fd-Spain-msg – 1/29/08
Food of medieval Spain. References. Cookbooks.
NOTE: See also the files: cookbooks-msg, Spain-msg, cl-Spain-msg, cl-Moorish-msg, fd-Africa-msg, Guisados1-art, Guisados2-art, paella-msg.
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From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 08:47:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: sca-cooks Spanish recipes, custard
Tegan Rhos wrote:
> I will be the auto-crat (or whatever term you prefer) for an event in
> October and my head cook (or whatever) wanted me to ask if anyone had
> any period spanish recipes or could guide us to a source for them.
It may make a big difference whether you're talking about Spain pre- or
post-Reconquista. For the former, there are numerous medieval Arabic
cookbooks available in translation (reprinted in David Friedman's
_Collection of Medieval and Renaissance Cookbooks_), including one from
13th-century Andalusia. For the latter, I have a couple of Catalan
sources, and I believe there are also some surviving Castilian sources.
Some examples from our recent largely-Catalan feast are at
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/sca/cooking/st.val.feast.html.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/
From: Aldyth at aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 23:12:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: sca-cooks spanish feast
<< I have an excellent Spanish cookbook. The Food and Wines of Spain. By
Penelope Casas, Illustrated by Oscar Ochoa Published by Alfred Knopf New
York 1982. ISBN 0-394-51348-7. I have had it for a while, but I did
purchase one last year for a friend. Found it at Barnes and Noble.
This cookbook goes thru everything. Had at least 3 different recipes for
flan.
Mistress Aldyth
Are they traditional recipes of modern Spain or a combination of old and
new?>>
I would say a combination. However the bibliography includes a cookbook
written in 1525 by Ruperto de Nola, chef to King Ferdinand of the Kingdom of
Naples, Italy. Much is made of the 700 year Moorish occupation and the
influence it had. I found it interesting that there is even a "Medieval"
menu suggestion. It starts with Castilian Garlic Soup, Marinated Trout,
Roast Castilian Lamb, Eggplant with cheese, and finishes with Tocino de Cielo
(flan) and flaming liqueur with apples. I really find very little that is
not what I would consider "period". But I have said that I prefer period
looking food before.....
Mistress Aldyth
From: Stephanie Rudin <rudin at master.ceat.okstate.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:39:32 -0700
Subject: SC - Spanish cuisine
Recently I purchased a book which I have not had a lot of time to look
at yet. It is "The Original Mediterranean Cuisine: Medieval Recipes
for Today" by Barbara Santich (Wakefield Press in South Australia or
Chicago Review Press in Chicago). What little I have read so far is
very interesting. The recipes are divided by category, not by region,
but the Spanish ones are fairly easy to pick out.
Mercedes
From: nweders at mail.utexas.edu (ND Wederstrandt)
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:11:33 -0600
Subject: SC - spanish cooking
I wandered over to the university library yesterday at lunch and found a
cookbook on medieval Catalonian and Majorican cooking. Wonderful pictures
of plateware and serving ware, illuminations from books and such. The book
talks about food, some recipes and types of food searched. The only
problem, (at least for me) is that it is in French. I can read a little
French, and I read some Spanish so I can slowly plow through it but it
seems to be a fairly good book. The name is La table medievale des
Catalans by Eliane Thibaut-Comelade, Les Presses du Languedoc, 1995, LOC
numberis TX 723.5 S7 T47 if you can inter library loan.
I haven't had a chance to read much but there is an great illumination of
a cinnamon seller with a big bag of cinnamon sticks.
Clare
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:17:02 +0000
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: What They Ate (was Re: SC - Hedgehogs)
I went back to the "Arte Cisoria" to see what else the 15th century
Spanish deemed edible. Here is the list, for those who are curious.
A few of the terms remain untranslated. Words in [brackets] are my
comments/elaborations.
Of the birds: peacocks, pheasants, francolins; and of these there are
an abundance in Aragon; cranes, geese, bustards, ducks, moor-cocks,
partridges, linnets, doves, wild pigeons, turtledoves, quail, coots,
seagulls, throstles, thrushes, widgeons, swallows, roosters, capons,
pullets, hens, chickens, bitterns, lavancos [variety of wild duck],
anderomias [a gray-and-white variety of duck], herons, sparrows,
crested larks, and those which are similar to these in their flavors
and constitution. Of the four-footed animals: oxen, cows, wild oxen;
these are found in Granada: deer and fallow-deer, fawns, roe-deer,
gazelles; these are also found in Granada; hares, rabbits, mountain
goats; young hares, boars, suckling pigs, kids, sheep, ewes,
he-goats, jerboas; these are found in Mallorca; camels, otters,
hedgehogs, badgers, she-goats and those of this nature and those of
similar constitution. Of the fish: whales, red-mullet, solrayo [type
of ray], needlefish, pollack, conger-eel, moray eel, hake, turbot,
percebe [mollusk common on coast of Galicia], mosello, sole,
flounder, salmons, pike, gilt-head, eels, gudgeons, ralla [ray?],
cuttlefish, octopus, tunny, dolphins, shad, sea-bream, red sea-bream,
barbels, trout, ox-eye cackerels, sardines, lamprey, minnows,
torquellas [some kind of marine fish], lobsters, prawns, crawfish,
sabogas [species of shad], yellow mackerel, loaches, flying fish,
mullet, gatos [?] and those which closely resemble them; likewise the
shellfish; such as oysters, mussels, tellinas [a kind of mussel],
shrimp and the like. Of the reptiles, snails and freshwater
tortoises and such. Of the fruits which are cut and peeled and
divided: melons, citrons, cucumbers, snake cucumbers, pomegranates,
figs, black figs, grapefruits, oranges, lemons, pears, lemons, apple
pears, quince pears, peaches, priscos [variety of peach], walnuts,
chestnuts, hazelnuts, acorns, pine nuts, pistachios, and those of
that class. Of the herbs: cardon artichokes, wild artichokes,
lechares [category of plants which exude sap or "milk"],
great-mullein, spear-plume thistle, carrots, lettuce, turnips,
onions, garlic, scallions, mallows, nettles, borage, asedias [? This
word appears above in the fish list as "flounder". Scribal error?],
purslane, capers, cabbages, leaf-beets, parsley, annual clary sage,
celery, fennel, anise, caraway, mustard, cumin, rocket and those of
that quality.
Brighid, who will probably not be serving jerboa or badger at her
next feast
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain of Tethba
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
mka Robin Carroll-Mann *** harper at idt.net
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:21:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Elmore <psu08000 at odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: RE: SC - Kasutera
> Do we have any sort of information on the foods of Spain and
> Portugal from that time
For a Spanish cookbook look at:
Librode guisados,manjares y potajes intitulado Libro de cozina
By Ruperto de Nola (1529)
Sarah
St. Urban
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:23:08 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Vinha d'ahos
And it came to pass on 30 Jan 99,, that Jan McEwen wrote:
> My lord, being of Portuguese descent, is wondering if vinha d'ahos is
> "period". It is a dish of pork pickled in a vinegar-garlic brine. The
> pork is not cooked initially. It is heated up before serving.
Something similar is period. There are period Spanish recipes for
"Adobo" -- various meats cooked in a vinegar sauce. The recipes I
have (in the "Libro de Guisados", 1529) are for liver and mutton. No
garlic is mentioned as a seasoning -- the recipes call for cinnamon,
cloves, pepper, and "spices". I also have a 1423 Spanish carving
manual (Arte Cisoria) which specifies that one of the common
ways to cook domestic pig is "en adobo".
There are also recipes for escabeche -- a pickled dish. I have one
for rabbit and another for various fishes. Again, there is no mention
of garlic, and the seasonings are such things as saffron, cinnamon,
cloves, and "fine spices".
Brighid
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:21:35 -0800
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Vinha d'ahos
>We'd like to prepare this for the SCA, but we are clueless as to where to
>find Iberian/Portuguese period documentation. Can anyone point us to
>references?
There is a 13th c. Andalusian cookbook, translated from the Arabic by
Charles Perry, included in volume II of the collection of source material I
sell; eventually it will also be on my web site.
There is a 15th c. Portuguese cookbook, published as _Um Tratado da Cozinha
Portuguesa Do Seculo XV_, but no readily available English translation.
There are a number of Spanish cookbooks, but I don't think any have been
translated yet, although some may be in progress.
David/Cariadoc
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:30:00 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Resources on Period Spanish Cooking
I've had several queries recently about resources for medieval and
renaissance Spanish cooking. Here are some of the books I've
been using. Most of them were modern reprints obtained through
ILL. Most of them are in languages other than English. This list
makes *no* pretense of being complete.
AUTHOR: Nola, Ruperto de, pseud.?
TITLE: Libro de guisados, edicion y estudio por Dionisio Perez
("Post-Thebussem")
PUBLISHED: Madrid [Compania ibero-americana de publicaciones]
1929.
DESCRIPTION: xlviii, 247 p., 1 l. illus., facsims. 22 cm.
SERIES: Los clasicos olvidados ... pub. bajo la direccion de Pedro
Sainz y Rodriguez ... vol. IX
NOTE: With facsimile reproductions of title-pages of editions of
Barcelona, 1520, and Logrono, 1529. "He preferido dar a conocer la
segunda edicion castellana hecha en Logrono en 1529, por Miguel
de Eguia, a expensas de Diego Perez Davila": p. [207] Half-title:
Como se servia de comer al rey Hernando de Napoles, por su
cocinero, Roberto de Nola, espanol.
LCCN NUMBER: 32-22348
This is the second edition of the _Libro de Guisados_ (whose first
edition was entitled _Libro de Cocina_). It appears to have
borrowed heavily from two earlier Catalan cookbooks, the _Livre de
Sent Sovi_ and the _Libre de Coch_. This particular reprint has
some very helpful endnotes. There are 242 recipes, two thirds of
which are for meat-days, the remaining being fast-day recipes,
mostly for seafood.
AUTHOR: Granado, Diego, fl. 1599.
TITLE: Libro del arte de cocina, por Diego Granado (1599) ... con
una introduccion por Joaquin del Val.
PUBLISHED: Madrid, Sociedad de Bibliofilos Espanoles, 1971.
DESCRIPTION:xlvii, 432 p., 1 l. 25 cm.
SERIES: Sociedad de Bibliofilos Espanoles. [Publicaciones],
Tercera epoca, 8
NOTE: "325 ejemplares. No. 255".
LCCN NUMBER: 72-216379
The introduction to this book says that it contains recipes in the
Spanish, Italian and German styles. It contains many of the
recipes from the _Libro de Guisados_, practically repeated
verbatim. It has several hundred recipes, including some for New
World creatures, and the Spanish is close to modern and fairly
easy to read. No glossary or footnotes in this reprint.
AUTHOR: Villena, Enrique de Aragon, marques de, 1384-1434.
TITLE: Arte cisoria;
PUBLISHED: Barcelona, 1948.
LCCN NUMBER: 49-26974
A carving manual, but it contains more than just instructions for
cutting up dead animals. There is a long chapter listing foodstuffs
eaten in Spain which require carving, and which includes fish,
birds, herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Although there are no recipes,
per se, the author does comment on various methods of preparing
food. For example, he says that one cuts carrots in this way if
they are to be fried or pickled, but *this* way if they are to be
roasted in the ashes. The Spanish here is noticeably more difficult
to read than in the 16th century works I am familiar with. This
particular edition does include a glossary, which explains some of
the more archaic terms and odd spellings.
AUTHOR: Santich, Barbara.
TITLE: The original Mediterranean cuisine : medieval recipes for
today / Barbara Santich.
PUBLISHED: Chicago, Ill. : Chicago Review Press, c1995.
DESCRIPTION: ix, 178 p. : ill., map ; 21 cm.
ISBN NUMBER:155652272X
LCCN NUMBER: 97-162448
Original recipes and redactions, plus several nice chapters on
medieval cooking in the Mediterranean region.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:55:59 -0400
From: "Jules A. Hojnowski" <jah11 at cornell.edu>
Subject: SC - A Drizzel of Honey revisited!
I was reading through my copy of the Spanish Jewish Cookbook and was absolutely amazed! For those who have been cooking medieval feasts for a while, this I think is a must get! For others who are getting started and are midway into medieval cooking, this is a fantastic book for explaining the "pre" recipe info. They have in the first chapter about the foods they used and where they came from who might have used them to influence these people to use that kind of food, AND! if it was upper or middle or lower class type of people who might have eaten this! The recipes info has where and when it was gotten.
I absolutely love it! and will be doing a whole remove at our June
12th event this summer! I can't wait to see how they turn out! :-)
THL Catalina Alvarez
ps the other great thing about the book, is that it has unknowingly helped me
really hone in my persona! I had no idea that I would find my name in this
book, and that one of the "relatives" of my name was a spice merchant!
It is very cool! :-)))
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 10:24:42 -0400
From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)
Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
>Does anyone know if there are any extant medieval cookbooks from
>Portugal, or describing a Portuguese period culinary tradition? Our
>shire is planning a Portuguese Explorer event (we're in Cape Town, it
>seemed appropriate) and I was wondering what kind of food would fit
>with the theme.
>
>Jehanne
Hello! All I have is:
"Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV"
(A Text on Portuguese Cooking from the Fifteenth Century)
Tr. by Jane L. Crowley from a modern Portuguese text by Professor Antonio
Gomes Filho. Copyright 1988 by Jane L. Crowley.
