sauces-msg – 2/14/08
Period sauces. Sauce recipes.
NOTE: See also the files: aspic-msg, fruits-msg, broths-msg, eggs-msg, dairy-prod-msg, almond-milk-msg, vinegar-msg, verjuice-msg, garum-msg, mustard-msg, Mustard-art.
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NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: NRMOLL00 at ukcc.UKy.EDU (Nancy R. Mollette)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Garlic sauce at last
Date: 15 Dec 1993 18:30:41 -0500
This recipe is a translation from a 16th century Italian text:
_Libro novo nel qual s'insegna a far d'ogni sorte di vivande secondo
la diversita de i tempi, cosi di carne come di pesca_ <sorry, no accent
marks on this keyboard> by Cristoforo di Messibugo.
Translation and redaction by Basilicus Phocas, a Dragonsmark cook and
sometime fighter, MKA Charles Potter.
Agliata (Garlic sauce)
8 oz walnuts (shelled) or almonds (shelled and skinned)
4 slices of white bread
2-4 large cloves of garlic, peeled
1 1/2 (one and one half) cups of strong chicken stock
1 tsp salt
Remove the crust from the bread slices. Soak the bread in the chicken stock
for 20 minutes in a crockery bowl.
Place the nuts and garlic in a stone mortar and grind very fine with a wooden
pestle, then transfer to the bowl containing the bread and broth. Add salt and
stir continuously with a wooden spoon for 2 or 3 minutes. Taste for salt. Cover
the bowl and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Serve the sauce in a sauce
boat. Agliata may also be made by placing all the ingredients together in a
blender or food processor. This is very good over rice mixed with butter.
Yours in Service,
Anna of Dragonsmark
Nancy R. Mollette nrmoll00 at ukcc.uky.edu Your disclaimer here.
From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com>
To: sca-cooks at eden.com
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 12:16:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Saracen Sauce
Sue Wensel wrote:
> What are the ingredients of your Saracen Sauce?
>
> Derdriu
Blanched (presumably peeled) almonds, toasted in olive oil until light
brown, cooled, and ground into fairly fine meal. Rose hips are an
optional addition, they would make the dish more tart than it would be
without them. This is then either "drawn up" with hot almond milk, capon
broth, red wine, or some combination thereof. It should be quite thick,
and if it isn't thick enough, you can thicken it with rice flour. It
should be red in color, traditionally alkanet is the standard coloring,
but I'm not certain I'd use anything but standard red vegetable
coloring, unless perhaps I used a bit of powdered red sandalwood, which
is also a bit iffy. Standard garnish are a sprinkling of pomegranite
cells, berries, seeds, etc (whatever you call them).
I don't have a modern redaction at hand, but could probably produce one
pretty easily...
Hopeful regards,
G. Tacitus Adamantius
From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com>
To: sca-cooks at eden.com
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:18:42 -0400
Subject: sca-cooks Re: Garlic
Mark Harris wrote:
> Ok. Now I'm not sure what a "jance" is, but I like Garlic.
A jance is any of a variety of French ginger based sauces, usually, but
not, I think, always made with milk. They are similar to a modern white
sauce except for a thickening of bread and/or egg yolks instead of
flour, and always contain plenty of ginger. A yellow jance contains some
saffron, a green jance parsley, and garlic jance, well, use your
imagination. You find recipes for them in the Viandier de Taillevent,
and probably also in Le Menagier de Paris.
> Stefan li Rous
Adamantius
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:25:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: SC - Re: sauces
> My daughter had Roast Beef
> with a pepper sauce at a Renn Fair and loved, but can't find the pepper
> sauce recipie.
Sauce Alepeuere (Ashmole Ms. 1429, Harl. 4016, etc.)
"Take fayre broun brede, toste hit, and stepe it in vinegre, and drawe
it thurwe a straynour; and put ther-to garleke smal y-stampyd, poudre
piper, salt, & serue forth"
I need to ask my wife's permission before posting her redaction, but
she's served this with roast beef, venison, etc. at several feasts to
rave reviews. We usually pronounce it "Sauce Aliper" or, for the still
less linguistically adventurous, "Garlic Pepper Sauce".
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/
Math/CS Dept, Adelphi University
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:29:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido at aol.com
Subject: SC - sauces-longish
<< salmon is
> tempered with sauce cameline....but are there not more flavorful things than
> cinnamon to put onto salmon? >>
There are several approaches to the sauce "problem". The one I use is to make
my sauces vrey potent so to speak. In several attempts at doing period sauces
I have found that the more concentrated they are the better they are. (e.g.
the concentration of modern worchestershire or oyster sauce or catsup, etc.
I think sometimes as SCA cooks we tend to mistakenly associate the word sauce
with gravy and try to come up with something that can be "ladled" over the
dish instead of , IMO, more correctly spooned over it.
To support this theory, I would suggest you redact and try one of the fish
recipes from Apicius. When I did this I thought YUCK! but after actually making
the dish, the sauce turned out to be excellent and the serving size was
approximately 1 tblsp. per portion. My mouth waters just thinking about it.
Keeping in mind that modern sauces such as catsup contain things we wouldn't
think appropriate (e.g. cinnamon, cloves, vinegar, etc.) or the anchovies
and citrus fruits in Worchestershire, the long slow cooking necessary for a
good sauce blends and reformulates the original raw flavors into a single
amalgamated whole. Try it you might like it. :-)
Lord Ras
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 03:30:44 -0500
From: gfrose at cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter)
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #209
Hi, Katerine here.
Anna of Dragonsmark asks whether, given that medieval sauces were designed to
balance the humors of the meats, we should be devising new sauces better to
suit current materials.
I believe not, for two reasons. First, I'm not at all certain that I grant
the premise. I know that Scully has a bee in his bonnet on this subject,
but other scholars by no means universally agree. Certainly there are tracts
from the middle ages that argue for this -- Magninus Mediolanensis is an
example -- but there's no evidence for it in the *culinary* literature, and
it isn't clear that the medical literature isn't rationalizing practice as
opposed to guiding it. Further, the repertoire of sauces is stable with
respect to names and general natures of sauces -- though not at all with
respect to their details -- over a period of two centuries; and the changes
do not reflect changes in the theory of the humors nearly so much as those
we see throughout the cuisine as a whole.
Second, I'd rather use the medieval main ingredient, or as close an analog
as we can find, at which point rebalancing makes little sense. I think, in
a sense, the quesion whether cinnamon is the most tasty spice to put on salmon
gives the show away: the desire is to have a different sauce for *flavor*, not
for any medieval reason. In that case, I'd be far more inclined to go with a
different *medieval* sauce. There are many suggestions of sauces to go with
fish; I would be far more inclined to find a medieval sauce I liked, and use
it.
So I don't think there's any rational argument that altering sauces for more
flavorful ingredients according to modern prejudices is a medieval practice.
Sauces *did* evolve -- but not randomly. If one wanted to study in detail the
patterns by which specific spices augmented or replaced others, and then
reproduce those patterns, that would be a medieval practice. But I've been
engaged in a detailed study intended to reveal that kind of pattern for
over five years, and I don't think I could begin to do it competantly. It
takes a *great* deal of work; without doing that work, you're just making a
modern sauce, and presenting it as medieval. I don't think that's appropriate.
To be clearer: one can, of course, serve whatever tasty food one likes. If
one wants to serve modern created dishes because one knows them, and does not
know medieval dishes one would rather serve, well and good. That, in itself,
is perfectly reasonable, though it is not what I would prefer to see. But
I think we have a responsibility not to try to rationalize it, or "pretty"
it over for SCA consumption, but claiming that it is in any way a
reflection of medieval practice. It's a deliberate move away from medieval
cuisine, based on a personal preference.
I don't think there's any moral imperative to stick to the medieval repertoire
(although I prefer to do so, and prefer meals where others have, provided that
they've also done the cooking well). I *do* think there's a moral imperative
to be honest about what we do. If we choose to be modern, we should be
honestly and openly modern. Anything else is both miseducating and lying.
Cheers,
- -- Katerine/Terry
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - sauces-longish
Noemi writes:
> Out of curiousity, and clarification, is a sauce something that is added to a
> dish just prior to serving? I was thinking of things like, for lack of a
> better and period example, things like a paprikas where it definitely has a
> sauce, but it is what the dish was cooked in as well.
At least for roast meats, a sauce was often added to a dish NOT prior
to serving, but by the diners themselves. Sorta like ketchup in a
modern restaurant. (Katerine, can you confirm this for me?)
It can work very nicely to serve a single big hunk of meat with three
or four different sauces on the side: it allows the diners to try a
couple of different flavors, and takes less work than preparing four
different dishes.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:16:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido at aol.com
Subject: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
<< I would love for someone to print a proper recipe and to note whether or
not the basic chutney is period. >>
Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
:-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
COMPOST
FC 103
Take rote of parsel, of pasternak, rafens, scrape hem and waische hem clene.
Take rapes & caboches, ypared and icorue. Take an erthen panne with clene
water & set it on the fire; cast all (th)ise (th)erinne. When (th)ey buth
boiled cast (th)erto peeres, & perboile hem wel. Take alle (th)ise thynges vp
& lat it kele on a faire cloth. Do (th)erto salt; whan it is colde, do hit in
a vessel; take vinegar & powdour & safroun & and do (th)erto, & lat alle
(th)ise thynges lye (th)erin al ny(gh)t, o(th)er al day. Take wyne greke &
honey, clarified togider; take lumbarde mustard & raisouns coraunce, al
hoole, & gynde powdour of canel, powdour douce, anys hole, & fenell seed.
Take alle (th)ise thynges & castt togyder in a pot of erthe, & take (th)erof
whan (th)oui wilt & serue forth.
There is a redaction in 'Pleyn Delit which, IMHO, deviates away from the
original in very significant ways so I am not posting it. My translation and
redaction follows:
Take parsley root, parsnips, radishes, scrape them and wash them clean. Take
turnips and cabbages, pared and cored. Take an earthen pan with clean water
and set it on the fire; cast all this therein. When they both boiled cast
therein pears, and parboil them well. Take all these things up and let it
cool on a fair cloth. Do thereto salt; when it is cold, do it in a vessel;
take vinegar and powder and saffron and do thereto, and let all these things
lie therein all night, other(wise) all day. Take Greek wine and honey,
clarified together; take Lumbard mustard and raisins of Corinth (currants ?),
all whole, and grind powder of cinnamon, powder douce, anys whole, & fennel
seed. Take alle these things and cast together in a pot of earth, & take
thereof when thou wilt and serve it forth.
COMPOST
FC 130
Copyright 1997 by L. J. Spencer, Jr. (a.k.a. Lord Ras al Zib)
1/2 cp parsley root, peeled and diced
6 parsnips, peeled and diced
1 medium black radish, peeled and diced
1 lb turnips, peeled and diced
1 gallon cabbage, cored and chopped
2 quarts winter pears, peeled, cored and chopped
Salt
1 bottle Retsina (Greek wine)
2 cps honey
2 quarts cider vinegar
.......................................
Powder:
1 cp sugar
1 Tblsp ground cloves
1 Tblsp ground cinnamon
2 Tblsp ground ginger)
.......................................
1 tsp saffron
1/2 cp ground white mustard (the supermarket variety)
1 lb dried currants
1 tsp cinnamon
......................................
Powder douce:
1 cp sugar
1 tsp ground cloves
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground ginger
1 Tblsp ground cubebs (opt.)
2 tsp groung galingal (opt.)
1 Tbsp grains of Paradise (opt.)
.......................................
1 tsp aniseed
1 tsp fennel seed
Place parsley root, parsnips, radishes, turnips and cabbage in a non-reactive
kettle (e.g. enamel, glass, or teflon. Cover with water. Bring to a boil.
Addd pears. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pears are barely tender.
Drain; spread on a cloth. Sprinkle with a substantial amount of salt and
leave until cold.
While mixture is cooling, bring wine and honey to a boil, removing the scum
as needed. When the scum stops rising remove from heat.
Put cooled cabbage mixture into a non-reactive kettle. Add vinegar, powder
and saffron. Let sit in a cool place for 12 hours.
Add remaining ingredients to the wine/honey mixture, stiiring well to make
sure that the sugar is dissolved. Add wine/honey spice mixture to
cabbage/pear mixture and blend carefully. Store in a cool place and use as
needed.
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:17:11 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
Uduido at aol.com wrote:
> Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
> :-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
> a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
> is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
>
> COMPOST
> FC 103
<recipe snipped>
I second the motion! Just a couple of comments on compost: there are
recipes for it in Le Menagier de Paris, as well as Das Buoch Von Guter
Spise, which primarily gives the recipe for the spiced sauce, and
suggests different vegetables that can be preserved/served in it. Also,
a variant can be found, I think, in the XIIIth century Northern European
cookbook, one version of which is also known as The Icelandic Medical
Misellany.
