sauces-msg – 3/5/17
Period sauces. Sauce recipes.
NOTE: See also the files: green-sauces-msg, broths-msg, eggs-msg, camelne-sauce-msg, garlic-sauces-msg, vinegar-msg, verjuice-msg, garum-msg, mustard-msg, Mustard-art.
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NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com>
To: sca-cooks at eden.com
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 12:16:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Saracen Sauce
Sue Wensel wrote:
> What are the ingredients of your Saracen Sauce?
>
> Derdriu
Blanched (presumably peeled) almonds, toasted in olive oil until light
brown, cooled, and ground into fairly fine meal. Rose hips are an
optional addition, they would make the dish more tart than it would be
without them. This is then either "drawn up" with hot almond milk, capon
broth, red wine, or some combination thereof. It should be quite thick,
and if it isn't thick enough, you can thicken it with rice flour. It
should be red in color, traditionally alkanet is the standard coloring,
but I'm not certain I'd use anything but standard red vegetable
coloring, unless perhaps I used a bit of powdered red sandalwood, which
is also a bit iffy. Standard garnish are a sprinkling of pomegranite
cells, berries, seeds, etc (whatever you call them).
I don't have a modern redaction at hand, but could probably produce one
pretty easily...
Hopeful regards,
G. Tacitus Adamantius
From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com>
To: sca-cooks at eden.com
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:18:42 -0400
Subject: sca-cooks Re: Garlic
Mark Harris wrote:
> Ok. Now I'm not sure what a "jance" is, but I like Garlic.
A jance is any of a variety of French ginger based sauces, usually, but
not, I think, always made with milk. They are similar to a modern white
sauce except for a thickening of bread and/or egg yolks instead of
flour, and always contain plenty of ginger. A yellow jance contains some
saffron, a green jance parsley, and garlic jance, well, use your
imagination. You find recipes for them in the Viandier de Taillevent,
and probably also in Le Menagier de Paris.
> Stefan li Rous
Adamantius
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:29:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido at aol.com
Subject: SC - sauces-longish
<< salmon is
> tempered with sauce cameline....but are there not more flavorful things than
> cinnamon to put onto salmon? >>
There are several approaches to the sauce "problem". The one I use is to make
my sauces vrey potent so to speak. In several attempts at doing period sauces
I have found that the more concentrated they are the better they are. (e.g.
the concentration of modern worchestershire or oyster sauce or catsup, etc.
I think sometimes as SCA cooks we tend to mistakenly associate the word sauce
with gravy and try to come up with something that can be "ladled" over the
dish instead of , IMO, more correctly spooned over it.
To support this theory, I would suggest you redact and try one of the fish
recipes from Apicius. When I did this I thought YUCK! but after actually making
the dish, the sauce turned out to be excellent and the serving size was
approximately 1 tblsp. per portion. My mouth waters just thinking about it.
Keeping in mind that modern sauces such as catsup contain things we wouldn't
think appropriate (e.g. cinnamon, cloves, vinegar, etc.) or the anchovies
and citrus fruits in Worchestershire, the long slow cooking necessary for a
good sauce blends and reformulates the original raw flavors into a single
amalgamated whole. Try it you might like it. :-)
Lord Ras
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 03:30:44 -0500
From: gfrose at cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter)
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #209
Hi, Katerine here.
Anna of Dragonsmark asks whether, given that medieval sauces were designed to
balance the humors of the meats, we should be devising new sauces better to
suit current materials.
I believe not, for two reasons. First, I'm not at all certain that I grant
the premise. I know that Scully has a bee in his bonnet on this subject,
but other scholars by no means universally agree. Certainly there are tracts
from the middle ages that argue for this -- Magninus Mediolanensis is an
example -- but there's no evidence for it in the *culinary* literature, and
it isn't clear that the medical literature isn't rationalizing practice as
opposed to guiding it. Further, the repertoire of sauces is stable with
respect to names and general natures of sauces -- though not at all with
respect to their details -- over a period of two centuries; and the changes
do not reflect changes in the theory of the humors nearly so much as those
we see throughout the cuisine as a whole.
Second, I'd rather use the medieval main ingredient, or as close an analog
as we can find, at which point rebalancing makes little sense. I think, in
a sense, the quesion whether cinnamon is the most tasty spice to put on salmon
gives the show away: the desire is to have a different sauce for *flavor*, not
for any medieval reason. In that case, I'd be far more inclined to go with a
different *medieval* sauce. There are many suggestions of sauces to go with
fish; I would be far more inclined to find a medieval sauce I liked, and use
it.
So I don't think there's any rational argument that altering sauces for more
flavorful ingredients according to modern prejudices is a medieval practice.
Sauces *did* evolve -- but not randomly. If one wanted to study in detail the
patterns by which specific spices augmented or replaced others, and then
reproduce those patterns, that would be a medieval practice. But I've been
engaged in a detailed study intended to reveal that kind of pattern for
over five years, and I don't think I could begin to do it competantly. It
takes a *great* deal of work; without doing that work, you're just making a
modern sauce, and presenting it as medieval. I don't think that's appropriate.
To be clearer: one can, of course, serve whatever tasty food one likes. If
one wants to serve modern created dishes because one knows them, and does not
know medieval dishes one would rather serve, well and good. That, in itself,
is perfectly reasonable, though it is not what I would prefer to see. But
I think we have a responsibility not to try to rationalize it, or "pretty"
it over for SCA consumption, but claiming that it is in any way a
reflection of medieval practice. It's a deliberate move away from medieval
cuisine, based on a personal preference.
I don't think there's any moral imperative to stick to the medieval repertoire
(although I prefer to do so, and prefer meals where others have, provided that
they've also done the cooking well). I *do* think there's a moral imperative
to be honest about what we do. If we choose to be modern, we should be
honestly and openly modern. Anything else is both miseducating and lying.
Cheers,
- -- Katerine/Terry
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - sauces-longish
Noemi writes:
> Out of curiousity, and clarification, is a sauce something that is added to a
> dish just prior to serving? I was thinking of things like, for lack of a
> better and period example, things like a paprikas where it definitely has a
> sauce, but it is what the dish was cooked in as well.
At least for roast meats, a sauce was often added to a dish NOT prior
to serving, but by the diners themselves. Sorta like ketchup in a
modern restaurant. (Katerine, can you confirm this for me?)
It can work very nicely to serve a single big hunk of meat with three
or four different sauces on the side: it allows the diners to try a
couple of different flavors, and takes less work than preparing four
different dishes.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:16:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido at aol.com
Subject: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
<< I would love for someone to print a proper recipe and to note whether or
not the basic chutney is period. >>
Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
:-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
COMPOST
FC 103
Take rote of parsel, of pasternak, rafens, scrape hem and waische hem clene.
Take rapes & caboches, ypared and icorue. Take an erthen panne with clene
water & set it on the fire; cast all (th)ise (th)erinne. When (th)ey buth
boiled cast (th)erto peeres, & perboile hem wel. Take alle (th)ise thynges vp
& lat it kele on a faire cloth. Do (th)erto salt; whan it is colde, do hit in
a vessel; take vinegar & powdour & safroun & and do (th)erto, & lat alle
(th)ise thynges lye (th)erin al ny(gh)t, o(th)er al day. Take wyne greke &
honey, clarified togider; take lumbarde mustard & raisouns coraunce, al
hoole, & gynde powdour of canel, powdour douce, anys hole, & fenell seed.
Take alle (th)ise thynges & castt togyder in a pot of erthe, & take (th)erof
whan (th)oui wilt & serue forth.
There is a redaction in 'Pleyn Delit which, IMHO, deviates away from the
original in very significant ways so I am not posting it. My translation and
redaction follows:
Take parsley root, parsnips, radishes, scrape them and wash them clean. Take
turnips and cabbages, pared and cored. Take an earthen pan with clean water
and set it on the fire; cast all this therein. When they both boiled cast
therein pears, and parboil them well. Take all these things up and let it
cool on a fair cloth. Do thereto salt; when it is cold, do it in a vessel;
take vinegar and powder and saffron and do thereto, and let all these things
lie therein all night, other(wise) all day. Take Greek wine and honey,
clarified together; take Lumbard mustard and raisins of Corinth (currants ?),
all whole, and grind powder of cinnamon, powder douce, anys whole, & fennel
seed. Take alle these things and cast together in a pot of earth, & take
thereof when thou wilt and serve it forth.
COMPOST
FC 130
Copyright 1997 by L. J. Spencer, Jr. (a.k.a. Lord Ras al Zib)
1/2 cp parsley root, peeled and diced
6 parsnips, peeled and diced
1 medium black radish, peeled and diced
1 lb turnips, peeled and diced
1 gallon cabbage, cored and chopped
2 quarts winter pears, peeled, cored and chopped
Salt
1 bottle Retsina (Greek wine)
2 cps honey
2 quarts cider vinegar
.......................................
Powder:
1 cp sugar
1 Tblsp ground cloves
1 Tblsp ground cinnamon
2 Tblsp ground ginger)
.......................................
1 tsp saffron
1/2 cp ground white mustard (the supermarket variety)
1 lb dried currants
1 tsp cinnamon
......................................
Powder douce:
1 cp sugar
1 tsp ground cloves
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground ginger
1 Tblsp ground cubebs (opt.)
2 tsp groung galingal (opt.)
1 Tbsp grains of Paradise (opt.)
.......................................
1 tsp aniseed
1 tsp fennel seed
Place parsley root, parsnips, radishes, turnips and cabbage in a non-reactive
kettle (e.g. enamel, glass, or teflon. Cover with water. Bring to a boil.
Addd pears. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pears are barely tender.
Drain; spread on a cloth. Sprinkle with a substantial amount of salt and
leave until cold.
While mixture is cooling, bring wine and honey to a boil, removing the scum
as needed. When the scum stops rising remove from heat.
Put cooled cabbage mixture into a non-reactive kettle. Add vinegar, powder
and saffron. Let sit in a cool place for 12 hours.
Add remaining ingredients to the wine/honey mixture, stiiring well to make
sure that the sugar is dissolved. Add wine/honey spice mixture to
cabbage/pear mixture and blend carefully. Store in a cool place and use as
needed.
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:17:11 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
Uduido at aol.com wrote:
> Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
> :-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
> a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
> is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
>
> COMPOST
> FC 103
<recipe snipped>
I second the motion! Just a couple of comments on compost: there are
recipes for it in Le Menagier de Paris, as well as Das Buoch Von Guter
Spise, which primarily gives the recipe for the spiced sauce, and
suggests different vegetables that can be preserved/served in it. Also,
a variant can be found, I think, in the XIIIth century Northern European
cookbook, one version of which is also known as The Icelandic Medical
Misellany.
Best of all, I should point out that this stuff keeps for a long time,
especially if you put it, while hot, into a sterile canning jar. You
could do the whole thing with the pressure canner, I suppose, but I've
never found it necessary in this case. I have a couple of jars of
compost that are around two years old, and the one I opened last week
was just fine.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 17:38:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
Adamantius wrote:
> I seem to recall a recipe for aioli in an earlier Spanish
> source, but I'd have to look for the reference... .
It appears in the 14th-c. Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_. I might be
wrong, and it's in the 15th-c. Catalan _Libre del Coch_ instead, but I'm
pretty sure it's in _Sent Sovi_.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 09:41:40 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote:
> Adamantius sez:
>
> >Well, yes, apart from my understanding that la Varenne uses pork fat for
> >roux. It is at least recognizable, more or less. As for emulsified
> > he only says to use lard. Unless the mammocks are particular to pigs?
Funny, I don’t remember mammocks from my anatomy classes...
Jes' one a' those things modern science doesn't address...my dictionary
sez mammocks are fragments or shreds. Since lard is by definition porkfat (other animals give things like suet and tallow) I'd bet anything
mammocks are what we would call cracklings.
> > la Varenne _The French Cook_ a 1654 English translation of the 1651 work
> > THICKNING OF FLOWRE.
> Melt some lard, take out the mammocks, put your flowre into your melted
> latd, seeth it wel, but have a care it stick not to the pan
...Interesting that this appears to call for unrendered fat, something that
would probably have been on hand in the kitchen, anyway.
But yes, this is clearly a recognizable roux, in spite of the fact that
using fats other than oil or butter has pretty gone out, except in
special cases like beef gravy, etc.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:31:24 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - drawn butter?
Mark Harris wrote:
> What is drawn butter?
All right. In the "Everything Most People Never Wanted to Know
Department", I have my Official Drawn Butter Dissertation, which
actually may come in handy for some. (Hah!) ; )
Okay. Things that are, in archaic versions of English, drawn, are mostly
either eviscerated, which isn't an issue here, or made thick in some
way, which is. Examples are the instructions to draw up a thick almond
milk, or to draw something through a streynour, which more often than
not means to force the item through a strainer to puree it and thereby
make it smooth mixture, rather than lumps and water.
Butter is an emulsion, a perfect mixture of an oil and water, which
under normal circumstances don't want to mix. In this case, they do
anyway. When you melt butter, it becomes a relatively thin liquid, and
the emulsion "breaks" apart into its two parts again, which is why you
can skim the clear butterfat off the top, and leave the rest behind, and
it is this clarified butterfat that is what most modern people think of
as drawn butter (which, by the way, is NOT the same thing as the ghee
used in Indian and Midle Eastern cookery, but don't get me started).
In [late] period cookery parlance butter would have been "drawn" by
melting it VERY slowly and on a very gentle heat, like in a double
boiler or some such, with another liquid, beating it as it melts. So you
find sauces made from things like the vinegar that a fish was marinated
in, with butter melted into it and whipped to form a relatively thick,
creamy sauce, along the lines of modern beurre blanc or hollandaise.
Yummers.
Sauces like that are still made today on the Continent, especially in
France, Spain, Portugal and Italy. In England, however, somebody
conceived the idea that drawn butter should be made by making a roux
thickener of cooked flour and butter, turn that into a sauce by adding
water or vinegar or a mixture, or ale, or SOMETHING, and simmering it
for a bit, and then adding more butter, this time beating it in in the
traditional way. I don't know if this was developed by someone who felt
that the starch of the roux would keep the sauce more stable (so it
wouldn't break or de-emulsify on high heat), or if the issue was
expense, with flour and water taking the place of some of the butter, or
if they thought that simple butter beaten into a flavorful liquid was
just too rich, or what. In any case, flour-thickened drawn butter sauces
appear to have originated in England in the late eighteenth, early
nineteenth centuries. In spite of the fact that the sauce in the packet
of Lipton Rice or Noodles In Sauce is more or less made this way, with
dried butter solids and Wondra or some other pre-cooked flour stuff,
it's still a perfectly viable sauce. I like mine on peas, with a tiny
pinch of sugar and some chopped mint. (And STILL Lady Aoife thinks I
don't give English cooking a fair break! ; ) ) Some people like it on
Lutefisk, which is how we got on this topic in the first place, IIRC.
But, drawing butter up with a small amount of just water , or vinegar,
or some other watery liquid is still alive and well (in dishes like REAL
fettucine Alfredo, f'rinstance), just as it would have been done in
period. At least in late period, anyway.
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 17:32:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANN1106 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
I have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitter
orange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cut
the peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to the
juice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of a
lemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes before
straining and storing.
Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made from
Seville (Bitter) Oranges.
Audrey (aaparker at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:05:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: Re: SC - Classes: Last Minute Tips Request
<snip>
But: check out the sauces that Lord Julian le Scot made for Known World A&S
this year. He teaches a class on sauce making, and his redactions are very
good indeed. I especially like his mustard. The sauce vert was nummy,
too.
http://www.math.harvard.edu/~schuldy/kwas.menu.html
Tibor
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:44:13 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
Mark Harris wrote:
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
Sauce Hollandaise, as we now know it, is the modern descendant of
earlier forms of a sauce believed to have been brought to France by the
Heugenots. So, its prototype appears to have actually been a Flemish or
Dutch sauce thickened with eggs, like a savory custard, and perhaps a
little butter beaten in to smooth the texture. I'm not up on the finer
details of Heugenot history, but that would put the prototype sauce at,
what, late sixteenth, early seventeenth century?
Francois Pierre de La Varenne, in "Le Cuisinier Francois" (1651) gives
a recipe for a similar sauce, calling for "good fresh butter, a little
vinegar, salt, nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the sauce; take care that
it does not curdle." We have no ingredient measurements or proportions,
though, let alone any additional method or instructions, so it's hard
to say how close to Hollandaise this is. There are a number of examples
of contemporary French and English sauces made by beating soft or melted
butter into things like vinegar, and there seems to have been an equally
prevalent tradition in Germanic countries of thickening sauces with egg
yolks.
Modern Hollandaise sauce is usually made by warming egg yolks in a bowl,
over a pan of hot water, and whipping them until light with vinegar,
lemon juice, salt, white and/or cayenne pepper. You then beat in melted
or clarified butter, a tiny bit at a time, as you might with mayonnaise,
until it is light yellow in color, thick, and the sharpness of the lemon
and the vinegar is a bit more subdued. More daring cooks will often omit
the bain marie / double boiler aspect, and do it right in a saucepan
over direct heat. Of course, then it is more likely to curdle and
de-emulsify or break.
Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
which offhand.
I'd have to say my feeling is that Hollandaise sauce as we know it today
is OOP, but that there might be recognizable ancestors from within
period.
Adamantius
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 20:58:03 -0500
From: margali <margali at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
>
> Stefan li Rous
well, you can buy something called hollandaise sauce in packettes, and
something yellowish and drippy in jars they swear is hollandaise
sauce...
you take lots of butter, yolks of eggs beaten, either lemon squeezings
and zest OR an herbal vinegar, salt and pepper to taste-
get the butter melted but not boiling hot, put the eggs in a sauce pan,
and start whisking. pour the butter in while whisking until it thickens.
when the sauce is pretty much done, add the salt and pepper, and the tsp
or so of liquid flavor. provided it hasnt curdled, you have hollandaise
sauce. if you are in practice, it takes as long as the packette of
powdered stuff.
i use the egg whites in the scrambled eggs to fill the crepes, but you
can use it to make anything calling for just the whites.
a good hollandaise should make the capillaries scream for help!
margali
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 09:58:12 PST
From: "Alderton, Philippa" <phlip at morganco.net>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
My step-mother makes a very good mock Hollandaise sauce which is both tasty
and easy.
1/2 cup mayonaisse (Hellman's)
2 teaspoons prepared mustard
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Mix and heat through, stirring. DON'T BOIL.
It's nice for those occasions when you have forty-eleven other things to
do, and don't really have the time to make a proper Hollandaise.
The day she gave me the recipe, she was making a Holiday brunch for 15-20
people, and she had a recipe for Eggs Benedict in which you poached the
eggs the night before, kept them in a pan of water overnight, and heated
and served the next day. Folks, you have not lived until you learn to poach
eggs by the pot of simmering water method, with 3 dozen eggs to have done!
I got her an egg poacher for Christmas- we still laugh about it.
Phlip
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 21:56:58 EST
From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Cracknels
<< I'm finding it hard to imagine a sweet pudding-like dessert
with pork or some sort of fatty cracklings in it, but just because it
seems strange to me doesn't prove anything at all!
>>
Since so many recipes from period seem to me to resemble mincemeat and I have
no aversion to sweet meat, I often serve a wonderful relish made with apples,
onions, green peppers, garlic, pepper and brown sugar to accompany roast
pork.
Ras
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:10:04 EST
From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com>
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
dkpirolo at cts.com writes:
<< 3. Is mayonnaise period?
In Ancient Cuisines , Jeff Smith cites an ancient Greek recipe which calls for
a vinegar, oil and egg and indicates that he thinks this is a "mayonnaise"
recipe. However, the majority of food experts place it well within the modern
era.
Ras
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:20:40 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
The first example of an emulsion sauce I've seen is in la Varenne, 1651.
Before that, sauces are all thickened with particulates or through
reduction. So I would say no, mayonaisse is not period.
- --Anne-Marie
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:40:16 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
I _think_ there's an emulsified (which is the key for the creaminess of
mayonnaise) sauce in Manuscrito Anonimo, which is a puree of garlic,
and, I think, hard-boiled egg yolks, with olive oil beaten slowly in.
