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clothing-books-msg - 12/14/99

 

Book reviews, bibliographies and pattern sources.

 

NOTE: See also these files: patterns-msg, merch-cloth-lst, clothing-bib,  clothing-FAQ, clothing-msg, costuming-lnks, p-sumpt-laws-msg, smptuary-laws-lnks.

 

************************************************************************

NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

From: 21464RM%MSU.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU ("Roseann.Miller")

Date: 7 May 90 18:43:18 GMT

 

Greetings to the Rialto, and esp. Elizabeth of Braidwood:

 

I have been experimenting with glovemaking, and have come up with a

few reference books you may find useful:

 

Collins, C. Cody.  Love of a Glove. New York, Fairchild Publishing, 1949.

  (has a simple history of gloves, some photos of period gloves from 1500

   on, and some quickie hints on leatherworking for gloves)

Cummings, Valerie.  Gloves.  London, Batsford. 1982. (Good historical

  info, but starts at 1600.  Does very briefly cover Elizabethan gloves,

  and has reproduction of mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)

Johnson.  Leatherwork.  London, C.A. Pearson, 1949. (Leatherworking

  how-to with instructions for making both lined and unlined leather gloves.

  The patterns given are not too far off from the ones in Cummings)

Smith, F.R.  Practical Leatherwork.  New York, Pitman. 1946.  (Dover took

  over this one, but I don't know if it's being published anymore.  Like

  Johnson, a modern book but with adaptable patterns and helpful how-tos

  on construction).

 

There are also extant period gloves to be found in books on period

embroidery and costume accessories.  There are knitted gloves in pictures

and references, knitters on the Net may know of some.

 

<snip>

 

Hopefully this information will be helpful.  Next project - gloves for

archery before the Pennsic!

 

     Roxanne of Bloekmedwe                :   R. Miller

     Barony of the NorthWoods, Midrealm   :   Okemos, MI

 

 

From: gwilym at micor.ocug.on.ca (Bill Sanderson)

Date: 15 Oct 90 12:51:32 GMT

Organization: M.B. Cormier INC.

 

Greetings again, from Gwilym

 

The book I referred to earlier is:

 

Tartans: Their Art and History, Ann Sutton & Richard Carr, Arco Publishing

inc., New York, 1984.  In the bibliography the following book is mentioned:

 

History of Highland Dress, J. Telfer Dunbar, Oliver & Boyd and Batson,

London, 1962 and 1979. (Some editions have an excellent appendix on

"Early Scottish Highland Dyes" by Annette Kok.)

 

Awilda:

 

The lichen dyes which were and are used in the Highlands produce some

very bright colours, without mordants. The book referred to above has

a colour plate of lichen and vegetable dyed skeins, and the colours

while somewhat muted from modern chemical dyes, are quite bright.

 

The interesting thing about this book is that it gives the setts for

all of the registered and many of the unregistered clan

 

 

From: sharpwa!grendal!nam at nosun.west.sun.com (Nicholas Marcelja)

Date: 1 Jan 91 22:14:26 GMT

Subject: Bibliography for Corset class

 

Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 (facsimile)  Juan de Alcega

Ruth Bean; Carlton, Bedford  1979

 

Hispanic Costume 1480-1530  Ruth Matilda Anderson

Hispanic Society of America; NY  1979

 

Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620)  Janet Arnold

Drama Books; NY  1985

 

Cut My Cote  Dorothy K. Burnham

Royal Ontario Museum; 1973

 

Period Costume for Stage and Screen  Jean Hunnisett

Bell & Hyman Ltd.; London  1986

 

The Annotated Arnold  R.W. Trump

Self-published; 1987

 

A Simple Doublet & Trunkhose  R.W. Trump

Self-published; 1987

 

Corsets and Crinolines  Nora Waugh

Batsford Books; London  1954

 

Cut of Women's Clothes (1600-1930)  Nora Waugh

Faber & Faber, Ltd.: London  1968

 

Nicholas Marcelja ....sun!nosun!sharpwa!grendal!nam

 

Grendal

 

 

From: alg at cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)

Date: 18 Nov 91 18:27:43 GMT

Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853

 

2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns

supplies?

 

Patterns and Supplies:

 

Fall Creek Suttlery

P.O. Box 530

Freedom, CA 95019

(408) 728-1888

- $2.00 catalog.  Civil War era items and patterns.

 

La Pelleterie

P.O. Box 127 Highway 41

Arrow Rock, Missouri 65320

(816) 837-3261

- $3.00 catalog.  Coats and cloaks, pre 1840.

 

NE Shutsa Traders

P.O. Box 186

Haven, Kansas 67542

(316) 465-3359

- $1.50 catalog.  Cal/Mex era and horsegear.

 

JAS Townsend & Son

P.O. Box 415

Pierceton, IN 46562

(800) 338-1665

- Hats, cloaks, clasps.

 

Campell's Designs

Box 400

Gratz, PA

17030-0400

- $3.00 catalog. ($4.50 in spring 1991?)  Patterns from 1776-1945

 

Carolina Stitches in Time

Box 10933

Winston-Salem, N.C. 27108

(919) 764-0790

- Period clothing patterns.

 

Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works

2218 E. 11th St.

Davenport, IA 52803-3760

(319) 322-6800

(800) 798-7979 - orders ONLY and only from the US

(319) 322-4003 - fax

- $2.00 general catalog, $5 for historical patterns catalog.  This is "the

mailing list to be on".  Historical patterns selected from Folkwear, midiaeval

Miscellanea, early western, victorian, hoop-gown era, Past Patterns, Attic

Copies (1920's to 40's), Prairie Clothing, amish, kilts, ethnic and dance.

 

Past Patterns

P.O. Box 7587

Grand Rapids, Michigan 49510

(616) 245-9456

- $3.00 catalog.  Good selection of early 20th century clothing.

 

Mediaeval Miscellanea

7006 Raleigh Road

Annandale, VA 22003

- What else?  Midieaval patterns (think Robin Hood :-).

 

 

Folkwear

The Taunton Press

63 South Main St, Box 5506

Newtown, CT 06470-5506

- Only some of the original patterns have been reprinted, but Tauton is

reprinting others regularly.  Mostly Victorian and Early American patterns.

 

G-Street Fabrics

11854 Rockville Pike

Rockville, Md 20852

(301) 231-8998

 

Fair Winds Pattern Co.

819 N. June St.  

Hollywood, CA 90038.

- Send $1 for small brouchure featuring six patterns. Very nice 1920's jazz

dress, Princess Bride-style wedding gown, a couple of nice casual, day-wear

1920's dresses.  One ho-hum 1940's dress.