That's all the bibliographic info I have, but I think this probably was
printed by Cariadoc. There are no Portuguese originals in the text.
Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu
renfrow at skylands.net
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 16:04:28 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
This is the only immediately available reference I can find for Crowley's
text. You might check with the site's owner for further information. Bear
http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/medieval_info.html
> renfrow at skylands.net writes:
> << "Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV"
> (A Text on Portuguese Cooking from the Fifteenth Century)
> Tr. by Jane L. Crowley from a modern Portuguese text by Professor Antonio
> Gomes Filho. Copyright 1988 by Jane L. Crowley.
> That's all the bibliographic info I have, but I think this probably was
> printed by Cariadoc. There are no Portuguese originals in the text.
>
> HTH, >>
>
> Would anyone who has this work or access to it please e-mail me privately? I
> have all of Cariadoc's works but it is definitely NOT in the editions i
> currently have. :-(
>
> Ras
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 07:38:04 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: Private-Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
> Look for the Spanish recipes. Spain and Portugal were part of the same
> kingdom during several centuries. Their kitchen (most influated by the
> arabs) are mingled. But the portuguise were the first nation in using
> spices they found in Madagascar and Macao. Their recipes about the dried
> fish named "cabelho" are also unique.
>
> Ana L. Valds
Portugal became an independent kingdom in 1139, consolidated in 1294 with
the final defeat of the Moors on Portuguese territory. Spain retook
Portugal in 1580 and lost it in a revolt in 1640.
IIRC, "Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV" was found in an
Italian library (the Vatican?) subtitled as a Spanish cookbook by one of the
librarians. This may be technically correct, as the publication seems to
fall in the period Spain held Portugal.
Portugal was the first European nation to make use of spices they imported.
The importation is the key point, because it reduced costs, located new
spices, and made more spices available to more people.
I've been slowly locating and collecting references to show that the
importation and use of eastern spices continued after the fall of Rome and
through the period prior to the Crusades and trying to determine what spice
was known when.
Bear
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 16:23:37 +0200
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
Hello Jessica/Jehanne,
"Foi serodia e escassa a producao de livros impressos portugueses de
cozinha" (The production of printed Portuguese cookbooks was late and
scarce). This is the first sentence in "Livros portugueses de cozinha",
a bibliography on portuguese cookbooks, published Lisbon 1988
[Biblioteca Nacional, Catlogo 29].
The only 15th/16th century text extant seems to be the cookbook in the
Codex I.E.33 of the National Library in Naples, a manuscript that seems
to have belonged to Infanta D. Maria of Portugal. This text has been
edited for several times:
- -- Manuppella, G. (ed.): Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria. Cdice
portugus I.E.33. da Biblioteca Nacional de Npoles. Prlogo, Leitura,
Notas aos textos, Glossrio e Indices de G. Manuppella. Lissabon 1987.
- -- Newman, E.: A critical edition of an Early Portuguese cook book.
Diss. (Univ. of North Carolina) Chapel Hill 1964.
- -- Gomes Filho, Ant.: Um tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV.
Lissabon 1963 (Dicionario de la lingue portuguese, textos e vocabularios
2).
Manupella says, that the editions of Newman and Gomes Filho are not
without faults. There is also an important introduction to the
Manupella-edition, printed separately in 1986:
- -- Dias Arnaut, S.: A arte de comer em Portugal na Idade Mdia.
(Introduao a O Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria de Portugal.)
Lissabon 1986.
Here are two more titles relating to ancient Portuguese cookery:
- -- Leimgruber, V.: Katalanisch codonyat, portugiesisch marmelada.
Ihr Schicksal nach den Kochbchern des 15. und 16. Jahrhunderts. In:
Estudis Romnics XIII/2 (Barcelona 1963-68) 75-94.
- -- Rodrigues, D.: Arte de Cozinha (Lissabon 1732). Leitura,
apresentaao, notas e glossrio por M. da Graa Pericao e M.I. Faria.
Lissabon 1987.
And here are some texts relating to travel and "descobrimento":
- -- Machado, J.P./ Campos, V.: Vasco da Gama e a sua viagem de
descobrimento. Com a ediao crtica e leitura actualizada do relato
annimo da viagem. Lissabon 1969.
- -- Pereira, F.M.E. (Hg.): Marco Paulo. O livro de Marco Paulo - O livro
de Nicolao Veneto - Carta de Jeronimo de Santo Estevam. Conforme a
impressao de Valentim Fernandes, feita em Lisboa em 1502; com tres
fac-similes, introduao e indices. Lissabon 1922.
- -- Portugal - Brazil. The age of atlantic discoveries. Essays by L. de
Albuquerque, C.R. Boxer, F. Leite de Faria, M.J. Guedes, F.M. Rogers,
W.E. Washburn. Ed. by M.J. Guedes and G. Lombardi. Lissabon/ Mailand/
New York 1990.
- -- Vasco da Gama. Dirio de viagem de Vasco da Gama. Band 1: Einleitung
(D. Peres), Faksimile der Handschrift, Transkription (A. Baiao & A. de
Magalhaes Basto) und modernisierte Umschrift (A. de M. Basto). Band 2:
Studien (G. Coutinho; F. Hmmerich). Porto 1945.
- -- Erhard, A./ Ramminger, E.: Die Meerfahrt. Balthasar Springers Reise
zur Pfefferkste. Mit einem Faksimile des Buches von 1509. Innsbruck
1998.
Balthasar Springer sailed with a portuguese crew from Lisbon to Cochin
and Calicut and came by the Cape of good hope twice. E.g., he mentions
that they landed at the Algoa Bay and that they bought oxen, cows and
sheep from the people there ("da funden wir wassers genuog Ochssen Kuw
vnd Schaf/ vnd verkaufften vns die Moren genuog vmb ein wenig alts
eysens: vnd wolten sunst anders nicht haben/ wir speissten vnser Schife
do mit groser meng fleisch vnd wassers".]
Thomas
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 11:01:27 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
> <sigh> Why are the BEST scholarly works never translated in to English?
> :-(
>
> Ras
Economics. Translating and publishing scholarly works is normally not very
profitable, so only internationally reknowned scholars and works which can
sold in the popular market get translated. The BEST works may get
translated and published, right beside the WORST works. What does not get
published is the competent and thorough research of limited scope.
In addition, scholars are expected to be multi-lingual. Most have several
languages and often scholarly needs are met by a translation of an original
work into a language other than English.
BTW, the two pages with Portuguese recipes on that site are:
http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/mixedeggs.html
http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/pumpkin.html
Bear
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 01:06:34 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: Oranges and Translations (was Re: SC - Tuna Recipe?)
And it came to pass on 11 Jul 99,, that david friedman wrote:
> >TOINA EN PARRILLAS -- Tuna on the Grill
> >Source: Libro de Guisados (Spanish, 1529)
> >Translation: mine
> >
> >Take from the tuna from the forward part of the belly, well cleaned; and
> >anoint it with oil, and also anoint the grill and set it to roast over a
> >few coals; and anoint them little by little with oil and afterwards make
> >your sauce with water and salt and oil, and orange juice ...
>
> This raises two questions:
>
> 1. By 1529, I'm pretty sure the sweet orange had gotten to the Iberian
> peninsula. Do the recipes make any distinction between the old sour orange
> and the more recent sweet orange?
All of the recipes that I have seen appear to use sour oranges only. The
references are to oranges (naranjas) and orange juice (jugo de naranja)
without any kind of modifying adjective. This applies not only to the
1529 _Libro de Guisados_, but also to the 1599 _Arte Del Cozina_,
although I have not read the latter as carefully, since it is a much longer
work, and is not my main focus. In many recipes in both sources,
orange juice is suggested as an alternative to other souring agents such
as verjuice, vinegar, and lemon juice.
> 2. When are you planning to publish and/or web your translation of the
> Libro de Guisados so that the rest of us can get our hands on it?
Well, first I need to actually *finish* the translation. Then I must give it a
decent polishing. Some of the recipes I have sent to this list are quick-
and-dirty translations that I've done on the spur of the moment --
accurate enough to redact from, but not carefully worded as I would like
a final draft to be.
> If you don't want to publish it, I will be happy to include it in my collection.
I would be greatly honored.
> David/Cariadoc
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:01:10 +0200
From: "ana l. valdes" <agora at algonet.se>
Subject: SC - portuguis period food
Hi, I wanted to answer the people who asked me about monastic food and
Portugis middleage food.
Here is two recipes from the cookbook written for the princess Maria,
who married Alessandro Farnese, the Rennaisance prince.
The book is little, only 67 recipes. The critics says it was written
between the end of the 15 century and the beginning of the 16 century,
since some recipes assume the New World was already discovered and the
Portuguis started to eat things they found in Brazil.
Funny enough, in this book its impossible to find any recipe for
Bacalhau, the fishdish which was as important for Portugal since the 13
century. Maybe the cookbook was used only in the Court and the
"upperclass" considered bacalhau-dishes too proletarians.
This book was founded 1896, in the National Library in Neapel.
Alfatete
Take well pure flour and make sure it is white. Make a hole on it and
add sugar, two eggyolks and butter. Mix all well. Leave the dough on a
bowl. Make doughballs and fry them in butter.
Boil a hen and use pepper and spices, use butter and lard with spices
and goatmeat and broth. When the hen is cooked, lay over the fried
doughballs in a serving tray and powder with sugar. Put the hen over the
sugarpowdered doughballs, add the broth and some runny eggyolks. Powder
with sugar and cinammon.
Goatliverterrine
Boil the liver of a goat and grate it well. Grate several eggyolks too.
Add clove, cinammon and sugar, plus some flour. Take the stomach of the
get and cut it it in small pieces. Lay the mixture with the get liver
inside the pieces of stomac and fry it and make them as rolls or buns or
cakes. (I am not sure of the translation).
Powder the buns with flour and fry it in a pan. Powder with sugar and
cinammon.
Yours
Ana
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 14:59:52 PDT
From: "Bonne of Traquair" <oftraquair at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
>From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
>Subject: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
>Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 16:23:37 +0200
>
>Hello Jessica/Jehanne,
>
>"Foi serodia e escassa a producao de livros impressos portugueses de
>cozinha" (The production of printed Portuguese cookbooks was late and
>scarce). This is the first sentence in "Livros portugueses de cozinha",
>a bibliography on portuguese cookbooks, published Lisbon 1988
>[Biblioteca Nacional, Catlogo 29].
>
>The only 15th/16th century text extant seems to be the cookbook in the
>Codex I.E.33 of the National Library in Naples, a manuscript that seems
>to have belonged to Infanta D. Maria of Portugal. This text has been
>edited for several times:
>
>-- Newman, E.: A critical edition of an Early Portuguese cook book.
>Diss. (Univ. of North Carolina) Chapel Hill 1964.
At last, I made it down to Davis Library here at UNC and reviewed the copy
of this dissertation in the microforms section. The original seems to have
disappeared. I haven't had much time to go over it, but here are the basics
of what is contained in the dissertation.
- -Introduction describing the manuscript in Naples and quotations (in
Portuguese and Spanish) of earlier references to it. It is mostly in one
hand, with additions and notations in three other hands, one completely
illegible. There are large numbers of pages missing, 24 recipes in the
remaining pages.
- -definition of abbreviations apppearing in the manuscript.
- -comparison with the recipes in "Two 15th Century Cookbooks", (Thomas
Austin, 1888) and "The Goodman of Paris",(Eileen Edna Power, 1928)
(Conclusion, not too similar or repetitive, the Portuguese ate differently
than the English and French of the middle ages.) (but then again, there's
all those missing pages to consider--Bonne)
- -ennumeration of the sorts of dishes ("...partidges are used twice, young
cocks twice and doves once.")
- -discussion/definition of ingredients.
- -discussesion/definition of utensils.
- -discussesion/definition of measurements.
- -index of the recipes which begins with a translation of the title and list
of ingredients, but along the way she begins adding more and more bits of
description, nearly giving instructions for the last few.
- -discussion of the text from a linguistic standpoint: Description of
editorial liscense she has used in her transcribing.
- -Transcribed but not translated recipes.
- -More linguistic discussion (the dissertation was for a Ph.D. in Romance
Languages)
- -Glossary
- -Bibliography.
I printed out everything except the linguistic discussion and transcribed
recipes, this made up about half the pages of the dissertation. I'l be
reading it over and posting more if it seems useful. I'll probably go back
and get the recipes and all anyway, with her description and a good
portugues/english dictionary, even I might be able to come up with passable
translation of some of the recipes.
I can fax these 50 or so pages if anyone wants to see them. I am
considering scanning and posting, but am not sure about UNC's views on
copyright for this. I'll check. (in the meantime, let's not open THAT
discussion here and now!)
Bonne de Traquair
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 18:03:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
This dissertation appears to be available from
University Microfilms, so you might have to ask
them about copyright instead of UNC.
This dissertation is also in the UC Berkeley library,
UC Santa Barbara library and SUNY Binghamton library.
Huette
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 12:15:32 +0200
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks?
Bonne,
If you have access to the newer edition of Manuppella, perhaps it would
be good to compare also this edition.
"Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria. Cdice Portugue^s I.E. 33. da
Biblioteca Nacional de Npoles. Prlogo, Leitura, Notas aos textos,
Glosssrio e ndices de Giacinto Manuppella. Lisbon: Imprensa
Nacional-Casa da Moeda 1987."