Best of all, I should point out that this stuff keeps for a long time,
especially if you put it, while hot, into a sterile canning jar. You
could do the whole thing with the pressure canner, I suppose, but I've
never found it necessary in this case. I have a couple of jars of
compost that are around two years old, and the one I opened last week
was just fine.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 17:38:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
Adamantius wrote:
> I seem to recall a recipe for aioli in an earlier Spanish
> source, but I'd have to look for the reference... .
It appears in the 14th-c. Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_. I might be
wrong, and it's in the 15th-c. Catalan _Libre del Coch_ instead, but I'm
pretty sure it's in _Sent Sovi_.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 09:41:40 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote:
> Adamantius sez:
>
> >Well, yes, apart from my understanding that la Varenne uses pork fat for
> >roux. It is at least recognizable, more or less. As for emulsified
> > he only says to use lard. Unless the mammocks are particular to pigs?
Funny, I donÕt remember mammocks from my anatomy classes...
Jes' one a' those things modern science doesn't address...my dictionary
sez mammocks are fragments or shreds. Since lard is by definition porkfat (other animals give things like suet and tallow) I'd bet anything
mammocks are what we would call cracklings.
> > la Varenne _The French Cook_ a 1654 English translation of the 1651 work
> > THICKNING OF FLOWRE.
> Melt some lard, take out the mammocks, put your flowre into your melted
> latd, seeth it wel, but have a care it stick not to the pan
...Interesting that this appears to call for unrendered fat, something that
would probably have been on hand in the kitchen, anyway.
But yes, this is clearly a recognizable roux, in spite of the fact that
using fats other than oil or butter has pretty gone out, except in
special cases like beef gravy, etc.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:31:24 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - drawn butter?
Mark Harris wrote:
> What is drawn butter?
All right. In the "Everything Most People Never Wanted to Know
Department", I have my Official Drawn Butter Dissertation, which
actually may come in handy for some. (Hah!) ; )
Okay. Things that are, in archaic versions of English, drawn, are mostly
either eviscerated, which isn't an issue here, or made thick in some
way, which is. Examples are the instructions to draw up a thick almond
milk, or to draw something through a streynour, which more often than
not means to force the item through a strainer to puree it and thereby
make it smooth mixture, rather than lumps and water.
Butter is an emulsion, a perfect mixture of an oil and water, which
under normal circumstances don't want to mix. In this case, they do
anyway. When you melt butter, it becomes a relatively thin liquid, and
the emulsion "breaks" apart into its two parts again, which is why you
can skim the clear butterfat off the top, and leave the rest behind, and
it is this clarified butterfat that is what most modern people think of
as drawn butter (which, by the way, is NOT the same thing as the ghee
used in Indian and Midle Eastern cookery, but don't get me started).
In [late] period cookery parlance butter would have been "drawn" by
melting it VERY slowly and on a very gentle heat, like in a double
boiler or some such, with another liquid, beating it as it melts. So you
find sauces made from things like the vinegar that a fish was marinated
in, with butter melted into it and whipped to form a relatively thick,
creamy sauce, along the lines of modern beurre blanc or hollandaise.
Yummers.
Sauces like that are still made today on the Continent, especially in
France, Spain, Portugal and Italy. In England, however, somebody
conceived the idea that drawn butter should be made by making a roux
thickener of cooked flour and butter, turn that into a sauce by adding
water or vinegar or a mixture, or ale, or SOMETHING, and simmering it
for a bit, and then adding more butter, this time beating it in in the
traditional way. I don't know if this was developed by someone who felt
that the starch of the roux would keep the sauce more stable (so it
wouldn't break or de-emulsify on high heat), or if the issue was
expense, with flour and water taking the place of some of the butter, or
if they thought that simple butter beaten into a flavorful liquid was
just too rich, or what. In any case, flour-thickened drawn butter sauces
appear to have originated in England in the late eighteenth, early
nineteenth centuries. In spite of the fact that the sauce in the packet
of Lipton Rice or Noodles In Sauce is more or less made this way, with
dried butter solids and Wondra or some other pre-cooked flour stuff,
it's still a perfectly viable sauce. I like mine on peas, with a tiny
pinch of sugar and some chopped mint. (And STILL Lady Aoife thinks I
don't give English cooking a fair break! ; ) ) Some people like it on
Lutefisk, which is how we got on this topic in the first place, IIRC.
But, drawing butter up with a small amount of just water , or vinegar,
or some other watery liquid is still alive and well (in dishes like REAL
fettucine Alfredo, f'rinstance), just as it would have been done in
period. At least in late period, anyway.
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 17:32:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANN1106 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
I have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitter
orange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cut
the peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to the
juice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of a
lemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes before
straining and storing.
Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made from
Seville (Bitter) Oranges.
Audrey (aaparker at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:05:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU>
Subject: Re: SC - Classes: Last Minute Tips Request
<snip>
But: check out the sauces that Lord Julian le Scot made for Known World A&S
this year. He teaches a class on sauce making, and his redactions are very
good indeed. I especially like his mustard. The sauce vert was nummy,
too.
http://www.math.harvard.edu/~schuldy/kwas.menu.html
Tibor
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:44:13 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
Mark Harris wrote:
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
Sauce Hollandaise, as we now know it, is the modern descendant of
earlier forms of a sauce believed to have been brought to France by the
Heugenots. So, its prototype appears to have actually been a Flemish or
Dutch sauce thickened with eggs, like a savory custard, and perhaps a
little butter beaten in to smooth the texture. I'm not up on the finer
details of Heugenot history, but that would put the prototype sauce at,
what, late sixteenth, early seventeenth century?
Francois Pierre de La Varenne, in "Le Cuisinier Francois" (1651) gives
a recipe for a similar sauce, calling for "good fresh butter, a little
vinegar, salt, nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the sauce; take care that
it does not curdle." We have no ingredient measurements or proportions,
though, let alone any additional method or instructions, so it's hard
to say how close to Hollandaise this is. There are a number of examples
of contemporary French and English sauces made by beating soft or melted
butter into things like vinegar, and there seems to have been an equally
prevalent tradition in Germanic countries of thickening sauces with egg
yolks.
Modern Hollandaise sauce is usually made by warming egg yolks in a bowl,
over a pan of hot water, and whipping them until light with vinegar,
lemon juice, salt, white and/or cayenne pepper. You then beat in melted
or clarified butter, a tiny bit at a time, as you might with mayonnaise,
until it is light yellow in color, thick, and the sharpness of the lemon
and the vinegar is a bit more subdued. More daring cooks will often omit
the bain marie / double boiler aspect, and do it right in a saucepan
over direct heat. Of course, then it is more likely to curdle and
de-emulsify or break.
Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
which offhand.
I'd have to say my feeling is that Hollandaise sauce as we know it today
is OOP, but that there might be recognizable ancestors from within
period.
Adamantius
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 20:58:03 -0500
From: margali <margali at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
>
> Stefan li Rous
well, you can buy something called hollandaise sauce in packettes, and
something yellowish and drippy in jars they swear is hollandaise
sauce...
you take lots of butter, yolks of eggs beaten, either lemon squeezings
and zest OR an herbal vinegar, salt and pepper to taste-
get the butter melted but not boiling hot, put the eggs in a sauce pan,
and start whisking. pour the butter in while whisking until it thickens.
when the sauce is pretty much done, add the salt and pepper, and the tsp
or so of liquid flavor. provided it hasnt curdled, you have hollandaise
sauce. if you are in practice, it takes as long as the packette of
powdered stuff.
i use the egg whites in the scrambled eggs to fill the crepes, but you
can use it to make anything calling for just the whites.
a good hollandaise should make the capillaries scream for help!
margali
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 09:58:12 PST
From: "Alderton, Philippa" <phlip at morganco.net>
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
My step-mother makes a very good mock Hollandaise sauce which is both tasty
and easy.
1/2 cup mayonaisse (Hellman's)
2 teaspoons prepared mustard
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Mix and heat through, stirring. DON'T BOIL.
It's nice for those occasions when you have forty-eleven other things to
do, and don't really have the time to make a proper Hollandaise.
The day she gave me the recipe, she was making a Holiday brunch for 15-20
people, and she had a recipe for Eggs Benedict in which you poached the
eggs the night before, kept them in a pan of water overnight, and heated
and served the next day. Folks, you have not lived until you learn to poach
eggs by the pot of simmering water method, with 3 dozen eggs to have done!
I got her an egg poacher for Christmas- we still laugh about it.
Phlip
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 21:56:58 EST
From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Cracknels
<< I'm finding it hard to imagine a sweet pudding-like dessert
with pork or some sort of fatty cracklings in it, but just because it
seems strange to me doesn't prove anything at all!
>>
Since so many recipes from period seem to me to resemble mincemeat and I have
no aversion to sweet meat, I often serve a wonderful relish made with apples,
onions, green peppers, garlic, pepper and brown sugar to accompany roast
pork.
Ras
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:10:04 EST
From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com>
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
dkpirolo at cts.com writes:
<< 3. Is mayonnaise period?
In Ancient Cuisines , Jeff Smith cites an ancient Greek recipe which calls for
a vinegar, oil and egg and indicates that he thinks this is a "mayonnaise"
recipe. However, the majority of food experts place it well within the modern
era.
Ras
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:20:40 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
The first example of an emulsion sauce I've seen is in la Varenne, 1651.
Before that, sauces are all thickened with particulates or through
reduction. So I would say no, mayonaisse is not period.
- --Anne-Marie
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:40:16 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
I _think_ there's an emulsified (which is the key for the creaminess of
mayonnaise) sauce in Manuscrito Anonimo, which is a puree of garlic,
and, I think, hard-boiled egg yolks, with olive oil beaten slowly in.
That's probably about as close as you'll find until the eighteenth
century or so. If you look at one of the Spanish cold garlic soup
recipes, or a French rouille recipe, you'll find something like it,
except the period equivalent would lack the red peppers and occasional
potato found in rouille.
Adamantius
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 13:04:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Subject: SC - hollandaise, aioli, almedroch
Also in the Stone Ages, Gideanus wrote:
> Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
> believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
> other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
> or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
> which offhand.
In the c.1400 AD Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_ are the following two
recipes (our translation; be warned that neither of us has formal
training in medieval Catalan, or modern Catalan for that matter).
Sorry I don't have the original Catalan on-line; it's on paper in a
pile somewhere in this house.
141 Almedroch
If you wish to do almedroch, take grated cheese and two or three cloves
of garlic, and mince them [until they're stiff & can be shaped]. And
when they are minced, temper them with hot water, and when you
[axetars]? them, don't use the pestle to immediately disintegrate them,
but only mince them finely. And it should be of a good thick
consistency. And if perchance they are destroyed, take a large spoon,
and heat it well on the fire; and when it is well heated, put it into
the almedroch, and stir it around, and it will return to its state.
142 Almedroc with eggs
If you wish to make almedroc, you will have 2 or 3 cloves of garlic and
cheese, as in the previous recipe for almedroch. And crush them very
well, and crush into them two or three eggyolks boiled in water. And
when it is well mixed, [exetats] it with good broth and butter. And if
you don't have butter, add a little oil and good spices. And make it a
consistency that is thick, and don't cook it. And use it on pork, that
goes on the spit. And it should not be tempered, which will destroy
it, but left as flavored as it is. In the same way is made [esquesos]
garlic, but make it with more garlic. And don't put in seasonings &
spices, except to make it white and thick, and don't let it boil. And
it serves to give heat when used thus with almedroc.
The first, from the directions for how to rescue it if it is
"destroyed", is apparently an emulsified sauce of cheese and garlic,
and the second is the same thing with boiled eggyolks (which, as I
understand it, help to stabilize the emulsion), as well as broth and
butter.
Marimar Torres, in her book on modern Catalan cooking, _The Catalan
Country Kitchen_, gives a recipe for "allioli", which she translates as
"garlic mayonnaise", made from minced garlic, a raw whole egg, olive
oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. She comments that "Purists in
Catalunya insist on making their allioli in a mortar and pestle, but I
always use a food processor...." I've read elsewhere that "purists"
don't include egg in their allioli, relying on compounds in the garlic
alone to stabilize the emulsion.
On the subject of "eggyolks boiled in water", I recall that the 13th-c.
Arabo-Andalusian _manuscrito anonimo_ contains LOTS of recipes calling
for boiled eggyolks. In particular, one entitled "Cooking Stuffed
Eggplants" (which I included in my T.I. article of c. 1994, "Some Recipes
of al-Andalus"), that says "...boil eggyolks and also fry them a little..."
One possible interpretation was to boil eggs, peel them, extract the
yolks, and then fry them, but on a lark I tried separating raw eggs,
dropping the yolks gently into near-boiling water (which I had handy,
having just boiled eggplant in it), then fishing them out with a slotted
spoon and frying them in oil (which I had handy, having just fried the
eggplant in it). This works, and the yolks have a rather different
texture from what they would have if boiled inside the rest of the egg.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 23:11:21 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Garden time
> On the same line, Horseradish recipes????? Please?