 

R.L.Shep.

Box 668

Mendocino, CA 95460.

- 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items.  $2.50 cataog.  Books, magazines and

reprints.  Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of

print and hard to find books.  Shep has also reprinted a number of older

clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and

Edwardian clothing.

 

Raiments

3345 East Miraloma

Suite 134

Anaheim CA 92806

- Patterns from 1100-1950 representing 15 pattern companies.  Catalog $5

(refundable with purchase).

 

The Cabinet of Vintage Patterns

3522 Deerbrook

Windsor Ontario N8R 2E9

- Canadian company featuring patterns from 1905 to 1930; reproductions of

women's and children's clothing.  Catalog $4.  Some very nice 1910-20 tea

dresses.

 

Old World Enterprises

Dept 302

29036 Kepler Ct

Cold Spring Minn 56320

- 19th century patterns.  $2 for catalog.  Their listing says they specialize

in 19th century garments.  Their patterns aren't copies of existing garments,

though, but originals based on the prevailing styles at the time.  They offer

multiple graded patterns in female sizes 8-10-12-14 and male sizes 38-40-42.

Catalog $2.

 

 

Prairie Clothing Co

3732 Tanager Drive NE

Cedar Rapids IA 52402

(319) 378-0125

- $1 catalog.  Lots of "Little House on the Prairie"-style clothing.  More or

less current clothing styles adapted for a combination prairie/Edwardian feel

without tons of sewing details.

 

Remember When Collection

361 N. Ohio

Salina, KS  67401

- Send SASE for brochure.  "Romantic" clothing. Current designs adapted to a

Victorian feel.

 

Dave Uebele ({ucbvax!ucscc |uunet | sun}!sco!daveu) has provided a fairly

complete list of sources for 1850-1900 clothing and heavy materials

construction.  See his notes later in this article.

 

 

Magazines:

 

Vintage Fashions

Hobby House Press Inc.

900 Frederick St.

Cumberland, MD  21502

-- a bi-monthly magazine focusing on vintage apparel and instructions for

their care and repair.  One-year subscription $19.95, sample copy $2.95.

 

 

Books:

 

Some of these books are out of print. Most of them should be in a good

university library. Some of them will be in the public library:

 

Iris Brooke: "A practical guide to the constuction of theatrical medieval

garments" (or something like that) (Iris Brooke has written a number of

historical costuming books).

 

Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. (reprint)

 

Burnham, Dorothy.  Cut My Cote. (diagrams of actual historical (and ethnic?)

clothing in the Royal Ontario Museum.  Diagrams are graphed and shown with

metric dimensions.)

 

Hill, Margot Hamilton & Pater A. Buchnell.  The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern

& Cut from 1066-1930.

 

Houston, Mary G. & Florence Hornblower.  Medieval Costumes in England and

France.

 

Holkefer, Katherine Strand.  Patterns for Theatrical Costumes.  Edson, Doris &

Lucy Barton.  Period Patterns.

 

Fernald, Mary.  "Costume Design and Making"

 

From an article on sewing costumes in Threads #30: Waugh, Norah: "The Cut of

Women's Clothes 1600-1930" and "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900" (Theatre

Arts Books) Concise descriptions and drawings of men's gaments from 1600 to

1900. Includes scaled patterns that can be enlarged.

 

Hillhouse, Marion and Evelyn A Mansfield: Dress Design: Draping and Flat

Pattern Making.  Riverside Press 1948. Clear instructions on draping, with

excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and neckline styles.  Perfect for

reproducing styles of the 1940's.

 

Covey, Liz: The Costumer's Handbook.  Prentice Hall 1980. A good basic source

for the tecniques of theatrical cosumters.

 

Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their

Construction c. 1660-1860; Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and

their Construction c. 1860-1940.  New York. Drama Book Publishers, 1972.

Contains notes on construction techniques and fabrics. Very clear drawings

show the inside of each garment.

 

History of Costume from Ancient Egypt to 20th Century.  Blanche Payne.

c.1965.  New York. Harper & Row. Includes patterns drawn to scale.  One tactic

is to choose a garment in a book, make a transparency of the pattern in the

book, and go buy a pattern as similar as possible.  Then project the

transparency on the wall and use it to adjust the bought pattern to the style

of the garment in the book.

 

Dover has a Pictorial Archive catalog and a Needlework catalog.  The

Needlework catalog includes several books that discuss Renaissance embroidery.

The Pictorial Archive catalog has a FEW books that cover costumes.  Typically

these are books that contain pictures of people in costume.  There are few

(none?)  books with actual costumes drafted.

 

Dover Publications

31 East 2nd St

Mineola, NY 11501.

 

The whole costumer's catalog is probably available from:     

GCFCG (Greater Columbia Fantasy Costumers guild).

P.O. Box 194

Mt. Airy, Md 21771

 

 

Subject: book review: textiles and clothing

Date: 1 Jun 92

From: SHERMAN%TRLN.DECnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.EDU ("Dennis R. Sherman")

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Organization: The Internet

 

Greetings to the Rialto from Robyyan.

 

My copy of _Textiles and Clothing_, the latest in the Museum of London

series about medieval finds arrived this weekend.  For those that

don't know, this is a series of books on recoveries from archeological

sites in London.  The first three books in the series are _Knives and

Scabbards_, _Shoes and Pattens_, and _Dress Accessories_. The titles

are indicative of the subject matter of each :-)

 

These books are terrific research and reconstruction material.  They

include detailed descriptions, drawings, and photographs of recovered

articles, in many cases with patterns from articles disassembled for

preservation.  And they have *large* bibliographies.

 

This particular volume, _Textiles and Clothing_, contains information

of interest to anyone working with cloth, although I think it will be

of most use to weavers.  There are no complete garments included,

although there are many fragments (i.e. pieces of a sleeve, a foot

from hose, a couple of hoods, etc.)  I don't think there are sufficient

clothing fragments to base a complete set of garb on the information

here, but the information on details (how to sew buttonholes or

eyelets, making cloth buttons, how hems and edges are turned or bound)

is quite valuable.

 

Selections from the table of contents:  (typos mine, multiple --

indicate places where I left things out)

 

Techniques used in textile production

        wool-hair-linen-wilk-dyes-looms

Wool textiles

        state of preservation-the weaves of the cloths-three-shed

        twills---tabby weaves--tapestry-knitting-felt

Goathair textiles

Linen textiles

        self-patterened weaves -- finishing

Silk textiles

        ---sources of supply---tabby woven---weft-patterened---satin

        damask

Mixed cloths

Narrow wares

        tablet woven braids--fingerloop braids-plaited braids--

        -garters---hairnets

Sewing techniques and tailoring

        sewing threads-sewing techniques-bindings and facings-

        fastening methods---dagges

 

I highly recommend this series for people interested in historical

accuracy in their reconstructions.