It has a diplomatic text and a more normalized version that is more
easily legible. In addition, there is a copious index of words, that
might be helpful for the more troublesome passages. Manuppella seems not
to be content with the achievments of his predecessors (Gomes Filho:
"na~o impecavel" something like 'not without faults'; Elizabeth Newman:
"nem mais feliz" 'not more successful (than Gomes Filho)').
But that's normal that editors complain about their predecessors:
otherwise there would be no reason to do a new edition.
Best wishes for your enterprise,
Thomas
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:16:22 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast
And it came to pass on 13 Sep 99,, that Micaylah wrote:
> I am helping do a Feast here in Ealdormere (NO I am not heading it
> up!!) with the theme being early Spanish. I have absolutely no
> knowledge of this time frame, nor geography.
>
> What I would like to do is open the floor for discussion with an eye
> to educate on this era. Is there suitable documentation that I can
> refer to? Is there anyone out there that can wax eloquent on this? If so,
> PLEASE feel free to. I know Dame Siglinde has been in touch with Cariadoc
> but as yet I have not been able to compare notes with her.
His Grace is probably one of the best people to consult. Unfortunately,
there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from
the very early period you are concentrating on. The Baghdad Cookery-
Book and the Al-Andalus cookbook are both 13th century Muslim. The
_Libre de sent sovi_ is 14th century Catalan Christian, and there are
several later period cookbooks which derive from it. If you can, I'd
advise getting hold of a copy of _A Drizzle of Honey_, which attempts to
reconstruct the cuisine of 15th century crypto-Jews. It gives a fair
amount of background detail on Spanish cuisine, and has a very lengthy
bibliography. (Many of the items listed are in Spanish). Good luck with
your project. It sounds like an intriguing event.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:38:28 -0500
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast
At 11:16 PM -0400 9/13/99, Robin Carroll-Mann wrote:
>Unfortunately,
>there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from
>the very early period you are concentrating on.
There is a surviving Muslim (not Spanish) collection part of which is
probably that early, but aside from a few recipes it hasn't been
translated. But lots of 13th c. Andalusian recipes.
David/Cariadoc
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:13:46 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast
Robin Carroll-Mann wrote:
> And it came to pass on 13 Sep 99,, that Micaylah wrote:
> > I am helping do a Feast here in Ealdormere (NO I am not heading it
> > up!!) with the theme being early Spanish. I have absolutely no
> > knowledge of this time frame, nor geography.
> His Grace is probably one of the best people to consult. Unfortunately,
> there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from
> the very early period you are concentrating on. The Baghdad Cookery-
> Book and the Al-Andalus cookbook are both 13th century Muslim. The
> _Libre de sent sovi_ is 14th century Catalan Christian, and there are
> several later period cookbooks which derive from it. If you can, I'd
> advise getting hold of a copy of _A Drizzle of Honey_, which attempts to
> reconstruct the cuisine of 15th century crypto-Jews. It gives a fair
> amount of background detail on Spanish cuisine, and has a very lengthy
> bibliography. (Many of the items listed are in Spanish). Good luck with
> your project. It sounds like an intriguing event.
According to a short article in "Du manuscrit a la table", one of
Rudolph Grewe's last projects before his untimely death was to be
published as "The Almohade Cookbook", which was to be a translation of
an early Hispano-Arabic cookery text of a couple of hundred recipes.
What distinguished this work and particularly excited me was that Grewe
seemed to feel that this source A) was the first, and according to
implication, only, to detail a cuisine demonstrably Spanish by
geographical definition rather than simply Arabic food cooked in Spain
[i.e. olive oil, not sesame oil or butter, for the most part, etc.] and
B) shows traces of a Spanish cuisine from before the Islamic conquest of
a good chunk of Spain.
Unfortunately, Grewe died around the time of the planned publication;
it's unclear whether the piece was ever finished. It does not appear to
have been published by the forecasted publisher at the time mentioned by
Grewe in his article. As of now, I've been unable to track any of the
translation down except for the tiniest glimpse Grewe includes in his
piece for "Du manuscrit a la table".
<sigh>
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 00:30:48 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - gazpacho and Rome
And it came to pass on 30 Sep 99,, that LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> nannar at isholf.is writes:
> << heche de diferentes hierbas legumbres >>
>
> 'made from different herbs and legumes.' Does legumes refer more correctly
> to favas and garbanzos? Or more generally to things that grow on vines?
>
> Ras
In modern Spanish "legumbres" can mean either legumes or vegetables
in general. The phrase above, incidently, is "made from different herbs
OR vegetables". The early 18th century dictionary gives the following
definition:
"Nombre que comprehendre todo genero de frutos o semillas que se
crian en vainas: como la Judia, el garbanzo, el haba, y otras
semejantes. Algunos le extienden a significar algunas hortalizas. Es
del Latino 'Legumen'."
My translation: "Name which includes the whole genus of fruits or seeds
which grow on vines: like the kidney-bean, the chick pea, the broad
bean, and other similar ones. Some extend it to mean some
vegetables. It is from the Latin 'Legumen'."
So it looks like the term was used primarily to mean legumes -- beans
and their kindred -- in period. Granado (1599) uses the term in several
recipes. In each of them, it seems to mean legumes. For example:
"Para hazer torta de bisaltos secos, y otras legumbres" -- "To make a
torte of dried peas and other legumes". The alternate ingredients are
chick peas, kidney beans, lentils, and broad beans.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 00:30:48 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Fideos (Spanish noodles)
Para hazer macarrones, vulgarmente llamados fideos -- To make
macaroni, vulgarly called "fideos"
Source: Granado, 1599
Translation: Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
Take two pounds of flour, and one pound of grated white bread passed
through the colander, and knead it with fat broth that is boiling, or with
water, adding four beaten egg yolks to mix with the dough, and when
the dough is made, in such a manner that it is not very hard, nor too
soft, but that it has its perfection, and sprinkle both [sides of] the
cheese grater with the best of the flour, and put the paste upon the
grater, and make the fideos, and not having a grater make them upon a
board, drawing the fideos [the length of] three fingers thinly, and put the
least flour that you can, so that they remain more tender, and have a
care that you do not feed it again, in such a manner that it becomes too
soft or liquid, and when they are made let them rest a little while, and
then make them cook in fat broth that boils, or in water in a wide vessel,
and when they are cooked, fit them on plates with grated cheese, and
with fresh buffalo cheese (which in Italy is called probatura) which is not
very salty, also grated, and with sugar, and cinnamon, and morsels of
fresh cow's butter upon the plates, in turn, the one and the other, and let
it baste on the plate over the hot ashes.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:20:22 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Rosquillas (Recipe)
I've been doing some more baking. Below is a period Spanish recipe
(and my redaction) for rosquillas. The name means "little rings".
Modern rosquillas are generally leavened with baking powder, fried, and
glazed. (I understand that in the Spanish-language version of "The
Simpsons", Homer's constant cry is, "Oooh.... rosquillas!"). Period
rosquillas are sweet egg-leavened rings, which are boiled, then baked.
One of my friends commented, "I like them, but they're confusing. They
look like bagels and taste like biscotti!"
Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_, Spanish, 1599
Translation and redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
PARA HAZER ROSQUILLAS -- To make rosquillas (little rings)
For forty egg yolks, a pound of ground sugar, and as much white wine
as will fit in the shell of an egg, and a little anise, and a little cinnamon,
and a little cows butter, and a little orange flower water. Knead
everything with fine flour, and cast in what should be necessary to
conform to the quantity of eggs. Knead with a light hand, so that you
do not break the dough, which should not be very hard, nor very soft, but
well pummelled, and being good, make the rosquillas the size that you
wish. Have on the fire a kettle of water, and when it begins to boil, cast
the rosquillas within, in such a manner that they do not go one on top of
another, and cast them in until they ascend. Upon ascending they are
cooked. Put them in some kneading troughs, and being cooled, remove
them and send them to the oven to cook, which should be quite
temperate.
Rosquillas
20 egg yolks (medium or large)
1/2 pound sugar (1-1/4 cups)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon white wine
2 tablespoons orange-flower water
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground anise
5 to 5-1/4 cups all purpose flour
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Fill a large, wide pot with water, at least 4-5
inches deep, and bring it to a boil. Adjust the heat so the water is at a
constant simmer.
Beat the egg yolks lightly in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer equipped
with a dough hook. Stir in the sugar, butter, wine, orange-flower water,
and the spices. Add 3 cups of the flour and mix well. Gradually add
flour, kneading continually, until you have a dough of medium firmness.
It will be sticky, and it will *not* form a ball on the dough-hook or clean
the sides of the bowl. It will more closely resemble a sugar-cookie
dough than a bread dough. Add just enough flour to make a dough that
can be handled and shaped. Knead well, about 8-10 minutes. The
dough will be fairly smooth.
Scrape the dough out of the bowl onto a flat surface. Cover with a damp
cloth so it does not dry out. Roll a piece of dough into a ball about 1-
1/2 inches in diameter. Flatten the ball slightly, and with your thumb
and forefinger, pinch a hole in the center of the disc. Enlarge the hole
and shape the dough until you have a doughnut-like ring, about 2-1/2
inches in diameter and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick.
When you have shaped several rosquillas, drop them, one at a time,
into the simmering water. (You did get the pot of water ready, didn't
you?) They will sink like stones to the bottom of the pot. Watch out for
scalding-hot splashes, and make sure that the rosquillas do not settle
on top of each other. They will begin to expand slightly, and to become
whiter and wrinkled. In about 4-5 minutes, the rosquillas will suddenly
float to the surface of the water. As each one rises, remove it gently
with a slotted spoon or a skimmer, and place on a rack to cook and dry.
Continue shaping and simmering rosquillas until all the dough is used
up.
When the rosquillas are cool to the touch, place them on an ungreased
cookie sheet, and bake 20-25 minutes at 350 F until lightly browned.
Cool on racks. Makes about 2-1/2 dozen.
Notes:
My redaction is half of the original recipe, as it makes a quantity that is
convenient for a home kitchen. A quarter-recipe also works well. I
made two test batches using my KitchenAid mixer. One batch, which I
hand-kneaded for 10 minutes, did not turn out well. They took twice as
long to rise in the water, and then they drifted up languidly. After
baking, they were unpleasantly dense. A long period of hand-kneading
would probably solve that problem.
I decided to conduct an egg size experiment. After separating out the
yolks from 10 medium eggs, I weighed them. The yolks varied in size,
but the total came to 165 grams (5-3/4 oz.) in weight. I then started
weighing the yolks of large eggs, on the assumption that I would need
fewer of them. These also varied in size, but 10 large yolks came to
166 grams. I do not know how the yolks from larger or smaller eggs
would compare.
The anise and cinnamon flavors blended subtlely and pleasantly. Even
my anise-hating husband pronounced the rosquillas acceptable. I could
not detect the flavor of the orange-flower water, even when I increased
the quantity to 2 tablespoons. I suspect it could be omitted if
unavailable, without much noticeable change.
The rosquillas are good for dipping in tea or coffee. They would probably
keep for at least several days in an air-tight container.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 01:19:22 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: SC - Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version?
Rudolf Grewe in his 'Hispano-Arabic cuisine' mentions a 12th/13th
century (forerunner of) olla podrida:
"The sinhaji dish. For this, all kinds of meat -- beef, mutton, chicken,
partridges, etc. -- along with chick-peas and whatever vegetables are
available in the season, are boiled in a very large pot. Sausages and
meatballs are considered indispensable ingredients. This dish is a clear
example, and probably the first documented one, of the olla podrida,
Spain's national dish during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. In
our text, this dish bears the name of one of the most famous Berber
tribes, the Sinhaja, and was probably named in its honor." (p. 145f.).
Looking for the recipe, the situation becomes somewhat complicated. Up
to now, the recipe is published only in an edition of the Arabic text
and a Spanish translation by Ambrosio Huici Miranda. Grewe had much to
critizise about the Huici Miranda edition:
"Huici did not realize that some of the folios had been misplaced when
the manuscript was bound (...). Thus, many recipes are truncated and
improperly connected (...) the order of the recipes in his edition seems
completely haphazard and arbitrary. In addition, his edition lacks any
notes that would clarify the specialized vocabulary (...) due to his
incomprehension of the vocabulary and subject matter, many of Huici's
readings or the manuscript are wrong (...)" (p. 141).
On the other hand, Grewe died, before he could finish his own edition of
the text. Thus, we must use the Huici Miranda edition and translation,
but we must use it with care.
Another point is that the manuscript of the Almohade cookbook is much
younger than the text itself. The manuscript was completed in 1604, but
the text seems to be from the early 13th century (around 1200 or
somewhat earlier or later). Huici Miranda says that certain clues:
prueba que la obra se redact en el primer tercio del siglo XIII (p.
12; certain clues prove that the work was compiled in the first third
of the 13th century). Grewe says: The text can be dated to the end of
the twelfth or the beginning of thirteenth century by the historical
references it contains (p. 142).