There's a recipe for a horseradish sauce in the German corpus. Horseradish
root, vinegar, a bit of sugar and spice, if memory serves. Tasted just like
the non-cream style stuff out of the jar.
- --AM
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:25:51 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Pine nuts
For a nice fish sauce (Greek, and probably period), heat a cup of
pomegranate juice, thicken it with bread crumbs, and stir in about three
tablespoons of pine nuts.
Bear
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:12:07 -0500
From: vjarmstrong at aristotle.net (Valoise Armstrong)
Subject: Re: SC - Jellies vs. aspics
Allison wrote:
> As for cooked, sweetened, mashed fruit, you get 'mus' in
>the German corpus, which turns out like applesauce, etc., depending on
>the fruit. It is used generally as a sauce.
Actually mus refers more to dishes of a certain consistency than to fruit
sauces. That's why you can find not only grape, fig, cherry, or apple mus,
but also mus recipes for wine, fish, egg, crayfish, chicken, rice, etc.
Some of them (even the fruit ones) are thickened with bread crumbs or eggs.
Probably the closest thing to conserves or fruit paste would be latwerge,
basically fruit thickened by cooking it down. I think Kuchenmeysterei (c.
1490) might have a recipe, I don't know of any others.
Valoise
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:16:17 -0500
From: "J. Scott & Arisa Ballentine" <ballentine at earthlink.net>
Subject: SC - RE: roux from a newbie
Philip & Susan Troy quoted:
>> How long you brown
> > the flour determines the final color of the gravy, short time for white
> > gravy, browned well for up to 10 minutes for really dark gravy. It
> > develops a stronger, nutty flavor the longer it cooks (this is what the
> > Cajuns call a roux, BTW).
Well, the French certainly use the term roux as well. There are 3 classic
stages of roux:
white: cooked just enough to get rid of the starchy taste - no color change
- very strong thickening power.
blonde: also called "popcorn" roux because there is only a slight change of
color, but a distinct nutty flavor like fresh popcorn - strong
thickening power.
brown: dark, rich roux, usually takes up to thirty minutes to fully establish
this roux - very little thickening power - very flavorful - most
people stop here.
The Cajuns have added an additional step:
black: extremely dark roux, cooking time is usually at least one hour (note:
this is usually taken from brown to black in a slow oven), extremely
flavorful, this is the difference between good gumbo and gumbo -
virtually no thickening power.
Fergus Stout
[editorÕs note - roux are a post-1600 development, but I thought this message
interesting and useful.]
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 02:47:36 EDT
From: DianaFiona at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Yikes! I'm teaching a class!
A Garlic Sauce with Walnuts or Almonds
Platina book 8
To almonds or walnuts that have been coarsely ground add as much cleaned
garlic as you like and likewise, as need be, grind them up well, sprinkling
them all the while so they do not make oil. When they are ground up put in
white breadcrumbs softened in juice of meat or fish, and grind again. And if
it seems too stiff it can be softened easily in the same juice. (See next
recipe.)
A More Colored Garlic Sauce
Platina book 8
Prepare this in the same way as above. But do not moisten it in water or
juice, but in must of dark grapes, squeezed by hand and cooked down for half
an hour. The same can be done with juice of cherries.
1/8 c walnuts
1/2 T garlic
1/4 c bread crumbs
about 1 1/2 c grape juice, then boil it down.
about 4-6 t vinegar
1/4 c water
For that matter, one of the pasta-and-cheese recipes would be a nice,
easy, and familiar start. And, at least to me, the Benes yfryed recipe seems
dead easy. Cook beans until done (Limas make a reasonable substitute if favas
are unavailable or too "weird" ;-) ), strain and saute' in oil with chopped
onions and garlic. The dusting of powder douce to finish can be ommited if
prefered--I don't care for it much in this case, myself.
Spinach tarts are also simple if you use frozen spinach and pie shells.
Thaw the spinach, press the moisture out of it, saute' (That word again! Well,
just tell 'em to fry it. Even the younger kids know what that means....... ;-)
) in butter with spices to taste, put it in a pie shell and bake it. I seem to
remember other recipes that have either cheese or eggs included also, but I'm
not sure from whence they might have come............
A number of the desserts are easy, too--and, if you can get the equipment
on hand, doing the "period funnelcakes" would be great fun! I swear one of
these years I'm going to set up as a food merchant beside the tourney field
and sell these--I have a feeling it would be *very*
proffitable..................... ;-)
Hope one or two of these ideas will appeal to your crowd--and good luck
with the class!
Ldy Diana, who *should* be working on the class *she's* teaching Mon.
instead of playing with cookbooks!
Vulpine Reach, Meridies
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:23:15 EDT
From: Mordonna22 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - low calcium diet help
ghesmiz at UDel.Edu writes:
<< or if it is possible to make
a cream sauce out of "non-dairy creamer"? or any simple and quick
multi-purpose sauces that would be low calcium? >>
An easy cream sauce can be made with powdered non-dairy creamer:
Easy "Cream Sauce"
2 cups stock, milk, or water
Salt and pepper to taste
garlic to taste
4 heaping tbs creamer
2 rounded tbs corn starch
1/4 c water
Heat liquid to slow boil, add seasonings and creamer, mix corn starch with
cold water and add to boiling liquid.
stir vigorously with whisk until thickened and smooth.
Mordonna DuBois
Cook, Warrior Haven
(who has lived and eaten on a meagre budget at times)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:45:52 EDT
From: RuddR at aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: Walnuts
<Salut!
I know that Juglens nigra is native to the US, but is there an oldworld
walnut? If so, has anyone tried making "walnut milk," or seen recipes
using walnuts??
Bogdan>
Sauce for stockysshe in an-other maner (Ashmole MS 1439, Two 15th Cent.
Cookery Books, p109), has walnuts, garlic, pepper, bread and salt ground
together and thinned with fish broth: thick garlic walnut milk. It goes great
with more than fish, and very easy in a blender.
Rudd Rayfield
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:11:54 EDT
From: RuddR at aol.com
Subject: SC - 16th c. German Roux
David Friedman writes:
<A standard modern technique for making a sauce or gravy is to stir flour
into hot fat then add liquid, creating a suspension. So far as I know, this
technique is unknown in medieval cooking, where thickening is typically
done with bread crumbs, egg yolks, amidoun (wheat starch) or rice flour.
This raises the interesting question of when and where the technique
originated.
At Pennsic, I acquired a copy of the recent translation of the cookbook of
Sabrina Welserin, which is mid 16th c. German. Several recipes early in the
book (5, 9, 11, ...) seem to be describing the modern technique. Does
anyone know of an earlier example elsewhere?>
Although it is not a true roux, since there is no grease or butter mentioned,
there seems to be a "proto-roux" described in Ashmole MS 1439 (Two Fifteenth-
Century Cookery-Books, p. 110):
"Sauce gauncile
Take floure and cowe mylke, safroune wel y-grounde, garleke, and put in-to a
faire litel pot; and se(th)e it ouer (th)e fire, and serue it forthe."
A flour and milk base does seem to be unusual for a medieval sauce; this is
the only one I recall seeing.
Rudd Rayfield
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:05:09 -0800
From: Anne-Marie Rousseau <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: RE: SC - > Feeding Gunthar and Thyra
Hi all from Anne-Marie
For her Highness, there is are several outstanding creamy yet slightly tart
sauces in ther period and Elizabethan repetoire. Sauce Robert comes to mind
(butter, mustard, vinegar, capers and chives), as does la Varennes "white
sauce" (an egg yolk emulsion sauce with vinegar. Sound familiar?)
Then Ber sez...
> I also love beef Wellington and anything Anne-Marie cooks!
aw shucks :)... well, here's some recipes. The text is from my pbulications
"French Food in the Renaissance". All rights reserved, no publication with
permission, blah blah blah.
SAUCE ROBERT
This rich, creamy, slightly tangy sauce appears in many of the French
sources. There is some variation, for example le Cuisinier franois updates his
with capers, but all use verjuice and mustard and butter. What it's served on
seems to vary as well, with le Menagier a Paris putting it on poached sole
(M30), le Viandier de Taillevent on poached or baked John Dory (a North Atlantic
flat fish) (T115, T207), and le Cuisinier fran=E7ois on Poor John (another fish,
maybe a regional name for a John Dory?) (V80), goose (V33, p41), pork loin
(V56, p48), or wild boar (V39, p67). We've enjoyed this sauce on fish, pork,
and even veggies, though there's no documentation for the latter. Heck, it's
even good with bits of bread...
Poor John with a Sauce Robert. (V80)
You may put it with butter, a drop of verjuice, and some mustard, you may also
mixe with it some capers and chibols.
Barbe Robert [Sauce] (T207)
Take small onions fried in lard (or butter according to the day), verjuice,
vinegar, mustard, small spices and salt. Boil everything together. (A 1583
cookbook quoted by Pichon et al., p109)
(M30) "POLE" and SOLE are the same thing; and the "pole" are speckled on the
back. They should be scalded and gutted like plaice, washed and put in the pan,
with salt on them and water, then put on to cook, and when nearly done, add
parsley; then cook again in the same liquid, then eat with green sauce or with
butter with some of the hot cooking liquid, or in a sauce of old verjuice,
mustard and butter heated together.
Our version:
1 tsp. rinsed and minced capers
2 tsp. minced green onion, just the white part
2 tsp. fine ground prepared mustard
1/2 stick butter
1 tsp. cider vinegar or verjuice, if you have it
Mix all over heat till well blended. If it separates, whip with whisk till
reblended. Makes about 1/2 cup.
Serve on poached fish or roast pork or goose.
LA VARENNE'S WHITE SAUCE
The primary sources considered for this work show an interesting
development in the use of thickening agents. The middle ages saw the use of
bread crumbs and almonds, as well as the technique of reduction, or thickening
by protracted boiling. There was an occasional use of eggs, both hard boiled
(which thickened by particulates) and raw (thickening as the proteins in the
raw egg coagulated). The work Epulario seems to rely heavily on raw eggs rather
than the particulate thickener of the earlier works. Le Cuisinier franois has
an entire chapter discussing a number of preparations that one could use to
thicken sauces and dishes. It suggests making these ahead of time and keeping
them "against future need=92, stating that these are "useful for all, or instead
of eggs".
Several of these preparations are familiar, as they include the
ubiquitous almond (thickening using particulates), along with the old standby
of bread crumbs and egg yolks. but, Lo! le Cuisinier fran=E7ois specifies one
method ("A Thickning of flowre", Vp120) whereby flour is cooked with fat, and
onion, broth, mushrooms and vinegar are added and the preparation strained
before use. It's a roux! The basic ingredient of most modern French sauces is
this cooked emulsion of flour and fat.
Another example of the burgeoning art of French sauce making is la
VarenneÕs white sauce. It's a real emulsion sauce; like hollandaise, bernaise
and mayonnaise. Recipes in le Cuisinier franois call for this sauce on leeks
(V38, p157), cauliflower (V16, p84), asparagus (V77, p113), artichoke bottoms
(V62, p108), as well as chicken pie (V4, p126), veal breast (V11, p126) and
lamb pie (V23, p113; V26, p134). It has a delicate yellow color and is a
creamy, slightly tart accompaniment to anything you fancy.
I found myself incapable of producing this sauce on the stovetop without
it curdling. With vigorous whisking, it was still presentable, but only if
eaten immediately, and would tend to curdle out again. The blender version of
this sauce, while not authentic in preparation method tastes the same and is
ideal for any situation where the sauce may not be served immediately, or the
temperature of your stove may not be gentle and steady enough (like, say, most
of the time?). This sauce can cool off and it won't curdle or go ropy. If it
starts to separate at all (we only noticed it after over an half hour), whiz it
for a second or so more in the blender.
Sparagas with White Sauce (V77 p113)
Choose the biggest, scrape the foot of them, and wash them, and seeth them in
water, salt them well, and let them not seeth too much; after they are sod,
draine them and make a sauce with very fresh butter, a little vinegar, salt,
nutmegg, and the yolk of an egg to thicken the sauce, and have a care that it
doe not curd or (turne) and serve them garnisht with what you will.
Our version:
In a small pan, melt 1/4 lb. butter till it's all bubbly hot.
To the blender, put 3 egg yolks
2 T. vinegar (cider or balsamic or white wine)
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. nutmeg
Cover, flick on and off at high speed. Remove cover, turn on high and gradually
add the hot butter. Blend on high for 4 seconds or so. Serve on anything that
doesn't move.
Makes about 1/2 c. sauce.
Optional modern variation:
1 shallot minced
2 T white wine vinegar
1 T water
1/4 t. fresh ground pepper
boil till dry in a small pan (i.e. the shallots have soaked up all the liquid),
and add the butter and melt as described above. Continue with rest of
instructions.
- --Anne-Marie
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:00:35 +1100
From: "Phillippa Venn-Brown" <p.vbrown at tsc.nsw.edu.au>
Subject: Re: SC - Isles Anniv Feast April 25, menu vers 1.1
> Sorrel Sauce (Take a 1000 eggs or more) - will have to taste test this one,
> see if it goes with anything served above.