 

All are available from Her Majesties Stationary Office (HMSO):

 

        HMSO Publications Centre

        PO Box 276, London, SW8 5DT

        071-873-9090 (remember to dial for England first)

 

They take Visa and MasterCard.  Prices on the books are different, and

vary with the exchange rate.  _Textiles and Clothing_ cost me just

under $55, including surface mail shipping.

 

Bibliographic data (try to get your local library to order these

books! :-) --

 

Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland; _Medieval

finds from excavations in London:4, Textiles and Clothing

c.1150-c.1450_; London: HMSO, 1992.  ISBN 0 11 290445 9

 

*--------------------------------------------------------------------*

* Robyyan Torr d'Elandris  Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia *

*--------------------------------------------------------------------*

* Dennis R. Sherman                Triangle Research Libraries Network *

* dennis_sherman at unc.edu       Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill *

*--------------------------------------------------------------------*

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: sherman at trln.lib.unc.edu (dennis r. sherman)

Subject: Re: Buttons

Organization: Triangle Research Libraries Network

Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1993 22:22:09 GMT

 

Philippa d'Ecosse writes:

>I'm not all that good at tying bows with my teeth, I wondered if

>some sort of button might be acceptably period.

 

Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, _Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450,

Medieval Finds from Excavations in London vol.3_, London: HMSO, 1991.  

ISBN 0 11 29044 0

 

Find this book!!!  Available from HMSO bookshops, but you have to call

London to order, and its the most expensive paperback book I've ever

bought.  If you want to call -- country code + 071-873-9090, I think

its a 24 hour order line.

 

Note from the title that this book deals with London in a restricted

range of years -- that doesn't mean other times and places didn't use

similar stuff, but you can't prove it from this source.

 

Brief notes from chapter on buttons:

- buttons probably came into common use in England and Europe in the

early 13th century

- excavated buttons generally fall in three categories:

        *cast, usually solid lead/tin with integral shanks, or bronze

        with embedded wire shanks

        *composite sheeting, made of two stamped pieces of copper alloy

        soldered together and wire shank soldered in place

        *cloth, bunch of scrap cloth sewn into ball

- buttons vary in size from 8mm to 15.5mm diameter for the metal,

4mm-6mm for round cloth, 14mm-35mm for loose, flat cloth, which may

have had a stiffener inside

 

--

  Robyyan Torr d'Elandris  Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia

               --------------------------------------

  Dennis R. Sherman                Triangle Research Libraries Network

  dennis_sherman at unc.edu       Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill

 

 

From: nsmca at aurora.alaska.edu

Newsgroups: soc.culture.celtic,rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Instructions for ancient kilt - feileadh mor

Date: 21 Jul 93 08:11:13 GMT

Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks

 

In article <1993Jul21.022229.3213 at cujo.curtin.edu.au>, Andy Weir <NWEIRANDY at cc.curtin.edu.au> writes:

> In article <1992Aug12.223147.18550 at access.usask.ca> Hugh

> Goldie, goldie at herald.usask.ca writes:

>>Please send instructions for folding and wearing the Great

> Scottish Kilt or

>>feileadh-mor.  As I understand it, this was a large piece of

> tartan or

>>other cloth, folded in pleats and worn about the body, with

> only a belt used

>

> I saw a segment on this in a documentary about a year ago or

> so ago.  Sorry I can't remember what it was called or whether

> it was just a 5-10 minute filler between shows. Someone has

> already described how it is put on which is exactly how I

> remember it from the TV.  It could have been the fairly recent

> documentary on Scottish migration shown in OZ in the past 12

> months which in the main covered migration to the USA.

>

> I hope someone else may have seen it and can put you on to it.

>

> Andy  Weir/Wier/Weer/Vere . . . . .

 

Might check out "The Clans of the Scottish Highlands" atleast for examples..

Author is RR. McIan, forward by Antonia Fraser....

The original book was doen c.1845/47..

ISBN: 0 907486 38 X

From Webb&Bower (Publications) Ltd.

Or Chancellor Press, 49 Grosvenor Stree, London W1.

 

Not sure of any other books right now, but my library is in storage for now..

Just to large for my apartment.

 

======

Ghost Wheel - NSMCA at acad3.alaska.edu

 

 

From: g_duperault at venus.twu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: costume biblio--LONG!

Date: 29 Nov 93 17:11:33 +600

Organization: Texas Woman's University

 

        Here it is kiddies!  Have fun!

 

                              Avwye

______________________________________________________________________________

 

       _A Bibliography of Costume Sourcebooks_

 

        The following list has been compiled with the intention of providing a

list of recently published, and therefore reasonably available , sources for

costume and clothing reconstruction.  Titles listed with both ISBN and price

can be assumed to be in print and available in the US at this time.

        Additions, changes, etc. should be sent to G_Duperault at venus.twu.edu

        Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list in its

complete and entire form, which must include this header.

        No warranty expressed or implied. Your mileage may vary.

        (c) 1993 D.M.Duperault

 

BOOKS:

 

Ancient Indian Costume,  Rosten Alkazi.  New Delhi: Art Heritage, 1983.  200p.

A history of the costume of India, from earliest civilization to 1200.

Illustrated, with maps, index and bibliography.

 

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.  Janet Arnold. Leeds, England: Maney,

1988.  392p.  Illustrated, with bibliography and index. Inventory of a wardr

obe taken in 1600.  ISBN 0901286206.

 

A Handbook of Costume.  Janet Arnold.  London: Macmilan, 1973.  336p.

Illustrated, with bibliography. ISBN 0333124812.

 

Patterns of Fashion; Englishwomen's dresses and their construction.  Janet

Arnold.  London: Macmillan, 1990.  2 volumes, ill. $30.00.  ISBN 0896760278

 

Patterns of Fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women,

c.1560-1620.  Janet Arnold.  London: Macmillan; New York: Drama Book, 1985.

128p. Illustrated, with bibliography.  The history of dressmaking and

tailoring of men's clothing.  ISBN 089676039.

 

Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I.  Jane Ashford.  New York: Holmes and Meier,

1988. 159p. ISBN 0841911908.

 

Folk Jewelery of the World.  Ger Daniels.  Rizzoli.  200p. Heavily illustrated

survey of ornaments and traditional dress. $60.00.

