clothing-books-msg - 12/14/99
Book reviews, bibliographies and pattern sources.
NOTE: See also these files: patterns-msg, merch-cloth-lst, clothing-bib, clothing-FAQ, clothing-msg, costuming-lnks, p-sumpt-laws-msg, smptuary-laws-lnks.
************************************************************************
NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
************************************************************************
From: 21464RM%MSU.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU ("Roseann.Miller")
Date: 7 May 90 18:43:18 GMT
Greetings to the Rialto, and esp. Elizabeth of Braidwood:
I have been experimenting with glovemaking, and have come up with a
few reference books you may find useful:
Collins, C. Cody. Love of a Glove. New York, Fairchild Publishing, 1949.
(has a simple history of gloves, some photos of period gloves from 1500
on, and some quickie hints on leatherworking for gloves)
Cummings, Valerie. Gloves. London, Batsford. 1982. (Good historical
info, but starts at 1600. Does very briefly cover Elizabethan gloves,
and has reproduction of mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
Johnson. Leatherwork. London, C.A. Pearson, 1949. (Leatherworking
how-to with instructions for making both lined and unlined leather gloves.
The patterns given are not too far off from the ones in Cummings)
Smith, F.R. Practical Leatherwork. New York, Pitman. 1946. (Dover took
over this one, but I don't know if it's being published anymore. Like
Johnson, a modern book but with adaptable patterns and helpful how-tos
on construction).
There are also extant period gloves to be found in books on period
embroidery and costume accessories. There are knitted gloves in pictures
and references, knitters on the Net may know of some.
<snip>
Hopefully this information will be helpful. Next project - gloves for
archery before the Pennsic!
Roxanne of Bloekmedwe : R. Miller
Barony of the NorthWoods, Midrealm : Okemos, MI
From: gwilym at micor.ocug.on.ca (Bill Sanderson)
Date: 15 Oct 90 12:51:32 GMT
Organization: M.B. Cormier INC.
Greetings again, from Gwilym
The book I referred to earlier is:
Tartans: Their Art and History, Ann Sutton & Richard Carr, Arco Publishing
inc., New York, 1984. In the bibliography the following book is mentioned:
History of Highland Dress, J. Telfer Dunbar, Oliver & Boyd and Batson,
London, 1962 and 1979. (Some editions have an excellent appendix on
"Early Scottish Highland Dyes" by Annette Kok.)
Awilda:
The lichen dyes which were and are used in the Highlands produce some
very bright colours, without mordants. The book referred to above has
a colour plate of lichen and vegetable dyed skeins, and the colours
while somewhat muted from modern chemical dyes, are quite bright.
The interesting thing about this book is that it gives the setts for
all of the registered and many of the unregistered clan
From: sharpwa!grendal!nam at nosun.west.sun.com (Nicholas Marcelja)
Date: 1 Jan 91 22:14:26 GMT
Subject: Bibliography for Corset class
Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 (facsimile) Juan de Alcega
Ruth Bean; Carlton, Bedford 1979
Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 Ruth Matilda Anderson
Hispanic Society of America; NY 1979
Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620) Janet Arnold
Drama Books; NY 1985
Cut My Cote Dorothy K. Burnham
Royal Ontario Museum; 1973
Period Costume for Stage and Screen Jean Hunnisett
Bell & Hyman Ltd.; London 1986
The Annotated Arnold R.W. Trump
Self-published; 1987
A Simple Doublet & Trunkhose R.W. Trump
Self-published; 1987
Corsets and Crinolines Nora Waugh
Batsford Books; London 1954
Cut of Women's Clothes (1600-1930) Nora Waugh
Faber & Faber, Ltd.: London 1968
Nicholas Marcelja ....sun!nosun!sharpwa!grendal!nam
Grendal
From: alg at cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)
Date: 18 Nov 91 18:27:43 GMT
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns
supplies?
Patterns and Supplies:
Fall Creek Suttlery
P.O. Box 530
Freedom, CA 95019
(408) 728-1888
- $2.00 catalog. Civil War era items and patterns.
La Pelleterie
P.O. Box 127 Highway 41
Arrow Rock, Missouri 65320
(816) 837-3261
- $3.00 catalog. Coats and cloaks, pre 1840.
NE Shutsa Traders
P.O. Box 186
Haven, Kansas 67542
(316) 465-3359
- $1.50 catalog. Cal/Mex era and horsegear.
JAS Townsend & Son
P.O. Box 415
Pierceton, IN 46562
(800) 338-1665
- Hats, cloaks, clasps.
Campell's Designs
Box 400
Gratz, PA
17030-0400
- $3.00 catalog. ($4.50 in spring 1991?) Patterns from 1776-1945
Carolina Stitches in Time
Box 10933
Winston-Salem, N.C. 27108
(919) 764-0790
- Period clothing patterns.
Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works
2218 E. 11th St.
Davenport, IA 52803-3760
(319) 322-6800
(800) 798-7979 - orders ONLY and only from the US
(319) 322-4003 - fax
- $2.00 general catalog, $5 for historical patterns catalog. This is "the
mailing list to be on". Historical patterns selected from Folkwear, midiaeval
Miscellanea, early western, victorian, hoop-gown era, Past Patterns, Attic
Copies (1920's to 40's), Prairie Clothing, amish, kilts, ethnic and dance.
Past Patterns
P.O. Box 7587
Grand Rapids, Michigan 49510
(616) 245-9456
- $3.00 catalog. Good selection of early 20th century clothing.
Mediaeval Miscellanea
7006 Raleigh Road
Annandale, VA 22003
- What else? Midieaval patterns (think Robin Hood :-).
Folkwear
The Taunton Press
63 South Main St, Box 5506
Newtown, CT 06470-5506
- Only some of the original patterns have been reprinted, but Tauton is
reprinting others regularly. Mostly Victorian and Early American patterns.
G-Street Fabrics
11854 Rockville Pike
Rockville, Md 20852
(301) 231-8998
Fair Winds Pattern Co.
819 N. June St.
Hollywood, CA 90038.
- Send $1 for small brouchure featuring six patterns. Very nice 1920's jazz
dress, Princess Bride-style wedding gown, a couple of nice casual, day-wear
1920's dresses. One ho-hum 1940's dress.
R.L.Shep.
Box 668
Mendocino, CA 95460.
- 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items. $2.50 cataog. Books, magazines and
reprints. Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of
print and hard to find books. Shep has also reprinted a number of older
clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and
Edwardian clothing.
Raiments
3345 East Miraloma
Suite 134
Anaheim CA 92806
- Patterns from 1100-1950 representing 15 pattern companies. Catalog $5
(refundable with purchase).
The Cabinet of Vintage Patterns
3522 Deerbrook
Windsor Ontario N8R 2E9
- Canadian company featuring patterns from 1905 to 1930; reproductions of
women's and children's clothing. Catalog $4. Some very nice 1910-20 tea
dresses.
Old World Enterprises
Dept 302
29036 Kepler Ct
Cold Spring Minn 56320
- 19th century patterns. $2 for catalog. Their listing says they specialize
in 19th century garments. Their patterns aren't copies of existing garments,
though, but originals based on the prevailing styles at the time. They offer
multiple graded patterns in female sizes 8-10-12-14 and male sizes 38-40-42.
Catalog $2.
Prairie Clothing Co
3732 Tanager Drive NE
Cedar Rapids IA 52402
(319) 378-0125
- $1 catalog. Lots of "Little House on the Prairie"-style clothing. More or
less current clothing styles adapted for a combination prairie/Edwardian feel
without tons of sewing details.
Remember When Collection
361 N. Ohio
Salina, KS 67401
- Send SASE for brochure. "Romantic" clothing. Current designs adapted to a
Victorian feel.
Dave Uebele ({ucbvax!ucscc |uunet | sun}!sco!daveu) has provided a fairly
complete list of sources for 1850-1900 clothing and heavy materials
construction. See his notes later in this article.
Magazines:
Vintage Fashions
Hobby House Press Inc.
900 Frederick St.
Cumberland, MD 21502
-- a bi-monthly magazine focusing on vintage apparel and instructions for
their care and repair. One-year subscription $19.95, sample copy $2.95.
Books:
Some of these books are out of print. Most of them should be in a good
university library. Some of them will be in the public library:
Iris Brooke: "A practical guide to the constuction of theatrical medieval
garments" (or something like that) (Iris Brooke has written a number of
historical costuming books).
Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. (reprint)
Burnham, Dorothy. Cut My Cote. (diagrams of actual historical (and ethnic?)
clothing in the Royal Ontario Museum. Diagrams are graphed and shown with
metric dimensions.)
Hill, Margot Hamilton & Pater A. Buchnell. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern
& Cut from 1066-1930.
Houston, Mary G. & Florence Hornblower. Medieval Costumes in England and
France.
Holkefer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes. Edson, Doris &
Lucy Barton. Period Patterns.
Fernald, Mary. "Costume Design and Making"
From an article on sewing costumes in Threads #30: Waugh, Norah: "The Cut of
Women's Clothes 1600-1930" and "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900" (Theatre
Arts Books) Concise descriptions and drawings of men's gaments from 1600 to
1900. Includes scaled patterns that can be enlarged.
Hillhouse, Marion and Evelyn A Mansfield: Dress Design: Draping and Flat
Pattern Making. Riverside Press 1948. Clear instructions on draping, with
excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and neckline styles. Perfect for
reproducing styles of the 1940's.
