cl-Spain-msg - 12/22/09
Clothing of medieval Spain.
NOTE: See also the files: cl-Moorish-msg, cl-Celts-msg, clothing-books-msg, corsets-msg, hoops-msg, patterns-msg, fd-Spain-msg, Spain-msg.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: jdejesus at eden.rutgers.edu (Ramirez)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish Personna
Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:52:21 -0400
Organization: Rutgers University
dpirko at uoguelph.ca (Denise Pirko) writes:
>Greetings from Katje
>A friend of mine is trying to find information so she can develop a
>spanish personna. Unfortunately we have a rather pitiful library here at
>the University of Guelph, so I am trying to get names of books on names
>and dress, mostly for the time after 1300, so we can use the wonderful
>interlibrary loan system.
>Katje
While I don't have a suggestion for a name book, I should point out that the name will vary greatly depending on wether she intends to be from southern Spain (primarily Muslim) or Northern Spain (Primarily Christian). But this will
also vary by the ecact time period your friends persona chooses because between
the 9th and 15th centuries Muslim influence in Spain varies.
As for costuming I would reccomend this book:
106 RUTGERS UNIVERSITY - IRIS LIBRARY SYSTEM - ALL *TITLE SEARCH
Citation 1 of 1
AUTHOR Anderson, Ruth Matilda.
TITLE Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 / by Ruth Matilda Anderson.
PUBLISHER New York : Hispanic Society of America, 1979.
DESCRIP x, 293 p. : ill. ; 29 cm.
SERIES Hispanic notes & monographs, essays, studies, and brief biographies :
Peninsular series
NOTES Includes index. * Bibliography: p. 265-269.
SUBJECTS Costume -- Spain -- History. * Costume -- Portugal -- History.
LC CARD 78066880
ISBN 0875351263
RLIN ID G81-B764
While on the late end, (you asked for post 1300) It is very thourough.
It gives various close ups of the garments from period artwork as well as
descriptions of the garments as well. Althogh it primarily deals with Christian
fashin it does have some Muslim fashions as well.
-In Service,
Julio DeJesus
Anibal Rivera Ramirez DeJesus
From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish Garb
Date: 11 Jul 1996 04:55:07 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
In article <4s1vqu$e9o at newsbf02.news.aol.com>,
Shire2308 <shire2308 at aol.com> wrote:
>I live in Toledo, the capital of Espana. It is the first half of the 16th
>Century. Unfortunately, I am having a difficult time making clothing for
>myself because I can not seem to find good patterns (or sources). Can
>anyone help me?
>
>Gracias,
>Cristina Eulalia
Patterns will be hard to find for your period; you'll have to work them out
for yourself. Two books which should be useful for your period are:
Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic Society of America.
1979.
Bernis Madrazo, Carmen Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos.
Serie Artes y Artista. Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de
Investiations Cientificas. Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los
Hombres.)
(I don't guarantee that all information is correctly transcribed for that
last one, except for author and title. High School Spainsh was a LONG time
ago.)
These books are probably out of print, but are probably available through ILL.
Audelindis de Rheims
From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish research
Date: 30 Oct 1996 18:28:54 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
JoAnne <jo_anne at abm.com> wrote:
>If there is anyone out there who could point me the right direction in
>locating any books on Spanish garb from around the year 1500. I had found
>a really great book called the "Hispanic costume 14?? to 15??" but it's
>out of print so I can't get it. any other titles would be great.
>Dona Lucia de Valencia
I assume you found Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 by Ruth Matilda Anderson,
copyright 1979. Another book to try for is: Historic Costume - A
Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe, by Francis Kelly and Rudolph
Schwabe. copyright 1929-1968, reprinted 1988. It begins with 1490 AD and
includes some Spanish costume.
=Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net)
From: TDLEC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:57:32 -0500 (EST)
To: markh at risc.sps.mot.com
Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD
I got this in the mail today, not to sure what to do with it though. I guess
go look it up.
bruce horton
----
Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic Society of America.
1979.
Bernis Madrazo, Carmen Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos.
Serie Artes y Artista. Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de
Investiations Cientificas. Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los
Hombres.)