 

Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making medieval costumes,  Lynn Edelman

Schnurnberger.  New York: Harper and Row, 1978.  124p. An illustrated history

of costume, aimed at the juvenile audience.  $6.95.  ISBN 0060252413.

 

Dress Accessories, c1150-c1450.  Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard.  London:

HMSO, 1991.  421p. Illustrated.  Medieval finds from excavations in London.

ISBN 0112904440.

 

Dress and Undress: a history of women's underwear. Elizabeth Ewing.  New York:

Drama Book Specialists, c1978.  191p.: ill. Index.  

 

Everyday Dress, 1650-1900: a popular survey,  Elizabeth Ewing.  Chelsea House

Publishers, 1989.  Illustrated. $19.95. ISBN 1555467504

 

History of Children's Costume,  Elizabeth Ewing.  New York: Scribner, 1977.

  191p.  Illustrated, with colour plates, index.

 

The Tie: trends and traditions.  Sarah Gibbings. Barron's.  160p. An

illustrated history of the tie and it's precursors, from the 1600's to today.

  $ 21.95.

 

The Hat: Trends and traditions.  Madeline Ginsburg. Hauppage, NY: Barron's,

1990.  160p: ill.

 

After a fashion: How to reproduce, restore, and wear vintage styles.  Francis

Grimble.  San Francisco: Lavolta Press, 1993.  352p. Line drawings.  $35.00

ISBN 0963651706 Covers clothing styles from medieval to modern.

 

Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: a comparitive study of costume

and iron age textiles.  Margarethe Hald.  Copenhagen: National Museum of

Denmark, 1980.  398p.  Illustrated, with maps.  Covers the textiles and

costumes of prehistoric Denmark.

 

Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500.  Jacqueline Herald. London: Bell and

Hyman; Atlantic Highlands, N., 1981.  256p. An illustrated history of costume

in art during the Italian Renaissance.

 

Costume Construction.  Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliifs,NJ:

Prentice Hall, 1989.  232p.  Index and bibliography. Costuming and costume

design.  ISBN 0131812076.  $29.00.

 

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: garments, trims, and accessories from

ancient Egypt to 1915.  Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:

Prentice-Hall, c1993.  352p: ill.  Index and bibliography.  $29.95  ISBN

0136542603  paperbound.

 

Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800.  Jean Hunnisett. London: Bell & Hyman,

1986.

 

The Costume Designers Handbook: a complete guide for the amateur and profess

ional costume designers.  Rosemary Ingham.  2nd ed. Portsmouth, NH:

Heinemann, 1992.  286p.

 

Costumers Handbook.  Rosemary Ingham and Elizabeth Covey. Englewood Cliffs,

NJ: Prentice Hall, 1980.

 

Put Your Foot Down: a treatise on the history of shoes. Florence E. Ledger.

Meksham, Wiltshire, U.K.: C. Venton, 1985. 214p.  An illustrated history of

shoes.  ISBN 0854751114.

 

900 Years of English Costume: from 11th to 20th century, Nancy Margetts.  New

York: Crescent Books, 1987.  200p. Includes bibliography and index.  ISBN

051761670X.

 

The Duchess of Devonshire's Ball.  Sophia Murphy.  London: Sidgwick and Jacson,

1984.  176p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. 18th century costume

balls and parties.  ISBN 0283989882.

 

Historical Costumes of Turkish Women.  Nisantasi, Istanbul: Middle East Video

Corp., 1986.  175p. Mostly colour illustrations, some maps, bibliography.

  $100.

 

Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: a study of the years 1340-65.  Stella

Mary Newton.  Woodbridge: Boydell Press;  Totowa, NJ: Rowman and Littlefield,

1980. 157p. Index and bibliography.  ISBN 0847669394.

 

Costume: a general bibliography.  Anthony Pegaret and Janet Arnold.  2nd ed.

  London: Costume Society, Department of Textiles, Victoria and Albert Museum,

1974.  42p. ISBN 090340706X.

 

The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes.  Albert Racinet. New York, NY: Facts

on File, 1988.  320p. lithographic illus.; translation and abridgement of Le

Costume Historique. Index.  $45.00  

 

Period Style for the Theatre.  Douglas A. Russell.  2nd ed.  Boston: Allyn and

Bacon, 1987.  375p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index.  History of

Western costume and it's applications in theatre and acting.  ISBN 0205104886.

 

Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500.  Margaret Scott.  London: Mills and Boon,

Atlantic Highlands, N., 1980. 256p. An illustrated history of European costume

in the 15th century.

 

History of Men's Costume,  Marion Sichel.  Chelsea House Publishers, 1989.

$14.95.  ISBN 1555467555.

 

History of Women's Costume,  Marion Sichel.  Chelsea House Publishers, 1989.

  $14.95  ISBN 1555467563.

 

Costume Reference: Roman Britain and the Middle Ages. Marion Sichel.  London:

Batsford, 1977.

 

Costume Reference: Tudors and Elizabethans.  Marion Sichel.  London: Batsford,

1977.

 

Costume Reference: Jacobean, Stuart and Restoration. Marion Sichel.  London:

Batsford. 1977.

 

Ancient Costumes of England, from druids to Tudors, Charles Hamilton Smith.

  New York: Arch Cape Press, 1989.  Drawings. ISBN 0517678829.

 

Textiles From Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300.  Thelma K. Thomas.  Pittsburg, PA:

Carnegie Museum of Natural History, 1990.  66p. Illustrated, with bibliography

Covers the costumes and textiles of medieval egypt.  ISBN 0911239200.

 

A Survey of Historic Costume.  Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank.  New York:

Fairchild Publications, 1989.  361p. : ill. Bibliography. ISBN 0870056328

 

Costume Patterns and Designs.  Max Tilke.  New York: Rizzoli, 1990.  49p. 128

leaves of plates.  Translation of Kostumschnitte und Gewandformen.  $35.00

  ISBN 084781209X

 

L'Encyclopedie de Costume.  Max Tilke.  New York, NY: French and European

Publications, Inc., 1973.  $250.00  ISBN 0828862877

 

Elizabethan Costuming.  Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. Oakland, CA: Other

Times Publications, 1991.  $15.00  ISBN 0963022008

 

European Costume: 4000 years of fashion.  Doreen Yarwood. New York: Bonanza

Books, Crown Publishers, 1982. 312p. An illustrated history of European

costume. With index and bibliography.

 

Costume of the Western World: a pictoral guide and glossary.  Doreen Yarwood.

  New York: St. Martins Press, 1980.  192p: ill. Bibliography.

 

Of His Array Telle I No Longer Tale: aspects of costume, arms, and armour in

Western Europe, 1200-1400.  H.M. Zijlstra-Zweens. Amsterdam: Rodopi, 1988.