That's probably about as close as you'll find until the eighteenth
century or so. If you look at one of the Spanish cold garlic soup
recipes, or a French rouille recipe, you'll find something like it,
except the period equivalent would lack the red peppers and occasional
potato found in rouille.
Adamantius
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 13:04:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: SC - hollandaise, aioli, almedroch
Also in the Stone Ages, Gideanus wrote:
> Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
> believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
> other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
> or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
> which offhand.
In the c.1400 AD Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_ are the following two
recipes (our translation; be warned that neither of us has formal
training in medieval Catalan, or modern Catalan for that matter).
Sorry I don't have the original Catalan on-line; it's on paper in a
pile somewhere in this house.
141 Almedroch
If you wish to do almedroch, take grated cheese and two or three cloves
of garlic, and mince them [until they're stiff & can be shaped]. And
when they are minced, temper them with hot water, and when you
[axetars]? them, don't use the pestle to immediately disintegrate them,
but only mince them finely. And it should be of a good thick
consistency. And if perchance they are destroyed, take a large spoon,
and heat it well on the fire; and when it is well heated, put it into
the almedroch, and stir it around, and it will return to its state.
142 Almedroc with eggs
If you wish to make almedroc, you will have 2 or 3 cloves of garlic and
cheese, as in the previous recipe for almedroch. And crush them very
well, and crush into them two or three eggyolks boiled in water. And
when it is well mixed, [exetats] it with good broth and butter. And if
you don't have butter, add a little oil and good spices. And make it a
consistency that is thick, and don't cook it. And use it on pork, that
goes on the spit. And it should not be tempered, which will destroy
it, but left as flavored as it is. In the same way is made [esquesos]
garlic, but make it with more garlic. And don't put in seasonings &
spices, except to make it white and thick, and don't let it boil. And
it serves to give heat when used thus with almedroc.
The first, from the directions for how to rescue it if it is
"destroyed", is apparently an emulsified sauce of cheese and garlic,
and the second is the same thing with boiled eggyolks (which, as I
understand it, help to stabilize the emulsion), as well as broth and
butter.
Marimar Torres, in her book on modern Catalan cooking, _The Catalan
Country Kitchen_, gives a recipe for "allioli", which she translates as
"garlic mayonnaise", made from minced garlic, a raw whole egg, olive
oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. She comments that "Purists in
Catalunya insist on making their allioli in a mortar and pestle, but I
always use a food processor...." I've read elsewhere that "purists"
don't include egg in their allioli, relying on compounds in the garlic
alone to stabilize the emulsion.
On the subject of "eggyolks boiled in water", I recall that the 13th-c.
Arabo-Andalusian _manuscrito anonimo_ contains LOTS of recipes calling
for boiled eggyolks. In particular, one entitled "Cooking Stuffed
Eggplants" (which I included in my T.I. article of c. 1994, "Some Recipes
of al-Andalus"), that says "...boil eggyolks and also fry them a little..."
One possible interpretation was to boil eggs, peel them, extract the
yolks, and then fry them, but on a lark I tried separating raw eggs,
dropping the yolks gently into near-boiling water (which I had handy,
having just boiled eggplant in it), then fishing them out with a slotted
spoon and frying them in oil (which I had handy, having just fried the
eggplant in it). This works, and the yolks have a rather different
texture from what they would have if boiled inside the rest of the egg.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 23:11:21 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Garden time
> On the same line, Horseradish recipes????? Please?
There's a recipe for a horseradish sauce in the German corpus. Horseradish
root, vinegar, a bit of sugar and spice, if memory serves. Tasted just like
the non-cream style stuff out of the jar.
- --AM
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:25:51 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Pine nuts
For a nice fish sauce (Greek, and probably period), heat a cup of
pomegranate juice, thicken it with bread crumbs, and stir in about three
tablespoons of pine nuts.
Bear
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:12:07 -0500
From: vjarmstrong at aristotle.net (Valoise Armstrong)
Subject: Re: SC - Jellies vs. aspics
Allison wrote:
> As for cooked, sweetened, mashed fruit, you get 'mus' in
>the German corpus, which turns out like applesauce, etc., depending on
>the fruit. It is used generally as a sauce.
Actually mus refers more to dishes of a certain consistency than to fruit
sauces. That's why you can find not only grape, fig, cherry, or apple mus,
but also mus recipes for wine, fish, egg, crayfish, chicken, rice, etc.
Some of them (even the fruit ones) are thickened with bread crumbs or eggs.
Probably the closest thing to conserves or fruit paste would be latwerge,
basically fruit thickened by cooking it down. I think Kuchenmeysterei (c.
1490) might have a recipe, I don't know of any others.
Valoise
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:16:17 -0500
From: "J. Scott & Arisa Ballentine" <ballentine at earthlink.net>
Subject: SC - RE: roux from a newbie
Philip & Susan Troy quoted:
>> How long you brown
> > the flour determines the final color of the gravy, short time for white
> > gravy, browned well for up to 10 minutes for really dark gravy. It
> > develops a stronger, nutty flavor the longer it cooks (this is what the
> > Cajuns call a roux, BTW).
Well, the French certainly use the term roux as well. There are 3 classic
stages of roux:
white: cooked just enough to get rid of the starchy taste - no color change
- very strong thickening power.
blonde: also called "popcorn" roux because there is only a slight change of
color, but a distinct nutty flavor like fresh popcorn - strong
thickening power.
brown: dark, rich roux, usually takes up to thirty minutes to fully establish
this roux - very little thickening power - very flavorful - most
people stop here.
The Cajuns have added an additional step:
black: extremely dark roux, cooking time is usually at least one hour (note:
this is usually taken from brown to black in a slow oven), extremely
flavorful, this is the difference between good gumbo and gumbo -
virtually no thickening power.
Fergus Stout
[editor’s note - roux are a post-1600 development, but I thought this message
interesting and useful.]
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:23:15 EDT
From: Mordonna22 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - low calcium diet help
ghesmiz at UDel.Edu writes:
<< or if it is possible to make
a cream sauce out of "non-dairy creamer"? or any simple and quick
multi-purpose sauces that would be low calcium? >>
An easy cream sauce can be made with powdered non-dairy creamer:
Easy "Cream Sauce"
2 cups stock, milk, or water
Salt and pepper to taste
garlic to taste
4 heaping tbs creamer
2 rounded tbs corn starch
1/4 c water
Heat liquid to slow boil, add seasonings and creamer, mix corn starch with
cold water and add to boiling liquid.
stir vigorously with whisk until thickened and smooth.
Mordonna DuBois
Cook, Warrior Haven
(who has lived and eaten on a meagre budget at times)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:45:52 EDT
From: RuddR at aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: Walnuts
<Salut!
I know that Juglens nigra is native to the US, but is there an old world
walnut? If so, has anyone tried making "walnut milk," or seen recipes
using walnuts??
Bogdan>
Sauce for stockysshe in an-other maner (Ashmole MS 1439, Two 15th Cent.
Cookery Books, p109), has walnuts, garlic, pepper, bread and salt ground
together and thinned with fish broth: thick garlic walnut milk. It goes great
with more than fish, and very easy in a blender.
Rudd Rayfield
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:11:54 EDT
From: RuddR at aol.com
Subject: SC - 16th c. German Roux
David Friedman writes:
<A standard modern technique for making a sauce or gravy is to stir flour
into hot fat then add liquid, creating a suspension. So far as I know, this
technique is unknown in medieval cooking, where thickening is typically
done with bread crumbs, egg yolks, amidoun (wheat starch) or rice flour.
This raises the interesting question of when and where the technique
originated.
At Pennsic, I acquired a copy of the recent translation of the cookbook of
Sabrina Welserin, which is mid 16th c. German. Several recipes early in the
book (5, 9, 11, ...) seem to be describing the modern technique. Does
anyone know of an earlier example elsewhere?>
Although it is not a true roux, since there is no grease or butter mentioned,
there seems to be a "proto-roux" described in Ashmole MS 1439 (Two Fifteenth-
Century Cookery-Books, p. 110):
"Sauce gauncile
Take floure and cowe mylke, safroune wel y-grounde, garleke, and put in-to a
faire litel pot; and se(th)e it ouer (th)e fire, and serue it forthe."
A flour and milk base does seem to be unusual for a medieval sauce; this is
the only one I recall seeing.
Rudd Rayfield
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:05:09 -0800
From: Anne-Marie Rousseau <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: RE: SC - > Feeding Gunthar and Thyra
Hi all from Anne-Marie
For her Highness, there is are several outstanding creamy yet slightly tart
sauces in ther period and Elizabethan repetoire. Sauce Robert comes to mind
(butter, mustard, vinegar, capers and chives), as does la Varennes "white
sauce" (an egg yolk emulsion sauce with vinegar. Sound familiar?)
Then Ber sez...
> I also love beef Wellington and anything Anne-Marie cooks!
aw shucks :)... well, here's some recipes. The text is from my pbulications
"French Food in the Renaissance". All rights reserved, no publication with
permission, blah blah blah.
SAUCE ROBERT
This rich, creamy, slightly tangy sauce appears in many of the French
sources. There is some variation, for example le Cuisinier franois updates his
with capers, but all use verjuice and mustard and butter. What it's served on
seems to vary as well, with le Menagier a Paris putting it on poached sole
(M30), le Viandier de Taillevent on poached or baked John Dory (a North Atlantic
flat fish) (T115, T207), and le Cuisinier fran=E7ois on Poor John (another fish,
maybe a regional name for a John Dory?) (V80), goose (V33, p41), pork loin
(V56, p48), or wild boar (V39, p67). We've enjoyed this sauce on fish, pork,
and even veggies, though there's no documentation for the latter. Heck, it's
even good with bits of bread...
Poor John with a Sauce Robert. (V80)
You may put it with butter, a drop of verjuice, and some mustard, you may also
mixe with it some capers and chibols.
Barbe Robert [Sauce] (T207)
Take small onions fried in lard (or butter according to the day), verjuice,
vinegar, mustard, small spices and salt. Boil everything together. (A 1583
cookbook quoted by Pichon et al., p109)
(M30) "POLE" and SOLE are the same thing; and the "pole" are speckled on the
back. They should be scalded and gutted like plaice, washed and put in the pan,
with salt on them and water, then put on to cook, and when nearly done, add
parsley; then cook again in the same liquid, then eat with green sauce or with
butter with some of the hot cooking liquid, or in a sauce of old verjuice,
mustard and butter heated together.
Our version:
1 tsp. rinsed and minced capers
2 tsp. minced green onion, just the white part
2 tsp. fine ground prepared mustard
1/2 stick butter
1 tsp. cider vinegar or verjuice, if you have it
Mix all over heat till well blended. If it separates, whip with whisk till
reblended. Makes about 1/2 cup.
Serve on poached fish or roast pork or goose.
LA VARENNE'S WHITE SAUCE
The primary sources considered for this work show an interesting
development in the use of thickening agents. The middle ages saw the use of
bread crumbs and almonds, as well as the technique of reduction, or thickening
by protracted boiling. There was an occasional use of eggs, both hard boiled
(which thickened by particulates) and raw (thickening as the proteins in the
raw egg coagulated). The work Epulario seems to rely heavily on raw eggs rather
than the particulate thickener of the earlier works. Le Cuisinier franois has
an entire chapter discussing a number of preparations that one could use to
thicken sauces and dishes. It suggests making these ahead of time and keeping
them "against future need=92, stating that these are "useful for all, or instead
of eggs".
Several of these preparations are familiar, as they include the
ubiquitous almond (thickening using particulates), along with the old standby
of bread crumbs and egg yolks. but, Lo! le Cuisinier fran=E7ois specifies one
method ("A Thickning of flowre", Vp120) whereby flour is cooked with fat, and
onion, broth, mushrooms and vinegar are added and the preparation strained
before use. It's a roux! The basic ingredient of most modern French sauces is
this cooked emulsion of flour and fat.
Another example of the burgeoning art of French sauce making is la
Varenne’s white sauce. It's a real emulsion sauce; like hollandaise, bernaise
and mayonnaise. Recipes in le Cuisinier franois call for this sauce on leeks
(V38, p157), cauliflower (V16, p84), asparagus (V77, p113), artichoke bottoms
(V62, p108), as well as chicken pie (V4, p126), veal breast (V11, p126) and
lamb pie (V23, p113; V26, p134). It has a delicate yellow color and is a
creamy, slightly tart accompaniment to anything you fancy.
I found myself incapable of producing this sauce on the stovetop without
it curdling. With vigorous whisking, it was still presentable, but only if
eaten immediately, and would tend to curdle out again. The blender version of
this sauce, while not authentic in preparation method tastes the same and is
ideal for any situation where the sauce may not be served immediately, or the
temperature of your stove may not be gentle and steady enough (like, say, most
of the time?). This sauce can cool off and it won't curdle or go ropy. If it
starts to separate at all (we only noticed it after over an half hour), whiz it
for a second or so more in the blender.
Sparagas with White Sauce (V77 p113)
Choose the biggest, scrape the foot of them, and wash them, and seeth them in
water, salt them well, and let them not seeth too much; after they are sod,
draine them and make a sauce with very fresh butter, a little vinegar, salt,
nutmegg, and the yolk of an egg to thicken the sauce, and have a care that it
doe not curd or (turne) and serve them garnisht with what you will.
Our version:
In a small pan, melt 1/4 lb. butter till it's all bubbly hot.
To the blender, put 3 egg yolks
2 T. vinegar (cider or balsamic or white wine)
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. nutmeg
Cover, flick on and off at high speed. Remove cover, turn on high and gradually
add the hot butter. Blend on high for 4 seconds or so. Serve on anything that
doesn't move.
Makes about 1/2 c. sauce.
Optional modern variation:
1 shallot minced
2 T white wine vinegar
1 T water
1/4 t. fresh ground pepper
boil till dry in a small pan (i.e. the shallots have soaked up all the liquid),
and add the butter and melt as described above. Continue with rest of
instructions.
- --Anne-Marie
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:00:35 +1100
From: "Phillippa Venn-Brown" <p.vbrown at tsc.nsw.edu.au>
Subject: Re: SC - Isles Anniv Feast April 25, menu vers 1.1
> Sorrel Sauce (Take a 1000 eggs or more) - will have to taste test this one,
> see if it goes with anything served above.
This Sorrel sauce goes brilliantly with Roast Pork or suckling Pig which I
made it to accompany for Charles of the Park's "Fine Food Feast" posted to
the list last Sept/Oct.
I have it on authority from my friends who can eat seafood that it also
goes well with light flavoured fish.
Filippa Ginevra.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:19:39 EST
From: Balano1 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Fruit sauce/Rødegrød med Fløde
Hopefully, someone else can help document this but it is and has been a
standard throughout Scandanaivia and Western Europe for time unknown. I'm
told it's one of those that everyone's grandma can make and no one really has
a recipe for but I can attest to its pervasive appearance throughout Sweden
and Germany...this is a modern adaptation -
Rødegrød med Fløde
2 ten ounce packages frozen mixed berries, strawberries and rasberries
2 Tblsp sugar
2 Tblsp arrowroot powder
1/4 cup cold water
slivered almonds
1/2 cup light cream
Blend berries until pureed or rub through a fine sieve. Place puree in a 1
-
1 1/2 quart saucepan and stir in sugar. Bring to a boil stirring constantly.
Mix 2 Tbsp arrowroot powder and 2 Tblsp cold water to make a smooth paste.
Stir into sauce, let mixture thicken and remove from heat and cool. Chill
for at least 2 hours and serve with slivered almonds on top and cream on the
side.
- - Sister Mary Endoline
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:36:46 SAST-2
From: "Ian van Tets" <ivantets at botzoo.uct.ac.za>
Subject: SC - Sumac revisited (Italian sauce)
Back in the not too distant past there was a brief flurry of
discussion on a middle eastern flavouring known as Sumac. I recently
tripped across a description of a European sauce using Sumac and
thought that one or two of you might be interested.
Francesco Datini, a merchant from Prato near Venice in the
late 14th century, was rather fond of his food. He travelled
regularly and his correspondence (much of which has survived)
often covers important topics like "what I would like for dinner when
I come home". Among his favourite sauces was savore sanguino,
which was made by "pounding raisons, cinnamon, sandal and sumac
together and mixing them with wine and meat".
My source for this sauce is Iris Origo's "Merchant of Prato",
(the revised edition published in English by Penguin in 1963). Origo
cites the following as her source:
Biblioteca Marucelliana, Florence, Manoscritti, C. 226 (a
miscellaneous codex of the 15th century), p. 128
Jan van Seist
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:58:01 -0500
From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)
Subject: Re: SC - Blue Sauce - Maybe chestnuts?
Hello! I don't recall if anyone mentioned it, but there is a recipe in
Epulario (p. 32) for 'skie color sauce in summer' which calls for
mulberries: "Take wild mulberies which grow in the Hedges, and a few
stamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper all this with Veriuice and
straine it."
Cindy
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 00:12:23 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauces for Roast Pork
Bronwynmgn at aol.com wrote:
> I am the head cook for our shire's event in May. The main dish for the feast
> will be spit-roasted pork (ie we are having someone come in to do a pig
> roast). I would like suggestions for 2-3 sauces that could be spooned onto
> the meat after the diner gets it on his plate. The remainder of the feast is
> primarily 14th century English and French, and I would prefer recipes that fit
> into those parameters.
Taillevent recommends roast pork be eaten with verjuice, and says some
people put garlic, onions, wine, and verjuice in the pan with the
drippings from the meat and make a sauce with that. Kind of like sauce
Robert without the mustard.
He says of stuffed roast suckling pig that while some lazy persons eat
it with Cameline Sauce, it should be served with a hot Yellow Pepper
Sauce. Of that, Poivre Jaunet, he says to grind ginger, long pepper,
saffron -- and some people add in cloves with a little verjuice -- and
toast; infuse this in vinegar (or verjuice) and boil it when you are
about to serve your meat.
Something Taillevent doesn't recommend for roast pork, but which happens
to be excellent with it, is Garlic Jance, made from ginger, garlic and
almonds, ground, infused in verjuice and boiled until thickened. He says
some people put white wine in it too. It's a little like a modern Greek Skordalia...
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:13:38 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: SC - Opusculum de saporibus (was: Welcome ...) / sauce for lamprey
<< Oh, and then there's Maino de Maineri's early 14th century Opusculum
de Saporibus, roughly, Little Book of Condiments, a sauce book in Latin,
which appears to have been plagiarized by Arnald de Villanova in his
much-more-well-known Regimen Sanitatis. >>
As you all know, Arnald of Villanova died 1307 or 1309 in a shipwreck.
Magninus died about 1364. The first texts of Magninus mentioned by
THorndike are from the 1320ies, when Arnald was long dead.
If I understand correctly the incipit of the Regimen sanitatis, quoted
by THorndike, it was the other way round:
"Incipit liber de regimine sanitatis Arnaldi de villa nova quem Magninus
mediolanensis sibi appropriavit addendo et immutando nonnulla" (p. 184
note 8, continued from p. 183).
Roughly: Here begins the book about the healthy way of life by Arnald of
Villanova, that Magninus of Milano 'made his own', whereby he added and
changed quite a bit.
On the other hand, Terence Scully in his "The _opusculum de saporibus of
Magninus Mediolanensis_" (Medium Aevum 54, 1985, 178-207) holds, that
the Regimen is the work of Magninus. In this case, the Regimen could
have been incorporated into the collected works of Arnald by the
_editors_ of Arnalds collected works.
Here is a sample recipe from the opusculum for the translators on this
list:
"Pro lampridis magnis assatis et murenis recipe zinziberi albi
gariofilorum gallange granorum paradisi ana 3. m. panis assi infusi in
aceto medium. Distemperetur cum pinguedine piscis et agresta et bulliat.