From: ladyval at aol.com (Lady Val)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD
Date: 26 Jan 1997 00:37:25 GMT
Bruce Horton, tdlec at aol.com (TDLEC) asked:
>I'm new to SCA and want to know more on the Torquemada period 1400-1500,
>the Inquisition and Spanish Court Costumes for men.
My SCA persona is Spanish, and I have an interest in the period to which
you refer. I found a wonderful book by Ruth Matilda Anderson entitled
HISPANIC COSTUME 1480-1530 with 569 illustrations in black and white and 8
in foll color.
I dont remember where I got the book, but I believe I ordered it from some
mail order catalogue of historical books. It is published by Halliday
Lithograph, copyright 1979 by the Hispanic Society of America, New York.
It has the first half of the book divided into a section "Men and their
Dress Occasions" and the entire book is made up of small sections of
paintings and statues with notes about each type of clothing for men and
women both. It has excellent documentation of the year and person who
wore that particular article of clothing. Within each section there are
sections entitled "Hair Styles" and another one "Headgear" down to
"Footwear."
I hope you could locate this book and it would be helpful to you. I have
learned a lot from the notes in the book.
H E Valencia Carlota Maria de Granada
(16th century Spanish noblewoman in the court of Catherine of Aragon,
first wife of Henry VIII)
mka - Janice Terrell
email - Lady Val at aol.com
From: N.D. Wederstrandt <nweders at mail.utexas.edu>
Newsgroups: austin.org.sca
Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb
The Dutch were controlled by the Spanish in the latter part of the 17th
century. Philip II, husband to Mary Tudor, was King (emperor) over them.
So it would be logical and appropriate for you to find heavy Spanish
influence on the Dutch. (and vice versa)
It's fun to note that the Dutch were thorns in Spain's side during this time.
As another side note there is a period (1650+ Spanish Tailor's book that
has been reproduced with patterns and such. It's pretty cool.
Clare
Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 14:56:36 MST
From: "N.D. Wederstrandt" <nweders at mail.utexas.edu>
To: bryn-gwlad at Ansteorra.ORG
It took a second but I found the info in the UT Online Catalog.
The name of the book is The "Tailor's Pattern Book: 1589 facsimile" by Juan
de Alcega, Published by Carlton, Bedford, 1979. It is translated into
English. ISBN # is 905585065
It's a very neat book so if you can find it you should have fun!
ALso Janet Arnold's books on English costuming have some good tips on
construction of doublets and such.
Clare
Subject: Re: Welshmen in Sideless Sircoats/Men in Spain
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:00:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Grace Morris <gmorris at cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>
To: Robert J Welenc <rjwelenc at erols.com>
CC: Atlantia at atlantia.sca.org
Sources to Help You in the Construction of the Clothing of
13th Century Spain from Mistress Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte
(sorry, I can't underline in this stupid system we have...)
Anderson, Ruth Matilda. (1942). "Pleated Headresses of Castilla and
Leon (12th and 13th Centuries)". In Notes Hispanic, 1942,
p.50-75.excellent
Bernis (Madroza), Carmen. (1954). "Tapiceria Hispano Musulmana (Siglos
IX-XI)." Archivo Espanol de Arte, 27, p.189-211.
__________________. (1956). oIndumetaria Medieval Espanola. Madrid:
Institute Diego Velasquez. through late 15th c.
__________________. (1956). Tapiceria Hispano-Musulmana (Siglos XII y
XIV). Archivo Espanol de Arte, 29, p.95-115.
__________________. (1970). La Moda y las Imagenes Goticas de la
Virgen. Claves Para su Fechacion. Archivo Espanol de
Arte, 43, p.193-218. timelines for the evolution of the
basic camica, saya
Canderra y Solano, d. Valentin. (1864). Iconagrafia Espanola-
Colleccion de Retratos, Estatuas, Mausoleos y Demas
Monumentos Inededitos de Reyes, Reines, Grandes Capitanes,
Escritores, Etc. desde el Siglio XI hasta el VII. Madrid: Imprenta de
Don Romon Campuzano. surpisingly accurate source, drawings from tombs
Lovillo, Jose Guerrero. (1949). Las Cantigas: estudio arqueolologico
des sus miniaturas. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velasquez. good
categorization of clothing types, but questionable because of
pattern conjecture...also weapons, architecture, clerical vestments
(also look in various art books, too many to list here!)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:11:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gabrielle Bombard <KiaraPanther at excite.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: footwear help
I just picked up this really cool book from the library called Hispanic
Costume 1480-1535 (I think). It has a whole section on footwear using
period paintings and sculptures as examples. It would be a good place to
start, as Italy and Spain seemed to exchange ideas rapidly.