Illustrated, with index and bibliography.  Text in English, Dutch and German.

Covers medieval clothing, social life, and customs between 500 and 1500.

ISBN 9051830254.

 

 

OTHER MEDIA:

 

National Types and Costumes: with explanatory text. [Microfilm.]  London: F.

Bruckman.  32p. Illustrated history of costume photography in the 1880's.

 

Visual Catalogue of Fashion and Costume in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

[Microform]  Photos by Philip Metcalf.  Haslemere, Surrey: Emmett Microform,

1981.  57 microfiches.  Index.  Pictoral history of items in the Victoria and

Albert collection, with historical and informational notes.  #1 in the

Fashion, Costume, and Uniform series.

 

Costume: The journal of the Costume Society.  Costume Society, Victoria and

Albert Museum.  Published annually.

 

Bibliography of Sourcebooks

for Historical Costume Construction

 

 

From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book

Date: 11 Jan 94 15:30:14

Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK.

 

I just got a book that might interest someone else out there:

 

Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4

Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450

Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland

Published HMSO 1992

copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London

ISBN 0 11 290445 9

 

Price 29.95 pounds sterling

 

Most of the stuff is fourteenth century, though as the books title

says the range is from c.1150-c.1450

 

The book begins with details of sources and where the textiles were

found, then there is a short chapter on techniques used in textile

production. This has some very dodgy looking drawings of looms, there

seems to be no wat to move the beaters on them, either They've missed

something or medieval looms were wierder than I thought.

 

Then the book goes into details on weaves and structures with chapters

on wool, goathair, linen, silk and mixed cloths.

The wool chapter even includes a couple of pages on knitting and one

on felt.

The chapter on silk is a masterpiece of deduction, by hunting around

ancient silks the authors have reproduced patterns of whole pieces of

cloth from tiny scraps and offcuts.

 

A whole chapter is devoted to narrow wares including tablet woven

braids, fingerloop braids, plaited braids, garters and hairnets.

This was my favourite, as I'm a tablet weaving freak, there was a good

description of a method of sewing braid onto edges by simultaneously

weaving and sewing, using the weft of the braid as the sewing thread.

I'm dying to find something to try this out on.

 

There is also a chapter on sewing with lots of detail on stuff like how

seams were sewn, how cloth buttons were made, how the buttonholes were

stitched, how to edge necks you name it, it's there. Anyone like me

who spends hours fiddling about with fiddle about with period details

that hardly anyone appreciates will love this section.

 

There is not so much on patterns of clothing as mostly the stuff found

was very fragmentary, but there are pictures of hoods and hose that

are complete enough to work out a pattern from. There is also a well

preserved buttoned sleeve which might interest someone with a

masochistic inclination to make buttonholes by the dozen!

 

The illustrations are great with lots of colour plates and close ups,

so you can see every detail of the textiles. The text puts everything

into context and cites just about every other relevant find there is.

 

This is definately not a beginners book, and it's quite expensive, but

if you're looking for something to add to a 14th century English

costume and you've run out of sources, this is the book for you.

 

I don't even do 14th century stuff and I got it anyway, I can never

resist a good book on textiles, maybe that's why I never have enough

money left over to buy the bookshelves I need to put them all on!

 

Jennifer

Vanaheim Vikings

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: proberts at castle.ed.ac.uk (P Roberts)

Subject: Re: 14th C textiles & clothing book

Organization: Edinburgh University

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 18:42:57 GMT

 

Jennifer mentioned a book she has just bought:

 

> Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4

> Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450

> Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland

> Published HMSO 1992

> copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London

> ISBN 0 11 290445 9

> Price 29.95 pounds sterling

 

  There are three other books in this set (hence the "4" in the title):

Knives and Scabbards; Shoes and Patterns; and (I think) Dress

Accessories.  They are all published by HMSO but I'm afraid I don't have

further details to hand.  Speaking from memory, I think the Textiles and

Clothing volume is the most expensive of the set.

 

Edward

 

 

From: huff at bronze.lcs.mit.EDU (Robert Huff)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book

Date: 13 Jan 1994 22:42:48 -0500

Organization: The Internet

 

Ave!

        When this series was discussed many months ago, someone claimed

that a Canadian entity - I believe it was the Univ. of Toronto Press -

had either distribution rights for North America, or reprint rights.

 

                                      Diego Mundoz

                                             Carolingia

 

 

From: sclark at epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Clark)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Need references for early 14c man's clothing.

Date: 14 Feb 1994 21:45:11 GMT

Organization: EPAS Computing Facility, University of Toronto

 

Greetings....

                                                                                                    I highly recommend _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_

by Stella Mary Newton (Woodbrige-Boydell, Rowman, Little field, 1980,

ISBN 0-8476-6939-4).  This is mostly late 14th century, but it is

excellent.  You're not going to get much on hoppelandes here, but

it will give you an overview of the late 14th century innovations.

                                                                                                    Surviving patterns from this period are nonexistant.  There

are a few surviving pieces here and there, but they are rare.  If

you want a pre-drafted pattern, the Period Patterns for cotehardies and

houppelandes aren't too bad.

 

Cheers--

Nicolaa/Susan

Canton of Eoforwic

sclark at epas.utoronto.ca

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Subject: New Costume references

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington IN

Date: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 10:05:07 GMT

 

Spreading word about sources and reference books is my mission in

the SCA, so here are some I've come across recently:

 

Hansen, Henny Harald.  Mongol Costumes. Thames and Hudson. London

and NYC:1993.

 

ISBN:0500015856

 

If you're familiar with the edition printed in 1950 you'll

probably want to look this one up anyway.  The book has been

entirely re-organized and the original pictures have been

supplemented  by large full color photographs of the garments--

some of them on mannequins.  The latter give you a good feel for

the hang of the clothing, and for the way the various pieces are

put together.

 

If you aren't familiar with it this is a catalog of garments

dating from the first third of the 20th century.  It includes

diagrams and detail sketches, as well as general commentary.

 

For documentation puropses this book is best used as cross-

reference to SCA period sources--such few that exist. However, in

the absence of those sources, this book is very valuable.

 

 

Weidtz, Christoph.  Authentic Everyday Dress of the Rennaissance:

All 154 Plates from the "Trachtenbuch".  Dover. New York:1994.

 

Trachtenbuch was orginally printed about 1530.  It's a collection

of sketches from the artists sojourn in Spain (and some from side-

excursions elsewhere in Europe.)  Interpretation isn't always easy

for the seamstress, but there are costumes from many walks of

life--including peasant, middle-class and some occupational garb.

