fruit-citrus-msg - 12/21/06
Period citrus fruits. Recipes. Oranges. Limes. Lemons.
NOTE: See also the files: fruits-msg, fruit-apples-msg, fruit-melons-msg, fruit-pears-msg, fruit-quinces-msg, desserts-msg, presrvd-lemons-msg, candied-peels-msg, berries-msg, strawberries-msg, plums-msg, Period-Fruit-art.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:08:39 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Julleran's Sugar/C
marilyn traber wrote:
> If memory serves me, limes we use today are a post period subspecies
> cross of lemon and key lime but i may be wrong, though in herbals a lime
> tree is mentioned, it is a temperate deciduous tree fond in england and
> the leaves are used.
As far as I know, there are three types of citrus fruit limes. Persian
limes and Tahitian limes are the Old World varieties, although the
Tahitian lime was discovered by Europeans more or less after the
discovery of the New World Lime, which is the Key lime. Persian limes
are pretty much the only period option, but you'd be most likely to find
them in Indian and Persian dishes. Persian limes are small, maybe two
inches across, roundish, and have a thin skin. (Key limes are even
smaller, spherical, with an even thinnner skin, which is almost yellow
when ripe). Tahiti limes, which have achieved the status thay have
reached in spite of being kinda insipid, but are generally seedless,
easy to peel, and travel extremely well, are large, oblong, and with the
ubiquitous bumps at either end.
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 97 20:26:34 UT
From: "Paul Louis" <pocopup at classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: SC - Julleran's Sugar/C
Paul Louis wrote:
> Try the key lime oil . It is very intense, and a little goes a long
> way.I have been using it in my Thai recipies. Great to know that I can use it
> in my SCA cooking too.
> Olga
Where did you get the oil at?
margali
I ordered it, from Sexton, I think. It is available in specialty stores. Brand
name is "Floribbean" Key Lime Savory Oil.
Olga
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 17:32:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANN1106 at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
I have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitter
orange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cut
the peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to the
juice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of a
lemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes before
straining and storing.
Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made from
Seville (Bitter) Oranges.
Audrey (aaparker at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 18:09:50 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
ANN1106 at aol.com wrote:
> I have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitter
> orange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cut
> the peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to the
> juice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of a
> lemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes before
> straining and storing.
> Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made from
> Seville (Bitter) Oranges.
> Audrey (aaparker at aol.com)
I have heard of it; while addition of some peel certainly helps with the
bitter aspect, the fact is that Seville oranges aren't nearly as sweet
as most of the varieties available to Americans. Probably a combination
of lemon and orange, with a bit of the orange peel, would be best.
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 19:00:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ladypeyton at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
>I believe I have seen a substitute for bitter orange
My copy of The Miami Spice Cookbook (Cuban cooking) which uses bitter oranges
in every third recipe says that straight lime juice is a suitable
replacement. Too Hot Tamales on Food TV Network say either a mixture of 1/2
orange juice & 1/2 grapefruit juice or 1/2 orange juice & 1/2 lime juice.
Lady Peyton
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 16:24:20 -0600
From: L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt <liontamr at ptd.net>
Subject: SC - A bit Bland--Now Jazzed up
>I have recently whipped up an almond tart, which is remarkably period,
>however that is the only remarkable thing about it. While I don't know
>much about English cooking in the late 1500's, I would love some...
>topping to use that would be period.
>
>Bogdan
Bogdan, here are a cuple of ideas for your use: Pickled lemons (recipe
follows) which is basically based on anecdotal evidence and adapted from two
other similar recipes, or preserved oranges from Good Huswife's Jewel
(Dawson). Both are English, and fit into your time frame. I can paraphrase
my redaction for the oranges but don't have my source right in front of me.
Devilish Idea: Use both since they have a similar process, and then
alternate the thin slices on the top of the almond tart, making a fan.
Beautiful! Now I feel inspired! BTW the syrup from both the recipes is
wonderful and makes a great beverage mixed with cold water. So that would
kill two birds with one stone at a forthcoming feast, Yes?
