patterns-msg – 1/9/08
Sources for clothing patterns. Altering mundane patterns.
NOTE: See also the files: clothing-FAQ, clothing-bib, clothing-books-msg, cotehardies-msg, Houppelande-art, sewing-msg, clothng-forms-msg.
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NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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Gentle lords and ladies,
The best pattern I have found for a coif/hood for rapier combat is
the head for the rabbit/cat/bear costume (it comes in adult sizes)
that Simplicity makes. I recommend adding a few inches to the
overlap under the chin and a collar to tuck it securely into
the jacket or vest. I hope this helps.
Gwenhwyfar Lann ni Rodhri (Jennifer H. Varner) <Z4646595 at SFAUSTIN.BITNET>
From: daemon at tut.cis.ohio-state.edu (Admin)
Date: 7 May 90 08:55:30 GMT
Organization: Society for Creative Anachronism
Greetings to those Gentles on the Rialto.
Gloves:
Milady, An Excellent Pattern Exists, It is a Vogue Pattern in a Prom
accesories Set, I have seen the pattern echoed ina pattern set given to me on
period Gloves, so it is a reasonable one, Gloves having beena nemesis of mine
for years...
-Wraith
Carolingia, East Kingdom.
A.S. (God only knows)
From: EXPOTECH at applelink.apple.com ("Expotech, Aimee Moran,VCA")
Date: 11 Jul 90 03:54:00 GMT
Organization: Society for Creative Anachronism
Greetings to the Rialto from Gwynnyd of York, on this, the Tenth day of July.
Costumer news flash!
Both McCalls and Butterick currently have patterns that are nearly perfect
Tudor and Elizabethan dresses. The seaming on these is *not* princess. They
both have the proper straight seams up the side-fronts with stomacher-like
pieces in the center.
Butterick 4563, has a long pointed front stomacher, suitable for Elizabethan
styles. McCalls 3490 has a shorter point in front like the earlier Tudor
styles. Both come in three-size sets,for maximum group use.
To make usable, shorten the waist to natural waistline, square the neckline,
and fill in the back (which is a deep V in both paterns). Skirts can be used
as they are. Add gorp (i.e.-suitable trim), lace up the back or sides,
and voila - late period costume! even for the pattern drafting impaired
like me.
I made mine with plastic needlepoint canvas as the stiffening in the stomacher
- worked great. Just about the right amount of flex. Has holes for
ventilation. Can be washed. Who could ask for more? (OK, so I promise never
to enter the plastic in the A&S competitions.)
In service to the Society (if not necessarily THE DREAM(tm)), I remain
Gwynnyd of York Carol Lynn
Household of the Foundering Fen Grosse Pointe Park, MI
Middle expotech at applelink.apple.com
From: data at er3.rutgers.edu (Rosemary Goodheart)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Medieval Pattern Needed!!
Date: 11 Oct 1994 03:40:23 -0400
Organization: Rutgers University
craig_polson at radius.com (Craig Polson) writes:
>As an aside, what do people think of the McCall's pattern #6096? Good as
>is? Needs modifications? Really lame? Just curious....(although one
>problem I see already is that it's called Medieval Magic when the outfits
>seem to me like they're more renaissance...) Thanks!
>-Willow (Craig's wife)
I use this pattern myself, and you're right, it's more Elizabethan than anythinanything else! (At least the dress with the puffs on top of the sleeves
is.) If you are using this dress, here are the alterations I recommend:
1) The pattern is cut very large, so take it in to fit your body. And
forget the boning... it's painful and does absolutely nothing.
2) If you want a bum roll, don't use the one in the pattern; it's
shaped wrong. Bum rolls should be crescent-shaped.
3) The skirt is big enough to put a farthingale (hoop skirt) under.
4) Drop the neckline in the front by determining where the shoulders
join the front, then scooping down lower in the area where the shoulders
_don't_ touch the front. (This takes some effort; make a practice one first)
5) With a _lot_ of effort you can slash the sleeves...It looks
incredible, but will take you forever.