 

It's a good primary source.

 

Dunlevy, Mairead.  Dress in Ireland.  Holmes and Meier. New

York:1989.

 

ISBN: 0-8419-1269-8

 

Good coverage of period material.  Chapters on Medieval and 16th

century differeintiates between the fashions of the English in

Ireland and the Irish themselves, and between wealthy and poor.

Good reproductions of previously published sources and some new

matierial as well.

 

Campbell, Louise.  Renaissance Portraits:European Portrait Paining

in the 14th, 15th and 16th Century.  Yale University.  New Haven

and London:1990.

 

ISBN 0-300-04675

 

Excellent source for reproductions.  Includes many old friends and

many rarely reproduced ones.  Text is fascinating--Campbell is

attempting to dispell the modern predjudice against portraiture as

an art form, by showing the methods the have used to shape the

viewer's impression of the sitter.

 

(BTW this book was listed as still being in print as of June

'94....)

Comments welcomed....

 

Mistress Audelindis de Rheims, OL OW

 

 

From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Janet Arnold

Date: 8 Dec 1994 07:19:46 GMT

Organization: The Stuffed Animal Trauma Team  (We're Trained Professionals)

 

  If you're going to be using Arnold's book to create garb, I *highly*

  recommend locating a copy of "The Annotated Arnold" as well.  It deals

  (very well) with a number of (very stupid) errors in Ms Arnold's"re-

  constructions".

 

  Last I checked, it was available from a company called "Raiments" who

  advertises on occasion in TI.

--

------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu -------------------------

                      42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101

 

 

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Costuming

Date: 9 Dec 1994 05:32:20 GMT

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

 

There are two good books on the period, neither of them include much in the

way of existing examples, since there are none, but they do use primary

sources:

 

Herald, Jacqueline, Rennaisance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500. Humanities Press,

1981.  This book is out of print.

 

Birbari, Elizabeth.  Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. Murray, 1975.

Also oop.

 

Also try the following books in Italian (the pictures are good.)

 

Levi-Pisetsky, Rosa.  Storia del Costume in Italia.  Vol. 2 and 3.  I

Instituto Editoriale Italiano, 1965-69.

 

Bentivegna, F. C.  _Abbigliamento E  Costume Nella Pittura Italiana_

Volume 1.  Bestiti:?

 

I hope these help.

Audelindis de Rheims

 

 

From: dduperault at aol.com (DDuperault)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Costuming

Date: 15 Dec 1994 11:50:11 -0500

 

foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) writes:

 

> However, I have never seen another book showing Italian Ren.

>clothing still intact.  Are there any out there?  If so, how can I

>find it.  Any info. would be appreciated

 

Look for _Lives of the Courtesans_. Published in the late '80's. Beautiful

pictures and decent text. With details of some of the garments. Sorry I

don't recall the author or publisher. I'm sure there are people here who

do..

                                   Avwye

 

 

From: Rick Gaigneur <rgaigneu at unb.ca>

Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: costume patterns

Date: Tue, 14 Feb 1995 09:06:43 -0400

Organization: University of New Brunswick

 

Hi!  For those of you interested in the Patterns for Theatrical Costumes

book, here is the most up-to-date information I have on it (thanks to

having Books in Print on CD-ROM on this computer. Just a joyous thing to

have, by the way!):

 

Patterns for Theatrical Costume  02/1993  Drama Book Publishers

Katherine S. Holbeboer  

illus.

Trade Cloth   ISBN 0-89676-125-8    352p.

$ 29.95 US

 

Publisher:  Drama Book Publishers

            260 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY, 10001, US

            Phone:  212-725-5377

            Fax:    212-725-8506

 

This information was in the most recent (January 1995) update of Global

Books in Print, so it's definitely still available.  Drama Publishers

also has a UK office, so it's available there too.

 

>AETHERIC LINDEBERENDE<                  >Rick Gaigneur<

>Shire of Lyndhaven<

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: cathal at netcom.com (James Pratt)

Subject: Re: costume help - female celt

Date: Thu, 23 Feb 1995 03:06:58 GMT

 

:      Good Milady:

:              The best reference (IMHO) for Celtic (sic) costume

:      is:

:              OLD IRISH AND HIGHLAND DRESS

:              by H.F. McClintock

:              Dundalgan Press, Dundalk, 1943.

:      Most major University libraries should have it our your local

:      can get it for you through ILL.

:              Cathal Mac Edan

:              Barony of the South Downs, Meridies.

 

 

From: henrys at icicle.winternet.COM (The Henry's)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Book on researching and recreating historical costumes

Date: 22 Mar 1995 16:59:15 -0500

 

This review is being posted with the permission of its author, Danine

Cozzens.  

 

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

l  Rosanore of Redthorn  (Susan Guthmann Henry)    Member #8769 since 1976  l

*                        henrys at winternet.com                               *  

l                                                                          l

*  "Every status quo is a prison house of the spirit."                      *

l                                                     --Henry Nelson Wyman  l

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

 

---------- Forwarded message ----------

 

   After a Fashion - Book Review

 

   Frances Grimble recently posted that her new book, _After a

   Fashion_, was available by mail for $35. I was probably one

   of the first to receive a copy, and thought folks on this

   group would appreciate a more detailed description

   before sending for the book sight unseen.

 

   If you have subscribed to this group, you will probably want

   to buy this book. It is so well targeted to living history

   reenactors that someone living in utter isolation, with only

   this book and the appropriate patterns or costume diagrams

   in hand, could outfit themselves respectably for a major

   historical event. Frances Grimble has had national exposure

   as an expert on vintage fashion with her articles in

   _Threads_ and _Vintage Fashions_; this book should establish

   her as an authority on historic costume construction as well.

 

   _After A Fashion_ is almost five books in one: It's a survey

   of historic costume, a costume planner, a book of period

   sewing techniques, a guide to vintage fashions, and a

   costuming resource list.

 

   The first chapter (57 pages) describes "garb" for the most

   popular reenactment eras: Medieval [12th, 13th and 14th

   centuries each described separately], Elizabethan, American

   Revolutionary, English Regency, Civil War, Gay Nineties,

   Ragtime, and Art Deco. These overviews give a good sense of

   what upper-class men and women wore, and whether you or your

   significant other would want to be seen in it.

 

   Chapter 2 deals with planning your outfit. There are

   numerous practical hints on planning your costuming project,

   including a catchall list of everything you need to pack for

   any event in any period, from

   "Paltock/pourpoint/cotehardie/double/coat/jacket" to

   "Bag/pouch/pockets/purse." The list consumes an entire page;

   no wonder it takes so long to get dressed for an event!