Vel potest fieri gellatina superius scripta. Et sicut dictum est de
lampreda similiter intelligatur de murena." (p. 188)
The latin text of the _opusculum de saporibus_ is at:
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909/sapor.htm
or via
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909 (choose "Alte Kochbuecher")
Thomas
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 05:42:14 +1000
From: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks" <meliora at macquarie.matra.com.au>
Subject: SC - Sauce recipe for Lamb Shanks
Artemis,
> Yet another quick question. I'm currently looking for a good
> (and preferably simple) sauce recipe to go over some roasted
> lamb shanks I'm serving at a feast. Something from around
> 1200-1350 would be ideal, but with a month to go I'm open to
> all suggestions.
A new variation that Drake & I have been using is as follows from Redon's
Medieval Kitchen. The recipe is for Chicken but the sauce is really yummy
with lamb!!!
Roast Chicken. To prepare roast chicken, you must roast it; and when it is
cooked, take orange juice or verjuice with rosewater, sugar and cinnamon and
place the chicken on a platter; and pour this mixture over it and send it to
table. (Maestro Martino, Libro de Atre Coquinaria, no 127)
Redon's redaction of the sauce is:
juice of 3 bitter oranges (sevilles) OR 10 tablespoons verjuice plus 1
tablespoon rose water
1/2 tea sugar
1 pinch ground cinnamon
salt to taste
Drake's Variation: Instead of pouring this over the meat, we heat it
separately and thicken with cornflour. Presto - Gravy for Coeliac (allergic
to gluten) people.
Meliora - from Polit.
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:10:01 EDT
From: Elysant at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - white sals
LrdRas at aol.com writes:
> margali at 99main.com writes:
> << Any chance of getting Cariadoc's white sals recipe we made at Pensic?
> margali
> The white sals recipe 'we' made at Pennsic was my recipe. The translation of
> the recipe was in Cariadoc's Collection of Medieval and Renaissance
> Cookbooks, Vol. II, The Book of the Beloved; 'White Sals'.
Hello Margali,
Here's the recipe for White Sals for you. Credit for redacting this recipe
actually goes not only to Lord Ras, but also to myself, and to Puck. :-)
Elysant
-----Original (translation)-White sals. Walnut meats, garlic, pepper, cinnamon, white mustard, Tahini andlemon juice.Redaction-White sals
(copyright c 1999 Ras, Elysant, Puck)
1 cp. Walnuts
2 cloves Garlic
1/8 tsp. Black pepper, ground
1/2 tsp. True cinnamon, ground
3/4 tsp. prepared mustard (see notes below)
2 Tblsp Tahini
Lemon juice, as needed
In a food processor combine walnuts and garlic until they form a smooth
paste. Put walnut mixture in a bowl. Add pepper. cinnamon, mustard and
Tahini. Mix thoroughly adding lemon juice by the teaspoonful until a smooth
very thick mixture is achieved.
NOTE: There is a description of mustard as prepared in the medieval middle
east in another section of Caraidoc's Collection. We used a modern mustard
that most fit this description. Any country-style mustard would work.
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 09:40:15 EDT
From: WOLFMOMSCA at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Preserves & Sauces - recipes wanted
This one freezes well, and besides being a great sauce for roasted meats,
also makes a great condiment for burgers on the barby.
From The English Hous-wife, Gervase Markham, 1615
Sauce for a Roast Capon
To make an excellent sause for a rost Capon, you shall take Onions, and
having sliced and peeled them, boyle them in fair water with Pepper, Salt,
and a few bread crummes: then put unto it a spoonfull or two of claret Wine,
the juyce of an Orenge, and three or four slices of Lemmon peel: all these
shred together, and so pour it upon the Capon being broke up.
2 cups minced onion (save yourself the last step of "shredding")
1/4 tsp. minced lemon peel
2 Tbsp. dry red or white wine (Your choice, I've used both with equal success)
1 1/2 cups OJ (fresh-squeezed is best, but country-style with the pulp works
fine)
2 Tbsp bread crumbs
Salt
Pepper (both to taste)
Put the onions in a saucepan with enough water to cover, add salt & pepper as
you like it. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Add the
rest of the ingredients, bring back to a boil, and simmer until it thickens
up a bit. Serve it forth, as the saying goes.
This was served at an Elizabethan feast I did this past February. I had
leftovers, so I chucked it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the freezer. I
thawed it out in August for a roast beef dinner, and it was just fine. Be
aware that freezing this will cause the onions to somehow become more
onion-y. I don't know why (that's the science of cookery). But it worked
quite well. It also worked well as an ingredient in everyday meatloaf. Came
out quite yummy.
Wolfmother
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 16:47:30 -0500
From: "Alderton, Philippa" <phlip at morganco.net>
Subject: SC - Apicius Venison Sauce Recipes
I just typed this in for a friend, and I thought some of you who don't have
Apicius yet might like a copy.
Flowers and Rosenbaum , Book VIII, section II
1. Ius in Cervum- Sauce for Venison
Crush pepper, lovage, caraway, origan, celery-seed, asafoetida root,
fennel-seed; pound well, pour on liquamen, wine, passum, a little oil. When
it comes to the boil thicken with cornflour. Moisten the cooked stag inside
and out, and serve.
2. In Platoneum- For Fallow Deer
and for every kind of venison you can use the same sauce.
3. Aliter- Venison, Another Method
Boil the stag, and roast lightly. Pound pepper, lovage, caraway,
celery-seed; add honey, vinegar, liquamen, and oil. When hot thicken with
cornflour and pour over the meat.
4. Ius in Cervo- Sauce for Venison.
Pepper, lovage, Welsh onion, origan, pine-kernals, Jerico dates, honey,
liquamen, mustard, vinegar, oil.
5. Cervinae Conditura- Sauce for Venison
Pepper, cumin, herbs, parsley, onion, rue, honey, liquamen, mint, passum,
caroenum, and a little oil. Thicken with cornflour when boiling.
6. Iura Ferventia in Cervo- Hot Sauce for Venison
Pepper, lovage, parsley, cumin, toasted pine kernals or almonds. Add honey,
vinegar, wine, a little oil, liquamen, and stir.
7. Embamma in Cervinum Assam- Sauce for Roast Venison
Pepper, spikenard, bay-leaf, celery seed, dried onion, fresh rue, honey,
vinegar, Liquamen: add Jerico dates, raisins, and oil.
8. Aliter in Cervum Assum Iura Ferventia- Hot Sauce for Roast Venison,
Another Method
Pepper, lovage, parsley, soaked <dried> damsons, wine, honey, vinegar,
liquamen, a little oil. Stir with a bunch of leek and savory.
Phlip
Philippa Farrour
Caer Frig
Southeastern Ohio
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:40:08 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Recipe: Mirrauste de Manzanas
Someone asked me for this recipe, so I thought I might as well post it to
the list.
Source: Ruperto de Nola, _Libro de Guisados_ (Spanish, 1529)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
MIRRAUSTE DE MANZANAS -- Mirrauste of Apples
You must take the sweetest apples and peel off their skin, and quarter
them. And remove the core and the pips, and then set a pot to boil with
as much water as you know will be necessary. And when the water
boils, cast in the apples and then take well toasted almonds and grind
them well in a mortar. Dissolve them with the broth from the apples,
and strain them through a woollen cloth with crustless bread soaked in
said apple broth. And strain everything quite thick, and after straining it
cast in a good deal of ground cinnamon and sugar. And then send it to
the fire to cook and when the sauce boils remove it from the fire. And
cast in the apples which remain, well drained of the broth, but see that
the apples should not be scalded, so that you can prepare dishes of
them, and when they are made cast sugar and cinnamon on top.
Notes:
This is a Lenten version of Mirrauste. The meat day version has no
apples. It is a sauce made with toasted almonds, broth, bread crumb,
sugar and cinnamon, and is served with roast birds.
De Nola always specifies when almonds are to be blanched, so I
assume that these almonds are not.
I would be inclined to cook the apples in just enough water to cover, so
as to make a more intensely flavorful broth.
The direction not to scald the apples probably means not to overcook
them, so that they will retain their shape and not turn into applemoyle.
Brighid, who has the stomach flu right now, and is not going to
redacting anything more interesting than oatmeal for a while...
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 14:49:35 -0500
From: Christine A Seelye-King <mermayde at juno.com>
Subject: SC - Digby's Horseradish Mustard
> Digby has a Ginger horseradish mustard sauce: can someone get that
> for me?
>
> Caointiarn
Here you go -
From Sir Kenelme Digby's Closet Opened
"To Make Mustard
<snip - see mustard-msg>
And here is another plain horseradish sauce.
"Sauce of Horse Radish
Take Roots of Horse-radish scraped clean, and lay them to soak in
fair-water for an hour. Then rasp them upon a Grater, and you shall have
them all in a tender spungy Pap. Put Vinegar to it, and a very little
Sugar, not so much as to be tasted, but to quicken (by contrariety) the
taste of the other."
Christianna
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:00:52 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Pomegranate sauce
Tonight, I made a first try at the pomegranate sauce I mentioned. Here's an
interim report.
Source: Ruperto de Nola, _Libro de Guisados_ (Spanish, 1529)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
SALSERON PARA PERDICES O GALLINAS ASADAS - Sauce for roasted
partridges or hens
Grind almonds which are clean, peeled and blanched; and dissolve them with
juice of sour pomegranates; then cast sugar in the mortar, pulverized, and
cinnamon and ginger because its color and flavor should tend almost towards
cinnamon. There is no need to strain it through a hair sieve.
Notes:
I took 1/4 cup pomegranate concentrate and diluted it with 3/4 water to make 1
cup of juice. I ran it through the blender with 1 ounce of ground almonds.
Although the recipe says that straining is not necessary, I dislike the feel of
almond grit in dishes. I strained the almond "milk" though my new toy -- a
strainer with a very fine metal mesh that I got at a Chinese grocery. I
sweetened the sauce with 4 tsp. sugar, and spiced it with 3/8 tsp. each of
ground ginger and cinnamon. Simmered on a medium-low heat until
thickened. Served it over grilled chicken breast. My lord husband took one
taste of the sauce and said, "Duck". And, indeed, I think it would go well with
duck. It has a wonderful dark-chocolate color. Next time, I think I will try just a wee bit more sweetening, a little less ginger, and a little more cinnamon. I think this one is a winner.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 15:23:38 +0200
From: Thomas Gloning <gloning at Mailer.Uni-Marburg.DE>
Subject: SC - Catalan Cooking? (+ recipes)
<< what areas in modern Europe do these Catalan and Neapolitan regions
correspond to? >>
The catalan recipes in question are 14th/15th century. Catalan was
spoken in (part of?) the kingdom of Aragon (North East of today's Spain;
around Barcelona); "Neap0litan" refers to the region around Naples,
Southern Italy. If I am not mistaken, Naples was a huge kingdom then,
that formed around one third of today's Italy (southern part). In the
mid of the 15th century, the Aragonese were sovereigns of Naples and had
a court there.
Here is a recipe for a lemon sauce in four versions (three from Scully,
one from Bostrˆm):
I. English translation of Cuoco Neap. #56 (Scully p. 184)
56. Lemon Sauce for Chickens or Capons.
Get one or more chickens, capons or cockerels that have been cooked a
little in water; take them out of the water and mount them on a spit;
then get peeled, well ground almonds and temper them with the bouillon
of the chickens; then get lemon juice and mix it all together with good
spices; and put it into a saucepan to cook a little; then pour it over
the roast with a little fat; serve it very hot.
II. Original Italian Version of Cuoco Neap. #56 (Scully p. 55)
56. Limonata a galine ho ha caponi
Piglia galine ho galina, caponi ho capono ho pullastri, che siano cotti
uno pocho in aqua; poi cazali dal aqua he metali in spito; poi piglia
amandole mondate ben piste he stemprale cum lo sabrero de le galine; poi
piglia sugo de limoni he miscola cum bone specie, ogni cosa insieme, he
mette in una pignatella a cocere uno pochetto; he da poi getta de sopra
de questo rosto, he cum pocho de grasso, he caldo caldo manda in tavola.
III. Catalan version of the recipe: from the 'De apereylar bÈ de menyar'
(Scully p. 250)
31. Si vols fer limonia.
Prin los pols o galines ho capons, qui sien primerament cuyts .i. poc en
aygue. Puys trets-los de l'aygua, e mit-les en [ms: e] ast.
E ayes amenles perades, e destempre-les ab lo sebrer dels capons. E
d'altre part prin del suc dels limons, e met-ne ab la [ms: le] polvora
de les species, e puys passa-o [ms partly unreadable] tot sobre les
brases, e estia tro que sia be espÈs, empero primerament hi deu hom
metre del lart del porc en la caÁola. E sie donat per tayladors.
A .xx. persones .iiii. llibres d'amenles.
IV. Lean version: lemon sauce to fish
This version is mentioned by Scully in his comentary to be found in
Anonimo Meridionale A #66. Here it is from Bostrˆm's edition:
66 LXIIII
Affare brudo de pescie marini [ms: martini] grandi lava lo pescie et
talglialo et soffrigelo con olio non multo. Tolli agmandole non mondate,
pistale et colale, et la colatura micti colli dicti pisci abbollire.
Mictice donde spetie senza saffarana, nanti che tu lo tolli dal foco, et
mictice suco de citrangoli o de lumone. Quisto civo si fi dicto limonia
de pescie. (Bostrˆm p. 17)
Thomas
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:10:18 -0400
From: margali <margali at 99main.com>
Subject: SC - Neat website
http://www.ruralwales.org.uk/powysfayre/apicius/prodrnge.htm
They claim to use period recipes to produce their sauces...
margali
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:54:00 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Emulsified sauces (was Re: SC - Adamantius in Error)
And it came to pass on 17 Sep 00,, that Philip & Susan Troy wrote:
[snipped lengthy discussion of the composition of Miracle Whip]
> Regarding thick oil-based, emulsified sauces, it's possible they were
> known in the Hellenic world. It's also possible that some of the Apician
> sauces, that call for various ingredients to be pounded together, with oil
> added, are intended to be emulsified sauces. Examples of thickish sauces
> and purees that have oil beaten in via a mortar and pestle include pesto,
> brandade, skordalia, aioli, rouille, and many others, and while not all of
> these are very old, some of them could be, in one form or another. My
> guess is that Smith has found a reference to a sauce of pounded
> ingredients which contains oil, and has interpreted it as an emulsified
> sauce, rightly or wrongly. I remember seeing a reference to what appears
> to be an emulsified garlic sauce in, IIRC, either Libro del Coch, or the
> Libro Sent Sovi. This would appear to be something similar to aioli and
> skordalia, whch in turn have some similarity to mayonnaise. And, if they
> have almost no egg yolks, to MW as well. ; )
> Adamantius
As it happens, I was looking at _Sent Sovi_ last night. (The _Libre de
Sent Sovi_ is a 15th century Catalan cookbook, which is a precursor of
the Spanish text I've been working with.) I was working on footnoting
"almodrote", which is a garlic-cheese sauce. Here's the relevant part
It's the sauce part of a more complex recipe):
and then grate good cheese of Aragon that is fine, and take two whole heads
of garlic roasted between the coals and then peel them very well and cleanly
and grind them in a mortar, and then put the cheese in the mortar, and resume
grinding it all together, and while you are grinding them cast a good spoonful
of butter into the mortar, with some egg yolks, and grind it all together, and
when it is all well ground, dissolve it with good mutton broth that is half
cooled, because if it were very hot it would consume the cheese....
I have cooked this, and it is very thick and garlicy and tasty.
There are a couple of recipes in _Sent Sovi_ for almedroc, the Catalan
equivalent. Some versions have oil and/or eggs. In the Florilegium,
there are a few messages from Stephen Bloch, who translated a couple
of the recipes and discussed them.
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/sauces-msg.html
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 15:49:02 GMT
From: "Vincent Cuenca" <bootkiller at hotmail.com>
Subject: SC - Re: historical liver
As far as I can tell, the Spanish corpus
>uses the livers of most edible creatures. There are a lot of recipes
>for roast fowl which use the bird's liver in a sauce.
The technique still survives in modern Catalan cooking. Liver and nuts are
ground into a paste, thinned with broth or wine or water, and then added to
the sauce both as a thickener and a flavoring agent. The technique is
called "picada", and can also include breadcrumbs, herbs and spices, peppers
and chocolate, depending on the sauce. De Nola uses the technique over and
over again, but does not give it a name.
Vicente
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:36:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jenne Heise <jenne at mail.browser.net>
Subject: Re: SC - OOP - Black Food
> I was wondering if anyone can suggest some other black foods and
> beverages. Several key guild members are vegetarians, so no meat or
> gelatin, although eggs and dairy are ok. And i really really really
> dislike licorice, so none of that (heck, i never even ate one of
> those "black wafers", the frosting smelled so unpleasant to me)
The Black pepper sauce given in _The Medieval Kitchen_ is delicious...:
"Black poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and pepper, moisten with
vinegar and verjuice, and boil (VT BN Scul 227)"
- --
Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 00:09:28 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: SC - Recipe: cider sauce
For many of us, apple cider is widely available right now, so here's
a period recipe that uses it. It has the texture of honey, and a
wonderful sweet-tart flavor. Note to non-U.S. cooks: sweet apple
cider is a non-alcoholic unfiltered apple juice.
I do not know what this sauce was intended to be served with. It
can be spread like jelly on bread. I suspect it would go well with
pork or duck. I also suspect that it would be a good candidate for
canning, though I have no practical experience in that area.
Refrigerated, it keeps for at least a month, probably longer.
CIDER SAUCE
Source: Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599
Translation & Redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Para hacer salsa de zumo de manzanas
To make sauce of the juice of apples
Take the apples, and without peeling them, grate them and extract the
juice from them, as we said of the quinces; adding a little vinegar, and
white wine, and take the clearest part, and for each pound of juice, put
eight ounces of sugar, and cook it like the juice of the quinces, with the
same spices.
And two related recipes:
Para hazer salsa real
To make royal sauce
Take three pounds of fine sugar, and two quarts of white vinegar without
roses, and a quart of white wine, a little whole cinnamon, and make it boil
all together in a new glazed pot until it is cooked, and have the pot
covered, so that it cannot exhale, and to know if it is cooked, the sign will
be that, in falling, a drop will congeal, so that touching it with your hand
does not make it come apart. Serve it cold, and take care that it does not
burn. When you cook it, you can add nutmeg, and cloves, and in place
of the pot, you can make it in a casserole.
Para hazer salsa de zumo de membrillos
To make sauce of the juice of quinces
Grate the quince lightly with a grater, without peeling it, and put it inside
the woolen cloth, and press it until it has yielded all the juice, and put it
in a flask until the thickest part goes to the bottom, and take the clearest
part, and put it in a glazed casserole or pot, and for each pound of juice
put eight ounces of sugar, and two ounces of vinegar, and one ounce of
wine of San Martin, and cook it in the manner that the Royal Sauce is
cooked, as described above, with a quarter [ounce] of whole cinnamon,
half a nutmeg, and four cloves.
Apple Cider Sauce
2 cups sweet apple cider
8 ounces sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour into a
clean glass jar. Refrigerate. Makes about 1 cup.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 18:50:23 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: SC - Sauces
I went to a baronial potluck today. As a contribution, I brought a
loaf of bread, sliced roast beef, and three sauces. One was the
Cider Sauce from Granado which I posted recently. Another was
the horseradish sauce from Nola, and the third was a garlic sauce
from Granado. They were all well received, though the Cider Sauce
was probably the most popular.
I've posted the translation for the Horseradish sauce before, but
here's the redaction:
* Exported from MasterCook *
Horseradish-Honey Sauce
Recipe By : de Nola #157
Serving Size : 20 Preparation Time :0:05
Categories : Sauces Spanish
Vegan Vegetarian
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
- -------- ------------ --------------------------------
1 slice italian bread -- toasted lightly
4 oz horseradish -- finely grated
1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Peel and finely grate the horseradish root. Place in the container
of a blender or food processor. Soak the toasted bread in the
vinegar. Add to the horseradish. Blend a moment until mixed.
Add the remaining ingredients, adjusting as necessary for taste.
Add just enough water to make a smooth sauce that is not too thin.
CAUTION: avoid breathing in the fumes from the sauce.
Just before serving, heat the sauce on low heat until warm. Do not
boil.
