armor-chklst-msg - 9/23/98
Things to check on your armor before heading to an SCA event or war.
NOTE: See also these files: rattan-msg, duct-tape-msg, armorers-lst, armor-msg,
chainmail-msg, p-armor-msg, P-stories-msg, melee-tactics-art.
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Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
mark.s.harris at motorola.com stefan at florilegium.org
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Subject: ANST - Pre-War Preps
Date: Wed, 04 Mar 98 11:13:04 MST
From: Dennis Grace <amazing at mail.utexas.edu>
To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG, ansteorra-armored-combat at Ansteorra.ORG
Salut, Cozyns
Lyonel aisai.
Many thanks to Erik Wulfriksson (et al.) for the Gulf War Checklist. I'd
like to add to that a discussion of a few preparations our bold Ansteorran
troops should make prior to departing for the War.
Armor straps. Check over every strip of leather or canvvas holding on your
armor. If you have weak, stressed straps, now's the time to replace
them--even the ones that have miraculously held for a year or more in an
obviously weakened condition. You know Murphy's law--that strap's just
been waiting to get you in the middle of a battle a thousand miles from
home.
Speed rivets. Give your harness the once over. Replace any
questionable-looking rivets.
Thrusting tips. Verify that your thrusting tips meet the size,
compression, and marking standards. If you've constructed a new spear or
glaive for the war, have a qualified marshall check it before you go. If
your thrusters are too stiff, you may have over-taped them (common
problem). Try splitting the sides.
Swords. Grab your sword by the handgrip and near the sword tip. If you
can twist the sword, it's broomed under the tape. Replace it. Breaking
your sword over the first enemy you encounter on the battlefield can really
screw up your day. Also, have a spare sword rounded, taped up, and ready
to go (just in case you break one at the war).
Basket hilts. Check the connectors holding hilt to sword. I strongly
recommend replacing any hardware with strapping tape. I tape my hilts
on--sixteen wraps of strapping tape covered with a layer of vinyl electric
tape to keep out the elements. This method is vastly superior to any
combination of hose clamps and bolts. I've never had a hilt break loose
during a war or tournament. My swords *always* outlast the tape.
Shields. Check the edging for splits--if it's split, replace it or edge
over it with a wider hose. Check the cord/strapping holding on your edge
to make sure it's not worn through anywhere. Verify that your arm-strap,
handle, and handguard are intact and that their rivets are in good repair.
Authorizations. Get your authorizations *before* you go to the war.
Remember, if you're authorized for armored combat, that doesn't mean you're
authorized for archery or pultruded fibreglas spear.
Personal hygiene. I don't want to sound too parental here, but be sure you
clip your fingernails and toenails before you go. Boots and gloves can
become distractingly uncomfortable in a long day's fighting if your nails
are just a little too long.
lo vostre por vos servir
Sir Lyonel Oliver Grace
Subject: Re: ANST - Pre-War Preps
Date: Sat, 07 Mar 98 00:40:27 MST
From: "James Crouchet" <jtc at io.com>
To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG
I have a question and some suggestions.
> Speed rivets. Give your harness the once over. Replace any
> questionable-looking rivets.
What is a speed rivet?
Additional suggestions for archers:
Test your quiver before you go. Everyone seems to wait to the last
minute on this one, and then some folks end up with a quiver that
drags the ground or is easily tumped over. What happens if
you squat down with a full quiver? Can you run with it on? Remember,
you cannot pick up an arrow once it hits the field, so a spilled
quiver ends that battle for you. I remember they made us turn our
arrows POINT UP year before last, so make sure your quiver is stable
with your arrows upside down too.
If you are using wooden shafts and removable heads (Baldar Blunts,
Thistle Missile, Crane Break) make some extra shafts. Get them
completely preped (fletch, nock, tape shaft) except for the head.
When your arrows get broken you can use the time between battles to
slap those heads onto a new shaft so you keep a full compliment of
arrows. Don't forget the extra tape to do the attaching.
Put your name and kingdom on all your arrows. It is the surest way to
get them all back. I also number each arrow so if I loan some out
then one or more are lost we know whether to look where I was
shooting or where the other guy was shooting.
Inspect all your arrows before you pack them. No need taking damaged
arrows. Also, check the tape on the shaft to make sure it has not
dried out and started to peel off. Replace any screwed up feathers,
broken nocks, bad shafts, etc.
Get an extra bow string. Even if you have a brand new one, battle
conditions, armor mishaps and even packing miscalculations can result
in a cut bowstring and you won't find a replacement on merchant row.
Remember, archers need 2 athorizations -- combat archery and armored
combat. If you forget to get that armored combat authorization they
will not even let you on the field, even if you plan to wear a white
diamond and be non-contact.
Don Dore
Subject: Re: ANST - Pre-War Preps
Date: Sat, 07 Mar 98 12:56:20 MST
From: Dennis and/or Dory Grace <amazing at mail.utexas.edu>
To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG
Salut, Cozyns.
Lyonel aisai.
In response to my suggestion:
>>> Speed rivets. Give your harness the once over. Replace any
>>> questionable-looking rivets.
Don Christian Dore' asks:
>>What is a speed rivet?
And Mayne de la Croix responds:
>A Speed rivet is basically a screw together rivet. I know you can get
>them at Tandy Leather Stores. They are available at other locations I am
>sure, but I can't think of where right now. Most fighters I know have an
>armor repair kit they take with them just about everywhere, even when not
>fighting you can make lots of friends by fixing THEIR armor.
Um, well, not exactly what I had in mind. In my experience, the two-piece
screw-together rivets are usually called post-and-screw rivets or Chicago
screws. If you use Chicago screws, I suggest you take along a bottle of
Loc-Tite to keep them from working themselves loose. Also, most hardware
stores carry these critters.
When I said "speed rivets," I meant the hollow, two piece rivets that you
hammer together (also available--in a range of sizes--from Tandy Leather
stores and most tack and saddle stores). They're useful for holding
leather to leather or leather to metal. For these, you need a hammer and
an anvil of sorts (for mobile repairs, I usually take along a ball-pean
hammer and a John Henry--I use the head of the John Henry as my anvil for
replacing speed rivets).
lo vostre por vos servir
Sir Lyonel Oliver Grace
<the end>