   Other sections tell how to hire a dressmaker, how to

   overcome budget limitations, and how to buy by mail. I loved

   the "historical mix and match" Civil War weekend wardrobe,

   based on separate day and evening tops for the same skirt--

   as practical now as it was at the time.

 

   Chapters 3 and 4 address construction techniques. The

   instructions are so complete that the financially challenged

   could well purchase this book instead of a conventional

   sewing encyclopedia. The numerous line drawings by Deborah

   Kuhn, who illustrated the original Folkwear patterns, show

   what you need to know at a glance. A one-page analysis of a

   Regency shirt conveys the principle of geometric garment

   construction shown in _Cut My Cote_. Another example shows

   how a Civil War skirt was "leveled" at the waist after

   applying the copious ornamentation to the hem.

  

   Chapters 5, 6 and 7 cover buying vintage clothes, mending

   garments, and altering them. Fran explains the need for

   preservation of old and truly unique garments, and shows how

   one can incorporate parts of dying dresses into new

   costumes, or replace worn portions, such as underarms. The

   altering and mending hints would also help transform stage

   or thrift shop finds into something "peri-oid" that could be

   worn at less rigorous historic events, or let you rescue a

   tired costume of your own.

  

   The book ends with twenty-five pages of annotated

   bibliography cover books, book dealers, and periodicals;

   supplies for reproduction and restoration; reproduction

   clothes, accessories and weapons; vintage clothes and

   accessories; and the organizations who put on events where

   you can wear all these duds. Each entry has a short

   description. And it is cross-referenced for easy locating.

  

   _After A Fashion_ is beautifully laid out, clearly written,

   and professionally printed. The big (8-1/2" by 11"), thick

   (over 300 pages) format boasts a slick cover whose ink

   won't come off on your hand. Since Fran is a dancer, most of

   the couples are shown in dance positions, a good reminder

   that our ultimate goal as historic costumers is to make a

   believable appearance at period events (and to have a

   wonderful time!).

  

   _After a Fashion_ can be mail ordered from:

  

   Lavolta Press

   20 Meadowbrook Drive

   San Francisco, CA 94132

  

   The price is $35 (plus sales tax for CA residents) plus $3.50 shipping.

  

   Danine Cozzens   Internet: dgc3 at pge.com

   (I will be happy to respond to further inquiries

   individually or in subsequent postings.)

 

 

From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Designs for Cavalier Clothes

Date: 10 Jun 1995 15:40:12 GMT

 

Susanna Richardson  <70357.3331 at CompuServe.COM> wrote:

>The 'Annotated Arnold' has been discussed a number of times by

>costumers, and there is a consensus that the author had a serious

>axe to grind.

 

  Yes, the author did.  In a word:  so?  That doesn't mean the points made

  in the "Annotated Arnold" are wrong.  Have you, my lady, ever read it?

 

>Ms. Arnold is a respected expert in her field, she has published

>a great many articles, and outside that one ... publication, I

>have never seen her conclusions called into question.

 

  Ms. Arnold is without question a wonderful conservator and curator, but

  a seamstress she is not.  The errors she makes in "Patterns of Fashion"

  are numerous, easily verified, and some of these mistakes make reproducing

  the garments as she describes them impossible.

 

  The two easiest examples of egregious error are seen on page 5 (the hanging

  sleeve) and pages 112 and 113 (the 'Pair of bodies' or corset).

 

  I won't go into detail, but I suggest cutting out both these patterns in

  muslin and trying to put them together.  You'll soon find that the sleeve

  is impossible (I spent hours on it, since I believed, at that point, that

  Arnold was perfect), and that the corset is unwearable (and ends up looking

  more like a Rocky Horror costume piece than an Elizabethan anything).

 

>-just my two cents worth on the subject of Arnold, whose books I

>always recommend along with Jean Hunnisett.

 

  I'm not saying "Patterns of Fashion" is without merit (which would be

  incredibly stupid -- there's a lot of good stuff here). I am simply

  observing that Arnold makes many errors, and all the ones I've run into

  while trying to make some of the clothes therein are addressed in

  "The Annotated Arnold".  It is therefore worth the time of anyone who

  is making clothes from Arnold's book to read though it.

--

------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu -------------------------

                      42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101

 

 

From: sclark at blues.epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb?

Date: 27 Mar 1995 03:04:03 GMT

Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS

 

Greetings!

        There is no ONE definative book on medieval garb.  Why??  Because

the medieval part of the SCA is about 800 years long, with 200 or so of

the Renaissance tacked on.  Can anyone name a single history book which

is the "definative history" of this very long period?  (rhetorical

question!!!)

        There are definative books for specific periods (for instance,

Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ for the late 16th century;

Stella Mary Newton's -Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ for the

14th century, and so on.  And there are also good overviews with lots

of pictures, such as the big fat Davenport book whose name escapes

me at the moment.  However, there are a number of periods that don't

have a "definative book" --my own (13th century) is a good example.

Theree are some books that cover it well--but you can't really

understand the period until you've read all the books AND ppored over

illuminations, paintings, and statuary--and you're still just

guessing in many instances.

 

Cheers!

Nicolaa/Susan

Canton of Eoforwic

sclark at epas.utoronto.ca

 

 

From: sniderm at mcmail2.cis.McMaster.CA (Mike Snider)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb?

Date: 27 Mar 1995 21:38:00 -0500

Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

 

Greetings,

  I am certain you will get a flood of postings on this one, but I will

add a few good books to Nicolaa's.

Jeanne D'Arc Ses Costumes, Son Armure by Adrien Harmand is an excellent

source for costumes of the 1400s. Unfortunatly it is in French, but has

many useful pictures.

The Museum of London: Textiles and Clothing. This covers English

clothing from 1150-1450 and is very detailed and informative. Actualy,

The Shoes and Pattens book in the same series might also come in handy.

 

  Good luck with your project.

  Elizabeth Cadfan

 

 

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Suggestions for books dealing with Ren. Italy.

Date: 22 Mar 1996 05:44:40 GMT

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

 

I found a wonderful book in the costume section of IU library:

 

Newton, Stella Mary.  Dress of the Venetians, 1490-1520.

 

It's not just a study of costume, but also a study of clothing in relation to

politics, and social order.  She uses important primary sources, such as

Sanudo's Diaries for her research.  It's very well done, and very funny in

places....

 

Audelindis de Rheims

 

 

From: pat at lalaw.lib.CA.US (Pat Lammerts)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: costume book citations (was I need help...)