6) Consider splitting the skirt down the front and wearing with a fancy
underskirt. Just use the skirt part of the pattern to make the underskirt,
with a drawstring waist, and only use your facy fabric for the front panel.
You can save lots of money by using cheap fabric in the back of the underskirt,
where no one will ever see it.
By the way, if anyone in the Settmour Swamp area in the East Kingdom has seen
a lady in a black and red, slashed sleeved, hoop-skirted Elizabethan gown,
that was me, and I used this pattern to make the dress!
Good luck!!
-Rosemary
--
Rosemary Goodheart YYY YYY
data at eden.rutgers.edu | |YYYYY| |
at )--->----;----- |_|__n__|_|
From: nataliae at aol.com (Natalia E)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Cloaks
Date: 15 Nov 1994 22:45:04 -0500
There is a Very Easy Very Vogue 7110 pattern for a woman's cloak, which
works perfectly fine for a simple cloak pattern. I made both my lord's
and my own cloak from it and I just learned how to sew this year. Try it
out and you might find it will be just right. Good luck.
Nataliia
From: connect at aol.com (CONNECT)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: REQ: Easy Garb Patterns
Date: 30 Nov 1994 10:00:25 -0500
debra at hp1.ep.cursci.com (Debra Cebulski) writes:
I am a newbie in the Barony of Carolingia and I need some easy patterns
(Vogue, Simplicity, etc.) for garb.
---
Good My Lady,
I can not give you specific pattern numbers, but hopefully can offer you
some help in finding what you need. If you just want simple looking garb,
try this: find a skirt pattern that is very full, like a full circle.
Usually, this is done with what is called a gore. The pattern piece is cut
to look like an A-shape if you fold it out flat. Next, find a peasant
blouse pattern, either as a peasant blouse pattern or as a clown costume.
Just cut off the clown pattern at the hip.
This gets you the shirt and skirt. If you want a bodice, you can make one
by altering a vest pattern, but that can be trickier. It should be doable
by a beginner, but you need to be clear on what you're doing, because
you'll be altering the lines a little.(Shortening the length of the vest,
possibly, depending on the pattern you buy.) You can't use darts if you
want to be authentic.
Another thing to take into account, don't buy any prints. Try to stick
with cotton blends in solids, or in patterns that are actually woven into
the fabric. Muslin is good, and cheap too. <grin> Wash everything before
you cut, too.
If you're looking for male garb, there's a set of instructions available
from a place called Rainments. The pattern is called Drafting and
Constructing a Simple Doublet and Trunkhose of the Spanish Renaissance. I
don't know the complexity level of this pattern, but perhaps someone else
knows. Rainments can be reached via email at 72437.674 at compuserve.com.
Another book I'd recommend is Elizabethan Costuming for 1550-1580 by Janet
Winter and Carolyn Savoy. This is assuming you're interested in late
SCA-period clothing. If not, just ignore this. <grin>
Best of luck to you...I am coming off the newbie stage to just the
beginner. ;)
Pattie Rayl
From: mcfee at apsicc.aps.edu (Karl von Schattenburg / Chuck Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Puffy sleeves
Date: 6 Dec 1994 05:14:07 GMT
Organization: Albuquerque Public Schools, Albuquerque, NM, USA
In article <abasu.786662616 at atl1>, abasu at atl1.america.net (Asok K. Basu) writes:
>Hi, I'm trying to get shirts that have the puffy sleeves
>common in Shakespearean plays and other plays of
>the time. I think they're called Juliette sleeves. Specifically, I
>need white and black colors, and maybe green and brown. If you've
>seen the movie "Interview with the Vampire", then you'll know
>what kind of shirts I'm talking about. I'd prefer they have real
>buttons, instead of threading for lacing the shirt up. If anyone has any
>information about where I can get this type of clothing, please let me know.
>My e-mail address is : abasu at america.net. Thank you.
Greetings and Salutations!