--Kiara
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:54:51 -0400
From: Carol Thomas <scbooks at neca.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!
I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it
is out of print. You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed.
This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns.
JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile
Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press)
This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are
like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings
showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions. The entire
manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the
drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make
doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles,
bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished
garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8
x 11.
Price: $39.95
Carllein
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 05:07:38 -0700
From: Mary Hysong <ladymari at cybertrails.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!
Carol Thomas wrote:
> I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it
> is out of print. You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed.
>
> This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns.
>
> JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589:
this is a great book for pattern making if you have a clue what the
finished garment should look like ;-) I did discover that if you traced
off the patterns given onto graph paper, 10 sguares to the inch, then
blow it up so each square becomes an inch, it will pretty much give you
a full size pattern that you can then tailor to the person. I used them
several years ago to make some things for my girls.
Mairi, Atenveldt.
PS the publisher claims that the Spanish ell is the same size as a
modern meter.
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:24:44 EDT
From: "Liz Rose" <rosamorta at hotmail.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!
I have this book and it is fantastic (okay, mundanely I'm a professional
tailor and costumer, so this is the Holy Grail to me).A tip on using this
book - read the intro and make a chart of measurements (an "L" equals, etc.)
and buy pattern paper with a graph pre-printed. An excellent companion book
is "Patterns of Fashion" by Janet Arnold ISBN 0-333-38284-6. This will
explain period construction as well as give a clue on how to actually use
the patterns in the tailor's book.
Elisabeta Rosa d'Morta
>JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile
>Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press)
>This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are
>like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings
>showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions. The entire
>manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the
>drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make
>doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles,
>bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished
>garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8
>x 11.
>Price: $39.95
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:03:59 -0700
From: Lynn Meyer <lmeyer at netbox.com>
To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!
In general, you could try the SCA-Garb list -- info on how to subscribe
should be in one of the two lists of SCA lists,
http://lists.ansteorra.org/sca-faq.html#sec2.1 and
http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html .
They've given a few websites with Spanish paintings and such,
just recently while discussing plaids, and undoubtedly know more websites.
In particular:
_Hispanic Costume 1480 -1530_ by Ruth Matilda Anderson,
ISBN 0875351263, published by Hispanic Society of America,
although I too have heard it's out of print.
The Alcega, from 1589 plus modern material discussing it.
This should still be in print; I got it at Barnes & Noble
a couple years ago.
If you're willing to go to more trouble, there are also some
sources in Spanish (with lots of photos of primary sources):
Trajes y Modas en la Espana de los Reyes Catolicos -- I. Las Mujeres
and (ditto) -- II. Los Hombres
[with a tilde, ~, over the n in Espana, and an accent mark over the
first o in Catolicos]
[roughly, "Clothing and Fashion in the Spain of the Catholic Kings",
that is, Ferdinand and Isabella -- "I. The Women", "II. The Men"]
both by Carmen Bernis,
part of the Artes Y Artistas series of the Instituto Diego Velazquez,
Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, Spain;
1978 for Las Mujeres, which is ISBN 84-00-03781-2
1979 for Los Hombres, ISBN 84-00-04453-3.
Copyright by Instituto Diego Velazquez, but apparently printed by
Graficas Condor, S.A., Sanchez Pacheco, 81, Madrid, Spain.
I managed to order them directly from Spain some years ago, through
a friend of a friend who wrote the letter for me in Spanish. Since then
I've been told that a lot of museums can handle English, though,
so if they're still in print, you might be able to order them by
simply writing in English.
The same author also wrote an earlier book that I photocopied from
the Univ. of Calif. Berkeley library some years ago, since it was
out of print -- I'd be delighted to buy an original if one turned up,
but I'm not holding my breath --
Indumentaria Medieval Espanola [with a tilde over the n in Espanola]
[roughly, "Medieval Spanish Clothing"],
by Carmen Bernis Madrazo,
Instituto Diego Velazquez,
Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, 1955.