Hope that the oranges/lemons "make" the dish, the next time you try it. I'm
Sorry I saw your message after the offending tart had already been consumed!
Aoife
_______________________________________
Preserved Oranges:
Take four perfect oranges (I like tangerines, actually, because of flavor
and medieval-type size. Bonus: with a thin skin, they are far less bitter
after preserving. I'm not sure how thick the skin of period fruit would have
been, but some recipes such as the original in Dawson have us soaking the
fruit overnight to partially re-hydrate them ). Take two oranges that are
not so perfect. Wash them all. Juice the two imperfect oranges and set aside
the juice (discard the peel). The perfect oranges are treated thusly: Make a
small core-type hole in the stem end big enough to insert your little
finger, pulling out any white membrane attached to the core. Discard.
Holding the orange over a bowl to catch any juice, insert a paring knife and
twist it several times, to break up the membranes inside. Insert your little
finger into the hole and press gently towards the side walls, dislodging as
many seeds as possible. Allow the seeds and juice to flow into the bowl.
Now, take the tip of the knife and prick the outer skin all over fairly
closely together (these pricks do not show up in the finished product). Set
aside and repeat with the remaining three oranges.
On the rangetop, have two large pots of boiling water (2/3 full) going at a
rolling boil. Immerse all the oranges in the first pot. Return to a boil and
boil for five minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, and place in the second
pot. Discard the water in the first and boil it again with fresh water.
Continue shifting the oranges between pots until they are tender and the
skin is slightly transparant. A thin sliver of the skin should taste citrusy
but not bitter. As this point (which may take 5-7 boilings), set the oranges
aside in your drippings-bowl to drain.
In a clean saucepan, put one cup of water, all the orange juice, all the
drippings (strained of seeds), and 2 cups sugar. Beat in the white of one
egg with a whisk. Slowly bring to a boil and continue beating, until you are
sure no threads of egg white will form. Scum off any foam that rises (there
will be a lot---discard it or eat it as you please). Carefully lower the
oranges into the sugar syrup, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Turn the fire
off and let the oranges cool in the pot. They can be sealed airtight and
stored in the fridge, or they can be canned. I kept mine on the counter, in
a period method sealed with a waxed parchment on top, but it grew a beard of
white mold. When the mold was removed, however, the oranges were uneffected.
I can't keep them longer than a month (they're devoured), so I can't speak
to longevity.
That's the gist of the recipe that won me the Dessert category at Ice
Dragon, served with almond butter and crisp flaky pastry rounds . Hope it
works for you!
__________________________________
Pickled Lemons (adapted from Preserved Orenges, Dawson, and A Sallet of
Lemons from A book of Fruits and Flowers, and various anecdotal evidence
such as Elizabeth Ayreton's Food in Briton, etc.). This recipe copyright
1997 by L. Herr-Gelatt.
2 blemish-free lemons
Juice and zest of 1 lemon (no white)
1 cup white wine (sweet, like Rhine wine)
1 c. sugar
1/3 cup vinegar (I used home-made costmary/lemon verbena vinegar)
Cut a small round hole in the 2 lemons the size of the end of your little
finger. Remove the piece of peel. Insert a paring knife into the hole and
give it several twists to loosen and break the membranes. Insert little
finger and press gently against the flesh to try and loosen any pits. Remove
the pits that fall out, and reserve the draining lemon juice for syrup, below.
Gently bring to boil 1 quart of water in a suacepan. Lower lemons into the
pan and boil rapidly 5 minutes. Remove and drain. Repeat 3 more times with
fresh water (it is more efficient to have a pan heating while boiling in
another). Drain them well.
In a separate saucepan combine remaining ingredients (and the drained lemon
juice from above). Bring to a boil to combine, and turn off heat. When
lemons have been boiled in the 4 changes of water, put them (drained) into
the wine-syrup mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer approx.