For a hotter sauce, wait 3 minutes before adding the bread and
vinegar to the horseradish. For a less fiery sauce, add the vinegar
promptly after grating the horseradish.
If fresh horseradish root is unavailable, take a 6-oz jar of prepared
horseradish. Empty the contents into a mesh sieve, and press
lightly with a spoon to drain off the excess liquid. Reduce added
vinegar to 1 tablespoon. Proceed as above. However, this method
produces a much milder sauce.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The garlic sauce from Granado was milder than I expected, even
though I used 2 large cloves of garlic. Next time I think I will
increase the garlic to 3 or 4 cloves.
The recipe is:
PARA HAZER AJADA CON NUEZES TIERNAS, Y ALMENDRAS
To Make Garlic Sauce with Tender Walnuts and Almonds
Take six ounces of tender peeled walnuts, and four [ounces] of
fresh sweet almonds, and six cloves of boiled garlic, or one and a
half raw, and grind them in the morter, with four ounces of a
crustless piece of bread soaked in broth of mutton, or of fish which
is not very salty, and once they are ground put in a quarter [ounce]
of ground ginger. If the sauce is well ground, it is not necessary to
strain it, but just thin it with one of the abovementioned broths, and
if the walnuts were dried, let them be soaked in cold water, until
they soften again, and can be cleaned. With the abovementioned
sauce, you can grind a little bit of turnip, or of crisp-leaved cabbage
well-cooked in good meat broth, if it is a day for it.
Redaction:
* Exported from MasterCook *
Garlic Sauce with Walnuts and Almonds
Recipe By : Diego Granado
Serving Size : 24 Preparation Time :0:00
Categories : Sauces Spanish
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
- -------- ------------ --------------------------------
6 ounces walnuts
4 ounces almonds, blanched
4 ounces bread -- crusts removed
1/4 ounce ground ginger
1 1/2 cloves garlic cloves
1-2 cups lamb broth
Soak the nuts in cold water overnight, or at least several hours.
Drain, and grind finely in a food processor. Add the bread soaked
in broth, ginger and garlic. Blend until smooth. If necessary, add
more broth and/or water to adjust the consistency of the sauce.
Makes about 3 cups.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 15:20:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Jenne Heise <jenne at mail.browser.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauces
> >Any other sauces that anyone would recommend with pork? We'll be
> >roasting it with garlic and not much else - it was scrumptious last
> >year under a different Kitchen Steward, who's now out of the country.
When we ran the taste-test for the sauces we used in the dayboard I just
did, we found that all the sauces were good with pork. However, the ones
we liked best with it were the green sauce, the Tournai cameline, the
black (pepper) sauce, and the black grape sauce (best of all! it has that
sweet/sour thing going).
Recipes and redactions follow.
- -------
Black Sauce: (3x)
Original: "Black poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and pepper,
moisten with vinegar and verjuice, and boil (The Viander of
Taillevent,edited by Scully, 227, translated in The Medieval Kitchen,
Redon et al.)"
6 slices dark bread, burnt (I used rye with caraway)
Equal parts cider vinegar and cider (1c.?) approximation for verjuice
1 c. wine vinegar
6 Tb pepper
4 1/2 Tbsp powdered ginger
3 tsp salt
Crush up the charred bread into bread crumbs, grind up the pepper (use
fresh-ground) and mise with powdered ginger. Mix this with the vinegars
and add salt. Bring to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from heat. Keeps at
least a week refrigerated.
- -----
Black-Grape Sauce
Original: "Grape Sauce: Take good black grapes and crush them very well
into a bowl, breaking in a bread or half a bread depending on the
quantity you wish to prepare; and add a little good verguice or vinegar so
that the grapes will not be so sweet. And boil these things over the fire
for half an hour, adding cinnamon and ginger and other good spices.
(Maestro Martino, Libro de arte coquinaria, 155, translated in The
Medieval Kitchen, Redon et al.)"
3/4 to 1 lb black grapes
1 slice bread (I used rye with caraway)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tsp ground cassia
1/2 tsp real cinnamon
1 blade mace
5-10 pods cardamom
1 tsp ground ginger
long pepper to taste
trace of nutmeg
Buy seedless black grapes. Strip them from the bunches and wash them. In a
food processor, process until you get a thick mash. Pour into a pot, add
breadcrumbs and vinegar (depending on how sweet the grapes are, you may
need more or less vinegar). Bring to a boil and add spices. Boil for half
an hour: it will be thick and dark purple/magenta. Cool and serve. Keeps
for at least a week refrigerated.
- ----
Tournai-style Cameline sauce (3x)
<snip - See the file camilne-sauce-msg. - Stefan>
- ---
Tournai-style Cameline sauce (3x)
<snip - See the file camilne-sauce-msg. - Stefan>
--
Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 18:48:33 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: Re: SC - Cider Sauce, Arte de Cozina
And it came to pass on 30 Nov 00, , that lilinah at earthlink.net wrote:
> I plan to serve Robin's Cider Sauce with Roast Pork Loin - about 35
> lb for 80 people - in the Second Course.
Warning, Will Robinson! Danger! Danger! I hope you're not
planning to make one huge batch of sauce. The cider sauce really
has to be made in small batches. You can double the recipe (and
it will take about 1-3/4 hours to boil down) but anything more than
that, and you're likely to have problems. The good news is that it
keeps for weeks in the refrigerator, so you can do a little each day.
> I've more-or-less multiplied up the recipe that Robin sent to the
> list, but it sure seems like a lot of sugar and whole nutmegs. Did
> i do my math wrong?
I don't think so. Keep in mind that this is basically a cider jelly.
You're boiling it down to about half volume, and the sugar provides
the thickening, along with the pectin in the cider. The vinegar
keeps it from being *too* sweet. The whole nutmegs are removed
after cooking, and do not flavor the sauce as much as ground
nutmeg would.
> Apple Cider Sauce (Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599)
> As redacted by Lady Brighid ni Chiarainmka/Robin Carroll-Mann
> To make 1 cup:
> 2 cups sweet apple cider
> 1/2 lb. sugar
> 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
> 1/8 cup white wine
> 1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
> 1/2 whole nutmeg
> 4 whole cloves
>
> Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
> about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
> thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour
> into a clean glass jar. Refrigerate.
>
> My version multiplied by 40, intended to make about 40 cups/10 quarts/2.5 gal.
> 5 gallons sweet apple cider
> 20 lb. sugar (1 lb per 4 people?!?)
> 2-1/2 quarts white wine vinegar
> 5 cups white wine
> 1 lb cinnamon sticks
> 20 whole nutmegs
> 160 whole cloves
>
> This just doesn't look right to me... Help!
Ummm... are you really planning to make 1/2 cup per person? It's
strongly-flavored stuff, and a little goes a long way. I wouldn't serve
more than 1/4 cup per person.
> Thanks - the Feast is on Sunday December 10,
If you have not already planned to do this: start now. Make small
batches, perhaps a double batch on each burner, or farm some of
them out to co-cooks. Once cooled, they can be dumped into a
larger container in the fridge. Do *not* try to do a giant batch; it will
take forever or a little longer. If any of the sauce starts to
crystalize and become grainy, you can treat it like honey -- nuke it,
or place a jar in a pot of hot water until it clears up.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 22:52:08 -0800
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: SC - Cider Sauce Experiments
Robin Carroll-Mann shared her recipe for Spanish cider sauce with the list:
CIDER SAUCE
Source: Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599
Translation & Redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Apple Cider Sauce
2 cups sweet apple cider
8 ounces sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour
into a clean glass jar. Refrigerate. Makes about 1 cup.
=====================
What i did:
1.) Being an American without a kitchen scale, i consulted "The Joy
of Cooking" which said that 1 pound of sugar equaled approx. 2 cups.
2.) Although apples grow here in northern California, i do not live
in a fresh cider area. Yes, they sell it around here, and i found it
for around 8 dollars a gallon. To make enough sauce i needed 2.5
gallons and $20 dollars was more than i wanted to spend for the
sauce, considering i had already purchased about $60 spices. So i am
cheating. I bought a frozen natural unsweetened apple juice
concentrate, which makes a gallon for under $4.
3.) Where i was shopping the white wine vinegar was only in little
bottles, so it was mongo expensive, but there was a big bottle of
champagne vinegar that was reasonable, so i got that. More suitable
than red wine vinegar, i reasoned.
4.) As for wine, i am an ignoramus. But i found a 2 liter bottle of
white Chardonnay for $8, so what the hey... I tasted it before using
it and it was definitely drinkable, not bad even.
EXPERIMENT ONE
enough concentrate to make one quart of juice
1/2 as much water as needed to reconstitute
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup champagne vinegar
1/4 cup white wine
1 oz cassia sticks - yes i know they taste different than true
cinnamon, which is much more delicious
1 whole nutmeg, cut in quarters
8 whole cloves
I put them all together in a pan, brought to a simmer and cooked
until reduced by half. I think i was cooking on too low a fire, so
for the last, uh, i don't know, maybe 1/2 hour or 45 min, i brought
the heat up to a faster simmer, but not a rolling boil. I don't own a
candy thermometer, so i gauged by feel - the liquid was definitely
thickened, and i measured it until it was reduced to 2 cups. This
took about two hours. I didn't stand over the pot, just went in and
stirred every 15 min. or so until near the end, when i checked every
five minutes or so, then stood there for the last 10 minutes of
cooking. I removed the spices, but did not strain, as the sauce is
clear. Then I cooled it, 2 cups worth.
It is the color of cherry amber. It never jelled, not even in the
fridge - probably pectin was removed in the commercial processing -
but it is a VERY thick syrup. The flavor is interesting - the wine
and wine vinegar help cut the sweetness of the juice and sugar and
add a nice fruity tang. There is a clear flavor of spices, although
i'd like them stronger, and of apple.
EXPERIMENT TWO
Same ingredients as Experiment One, except i fully reconstituted the
juice and kept the fire higher during the process. It took only a
little longer, because i had the heat higher. But even though i
reduced it by half, it was more liquid than the first batch. It is a
moderately thick syrup. It seems sweeter than the first, although
with a slightly stronger spice flavor.
Although this is probably not what the Spanish made and may not be as
delicious as sauce made from fresh cider, it is very good. I think it
will be a success.
Well, just 4 more potsful to go. This time i'll have two pots going
at once in two sessions. Gee, this is easy :-)
Thanks Robin/ Lady Brighid
Anahita
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 12:10:55 -0600
From: "Michael F. Gunter" <michael.gunter at fnc.fujitsu.com>
Subject: non-member submission - Re: SC - Cider Sauce Experiments
I also have experimented with the Cider sauce for a Birthday party for
the Baron of Bryn Madoc (it wasn't
really his birthday, but it is his perogative to have a party whenever
he wishes <g>). IT came out quite nicely,
and I'll offer my comments along with these. I made a double batch that
came out to two liquid US cups (16 fl. ounces).
My recipe:
4 cups sweet apple cider (plain store brand stuff . . . Thrifty Maid)
1 lb. sugar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup dry hard cider (Woodchuck Granny Smith Apple)
1 ounce cinnamon sticks (zeylanicum)
1 whole nutmeg (cut into 8 pieces)
8 whole cloves
1) I used a kitchen scale for everything, so cannot speak to volumes
except that 2 cups to the pound (US measure) is pretty much standard.
2) I thought that apple cider vinegar would be even more appropriate,
though I just have used white wine vinegar if that was all that was on hand.
3) For wine, I figured a white would be better, but I didn't have one
in house. SO, I used the hard cider. I believe it was Woddchuck Granny Smith Apple. It was a little fizzy, so I let it go flat in the heated pan before use. That way I got the full measure. It changed the original recipe, but came out quite nice. For a white grape based wine, I suggest one not bone dry that has some fruity character left to it.
4) I used zeylanicum sticks for cinnamon. they tended to splinter in
the boil, but they were all strained out at the end anyway. The character was noticeable in the sauce . . .bright, sweet and spicy rather than the
darker, earthier taste the cassia would tend to add.
5) My boil was as high as I could get and not get a boilover. I was
impatient, and also wanted to add a little
caramalization in the boil. I also did not use a candy thermometer as
that would not have been available to them.
It took about 70 minutes to get the half volume. If I had done a single
batch in the same pan, I figure the time
would have cut down a bit. A saucier would be even better with the
shallower and wider configuration . . . more
surface area to evaporate. More stirring toward the end so it didn't
stick and scorch. I just went until it looked to be half and was syrupy
on my wooden spoon.
6) I strained it through a cheesecloth to get the spices out. Lost
some of the sauce to the cloth, but not so much
that it was worth crying over. It did give me a less 'chunky' product.
Nutmeg was chopped, cinnamon broke up and the cloves did a little as
well. I got the same cherry amber color reported by others. It did not
jell, but certainly was thickened and syrupy. Had I used a fresh
pressed cider, I suspect a little more thickening from pectins. Though
maybe not whole lot more. I plan to try that soon . . . North GA has
great ciders available. I'll also play with the sugar/vinegar
proportions to see what they do to the consistency and flavor.
The sweet/sour flavor was nicely punctuated by the bright spicing of the
zeylanicum and other spices. Breaking up the nutmeg, I believe made a
big difference. Grating it all down may have been too much, so I'm
going to stick with the broken up. The apple flavor I got was very
clearly there. Maybe the cder instead of wine helped that a little.
The leftovers are aging nicely in the fridge. I plan to use it to
marinade a pork loin roast overnight and then slow grill this weekend .
. . lucious visions are jumping in my taste buds.
<<<<<<<<<I should point out that I don't know if my redaction with fresh
cider
is exactly what the Spanish made. Granado says to start out with
whole unpeeled apples and crush them. Then let the juice stand
and take the clearer part. I don't know if apples treated this way
would result in something closer to cider or to filtered apple juice --
perhaps something in the middle.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Modern and even historical Cider is made by pulping the apple in a sort
of monster toothed roller item and then piling it into a cheesecloth (the pulp is called cheese!) and pressed for cider. We press ours in house by
freezing the apples whole until rock solid, thaw them out and press with
12 ton hydraulic press. the freezing makes them almost mush in the skins. We get nigh on 85% juice out of the apple. the rest is a dried out hull.
I want to thank Brighid for making this available. I needed a fruit
sauce to play with during the holdays, and this is a grand one so far. It was quite popular for the crowd who had it.
niccolo difrancesco
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:22:07 –0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" rcmann4 at earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Dansk kogebog A: haerrae salsae (was: SC - On topic)
On 17 Apr 01,, UlfR wrote:
> I recently got my hands on a (borrowed) copy of Veirups "Til taffel hos Kong
> Valdemar" (Systime A/S, Viborg, Denmark, 1994). This is supposedly the
> oldest surviving European cookbook (dated to 1300). Any comments?
>
> In particular I'm looking at the camelina recipie (though it calles it
> "hÊrrÊ salsÊ" -- "lords sauce" -- it is to my mind pretty clearly a
> camelina). Apart from the usual camelina spices (cloves, nutmeg, pepper,
> cinnamon, and ginger) it also has cardamons. Has anyone seen that in any
> other camelina recipie?
The Catalan "Libre de Sent Sovi" has a recipe, not for cameline sauce, but for "Polvora de Duch". It contains 1/2 oz. cinnamon, 3/4 oz. ginger, and 1/4 oz. total of cloves, nutmeg, galingale, and cardamon. This is mixed with a pound of sugar. It is the only mention of cardamon in that cookbook.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 14:36:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Pixel, Queen of Cats" <pixel at hundred-acre-wood.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Need the wording for Garlic Jance
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Olwen the Odd wrote:
> So it goes well with pork eh? How about whole roasted pig? That's pork. I
> may make up a batch of this for Pennsic.
> Olwen
For that matter, Sauce piquant, ostensibly for bunnies, from Du fait de
cuisine, is really quite tasty on pork. Better on bunny, but good on pork.
Margaret FitzWilliam
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:56:22 +0200
From: tgl at mailer.uni-marburg.de
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] blue food
<< Here is a blue sauce from Epulario (Falconwood Press edition. Anyone
have the original?):
"To make a skie colour sauce in summer. Take wild mulberies which grow
in the Hedges, and a few stamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper
all this with Veriuice and straine it." >>
"Per fare sapore celestro nel tempo de estate.
PJglia de le more saluatiche che nascono nelle fratte: & vn poco de
mandole bene piste con vno puoco de gengeuere: & queste cose
distemprarai con agresto: & passaralo per la stamegna."
(Opera noua chiamata Epulario ... Venetia 1518, xx)
Here is a Maestro Martino version:
"Sapor celeste de estate.
Piglia de li moroni salvatiche che nascono in le fratte, et un poche
de amandole ben piste, con un pocho di zenzevero. Et queste
cose distemperarai con agresto et passarale per la stamegnia."
(Faccioli 156; the other Martino versions are slightly different)
Th.
From: "ruadh" <ruadh at home.com>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] blue food
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 09:58:26 -0400
> I *think* it's Barbara Santich's book that lists the blue sauce, and says
> it's a "lovely midnight-blue jelly", but that recipe calls for American
> blackberries. Which, if nothing else, are not in season and not easily
> available frozen around here. Even if I were going to use her redaction,
> which I'm not.
>
> Margaret, who has the other colors pretty much figured out
103. Summertime Cerulean Blue Sauce
Sky-blue sauce for summer
http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/706842.html
Take some of the wild blackberries that grow in hedgerows and some
thoroughly pounded almonds, with a little ginger. And moisten these things
with verjuice and strain through a sieve.
Toward the end of summer, when blackberries are at their best, this cerulean
blue sauce will add zest to your September meat dinners. The pectin in the
berries helps the sauce set to a lovely midnight-blue jelly that is a visual
foil and a delicious accompaniment to white meats such as veal and chicken.
1 quart (1 liter) blackberries
1/3 cup (50 g) unblanched almonds
2/3 cup verjuice, or a mixture of two parts cider vinegar to one part water
1/4-inch slice ginger, peeled
salt
Puree the blackberries in a food processor or food mill, and strain the
juice, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. In a mortar or in a
blender, grind the almonds and ginger, then mix with the blackberry juice.
Contact with the air will turn the mixture a dark blue.
Add the verjuice and strain once more. Season with salt to taste.
From: "Irmele von Gruensberg" <irmele at thebartholomews.com>
To: "Sca-Cooks" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 21:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Sca-cooks] yellow sauce
I just made Yellow Sauce (Poivre Jaunet or Aigret) as redacted
from Menagier de Paris in The Medieval Kitchen (recipe 109). It
was good but I didn't really know what to expect.
The sauce is quite yellow and has strong flavor of saffron, but I
may have overdone it a bit -- it's so hard to tell because the
quality varies. The ginger gives a bite but the flavor is well
balanced by the saffron and white wine vinegar, once I added
about 25% more vinegar (it was too bland at first tasting).
Irmele
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:55:12 -0700
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Seville Orange Juice
There's a 16th c. recipe for Seville Orange Juice Sauce, in Marx
Rumpolt's Ein New Kochbuch, that calls for the fresh juice of
Sauerpomeranzen (Seville oranges), sugar, and cinnamon, uncooked. I'd
like to serve it with roast pork legs at the Boar Hunt Feast.
However, fresh Seville Oranges are hard to find any time of year. I
have seen them at a local market, but they are only briefly
available, and aren't around now.
Anyone have any idea what I can use instead?
I have thought of:
diluted strained orange marmalade (since it's made of Seville oranges)
fresh orange juice and fresh grapefruit juice mixed
fresh orange juice in which orange peels have been soaked
Thanks for any suggestions,
Anahita
From: "Karen O" <kareno at lewistown.net>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] HELP!!!!
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 17:06:04 -0600
Gyric asked:
> I'm trying to cook Venison Medalions, and I need a recipe that comes with
> a heavy gravy/brown sauce.
I have an answer, only coz I've been looking for sauces to accompany
venison as well. _Pleyn Delit_ has 2 such entries: "Venysoun Y-roste with
Piper Sauce" and "Steykys of Venison or Bef" {# 71 & 72 respectively}
Basically pepper & cinnamon sauce(s).