This Sorrel sauce goes brilliantly with Roast Pork or suckling Pig which I
made it to accompany for Charles of the Park's "Fine Food Feast" posted to
the list last Sept/Oct.
I have it on authority from my friends who can eat seafood that it also
goes well with light flavoured fish.
Filippa Ginevra.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:19:39 EST
From: Balano1 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Fruit sauce/R¿degr¿d med Fl¿de
Hopefully, someone else can help document this but it is and has been a
standard throughout Scandanaivia and Western Europe for time unknown. I'm
told it's one of those that everyone's grandma can make and no one really has
a recipe for but I can attest to its pervasive appearance throughout Sweden
and Germany...this is a modern adaptation -
R¿degr¿d med Fl¿de
2 ten ounce packages frozen mixed berries, strawberries and rasberries
2 Tblsp sugar
2 Tblsp arrowroot powder
1/4 cup cold water
slivered almonds
1/2 cup light cream
Blend berries until pureed or rub through a fine sieve. Place puree in a 1
-
1 1/2 quart saucepan and stir in sugar. Bring to a boil stirring constantly.
Mix 2 Tbsp arrowroot powder and 2 Tblsp cold water to make a smooth paste.
Stir into sauce, let mixture thicken and remove from heat and cool. Chill
for at least 2 hours and serve with slivered almonds on top and cream on the
side.
- - Sister Mary Endoline
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:36:46 SAST-2
From: "Ian van Tets" <ivantets at botzoo.uct.ac.za>
Subject: SC - Sumac revisited (Italian sauce)
Back in the not too distant past there was a brief flurry of
discussion on a middle eastern flavouring known as Sumac. I recently
tripped across a description of a European sauce using Sumac and
thought that one or two of you might be interested.
Francesco Datini, a merchant from Prato near Venice in the
late 14th century, was rather fond of his food. He travelled
regularly and his correspondence (much of which has survived)
often covers important topics like "what I would like for dinner when
I come home". Among his favourite sauces was savore sanguino,
which was made by "pounding raisons, cinnamon, sandal and sumac
together and mixing them with wine and meat".
My source for this sauce is Iris Origo's "Merchant of Prato",
(the revised edition published in English by Penguin in 1963). Origo
cites the following as her source:
Biblioteca Marucelliana, Florence, Manoscritti, C. 226 (a
miscellaneous codex of the 15th century), p. 128
Jan van Seist
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:58:01 -0500
From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)
Subject: Re: SC - Blue Sauce - Maybe chestnuts?
Hello! I don't recall if anyone mentioned it, but there is a recipe in
Epulario (p. 32) for 'skie color sauce in summer' which calls for
mulberries: "Take wild mulberies which grow in the Hedges, and a few
stamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper all this with Veriuice and
straine it."
Cindy
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 00:12:23 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauces for Roast Pork
Bronwynmgn at aol.com wrote:
> I am the head cook for our shire's event in May. The main dish for the feast
> will be spit-roasted pork (ie we are having someone come in to do a pig
> roast). I would like suggestions for 2-3 sauces that could be spooned onto
> the meat after the diner gets it on his plate. The remainder of the feast is
> primarily 14th century English and French, and I would prefer recipes that fit
> into those parameters.
Taillevent recommends roast pork be eaten with verjuice, and says some
people put garlic, onions, wine, and verjuice in the pan with the
drippings from the meat and make a sauce with that. Kind of like sauce
Robert without the mustard.
He says of stuffed roast suckling pig that while some lazy persons eat
it with Cameline Sauce, it should be served with a hot Yellow Pepper
Sauce. Of that, Poivre Jaunet, he says to grind ginger, long pepper,
saffron -- and some people add in cloves with a little verjuice -- and
toast; infuse this in vinegar (or verjuice) and boil it when you are
about to serve your meat.
Something Taillevent doesn't recommend for roast pork, but which happens
to be excellent with it, is Garlic Jance, made from ginger, garlic and
almonds, ground, infused in verjuice and boiled until thickened. He says
some people put white wine in it too. It's a little like a modern Greek Skordalia...
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:13:38 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: SC - Opusculum de saporibus (was: Welcome ...) / sauce for lamprey
<< Oh, and then there's Maino de Maineri's early 14th century Opusculum
de Saporibus, roughly, Little Book of Condiments, a sauce book in Latin,
which appears to have been plagiarized by Arnald de Villanova in his
much-more-well-known Regimen Sanitatis. >>
As you all know, Arnald of Villanova died 1307 or 1309 in a shipwreck.
Magninus died about 1364. The first texts of Magninus mentioned by
THorndike are from the 1320ies, when Arnald was long dead.
If I understand correctly the incipit of the Regimen sanitatis, quoted
by THorndike, it was the other way round:
"Incipit liber de regimine sanitatis Arnaldi de villa nova quem Magninus
mediolanensis sibi appropriavit addendo et immutando nonnulla" (p. 184
note 8, continued from p. 183).
Roughly: Here begins the book about the healthy way of life by Arnald of
Villanova, that Magninus of Milano 'made his own', whereby he added and
changed quite a bit.
On the other hand, Terence Scully in his "The _opusculum de saporibus of
Magninus Mediolanensis_" (Medium Aevum 54, 1985, 178-207) holds, that
the Regimen is the work of Magninus. In this case, the Regimen could
have been incorporated into the collected works of Arnald by the
_editors_ of Arnalds collected works.
Here is a sample recipe from the opusculum for the translators on this
list:
"Pro lampridis magnis assatis et murenis recipe zinziberi albi
gariofilorum gallange granorum paradisi ana 3. m. panis assi infusi in
aceto medium. Distemperetur cum pinguedine piscis et agresta et bulliat.
Vel potest fieri gellatina superius scripta. Et sicut dictum est de
lampreda similiter intelligatur de murena." (p. 188)
The latin text of the _opusculum de saporibus_ is at:
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909/sapor.htm
or via
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909 (choose "Alte Kochbuecher")
Thomas
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 05:42:14 +1000
From: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks" <meliora at macquarie.matra.com.au>
Subject: SC - Sauce recipe for Lamb Shanks
Artemis,
> Yet another quick question. I'm currently looking for a good
> (and preferably simple) sauce recipe to go over some roasted
> lamb shanks I'm serving at a feast. Something from around
> 1200-1350 would be ideal, but with a month to go I'm open to
> all suggestions.
A new variation that Drake & I have been using is as follows from Redon's
Medieval Kitchen. The recipe is for Chicken but the sauce is really yummy
with lamb!!!
Roast Chicken. To prepare roast chicken, you must roast it; and when it is
cooked, take orange juice or verjuice with rosewater, sugar and cinnamon and
place the chicken on a platter; and pour this mixture over it and send it to
table. (Maestro Martino, Libro de Atre Coquinaria, no 127)
Redon's redaction of the sauce is:
juice of 3 bitter oranges (sevilles) OR 10 tablespoons verjuice plus 1
tablespoon rose water
1/2 tea sugar
1 pinch ground cinnamon
salt to taste
Drake's Variation: Instead of pouring this over the meat, we heat it
separately and thicken with cornflour. Presto - Gravy for Coeliac (allergic
to gluten) people.
Meliora - from Polit.
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:10:01 EDT
From: Elysant at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - white sals
LrdRas at aol.com writes:
> margali at 99main.com writes:
> << Any chance of getting Cariadoc's white sals recipe we made at Pensic?
> margali
> The white sals recipe 'we' made at Pennsic was my recipe. The translation of
> the recipe was in Cariadoc's Collection of Medieval and Renaissance
> Cookbooks, Vol. II, The Book of the Beloved; 'White Sals'.
Hello Margali,
Here's the recipe for White Sals for you. Credit for redacting this recipe
actually goes not only to Lord Ras, but also to myself, and to Puck. :-)
Elysant
-----Original (translation)-White sals. Walnut meats, garlic, pepper, cinnamon, white mustard, Tahini andlemon juice.Redaction-White sals
(copyright c 1999 Ras, Elysant, Puck)
1 cp. Walnuts
2 cloves Garlic
1/8 tsp. Black pepper, ground
1/2 tsp. True cinnamon, ground
3/4 tsp. prepared mustard (see notes below)
2 Tblsp Tahini
Lemon juice, as needed
In a food processor combine walnuts and garlic until they form a smooth
paste. Put walnut mixture in a bowl. Add pepper. cinnamon, mustard and
Tahini. Mix thoroughly adding lemon juice by the teaspoonful until a smooth
very thick mixture is achieved.
NOTE: There is a description of mustard as prepared in the medieval middle
east in another section of Caraidoc's Collection. We used a modern mustard
that most fit this description. Any country-style mustard would work.
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 09:40:15 EDT
From: WOLFMOMSCA at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Preserves & Sauces - recipes wanted
This one freezes well, and besides being a great sauce for roasted meats,
also makes a great condiment for burgers on the barby.
From The English Hous-wife, Gervase Markham, 1615
Sauce for a Roast Capon
To make an excellent sause for a rost Capon, you shall take Onions, and
having sliced and peeled them, boyle them in fair water with Pepper, Salt,
and a few bread crummes: then put unto it a spoonfull or two of claret Wine,
the juyce of an Orenge, and three or four slices of Lemmon peel: all these
shred together, and so pour it upon the Capon being broke up.
2 cups minced onion (save yourself the last step of "shredding")
1/4 tsp. minced lemon peel
2 Tbsp. dry red or white wine (Your choice, I've used both with equal success)
1 1/2 cups OJ (fresh-squeezed is best, but country-style with the pulp works
fine)
2 Tbsp bread crumbs
Salt
Pepper (both to taste)
Put the onions in a saucepan with enough water to cover, add salt & pepper as
you like it. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Add the
rest of the ingredients, bring back to a boil, and simmer until it thickens
up a bit. Serve it forth, as the saying goes.
This was served at an Elizabethan feast I did this past February. I had
leftovers, so I chucked it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the freezer. I
thawed it out in August for a roast beef dinner, and it was just fine. Be
aware that freezing this will cause the onions to somehow become more
onion-y. I don't know why (that's the science of cookery). But it worked
quite well. It also worked well as an ingredient in everyday meatloaf. Came
out quite yummy.
Wolfmother
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 16:47:30 -0500
From: "Alderton, Philippa" <phlip at morganco.net>
Subject: SC - Apicius Venison Sauce Recipes
I just typed this in for a friend, and I thought some of you who don't have
Apicius yet might like a copy.
Flowers and Rosenbaum , Book VIII, section II
1. Ius in Cervum- Sauce for Venison
Crush pepper, lovage, caraway, origan, celery-seed, asafoetida root,
fennel-seed; pound well, pour on liquamen, wine, passum, a little oil. When
it comes to the boil thicken with cornflour. Moisten the cooked stag inside
and out, and serve.
2. In Platoneum- For Fallow Deer
and for every kind of venison you can use the same sauce.
3. Aliter- Venison, Another Method
Boil the stag, and roast lightly. Pound pepper, lovage, caraway,
celery-seed; add honey, vinegar, liquamen, and oil. When hot thicken with
cornflour and pour over the meat.
4. Ius in Cervo- Sauce for Venison.
Pepper, lovage, Welsh onion, origan, pine-kernals, Jerico dates, honey,
liquamen, mustard, vinegar, oil.
5. Cervinae Conditura- Sauce for Venison
Pepper, cumin, herbs, parsley, onion, rue, honey, liquamen, mint, passum,
caroenum, and a little oil. Thicken with cornflour when boiling.
6. Iura Ferventia in Cervo- Hot Sauce for Venison
Pepper, lovage, parsley, cumin, toasted pine kernals or almonds. Add honey,
vinegar, wine, a little oil, liquamen, and stir.
7. Embamma in Cervinum Assam- Sauce for Roast Venison
Pepper, spikenard, bay-leaf, celery seed, dried onion, fresh rue, honey,
vinegar, Liquamen: add Jerico dates, raisins, and oil.
8. Aliter in Cervum Assum Iura Ferventia- Hot Sauce for Roast Venison,
Another Method
Pepper, lovage, parsley, soaked <dried> damsons, wine, honey, vinegar,
liquamen, a little oil. Stir with a bunch of leek and savory.
Phlip
Philippa Farrour
Caer Frig
Southeastern Ohio
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 23:23:28 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Duck with garlic sauce
The duck came out nice and crisp. The sauce, alas, did not thrill me. I
was redacting Ajete Para Ansarones -- Garlic Sauce for Geese -- which
I posted to this list a while back, along with some other garlic sauces.
It's nut-milk made with almonds, pine nuts and broth, flavored with
roasted garlic, sugar, and a touch of cinnamon and rosewater. The
latter two weren't at all noticeable, but the sugar was, and I felt the
sweetness didn't blend well with the garlic. It wasn't horrible, just not to
my taste. The quantities were specified in the recipe, so I gather how
it's supposed to be. I threw the leftover sauce into the freezer, to test
how well almond-milk based sauces freeze.