15 minutes or until syrup volume has reduced by 1/3-1/2. Cool. Remove lemon
zest and reserve for another use (it is now candied).
Store in an airtight container. Slice lemons thinly or dice and use pieces
in salads.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 10:00:54 -0400
From: "Paul and Jillian Louis" <pocopup at email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Blood Oranges
I remember a bit of information about blood oranges from my teaching days,
unfortunately I do not have the sources from whence I picked this up,
Blood oranges were found by the crusaders on the island of Malta. Hence the
name of the Hollandaise variante that uses their juice " Sauce Maltaise"
They have a dark red interior when they are ripe. if they are harvested too
imature, the juice is bitter. When allowed to ripen on the tree their juice
is sweeter than your average navel orange.
If you wish to work in with blood orange juice in large quantities there is
a good product on the market from Assoline and Ting.
hope this helps,
Olga
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 14:58:31 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Blood Oranges
> The orange used in medieval times was the Seville, or sour orange, which I
> believe is still available in Europe. I use the sour Valencias off my mom's
> tree to approximate the taste.
>
> Renata
According to ye olde quick ref, oranges originate in China and were
transplanted into India from there, then from India into the Middle East.
Seville oranges (Citrus aurantium) were introduced into Spain by the Moors
and from there into Europe.
The Portuguese introduced a variety of sweet oranges from Japan about 1529.
I suspect, but do not know, that these were C. reticulata, which include the
mandarine orange, the tangerine and the Satsuma varieties.
C. sinensis, which are sweeter still and include Navel and Valencia oranges,
were introduced to Europe about 1635.
Given those points, your Valencias may actually be Sevilles.
I've been trying to find Sevilles locally without much luck. I wanted to
try my hand at making marmalade.
Bear
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:25:38 -0900
From: "Reia M. Chmielowski" <kareina at eagle.ptialaska.net>
Subject: RE: SC - Re: Pine Nut Confection -- One Last Time
>Limes were cultivated in the Indus Valley about 4000 BC and in China around
>700. So the question is, when did they get to Europe? Unfortunately, I
>don't have any other sources handy to cross reference.
According to _The Visual Food Encyclopedia_ published by Macmillan USA 1996
ISBN 0 -02-861006-7
"The lime tree was brought to France and Italy by the Crusaders in the 13th
Century." It doesn't happen to cite its source, but then encyclopedias
often don't within articles...
- --Kareina
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 09:29:43 +0000
From: Robyn Probert <robyn.probert at lawpoint.com.au>
Subject: re: SC - Re: Limes
At 08:03 06/01/1999 -0700, Gwen-Cat wrote re limes:
>Citron shel uberzogen
>Limone shel uberzogen
>
>I translate this as Lemon peel coated and Lime peel coated...
I agree that Limone is lemon, but I think Citron is likley to be Citron -
another member of the citrus family. The fruit is pale green, about the
size and shape of an avacodo but with *very* thick citrus skin (almost the
entire fruit). The candied peel/fruit is still used in many German and
Italian recipies - I buy it from the deli. It has a great taste, similar to
but distinct from candied lemon peel.
Rowan
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 10:47:40 -0700 (MST)
From: grasse at mscd.edu
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Limes
Grettings again,
I have another question before I try to answer further... If the Spanish
(whom I would consider European) introduced the lime to the west Indies -
where did they get it from?
As promised I did some further rummaging in Rumpolt, as well as in Cerruti,
Gerard, and some others.
Rumpolt (as I am sure you are familiar with) has (in the section on sauces?
- - have only had him 2 {filled with mundane and prior commitments} weeks,
so
I have not yet explored him fully) 2 recipes specific to Zitron and 1 for
Limonien (I double checked the spellings he uses, my original spellings
were in error.)
In my translation I will use the word lemon, though for the argument one
could also use the word citron - Marx does not speak of cooking either and
I do not know if raw citron is (was?) palatable?