Caointiarn
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:53:22 -0500
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
From: "Cindy M. Renfrow" <cindy at thousandeggs.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: medieval xmas foods, was: Computers
> ObFoodContent: what medieval food can be discretely introduced into
> modern christmas dinners?
I'm sneaking in 'Pikkyll pour le Mallard' - fried spiced onions - to go
with the chicken condon bleu & rice.
Harleian MS. 4016
36 Pikkyll pour le Mallard. Take oynons, and hewe hem small, and fry hem
in fressh grece, and caste hem into a potte, And fressh broth of beef,
Wyne, & powder of peper, canel, and dropping of the mallard/ And lete hem
boile togidur awhile; And take hit fro [th]e fyre, and caste thereto
mustard a litul, And pouder of ginger, And lete hit boile no more, and salt
hit, And serue it forthe with [th]e Mallard.
Cindy
From: "Ann and Les" <sheltons at sysmatrix.net>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 23:42:54 -0500
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Fennel
There is a simple sauce recipe in the "Cuoco Napoletano" that uses fennel as
an ingredient. I did a redaction for a University class I taught on Sauces.
People liked it well enough that it was one of the three sauces I sent to
feed the 600 folks at Atlantian 20 Year.
119. Verjuice With Garlic
Get a little garlic, fresh fennel and basil, grind this with a little pepper
and distemper it with good verjuice.
John le Burguillun
From: "Generys ferch Ednuyed" <generys at blazemail.com>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Hot Peppers
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:56:15 -0400
>>>
> Yeah, I made a ginger/pepper/garlic sauce for the feast I did yesterday
> (full report to come as soon as I get the pictures webbed)... anyway, due to
> something of a heavy hand when I was making it, it turned out basically
> like ginger wasabi - thick, good, but HOT... :-)
>
> Generys
> was that the brown stuff served with the lamb, etc? it was really
> tasty, but, yes, *very* hot!
> -Irmgart
Recipe, please?
Phlip
<<<
I used to have documentation written up for this, but I lost it when my laptop got stolen - it is a mostly period recipe, I just can't tell you the original until I find it again - I'm ALMOST sure it was in the Medieval Kitchen though - unfortunately I haven't seen that book in my house for a few months, so...
However, my redaction was:
Take 3 medium bulbs of garlic, and 1 stem of fresh ginger (about 6 inches worth?) - peel both, and place in Cuisinart (my newest cooking toy, I LOVE that thing...). Process until almost pureed. Add 1/4 cup or so fresh ground pepper (I ground mine in a molcajete, so it was very coarsely ground - which gave the sauce an interesting texture) 2 handfuls of bread crumbs (I have small hands, if that helps), about 3 ounces of red wine vinegar, and some olive oil, continue to process until it makes a thick sauce - it was about the consistency of commercial horseradish, just without the tendency to separate. Warning - this stuff WILL be very, very, hot. It's kind of like Wasabi made from ginger, lol.
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 13:15:06 -0400
From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Hot Peppers
Generys ferch Ednuyed wrote:
> I used to have documentation written up for this, but I lost it when my
> laptop got stolen - it is a mostly period recipe, I just can't tell you the
> original until I find it again - I'm ALMOST sure it was in the Medieval
> Kitchen though - unfortunately I haven't seen that book in my house
> for a few months, so... However, my redaction was:
>
> Take 3 medium bulbs of garlic, and 1 stem of fresh ginger (about 6
> inches worth?) -
How about the Garlic Sauce recipe 99 from
The Medieval Kitchen?
Garlic sauce for all meats: take the garlic and cook it in the
embers, then pound it thoroughly and add raw garlic and crumbs of bread
and sweet spices, and broth; and mix everything together and boil
it a little and serve hot. Source is Libro di Cucina del Secolo XIV.
Their adaptation calls for ginger, cinnamon, and cloves.
Johnnae llyn Lewis Johnna Holloway
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 13:42:33 -0400
From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Hot Peppers
Generys ferch Ednuyed wrote:
> That doesn't sound like it, because I remember the recipe specified the
> bread was supposed to be toasted until black... :-(
>
> Generys
It's this one then. number 108 Black Sauce
Black Poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and peppers, moisten
with vinegar and verjuice and boil. This one is from Scully's
Viandier.
I didn't consider it a possibility as it didn't include the garlic and
The other did.
Johnnae llyn Lewis
From: "Generys ferch Ednuyed" <generys at blazemail.com>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Hot Peppers
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 13:44:32 -0400
Yep, that's it - when I first used this recipe, I think I had another
similar recipe that did include both garlic and ginger, and was kind of
combining the two... not the greatest of documentation, I know, but it
did taste good...
Generys
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:16:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Hot Peppers
> Yep, that's it - when I first used this recipe, I think I had another
> similar recipe that did include both garlic and ginger, and was kind of
> combining the two... not the greatest of documentation, I know, but it
> did taste good...
>> It's this one then number 108 Black Sauce
>> Black Poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and peppers, moisten
>> with vinegar and verjuice and boil. This one is from Scully's
>> Viandier.
Well, except the other one might have been:
Sauce alapeuere. Take fayre broun brede, toste hit, and stepe it in
vinegre, and drawe it (th)urwe a straynour; and put (th)er-to garleke
smal y-stampyd, poudre piper, salt, & serue forth.
from Ashmole MS. 1439
In which case, I think it's not unreasonable to combine the two.
-- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
From: "Barbara Benson" <vox8 at mindspring.com>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:12:05 -0400
Subject: [Sca-cooks] (was hot peppers) now de Nola freaks - Horseradish
156. PARSLEY
PEREJIL
You must take the parsley and remove the roots, and strip off the leaves very well and clean it; and grind those leaves a great deal in a mortar; and after it is well-ground, toast a crustless piece of bread, and soak it in white vinegar, and grind it with the parsley; and after it is well-ground, cast a little pepper into the mortar, and mix it well with the parsley and the bread. And then cast in honey, which should be melted, in the mortar, stirring constantly in one direction until the honey incorporates itself with the sauce in the mortar; and if the sauce should be very thick, thin it with a little watered vinegar, so that it should not be very sour; and having done that, take two smooth pebbles from the sea or river, and cast them in the fire; and when they shall be quite ruddy and red, cast them with some tongs in the mortar in such a manner that they are quenched there; and when all this is done, taste it for flavor. And make it in such a manner that it tastes a little of pepper, and a little sweet-sour, and of parsley; and if any of these things is lacking, temper [the dish] with it.
157. Sauce of Horseradish and of Clary Sage
SALSA DE RABANO VEXISCO Y DE GALLOCRESTA
In the same manner as the parsley, you can also make sauce from the root of the horseradish. And the same from the leaves of clary sage.
Serena da Riva
freaky on just about everything
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:15:20 -0400
From: "Phi Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Summer is Here
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Monday, June 30, 2003, at 11:11 AM, Huette von Ahrens wrote:
> What sauce book is this?
Opusculum [de] Saporibus, I assume. IIRC, early 14th Century Milanese.
Maynero de Milano, or something close to that, the author... Sculy has
an article about this, and there's also a good, but much older, article
in Speculum from, I think, 1939, called, "A Medieval Sauce-book". It
might not be hyphenated. That article also contains a loose translation
from Latin.
Adamantius
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 09:48:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
To: sca-east at indra.com
Subject: [EK] sauces/spreads from war camp
A couple people asked me for the recipes for this stuff, so here they are.
Dilled cream cheese: <see spreads-msg –Stefan>
Sauce for Pigeons (the salsa stuff):
Original:
Sauce for Peiouns. Take percely, oynouns, garleke, and salt, and mynce
smal the percely and the oynouns, and grynde the garleke, and temper it
with vynegre y-now; and mynce the rostid peiouns and cast the sauce
ther-on a-boute, and serve it forth.
(Ashmole M.S. 1479, quoted in Take a Thousand Eggs by Cindy Renfrow)
* Snip parsley leaves from 3 large bunches off stems (I used a mixture
of curly and flat parsley).
* Grind about 3 cups of leaves in a food processor until seriously
minced; remove from food processor.
* Cut up about 4 medium onions into chunks and mince in food
processor.
* Add a handful of peeled garlic cloves.
* Remove and mix with minced parsley.
* Add red wine vinegar (about a cup) and mix so that the result is
moist with vinegar and salsa-like in texture.
(Can be made the night before and refrigerated. Should be let stand at
least 1/2 hour before serving in any case.)
Brown Mustard from Rumpolt:
Cinnamon Mustard:
<see mustards-msg –Stefan>
Tournai-Style Cameline:
<see camelne-sauce-msg - Stefan>
Spicy Green Sauce (the pesto-like stuff):
<see green-sauces-msg -Stfan>
Prune Sauce:
Original: "Take prunes and put them to soak in red wine and remove the
pits, pound them very well with a few unskinned almonds and a little
roasted or grilled bread soaked in the wine where the prunes had been. And
pound all these things together with a little verjuice and the
abovementioned wine, and a little boiled grape must, or sugar, which would
be much better; mix and strain, adding good spices, especially cinnamon."
1 lb prunes, soaked in burgundy wine to cover. (about 3 cups)
2-3 tablespoons ground unskinned almonds
one slice of toasted bread
1/2 cup water with a few teaspoons lemon juice (fake verjuice)
2-3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
long pepper, ginger and cardamom to taste
Soak the prunes, run them through a food processor, and add the bread, the
almonds, the wine and the water. Food process some more. Add sugar and
spices. Strain.
Black pepper sauce:
riginal: "Black poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and pepper, moisten
with vinegar and verjuice, and boil (The Viander of Taillevent,edited by
Scully, 227, translated in The Medieval Kitchen, Redon et al.)"
* 6 slices dark bread, burnt (I used rye with caraway)
* Equal parts cider vinegar and cider (1c.?) approximation for
verjuice
* 1 c. wine vinegar
* 6 Tb pepper
* 4 1/2 Tbsp powdered ginger
* 3 tsp salt
Crush up the charred bread into bread crumbs, grind up the pepper (use
fresh-ground) and mix with powdered ginger. Mix this with the vinegars
and add salt. Bring to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from heat. Keeps at
least a week refrigerated.
-- Pani Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 12:38:00 -0400
From: "Sayyida Halima al-Shafi'i of Raven's Cove" <lkuney at ec.rr.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] galantyne, was galangale
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Galantyne is a sauce made from vinegar thickened with bread crumbs and
flavored with galangale, ginger and cinnamon. I used red wine vinegar,
red wine, and some stock, as it was sharper than modern tastes are
accustomed to consuming.
Halima al-Shafi'i
Stronghold of Raven's Cove
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2004 17:09:54 -0700
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Swallenberg Sauce
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Quite a long time ago, we discussed here
Swallenberg Sauce from "daz Buch von guter Spise".
It seems that there was an error in the
translation in a version of the a recipe commonly
available on the Internet, one which many of us
cooks have perpetuated. In fact, i did it myself.
I would like to correct the error on my website.
That is, while i cannot change what i did at a
feast a few years ago, i'd like to add a
corrected translation and some notes.
However, with the death of my hard drive in
February, all my personal archives are lost,
including about 5 years of messages from this
list... so i can't find our previous discussion.
Here i am sort of resurrecting it - albeit we no
doubt have some different listees now.
Hee's a version of original recipe:
49. Ein gut salse
Nim win und honigsaum. setze daz uf daz fiur und
laz ez sieden. und tu dar zu gestozzen ingeber me
denne pfeffers. stoz knobelauch. doch niht al zu
vil und mach ez stark. und ruerez mit eyer
schinen. lazez sieden biz daz ez [word in
dispute: brünnien (Atlas) brinnen (Adamson)]
beginne. diz sal man ezzen in kaldem wetere und
heizzet swallenberges salse.
(Alia Atlas, http://cs-people.bu.edu/akatlas/Buch/recipes.html )
(Melitta Weiss Adamson, page 77 (see blow for ref.)
Here's the Atlas translation:
49. A good sauce.
Take wine and honey. Set that on the fire and let
it boil. And add thereto pounded ginger more than
pepper. Pound garlic, but not all too much, and
make it strong and give it impetus with egg
whites. Let it boil until it begins to become
brown. One should eat this in cold weather and is
called Swallenberg sauce.
Here's the Adamson translation:
49. A good sauce.
Take wine and honey, put that on the fire, let it
boil, and add ground ginger more than pepper.
Pound garlic, not too much, however, make it
strong, and stir with a stick. Let it boil until
it starts smoking. This you should eat in cold
weather, and is called Sauce a la Swallenberg.
The two biggest differences, beyond mere turn of phrase are:
(1) Original: und ruerez mit eyer schinen
(1a) Atlas: and give it impetus with egg whites.
(1b) Adamson: and stir with a stick.
The first (1) changes the ingredients.
(2) Original, Atlas: laz ez sieden biz daz ez brunnien beginne.
Original, Adamso: laz ez sieden biz daz es brinnen beginne.
(2a) Atlas: Let it boil until it begins to become brown.
(2b) Adamson: Let it boil until it starts smoking.
The second (2) changes the cooking. Atlas appears
to have changed the first "i" to a "u", which
seems o change the meaning of the German word.
Adamson acknowledges removing the "i" in the
second syllable. However, in Adamson footnote 26,
page 103, that Lemmer/Schultz, 65, translate
"brinnien" as "glasig werden", a term used for
fried onions or garlic justbefore they turn
golden brown. This looks to me like "becomes
glassy", i.e., translucent... Or am i way off
here, German speakers? Anyway, based on the foot
note in Adamson, i would cook it as Atlas
recommends.
So, ultimately, it appears to me that some
combined version of the two is more accurate -
leaving out the egg white (which made the sauce
an interesting green color, but otherwise didn't
seem to alter it exceedingly) and NOT bringing it
to the stage where it "smokes" - unless "smoking"
here implies that one can see vapors escaping...
What think you all?
Anahita
--- Bibliographic Reference ---
Melitta Weiss Adamson
Daz bouch von gouter spise (The Book of Good Food)
A Study, Edition, and English Translation of the Oldest German Cookbook
Medium Aevu Quotidianum
Herausgegaeben von Gerhard Jaritz
Sonderband IX
Krems (Oesterrich) 2000
ISBN 3-90 1094 12 1
Purchased from Devra of Poison Pen Press
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 08:19:30 -0700
From: "Laura C. Minnick" <lcm at jeffnet.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> So, since BBQ sauce isn't period, what are your recommendations on pork
> ribs? (besides the ubiquitous cameline sauce)
Try Poivre Jaunet. I made some last February for Regina's birthday party
(She yurend 57, so we had steaks and a variety of sauces!).
You can find it at http://www.godecookery.com/goderec/grec67.htm USE THE
PERIOD RECIPE not the redaction. Read them through and you'll know why.
Make it up a day or two ahead. It can pack a punch, but the flavors mellow
and blend a bit after a day or so and it is really, really good. I think it
would be delicious on your ribs! (But be sure to take your tunic off before
putting it on your ribs... uh... well...
Move along, Gracie...
'Lainie
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 12:21:35 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Laura C. Minnick:
>> So, since BBQ sauce isn't period, what are your recommendations on
>> pork ribs? (besides the ubiquitous cameline sauce)
>
> Try Poivre Jaunet. I made some last February for Regina's birthday
> party (She yurend 57, so we had steaks and a variety of sauces!).
>
> You can find it at http://www.godecookery.com/goderec/grec67.htm USE
> THE PERIOD RECIPE not the redaction. Read them through and you'll
> know why.
>
> Make it up a day or two ahead. It can pack a punch, but the flavors
> mellow and blend a bit after a day or so and it is really, really
> good. I think it would be delicious on your ribs! (But be sure to
> take your tunic off before putting it on your ribs... uh... well...
I can attest to the poivre jaunet kicking butt. I made it with white
wine vinegar as the basis for a veal stew, as Taillevent speaks of
veal in yellow pepper sauce but doesn't say how to make it as a
fusion dish, so to speak). Mine was probably less tangy than
'Lainie's appears to be, but this is presumably due to dilution with
veal broth.
My favorite sauce for things like this is the Rich Pepper Sauce found
in the 13th-century Anglo-Norman recipe manuscripts published in
Speculum in, I believe, the 80's, a copy of which, at the moment, I
have inaccessibly buried. It involves grapes pounded in a mortar and
strained to get must, a thickening of fresh white bread crumbs,
ginger, and lots of freshly ground black or long pepper. I don't
recall whether it calls for a pinch of salt but adding one helps.
Initially I made it with frozen grape juice, and that works quite
well, and you can get it to be a rather bright, but deep, purple, and
the sweetness goes well with pork. It's also great with rare venison
cutlets, which are slightly purple anyway...
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 17:49:41 -0400
From: Daniel Myers <edouard at medievalcookery.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Aug 8, 2004, at 11:07 AM, Patrick Levesque wrote:
> So, since BBQ sauce isn't period, what are your recommendations on pork
> ribs? (besides the ubiquitous cameline sauce)
"Carolina" honey-mustard BBQ sauce is period (sort of).
Source [Curye on Inglish, Constance B. Hieatt & Sharon Butler (eds.)]:
LUMBARD MUSTARD. XX.VII. V. Take Mustard seed and waishe it & drye it
in an ovene, grynde it drye. farse it thurgh a farse. clarifie hony
with wyne & vynegur & stere it wel togedrer and make it thikke ynowz. &
whan thou wilt spende therof make it tnynne with wyne.
- Doc
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Edouard Halidai (Daniel Myers)
http://www.medievalcookery.com/
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 18:21:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat <mordonna22 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Pork Ribs
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
I'm kinda partial to basting them liberally while roasting with
Cormarye sauce:
Curye on Inglysch p. 109 (Forme of Cury no. 54)
Take colyaundre, caraway smale grounden, powdour of peper and garlec
ygrounde, in rede wyne; medle alle + ise togyder and salt it. Take
loynes of pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf,
and lay it in the sawse. Roost it whan + ou wilt, & kepe + at fallith +
erfro in the rostyng and see+ it in a possynet with faire broth, and
serue it forth wi+ + e roost anoon.
My translation:
Take coriander, caraway ground small, powder of pepper and ground
garlic in red wine. Mix all this together and salt it. Take raw loins
of pork and remove the skin, and prick it well with a knife and lay it
in the sauce. Roast it when thou wilt, and save the drippings. Boil
the drippings in a pan with good broth and serve it with the roast.
My recipe:
1 TBS whole coriander seed
1 TBS whole caraway seed
1 TBS minced garlic
1 tsp. Ground black pepper
1 tsp. Salt
2 cups sweet red wine
Marinate pork in sauce several hours, or overnight, then baste
frequently while roasting. Save the drippings to mix with 2 cups of
chicken broth. Boil until reduced by half, and serve with the pork.
Pat Griffin
Lady Anne du Bosc
known as Mordonna the Cook
www.mordonnasplace.com
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 22:40:00 -0400
From Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs// Rich Pepper Sauce
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius wrote:
> My favorite sauce for things like this is the Rich Pepper Sauce found
> in the 13th-century Anglo-Norman recipe manuscripts published in
> Speculum in, I believe, the 80's, a copy of which, at the moment, I
> have inaccessibly buried. It involves grapes pounded in a mortar and
> strained to get must, a thickening of fresh white bread crumbs,
> ginger, and lots of freshly ground black or long pepper. I don't
> recall whether it calls for a pinch of salt but adding one helps.
> Initially I made it with frozen grape juice and that works quite
> well, and you can get it to be a rather bright, but deep, purple, and
> the sweetness goes well with pork. It's also great with rare venison
> cutlets, which are slightly purple anyway...
>
> Adamantius
Rich Pepper Sauce.
A sauce called rich pepper. Take a bunch of grapes and put them in a morta[r] with a little salt; crush the fruit well, then pour off the juice: put ginger
and pepper and a little bread in a mortar and grind well, then mix with the
juice, etc. [etc. here means "and serve it."] page 876
Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections. Hieatt and Jones. Speculum 61. 1986.
Just happened to have it available and at the ready.
Johnnae
Date Sun, 08 Aug 2004 22:56:10 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs// Rich Pepper Sauce
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
It's late and I can't type well anyway... put it in mortar of course.
It's recipe 19 for those interested in recipe collection A.