The good news is that I already have my eye on a couple of other
recipes that look promising. There's a sauce in which the almond milk
is drawn up with pomegranate juice (I bet it's a lovely color) and a
Lenten dish -- Mirrauste de Manzanas -- which has apples cooked in
almond milk with sweet spices.
Brighid, getting hungry again
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:40:08 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Recipe: Mirrauste de Manzanas
Someone asked me for this recipe, so I thought I might as well post it to
the list.
Source: Ruperto de Nola, _Libro de Guisados_ (Spanish, 1529)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
MIRRAUSTE DE MANZANAS -- Mirrauste of Apples
You must take the sweetest apples and peel off their skin, and quarter
them. And remove the core and the pips, and then set a pot to boil with
as much water as you know will be necessary. And when the water
boils, cast in the apples and then take well toasted almonds and grind
them well in a mortar. Dissolve them with the broth from the apples,
and strain them through a woollen cloth with crustless bread soaked in
said apple broth. And strain everything quite thick, and after straining it
cast in a good deal of ground cinnamon and sugar. And then send it to
the fire to cook and when the sauce boils remove it from the fire. And
cast in the apples which remain, well drained of the broth, but see that
the apples should not be scalded, so that you can prepare dishes of
them, and when they are made cast sugar and cinnamon on top.
Notes:
This is a Lenten version of Mirrauste. The meat day version has no
apples. It is a sauce made with toasted almonds, broth, bread crumb,
sugar and cinnamon, and is served with roast birds.
De Nola always specifies when almonds are to be blanched, so I
assume that these almonds are not.
I would be inclined to cook the apples in just enough water to cover, so
as to make a more intensely flavorful broth.
The direction not to scald the apples probably means not to overcook
them, so that they will retain their shape and not turn into applemoyle.
Brighid, who has the stomach flu right now, and is not going to
redacting anything more interesting than oatmeal for a while...
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 14:49:35 -0500
From: Christine A Seelye-King <mermayde at juno.com>
Subject: SC - Digby's Horseradish Mustard
> Digby has a Ginger horseradish mustard sauce: can someone get that
> for me?
>
> Caointiarn
Here you go -
From Sir Kenelme Digby's Closet Opened
"To Make Mustard
<snip - see mustard-msg>
And here is another plain horseradish sauce.
"Sauce of Horse Radish
Take Roots of Horse-radish scraped clean, and lay them to soak in
fair-water for an hour. Then rasp them upon a Grater, and you shall have
them all in a tender spungy Pap. Put Vinegar to it, and a very little
Sugar, not so much as to be tasted, but to quicken (by contrariety) the
taste of the other."
Christianna
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:00:52 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Pomegranate sauce
Tonight, I made a first try at the pomegranate sauce I mentioned. Here's an
interim report.
Source: Ruperto de Nola, _Libro de Guisados_ (Spanish, 1529)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
SALSERON PARA PERDICES O GALLINAS ASADAS - Sauce for roasted
partridges or hens
Grind almonds which are clean, peeled and blanched; and dissolve them with
juice of sour pomegranates; then cast sugar in the mortar, pulverized, and
cinnamon and ginger because its color and flavor should tend almost towards
cinnamon. There is no need to strain it through a hair sieve.
Notes:
I took 1/4 cup pomegranate concentrate and diluted it with 3/4 water to make 1
cup of juice. I ran it through the blender with 1 ounce of ground almonds.
Although the recipe says that straining is not necessary, I dislike the feel of
almond grit in dishes. I strained the almond "milk" though my new toy -- a
strainer with a very fine metal mesh that I got at a Chinese grocery. I
sweetened the sauce with 4 tsp. sugar, and spiced it with 3/8 tsp. each of
ground ginger and cinnamon. Simmered on a medium-low heat until
thickened. Served it over grilled chicken breast. My lord husband took one
taste of the sauce and said, "Duck". And, indeed, I think it would go well with
duck. It has a wonderful dark-chocolate color. Next time, I think I will try just a wee bit more sweetening, a little less ginger, and a little more cinnamon. I think this one is a winner.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 20:59:11 -0400
From: Elaine Koogler <ekoogler at chesapeake.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Food Attitude
There is a recipe in Scully's Early French Cookery for a Green Sage sauce that
is marvelous with chicken. I'll try to find and and post it tomorrow. I served
it last fall with chicken chunks for a luncheon and folks were spreading it on
bread/eating it with their fingers when the chicken was gone!
Kiri
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 15:23:38 +0200
From: Thomas Gloning <gloning at Mailer.Uni-Marburg.DE>
Subject: SC - Catalan Cooking? (+ recipes)
<< what areas in modern Europe do these Catalan and Neapolitan regions
correspond to? >>
The catalan recipes in question are 14th/15th century. Catalan was
spoken in (part of?) the kingdom of Aragon (North East of today's Spain;
around Barcelona); "Neap0litan" refers to the region around Naples,
Southern Italy. If I am not mistaken, Naples was a huge kingdom then,
that formed around one third of today's Italy (southern part). In the
mid of the 15th century, the Aragonese were sovereigns of Naples and had
a court there.
Here is a recipe for a lemon sauce in four versions (three from Scully,
one from Boström):
I. English translation of Cuoco Neap. #56 (Scully p. 184)
56. Lemon Sauce for Chickens or Capons.
Get one or more chickens, capons or cockerels that have been cooked a
little in water; take them out of the water and mount them on a spit;
then get peeled, well ground almonds and temper them with the bouillon
of the chickens; then get lemon juice and mix it all together with good
spices; and put it into a saucepan to cook a little; then pour it over
the roast with a little fat; serve it very hot.
II. Original Italian Version of Cuoco Neap. #56 (Scully p. 55)
56. Limonata a galine ho ha caponi
Piglia galine ho galina, caponi ho capono ho pullastri, che siano cotti
uno pocho in aqua; poi cazali dal aqua he metali in spito; poi piglia
amandole mondate ben piste he stemprale cum lo sabrero de le galine; poi
piglia sugo de limoni he miscola cum bone specie, ogni cosa insieme, he
mette in una pignatella a cocere uno pochetto; he da poi getta de sopra
de questo rosto, he cum pocho de grasso, he caldo caldo manda in tavola.
III. Catalan version of the recipe: from the 'De apereylar bé de menyar'
(Scully p. 250)
31. Si vols fer limonia.
Prin los pols o galines ho capons, qui sien primerament cuyts .i. poc en
aygue. Puys trets-los de l'aygua, e mit-les en [ms: e] ast.
E ayes amenles perades, e destempre-les ab lo sebrer dels capons. E
d'altre part prin del suc dels limons, e met-ne ab la [ms: le] polvora
de les species, e puys passa-o [ms partly unreadable] tot sobre les
brases, e estia tro que sia be espés, empero primerament hi deu hom
metre del lart del porc en la caçola. E sie donat per tayladors.
A .xx. persones .iiii. llibres d'amenles.
IV. Lean version: lemon sauce to fish
This version is mentioned by Scully in his comentary to be found in
Anonimo Meridionale A #66. Here it is from Boström's edition:
66 LXIIII
Affare brudo de pescie marini [ms: martini] grandi lava lo pescie et
talglialo et soffrigelo con olio non multo. Tolli agmandole non mondate,
pistale et colale, et la colatura micti colli dicti pisci abbollire.
Mictice donde spetie senza saffarana, nanti che tu lo tolli dal foco, et
mictice suco de citrangoli o de lumone. Quisto civo si fi dicto limonia
de pescie. (Boström p. 17)
Thomas
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:10:18 -0400
From: margali <margali at 99main.com>
Subject: SC - Neat website
http://www.ruralwales.org.uk/powysfayre/apicius/prodrnge.htm
They claim to use period recipes to prduce their sauces...
margali
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 00:35:33 EDT
From: AlviraMacD at aol.com
Subject: SC - Sauce question
I'd like to do this sauce as one of the options for the roast at our fall
feast.
Recipe 49: Swallenberg SauceRecipe 49: Swallenberg Sauce
copyright 1995 Alia Atlas
1/2 cup wine
1/2 cup honey
1/4 tsp ginger
1/8 tsp pepper
1/2 Tbsp garlic (minced finely with at 1 tsp salt)
2 egg whites
Mix the wine and honey together. Heat that until the honey melts. Add the
ginger, pepper and garlic. Stir and turn the heat down low. Add the egg whites,
stirring continuously. When the sauce turns brown, or about five minutes over
low heat, it is done. If there are solidified egg whites in the sauce, strain
them out. Serve the sauce.
Introduction to Guter Spise Table of Contents
Alia Atlas/ akatlas at mit.edu
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 11:54:00 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Emulsified sauces (was Re: SC - Adamantius in Error)
And it came to pass on 17 Sep 00,, that Philip & Susan Troy wrote:
[snipped lengthy discussion of the composition of Miracle Whip]
> Regarding thick oil-based, emulsified sauces, it's possible they were
> known in the Hellenic world. It's also possible that some of the Apician
> sauces, that call for various ingredients to be pounded together, with oil
> added, are intended to be emulsified sauces. Examples of thickish sauces
> and purees that have oil beaten in via a mortar and pestle include pesto,
> brandade, skordalia, aioli, rouille, and many others, and while not all of
> these are very old, some of them could be, in one form or another. My
> guess is that Smith has found a reference to a sauce of pounded
> ingredients which contains oil, and has interpreted it as an emulsified
> sauce, rightly or wrongly. I remember seeing a reference to what appears
> to be an emulsified garlic sauce in, IIRC, either Libro del Coch, or the
> Libro Sent Sovi. This would appear to be something similar to aioli and
> skordalia, whch in turn have some similarity to mayonnaise. And, if they
> have almost no egg yolks, to MW as well. ; )
> Adamantius
As it happens, I was looking at _Sent Sovi_ last night. (The _Libre de
Sent Sovi_ is a 15th century Catalan cookbook, which is a precursor of
the Spanish text I've been working with.) I was working on footnoting
"almodrote", which is a garlic-cheese sauce. Here's the relevant part
(it's the sauce part of a more complex recipe):
and then grate good cheese of Aragon that is fine, and take two whole heads
of garlic roasted between the coals and then peel them very well and cleanly
and grind them in a mortar, and then put the cheese in the mortar, and resume
grinding it all together, and while you are grinding them cast a good spoonful
of butter into the mortar, with some egg yolks, and grind it all together, and
when it is all well ground, dissolve it with good mutton broth that is half
cooled, because if it were very hot it would consume the cheese....
It have cooked this, and it is very thick and garlicy and tasty.
There are a couple of recipes in _Sent Sovi_ for almedroc, the Catalan
equivalent. Some versions have oil and/or eggs. In the Florilegium,
there are a few messages from Stephen Bloch, who translated a couple
of the recipes and discussed them.
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/sauces-msg.html
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 15:49:02 GMT
From: "Vincent Cuenca" <bootkiller at hotmail.com>
Subject: SC - Re: historical liver
As far as I can tell, the Spanish corpus
>uses the livers of most edible creatures. There are a lot of recipes
>for roast fowl which use the bird's liver in a sauce.
The technique still survives in modern Catalan cooking. Liver and nuts are
ground into a paste, thinned with broth or wine or water, and then added to
the sauce both as a thickener and a flavoring agent. The technique is
called "picada", and can also include breadcrumbs, herbs and spices, peppers
and chocolate, depending on the sauce. De Nola uses the technique over and
over again, but does not give it a name.
Vicente
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:47:46 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: > SC - Period pesto recipe- Roman Moretaria- LONG
> >So is there any evidence of whether pesto sauce is period or not?
>
> IIRC, the word "pesto" derives from the use of a mortar and *pestle* to
> pound herbs, cheese, garlic, and generally nuts into a paste. The Epicurious
> Food Dictionary states that an uncooked sauce of fresh basil, garlic, pine
> nuts, parmesan or romano, and olive oil originated in Genoa, but gives no
> date. Obviously, there are variations using Romano instead of Reggiano,
> walnuts instead of pignolas, and parsley instead of basil, etc.
There is the "morataria" recipes that originate in Apicius. These are recipes
with garlic, cheese, pinenuts, herbs and then the detailed recipe has layers
of bread soaked in vinegar, sometimes chicken shredded and cucumbers layered
inbetween. Yum.
The biggest debate is whether or not the recipe that calls for 4 heads of
garlic actually is intended to mean cloves. IMO, they could mean fresh heads
of young garlic (I've harvested some and tried it, they are much more subtle
than mature garlic). Anyhow, here are some origina recipes and redactions.
Sorry if you have seen this recipe before.
Hauviette
Original recipe
Appendix Vergiliana, Moretum
Four garlic cloves, celery, rue, coriander, salt grains, and cheese
Apicius Book IV, I-3 Other
Sala cattabia
Hollow out an Alexandrine loaf , soak in water mixed with vinegar. Put in the
mortar pepper, honey, mint, garlic, fresh coriander, salted cow’s milk
cheese, water and oil, cool in snow and serve.