In the Huici Miranda Spanish translation (1966) of his Arabic edition,
there are two sinhayi-recipes, one for noblemen, one for the common
people. Here is Huicis Spanish translation of the recipe for noblemen:
Receta del Sinhayi regio
Se toma una sartn grande y honda y se coloca en ella carne
roja de vaca, cortada sin grasa, de su pierna, de su paletilla
y de su cadera y se le aade aceite en mucha cantidad, vinagre
y un poco de almor macerado, pimienta, azafrn, comino y ajo;
se cuece a medias y luego se le aade carne de oveja, la ms
roja tambin; se cuece y se le aade a esto gallina limpia y en
pedazos, perdiz, pichn o paloma torcaz y pjaros, longanizas
y albndigas; se espolvorea con almendras molidas y se regula
con sal. Se cubre con mucho aceite, se mete en el horno y se
deja en l hasta que se cuece y entonces se saca. Este es el verdadero
sinhayi, que usan los notables; en cuanto al sinhayi de
la plebe, se expondr en su lugar, si Dios quiere. (p. 19).
The Spanish translation of the recipe for common people goes like this:
El Sinhayi
Se toma una marmita grande y honda, se le pone tres partes
de vinagre fresco y una parte de almor macerado y de pimienta,
cilantro, comino y azafrn la cantidad necesaria; se pone
a un fuego de carbn moderado y se le prepara antes lo que se
necesite preparar, como la carne de vacuno cortada en pedazos
menudos, y cuando ha hervido una o dos veces, se le pone la
misma cantidad de carne de oveja; luego de gallinas cortadas,
de perdices cortadas y de pichones de paloma y de trtolas cortadas
del mismo modo y lo que se pueda de aves y se le agrega
garbanzos [p.150] remojados y pelados, almendras peladas
y cortadas y castaas peladas de su corteza, ajo y zumo de
cidra; se cubre con mucho aceite y cuando est casi en sazn,
se le aade lo que se tenga de verduras cocidas hasta el extremo
[184] y se termina su coccin como con nabos, zanahorias, berenjenas,
calabazas, tallos de apio sin hojas y cabezas de lechuga
sin hojas; se toma lo que se presente de estas verduras, seg?n
la estacin y el tiempo actual; se cuecen en una olla aparte con
sal, con sus especias y su cebolla hasta que estn a punto; se les
quita su agua y luego se aaden a las carnes citadas en dicha
sartn y es preciso que tenga albndigas y mirkas hechos con
estas mezclas solamente, y lo que no sea eso es superfluo y mezcla
no buena. Lo propio de este plato es ser bueno para toda
edad y todo temperamento, por lo que re?ne de todas las carnes
y clases de verduras y por lo que entra en l de vinagre y
de almor macerado, de especias y dems. (183f.).
In respect to this second version, it is interesting to see, that there
is one big pot, several meat elements, vinegar, spices, and several
vegetables (!) to be used, according to the region and the season.
The distinction between a recipe for "los notables" (the noblemen) and
another one for "la plebe" (the common people) is noteworthy too: the
version for the notables is mentioned as the real thing (el verdadero
sinhayi).
Again: the situation is complicated: there is a manuscript in poor
physical condition (Grewe) from 1604, that contains an Arabic text
probably from the early 13th century; then, there is (according to
Grewe) an insufficient Arabic edition of this text and a Spanish
translation that relies on this (insufficient) edition. And: Grewe died
prematurely.
I wont complicate the situation further by trying to translate the
Spanish version into English. Perhaps, Lady Brighid, Phlip, Ana, or XY
could ...
Cheers,
Thomas
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:50:05 -0600
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version?
At 1:19 AM +0100 1/24/00, Thomas Gloning wrote:
>Looking for the recipe, the situation becomes somewhat complicated. Up
>to now, the recipe is published only in an edition of the Arabic text
>and a Spanish translation by Ambrosio Huici Miranda. Grewe had much to
>critizise about the Huici Miranda edition:
So did Charles Perry, whose English translation is included in volume
II of my collection. The recipes for sinhaji are:
Royal Sanhji
Take a large, deep tajine [clay casserole with a lid] and put some
red beef in it, cut up without fat, from the leg, the shoulder, and
the hip of the cow. Add a very large quantity of oil, vinegar, a
little murri naq', pepper, saffron, cumin, and garlic. Cook it until
it's half done, and then add some red sheep's meat and cook. Then add
to this cleaned chickens, cut into pieces; partridges, young pigeons
or wild doves, and other small birds, mirks and meatballs. Sprinkle
it with split almonds, and salt it to taste. Cover it with a lot of
oil, put it in the oven, and leave in until it is done, and take it
out. This is simple sanhji, used by the renowned; as for the common
people, their sanhji will be dealt with in its own proper time, God
willing.
Sanhji
Take a large deep tinjir [brass or copper boiling kettle,
specifically used for making confections such as khabs and
fldhaj], put in three parts sharp vinegar and one part murri naq'
and the required amounts of pepper, [p. 51, verso] caraway, cumin and
saffron; put on a moderate coal fire and have prepared beforehand
what is needed, such as beef cut in small pieces, and when it has
boiled one or two times, put in the same amount of ewe meat; then
some cut up hens, cut up partridges and squabs of domestic and stock
doves cut up in the same way and whatever birds you can get and add
some soaked peeled garbanzos, peeled chopped almonds and chestnuts
peeled of their skins, garlic and citron leaves; cover with a lot of
oil and when it is almost done, add whatever you have of vegetables
cooked separately and finish cooking them, such as turnips, carrots,
eggplants, gourds, "eyes" of cabbage without their leaves and heads
of lettuce without the outer leaves; use whatever vegetables are
available, according to the season and the present time. Cook in a
separate pot with salt, their spices and onion until done; pour off
the water and then add to the aforementioned meats in the said tajine
and you need to have meatballs and mirks made only from these
ingredients, because if not they will be an excessive and disapproved
mixture. It is the property of this dish to be good for all states
and temperaments, for it unites all the meats and the classes of
vegetable and because you put in it vinegar and murri naq', spices
and so on.
David/Cariadoc
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 10:11:02 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Recipe: Olla Podrida (repost)
Resending this, since it doesn't seem to have made it to the list.
Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_ (Spanish, 1599)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
PARA HAZER VNA OLLA PODRIDA -- To make an olla podrida
Take two pounds of salted hogs gullet, and four pounds of de-salted
shoulder ham, two snouts, two ears, and four feet of a hog, divided and
removed the same day, four pounds of wild boar with the fresh
intestines, two pounds of good sausages, and everything being clean,
cook it in water without salt. And in another vessel of copper, or
earthenware, also cook with water and salt: six pounds of mutton, and
six pounds of calfs kidneys, and six pounds of fat beef, and two capons
or two hens, and four fat domestic pigeons. And of all these things,
those which are cooked first should be removed from the broth before
they come apart, and be kept in a vessel, and in another vessel of
earthenware or of copper, with the aforementioned broth, cook two
hindquarter of hare, cut in pieces, three partridges, two pheasants, or
two large fresh wild ducks, twenty thrushes, twenty quail, and three
francolins. And everything being cooked, mix the said broths and strain
them through a hair-sieve, taking care that they should not be too salty.
Have ready black and white chickpeas which have been soaked, whole
heads of garlic, divided onions, peeled chestnuts, boiled French beans
or kidney beans, and cook it all together with the broth, and when the
legumes are almost cooked, put in white cabbage and cabbage, and
turnips, and stuffed tripes or sausages. And when everything is cooked
before the firmness is undone, taste it repeatedly in regard to the salt,
and add a little pepper and cinnamon , and then have ready large plates,
and put some of this mixure upon the plates without broth. And take all
the birds divided in four quarters, and the salted meats cut into slices,
and leave the little birds whole, and distribute them on the plate upon
the mixture, and upon those put the other mixture with the sliced
stuffing, and in this manner make three layers. And take a ladleful of
the fattest broth, and put it on top, and cover it with another plate, and
leave it half an hour in a hot place, and serve it hot with sweet spices.
You can roast some of the said birds after boiling them.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:04:47 -0600
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version?
At 4:20 PM -0500 1/25/00, alysk at ix.netcom.com wrote:
>So... Cariadoc said that his Collection contained Charles Perry's translation
>from the Arabic. Mr. Perry worked from the English translations that several
>of us (self included) did from Huici Miranda's flawed Spanish.
Charles Perry also had the original Arabic, and was working from
that, with the assistance of the Arabic to Spanish to English that
you and several others did.
David Friedman
Professor of Law
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:25:55 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Spanish food/health manual
And it came to pass on 25 Jan 00,, that david friedman wrote:
> This sounds a lot like the _Taciunum Sanitatas_, which is a Latin
> version of an Arabic original. We have two modern editions in
> translation with illustrations, _A Medieval Health Handbook_ and _The Four
> Seasons of the House of Cerrutti_ (that's by memory, so I may not have
> them exactly right.) This book gives, for each food or activity, its
> nature by the theory of the humors, its benefits, its risks, and how to
> neutralize the risks.
>
> Elizabeth/Betty Cook
I have heard of the _Taciunum Sanitatas_, though I haven't read it. Your
description of it matches the _Banquete de Nobles Caballeros_ quite
well. I would imagine that the two books are very similar. I looked up
several foods in Platina and the _Banquete_, and found they agreed on
the basic properties -- not surprising, since both are based on the
writings of classical authorities like Galen.
However, Lobera de Avila discusses at least one item that Platina does
not... a foreign beverage recently popularized in Spain -- beer. (He
doesn't think much of it.)
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:30:05 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version?
And it came to pass on 25 Jan 00,, that david friedman wrote:
(In reply to Mistress Alys)
> Charles Perry also had the original Arabic, and was working from
> that, with the assistance of the Arabic to Spanish to English that
> you and several others did.
I started on a translation from the Spanish of the first recipe. Then I
compared it to the translation in Cariodoc's cookbook collection, and
found that mine was in no way superior to what was already there. So I
really don't see any point in continuing, as it will not add anything to our
understanding of these recipes.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 01:18:23 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de>
Subject: SC - Olla podrida -- the recipe of Domingo Hernndez de Maceras
Domingo Hernndez de Maceras was the cook of the Colegio mayor de Oviedo
of the famous university of Salamanca in Spain. His cookbook -- only one
copy seems to be extant -- was published in 1607. Since he was a cook
for 40 years ("... fue cocinero toda su vida, comenz desde nio, y
trabaj durante cuarenta aos, en la cocina del famoso colegio
universitario", p.64), the cookbook might well describe dishes that go
back to the 16th century.
Here is his recipe for olla podrida:
"Cap. LIIII. Cmo se ha de hacer una olla podrida.
Para hacer una olla podrida, se le ha de echar carnero, vaca, tocino,
pies de puerco, testuz, longanizas, lenguas, palomas, lavancos, liebre,
lenguas de vaca, garbanzos, ajos y nabos si es su tiempo, y la carne que
cada uno quisiere: hase de mezclar todo en una olla: y ha de cocer
mucho: llevar sus especias: y despus de bien cocida, se harn platos
de ella, con mostaza de mosto, o de otra, y por encima los platos chale
perejil, porque parece bien, y es muy bueno."
(Domingo Hernndez de Maceras, Libro de arte de cocina, 1607, edited in:
Mara de los ngeles Prez Samper: La alimentacin en la Espaa del
Siglo de Oro. Huesca (La Val de Onsera) 1998, this recipe: p. 217; see
also the introduction p. 84-87 about the differences between Diego
Granado 1599, Martnez Montio 1611 and Hernndez de Maceras 1607.)
Cheers,
Thomas
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:48:45 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC -Translations of Spanish Foods
And it came to pass on 26 Jan 00,, that Tollhase1 at aol.com wrote:
> I have a fellow faculty member who has told me she would love to translate
> Spanish recipes for me. Give me some original sources or email me copies
> of recipes and lets see what she can do.
Frederich,
Why don't you point her at Granado? Diego Granado, _Libro del arte de
cozina_, 1599. Although I've enjoyed dipping into it now and again (and
thereby neglecting my work on de Nola), it's got 763 recipes -- more
than enough to keep any translator busy. There's a 1971 edition which I
got fairly easily through ILL. Madrid, Sociedad de Biblifilos Espaoles,
1971. I don't have an ISBN, but the OCLC # is 5345791, which should
help.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 02:56:49 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning <gloning at Mailer.Uni-Marburg.DE>
Subject: SC - Translations of Spanish foods
Frederich,
just in case you are filling in ILL-forms right now. I am currently
reading this book, that might be worth checking:
- -- Mara de los Angeles Prez Samper: La alimentacin en la Espaa del
Siglo de Oro. [With an edition of:] - Domingo Hernndez de Maceras:
'Libro de arte de cocina' (1607). Huesca 1998.
It contains an edition of Hernndez de Maceras, one of the three
important cookbooks of professional (male) cooks around 1600 (the other
two being Diego Granado Maldonado 1599, Lady Brighid mentioned, and F.
Martinez Montio 1611; Martinez, like Hernndez was working as a cook
since the late 16th century).
In the introductory text of M. de los Angeles Prez Samper, she quotes
widely from hitherto unpublished Spanish manuscripts from (or for) women
of the 16th century. Thus: if you are interested in recipes of Spanish
women of the 16th century, the introductory text contains about 15
recipes (p.52ff.). In addition, there are several recipes from
manuscripts of "confiteros" and from the first printed book in Spanish
about "Confitera" (Baeza 1592).
Someone also mentioned the culinary recipes in the Manual de mugeres
recently. [Manual de mugeres en el qual se contienen muchas y diversas
reeutas muy buenas (c. 1475-1525). Ed. por Alicia Martnez Crespo.