#6 uses "breit geschnitten zitron mit weissem zucker bestrauet/ fein gut
und wohl geschmack" (thick?) cut lemons sprinkled with white sugar/ fine
good and well tasty.
#7 uses "klein gehackt zitron mit weissem zucker der wohl gestossen ist
abgemacht"
small (finely) chopped lemon seasoned with well crushed white sugar.
#23 states "nim saur frishe limonien wals gie das sie weich werden/
schneidt sie von einander und druck den saft herauss/ tue die kern davon/
mach ab mit zimmet und zucker/ so ists gut un wohlgeschmack/ du kanst auch
solchen saft der lecker (?sorry can't read my scribbles this morning) ist
sieden lassen mit gelautertem zucker un wen er fein dick gesotten so kan
man zum braten brauchen
My interpretation is (though for arguments sake insert lemon instead of
lime if you wish)
take sour limes, roll (I am guessing walg equates to welz - to roll-
rolling on the counter ) so they become soft, cut them apart and squeeze
the juice from them, remove the seeds, then season with cinnamon and sugar
so that it is good and tasty. You can also also take such (tasty?) juice
(before or after seasoning I can't tell) and simmer it with (gelaeutertem -
another I'm not sure word) sugar and when it has become fine and thick so
use it for a roast. I assume to accompany like a jelled sauce.
I would love to experiment with the above recipies using lemons, limes and
citrons, to see how they react and taste using his techniques, but I have
no clue where in Denver (CO, US) to obtain fresh citron...
My thought being that if fresh citron is inedible raw chopped with sugar
then Zitron should equate to Lemon, but the cooked thickened stuff would
probably taste well made with either lemon or lime, so it would probably
not prove anything. (besides I still wouldn't know how it would taste with
period grown lemons/citrons/limes...)
The other thing that led me to make the equations I have made (Zitron =
lemon; Limionen = lime) rather than Zitron = citron and Limione = lemon is
that Limione =lemon is using English words; (the modern German is Zitrone
= lemon; Limone/Limette = lime. ) Rumpolt is writing German, when he
speaks of preparing Star he is not writing of cooking celestial bodies but
of using starling - a small domestic song bird. Most of the ingredients he
uses sound out into the modern German words. Certainly not definitive
proof, but that is how I arrived at my assumption.
I am not aware of a German OED (OGD??? ;-)) but if one is found I would be
thrilled! I believe the main branch of the local library has some middle
German reference books, and I will endeavor to visit them soon.
Gwen-Cat
Caerthe
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 13:37:39 -0700
From: Ronda Del Boccio <Serian at plinet.com>
Subject: SC - Limes -- from EB
Limes:
Limes probably originated in the Indonesian archipelago or the nearby
mainland of Asia. The Arabs may have taken limes, as well as lemons, from
India to the eastern Mediterranean countries and Africa around AD 1000.
Limes were introduced to the western Mediterranean countries by returning
crusaders in the 12th and 13th centuries. Columbus took citrus-fruit seed,
probably including limes, to the West Indies on his second voyage in 1493,
and the trees soon became widely distributed in the West Indies, Mexico,
and Florida.
Copyright 1994-1998 Encyclopaedia Britannica
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 12:42:34 -0800
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: SC - Citrus Fruit History (long)
I have just been reading the first chapter of a multi-volume work called
_The Citrus Industry_, which goes into considerable detail about what the
evidence is on what citrus fruit came into use when and where. This is a
summary of its conclusions.
The author of this chapter, Herbert John Webber, concludes that all citrus
are native to southern Asia and the Malay Archipelago. Cultivated citrus go
way back in China; the earliest mention he knows of concerns tribute
(oranges and pummeloes) given to an emperor around 2200 B.C. A Chinese book
on oranges written in 1178 A.D. describes some twenty-seven varieties of
sweet, sour, and mandarin oranges, as well as kumquats and citrons.
The citron seems to be the first citrus fruit known in the West, having
become established in Persia by around 500 B.C. and spreading slowly around
the eastern end of the Mediterranean from there. The Romans of the first