Modern version
.25 lb cheese ( I used a fresh cheese- I have made my own recently, but it
has been suggested to use a stronger one like Parmigianno Regiano or Pecorino
Romano)
1 large clove garlic minced
1 tsp thyme
1 tsp fresh ground black pepper
Combine the ingredients and let cool 1 hour. Let soften before serving
A Redacted Recipe
Sala cattabia
Original Recipe
This recipe is found in Book IV -Many Ingredients, of our main work. It is
included with recipes for patinas ( mostly egg dishes) , fish dishes, fried
dishes of various sorts, stews to be served with the first course(Gustum
versatile)
The original recipe I am redacting from uses the same method outlined in the
Sala cattabia recipe from Apicius noted below. In it, it directs you to
“Have Ready some pieces of bread soaked in water mixed with vinegar. Squeeze
out the moisture, and arrange in a mold, followed by layers of cow’s milk
cheese, cucumbers, alternating with pine-kernels. Add finely chopped capers
alternating with chicken liver”
The second sala cattabia recipe uses layers of various meats including
chicken and goat’s sweatbread. The meat can be omitted where a vegetarian
version is desired. This version omits any meat, however, a boiled chicken
breast meat would is an excellent choice.
Sala cattabia
1 round loaf of sour dough bread hollowed out. Cut the center in cubes and
soak in 1cup water with 1 Tblsp good red wine vinegar of your choice and
1tsp ground cumin. Flower & Rosenbaum point out that Alexandrine bread is
thought to contain cumin. I was advised to taste the vinegar alone to
determine if it tastes fine, if so use it. I chose Tosca brand, which can
be easily found in Canada.
Mix the soaking bread well and let sit for 5-10 minutes. Squeeze out the
excess moisture by pressing it in a seive and set aside.
Mash in a mortar or put in food processor and blend;
1tsp white pepper ground
1 Tblsp honey
1 tsp fre sh mint chopped or ? tsp dried 1 Tblsp fresh coriander or 1 tsp
dried
1 med clove of garlic, chopped
.5 lbs ricotta (you may wish to increase this ingredient to fill out your
mold)
1/2 thinly sliced cucumber (if done in a food processor and very finely, do
not peel)
1- 125 ml jar of capers
2-3 ounces chopped pine nuts
Dressing: 1 Tblsp olive oil, 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar, ? tsp salt.
The next step will vary depending on how large your mold is. Divide the
soaked bread into 3 portions, the cheese and capers, into 2 .* Using a
mold(you may want to rub a small amount of olive oil into the mold if you
are concerned about the food sticking to the sides, I used less than a tsp)
place a layer of cucumbers on the bottom (top when righted) in a pattern if
possible, then place a layer of bread pressing down firmly. Next place a
layer of overlapping cucumber slices. Spoon in ? of the cheese mixture and
spread over the cucumbers. Sprinkle on ? of the chopped pine nuts and 2-3
tsp chopped capers. Repeat.
Finish with a final layer of bread.
.
Place a plate on top of the mold. Put the two in the refridgerator for at
least 2-3 hours to ensure that the mold sets. Turn the molded dish onto a
serving platter and surround with sliced pieces of the outer part of the loaf
of bread. Pour over the dish the prepared dressing. Garnish with some fresh
mint or parsley in the center and serve chilled. Serves 6-8 as main dish or
10- 12 as an appetizer in a large feast.
*Note; in practice, I used 2 - 1 ? lb molds. Each allowed 2 layers of bread
and cucumber and 1 layer of cheese, pine nuts and capers. Had I used a 2-3 lb
mold my resulting dish would have simply been larger, and appeared more
varied.
I have also used a fish mold and placed the cucumbers to appear as scales and
capers for eyes, it was a hit. The decision at this point is up to the cook.
Enjoy the labours!!
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 10:43:38 -0500
From: "Michael F. Gunter" <michael.gunter at fnc.fujitsu.com>
Subject: non-member submission - Re: SC - Period pesto recipe- Roman Moretaria- LONG
> To get back to the original topic of discussion, there's a lot of
> evidence to suggest pesto is very old indeed.
Speaking of Pesto...
We tried to make a green sauce from _The Medieval Kitchen_ which is cited
as beign from Tractatus de modo preparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria:
"Here is how to make green sauce: take ginger, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg,
cloves, parslety, and sage. First, grind the spices, then the herbs and
add a third of the sage and parsley and if you wish, two or three cloves
of garlic. Moisten with vinegar or verjuice. Note that to ever sauce and
condiment salt is added, and crumb of bread to thicken it."
What we got was a sort of thick pesto. The more vinegar we added, the less
we could taste the other ingredients. Redon, when redacting it, included
water, which we ended up trying, and we also tried adding olive oil. (I
know, I know, olive oil is farther from the intention than the water...)
But it was VERY thick, and adding more vinegar seemed not to be an option.
Suggestions?
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 09:14:31 -0700
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: Re: non-member submission - Re: SC - Period pesto recipe- Roman Moretaria- LONG
Not sure who sent this, as it was unsigned:
>Speaking of Pesto...
>We tried to make a green sauce from _The Medieval Kitchen_ which is cited
>as being from Tractatus de modo preparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria:
>"Here is how to make green sauce: take ginger, cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg,
>cloves, parslety, and sage. First, grind the spices, then the herbs and
>add a third of the sage and parsley and if you wish, two or three cloves
>of garlic. Moisten with vinegar or verjuice. Note that to ever sauce and
>condiment salt is added, and crumb of bread to thicken it."
>
>What we got was a sort of thick pesto. The more vinegar we added, the less
>we could taste the other ingredients. Redon, when redacting it, included
>water, which we ended up trying, and we also tried adding olive oil. (I
>know, I know, olive oil is farther from the intention than the water...)
>
>But it was VERY thick, and adding more vinegar seemed not to be an
>option.
>
>Suggestions?
Eat it thick, like modern mustard.
This is a sauce that was made at The Boar Hunt Feast last year and
served with Roast Chicken. It was very very thick, almost, if you'll
excuse this analogy, like a dip. But, omuhgawd, it was delicious.
There was a lot leftover, so i took home a huge baggie full and
dipped anything i could think of into it, like tofu and cheese.
The cook hadn't used too much vinegar, so although it was tart and
tangy, it didn't have "pucker power", and the flavor of the herbs was
very clear.
While green and thick, i didn't even think of pesto when i was eating
it, although i can see why someone might.
Anahita al-shazhiyya
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:36:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jenne Heise <jenne at mail.browser.net>
Subject: Re: SC - OOP - Black Food
> I was wondering if anyone can suggest some other black foods and
> beverages. Several key guild members are vegetarians, so no meat or
> gelatin, although eggs and dairy are ok. And i really really really
> dislike licorice, so none of that (heck, i never even ate one of
> those "black wafers", the frosting smelled so unpleasant to me)
The Black pepper sauce given in _The Medieval Kitchen_ is delicious...:
"Black poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and pepper, moisten with
vinegar and verjuice, and boil (VT BN Scul 227)"
- --
Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 00:09:28 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: SC - Recipe: cider sauce
For many of us, apple cider is widely available right now, so here's
a period recipe that uses it. It has the texture of honey, and a
wonderful sweet-tart flavor. Note to non-U.S. cooks: sweet apple
cider is a non-alcoholic unfiltered apple juice.
I do not know what this sauce was intended to be served with. It
can be spread like jelly on bread. I suspect it would go well with
pork or duck. I also suspect that it would be a good candidate for
canning, though I have no practical experience in that area.
Refrigerated, it keeps for at least a month, probably longer.
CIDER SAUCE
Source: Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599
Translation & Redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Para hacer salsa de zumo de manzanas
To make sauce of the juice of apples
Take the apples, and without peeling them, grate them and extract the
juice from them, as we said of the quinces; adding a little vinegar, and
white wine, and take the clearest part, and for each pound of juice, put
eight ounces of sugar, and cook it like the juice of the quinces, with the
same spices.
And two related recipes:
Para hazer salsa real
To make royal sauce
Take three pounds of fine sugar, and two quarts of white vinegar without
roses, and a quart of white wine, a little whole cinnamon, and make it boil
all together in a new glazed pot until it is cooked, and have the pot
covered, so that it cannot exhale, and to know if it is cooked, the sign will
be that, in falling, a drop will congeal, so that touching it with your hand
does not make it come apart. Serve it cold, and take care that it does not
burn. When you cook it, you can add nutmeg, and cloves, and in place
of the pot, you can make it in a casserole.
Para hazer salsa de zumo de membrillos
To make sauce of the juice of quinces
Grate the quince lightly with a grater, without peeling it, and put it inside
the woolen cloth, and press it until it has yielded all the juice, and put it
in a flask until the thickest part goes to the bottom, and take the clearest
part, and put it in a glazed casserole or pot, and for each pound of juice
put eight ounces of sugar, and two ounces of vinegar, and one ounce of
wine of San Martin, and cook it in the manner that the Royal Sauce is
cooked, as described above, with a quarter [ounce] of whole cinnamon,
half a nutmeg, and four cloves.
Apple Cider Sauce
2 cups sweet apple cider
8 ounces sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour into a
clean glass jar. Refrigerate. Makes about 1 cup.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 18:50:23 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: SC - Sauces
I went to a baronial potluck today. As a contribution, I brought a
loaf of bread, sliced roast beef, and three sauces. One was the
Cider Sauce from Granado which I posted recently. Another was
the horseradish sauce from Nola, and the third was a garlic sauce
from Granado. They were all well received, though the Cider Sauce
was probably the most popular.
I've posted the translation for the Horseradish sauce before, but
here's the redaction:
* Exported from MasterCook *
Horseradish-Honey Sauce
Recipe By : de Nola #157
Serving Size : 20 Preparation Time :0:05
Categories : Sauces Spanish
Vegan Vegetarian
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
- -------- ------------ --------------------------------
1 slice italian bread -- toasted lightly
4 oz horseradish -- finely grated
1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Peel and finely grate the horseradish root. Place in the container
of a blender or food processor. Soak the toasted bread in the
vinegar. Add to the horseradish. Blend a moment until mixed.
Add the remaining ingredients, adjusting as necessary for taste.
Add just enough water to make a smooth sauce that is not too thin.
CAUTION: avoid breathing in the fumes from the sauce.
Just before serving, heat the sauce on low heat until warm. Do not
boil.
For a hotter sauce, wait 3 minutes before adding the bread and
vinegar to the horseradish. For a less fiery sauce, add the vinegar
promptly after grating the horseradish.
If fresh horseradish root is unavailable, take a 6-oz jar of prepared
horseradish. Empty the contents into a mesh sieve, and press
lightly with a spoon to drain off the excess liquid. Reduce added
vinegar to 1 tablespoon. Proceed as above. However, this method
produces a much milder sauce.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The garlic sauce from Granado was milder than I expected, even
though I used 2 large cloves of garlic. Next time I think I will
increase the garlic to 3 or 4 cloves.
The recipe is:
PARA HAZER AJADA CON NUEZES TIERNAS, Y ALMENDRAS
To Make Garlic Sauce with Tender Walnuts and Almonds
Take six ounces of tender peeled walnuts, and four [ounces] of
fresh sweet almonds, and six cloves of boiled garlic, or one and a
half raw, and grind them in the morter, with four ounces of a
crustless piece of bread soaked in broth of mutton, or of fish which
is not very salty, and once they are ground put in a quarter [ounce]
of ground ginger. If the sauce is well ground, it is not necessary to
strain it, but just thin it with one of the abovementioned broths, and
if the walnuts were dried, let them be soaked in cold water, until
they soften again, and can be cleaned. With the abovementioned
sauce, you can grind a little bit of turnip, or of crisp-leaved cabbage
well-cooked in good meat broth, if it is a day for it.
Redaction:
* Exported from MasterCook *
Garlic Sauce with Walnuts and Almonds
Recipe By : Diego Granado
Serving Size : 24 Preparation Time :0:00
Categories : Sauces Spanish
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
- -------- ------------ --------------------------------
6 ounces walnuts
4 ounces almonds, blanched
4 ounces bread -- crusts removed
1/4 ounce ground ginger
1 1/2 cloves garlic cloves
1-2 cups lamb broth
Soak the nuts in cold water overnight, or at least several hours.
Drain, and grind finely in a food processor. Add the bread soaked
in broth, ginger and garlic. Blend until smooth. If necessary, add
more broth and/or water to adjust the consistency of the sauce.
Makes about 3 cups.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 15:20:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Jenne Heise <jenne at mail.browser.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Sauces
> >Any other sauces that anyone would recommend with pork? We'll be
> >roasting it with garlic and not much else - it was scrumptious last
> >year under a different Kitchen Steward, who's now out of the country.