Salamanca (Ediciones Universidad de Salamanca) 1995. -- Some culinary
recipes, together with medical recipes, beauty recipes, ...]
T.
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 17:05:00 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese Recipes
Steven Cowley wrote:
> Does anyone know of any period references containing portuguese
> recipes? I have a hankering to do a feast with a portuguese theme. I
> really like modern portuguese food but I have been unable to turn up any
> portuguese manuscripts.
The University of Texas library system has a book that contains a period
portuguese menu, names only, no recipes, in portuguese. That's the closest I've
come so far. Let me know if you find anything better.
_Um Tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV / Instituto Nacional do Livro._
(Rio de Janeiro) : Instituto Nacional do Livro, Ministerio da Educacao e
Cultura, 1963.
NOTES:
"Edicao preparada pelo Professor Antonio Gomes Filho."
"Reproducao, em fac-simile, do manuscrito I-E-33, da Biblioteca Nacional de
Napoles."
Includes index.
SUBJECTS:
Cookery, Portuguese--Early works to 1500.
Manuscripts, Portuguese--Facsimiles.
OTHER AUTHORS:
Filho, Antonio Gomes.
Rio de Janeiro. Instituto Nacional do Livro.
Naples. Biblioteca nazionale. Mss. (I-E-33).
OCLC NUMBER:
6161941
- -Magdalena
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 08:52:03 SAST-2
From: "Jessica Tiffin" <jessica at beattie.uct.ac.za>
Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese recipes
Steffan of the Close asked:
> Does anyone know of any period references containing portuguese
> recipes? I have a hankering to do a feast with a portuguese theme. I
> really like modern portuguese food but I have been unable to turn up any
> portuguese manuscripts.
We have one manuscript which is a translation into English of the
translation into modern Portuguese of a 15th-century Portuguese
cookbook. Full details: Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo
XV (A Text on Portuguese Cooking from the Fifteenth Century)
Translated by Jane L. Crowley From a modern Portuguese text by
Professor Antonio Gomes Filho. Copyright 1988 by Jane L. Crowley
This contains some interesting recipes, but it's impossible to
determine where the recipe is translating the original and where the
translator is filling in for herself - it reads more like a modern
cookbook than a medieval one. The collection used to be in
Cariadoc's collection, but as far as I remember he removed it after
discovering that he was infringing copyright.
Jehanne
Lady Jehanne de Huguenin * Seneschal, Shire of Adamastor, Cape Town
(Jessica Tiffin, University of Cape Town)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:39:04 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - New World Foods-rant (was: turkey)
LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> I am not criticizing your post so much as trying to understand the logic
> behind it. The fact remains that we have many hundreds of recipes dating from
> pre-13th century CE Europe that can be used in feasts. The fact that they are
> from Andalusia is totally irrelevant so far as there usefulness in
> reproducing pre-13th century CE European feasts.
>
> Ras
I guess the point (and it can be argued either way, but I'd rather not
just now) is that a lot of the Andalusian recipes are demonstrably for
recognizable variants on Arabic foods, not really European ones. If you
look at the elusive Huici-Miranda thingy, the bad translation of the
12th-13th-century Arabic/Andalusian manuscript that Rudolf Grewe was
working on when he died, it appears to be fairly unique in that it
represents what seems to be both pre-Islamic (or at least non-Islamic)
Spanish cookery, as well as Islamic cookery that seems to have been at
least marginally adapted to the Spanish environment. It uses olive oil
more than butter, tail fat, and sesame oil, for example, which Arabic
sources like al-Baghdadi don't. It seems to represent an avoidance of
chick peas; whether as a class or cultural or just a geographical
characteristic is unclear. In short, in spite of being in Arabic, it is
pretty clearly Spanish food (I should say Iberian, huh, since Spain as
we know it had yet to be united). I don't believe this is as true of a
number of other Arabic-language sources found in Spain, even if they
were used as viable cookbooks in Europe, any more than the couple of
Chinese cookbooks I have that are written in Chinese should be looked at
and immediately classified as American cookbooks.
That's the point, although I do think many of us tend to overlook the
Islamic sources when considering medieval European cuisine. I have to
make something of a conscious effort, myself, at times.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:55:53 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Spinach (recipe)
I "redacted" this recipe for dinner tonight. (I use the quotation marks,
because it's so simple, it really needs no interpretation.)
Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_ (Spanish, 1599)
Translation and redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
PARA HAZER ESCUDILLA DE ESPINACAS -- To make a dish of
spinach
Take spinach in the Spring, and wash them with many changes of
water, taking the most tender part, and fry them with oil, or with cow's
butter, or poultry fat. Afterwards, finish cooking them with poultry broth,
and dried plums, and serve them hot with their broth.
1 10-oz bag of fresh spinach leaves, stems trimmed
1 tsp. olive oil
2 oz. pitted prunes, chopped
1 cup chicken broth
Wash the spinach well. Fry it in the oil until wilted, then add broth and
prunes. Simmer until spinach is tender.
Notes: I confess that I didn't bother to trim the stems; I just cooked the
spinach a little longer. The prunes added a wonderful note of sweetness
to the dish. De Nola has a similar recipe, in which he recommends
adding raisins.
Unfortunately, I suspect that many SCAdians would look at a feast
menu, see "spinach and prunes" and run screaming into the night.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 17:28:22 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Spanish/Greek cooking
And it came to pass on 8 Mar 00,, that Mbatmantis at aol.com wrote:
> I am looking to purchase one or two late period Spanish or Greek
> cookbooks;
I have no notion about Greek, but I can tell you what's available for
period Spanish cuisine. First, two questions: are you looking for
something that includes modern redactions (with measurements, etc.)
and more importantly, do you read Spanish?
If you read Spanish, there are several late-period cookbooks that have
been reprinted in modern times. I am not sure if any of them are
currently in print and available for purchase. One option is to do as I
have done -- request them via inter-library loan and trot down to the
nearest cheap photocopy shop.
The most detailed of the Spanish cookbooks is _Libro del Arte de
Cozina_ (1599) by Diego Granado. It has in excess of 700 recipes,
some of which were lifted from an earlier work by Ruperto de Nola.
If you don't read Spanish, the options are more limited.
_The Original Mediterranean Cuisine_ by Barbara Santich contains a
selection of Catalan and Italian recipes in the original, in English
translation, and with a modern redaction. There are some translated
recipes from various sources in Stephan's Florilegium. There are
several gentles (myself included) who are working on translating some
of the late-period and post-period cookbooks, but I don't know of any
that are yet done and available for purchase.
If you have specific questions, let me know, and I'll answer as best as I
can.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 00:22:33 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Online Spanish resource
A gracious lady on another list just introduced me to a wonderful
website. It's all in Spanish, but for those who read the language, it's a
treasure trove. It's the Virtual Cervantes Library at
http://cervantesvirtual.com and it contains many fulltext books from late-
period Spain.
Among the titles of interest to this list:
"Arte Cisoria" (1423 carving/serving manual)
"Manual de Mugeres" (late 15th century household manual w/ recipes
for foods, perfumes, cosmetics & medicines)
"Obra de Agricultura" (agricultural/animal husbandry manual, c. 1513)
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 01:21:43 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Confectionery manual
And it came to pass on 6 Apr 00,, that Lee-Gwen Booth wrote:
> >From Gwynydd unto the Gathered Cooks:
> Oh, and could I have some more information about the
> 14th century Confectionery Manual which was mentioned earlier?
I think that was in a post I made. I just got, via ILL, an article which was
listed in the bibliography of _A Drizzle of Honey_ (a recent cookbook
which about the food of secret Jews in medieval Spain). The article
contains the text of a 14th century Catalan confectionery manual.
The manual contains 33 recipes, most of them for fruits and vegetables
preserved in syrup, from ginger to apples to horseradish(!). There's also
a recipe for compost, and a perfume recipe and several candies.
Pinyonat is a kind of pine-nut brittle made with sugar and rosewater,
which I tried unsuccessfully to redact tonight. Hazelnut torron is a
honey-based candy, which is still made in Spain today. And casquetes
are some kind of fried pastry/sweetmeat, made with dough and honey
and spices, and three kinds of nuts.
The text of the manual is in 14th century Catalan, which I can just
puzzle out with the help of dictionaries. Fortunately, the glossary and
the introductory comments by the editor are in modern Spanish. And,
like many period cookbooks, the language is simple and repetitive.
The original manuscript has no listed author. It is bound with several
other cookery manuscripts in a book at the University Library of
Barcelona.
The article is:
Faraudo de Saint-Germain, Luis, "'Libre de totes maneres de confits':
Un tratado manual cuatrocentrista de arte de dulceria", Boletin de la
Real Academia de Buenas Letras de Barcelona, 1946, vol. 19, pp. 97-
134.
I really don't need another cookbook to distract me, but I just couldn't
resist...
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:28:35 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Period cookery recipes-Spanish
And it came to pass on 10 May 00,, that Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote:
> I also read that there's a book of Carving for that time and place too!!!
The 1423 _Arte Cisoria_ by Enrique de Villena. It has not been
translated, AFAIK.
It contains descriptions of carving instruments and instructions on
serving, as well as detailed descriptions of how to carve various
foodstuffs. This is more than how to dismember a sheep or a salmon; it
also has chapters on fruits and vegetables which are customarily carved
for eating. It contains "serving suggestions" which mention specific
modes of preparation, for instance, the section on chicken says that
you cut it thusly if you are going to serve it in mirraust or in dobladura,
but if you are going to serve it in capirotada (a kind of layered dish with
bread and fowl and sauce), you should not only cut it into serving
pieces, but remove the bones, so the feasters don't get their hands
greasy.
I believe my translation of the beginning of chapter six, which lists foods
eaten in Spain, is in the Florilegium.
I could have sworn that it was online in Spanish, as part of the Virtual
Cervantes library, but I can no longer find it in the index there. What
*is* still there is the _Manual de Mugeres_, a late 15th/early 16th
century ladies' household manual. There are 29 cooking recipes, plus
formulas for cosmetics and medicines. Of particular interest are the
recipes for chorizo (sausage), quince pies, rice casserole, Moorish pot
(stew with goat, mutton, onions, and chickpeas), pies of chicken
breasts, and morcillas finas (a kind of boiled pudding, made in sausage
casings). Most of the recipes are not very long, nor is the Spanish
particularly difficult to read.
http://cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/9620172802974039821375
26/
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 20:32:01 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Repost: carrot pie
Since I've had several requests for this...
The only carrot pie recipe that I know is late period Spanish.
However, it does not greatly resemble a modern pumpkin pie. Here
is a translation of the recipe; perhaps it will be useful to you.
Torta of Carrot
From: Diego Granado, "Libro del Arte de Cozina", 1599
Translation: Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
Wash and scrape the carrots, and remove them from the water and
cook them in good meat broth, and being cooked remove them and
chop them small with the knife, adding to them mint and marjoram,
and for each two pounds of chopped carrots [use] a pound of
Tronchon cheese and a pound and a half of buttery Pinto cheese,
and six ounces of fresh cheese, and one ounce of ground pepper,
one ounce of cinnamon, two ounces of candied orange peel cut
small, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, three ounces of cow's
butter, and from this composition make a torta with puff pastry*
above and below, and the tortillon [pie pan?] with puff pastry all
around, and make it cook in the oven, making the crust of sugar,
cinnamon, and rosewater. In this manner you can make tortas of
all sorts of roots, such as that of parsley, having taken the core out of
them.
*The word used here for pastry, "ojaldre" ("hojaladre" in the modern
spelling) means puff pastry according to my modern Spanish dictionary,
and the etymology of the word (from hoja, "leaf") would seem to indicate
that it is the period meaning as well. There is a recipe for a veal torta in
the same cookbook which calls for the same kind of pastry, and gives
instructions for making it:
To Make Puff Pastry Pies of Veal Neck
Take wheat flour and knead it with egg yolks, tepid water, salt, and a
little bit of pork lard, and make it in such a manner that the dough is
more soft than hard, and pummel it very well on a table, and make a
thin torta, but swiftly, longer than wide and anoint all of it with melted
lard which is not very hot and begin to roll up the narrow part, and make
a roll the thickness of an arm which will come to be solid, in such a
manner that it can be cut, then cut a round slice two fingers in
thickness, and have separately another firm dough well kneaded, made
from wheat flour, egg yolks, water, and salt without lard, and make of it
a pie bottom which is of the bigness of the pastry, and put in it a
mixture made as in the preceeding chapter [ie., the veal filling from the
previous recipe], keeping the same order to make the mixture high and
pyramid- shaped, because the cover that you make is of the same
paste, in cooking it can better become puffed [literally, "leafed"], and
before you put it in the oven anoint the pie with melted lard, which is
cold and not hot, because it clings better to the paste, and then put it in
the oven, which must be well swept, and clean, and level, and
moderately hot, and especially the upper part, so that the said puff
pastry can better puff, and as it begins to puff, anoint it with lard with a
feather fastened to a small cane without removing it from the oven,
which you will do two or three times, and being cooked you must serve
it hot dusted on top with sugar, and if you wish you can put the broth
which we have said in the previous chapter. And be aware that if the
ceiling of the oven is low, that will be better, because all the puff
pastries want the fire hotter above than below. Which you must beware
of in the other pies with puff pastry.
The recipe then goes on to discuss an alternate (and inferior)
dough which is used in Rome, and other fillings that can be used
with this pastry.
