezer, from trimming fattier roasts, and
mince a generous 1/2 cup. 1 bunch of cilantro, washed, dried, stemmed,
and minced. Oregano--depends on whether you have fresh or dried and how
old it is. 1 tablespoon, dried, ought to do it. The pepper or salt or
ground grains of paradise must be to your taste. When I use the
tenderizer, I often leave out the salt.
How does this sound? (Never timed the beef rolls on the grill or in the
broiler--"until it's done").
I got to liking beef rolls that our cook made in Germany, that had long
green beans, and sometimes strips of carrot as the filling. I think she
browned the roladen, then perhaps oven-sauteed them. I think I remember
a bit of au jus over them. Keep hoping I'll run into a similar recipe in
period, but so far have only found the herb stuffings.
Regards,
Allison, allilyn at juno.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:21:37 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: Re: Subject: SC - Roast beef kinda long
> Ron Rispoli" <rispoli at gte.net>
> Subject: SC - Roast beef
>
> This recipe confused me a bit the title says ribs of beef
> (Alows de beef or de mutton) but the recipe calls for rump
> (quyschons). I'd be interested to hear what others can do with this.
>
> Take fayre bef of the quyschons, or motoun of the bottes,& kytte in the
> maner of stekys: Than take raw Percely, & Oynonys smal y-scredde,& yolkys
> of eyroun sothe hard, & Marow or swette, & hew alle thes to-gedder smal; than
> caste ther-on poudere of gyngere & saffroun,& tolle them to-gederys with
> thin hond, & lay them on the stekys al a-brode,& caste salt ther-to; then
> rolle to-gederys, & putte hem on a round spete, & roste hem til they ben
> y-now: than lay hem in a dysshe, & pore ther-on vynegre & a lityl verious, &
> pouder pepir ther-on y-now, & gyngere, & canelle, & a fewe yolkys of hard
> eyroun y-kremyd ther-on; & serue forth.
>
> This is from "A Fifteenth Century Cookry Boke" by John L. Anderson
Alunder of Beef
The “main work” herein after referred to is A Proper Newe Booke of Cokerye,
16 Century, edited by Catherine Frances Frere, Cambridge; W. Heffer & Sons
Ltd, 1913
This stuffed beef roll can be found under the guise of “Alowes of
Beef/Mutton” (H.M.279 1420), “Alaunder of Beef” (New Boke of Cokery, 1470)
and in our main work as “To make a pye of Alowes”.
The recipes found involve cutting steaks of beef or mutton and making a
stuffing that almost invariably contains parsley and thyme, suet or bone
marrow and various spices . The recipe I chose to redact is the one from our
main work and it is presented here for your viewing.
To Make A Pye of Alowes
Take a legge of mutton and cutte it in thyn slyces, and for stuffing of the
same take perselye, tyme, and sauerye and chop them smal, then temper among
them three or iiij yolckes of harde egges chopt smal and small reysons,
dates cutte with mace, and a lyttle salte, then laye all these in the stekes
and then role them togeather.
This done make your pye, and laye all these therein, then ceason theym wyth a
lyttle suger and cynamon, sauron and salt, then cast upon them the yolckes of
three or foure harde egges and cut dates, wyth small raysynges, so close your
pye, and bake hym. Then for a syrope for it, take roosted breade, and a
little claret wyne and strayne them thyn togeather, and put thereto a lyttle
suger, synamon and gynger and putte it into your pye and then serve it forthe.
Redacted recipe:
2 lb Blade roast sliced into rolls .25 lb butter
2 c tyme .5 c raisins
2 c parsley washed, chopped small .5 tsp mace
1 c shredded onion .25 tsp cinnamon
2 raw eggs .25 tsp saffron
.25 tsp salt
Sauce:
1 cup red wine
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
Combine the stuffing ingredients and fill the roast. Tie the roast into a
roll. Place the roll into an oven-proof dish . Mix the sauce and pour over
the roast. Roast at 325 degrees for 1 hr or until meat thermometer reaches
140 degrees. Baste occasionally. Slice and serve.This recipe has been adapted
for a feast by using larger roasts, however, the original recipe calls for a
smaller steak, stuffed and baked within a pastry pie crust.
Hauviette
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:23:08 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: SC - Roast beef kinda long
Stefan li Rous wrote:
> > 2lb Blade roast sliced into rolls
> What does this mean? Most roasts I can think of are more or less brick
> shaped and are not flat. Does this mean get a roast that is sliced
> fairly flat? If so, how thick? What do you mean "sliced into rolls"?