When we ran the taste-test for the sauces we used in the dayboard I just
did, we found that all the sauces were good with pork. However, the ones
we liked best with it were the green sauce, the Tournai cameline, the
black (pepper) sauce, and the black grape sauce (best of all! it has that
sweet/sour thing going).
Recipes and redactions follow.
- -------
Black Sauce: (3x)
Original: "Black poivre. Crush ginger and charred bread and pepper,
moisten with vinegar and verjuice, and boil (The Viander of
Taillevent,edited by Scully, 227, translated in The Medieval Kitchen,
Redon et al.)"
6 slices dark bread, burnt (I used rye with caraway)
Equal parts cider vinegar and cider (1c.?) approximation for verjuice
1 c. wine vinegar
6 Tb pepper
4 1/2 Tbsp powdered ginger
3 tsp salt
Crush up the charred bread into bread crumbs, grind up the pepper (use
fresh-ground) and mise with powdered ginger. Mix this with the vinegars
and add salt. Bring to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from heat. Keeps at
least a week refrigerated.
- -----
Black-Grape Sauce
Original: "Grape Sauce: Take good black grapes and crush them very well
into a bowl, breaking in a bread or half a bread depending on the
quantity you wish to prepare; and add a little good verguice or vinegar so
that the grapes will not be so sweet. And boil these things over the fire
for half an hour, adding cinnamon and ginger and other good spices.
(Maestro Martino, Libro de arte coquinaria, 155, translated in The
Medieval Kitchen, Redon et al.)"
3/4 to 1 lb black grapes
1 slice bread (I used rye with caraway)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tsp ground cassia
1/2 tsp real cinnamon
1 blade mace
5-10 pods cardamom
1 tsp ground ginger
long pepper to taste
trace of nutmeg
Buy seedless black grapes. Strip them from the bunches and wash them. In a
food processor, process until you get a thick mash. Pour into a pot, add
breadcrumbs and vinegar (depending on how sweet the grapes are, you may
need more or less vinegar). Bring to a boil and add spices. Boil for half
an hour: it will be thick and dark purple/magenta. Cool and serve. Keeps
for at least a week refrigerated.
- ----
Tournai-style Cameline sauce (3x)
<snip - See the file camilne-sauce-msg. - Stefan>
- ---
Tournai-style Cameline sauce (3x)
<snip - See the file camilne-sauce-msg. - Stefan>
--
Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 18:48:33 -0500
From: harper at idt.net
Subject: Re: SC - Cider Sauce, Arte de Cozina
And it came to pass on 30 Nov 00, , that lilinah at earthlink.net wrote:
> I plan to serve Robin's Cider Sauce with Roast Pork Loin - about 35
> lb for 80 people - in the Second Course.
Warning, Will Robinson! Danger! Danger! I hope you're not
planning to make one huge batch of sauce. The cider sauce really
has to be made in small batches. You can double the recipe (and
it will take about 1-3/4 hours to boil down) but anything more than
that, and you're likely to have problems. The good news is that it
keeps for weeks in the refrigerator, so you can do a little each day.
> I've more-or-less multiplied up the recipe that Robin sent to the
> list, but it sure seems like a lot of sugar and whole nutmegs. Did
> i do my math wrong?
I don't think so. Keep in mind that this is basically a cider jelly.
You're boiling it down to about half volume, and the sugar provides
the thickening, along with the pectin in the cider. The vinegar
keeps it from being *too* sweet. The whole nutmegs are removed
after cooking, and do not flavor the sauce as much as ground
nutmeg would.
> Apple Cider Sauce (Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599)
> As redacted by Lady Brighid ni Chiarainmka/Robin Carroll-Mann
> To make 1 cup:
> 2 cups sweet apple cider
> 1/2 lb. sugar
> 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
> 1/8 cup white wine
> 1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
> 1/2 whole nutmeg
> 4 whole cloves
>
> Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
> about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
> thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour
> into a clean glass jar. Refrigerate.
>
> My version multiplied by 40, intended to make about 40 cups/10 quarts/2.5 gal.
> 5 gallons sweet apple cider
> 20 lb. sugar (1 lb per 4 people?!?)
> 2-1/2 quarts white wine vinegar
> 5 cups white wine
> 1 lb cinnamon sticks
> 20 whole nutmegs
> 160 whole cloves
>
> This just doesn't look right to me... Help!
Ummm... are you really planning to make 1/2 cup per person? It's
strongly-flavored stuff, and a little goes a long way. I wouldn't serve
more than 1/4 cup per person.
> Thanks - the Feast is on Sunday December 10,
If you have not already planned to do this: start now. Make small
batches, perhaps a double batch on each burner, or farm some of
them out to co-cooks. Once cooled, they can be dumped into a
larger container in the fridge. Do *not* try to do a giant batch; it will
take forever or a little longer. If any of the sauce starts to
crystalize and become grainy, you can treat it like honey -- nuke it,
or place a jar in a pot of hot water until it clears up.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 22:52:08 -0800
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: SC - Cider Sauce Experiments
Robin Carroll-Mann shared her recipe for Spanish cider sauce with the list:
CIDER SAUCE
Source: Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599
Translation & Redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Apple Cider Sauce
2 cups sweet apple cider
8 ounces sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2 ounce cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy
thermometer reads 220F (105C). Strain through cheesecloth. Pour
into a clean glass jar. Refrigerate. Makes about 1 cup.
=====================
What i did:
1.) Being an American without a kitchen scale, i consulted "The Joy
of Cooking" which said that 1 pound of sugar equaled approx. 2 cups.
2.) Although apples grow here in northern California, i do not live
in a fresh cider area. Yes, they sell it around here, and i found it
for around 8 dollars a gallon. To make enough sauce i needed 2.5
gallons and $20 dollars was more than i wanted to spend for the
sauce, considering i had already purchased about $60 spices. So i am
cheating. I bought a frozen natural unsweetened apple juice
concentrate, which makes a gallon for under $4.
3.) Where i was shopping the white wine vinegar was only in little
bottles, so it was mongo expensive, but there was a big bottle of
champagne vinegar that was reasonable, so i got that. More suitable
than red wine vinegar, i reasoned.
4.) As for wine, i am an ignoramus. But i found a 2 liter bottle of
white Chardonnay for $8, so what the hey... I tasted it before using
it and it was definitely drinkable, not bad even.
EXPERIMENT ONE
enough concentrate to make one quart of juice
1/2 as much water as needed to reconstitute
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup champagne vinegar
1/4 cup white wine
1 oz cassia sticks - yes i know they taste different than true
cinnamon, which is much more delicious
1 whole nutmeg, cut in quarters
8 whole cloves
I put them all together in a pan, brought to a simmer and cooked
until reduced by half. I think i was cooking on too low a fire, so
for the last, uh, i don't know, maybe 1/2 hour or 45 min, i brought
the heat up to a faster simmer, but not a rolling boil. I don't own a
candy thermometer, so i gauged by feel - the liquid was definitely
thickened, and i measured it until it was reduced to 2 cups. This
took about two hours. I didn't stand over the pot, just went in and
stirred every 15 min. or so until near the end, when i checked every
five minutes or so, then stood there for the last 10 minutes of
cooking. I removed the spices, but did not strain, as the sauce is
clear. Then I cooled it, 2 cups worth.
It is the color of cherry amber. It never jelled, not even in the
fridge - probably pectin was removed in the commercial processing -
but it is a VERY thick syrup. The flavor is interesting - the wine
and wine vinegar help cut the sweetness of the juice and sugar and
add a nice fruity tang. There is a clear flavor of spices, although
i'd like them stronger, and of apple.
EXPERIMENT TWO
Same ingredients as Experiment One, except i fully reconstituted the
juice and kept the fire higher during the process. It took only a
little longer, because i had the heat higher. But even though i
reduced it by half, it was more liquid than the first batch. It is a
moderately thick syrup. It seems sweeter than the first, although
with a slightly stronger spice flavor.
Although this is probably not what the Spanish made and may not be as
delicious as sauce made from fresh cider, it is very good. I think it
will be a success.
Well, just 4 more potsful to go. This time i'll have two pots going
at once in two sessions. Gee, this is easy :-)
Thanks Robin/ Lady Brighid
Anahita
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 12:10:55 -0600
From: "Michael F. Gunter" <michael.gunter at fnc.fujitsu.com>
Subject: non-member submission - Re: SC - Cider Sauce Experiments
I also have experimented with the Cider sauce for a Birthday party for
the Baron of Bryn Madoc (it wasn't
really his birthday, but it is his perogative to have a party whenever
he wishs <g>). IT came out quite nicely,
and I'll offer my comments along with these. I made a double batch that
came out to two liquid US cups (16 fl. ounces).
My recipe:
4 cups sweet apple cider (plain store brand stuff . . . Thrifty Maid)
1 lb. sugar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup dry hard cider (Woodchuck Granny Smith Apple)
1 ounce cinnamon sticks (zeylanicum)
1 whole nutmeg (cut into 8 pieces)
8 whole cloves
1) I used a kitchen scale for everything, so cannot speak to volumes
except that 2 cups to the pound (US measure) is pretty much standard.
2) I thought that apple cider vinegar would be even more appropriate,
though I just have used white wine vinegar if that was all that was on hand.
3) For wine, I figured a white would be better, but I didn't have one
in house. SO, I used the hard cider. I believe it was Woddchuck Granny Smith Apple. It was a little fizzy, so I let it go flat in the heated pan before use. That way I got the full measure. It changed the original recipe, but came out quite nice. For a white grape based wine, I suggest one not bone dry that has some fruity character left to it.
4) I used zeylanicum sticks for cinnamon. they tended to splinter in
the boil, but they were all strained out at the end anyway. The character was noticable in the sauce . . .bright, sweet and spicey rather than the
darker, earthier taste the cassia would tend to add.
5) My boil was as high as I could get and not get a boilover. I was
impatient, and also wanted to add a little
caramalization in the boil. I also did not use a candy thermometer as
that would not have been available to them.
It took about 70 minutes to get the half volume. If I had done a single
batch in the same pan, I figure the time
would have cut down a bit. A saucier would be even better with the
shallower and wider configuration . . . more
surface area to evaporate. More stirring toward the end so it didn't
stick and scorch. I just went until it looked to be half and was syrupy
on my wooden spoon.
6) I strained it through a cheesecloth to get the spices out. Lost
some of the sauce to the cloth, but not so much
that it was worth crying over. It did give me a less 'chunky' product.
Nutmeg was chopped, cinnamon broke up and the cloves did a little as
well. I got the same cherry amber color reported by others. It did not
jell, but certainly was thickened and syrupy. Had I used a fresh
pressed cider, I suspect a little more thickening from pectins. Though
maybe not whole lot more. I plan to try that soon . . . North GA has
great ciders available. I'll also play with the sugar/vinegar
proportions to see what they do to the consistency and flavor.
The sweet/sour flavor was nicely punctuated by the bright spicing of the
zeylanicum and other spices. Breaking up the nutmeg, I believe made a
big difference. Grating it all down may have been too much, so I'm
going to stick with the broken up. The apple flavor I got was very
clearly there. Maybe the cder instead of wine helped that a little.
The leftovers are aging nicely in the fridge. I plan to use it to
marinade a pork loin roast overnight and then slow grill this weekend .
. . lucious visions are jumping in my taste buds.
<<<<<<<<<I should point out that I don't know if my redaction with fresh
cider
is exactly what the Spanish made. Granado says to start out with
whole unpeeled apples and crush them. Then let the juice stand
and take the clearer part. I don't know if apples treated this way
would result in something closer to cider or to filtered apple juice --
perhaps something in the middle.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Modern and even historical Cider is made by pulping the apple in a sort
of monster toothed roller item and then piling it into a cheesecloth (the pulp is called cheese!) and pressed for cider. We press ours in house by
freezing the apples whole until rock solid, thaw them out and press with
12 ton hydraulic press. the freezing makes them almost mush in the skins. We get nigh on 85% juice out of the apple. the rest is a dried out hull.
I want to thank Brighid for making this available. I needed a fruit
sauce to play with during the holdays, and this is a grand one so far. It was quite popular for the crowd who had it.
niccolo difrancesco
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:22:07 –0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" rcmann4 at earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Dansk kogebog A: haerrae salsae (was: SC - On topic)
On 17 Apr 01,, UlfR wrote:
> I recently got my hands on a (borrowed) copy of Veirups "Til taffel hos Kong
> Valdemar" (Systime A/S, Viborg, Denmark, 1994). This is supposedly the
> oldest surviving European cookbook (dated to 1300). Any comments?
>
> In particular I'm looking at the camelina recipie (though it calles it
> "hærræ salsæ" -- "lords sauce" -- it is to my mind pretty clearly a
> camelina). Apart from the usual camelina spices (cloves, nutmeg, pepper,
> cinnamon, and ginger) it also has cardamons. Has anyone seen that in any
> other camelina recipie?