Pevre gresse in the original. The notes suggests additional recipes
of like ingredients
in Menagier de Paris, a couple of versions of Le Viandier, and
CI.1.39 which the Diversa Cibaria or Diuersa Cibaria where
recipe 39 is A Sauce (th)at hatte peyuere egresse. It calls for salt by
the way.
Johnnae
Johnna Holloway wrote:
> RichPepper Sauce.
> A sauce called rich pepper. Take a bunch of grapes and put them
> in a mortat with
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 16:13:57 -0600
From: "caointiarn" <caointiarn1 at juno.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: "Coos within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> So, since BBQ sauce isn't period, what are your recommendations on pork
ribs? (besides the ubiquitous camelne sauce)<
Cider Sauce! from Brighid's or Vincent's translations . . . .yummy
stuff!
Apple Cider Sauce (Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599)
As redacted by Lady Brighid ni Chiarainmka/Robin Carroll-Mann
To make 1 cup:
2 cups swee apple cider
1/2 lb. sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/8 cup white wine
1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat about
45 minutes, until the volume i reduced by half and a candy thermometer
reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour into a clean glass
jar. Refrigerate.
Caointiarn
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 19:09:20 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On 9 Aug 2004, at 16:13, caointiarn wrote:
>> So, since BBQ sauce isn't period, what are your recommendations on
>> pork ribs? (besides the ubiquitous cameline sauce)<
>
> Cider Sauce! from Brighid's or Vincent's translations . . .
(This particular translation is mine. Vincente translated de Nola, but I don't
believe he's worked with Granado.)
> .yummy stuff!
I'm embarrassed that I didn't think of this. The honey-horseradish
sauce from de Nola would also be a possibility.
http://www.florilegium.org/files/PLANTS/horseradish-msg.text
Brighid, who really ought to be sewing or packing or cleaning
Brighid ni Chiarain *** mka Robin Carroll-Mann
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 12:02:27 +0000
From: ekoogler1 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
I believe that this is the recipe I tried a couple of years back...it
was wonderful on pork or chicken. In fact, it was so good, I bottled
it and gave it out as Twelfth Night gifts!
Kiri
> Cider Sauce! from Brighid's or Vincent's translations . . . .yummy
> stuff!
>
>> Apple Cider Sauce (Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599)
>> As redacted by Lady Brighid ni Chiarainmka/Robin Carroll-Mann
>> To make 1 cup:
>> 2 cups sweet apple cider
>> 1/2 lb. sugar
>> 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
>> 1/8 cup white wine
>> 1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
>> 1/2 whole nutmeg
>> 4 whole cloves
>>
> Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat about
> 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy thermometer
> reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour into a clean glass
> jar. Refrigerate.
>
> Caointiarn
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 13:51:58 -0400
From: "grizly" <grizly at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Pork ribs
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I'm embarassed that I didn't think of this. The honey-horseradish sauce from
> de Nola would also be a possibility.
> http://www.florilegium.org/files/PLANTS/horseradish-msg.text
>
> Brighid, who really ought to be sewing or packing or cleaning
You might also look at an olde favorite, Egurdouce. It makes a mighty fine
basting sauce, and can be used as the marinade ahead of time, then a serving
sauce afterword. It would be a bit of variation from original recipe, but
been done before.
http://franiccolo.home.mindspring.com/
olde_eng_fest_recipes.html#egurdouce
Make the c\sauce and marinate meat. Grill and capture drippings for sauce
enrichment. Simmer sauce and serve with meat.
niccolo difrancesco
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 18:29:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Sauces, was: Pillsbury pie crusts
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
--- Phlip <phlip at 99main.com> wrote:
> Actually, I was thinking of working on emulsions shortly, specificly
> home-made mayonnaise and the Hollandaise family of sauces.
>
> Anybody got any recipes they'd suggest? I can usually get them right, but I
> still break a few, and I'd like to get it down to perfection...
Here is a book that I consider a definitive book on the subject of sauces:
Peterson, James.
Sauces : classical and contemporary sauce
making / James Peterson. 2nd ed.
New York : Van Nostrand Reinhold, c1998.
xxv, 598 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 27 cm.
ISBN: 0442026153
It has a huge amount of sauces in one book, it
is easy to read and understand, I have used it
many times and think it well worth the money.
The first edition of this book received the
James Beard Cookbook of the Year Award for 1991.
Huette
Here is a review of the book:
Back in 1991, when the first edition of Sauces
was published, it's as though James Peterson
said, "Okay, this is what we know so far. Where
do you want to go from here?" The "what we know
so far" part started with the Greeks and Romans,
moved through the Middle Ages, into the
Renaissance, through the 17th and 18th centuries,
and right on into time as we know it, time that
can be tasted in the sauce.
The "where do you want to go" part continues to
evolve, as it always will, but remains just as
evident in the way we sauce our creations, both
elegant and fundamental. In the second edition of
Sauces, released seven years after the first, the
"we" has expanded beyond Frenchmen and their
disciples, and now includes the broader range of
flavors experienced by Italians as pasta sauces,
as well as New World cooks and their counterparts
in the Middle East and throughout greater Asia.
The solid base from which all this grows,
however, remains the lessons learned in the
French kitchen--and a better kitchen for such
lessons has never been developed.
To cook is one thing, to sauce another. The right
sauce lifts the right dish to a wholly different
plateau of dining than would be the case if the
cook didn't bother. This can be a humble pasta
sauce created as a perfect balance of ingredients
on hand, or a carefully considered sauce the
ingredients of which have been developed at the
stove over days, not mere hours.
In the sauce can be seen the reflection of the
cook. There is no room to hide. In the
well-crafted sauce can be found the ultimate
expression of simplicity, which leaves even less
room to hide. It is James Peterson's great talent
that he can draw the home cook and professional
cook into his dialogue on sauces, and teach them
both how to stay afloat in such shallow waters.
Peterson gives the reader--in close to 600 pages,
mind you--the continuum on which sauces have been
based in culinary history. He gives the reader
the kitchen science that allows sauces to work.
He gives the reader the techniques necessary to
follow along where many a cook has already
whisked up a splendid creation. But most of all,
he gives the reader permission to go ahead and be
creative, to cut loose with knowledge and
technique in hand and discover for oneself the
way an inkling of a flavor idea can find its way
to a dish and make the combined ingredients lift
off the plate. Or not. Finding out what doesn't
work can be just as important.
This is a book that can be taken to bed and
savored, page by page, sauce by sauce. It is a
book that should be on the shelf in any kitchen,
professional or homebody alike. It is not a book
to ever gather dust and need dusting. --Schuyler
Ingle
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 16:03:40 EST
From: Bronwynmgn at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Gunthar Updates
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
ahrenshav at yahoo.com writes:
<<> :Stewd Beef (Short Ribs braised in a broth of onion, currants, red wine,
> vinegar and spices)
> :Sauge or Hen with Sage Sauce (Roasted chicken with a sauce of ginger,
> galingale, cloves, red wine vinegar, sage and topped with hard boiled egg)
Both these items use red wine vinegar or red
wine and vinegar. Since you don't say how much
you are using I am making an assumption, do you
really want two sharp tasting dishes in the same
course?>>
Having done Sauge myself, I can vouch for the fact that the use of the sage
and the hard-boiled eggs makes for a VERY different tasting sauce than what you
would get from stewed beef. They are both sharp, but not sharp in anything
resembling the same way.
Brangwayna
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 09:14:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Alexa <mysticgypsy1008 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] wine vinegar
To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
--- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net> wrote:
> Hm... can you post the recipe? Then you'll get lots
> of advice... :)
Sure! Here it is, and thanks for the help!
Alexa
Sauce Alapeuere
PERIOD: England, 15th century | SOURCE: Ashmole MS
1429 | CLASS: Authentic
DESCRIPTION: Pepper and Garlic Sauce
ORIGINAL RECEIPT:
Take fayre broun brede, toste hit, and stepe it in
vinegre, and drawe it thurwe a straynour; and put
ther-to garleke smal y-stampyd, poudre piper, salt,
and serue forth.
- Austin, Thomas. Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books.
Harleian MS. 279 & Harl. MS. 4016, with extracts from
Ashmole MS. 1429, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS 55. London:
for The Early English Text Society by N. Trübner &
Co., 1888.
MODERN RECIPE:
1 C wine vinegar
1/2 C toasted brown bread crumbs
6 or more cloves of garlic, crushed
1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
2 T black pepper, or to taste
1. In a bowl combine vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper.
2. Stir in bread crumbs and allow to sit for about
fifteen minutes. Whisk the sauce to smooth it out. Add
more vinegar if it gets too thick. Serve with meat or fowl.
Yields one cup of sauce.
NOTES ON THE RECIPE:
This is a strong and easy sauce that goes well with
beef or fowl.
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 13:12:17 -0400
From: "Micyalah" <dy018 at freenet.carleton.ca>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] OOP Strawberries
To: "'Cooks within the SCA'" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Favourite savoury strawberry sauce (and you can freeze it!).......
TATEOM, v.1, pg 206 - thanks Cindy :)
Micaylah
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 07:58:12 +0100
From: Volker Bach <carlton_bach at yahoo.de>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Apple cider
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Am Freitag, 11. November 2005 04:06 schrieb Robin:
> Sheila McClune wrote:
>> Is apple cider period? How about mulled cider?
>>
>> Arwen
>> Outlands
> Hard cider is certainly period. I don't know if sweet (non-alcoholic)
> cider is period.
As a cooking ingredient it is - at least in Germany. It features in
sauce in the Königsberg MS. But I can't prove anyone drank it ATM.
Giano
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 12:13:47 -0500
From: Robin <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Apple cider
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Volker Bach wrote:
>> Hard cider is certainly period. I don't know if sweet (non-
>> alcoholic) cider is period.
>
> As a cooking ingredient it is - at least in Germany. It features in
> sauce in the Königsberg MS. But I can't prove anyone drank it ATM.
>
> Giano
Likewise, there is a recipe for a sauce made with apple juice and spices
in Granado (1599). Alonso de Herrera's agricultural manual (1551 ed.)
has a section on apple trees. He says that wine made from apples is
called cider, and that they make a lot of it in Vizcaya (region of
northern Spain). It is a beverage that quenches thirst well. He also
comments that sour apples can be used to make vinegar. No mention of
drinking the unfermented juice.
I can't see that it would be a practical beverage. Unpasturized apple
juice doesn't last long without spoiling or fermenting. There are
descriptions of keeping apples, packed in straw, in a cool place, but
apples are not a good choice for juicing in small quantities.
There are descriptions of spiced honey-water, if someone is looking for
a spiced non-alcoholic beverage, but it is intended to be served cold,
in the summer.
--
Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 03:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: <tom.vincent at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] OOP: Frozen sauces
To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
Well, as the subject indicates, it was an OOP discussion.
However, the period strawberry sauce I did was from 'Take a Thousand
Eggs'.
Here a brief portion of my docs from many years ago:
Strawberry Sauce
Take Strawberries, & wash them in time of year in good red wine; then
strain though a cloth, & put them in a pot with good Almond milk, mix
it with White flour or with the flour of Rice, to make it thick and
let it boil, and put therein Raisins of Corinth, Saffron, Pepper,
Sugar great plenty, powdered Ginger, Cinnamon, Galingale; point it
with Vinegar, & a little white grease put thereto; color it with
Alkanet, & drop it about, plant it with the grains of pomegranate, &
then serve it forth. < 1 >
- Harleian MS. 279
(published approx. 1420)
The original recipe, shown above, has no measurements and no timing.
The medieval chef was assumed to know the proper quantities and
cooking times. My adaptation is as follows:
Ingredients
1 lb. frozen strawberries
1 cup red wine
1 cup strained almond milk (1/2 cup blanched almonds, 1 cup water, 1
T date sugar)
2 T rice flour
1/2 cup currants
dash white pepper
1/2 cup sugar
2 t ginger powder
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t galingale
4 T red wine vinegar
1 T butter
pinch saffron
pomegranate seeds
Instructions
The almond milk was made according to a medieval recipe < 2 > .
The strawberries, red wine, and almond milk were blended together
using a blender. The mixture was brought to a boil in a saucepan,
then the rice flour was added to thicken.
The currants, red wine vinegar, butter, and spices were added and
cooked for about 5 minutes.
I decided to serve it over roast chicken in order to show the sauce
in use.
Summary of Ingredients
The almonds, white pepper, galingale, ginger, cinnamon, saffron and
sugar were quite expensive during the time period. Each of these
items came from either a very far distance away (white pepper,
galingale, ginger, cinnamon, and almonds) or were time-consuming in
acquiring (saffron and sugar).
Although the original recipe calls for Alkanet, I decided to not add
it, as it is merely used to give even more of a red color to the
sauce, and because it can be toxic.
Historical Reference
This recipe came from a collection of recipes written about 1420 in
England. As the only written recipes from that time period were
those of royalty or nobility, this collection is thought to have been
from the chef or chefs of some great family of the time.
Strawberries were mentioned as having been served at a feast in three
courses in a manuscript dated 1450. < 3 >
Who it was made by
At such a prestigious event as a feast, the chef of the host
(normally a nobleman, priest, or royalty) would be in charge of the
preparation. The mere existence of this recipe, from a 1420
manuscript, points to the nobility of the dish.
1)
Take A Thousand Eggs Or More, Renfrow, pp. 206-207
2)
Take A Thousand Eggs Or More, Renfrow, pp. 222-223
3)
Take A Thousand Eggs Or More, Renfrow, pg. 341
4)
Unless otherwise notes, ingredients descriptions are taken from
Software Toolworks Multimedia Encyclopedia CD-ROM
5)
Take A Thousand Eggs Or More, Renfrow, pg. 228
6)
Spices and Natural Flavorings, Mulherin, Pg. 78
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 22:03:42 -0400
From: Daniel Myers <eduard at medievalcookery.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] OOP: Frozen sauces
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
On Jun 2, 2006, at 6:54 AM, <tom.vincent at yahoo.com>
<tom.vincent at yahoo.com> wrote:
> However, the period strawberry sauce I did was from 'Take a
> Thousand Eggs'.
> Here a brief portion of my docs from many years ago:
>
> Strawberry Sauce
> Take Strawberries, & wash them in time of year in good red wine;
> then strain though a cloth, & put them in a pot with good Almond
> milk, mix it with White flour or with the flour of Rice, to make it
> thick and let it boil, and put therein Raisins of Corinth, Saffron,
> Pepper, Sugar great plenty, powdered Ginger, Cinnamon, Galingale;
> point it with Vinegar, & a little white grease put thereto; color
> it with Alkanet, & drop it about, plant it with the grains of
> pomegranate, & then serve it forth. < 1 >
> - Harleian MS. 279
A minor concern here. From looking at the original source, I don't
see anywhere that it suggests this be used as a sauce. It reads more
like a sort of pudding, similar to applemuse. It is listed in "Take
a Thousand Eggs" in the section on sauces, but I believe this is in
error.
- Doc
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2006 20:32:17 -0700
From: "Laura C. Minnick" <lcm at jeffnet.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] OOP: Frozen sauces
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
At 08:19 PM 6/2/2006, you wrote:
> You mean other than the name?
>
> Duriel
>>
>> A minor concern here. From looking at the original source, I don't
>> see anywhere that it suggests this be used as a sauce. It reads more
>> like a sort of pudding, similar to applemuse. It is listed in "Take
>> a Thousand Eggs" in the section on sauces, but I believe this is in
>> error.
Duriel, in the original text (_Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books_, which
is open on my lap at the moment) the word 'sauce' is not used. The dish is
simply called 'Strawberye', and is grouped with 'Potage Dyvers'. It was the
editors of _1000 Eggs_ that added the 'sauce' to the title.
'Lainie
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 08:17:21 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] mayo questions
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
The theory is based on the idea that Marie Antoine Careme would have known
the origin of the name if mayonnaise had been created as late as 1756, ergo
the name must be older than it appears. Since the word first appears in
English in (IIRC) Thackery's Memoirs of a Gormand (1841), I find the earlier
dates a little questionable as to the origin of the name. The most commonly
accepted version of the naming relates to the sauce being prepared in
celebration of the capture of Mahon on the island of Minorca.
The sauce is another matter. A version of allioli, the Catlan garlic and
oil sauce appears in Pliny. The Provencal version, aioli, is made with eggs
and is essentially a garlic mayonnaise. If we accept the sauce served after
the capture of Mahon in the Balaeric Islands was a local version of
mayonnaise, then we have three points of geographic commonality that suggest
mayonnaise is a regional sauce of Mediterranean France and Spain with a long
history of developement that probably made it one of the first emulsified
sauces. !6th Century, maybe. 17th Century, almost certainly.
BTW, Mayenne was created as a department of France in 1790, replacing the
old County of Maine, which left me puzzled as to why the Comte de Maine
would be referred to as the Duc de Mayenne. The title of Duc de Mayenne was
created in 1573 for a cadet branch of the de Guise family headed by one
Charles de Guise or Charles de Lorraine.
Bear
> So I was wondering about sauces in period and started surfing around looking
> at information. I've always assumed that mayo was/is a modern (for our
> purposes) invention and then I found this:
>
> "There is also the theory that the sauce was unnamed until after the Battle
> of Arques in 1589. It was then christened ?Mayennaise? in memory of Charles
> de Lorraine, duc de Mayenne, because he took time to finish his meal of
> chicken with cold sauce before being defeated in battle by Henri IV."
>
> Granted it DOES say theory and I found it here:
> http://www.foodhistory.com/foodnotes/leftovers/mayo/info/
> So, I am wondering what everyone here has to say about mayonnaise.
>
> Hedwig
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 18:41:53 -0600
From: Michael Gunter <countgunthar at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sauces for Caerthe's (in the Outlands) 12th
night feast
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
For beef, I really like Sauce Aliper (Garlic-Pepper Sauce).
For fowl you can try black sauce made from the innards. It's tastier
than it sounds.
Strawberry Sauce is also very good.
Check out Pleyn Delit for some wonderful sauces.
Gunthar
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 21:18:53 +0000
From: Olwen the Odd <olwentheodd at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Late Italian feast
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Barbe Robert
(From The Vivendier)
Firstly, to make a Barbe Robert. Get a little clear water and set it
to boil with some butter; then add in wine, mustard, verjuice and
such spices and as strong as you like, and let everything boil
together. Then get your pieces of chicken, put them in and let them
boil only briefly; then roast them. Watch that there is a reasonable
amount of broth. It should be colored a little with saffron.
In le Grand Cuisinier (1583) there is a mention of a sauce Barbe
Robert, sauce already found in le Viandier under the name "taillemasl?
e" (fried onions, verjus, vinegar, mustard) for roasted rabbit, fry
fish and fry egg.
Francois Rabelais (Circa 1483-1553)in le Quart-Livre, mention:
"Robert, the one who invented the sauce Robert indispensable for
roast, rabbits, duck, pork, poached eggs..."
la Varenne (1651, French), who uses capers to jazz up the common
medieval Sauce Robert. Yum! Mustard, vinegar, capers, green onions
and butter, whisked till smooth. Taillevent and friends use it on
fish, la Varenne recommends it on boar and other meats.
Olwen
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 03:32:42 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Need Advice on cookbooks
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
jwills47933 at aol.com wrote:
<<< Okay I am doing a sauce project and I need to find cookbooks and I am not having any luck. snipped
Morvran >>>
Searching under "medieval sauces" in Google turns up these papers
that have already been done in the SCA-- many in fact by members of this
list.
*Medieval Sauces*
<http://falseisle.antir.sca.org/temp/Medieval_Sauces_2006_10_21.pdf>;
*Medieval Sauces*. An Introduction. Taught by Her Ladyship Elena de
Maisnilwarin. Page 2. *Medieval Sauces*. Page 2 of 13. Author: Elena de
Maisnilwarin (Elaine *...*
Sauces <http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/cooking/sauces.html>;
Making *Medieval Sauces*. A class by Jadwiga Zajaczkowa. This class will
consider the nature of medieval and renaissance sauces, discuss the
theory of humors *...*
Easy *Medieval Sauces* Cinnamon (Cameline) Sauces Black Pepper
Sauces <http://www.fridayvalentine.com/rafaella/sauce_class2004.pdf>;
Easy *Medieval Sauces*. Mestra Rafaella d'Allemtejo, OL *...* Come make
easy *medieval* *sauces* using easy to procure ingredients in easy to
mix applications. *...*
"The-Saucebook-art" by L. Allison Poinvillars.