It's unclear from your letter whether you want to make tehm or buy them. If
you want to buty then, there are ads in _TI_. If you want to make them, and
you need a pattern, a simple peasant shirt pattern can be found at your
local fabric store. If it's not labeled as a peasant shirt, check in the
Halloween costume patterns. You xcan have real buyttons, but use the
shank-style, as they're more period. If you want tro explore this period a
little more, a good resource for the beginner is _Elizabethan Costuming_ by
Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. Available in ads in _TI_.
Clarice
From: iys6lri at mvs.oac.ucla.edu (Lori Iversen)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: costume patterns
Date: 7 Feb 1995 20:03:53 GMT
Organization: ucla
ches at io.com (ches) says:
>Cheryl Stavis (CherylA at ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>> ...I'm looking for costume sources other
>> than folkwear of past patterns. I'm especially interested in Reniassance
>> costumes. I've never made my own patterns, so pre-drawn patterns would
>> be best, but I'll take any help I can get!
>> Thank You.
>> cheryla at ix.netcom.com
>
>If you are lucky enough to have a Barnes and Noble Book store near by go
>there and order Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand
>Holkeboer isbn 0-89676-125-8. [small snip of where-to-find-it].
>
>Ciao
>Ches
Alexis here!
Holkeboer would be my first suggestion too. You don't mention how
advanced a seamstress you are, but you might also want to try
"Patterns of Fashion," by Janet Arnold (who did the costumes for the
BBC "Elizabeth R."). It's a three-book series; you'll want the first
one (with the maroon cover), covering 16th- and 17th-century garb.
Arnold has essentially dissected actual clothing from the period
and drafted patterns based on those pieces. I made a pair of
pluderhosen for my SCA brother from the Nils Sturtevant pattern;
they were really easier than they looked but they did break (count
'em) eighteen heavy-duty needles on an industrial machine. And they
looked great (nobody had ever seen butt-hugging slops before!). I
also attempted the Velvet Dress with the Big Hanging Sleeves (I forget
who wore it originally); it didn't turn out quite as well, but then I
only gave myself 24 hours to make it (it *looked* impressive but
didn't fit quite right). Arnold only gives the patterns with notes
about what trim went where and where the pleats went, etc. So if
you have good engineering instincts the patterns in her books are
definitely do-able.
Best of luck!
Alexis Vladescu Lori Iversen
WyvernHo-ette (IYS6LRI at mvs.oac.ucla.edu)
Altavia, CAID The Valley, CA
From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: costume patterns
Date: 8 Feb 1995 17:24:34 GMT
Alexis suggests, as so many do, Janet Arnold's books, "Patterns of
Fashion", to which I add:
A caveat: Arnold makes a number of glaring mistakes and generally doesn't
provide enough info on the garb she depicts to reconstruct it accurately
(check the furred gown, for a quick example). And, despite the title,
the book really isn't about reconstructing garments. It's more a picture
book about what exists still.
So, if you are going to use it as a source for patterns, be sure to also get
ahold of "The Annotated Arnold," available from Raiments (who advertise in
TI). It adds some invaluable info that Arnold leaves out. It doesn't
help much for reconstructing either, but it points out multitudinous
grevious errors on Arnold's part which helps immensely. (I spent three
days trying to reconstruct one of the sleeves she depicted completely
incorrectly, for example. "The Annotated Arnold" showed me exactly what
was going wrong.)
Good luck.
------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu -------------------------
42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101
From: sniderm at mcmail2.cis.McMaster.CA (Mike Snider)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: cotehardies (was Searching for Japanese Garb)
Date: 3 Apr 1995 13:12:29 -0400
Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.
There is a lot of controversy about princess seams versus running all
the pannels from the shoulder when constructing a cotehardie. Both have
reliable documentation behind them. I do mine from the shoulder in the
manner of the Herjolfsnes finds. (See Buried Norsemen at Herfolfsnes,
post me if you need an ISBN) One of the best ways to make the pattern,
however, is with duct tape. Put on an old tee-shirt and have a friend
wrap your torso tightly with the tape. Mark the seams and cut tourself
out of it. Spread the pannels flat and regularize the pannels so they are
symetrical. Flare the pannels from the hips to give yourself as much
fullness as you can. After the garment is constructed, put it on inside
out and take in the seams so it fits snuggly. This is a quickie
description, but I hope it helps. I have made several cotehardies this
way with considerable success.