The Catalan "Libre de Sent Sovi" has a recipe, not for cameline sauce, but for "Polvora de Duch". It contains 1/2 oz. cinnamon, 3/4 oz. ginger, and 1/4 oz. total of cloves, nutmeg, galingale, and cardamon. This is mixed with a pound of sugar. It is the only mention of cardamon in that cookbook.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 11:49:25 -0400
From: Elaine Koogler <ekoogler at chesapeake.net>
Subject: Re: SC - What would you do? or 2 months to freak out
OK...here 'tis:
Froide sauge--Cold Sage Sauce—Du fait de cuisine, #49,from Early French Cookery.
Et pour vous donner a entendre comme vous feres la froide sauge si faictes que vous haies grant foison de percy, grant foison de salvy, et qui’ilz soient bien deliez et laves et esgoutes et broyes tresbien, et si en broyes tant grant quantite qu’elle soit bien verd; et quant elles seront bien broyees si les mesles et mectes avecques vostre pain. Et puis prennes voz espices, c’est assavoir gingibre blanc, granne et du poyvre et coiles tout cela, et agoustes du vin aigre et du sel et le coules trebien espes. Et quant vostre grein sera bien cuit si le tires hors sur belles postz et tables belles et nectes, et puis partisses ledit grein, c’est assavoir la poullaille d’une part et d’autre part les pieces du porcellot, et tant que quant viendra au drecier si mectes en ung chescun platz quatre pieces duit grein, c’est assavoir ung quartier de poullaille et une piecete dudit porcellot sus et en la moytie d’un chescun plat, et en l’autre partie autretant; et en chescun plat en l’une part si mectes de la calaminee et l’autre part a couste de la froide sauge. Et puis prennes du blanc des oefs et les tailles par menuz dez, puis ensemes sus lesditz platz par dessus la friode sauge; et de la dragiee mectes sur la calunafree.
Redaction—Scully.
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2-3/4 cup fresh sage
1 cup hot chicken bouillion
pinch saffron
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 hard-boiled egg yolks
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ginger
1/4 tsp grains of paradise
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
2 slices white bread, crusts removed, torn into small pieces
1. Process parsley & sage in blender with chicken broth or bouillion. Blend slowly.
2. Cook on low heat. Add saffron.
3. Add vinegar to mashed hard-boiled egg yolks and blend with herb mixture
4. Add spices
5. Add bread a little at a time until thick consistency is reached.
6. Taste, correct spices, remove from heat and cool.
I think you'll find it very tasty. I suggest making it several days in advance to allow the flavors to blend thoroughly!
Use it in good health!
Kiri
"Collette S. Waters" wrote:
> Sounds like something that will fit MY June feast. Please send
> Thanks Begga
>
> Elaine Koogler wrote:
> > Along the lines of cold chicken, we put out cold chicken at Amalric & Caia's
> > Coronation, along with a Green Sage Sauce that I got from Scully's Early
> > French cookbook. We got rave reviews on the sauce.
> > It's one of those sauces that improves with age,
> > so making it up ahead of time is a good thing!
> >
> > Kiri
Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 11:46:11 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Need the wording for Garlic Jance
Christine Seelye-King wrote:
> I am making sauces for our demo this weekend, and need to get a quote from
> Tallivent, if anyone has it handy. I need the exact wording for Garlic
> Jance sauce. I have the ingredients, I have made it before even, but I need
> to be able to put this on a card for the folks to see at the demo.
> Thanks for anyone who is able to help,
> Christianna
The VAL (Swiss) MS dated ~1250 (yes, before the birth of Taillevent, but
the Viandier nonetheless) says:
"Sauce de aulx. Broiez gingembre, aulx, amandez, desfaites de verjus,
faitez boullir, du vin blanc, qui veult."
Later copies/editions use the term "jance" for this recipe.
Roughly translated, it would be, "Garlic sauce. Pound ginger, garlic,
almonds, in verjuice, make it boil, using white wine, if you wish."
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 14:36:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Pixel, Queen of Cats" <pixel at hundred-acre-wood.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Need the wording for Garlic Jance
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Olwen the Odd wrote:
> So it goes well with pork eh? How about whole roasted pig? That's pork. I
> may make up a batch of this for Pennsic.
> Olwen
For that matter, Sauce piquant, ostensibly for bunnies, from Du fait de
cuisine, is really quite tasty on pork. Better on bunny, but good on pork.
Margaret FitzWilliam
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:09:45 -0700
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] oop::: Zankou chicken
Admantius wrote:
>SKORDALIA ME PSOMI -- Garlic Sauce With Bread
>
>12-18 slices white bread
>1 head (about 12 cloves) garlic
>2 cups olive oil
>1/3 cup vinegar
>parsley
>Calamata olives
>
>Trim and discard the crusts from the bread; soak in water and squeeze
>out thoroughly; measure to make 2 cups. Clean the garlic. Pound with a
>mortar and pestle or whirl in a blender. Add the bread, a little at a
>time, and mix or blend well with the garlic to a pastelike consistency.
>Add the oil and vinegar alternately, beating constantly. If the sauce is
>too thick, add a little fish broth or water to thin it. (But dilute with
>fish broth only when you plan to serve the sauce on fish; if you will
>serve it with eggplant, dilute with water.) Garnish with parsley and
>the olives.
>
>NOTE: This is a thick sauce with a pudding-like consistency. It does not
>flow off the spoon.
>
>From "The Greek Cookbook", by Sophia Skoura, Crown Publishers, NYC, 1967
>
>This seems to be served most commonly (at least by Greeks) with fried
>eggplant, fried fish, and grilled rabbit. Roast or grilled chicken
>doesn't sound bad with it at all. For a more Persian approach to
>something I'd be vastly surprised to discover does not exist in the
>MidEast, substitute the juice of a large lemon for the 1/3 cup of vinegar.
This sauce is very like the Andalusian Ajo Blanco/White Garlic Soup.
It is made similarly, and close to the same proportions of
ingredients, with the addition of ground almonds. It is thinned with
water to a liquid consistency and served with green grapes or green
melon instead of olives. Some recipes include a little lemon juice.
After making it with vinegar only, i think it would be improved by a
little spritz...
I used about 2/3 of a lb of crust-free white bread (can't remember -
it was about the same amount of bread as above), 8 cloves garlic, 8
oz. ground almonds, 1 cup olive oil, 2 tsp or more salt, more than
1/4 cup white wine or sherry vinegar. Add two cups water while
blending. Then pour into a bowl and stir in 2 cups water. Chill and
serves with a handful of peeled and seeded green grapes in each
diner's bowl.
This dish seems moderately wide spread, perhaps because of the
Ottoman Empire? Does anyone have any idea of the history of it? Ajo
Blanco is a considered a very typical dish of Southern Spain, and i
haven't run across anything like it in modern Morocco - although i
think i'll go looking again in my stack of Moroccan cookbooks. I'm
real curious about its history...
Anahita
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:56:22 +0200
From: tgl at mailer.uni-marburg.de
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] blue food
<< Here is a blue sauce from Epulario (Falconwood Press edition. Anyone
have the original?):
"To make a skie colour sauce in summer. Take wild mulberies which grow
in the Hedges, and a few stamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper
all this with Veriuice and straine it." >>
"Per fare sapore celestro nel tempo de estate.
PJglia de le more saluatiche che nascono nelle fratte: & vn poco de
mandole bene piste con vno puoco de gengeuere: & queste cose
distemprarai con agresto: & passaralo per la stamegna."
(Opera noua chiamata Epulario ... Venetia 1518, xx)
Here is a Maestro Martino version:
"Sapor celeste de estate.
Piglia de li moroni salvatiche che nascono in le fratte, et un poche
de amandole ben piste, con un pocho di zenzevero. Et queste
cose distemperarai con agresto et passarale per la stamegnia."
(Faccioli 156; the other Martino versions are slightly different)
Th.
From: "ruadh" <ruadh at home.com>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] blue food
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 09:58:26 -0400
> I *think* it's Barbara Santich's book that lists the blue sauce, and says
> it's a "lovely midnight-blue jelly", but that recipe calls for American
> blackberries. Which, if nothing else, are not in season and not easily
> available frozen around here. Even if I were going to use her redaction,
> which I'm not.
>
> Margaret, who has the other colors pretty much figured out
103. Summertime Cerulean Blue Sauce
Sky-blue sauce for summer
http://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/706842.html
Take some of the wild blackberries that grow in hedgerows and some
thoroughly pounded almonds, with a little ginger. And moisten these things
with verjuice and strain through a sieve.
Toward the end of summer, when blackberries are at their best, this cerulean
blue sauce will add zest to your September meat dinners. The pectin in the
berries helps the sauce set to a lovely midnight-blue jelly that is a visual
foil and a delicious accompaniment to white meats such as veal and chicken.
1 quart (1 liter) blackberries
1/3 cup (50 g) unblanched almonds
2/3 cup verjuice, or a mixture of two parts cider vinegar to one part water
1/4-inch slice ginger, peeled
salt
Puree the blackberries in a food processor or food mill, and strain the
juice, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. In a mortar or in a
blender, grind the almonds and ginger, then mix with the blackberry juice.
Contact with the air will turn the mixture a dark blue.
Add the verjuice and strain once more. Season with salt to taste.
From: "Irmele von Gruensberg" <irmele at thebartholomews.com>
To: "Sca-Cooks" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 21:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Sca-cooks] yellow sauce
I just made Yellow Sauce (Poivre Jaunet or Aigret) as redacted
from Menagier de Paris in The Medieval Kitchen (recipe 109). It
was good but I didn't really know what to expect.
The sauce is quite yellow and has strong flavor of saffron, but I
may have overdone it a bit -- it's so hard to tell because the
quality varies. The ginger gives a bite but the flavor is well
balanced by the saffron and white wine vinegar, once I added
about 25% more vinegar (it was too bland at first tasting).
Irmele
From: "Olwen the Odd" <olwentheodd at hotmail.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Help with Garlic Sauce ?
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:19:40 +0000
> I'm in process with pre-prep and cooking for my first dayboard and I
>was wondering if any of you had made the Roasted Garlic Sauce from the
>"Medieval Kitchen" - number 99.
> "Garlic sauce for all meats: take garlic and cook it in the embers,
>then pound it thoroughly and add raw garlic and crumb of bread, and
>sweet spices, and broth; and mix everything together and boil it a
>little; and serve hot."
> What I would like to know is if it could be made ahead, and rewarmed
>(or served at room temp), and if so, can anyone tell me how long it
>keeps ? I did make some a while back, to check out the taste, but we
>ate it all that night. :-) I'd like to keep the last-minute cooking to
>a minimum, if I could
> Thanks everso
>
>Bethra
Greetings Bethra. I have made this. I made it ahead of time and made it at
a consistency of a dip which I served with meat and bread. I baked the
garlic as whole heads and popped them out of the casings when cooked. Mash
with a fork and mixed and heated it in a pot with some chicken broth to thin
and smoothen the texture then added the breadcrumbs to thicken it to desired
consistency. Then I chopped up some more garlic raw and if IIRC used
marjoram and basil but did not add those till after I took it off the stove.
When I make garlic dips, etc I usually make them the day before. I prefer to
serve garlic dips warm so I put them in a crock over a tea candle.
Olwen
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 09:35:41 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat at in-tch.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Help with Garlic Sauce ?
Oh, heck yes, it can be made ahead of time and reheated...it's
absolutely wonderful stuff, too. I was doing some experimenting with it
last fall? last winter? and ended up with a big batch of it that I kept
in my fridge and just spooned it onto slices of chicken or
whatever....yummmmm.
--Maire, serious, serious garlic fan
Bethra Spicewell wrote:
> I'm in process with pre-prep and cooking for my first dayboard and I
> was wondering if any of you had made the Roasted Garlic Sauce from the
> "Medieval Kitchen" - number 99.
> "Garlic sauce for all meats: take garlic and cook it in the embers,
> then pound it thoroughly and add raw garlic and crumb of bread, and
> sweet spices, and broth; and mix everything together and boil it a
> little; and serve hot."
> What I would like to know is if it could be made ahead, and rewarmed
> (or served at room temp), and if so, can anyone tell me how long it
> keeps ? I did make some a while back, to check out the taste, but we
> ate it all that night. :-) I'd like to keep the last-minute cooking to
> a minimum, if I could
>
> Bethra
> ___
> Christina Elisabeth de la Griffon Riant
> Barony of Stonemarche EK
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:55:12 -0700
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Seville Orange Juice
There's a 16th c. recipe for Seville Orange Juice Sauce, in Marx
Rumpolt's Ein New Kochbuch, that calls for the fresh juice of
Sauerpomeranzen (Seville oranges), sugar, and cinnamon, uncooked. I'd
like to serve it with roast pork legs at the Boar Hunt Feast.
However, fresh Seville Oranges are hard to find any time of year. I
have seen them at a local market, but they are only briefly
available, and aren't around now.
Anyone have any idea what i can use instead?
I have thought of:
diluted strained orange marmalade (since it's made of Seville oranges)
fresh orange juice and fresh grapefruit juice mixed