Spanish clothing is fun! If you like wearing something just a bit
different from others, but absolutely documentable, Spanish has
a wealth of choices :-)
Halima de la Lucha, of Spanish persona myself
P.S. There's a MedievalSpain list on eGroups your husband might enjoy.
modern: Lynn Meyer, Silicon Valley, northern CA, USA
SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West
<LMeyer at netbox.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:27:45 -0500
From: "Dr. Grace Morris" <gmorris at cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!
What time period?
There are 2 books and one article in English. The Alcega is very late
period, and you need to have your "Elizabethan" skills in order to use
it. The Anderson is easier, but also covers a limited time period. I
have an extensive bibliography, but everything is in Spanish. Narrowing
things down would help.
Jessamyn di Piemonte
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 21:30:26 -0700
From: Lynn Meyer <lmeyer at netbox.com>
Subject: [SCA-AS] Re: Links: Costuming (Lis)
To: artssciences at lists.gallowglass.org, "Lis" <liontamr at ptd.net>
Thank you for another wonderful list of links, Dame Aoife! I really
enjoy these.
I have a couple of comments on this most recent one:
<huge snip>
<<< Spain, the Early Years:
Costume of the Visigoths, Mozarabes, and the Northern Christian Kingdoms
by Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte Originally printed in Seams Like Old
Times, Issue #18
http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/oak/13/spain.htm
(Site Excerpt) Early Spanish costume has not been widely explored; the
casual browser will find little mention of this period in general sources on
costume, and little iconographic evidence in general, or even somewhat
specific art sources. What few reference works we have are in Spanish, and
to find pictorial representations often requires a major library. The
search, however, is worth the trouble, for what emerges is a body of unique
garments, largely unknown and usually quite foreign to the traditions of the
rest of Western Europe. >>>
Mistress Jessamyn now has her own website about early
Spanish costume,
http://www.jessamynscloset.com
which contains much more information than this earlier article.
-- including color pictures of original sources.
Halima
From: "Artemisia" <kerribernhard at comcast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish garb
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 07:14:55 -0700
"Slohan469" <slohan469 at aol.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of
> spanish garb
My recommendaton is a book:
Hispanic Costume 1480 - 1530, by Ruth Anderson ISBN 0875351263
From: bookshop at charter.net (medievalbooks)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish garb
Date: 24 Sep 2004 14:09:22 -0700
Another author on Spanish garb as well as lace making is Florence
Lewis May published by the Hispanic Society in the 1930's-50's. Her
books are scarce as hen's teeth to get hold of tho.
Gwyneth ui ingean Mhathghamhna
The Haunted Bookshop
From: clevin at ripco.com (Craig Levin)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish garb
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:16:05 +0000 (UTC)
Slohan469 <slohan469 at aol.com> wrote:
>Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of
>spanish garb
If you're interested in the Age of Exploration, I do. Please feel
free to visit my list of references for people building Iberian
personae at:
http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/list.html
Pedro
--
http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/index.html
clevin at ripco.com
Craig Levin Librarians Rule: Oook!
From: "Cynthia Gee" <goldndog at earthlink.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Spanish garb
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 15:14:00 GMT
Juan de Alcega, a master tailor, was granted licence to print a book of his
patterns, and did so in 1589. The book is currently making the rounds. You
can view parts of it at <vertetsable.com>, and it's not a very expensive
purchase.
~Don Andrew Blake
To: gleannabhann at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Hispanic Costume Book
Posted by: "Malinda" duchessmalinda2004 at yahoo.com duchessmalinda2004
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:08 pm ((PST))
I just got a book in the mail I have wanted for ages! While doing research for my book, "Daily Living In Renaissance Spain," I frequently consulted a book at U of A called "Hispanic Costume." by Ruth Anderson, printed in 1979. The Poison Pen Press obtained two boxes of this book and I was able to purchase one.
They still have a few more copies available if anyone is interested. It is a valuable reference not just for those interested in Renaissance Spain, but for all of Europe. The total was $31 and that was with shipping. It is a steal!
Malinda
www.poisonpenpress.com
<the end>