Note that while the veal pie has puff pastry only on the top crust, the
carrot torta calls for puff pastry in the top *and* bottom crusts. The
"crust" of sugar, cinnamon, and rosewater I would interpret as a sweet
topping for the upper crust. I haven't tried this myself, but it sounds
tasty, and with the quantities given, it shouldn't be too hard to redact.
Remember that medieval eggs would be smaller. If you're not a pastry-
baker, ready-made puff pastry can be found in the frozen foods section
of your local grocer.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 15:59:56 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - Catalan cookbook (was honey strawberry spread)
And it came to pass on 17 Jun 00,, that Serian wrote:
> name of book please?
> Serian
"Libre de totes maneres de confits". It's a 14th century Catalan
manuscript, containing 33 recipes for preserves and candies. It has not
been published in book form. The text was reprinted in a 1947 issue of
a Spanish journal. The recipes are in 14th century Catalan; the notes
and glossary are in modern Spanish. I have a photocopy. I can read it
well enough to understand and paraphrase, but not to really translate.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:09:33 -0500
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: SC - Brighid's Spanish Cinnamon-Fruit Rolls
A while back, Lady Brighid posted the following recipe, which we have
now tried out:
Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del arte de cozina_, 1599
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
PARA HAZER TORTILLON RELLENO -- To make a stuffed tortillon
Knead two pounds of the flower of the flour with six yolks of fresh
eggs, and two ounces of rosewater, and one ounce of leaven diluted
with tepid water, and four ounces of fresh cow's butter[3], or pork
lard[3] which has no bad odor, and salt, and be stirring said dough
for the space of half an hour, and make a thin leaf[4] or pastry[5]
and anoint it with melted fat which should not be very hot, and cut
the edges around, sprinkle the pastry with four ounces of sugar, and
one ounce of cinnamon, and then have a pound of small raisins of
Corinth, which have been given a boil in wine, and a pound of dates
cooked in the same wine, and cut small, and all of the said things
should be mixed together with sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, and
nutmeg, and put the said mixture spread over the pastry with some
morsels of cow's butter, and beginning with the long end of the
pastry, roll it upwards, taking care not to break the dough, and this
tortillon or roll must not be rolled more than three turns, so that
it will cook better, and it does not have to go very tight. Anoint
it on top with fat, not very hot. It will begin to twist by itself
at one end which is not very closed[6], in such a manner that it
becomes like a snail. Have the pie pan ready with a pastry of the
same dough[7], somewhat fatty, anointed with melted fat, and put the
tortillon lightly upon it without pressing it, and make it cook in
the oven, or under a large earthen pot with temperate fire, tending
it from time to time by anointing it with melted cow's butter, and
being almost cooked, put sugar on top, and rosewater, and serve it
hot. The pie pan in which you cook the tortillones must be wide, and
must have very low edges.
Translator's notes:
...[3] Both of these phrases use the same noun: "manteca". This can
mean either butter or lard. I have translated "manteca de vaca" as
cows butter, "manteca de puerco" as pork lard, and undifferentiated
"manteca" as fat.
[4] "Ojuela" -- literally, small leaf
[5] "ojaldre" (sometimes spelt hojaldre). Its etymology is also from
"hoja" (leaf). The modern definition is puff-pastry. The recipes I
have seen for pies made with ojaldre call for a rich unleavened dough
with eggs and fat, about half a finger thick . Its coated with
melted fat, rolled into a cylinder the thickness of an arm, then
sliced into pieces two fingers thick. (Presumably these slices are
then rolled out, though the recipe doesn't specify.) It's basted
with melted fat during baking, the better to separate into leaves.
("Ojaldrar", one of those verbs which require a sentence to translate
properly.) Some recipes call for the base or top pastry of a pie to
contain a certain number of ojaldres. This tortillon recipe seems to
say that the dough can either be just rolled out thinly, or it can be
turned into a sort of ojaldre (though they are not normally leavened,
AFAIK). If the former, I don't think it is intended to be too thin,
since the roll is only supposed to make three turns.
[6] I gather from this that one end *should* be tightly closed,
leaving the other to expand into a snail-like trumpet.
[7] This pastry underneath seems to function as part of the pan, not
part of the tortillon. It appears in other recipes as well. A
non-stick cookie sheet might render it unnecessary.
My recipe (half the original):
dough:
3 1/2 c flour = 1 lb
1/4 c butter = 2 oz
3 egg yolks
2 T rose water = 1 oz
1 scant T dried yeast (1 package)
5/8 c lukewarm water
1 t salt
filling:
1/2 lb = 1 3/4 c currents
1/2 lb = 1 3/4 c chopped dates
1 1/2 c wine
2 T sugar
1/4 t cinnamon
1/8+ t nutmeg
1/16 t cloves
to use in making loaf:
1/4 c sugar
1/2 oz cinnamon (I need to measure how much volume this is)
1 T butter
~ 2 T melted butter
1/2 t rosewater
1/2 T sugar
Note that most of the quantities are specified in the original recipe.
Mix flour and salt in a large bowl; mix yeast with warm water, beat
egg yolks with rosewater, melt 1/4 c butter. Make a well in the
center of the flour and pour the liquids into it, stir together with
a wooden spoon, then knead for half an hour (!). Let rise an hour and
20 minutes. To prepare filling, bring wine to a boil, add currents
and dates and let boil two minutes; drain and add 2 T sugar and
spices. When dough has risen, pinch off about an eighth of it and
spread it out flat in the bottom of a greased 8"x 8" pan; spread 1/2
t melted butter over it. Spread the rest of the dough out on a
floured board to a rectangle 8"x15" (I did 7"x 11" and it wasn't big
enough), spread with 1 t melted butter, and sprinkle on 1/4 c sugar
and 1/2 oz cinnamon. Spread the filling on top of that; dot with 1 T
of butter in pieces. Roll up and pinch together to seal, so that the
filling won't all ooze out. Put on top of the piece of dough in the
pan and spread another 1 t of melted butter over the top. Let rise
another 10 minutes or so and put in a pre-heated oven at 350. Bake 45
minutes or so, taking out halfway through to spread with another 1 t
melted butter. After 40 minutes baking, sprinkle with rosewater and
sugar, then put back for another 5 minutes.
Comments: good. Too much filling per amount of dough for my taste,
but that's what the recipe says. The piece of dough it is put on
becomes part of the loaf, rather than remaining behind in the pan. I
rolled this up as I do cinnamon bread, and it didn't really fit the
description: didn't twist by itself until it becomes like a snail; I
can't make much sense of this. Anyone have any suggestions?
Next time: do full recipe; knead for less time and compare resulting
texture to see if the full half hour is really necessary; try rolling
from the side of the rectangle rather than the end to see if I can
get it more snail-like that way--maybe roll tighter ("more closed")
at one end than at the other. Get volume measure on cinnamon.
Elizabeth of Dendermonde/Betty Cook
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:12:36 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Brighid's Spanish Cinnamon-Fruit Rolls
And it came to pass on 18 Jun 00,, that david friedman wrote:
> A while back, Lady Brighid posted the following recipe, which we have now
> tried out:
[snip]
I'm delighted that you did this one. It looked very good, but I never got
around to redacting it. As it is, I bake far too much sweet stuff for my
own good.
> Comments: good. Too much filling per amount of dough for my taste,
> but that's what the recipe says. The piece of dough it is put on
> becomes part of the loaf, rather than remaining behind in the pan.
When I first posted the recipe, I recall someone mentioning a modern
recipe for a similar pastry, which is a cone-shaped roll atop a flat piece
of dough. (Fluden? Fladen? Something like that.) That gentle
indicated that the two pieces normally fused together in baking.
> I rolled this up as I do cinnamon bread, and it didn't really fit the
> description: didn't twist by itself until it becomes like a snail; I can't
> make much sense of this. Anyone have any suggestions?
[snip]
> try rolling from the side of the rectangle rather than the end to see if
> I can get it more snail-like that way--maybe roll tighter ("more
> closed") at one end than at the other.
This was my thought. If you roll it like a cornucopia, perhaps pinching
the small end together and leaving the wider end fairly loose, I think it
would tend to flare out as the dough expands in baking. I do *not* see
that it would tend to curl into a spiral unless it was laid out that way.
> Elizabeth of Dendermonde/Betty Cook
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <harper at piranha.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Flan: Period?
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 09:19:18 -0400
Tristan Trout wrote:
> For a medieval Spanish feast: Is flan documentably medieval? Obviously,
> flan is pretty simple, but I can't find a recipe for it. Everything seems to
> be almond pudding or bread pudding or savory pudding.
Not as far as I can tell, if by "flan" you mean the sweet milk-and-egg
custard. The _Libro de Guisados_ (1529) has a recipe for "Flaones que
es fruta de sarten" ("custard which is a fritter"). The flaon is a
mixture of new cheese and eggs, flavored with dried mint and rosewater
(no sugar). It is then used as a filling for fried turnovers, which
are topped with honey or syrup and sprinkled with cinnamon sugar.
Probably very tasty, but closer to cheesecake than what you are
looking for.
The nearest period dish in flavor and texture that I can think of is
"ginestada". This pudding contains almond milk or goat's milk,
thickened with rice flour, and mixed with sugar and assorted dried
fruits and nuts. Some versions are colored with saffron.
Sorry I can't be of more help. I do, however, know various period
Spanish recipes for trout. :-)
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain *** mka Robin Carroll-Mann
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <harper at piranha.idt.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Flan: Period?
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:07:21 -0400
To: tristantrout at aol.com
Tristan Trout wrote:
> For a medieval Spanish feast: Is flan documentably medieval?
I answered in haste last time, so there's something I'd like to add.
There is one other period dish which is somewhat closer to modern flan
than either the flaon or the ginestada recipes I mentioned. "Manjar
Imperial" (Imperial Dish), also from the _Libro de Guisados_, is a
pudding made from milk, sugar, rice flour and egg yolks, and sprinkled
with cinnamon sugar. It's cooked in a pot over a fire, not baked in
the oven, nor does it have a caramelized coating. However, it may
suffice for your purposes. If you'd like the recipe, let me know.
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain *** mka Robin Carroll-Mann
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:14:57 -0400
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <harper at idt.net>
Organization: Department of Redundancy Department
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
To: Tristan Trout <tristantrout at aol.com>
Subject: Re: Flan: Period?
Here it is:
Source: Ruperto de Nola, _Libro de Guisados_ (Spanish, 1529)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
MANJAR IMPERIAL - Imperial Dish
For half a dozen bowls, take half an azumbre of milk and half a pound
of ground and sifted rice and half a dozen eggs (only the yolks), and
put the milk and the rice flour to cook in a saucepan; and stir it
constantly in one direction, away from the fire, until it is well
beaten and dissolved; and this is before it is put to cook on the
hearth; and then cast the half pound of sugar into it and put it to
cook on the hearth upon the embers, keeping it away from the flames so
that the smoke doesn't reach it; and when it becomes thickened, take
it off the hearth; and take the well beaten egg yolks; and cast into
them a spoonful of milk; and stir it all the time in one direction;
and return it to the embers that it may properly finish thickening;
and when this is
done take it off the hearth and leave it aside to rest; and if you
wish to eat it, dish it out immediately; and cast on the dishes sugar
and cinnamon.
notes: an "azumbre" is a medieval Spanish measurement of liquid equal
to about 2 liters. Rice flour is available at Asian grocery stores
and health food stores.
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain *** mka Robin Carroll-Mann
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:49:28 +0100
From: Jon Randall <Baph at thornapple.co.uk>
Subject: RE: SC - Manual de mujeres #109,111,132,134,135
I take this moment to de-lurk, and to add some information about Spanish
Cooking. Having a wife of spanish extraction (meaning she was liberated
from Spain <G>), we often have made and eaten Empanada or empanadillas
(little Empanadas), so can comment on both construction and dough type.
> Do you have anything about what empanadas/turnovers were--what kind
> of dough and what kind of physical construction?
Empanadas in construction can be the following:
Flat and 11 X 8 inches with a top and bottom crust. This type has the hole
in the top crust and is often decorated with bits of pastry decorated like a
tic tac toe board (without X's and 0's !), then glazed with milk or egg.
Alternatively they can be round. The size of your Empanada is determined by
how many you need to feed, oven size and number of strong, virile men in
your village to lift it !
Empanadillas, on the other hand are small(ish), D-shaped and are made by
folding a circle of pastry in half and fluting the edge. These are useful
for taking into the fields as they are the ideal pocket snack/meal.
As for the pastry, this is a simple flour, fat (mainly olive oil), water and
salt mixture, not unlike short (crust) pastry. You can add other
flavourings to your pastry according to whether this is a sweet or savoury
dish.
Flavourings may be Anise (aniseed) liqueur, saffron, crushed almonds
(especially in Southern Spain), and cinnamon.
> Is there a similar word in Spanish that means soft?
There is a word meaning soft "blandos" which could conceivably be the real
translation. Remember that quinces, if left for too long will go mushy
rather than soft. Don't worry if this happens as you can alternatively make
this into quince jelly which is used as an accompaniment to meats and strong
cheeses.
Any further questions relating to Spanish cuisine or foods associated with
rituals don't hesitate to ask.
Baph (just plain Baph, not Lord Baph as this is my mundane title as well.)
with assistance from
Maria del Mar Malo Gallego (yes, yes her mundane name as well !)