Covey, Liz: The Costumer's Handbook. Prentice Hall 1980. A good basic source
for the tecniques of theatrical cosumters.
Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their
Construction c. 1660-1860; Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and
their Construction c. 1860-1940. New York. Drama Book Publishers, 1972.
Contains notes on construction techniques and fabrics. Very clear drawings
show the inside of each garment.
History of Costume from Ancient Egypt to 20th Century. Blanche Payne.
c.1965. New York. Harper & Row. Includes patterns drawn to scale. One tactic
is to choose a garment in a book, make a transparency of the pattern in the
book, and go buy a pattern as similar as possible. Then project the
transparency on the wall and use it to adjust the bought pattern to the style
of the garment in the book.
Dover has a Pictorial Archive catalog and a Needlework catalog. The
Needlework catalog includes several books that discuss Renaissance embroidery.
The Pictorial Archive catalog has a FEW books that cover costumes. Typically
these are books that contain pictures of people in costume. There are few
(none?) books with actual costumes drafted.
Dover Publications
31 East 2nd St
Mineola, NY 11501.
The whole costumer's catalog is probably available from:
GCFCG (Greater Columbia Fantasy Costumers guild).
P.O. Box 194
Mt. Airy, Md 21771
Subject: book review: textiles and clothing
Date: 1 Jun 92
From: SHERMAN%TRLN.DECnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.EDU ("Dennis R. Sherman")
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Organization: The Internet
Greetings to the Rialto from Robyyan.
My copy of _Textiles and Clothing_, the latest in the Museum of London
series about medieval finds arrived this weekend. For those that
don't know, this is a series of books on recoveries from archeological
sites in London. The first three books in the series are _Knives and
Scabbards_, _Shoes and Pattens_, and _Dress Accessories_. The titles
are indicative of the subject matter of each :-)
These books are terrific research and reconstruction material. They
include detailed descriptions, drawings, and photographs of recovered
articles, in many cases with patterns from articles disassembled for
preservation. And they have *large* bibliographies.
This particular volume, _Textiles and Clothing_, contains information
of interest to anyone working with cloth, although I think it will be
of most use to weavers. There are no complete garments included,
although there are many fragments (i.e. pieces of a sleeve, a foot
from hose, a couple of hoods, etc.) I don't think there are sufficient
clothing fragments to base a complete set of garb on the information
here, but the information on details (how to sew buttonholes or
eyelets, making cloth buttons, how hems and edges are turned or bound)
is quite valuable.
Selections from the table of contents: (typos mine, multiple --
indicate places where I left things out)
Techniques used in textile production
wool-hair-linen-wilk-dyes-looms
Wool textiles
state of preservation-the weaves of the cloths-three-shed
twills---tabby weaves--tapestry-knitting-felt
Goathair textiles
Linen textiles
self-patterened weaves -- finishing
Silk textiles
---sources of supply---tabby woven---weft-patterened---satin
damask
Mixed cloths
Narrow wares
tablet woven braids--fingerloop braids-plaited braids--
-garters---hairnets
Sewing techniques and tailoring
sewing threads-sewing techniques-bindings and facings-
fastening methods---dagges
I highly recommend this series for people interested in historical
accuracy in their reconstructions.
All are available from Her Majesties Stationary Office (HMSO):
HMSO Publications Centre
PO Box 276, London, SW8 5DT
071-873-9090 (remember to dial for England first)
They take Visa and MasterCard. Prices on the books are different, and
vary with the exchange rate. _Textiles and Clothing_ cost me just
under $55, including surface mail shipping.
Bibliographic data (try to get your local library to order these
books! :-) --
Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland; _Medieval
finds from excavations in London:4, Textiles and Clothing
c.1150-c.1450_; London: HMSO, 1992. ISBN 0 11 290445 9
*--------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Robyyan Torr d'Elandris Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia *
*--------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network *
* dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill *
*--------------------------------------------------------------------*
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: sherman at trln.lib.unc.edu (dennis r. sherman)
Subject: Re: Buttons
Organization: Triangle Research Libraries Network
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1993 22:22:09 GMT
Philippa d'Ecosse writes:
>I'm not all that good at tying bows with my teeth, I wondered if
>some sort of button might be acceptably period.
Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, _Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450,
Medieval Finds from Excavations in London vol.3_, London: HMSO, 1991.
ISBN 0 11 29044 0
Find this book!!! Available from HMSO bookshops, but you have to call
London to order, and its the most expensive paperback book I've ever
bought. If you want to call -- country code + 071-873-9090, I think
its a 24 hour order line.
Note from the title that this book deals with London in a restricted