Good Luck and post me directly if I can help you futher with documentation.
Elizabeth Cadfan
From: jahugi at xmission.xmission.com (John-H)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: cotehardie patterns?
Date: 21 Apr 1995 22:28:40 -0600
ABLockwood (ablockwood at aol.com) wrote:
: I am looking for a pattern for a womans cotehardie that would be fairly
: easy to fit and construct, something beyond a 3-inch-square diagram with
: directions to just cut it out and sew it together...
: Any help would be appreciated. Please e-mail me at ABLockwood at aol.com,
: because I am not always able to read the Rialto...
: -Ashley Lockwood
: (tentatively Alienora)
I have a pattern for Cotehardies & Sideless Surcoats, 14th & 15th C.
This pattern is from Mediaeval Miscellanea, called Period Patterns no. 21.
The sizes are 6-20, but be sure to measure for the correct size! (Learned
the hard way) Unfortunately, I don't have an address for the pattern. I
bought it at an Estrella War a couple of years ago. I don't know if I've
helped you any, but good luck!
Ethereal O. Trewren /Shire of Cote du Ciel /Atenveldt
Janice Hugie <jahugi at xmission.com>
The following information I retrieved off an Elizabethian Costuming WWW
page on 5/4/95.
Stefan li Rous
Some Patterns Which Work
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
These are standard patterns which are close enough to period to be easily
altered to suit. There are also custom patterns for period clothing. These
custom patterns can best be ordered from specialty sewing shops; try your
yellow pages for one near you. Some of these patterns may be out of
production.
Bodice
Adult: McCall's 5064 - Close up CF V more, alter neckline, no collar, take dats in on pattern, no tabs, no tie back, raise armhole underarm.
Vogue 1000 - basic fitting pattern, use no darts
Child: Butterick 6932 - View A, change W in front to a V, lacing not buttons, scoop neckline
Skirt
Adult: Vogue 1723 or 9882 - lengthen hem.
McCall's 4798 - View A, lengthen hem, no pocket.
Simplicity 7561 View 3 or 7021 View 2 - lengthen hem, elasticize waist or lacing.
Child: McCall's 6012 - View B lower to ankle length
Chemise or Bag Shirt
Adult: McCall's 4897 - View A.
McCall's 5993 - Shorten cuff to less than 1 inch.
Simplicity 9162 - View 3 with View 2 ruffle.
Child: Butterick 6730 - make sleeves long
Simplicity 8943 - View 4, elasticize wrists, cut to blouse length
McCall's 6012 - View B
Jerkin
Adult: Butterick 4484 - no pockets, straight waist, lace closure.
Child: Butterick 6605 - lengthen vest and straighten bottom.
Shirts
Adult Nobility: Simplicity 9929 - View 4 CF closed up yoke, lengthen and widen sleeves, add cuff and stand up collar with ties at neck and wrists.
Adult Peasants: Simplicity 7574 - View 1, no ruffle, lengthen to crotch, may slit yoke to sternum
Butterick 6731 - no sash, make sleeves longer
Butterick 3194 - as is
Child: Butterick 6730: As Butterick 6731.
Simplicity 8943 - View 1, no ruffles, shorten to shirt length
Breeches
Adult: Simplicity 7558 - View 3, lengthen to below knee and elasticize
McCalls 6509 - elasticize knees, no pockets
Child: McCall's 6510 or 5356 - below knee, no pockets
Simplicity 8502 - lengthen below knee
Clown pant patterns often work.
Newborns
McCall's 5131 - shoes
Butterick 3317 - Views B and D, lengthen sleeves, use lacing
From: sewinwench at aol.com (SewinWench)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: cotehardie patterns?
Date: 26 Apr 1995 18:59:05 -0400
You can order Period Patterns pattern from this company:
Amazon Vinegar and Pickling Works Drygoods, Ltd.
2218 East 11th Street
Davenport, IA 52803
(319) 322-6800
Don't let the name fool you. This is the most fabulou