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:53:15 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Manual de mujeres #109,111,132,134,135
And it came to pass on 9 Sep 00,, that david friedman wrote:
> At 2:47 PM -0700 9/5/00, Dana Huffman wrote:
>
> >132 Receta para empanadas de membrillos
> >Recipe for quice turnovers
[snip]
> This one looks interesting. Questions (I unfortunately do not know
> Spanish):
>
> Do you have anything about what empanadas/turnovers were--what kind
> of dough and what kind of physical construction?
There are some indications in other cookbooks. Nola has a couple of
empanada recipes. The one for baked meat/fish empanadas has no
crust instructionsm except to put a vent hole on top. The recipe that
follows, for fried sugar empanadas says "take dough made from flour and
knead it with good eggs and sweet fine oil".
Granado (1599) has a number of empanada recipes. The first one in the
meat section has instructions for the dough. It's made of sifted flour
kneaded with cold water, eggs, and salt, and a little lard. The only
indication of construction is that the empanada should be wider on the
bottom. It is glazed (for the sake of color) with beaten eggs or water
tinted with saffron. The first empanada recipe in the fish section says
that the crust is to be made in the same way, except that in place of
the eggs one should use wine of the Membrilla (quince-bud, according
to my dictionary), and oil in place of the lard. And if one wants to color
the crust, use saffron-tinted water.
> "And when they are white/blancos"... I find it hard to believe that
> quinces cooked in honey-water will turn white--I would expect a
> slowly darkening tan to brown, like applesauce/apple butter. Is there a
> similar word in Spanish that means soft?
blando.
> >134 Receta para cazuela de arroz
> >...
> >Recipe for rice casserole
> > Put in a casserole/saucepan rice and grated cheese,
> >that is very good, and salt; and stir it very well. And
> >then put with it the broth that seems to you sufficient,
> >the broth being of fat[ty] beef. And put on top the beef
> >that you want, and cook it in the oven. And when it is
> >almost cooked, remove it and put on top of all slices of
> >fresh cheese, and egg yolks and spices. And then return it
> >to the oven and finish cooking. And when it is cooked,
> >make plates or bowls of them, which[ever] you prefer.
>
> I'm wondering about the spices to be put on top. Any guesses from
> other recipes in this book or from related recipes in other Spanish
> sources what they are likely to be?
Nola puts cinnamon and sugar on rice cooked in meat broth (then
again, Nola puts cinnamon and sugar on nearly everything.) Granado
has a similar recipe for rice with broth, cheese and eggs (though he has
the eggs beaten and stirred into the rice). He suggests pepper,
cinnamon, and saffron. If you want to serve it simply, without the eggs
to congeal the dish, you can put only cheese, sugar, cinnamon, and a
little of the broth on top.
> Elizabeth/Betty Cook
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:24:32 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: SC - So-Called "Oil from the Spleen"
Either Dionisio Perez was an idiot, or he was working with a seriously
flawed manuscript.
Let me explain. Perez was the editor of the 1929 printing of the 1529
edition of Nola. I have mostly been working from his book, though I also
have a facsimile manuscript, because print is a lot easier to read than
calligraphy. (And the footnotes are helpful.) However, lately I have been
discovering some troubling errors in his transcription. There's a recipe
for fava beans which says to take the whitest ones that have not been
"cocidas" by weevils. Huh? "Cocidas" means cooked. As far as *I*
know, weevils are content to eat their food raw. I thought it might be an
archaic secondary meaning, but couldn't find one. I asked someone
else who has worked with the text -- a native speaker -- and she said
that her edition said "comidas" -- eaten. Makes perfect sense. So I
looked at the facsimile, and there was a perfectly clear "comidas" in the
midst of that sentence.
In the "manteca" thread, Vincente and I were discussing the puzzling
"aceite de bazo" -- so-called oil from the spleen. Well, "bazo" does
mean spleen, no getting around that. But when I looked in the facsimile
this morning, what I saw was "aceite debaxo". (Note the 'x', where
Perez spelled it with a 'z'.) Now, you have to understand that medieval
Spanish often uses an 'x' where modern spelling would use 'j'.
Transforming "debaxo" into "debajo" makes the word mean
"underneath", which makes perfect sense. And the phrase in the recipe
now reads: "cast in a little oil underneath so that the dough does not stick to
the frying pan". (The recipe is for a tart, baked Dutch-oven style in a frying-
pan with coals on the lid.)
Carmen Irazno, editor of the 1969 printing of the 1525 edition of Nola,
transcribed the word as "debaxo", and the glossary in back says "debaxo-
debajo".
It was my intention anyway to check my translation against the facsimile, but
now I will do so much more carefully.
Brighid, muttering darkly into her coffee
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 01:52:55 +0100
From: TG <gloning at Mailer.Uni-Marburg.DE>
Subject: SC - early spanish beverages
<< ... any of you spanish junkies out there have any suggestions for
beverages contemporary with the Libre de Sent sovi? ... >>
In the meantime, while the spanish junkies out there look for their
xeroxes etc., please allow for some preliminary notes and remarks on
possible sources ...
1 -- First, IIRC, the Libre de Sent Sovi is extant in 15th century
manuscripts, whereas the text is said to be written in the 14th century.
Thus, I assume, we are looking for 14th/15th century sources.
2 -- Maria de los Angeles Perez Samper, in the introduction to her
edition of Domingo Hernandez de Maceras 'Libro del arte de cozina', says
that red wine was very common in modern (16th c. onwards) Spain and that
spiced wines were traditionally used since the mdidle ages: "El vino era
en la Espana moderna la bebida ordinaria. Todos bebian vino ...
Generalmente se bebian vinos jovenes, de poca calidad ... Desde la edad
media eran muy tradicionales los vinos especiados y aromatizados, como
el hipocras" (p. 82; all accents left out for the sake of transmission).
Alas, there are no footnotes with the details. According to this, it
seems, that a young, red wine of poor quality could serve your purposes
... ;-)
3 -- A good source for spiced wines (even a source of Catalan origin!)
is Arnald of Villanova's 'Liber de vinis'. However it is uncertain,
whether or not these wines were used for non-medical purposes, too. In
any case, there is an English translation of this text based on the
first printed edition 1478 in Henry Sigerist's facsimile, published in
1943.
4 -- Another Catalan source is Francesc Eiximenis 14th century 'Terc del
Crestia' [The third book about the Christian], a moral treatise
containing, among other things, rules for the use of food and beverages.
These chapters were edited in a small booklet (Barcelona 1983) by Jorge
J.E. Gracia: "Com usar be de beure e menjar. Normes morals contingudes
en el "Terc del Crestia" ...". A source with some information on what to
drink, how to drink, and how much to drink.
5 -- Then, the dietetic texts with their rules for the use of beverages
come to mind. I have no Spanish/catalan source at hand for the moment,
but have just finished proofreading two chapters from Aldobrandino of
Siena's 'Regime du corps' (French, 13th century with a manuscript
tradition from the 13th, 14th and 15th century; there are Italian
translations, too). Chapter III/2 is about beverages. He mentions:
water, wine, beer ("de ciervoise"), apple wine, verjus, vin aigre,
moures (blackberry juice or wine?). Aldobrandino's chapter is based on
the writings of Isaac, so I am not sure if his chapter reflects 13th
century practice or not. Anyway: if you want to, you can look at the
original text in French at (III/1 is about cereals and bread; III/2
about beverages):
http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/aldosien.htm
An interesting question! I am looking forward to the contributions of
the spanish junkies out there.
Th.
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 13:46:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese Cookbook
- --- BareToad at aol.com wrote:
> I have been looking for _Um Tratado da Cozinha
> Portuguesa do Seculo XV_
> without any success. I would really like to get my
> hands on a copy, or at
> least portions, of this book. I am a fluent
> Portuguese speaker (English is
> my second language) and I am willing to translate in
> exchange for any part(s)
> of the book that are sent me. Any takers?
>
> Mairin
Mairin, you should go to your local library and ask
for this book through ILL (inter-library loan).
There are two different editions:
1) Biblioteca nazionale (Naples, Italy)
Um tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV.
[Ed. preparada pelo professorAntonio Gomes Filho.
Rio de Janeiro] Instituto Nacional do Livro, 1963.
viii, 184 p. facsims. 24 cm. (Dicionario da lingua
portuguesa. Textos e vocabularios, 2)
2) Um tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV /
[organizaðcao e notas de Antonio Gomes Filho].
[Rio de Janeiro] : Edicoes do Departamento
Nacional do Livro, [1994]
184 p. : facsims. ; 21 cm. Colecao Celso
Cunha ; v. 5)
ISBN 8533300263
This is available at:
Harvard Univ.
Columbia Univ.
Florida State Univ.
Univ. of Florida
Univ. of Chicago
Univ. of Michigan
Univ. of Minnesota
State Univ. of New York, Albany
New York Univ.
Brown Univ.
Huette
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 23:58:03 +0100
From: gloning at mailer.uni-marburg.de
Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese Cookbook
There are other editions of this Portuguese cookbook, e.g. the Elizabeth
Thompson Newman dissertation 1964. But more important seems to be the
Manuppella edition from 1967/1987:
- -- Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria. Cdice Portugus I.E. 33. da
Biblioteca Nacional de Npoles. Prlogo, Leitura, Notas aos textos,
Glosssrio e ndices de Giacinto Manuppella. Lisbon: Imprensa
Nacional-Casa da Moeda 1987. [it seems that the text was first published
in 1967 with a copious introduction by Salvador Dias Arnaut; the 1987
edition lacks this introduction, but it was published separately under
the title "A arte de comer em Portugal na Idade Mdia", Lisbon 1986]
The Manuppella edition has a diplomatic text and a modernized version
that is more easily legible. In addition, there is a copious index of
words, that might be helpful for the more troublesome passages.
Manuppella seems not to be content with the achievments of his
predecessors (Gomes Filho: "na~o impecavel" something like 'not without
faults'; Elizabeth Newman: "nem mais feliz" 'not more successful (than
Gomes Filho)').
There is an English translation by Jane L. Crowley based on the modern
Portuguese translation of Gomez Filho, which, for copyright reasons, I
believe, never made it to the web.
Here is recipe Nr. IV from the Manuppella edition to give you an idea of
the original
(x~ = the ~ is above the x;
a~o, o~e = the ~ is above both the a and the o, the o and the e):
[M10] Pasteis de carne
r~ tomara~o carneiro ou lombo de vaca
ou de porquo ffresquo e toucinho
velho porque po~e sabor e pica-
loa~o co~ cheiros e huu~a colher
de mamteygua e crauo e acafra~o
e pimemta e gemgibre e
coemtro sequo e cumo de limo~es
ou dagraco tudo yumto muyto
be~ affoguado e~ huu~a panella
ou tejalla de ffoguo e des q~ ffor
mujto be~ afogado poloa~o a e~fryar/
E depois de mujto be~ ffryo
deitaloa~o e~ os pasteis q~ ja estara~
feitos/ e~ta~o leualosa~o ao fforno
e depois q~ ffore~ tirados do forno
deitarlheis caldo amarello de~tro
nos pasteis e deitarlha~o// E a masa
dos pasteis sera dura e os
pasteis altos/ E desta propia te~para
se ffaze~ os da galynha
e ta~be~ se ffaze~ pasteis de panela
desta tempara/ saluo que ha
galynha hade ser ffeita e~ pesas e cada
pesa sobre sy e pera esteis pasteis
sere~ muyto mais saborosos deitara~o
[M12] na masa a carne crua .//.
Best, Thomas
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:42:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese Cookbook
For the versions that Thomas has mentioned, I have
found these in various libraries:
O "Livro de cozinha" da Infanta D. Maria de Portugal :
primeira edicao integral do codice portugues I.E.
33. da Biblioteca Nacional de Napoles / leitura de
Giacinto Manuppella e Salvador Dias Arnaut ; prologo,
notas aos textos, glossario e indices de Giacinto
Manuppella ; introducao historica de Salvador Dias
Arnaut. -- Coimbra : Universidade, 1967.
cxlv, 257 p. ; 23 cm. -- (Acta Universitatis
Conimbrigensis)
Available from UC Berkeley, Columbia Univ., Harvard
Univ., New York Univ., Brown Univ.
Arnaut, Salvador Dias.
A arte de comer em Portugal na Idade Media :
introducao a o "Livro de cozinha" da Infanta D. Maria
de Portugal / Salvador Dias Arnaut. -- Lisboa : Impr.
Nacional-Casa da Moeda, [1986]
139 p. ; 24 cm. -- (Biblioteca de autores
portugueses)
Available from UC Santa Barbara, USC, New York Univ.,
Brown Univ.
Maria, Infanta of Portugal, 1521-1577.
Livro de cozinha da Infanta D. Maria : codice
portugues I.E. 33 da Biblioteca Nacional de Napoles /
prologo, leitura, notas aos textos, glossario e
indices de Giacinto Manuppella. -- [Lisbon] : Impr.
Nacional, Casa da Moeda, [1987]
xxvi, 257 p. : facsims. ; 24 cm. -- (Biblioteca de
autores portugueses)
Available from UC Santa Barbara, Los Angeles Public
Library, ISC, Stanford Univ., Princeton Univ., New
York Univ.
I cannot find any library with the Crowley translation.
Do you have any information about who published it and
when?