<http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD/The-Saucebook-art.html>;
There are another 200 matches under those search terms.
Have you read those papers yet or a selection of those papers?
Johnnae
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 04:43:44 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Need Advice on cookbooks
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Besides the papers and cookbooks, you should also look at the
various dietaries and works on health.
Perhaps you could start with with:
*Eating Right in the Renaissance by Ken Albala
and
**Medieval dietetics: Food and drink in regimen sanitatis literature
from 800 to 1400 by Adamson
*
Both will lead you into that literature and what it has to say on sauces.*
Johnnae
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:32:19 -0400
From: Gretchen Beck <grm at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] recipes w/spice
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Chiquart's Beef in Lamprey sauce uses galangal and grains of paradise.
Here's my reconstruction from several years back:
for 3 lbs of cooked beef roast
Sauce
4 Tbsp Toasted bread crumbs
3/4 cup Red wine
3/4cup Beef Boulion or broth
1-2 Tbsp Red wine vinegar
1/4 - 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp grains of paradise
1/8 - 1/4 tsp pepper
1/16 tsp nutmeg
1/4 - 1/2 tsp galingale
1/4 tsp ginger
1/8 tsp cloves
1/16 tsp mace
Mix wine, boullion, and vinegar, soak bread crumbs in the mixture. Grind
spices together into a fine powder and mix into liquid. Put on low heat and
simmer. Cut beef up into stew sized chunks, and simmer in sauce for 15
minutes. Serve it forth.
(It's yummy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2008 11:30:19 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] English Food
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
On Jul 4, 2008, at 9:21 AM, Barbara Benson wrote:
<<< To give a second option on sauces what would you recommend? Maybe a
mustard would be complementary? >>>
Mustard is always good, and you can make it up weeks in advance (in
fact you should, usually) and store it for when you need it. I think
my favorite period version is a simple semi-wholegrain, semi-coarse
ground Lombardy honey mustard -- mustard seeds, vinegar, white wine,
salt, and honey. Kinda like that coarse Dijon with honey?
One of the slightly more obscure ones that's always a hit when I serve
it is from those Two Anglo-Norman Cookery Manuscripts that Hieatt and
Jones wrote about in Speculum in the 80's. I think it's called Rich
Pepper Sauce, and calls for the usual fresh-ground black pepper (it is
sublime with long pepper), bread-soaked-in-vinegar, ginger and salt,
and for it all to be thinned down with the main ingredient, which is
strained grape pulp. This is just magnificent on venison, beef, or
other red meats, and though I've never tried the combination, I can't
imagine it not being good with pork. I'll see if I can dig out a
redaction; I must have one somewhere.
Another one that's very popular around here is the sauce from what is
really more of a stew, in this case duck in civey. Here's a
description of the process in an old post to this list from 2006:
Basically, you boil ducks (you can also partially roast or brown
them in a pan, but we didn't), then boil onions (and lots of them --
in the same broth?) until they fall into a puree when you look at
them -- really soft. Puree the onions with some of the duck broth to
get a slightly thick onion sauce, thicken it with toasted (i.e.
brown) bread crusts soaked in vinegar and pureed. Season with salt
and pepper, add more vinegar if necessary, and stir in a little duck
fat at the end to give it a sheen.
For the onions in a bulk setting, I put 10 pounds of whole, peeled
onions and just under a quart of water in the pressure cooker (using
the rack in the bottom) and processed them for 45 minutes (which is
probably akin to boiling them for about 3 1/2 hours in an ordinary
pot). When the pot was cool enough to open, I took the onions out
with a slotted spoon and used the same water (now bulked out with
onion juice) for a second batch of another 10 pounds of onion. The
second batch oxidized a little in the cooking, not burning by the
remotest stretch, but producing very soft onions of a sort of
caramel-cream shade. I pureed it all in a blender with enough of the
brown syrupy stuff (there's a lot of sugar in those onions if you
can get the fiber to break down, hence the pressure cooker). The end
result was a pretty concentrated onion "applesauce".
Just a few ideas... If you have people suspicious of sauces, I find
it's good to give them the name of the sauce, but also tell them what
it is in familiar terms: garlic cream sauce, onion gravy, etc.
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 12:55:30 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <rcarrollmann at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Boiled Cider/Is there a medieval counterpart?
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
There is a sauce in Granado (Spanish, 1599) that is fresh apple cider
boiled-down with spices, wine, sugar, and vinegar. The recipe doesn't
indicate what it's used for, but (not surprisingly), it goes well with
pork.
The translated recipe and a redaction are on my website:
http://breadbaker.tripod.com/sauces.html
Brighid ni Chiarain
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 08:11:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: rene chaisson <renechaisson at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] trying to refind source
To: Sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
I made a wonderful lemon wine sauce for carbonados from Frantz de Rontzier: Kunstbuch von mancherley Essen / Gesotten /
Gebraten / Posteten / von Hirschen / Vogelen / Wildprat / und anderen
Schawessen / so auff Fuerstlichen / und anderen Pancketen zuzurichten
geh?richt ("An artful book of many foods, boiled, roasted, and pastries, of
harts, poultry, venison and other show dishes that are properly prepared for
princely and other banquets"), Wolfenb?ttel 1598, pp. 121-127.
I didn't save the web info, but I remember there being over 20 different sauces that could be used and now can't find the link. Can't afford 350$ for the book itself, so shouting out for help.
Tia
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:12:17 -0500
From: "Elaine Koogler" <kiridono at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Ideas for homemade holiday gifts
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
I also made a Cider Sauce that is period:
Para Hacer Salsa de Zumo de Manzanas (Cider Sauce)
Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, Madrid, 1599
Translated/Redacted by Robin Carroll-Mann (Brighid ni Chiarain)
1 quart sweet apple cider (non-alcoholic)
1 lb. sugar
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup white wine (I used an inexpensive dry white wine)
1 ounce cinnamon sticks
1 whole nutmeg, cut in half
8 whole cloves
1. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
thermometer reads 220F (105C).
2. Strain through cheesecloth.
3. Pour into a clean glass jar. Refrigerate.
Original: Take the apples, and without peeling them, grate them and extract
the juice from them, as we said of the quinces; adding a little vinegar, and
white wine, and take the clearest part, and for each pound of juice, put
eight ounces of sugar, and cook it like the juice of the quinces, with the
same spices.
Yield is 2 cups.
This is really easy to make and can be canned using the boiling water
method.
Kiri
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 03:37:39 -0500
From: ranvaig at columbus.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] January 2009 MK Cooks Challenge
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
<<< How are you defining sauce?
How did Rumpolt define sauce?
This sounds like a fascinating project.
Eduardo >>>
Rumpolt only uses the word "Salsen" in the introduction. The various sauces are referenced by name "mit einem s?ssen Pobrat", "in eim schartzen Pfeffer", "mit einem Epffel Gescharb darvnter" without the word sauce. Usually without giving directions for it, but searching the text finds the sauce elsewhere. The references are very common, and Rumpolt seems to assume the reader will know what the sauce is. Like a modern recipe might tell you to add a white sauce without giving a recipe.
When the recipe says "ein Pfeffer" rather than the spice, it means a pepper sauce, made with blood, onions, spices, sugar, sometimes thickened with bread. Usually the food is cooked in the sauce.
Gesharb sauce has either chopped almonds or apples and onions sauteed in butter, mixed with broth or wine, vinegar, raisins, thickened with flour It can be yellow or white, sweet or sour. Food can be cooked with the sauce or the sauce added at serving. Gesharb can mean a shallow pottery dish and the sauce is named after the dish it is served in, or it can mean shards or fragments and may refer to the coarse texture of the sauce.
Pobrat sauce is usually thickened with sugar but sometimes also flour, flavored with spices (saffron, cinnamon, cloves and pepper) and wine, sometimes with stock, sometimes vinegar, and slices of orange or lemon. It can be yellow, black, or grey (but I don't see how you get the colors). It can be sweet or sour. Make it without fat if it is to be served cold. It seems to be something added at plating, rather than cooking the item in it. The Webster's online dictionary says Pobrat is a Czech word meaning "take all", that might or might not be connected.
There are a couple of others, but these were the three mystery sauces.
Ranvaig
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 08:56:18 -0500
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] January 2009 MK Cooks Challenge
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
On Jan 14, 2009, at 3:37 AM, ranvaig at columbus.rr.com wrote:
<<< Pobrat sauce is usually thickened with sugar but sometimes also
flour, flavored with spices (saffron, cinnamon, cloves and pepper)
and wine, sometimes with stock, sometimes vinegar, and slices of
orange or lemon. It can be yellow, black, or grey (but I don't see
how you get the colors). It can be sweet or sour. Make it without
fat if it is to be served cold. It seems to be something added at
plating, rather than cooking the item in it. The Webster's online
dictionary says Pobrat is a Czech word meaning "take all", that
might or might not be connected.
There are a couple of others, but these were the three mystery sauces. >>>
Sauces known variously as Pevorat in English and Poivrade in French
(among other spelling variants) are quite common medieval variations
on pepper sauce. I'd be pretty surprised if it didn't turn out that
those were the source for the name.
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 21:32:55 -0700
From: "Patricia Collum" <pjc2 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Tudor Recipe help
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Tonight I cooked the sauce for supper. It's the sauce that we are planning
to serve with roast turkey at the feast. I served it over boneless chicken
breasts that had been baked in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 mins, and then
sliced. I added the vinegar (Thanks for the suggestion) because the oranges
available at the time were probably sour. I'll look for the seville orange
sauce. It won't be hard as I'm now surrounded by hispanic markets including
being the testmarket for the new Supermercado de Walmart. So far the family
all liked it, it was actually a fairly subtle citrusy flavor.
The original recipe:
Of sauces, and first for a roast capon or turkey
To make an excellant sauce for a roast capon, you shall take onions, and,
having sliced and peeled them boil them in fair water with pepper, salt and
a few bread crumbs: then put unto it a spoonful or two of claret wine, the
juice of an orange, and three or four slices of a lemon peel; all these
shred together, and so pour it upon the capon being broke up. G. Markham-
The English Housewife
My version:
1 medium yellow onion
1 half cup water
2 tablespoons red wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Juice of 1 large orange
zest of one lemon
1 teaspoon unseasoned breadcrumbs
salt and freshground pepper to taste
Peel and cut onion in half lengthwise and then slice thinly crosswise. Cook
onions in water on medium heat until just softened. Meanwhile mix wine,
vinegar, orange juice and zest together in a bowl. When the onions are
softened add the orange juice mixture and breadcrumbs. Stir and bring to a
boil and then reduce heat and simmer for 20 mins. Add salt and pepper to
taste and serve warm over sliced roast turkey or chicken. Serves 4.
Cecily
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:14:37 -0700
From: David Walddon <david at vastrepast.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Drizzle of Honey
Do you mean this one? French fashion (that is why I remembered Varenne) but
it is from Robert May.
To Boil a Capon or chicken with Colliflowers in the French Fashion. (page
85)
Cut off the buds of your flowers, and boil them in milk with a little mace
till they be very tender ; then take the yols of 2 eggs, strain them with a
quarter of a pint of sack, then take as much thick butter, being drawn with
a little vinegar and a slic?t lemon, brew them together ; then take the
flowers out of the milk, and put them into the butter and sack : then dish
up your Capon, being tender boil?d, upon sippets finely carved, and pour on
the sauce, and serve it to the Table with a little salt.
Eduardo
David Walddon wrote:
<<< I think the chicken (or capon) and/or cauliflower in butter sauce is from La Varenne. >>>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 12:28:27 +1300
From: Antonia Calvo <ladyadele at paradise.net.nz>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Drizzle of Honey
David Walddon wrote:
<<< Do you mean this one? French fashion (that is why I remembered Varenne) but it is from Robert May.
To Boil a Capon or chicken with Colliflowers in the French Fashion. (page 85)
Cut off the buds of your flowers, and boil them in milk with a little mace
till they be very tender ; then take the yols of 2 eggs, strain them with a
quarter of a pint of sack, then take as much thick butter, being drawn with
a little vinegar and a slic?t lemon, brew them together ; then take the
flowers out of the milk, and put them into the butter and sack : then dish
up your Capon, being tender boil?d, upon sippets finely carved, and pour on
the sauce, and serve it to the Table with a little salt. >>>
Yes, that is the very one! Thank you.
I don't remember exactly how I redacted it, but if you cook the egg
yolks and sherry/sack carefully over low heat, adding the butter and
vinegar and whisking as you go, you get something that is thickish,
emulsified and somewhat hollandaise-like.
--
Antonia di Benedetto Calvo
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:47:31 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] emulsifications
On Oct 29, 2009, at 11:35 PM, Stefan li Rous wrote:
<<< Gravies are emulisified sauces, right? >>>
Not usually.
Gravies are usually thickened with something starchy (flour, starch,
etc.)
Emulsified sauces are emulsions; mixtures of liquids that ordinarily
don't want to mix, like oil and water, say, which, when mixed
properly, thicken due to surface electrostatic charges on droplets.
Emulsions / emulsified sauces include thick vinaigrettes, some honey
mustards with some oil beaten into them to lighten their texture and
flavor, mayonnaise, Miracle Whip, Hollandaise Sauce, Bearnaise Sauce,
Beurre Blanc, Beurre Rouge, and even properly melted chocolate.
<<< Is this Mayonnaise-like sauce a roux? Perhaps I should have named
this file [gravy-msg] around roux(s) or emulsions. What *is* the plural of "roux"? >>>
Roux is a preparation, almost a verb. There is no plural, except as
multiple examples of the technique. It's kind of like, what's the
plural of photography? You can have more than one batch of roux, or
more than one use, but roux is roux.
More simply, the plural of roux is roux.
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:13:28 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] emulsifications
On Oct 30, 2009, at 6:47 AM, Johnna Holloway wrote:
<<< Playing librarian, I'd suggest taking a look at
Harold McGee's latest edition of On Food and Cooking.
He includes a chapter on sauces.
Or there is an excellent James Peterson volume titled
Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making.
It's out in a revised edition from 2008. The original 1991 edition
won all sorts of awards. The new edition has an addition 150 pages and more recipes. >>>
My fave is still Raymond Sokolov's "The Saucier's Apprentice"...
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 06:38:06 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sauces was Drizzle of Honey
Harold McGee in his latest edition of On Food and Cooking
mentions a couple of the La Varenne and Pierre de Lune as
"hollandaise like."
For La Varenne it's the Asparagus in Fragrant Sauce.
For Pierre de Lune it's the Trout in Court Bouillon and Perches in
Butter Blanc.
See page 585 for the recipes in McGee.
Johnnae
On Oct 29, 2009, at 6:33 PM, David Walddon wrote:
I think the chicken (or capon) and/or cauliflower in butter sauce is
from La Varenne.
Eduardo
On 10/29/09 12:40 PM, "Antonia Calvo" <ladyadele at paradise.net.nz>
wrote:
Although, interestingly enough, there are a couple of recipes from
the Elizibethan corpus that come out not unlike Hollandaise...
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 23:31:32 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Non-SCA food passions?
On Jun 18, 2010, at 8:28 PM, Honour Horne-Jaruk wrote:
<<< Otherwise, it's figuring out how to make a halfway tolerable dairy-free white sauce. So far, I've got one that tastes food-like when mixed half-and-half with mayonnaise: but then, I suspect Louisiana gulf water might taste food-like under the same conditions... >>>
Somewhere... I think it's in multiple sources, but I suspect Taillevent might be the more comprehensive of them... there is a recipe for leeks in a thick almond milk that is surprisingly like the typical creamed onions that turn up on American tables on chilly holidays...
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 10:28:00 -0400
From: Sandra Kisner <sjk3 at cornell.edu>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] sauces and humoral theory [OOP]
There's a decidedly interesting post at The Old Foodie today about which
sauces are appropriate for which meats, though she's discussing the 17th
century. Quite a list of herbs for sauces humorally hot or cold.
http://www.theoldfoodie.com/2010/09/sauces-galore.html
Sandra
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2010 15:02:33 +0000 (GMT)
From: emilio szabo <emilio_szabo at yahoo.it>
To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
Subject: [Sca-cooks] 'take wine or vinegar', was: Cinnamon ...
<< The alternative wine/vinegar is current in humoral theory and dietetics. The choice of wine or vinegar depends on season in the first place. >>
< Where would that substitution be justified? >
The author is Magninus Mediolanensis (14th century, his work was printed in the 15th century, there are manuscript sources). I quote some passages from Scully:
"The liquid base for the green sauce is regular vinegar in summer and a weaker vinegar or wine in winter. [footnote 21] Generally speaking a cook chose among half a dozen liquids to form a base for a sauce. In his preambles in both the 'Opusculum' and Chapter xx of the 'Regimen', Magninus is quite explicit in stating which liquid ingredients may be employed in sauces. These ingredients vary according to the season of the year because of the general principle that in warm weather food is healthier if relatively cool in nature, whereas in cold weather food should be warmer. [footnote 22] .... In summer the 'materiae' for sauces are verjuice, lime or lemon juice, vinegar, fresh elderberry juice, vine-shoot juice, pomegranate wine, [footnote 23] .... In winter, [footnote 25] permissible 'materiae' include mustard, rocket ... wine, meat broth and a weak vinegar which is close to the nature of wine (that is, warmer than normal vinegar). Vinegar is chosen here as a base for the green sauce because verjuice, the usual alternative, would make the sauce too cold [footnote 26] for winter consumption and would detract from the desired warming effect of the finished sauce upon its meat. Magninus does, however, supply seasonal variations: ...".
Source: Terence Scully in Medium Aevum 1985, page 183.
As I am somewhat too lazy at the moment to key in the whole text you might want to have a look at the commentary of Scully on the Opusculum de saporibus and at the other works of Scully.
E.
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 17:39:49 -0500
From: Elaine Koogler <kiridono at gmail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] yoghurt sauce
<<< I've tried making that yoghurt and dill/cucumber sauce used in gyros and
tzatziki, but it always comes out bland, for my taste...anyone have a
really, I don't know, tangy version?
--
Ian of Oertha >>>
If you can find goats milk yoghurt, you'll find that it's LOT more tangy! I
do make a dip that's not actually tsaziki but is very good:
3/4 cup labineh or drained yogurt
3/4 teaspoon dried mint flakes, crushed
3/4 tablespoon celery leaves, finely chopped
1 5/8 tablespoons leek, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon light yellow mustard powder
1/4 teaspoon nigella seed
1 5/8 tablespoons walnuts, ground
4 loaves pita
1. Mince mint, leek and celery, put them into a mortar or food processor and
pulse several times
2. Turn the greens out onto a paper towel and press (this prevents the
yogurt from becoming to watery)
3. Combine herbs and cheese. Add salt and mustard and mix well.
4. Cover and refrigerate. Let rest for at least 1 hour.
5. Remove from frig, put in a colorful bowl, sprinkle with walnuts and
nigella seed.
6. Serve with pita or other ME flat bread.
Servings: 8
Notes: Take mint, celery leaves and vegetable leeks and strip them all fro
their stalks and cut them up finely with a knife. throw them in the ortar,
and when they release liquid after pounding, dry the off. Then mix them
well with shiraz (horgurt drained of its whey). throw a little salt on it,
as muhc as it will bear and mustard pounded fine and moderate its flavor
with the mustard. Put it in a vessel and strew its surface with a little
nigella. If you like, put yoghurt called mast and drain it in a skirt of
the water which is in it, and mix it with the mentioned herbs. If you like,
make it sour, throw in a little Persian yoghurt. It comes out excellently.
Source: Description of Familiar Foods (Mediieval Arab Cookery Book
This was redacted by Dame Hauviette d'Anjou.
Kiri
Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:55:38 +1200
From: Antonia di B C <dama.antonia at gmail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] period hard sauce?