> Shaped like biscuits or dinner rolls? Or sliced flat for rolling into a
> snail/spiral shape?
The latter, more or less. (I'm guessing, anyway.) For example, start
with a hunk-o-meat shaped roughly like a small loaf of bread, grain
running lengthwise, and approach with a long, sharp knife held parallel
to the cutting board, maybe half an inch off the board, making an
incision along the length of the roast. When you have a respectable flap
cut free, but still attached on one edge to the hunk-o, roll the hunk-o
away from you, leaving the flap flat on the board with the hunk-o
attached. Repeat this process of slicing and rolling until you have the
entire roast reduced to one large, continuous slice.
> How do you fill this roast? Do you slice the slices and inject it there?
> Or do you mean between two slices and roll them up in the snail shape?
Spread your filling across the slice and roll it up like a jelly roll.
> Do you place this snail shape lying on it's side or upright? I assume
> the former since that would absorb/keep the sauce on top better.
Not sure. On occasions when I've done things like this, I've found it
better to cook it on its side.
What I did find was an excellent way to cook from the original recipe
was to ask my butcher to run trimmed bottom rounds of beef through the
deli slicer about half an hour before scheduled pickup (this type of
meat, most raw, thin slices, in fact, will begin to deteriorate and
oxidize fairly quickly, losing its bright red color and becoming
somewhat brownish... of course this happens when you cook it, too, but I
wouldn't want the slicing done too far in advance). We then held a
stuffing bee on site, roasted them till almost done, and when they were
sizzling hot, dipped the skewers in a tall pitcher of our egg-yolk
batter for glazing, which promptly began to cook and stuck to the hot
meat. We then finished them in the broiler, and they went over extremely well.
Considerations about bottom round being tough weren't much of an issue
between the thin slices (perhaps 1/8" thick) and the moist,
marrow-filled stuffing. I'd chosen that cut for its, um, structural
integrity. Top rounds, for example, are made up of more than one muscle
and would lead to split slices.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:58:12 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: Roast beef kinda long- explanation
I'm sorry Stefan! The recipe I posted was from a feast I did and I really
hadn't thought about the person reading the instructions!
Here is my explanation,
I had very large roasts to begin with (I forget the particular cut) so I used
a knife to open them by cutting in a few inches into the roast, then letting
that fall open and continuing to cut so that I was creating a semi flat piece
of meat in the end. I think this is called "flaying".
Then I layed the the stuffing on the flayed meat and rolled the whole product
so that it was kind of like a pinwheel. I tied it with butchers string and
roasted it. Once it was roasted I cut slices of the roast across the roast so
that you had a "jelly roll slice".
Hope that helps.
Hauviette
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 01:16:05 -0400
From: Marian Rosenberg <Marian at therosenbergfamilies.net>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Pastillus - Redaction & A Recipe
VI 9 Meat Roll from Tame Animals
I call tame animals all which are nourished at home, like calf, capon,
hen, and the like. From these, you make a roll thus: take as much lean
meat as you want and cut it up fine with small knives. Mix veal fat
into this meat well with spices. When it has been wrapped in thin
crusts, bake in an oven. When they are almost cooked, put on the roll
two egg yolks separated from the white and beaten with a paddle with a
little verjuice and very rich juice. some add a bit of saffron for
looks. This roll can even be made in a well-greased pan without a
crust. For special pleasure, cook in a roll capon, pullet or whatever
you want, whole or cut up in pieces. There is also much nourishment in
this; it is slowly digested, has little indigestible residue, aids the
heart, liver and kidneys, is fattening, and stimulates the libido.
(Milham 271, 273)
This recipe seems straightforward enough. Chopped meat mixed with
spices and rolled in dough. Brush the dough with egg yolks, verjuice,
and saffron ... mostly for color but also for a bit of the sharpness.
If I were cooking this for a feast I might even make it that way.
But I was cooking this as a test run on Pennsic lunch pastries. And I
had lots of yummy fresh vegetables about the house. And no verjuice.
And no saffron.
It worked. It worked really well. And if no longer a period recipe, it
probably counts as peri-oid.
Ingredients -
1 pound ground beef
1 large onion
4 large button mushrooms
1 handful shiitaake mushrooms
1 green pepper
2 eggs
garlic
ginger
cinnamon
cloves
black pepper
pastry dough of some type (I used pre-made dough from the Asian grocery)
Chop vegetables finely.
Mix meat, eggs, and spices together.
Mix meat mixture and vegetables together.
Wrap in dough.
Bake at 400 degrees for 35 minutes turning every 10 minutes.
Cool.
Serve.
-M
<the end>