Huette
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:01:16 -0800
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: SC - De Nola Arrives
That book i ordered from Spain, lo, these many weeks ago (like, two
months), has finally arrived! Book and shipping less than $10 US,
which i consider reasonable.
It is a reproduction book. The cover says:
Ruperto de Nola
Libro de Guisados
Majares Y Potajes
intitulado
Libro de Cozina
Miguel de Eguia
Logroo
1529
It is entirely in its period type face with no translation. This
paperback edition was published by Librerias Paris-Valencia SLISBN
84-89725-46-2
Any one (Robin/Brighid?) know anything about this edition?
I certainly can't do what Robin/Brighid has been doing, but it is
rather nifty to have a reproduction cookbook even if i can't read it
very well.
Anahita
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:03:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: SC - De Nola Arrives
- ------Original Message------
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Ruperto de Nola
Libro de Guisados
Majares Y Potajes
intitulado
Libro de Cozina
Miguel de Eguia
Logroo
1529
Any one (Robin/Brighid?) know anything about this edition?
- -------
Yes, I have a copy of that one. It's the edition I've been working with. I
started out with Dionisio Perez' 1929 transcription. The typeface of the
transcription is certainly easier to read, but it is riddled with typos and
even chunks of text omitted.
- -----
I certainly can't do what Robin/Brighid has been doing, but it is rather
nifty to have a reproduction cookbook even if i can't read it very well.
Anahita
- -----
I found that reading the old script got easier as it went along. I got used
to the look of the words, and the abbreviations that are used.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
From: Mastercahankyle at cs.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 11:32:59 EDT
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: [Sca-cooks] A little note on Potatoes & tomatoes
I researching for the feast I am cooking next June, I have acquired some new
books. The one I found on TRADITIONAL SPANISH COOKING has a history of Spain
and Spanish food in the opening section. I found some information which is
interesting.
It states that Columbus brought Sweet Potato plants back to Spain since they
were growing there by 1493. The white potato was discovered around 1530 by
Pizzaro's men near Quito, Ecuador. These potatoes were cultivated by monks in
Seville by 1539 and are said to arrive in Ireland around 1586, possibly from
ships of the Spanish Armada wrecked on the Irish coast.
On Columbus's fourth voyage in 1502, he discovered the cocoa bean in
Nicaragua and brought it back to Spain. It wasn't until 1519 that Hernando
Cortez tasted it prepared as a drink that Spain and Portugal enjoyed a
century-long monopoly on chocolate, which became exceedingly popular.
Tomatoes were brought from Peru and Mexico to Spain in 1520 and passed on to
the kingdom of Naples, which came under Spanish rule about that time. The
Italians were early pioneers in the use of the tomato in cooking while other
Europeans shunned it for 200 years.
The avocado (aguacate in Spanish) was first described in 1519 by a Spanish
explorer who discovered it in Columbia. A chronicler of Cortez, around 1519,
reported seeing turkeys in Mexican markets and said they were cooked daily
for Montezuma's table. All of this enriched the Spanish diet, which by the
16th century was the most varied in Europe.
Among the books mentioned in the bibliography were several Spanish books
(Cocina Gallega, Historia de la Gastronomia Espanola, Cocina
Espanola-Gastronomia e Historia, to mention a few) and several other books
among which are "The Story of Spain" and "Life and Food in the Basque
Country".
I did noticed there were only 5 recipes for potatoes and they were either
fried in olive oil or boiled with other vegetables. They were either used
with garlic cloves or onions and always with parsley.
Just thought you would like to know. Also there was another comment made
that many recipes were handed down from mother to daughter and were not
written down.
Baron Master Cahan Kyle, OP
Clan Kyle
From: Mastercahankyle at cs.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 14:15:55 EDT
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] A little note on Potatoes & tomatoes
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
TerryD at Health.State.OK.US writes:
> Does the book provide a bibliography or notes for the primary sources of
> these facts?
>
> Bear
Yes, I mentioned a few of them at the end of the post. Most of the
bibliography is a list of Spanish books.
Cocina Gallega: Cunqueiro, Alvaro and Filgueria Iglesias, Araceli,Editorial
Everest, Leon, 1982
Historia de la Gastronomia Espanola: Martinez Llopis, Manuel M.,Alianza
Editorial Madrid, 1989
Cocina Espanola-Gastronomia e Historia: Lujan, Nestor and Perucho,Juan,
Ediciones Danae, Barcelona, 1970
Al-Andalus-La Cocina y Su Historia: Benavides Barajas, L., EdicionesDulcina,
Motril, 1992
Las Raices del Acite de Oliva: Ministerio de Agricultura yAlimentacion,
Madrid, 1983
South From Granda: Brenan, Gerald, Penguin Books, Middlesex, 1963
Mediterranean Seafood: Davidson, Alan, Penguin Books, Middlesex, 1972
Food: Root, Waverly, Simon and Schuster, New York, 1980
The Story of Spain: Williams, Mark., Mirador Books, Malaga, 1990
Life and Food in the Basque Country: Sevilla, Maria Jose., Weidenfeldand
Nicolson, London, 1989.
Those are the books that were listed.
Kyle
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
To: "'sca-cooks at ansteorra.org'" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] A little note on Potatoes & tomatoes
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 14:41:10 -0500
> Yes, I mentioned a few of them at the end of the post. Most of the
> bibliography is a list of Spanish books.
>
> Kyle
In other words, no primary sources, although there are a couple of
interesting secondary sources. I was hoping for something a little better
to clearly define the origin of the "facts."
IIRC, the sweet potato is originally commented upon in the Diary of
Christopher Columbus. The white potato was found in Peru in 1530 by Jiminez
de Quesada, while the first written reference appears in 1553 in Chronica
del Peru by Pedro de Leon. And I'm fairly certain that Oviedo wrote of
sweet potatoes in his Historia general y natural de las Indias, Islas y
Tierra-Firme del Mar Oceano (1517).
While potatoes have been tied to hospital accounts in Seville for 1573, I
would like to know the contemporary source for the cultivation recorded in
1539.
The 1586 date for potatoes in Ireland is interesting, because it is the year
Francis Drake raided Cartagena and may have brought potatoes into England as
part of the reprovisioning of his ships after the capture of the city. It
is also the year Drake rescued the survivors of the Virginia colony and
returned them to England, an event which may have tied the potatoes to
Virginia in the mind of John Gerard.
Apocryphally, Walter Raleigh, one of the major promoters of the Virginia
colony, is said to have introduced potatoes to his estates in Ireland.
There is some speculation that if he did so, they were sweet potatoes rather
than white potatoes.
Neither of these potato stories has been proven to scholarly satisfaction,
nor has the idea that the Spanish Armada brought potatoes to Ireland after
it's defeat on August 7, 1588.
As I said, I was hoping for a little better documentation, but the
bibliography may prove useful. Thanks.
Bear
From: "Vincent Cuenca" <bootkiller at hotmail.com>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 19:08:08 +0000
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Introduction
Some mention has been made of my cookbook; FYI, it's a complete translation
of Ruperto de Nola's "Libro de Guisos, Manjares y Potajes, Intiulado Libro
de Cozina". The book was written for King Fernando I of Naples, while Naples
was under Catalan rule. I have translated the entire text of the 1529
Castilian edition: all the material on food service, household management,
and carving, as well as the recipes. I am selling copies mail order as well
as through reputable booksellers (hi, Alban! hi, Devra!); contact me at
denolabooks at hotmail.com for ordering information.
There is another partial translation available on the Internet, in Stefan's
Florilegium. This one was done by our own Lady Brighid (or is it Her
Ladyship now?) She has translated the recipe sections, and her version is
well worth the read. We both worked from the same edition, but as with any
translation, there are differences.
Vicente
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 17:00:24 -0400
From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Spanish Sea feast update
Mastercahankyle at cs.com wrote:> --
> If you all remember, a few months ago, I had made a request about Spanish
> sources for the feast I am doing in June 2002. Here is how it is going:>
> I purchased many cook books concerning Spanish and other Mediterranean
> cooking, including the copy of "Libro de Cozina" of Master Ruperto de Nola,
> 1529 edition translated by Vincent F. Cuenca.
> Baron Cahan Kyle, OP
I don't remember your asking about Spanish sources,
so perhaps it was prior to my becoming active on
the list.I have some interesting citations on Spanish
foods and cooking that might prove interesting to hunt up.
They are going to have to be ordered from Spain, however,
as they aren't turning up in US Bookstores or thru ILL
either.
1. EL ARTE DE LA COCINA EN TIEMPOS DE FELIPE II by
Gregorio Sanchez Meco and Armando Jimenez Tejedor.
1998. ISBN: 8488517130. 351p.
2. LA MESA DEL EMPERADOR: RECETARIO DE CARLOS V EN
YUSTE by Jose V. Serradilla Munoz. 1997.
ISBN: 8489872015. 203p.
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
To: Medieval_Spain at yahoogroups.com, sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:07:29 -0400
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Interesting website on Spanish food
It has some good information (in Spanish) on the history of Spanish
cuisine, including literary and historical references. Those who do
not read Spanish may still be interested in the link marked
"pintura", which contain 17th century paintings which depict food,
kitchens, and feasts. Post-period, but still interesting.
Brighid ni Chiarain *** mka Robin Carroll-Mann
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 15:33:02 -0400
From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Medieval Spanish Cuisine Books
To: "sca-cooks at ansteorra.org" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
While researching a question on another list
for someone, I just came across the website of
TERESA de CASTRO MARTNEZ at
http://www.geocities.com/tdcastros/Historyserver/CV.html
She rec'd her PhD in Medieval Studies from the University of
Granada.
Her books include:
1.La Alimentacin en las Crnicas Castellanas Bajomedievales (Food
through the Medieval Castilian Chronicles). Granada. University of
Granada. 1996.
Online Version en:
http://www.geocities.co/tdcastros/Historyserver/Tes1/Home.htm
2. En la Alhambra Cristiana: bastimentos, tiendas y mercado (In the
Christian Alhambra: Foods, Stores and Food Market). Granada.
Asukara-Mediterrnea. 1999.
Online Version:
http://www.geocities.com/tdcastros/Historserver/Alh/Home3.htm
3. El abastecimiento alimentario en el reino de Granada. 1492-1510 (Food
Supplies in the Kingdom of Granada (1492-1510). Granada. CTV. 2000
Online Version:
http://www.geocities.com/tdcastros/Historyserver/Tes2/Home5.htm
Johnnae llynLewis
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 12:48:41 -0700
From: david friedman <ddfr at daviddfriedman.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Favorite period Spanish recipes?
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Jadwiga wrote:
I'm looking into cooking more Spanish foods in my period cooking
repetroire. What are people's favorite dishes from the Spanish corpus?
We haven't done a lot of Spanish, but a couple I like (recipes in the
Miscellany, translations from Spanish by Brighid) are:
Para Hazer Tortillon Relleno: To Make a Stuffed Tortillon: rich bread
with dried fruit, sugar, cinnamon, etc filling
Potage of Onions Which They Call "Cebollada": cooked onions with
almond milk, egg yolks, cheese.
Elizabeth of Dendermonde/Betty CookFrom morgana.abbey at juno.com Tue Aug 26
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 14:07:17 +0000
From: "Vincent Cuenca" <bootkiller at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Favorite Spanish period recipes
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Oh man. Lessee here
Mirrauste (braised chicken in almond milk sauce, de Nola)
Almedroch (a sauce of roast garlic, cooked egg yolks, cheese, oil and broth,
de Nola & Sent Sovi)
Sauce of Horseradish (honey, breadcrumbs, water, vinegar, and horseradish
hoo baby!, de Nola)
Esparechs ab Salsa (asparagus in sauce, Sent Sovi)
Ciurons Tendres Ab Let de Amelles (tender chickpeas with barley in almond
milk, Sent Sovi)
Composta (mixed vegetables, fruits and nuts in a sauce of wine, mustard and
spices, Libre de Totes Maneres de Confits)
Flaones (cheesecake with mint and rosewater, de Nola)
Torons de Avalanes (hazelnut black nougat, Libre de Totes Maneres de
Confits)
There's more that I haven't played with much, but these are my favorites.
Vicente
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:13:38 EDT
From: Spnknffrk at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Oranges and Cinnamon
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
lilinah at earthlink.et writes:
> I've read references to fresh sliced oranges served with powdered
> cinnamon (and sweetener?) as being "period" and perhaps Spanish, but
> i've yet to see an actual source. I don't expect a recipe, but a
> reference in a text of some sort.. Anyone know of one?
>
> Anahita
This may or may not help, but when I was in Morocco a few years ago
many of our meals were served with cinnamon powdered orange slices as a dessert.
Gonza
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 18:19:2 -0700
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Oranges and Cinnamon
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Gonza wrote:
> lilinah at earthlnk.net writes:
>> I've read references to fresh sliced oranges served with powdered
>> cinnamon (and sweetener?) as being "period" and perhaps Spanish, but
>> i've yet to see an actual source. I don't expect a recipe, but a
>> reference in a text of some ort... Anyone know of one?
>>
>> Anahita
>
> This may or may not help, but when I was in Morocco a few years ago
> many of our meals were served with cinnamon powdered orange slices as
> a dessert.
Yeah, i was in Morocco a few years ago and had the same experience.
However, someone somewhere in the SCA said they had found a textual
reference to oranges with cinnamon either in the Maghrib or
al-Andalus or Spain at some time within