On 12/05/2011 8:29 AM, Stefan li Rous wrote:
<<< Sprinkle with confectioners sugar or serve with hard sauce. >>>
I'm assuming "hard sauce" means a sweet sauce which contains a
distilled alcohol of some type.
Do we know of any "hard sauces" in period? It seems unlikely since we
seem to have a hard time documenting cordials and distilled alcoholic
beverages other than as medicinals, although admittedly the line
between just food/drink and medicinals is blurry.
==================
Hard sauce is basically butter with brandy or whiskey and powdered sugar
beaten into it. AFAIK, it isn't period.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_sauce
--
Antonia di Benedetto Calvo
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 17:52:14 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] op
On Jun 19, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Ian Kusz wrote:
<<< anyone know a good book on sauces? adobo, indian, chinese, etc.? gravies,
variety? Ian of Oertha >>>
You didn't specify an era so how about this classic one s listed on Professor Martha Carlin's website:
Thorndike, L.: A medieval sauce-book. In: Speculum 9 (1934) 183-190. or try
Magninus Mediolanensis, Opusculum de saporibus (Latin, c. early 1330s) A collection of sauce recipes by Maino de' Maineri of Milan, lecturer at the medical school at Paris, which forms part of the author's dietetic treatise, Regimen sanitatis. Edited by Lynn Thorndike (1934) from Naples, Biblioteca Nazionale, MS VIII. D. 35, ff. 52rb-53va.
Modern ---
Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making (9780470194966) by James Peterson.
The third edition is 2008. (you might look for an earlier edition to save money.)
Check Amazon for a full write-up with recipes.
Or see Wiley here: http://www.wiley.com/WileyCDA/WileyTitle/productCd-0470194960.html
Johnnae
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 16:54:40 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at att.net>
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] op
Peterson, James, Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making --2nd
edition, John Wiley and Sons, 1998.
I have both the 1st and 2nd editions. You want the 2nd. It is the best
single reference on sauce making I have seen.
Bear
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 18:33:20 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] op
On Jun 19, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Terry Decker wrote:
<<< I hadn't spotted the 3rd edition. Do you know if this is an upgrade of the 2nd edition or just a reissue with no or cursory editting?.
Bear
Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making (9780470194966) by James Peterson. The third edition is 2008. (you might look for an earlier edition to save money.)
Johnnae >>>
I own all of them. Each volume has been different from the previous one, improved, longer, more pages, more recipes. This edition had color photos.
Wiley notes
Peterson overhauls the text by simplifying the book without taking out anything critical. Many of the sauces are lightened and the old French names are dispensed with or relegated to a separate section. Many of the sauces in the current book are in chart form since the procedure is identical for large numbers of them, and there is a chapter that has all the charts for easy reference. The author also standardizes the terminology for the consistency of liquids (for instance, in the Liaisons chapter, a chart showing thicknesses ranges from "water" to "mayonnaise") because it is the consistency that's most important (and the hardest) to show. An updated bibliography and source list of purveyors is also included. The photos are redone to be included in a bigger insert with fewer images since the photos in the current book are too small for anyone to really appreciate the details. The technique photographs are larger and focus on the essential steps that a reader cannot visualize based on the narrative instruction. Also, there are more color photos in this edition with an emphasis on how-to and cooking techniques (since many of the sauces are derivatives of techniques like braising, sauteing, poaching, etc.).
http://www.wiley.com/WileyCDA/WileyTitle/productCd-0470194960.html
Sample chapters are on the website.
It's used as a textbook so I would guess this is a way to keep sales up. {Yes, you must use the 3rd edition and not the 1st edition sort of thing.)
Johnnae
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:21:46 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcarrollmann at gmail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 10:18 AM, David Walddon <david at vastrepast.com>wrote:
<<< There are a lots of recipes for horseradish preparations and sauces in the
German Corpus.
Eduardo >>>
There's a Spanish honey-horseradish sauce in de Nola.
Brighid ni Chiarain
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:23:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Euriol of Lothian <euriol at yahoo.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
<<< My own instinct - but in no way meant to be a hard and fast line - is to?
distinguish between what's preprepared and made for a particular dish.
'Worcestershire sauce' is a condiment to me. But to be honest I've never really?
thought the whole thing through before.
Jim? Chevallier >>>
Many of the sauces I see in the various manuscripts that are stand alone recipes are meant for a variety of pairings. There are various factors, largely based on the humoral theory, which would have a cook decide on a particular pairing.
I guess in my opinion, it does not matter if you call it a sauce or a condiment, it is both, for those sauces that can be treated as both.
Euriol
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 14:00:20 -0500
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
Our Concordance of English Recipes: Thirteenth Through Fifteenth Centuries ( MRTS 2006) lists nearly
7 pages of sauces at roughly 28 entries per page. That would make nearly 200 English recipes indexed under sauces for just those centuries.
No one has mentioned one of our original articles on the topic.
A Mediaeval Sauce-Book is up on JSTOR and can be read either through your institutional access or by registering.
Lynn Thorndike
Speculum
Vol. 9, No. 2 (Apr., 1934), pp. 183-190
Published by: Medieval Academy of America
Article Stable URL:http://www.jstor.org/stable/2846594
Johnnae
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:01:19 -0800
From: David Walddon <david at vastrepast.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
I still think you have not defined "sauce".
Do you mean something that is poured over meat?
Something that is served with meat?
Something that is meat is cooked in?
In the Italian corpus (from the early and late periods) mustard is referred to as a sauce.
Modern condiments could be considered a sauce depending on your definition.
Is ketchup a sauce or a condiment?
And the word sauce could change in definition depending on where and when we are talking about.
Also is there a medieval definition of sauce?
Mustard is also used as a flavoring in several "sauces" in Martino (check out the sauce for Pesce Cane where both Agliata and Mustard are used to create an entirely different "sauce" for dog fish).
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 7:39 AM, JIMCHEVAL at aol.com wrote:
<<< On mustard, I had in mind the medieval use. In France, I've mainly seen it
as a condiment. Taillevent does say to eat dish "with mustard" which I take
to mean the condiment but could arguably refer to a sauce. And the more
corrupt version of his work includes a sauce for garlic with mustard and a
mustard soup. But no recipe for a mustard sauce.
But clearly I don't know the German side at all well. So there might be
one there. The horseradish references sound interesting.
Jim Chevallier >>>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 14:15:38 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcarrollmann at gmail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
The translation and redaction for horseradish-honey sauce are on my
(long-neglected) website:
http://breadbaker.tripod.com/sauces.html
The recipe does not say what the sauce is served with.
Brighid ni Chiarain
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 1:55 PM, David Walddon <david at vastrepast.com> wrote:
<<< That sounds great!
Can you post the transcription or translation?
Does it say what it is served on/with?
Eduardo >>>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 14:49:23 -0500
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] definitions was Surviving medieval sauces?
Sauce in OED 3rd is defined as:
"Any preparation, usually liquid or soft, and often consisting of several ingredients, intended to be eaten as an appetizing accompaniment to some article of food. Formerly occas. applied to a condiment of any kind.
Often with qualifying word denoting the predominant ingredient, as bread sauce, egg sauce, mint sauce, parsley sauce, or with qualifying adj., as black sauce, brown sauce, hard sauce, white sauce. Also (15th c.) in many adopted French terms, as sauce cameline, sauce galantine, sauce gansell, etc.: see Two Cookery-bks. 77 (c1450?110) and 108 (c1430).
Quotations go back to at least 1375.
Medieval forms being ME sawse, Sc. salss, ME?17 sawce, sause, ME saus, sace
Condiment goes back to 1420.
Anything of pronounced flavour used to season or give relish to food, or to stimulate the appetite.
(Some medical writers class tea, coffee, alcoholic drinks, as condiments; but they are not ordinarily so called.)
c1420 Pallad. on Husb. xi. 503 This condyment is esy and jocounde.
ibid. xii. 351 This moone is made olyve in condiment.
Rarely condiment was also
trans. To season or flavour with a condiment; to spice. And the source there for the quotation is c1420 Pallad. on Husb.
xi. 525 Use this ferment For musty brede, whom this wol condiment.
The MED or Middle English Dictionary just muddles the waters and declares the following:
sauce (n.) Also saus(e, salse, (?errors) sauche, sauu3; pl. sauces, etc. & (error) sawes. [OF sausse, sause, sauce, salse & ML salsa, AL salsea.]
(a) A condiment for meat, fish, fowl, etc., a sauce; also, a pickling liquid, brine; (b) fig. of (a); (c) a curative or preventive preparation; a medicinal sauce; (d) cook. in combs.: ~ blaunk (gamelin, ma-dame, neiger, noir, sarasin, sauge), blaunk (sobre) ~; for other varieties see camelin adj., galauntine n., gingivere n.(c), grene adj.1.(d), verge adj., etc.; (e) in cpds.:~ al-one, common alliaria (Alliaria officinalis), garlic mustard; ~ makere, a maker of condiments; also, mistransl. of OF sans?e [quot.: c1440]; also as surname; ~ makere-craft, guild of condiment makers.
http://quod.lib.umich.edu/cgi/m/mec/med-idx?type=id&;id=MED38564
Johnnae
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:59:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Euriol of Lothian <euriol at yahoo.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
Condiment was in use in the medieval period along with sauce.
You can see the evidence in works like?A Middle-English Dictionary: Containing Words Used by English Writers from the Twelfth to the Fifteenth Century. Also if you look at some of the original manuscripts which discuss sauces.
Specific examples I can share are from??Ein B?ch von G?ter Speise,?14th?century?
"Ein condimente
Mal ku?mel vnd enys mit pfeffer vnd mit essige vnd mit honige vnd machs gel mit saffran vnd thu darzcu senff In disem condimente machtu sulcze petersilien Piren vnd clein kumpost oder ruben was du wilt."
Libellus de Arte Coquinaria?a comparative analysis of 4 manuscripts, dating from the 13th?century, collection of 35 recipes in three languages... Danish, Icelandic, & Low German.
Quomodo temperetur salsum dominorum et quamdiu durat.
Man skal tak? g?rf?rs naghl?, oc Muscat, cardemomum, pip?r, cinamomum th?t ?r kani?l, oc ingif?r, all? i?fn w?ghn?, tho swa at kani?l ?r ?m myk?t sum all? hin? andr?; oc slyk tu stekt br?th sum all? hin? andr?, oc st?t? them all? sam?, oc mal? m?th st?k ?dyk? oc lat? I en l?gh?l. Th?t ?r h?rr? sals?, oc ?r goth et halft aar.
Cookery Book II Harleian MS. 4016, ab. 1450 A.D?
Sauce gamelyne. :?Take faire brede, and kutte it, and take vinegre and wyne, & stepe the brede therein. and drawe hit thorgh a streynour with powder of canel, and drawe hit twies or thries til hit be smoth; and then take pouder of ginger, Sugur, and pouder of cloues, and cast thereto a lilul saffron and lege hig be thik ynogh, and thenne serue hit forthe.
Libre Del Coch, Mestre Robert, cook to ?don Ferrando de Napols? Catalan, 15th?century.
Sal?ero para Perdius o Gallines en Ast
Ametles belles e blanques pendr?s e picar-les has b? en un morter. E quant sien ben picades, destempra-les ab suc de magranes agres. E apr?s met in lo morter sucre polvorizat, canyella e gingembre, perqu? la sua color e sabor vol tirar casi canyella. E no la cal passar per nengun ced??. E vet as? tot fet.
I think this clearly shows the use of the terms in a variety of the European areas of the time period.
Euriol
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 19:09:40 -0500 (EST)
From: JIMCHEVAL at aol.com
To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
True, but they are not made to store up and use over time like mustard (and
possibly horseradish). My impression is that they are made in association
with preparing a meal.
"To Make Poitevin Sauce
With capons or poultry, roast them well on the spit. Take their livers,
and a little browned bread and very little broth, and crush up spices in a
mortar - cinnamon, ginger, assorted spices - and soak in verjuice and wine.
Bring to a boil, and put in the poultry."
"Saupiquet
To make saupiquet sauce on rabbit or another roast, brown bread as for
cameline, and put it to soak in broth. Melt some lard in a frying pan and chop
an onion up small, and fry it. For four servings, take two ounces of true
cinnamon, half an ounce of ginger and a quarter of an ounce of assorted
spices. Take red wine and vinegar. Strain the bread and all the spices
together. Boil in a frying pan or a pot, and then put over the roast."
Jim Chevallier
www.chezjim.com
In a message dated 2/17/2014 3:56:58 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
prescotj at telusplanet.net writes:
<<< In Viander and Menagier, for example, the sauces are clearly prepared
and served separately, and not cooked with the food. >>>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 16:44:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Euriol of Lothian <euriol at yahoo.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
Some can be stored up over time, some not. I've made a number of the sauces that could keep for weeks. It's just a matter of knowing which ones can and can't.
Euriol
From: "JIMCHEVAL at aol.com" <JIMCHEVAL at aol.com>
<<< True, but they are not made to store up and use over time like mustard (and possibly horseradish). My impression is that they are made in association with preparing a meal. >>>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:04:05 -0700
From: James Prescott <prescotj at telusplanet.net>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
Snippets from Viandier (Power translation since I have that to hand):
"... a duckling, two spring chickens and sauce thereto; oranges,
cameline, verjuice ..." p 238. Note that the cameline [sauce] is
mentioned entirely separately from any of the meats with which it might
be eaten.
For the same wedding feast, "From the saucemaker, three half pints of
cameline for dinner and supper and a quart of sorrel verjuice." The
saucemaker was not associated with the household, but was a maker/seller
who presumably had a shop somewhere. p 241
For the same wedding feast, "... two earthenware pots ... the other of
two quarts for the cameline." indicating that the cameline did not come
from the saucemaker in a serving pot, but that a pot was purchased
separately. p 242
For a different wedding, "From the sauce-maker, a quart of cameline for
the dinner and for the supper two quarts of mustard." Clearly cameline
and mustard sauces. The sauce maker may have had more than just these
two kinds or sauce for sale. p 246
The Cold Sage [Sauce] on p 277 is made using the chicken stock, and is
poured over the chicken before serving, so this is an example of a sauce
that is prepared directly in association with the dish.
Irrelevant but interesting: "Note that nutmegs, mace and galingale make
the head to ache." p 292
Thorvald
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 19:49:50 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: <lilinah at earthlink.net>
To: SCA-Cooks <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
First, it seems to me that Chimichurri, which is Argentine and enjoying some popularity outside Argentina, is an off-shoot of medieval Green Sauce. Basic Chimichurri is made from finely chopped fresh parsley and oregano, garlic, olive oil, and wine vinegar.:
http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/misc/GreenSauce-Survey.html
As for Horseradish Sauce, I made two different ones for two different feasts. One was the Honey-Horseradish Sauce from Nola, which Brighid translated:
http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/2000_Boar_Hunt/2000-2nd.html#horseradish
The other was for a German feast, from Master Eberhard:
http://home.earthlink.net/~al-tabbakhah/2001_Feasts/2001-Boar_Hunt/2001-3rd.html#horseradish
Both were served with roast pork.
Finally, there are a number of medieval mustards that i would count among the sauces. After all, Cameline Sauce is not a loose liquid that is poured over the meat, but something of a thick dip, and yet it is recognized as a "sauce". And all the period mustards I've made, from the European corpus, the Arabic language corpus, and mid-15th c. Ottoman (one of which is made with powdered mustard seed and yogurt), are much thinner and more pourable than almost every Cameline I've had. They may have been made a day or so ahead of time - as were the Horseradish Sauces - but they were made in consideration of what would be subsequently served. And there are quite a few recipes for Mustard Sauce today.
Urtatim (that's oor-tah-TEEM)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 01:31:01 -0500
From: Sharon Palmer <ranvaig at columbus.rr.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Surviving medieval sauces?
<<< True, but they are not made to store up and use over time like mustard (and
possibly horseradish). My impression is that they are made in association
with preparing a meal. >>>
Rumpolt has direction for making cherry sauce and verjuice that can
be stored for a year. There is a recipe for eel in pepper sauce that
can be stored. Also pickled sturgeon, salted mushrooms, salted
cucumbers, and various fruit confects. On the other hand he doesn't
mention storing mustard or horseradish.
And in case anyone needs the reference Max Rumpolt, Ein New
Kochbuch, 1581, Maintz.
http://diglib.hab.de/wdb.php?dir=drucke/2-3-oec-2f
Ranvaig
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 21:48:20 +1030
From: "Claire Clarke" <angharad at adam.com.au>
To: <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] green sauces
Jim Chevallier said:
<<< Still, green sauce it was and probably not much different from what was
made in the fourteenth century. >>>
Stefan replied
<<< I'm not sure I would say that. While green sauces are going to be a green
color and have an herb/plant/veggie taste, I would think they very quite a
lot depending upon what they are made of.
At least here in the southwest US many green sauces include peppers, which
were mostly unknown in Europe until well past the 14th century. They're also
usually much spicier than what I think of as medieval green sauces.
Stefan
--------
I would agree with Stefan. In the modern(ish) English cookery tradition
green sauce is a white sauce (ie butter, flour, milk) with parsley (and
maybe other herbs) in it, which is quite a different thing from the
mediaeval green sauce.
Angharad
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 20:53:34 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: <lilinah at earthlink.net>
To: SCA-Cooks <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] sour apple sauce
Ranvaig commented:
Apples are a very common ingredient in Rumpolt.
An apple sauce described as sour, has vinegar
added.
Stefan li Rous wrote:
I don't think I've ever had a "sour" apple sauce. I'm not sure whether I like the idea or not.
First, think of it as a sauce, not like modern "apple sauce". Rather than a sweet fruit puree to be eaten by itself, it's meant to be served with meat. It would be like any tangy sauce in that sense. I haven't seen the recipe, if there is one, in Rumpolt. But the Spanish apple sauce is made from apple juice, and i suspect that German one is as well.
Urtatim (that's oor-tah-TEEM)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2015 10:30:26 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at att.net>
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Cant Remember Recipe
<<< It's been while, got an issue that's driving me nuts. I'm vaguely
remembering a Tudor/Elizabethan or maybe even Jacobean recipe for a
Honey (and either lemon or Orange) glaze over Roasted birds (chicken I
think). Cannot find the recipe in any of my usual spots.
Anyone have an idea?
Drakey. >>>
I don't remember ever seeing such a recipe, but there are a few orange
sauces to serve with birds here and there in late period recipe collections
(I generally use Martino's when I'm not after a specific time and locale).
I have prepared the dish from the following recipe, which was well received
at the Elizabethan feast I was preparing.
Bear
To boyle a Capon with Orenges after Mistres Duffelds Way.
Take a Capon and boyle it with Veale, or with good marie
bone, or what your fancy is. Then take a good quantitie of
that broth, and put it in an earthen pot by it selfe, and put
thereto a good handfull of Currans, and as manie prunes,
and a few whole maces, and some Marie, and put to this
broth a good quantitiie of white Wine or of Calarret, and so
let them seeth softlye together; Then take your Orenges,
and with a knife scrape off oll of the filthinesse of the
outside of them. Then cut them in the middest, and wring
out the juyce of three or four of them, put the juyce into
the broth with the rest of your stuffe. Then slice your
Orenges thinne and have uppon the fire readie a skillet of
faire seething water, and put your slice Orenges into the
water and when that water is bitter, have more readie, and
so change them still as long as you can find the great
bitternesse in the water, which will be five or seven times,
or more. If you find need: then take them from the water,
and let that runne cleane from them: then put close
orenges into your potte with your broth, and so let them
stew together till your Capon be readie. Then make your
sops with this broth, and cast on a little Sinamon, Ginger,
and Sugar, and upon this lay your Capon, and some of
your Orenges upon it, and some of your Marie, and toward
the end of the boyling of your broth, put in a little
Vergious, if you think best.
The Good Huswives Handmaid, 1588
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2017 18:20:58 -0600
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at att.net>
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Concerning Ryori Monogatari
For anyone seriously interested in the history of soy sauce, here is the URL of what is probably the most thorough treatise on the subject:
https://archive.org/stream/bub_gb_-M5t2nXIXi4C#page/n19/mode/2up
Bear
<the end>