Date: 27 Nov 1995 16:17:11 -0500

 

CaitlynMK wrote:

>

>>Newton, Stella Mary.  _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_

>>1980, Boydell Press. {covers the years 1340-1365}

>>

>>Crowfoot, Elisabeth, et al. _Textiles and Clothing; Medieval finds

>>from Excavations in London_ (Museum of London). 1992, HMSO

>>

>Greetings from the Outlands, Baroyn of Caerthe.  Do you by any

chance

>have the ISBN nos for these books.  I would love to get a look at

them.

>Thanks

>

>CaitlynMK

 

Here is what you asked for.  I hope it is of help.

 

Newton, Stella Mary.

  Fashion in the age of the Black Prince : a study of the years

1340-1365 / Stella Mary Newton. -- Woodbridge : Boydell Press

; Totowa, N.J. : Rowman & Littlefield, 1980.

  vi, 151 p., [1] leaf of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 29 cm.

 

  ISBN 0847669394 (Rowman & Littlefield.) L15.00

  LCCN: 81111912

 

 

Crowfoot, Elisabeth.

  Textiles and clothing : c.1150-c.1450 / Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances

Pritchard, and Kay Staniland ; photography by Edwin Baker ;

illustrations by Christina Unwin. -- London : HMSO, c1992.

  x, 223 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 25 cm. -- (Medieval finds from

excavations in London ; 4)

 

  Series: Museum of London. Medieval finds from excavations in London; 4.

  ISBN 0112904459

 

Huette

 

 

From: gileshill at aol.com (Gileshill)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Truly Worthwhile Later-Period Costume Resource

Date: 21 May 1996 11:03:41 -0400

 

My friends:  I have just purchased (well, Louise and I split it) an

incredible book called "Dynasties, Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England,

1530-1630"  edited by Karen Hearn, ISBN 0-8478-1940-X, published by

Rizzoli.

 

Cost $60.00, and worth every penny.  It's 267 pages of FULL COLOUR protrait

reproductions, with expert commentary on the clothing, architecture, flora

and fauna, and sitters.  I strongly recommend you put this on your birthday

wish lists, your suggested prize for competitions, or just go out and buy it;

you won't be disappointed.

 

Giles

 

 

From: LIB_IMC at centum.utulsa.edu

To: ansteorra at eden.com

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:28:33 -0500 (CDT)

Subject: Re: Survey (was Castellan)

 

<Antoine D'Aubernoun<"\"Randy Shipp\"" <rshipp at molly.hsc.unt.edu>>

>My persona is 1280 Norman.  Know where I can get patterns or pictures?

 

Yes.  I'm going to suggest some sources that are, er, not pristine pure

from an academic standpoint, but if you are careful, will help you out

a lot.  The first is "Patterns for theatrical costumes" by Katherine

Holkeboer.  She also has one called "Costume Construction", but I haven't

actually read it.  If nothing else, this is a good way to see how these

things can be pieced together, even if the patterns aren't always

absolutely correct (as with making shoes, sometimes you just have to

take the knowledge you have on hand, and make a blind guess as to a

pattern).

 

I'm about to make a suggestion that will likely get me sneered at, and

I'll expain why in a minute.  See if you can find a series of books called

"Costume and Fashion" by Herbert Norris.  Many people don't care for

this set of books (even though his material on Ecclesastical Costume

is, I believe, a standard text in that area).  He doesn't cite his

sources and there *are* accusations that he makes things up at times

(although I have yet to see anyone offer examples or citations to support

the accusation).  Keep these in mind when you read the books, and be

a little cautious (it's sort of like eating cheese that's got moldy bits

-- you can easily just throw out the whole thing, but if you are careful,

most of it's still perfectly good :) ).

 

You will notice that I do use him in my Shoe document, and I also will

try and supplement that where I can with other, more reliable material.

 

These should get you past the initial "Ok, so how do I do this?" stage.

Later, you can progress onto the inner mysteries of costuming (or so

my wife tells me :) ).

 

Diarmuit

 

 

From: Laura McKinstry <dalm at why.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Period costume patterns?This was from the wrong account

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 11:16:47 -0400

 

For the

Elizabethan period, I don't think you can beat "Elizabethan Costuming

for the years 1550-1580" by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy.  ISBN

0-9630220-0-8.  $15  This will put you in England or Ireland during the

reign of Elizabeth Tudor.  Possibly other coutnries, but as an

Irishwoman, I didn't research that far.

 

The drawings are clear, and they not only show you what the finished

product looks like, but also the shapes of the patterns you need to cut

out to create the finished product.  It's black and white. Men's,

women's, children's clothing, headwear, jewelry, cloaks, underpinnings

(corsets, bumroll, etc.,) sleeves, hairstyles, ruffs, hose, and some

background on the whole thing.  I picked up my copy of this book at an

EXCELLENT bookshop at a medieval faire.  It might be available through

the SCA as well.

--------------------------------------------------

Laura McKinstry   aka   Lark of Cire Freunlaven

Dallas, TX              harper

 

 

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Sources for 11th cent. English clothing?

Date: 24 Jul 1996 04:41:30 GMT

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

 

Cunnington, C. Willet and Phyllis, _Handbook of English Costume in the

Middle Ages_.  Faber and Faber: 1968.  (There are several editions and

publishers.

 

Owen-Crocker, Gale R.  _Dress in Anglo-Saxon England_. Manchester University

Press. Manchester, UK: 1986.

 

These are both out of print--or at least Owen-Crocker is, the Cunnington goes

in and out regularly.

But you should be able to get hold of them via ILL.

 

Audelindis de Rheims

 

 

From: sclark at chass.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume

Date: 25 Jul 1996 11:43:57 -0400

Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS

 

Audelindis said,

>Oh, and the book in question is Winters _Elizabethan Costuming: 1580-1600_

>(or as close as I can recall the title not having it in front of me.)

>It is a book on how to do quick and easy elizabethan--a concept which I

>find a contradiction in terms.

 

I never found Winters as bad as many people have claimed it is--so

long as you realize its limitations, chief of which is its advice on fitting

female corsets/bodices.  For lower-class or middle class stuff, it's

acceptable, and the advice it provides on hats and head coverings is not

too bad.  I'd _never_ use it for documentation--not when there are fabulous

books like _Patterns of Fashion_ out there.  I think the problem is that

it looks so comprehensive that people assume that it must be accurate as

well.  Like many other books of this type, I think it started its life

as a guide to making acceptable RenFaire clothing and has been taken as

Gospel by people who have mistaken the authors' original intention.

 

Cheers!

Nicolaa de Bracton

sclark at chass.utoronto.ca

 

 

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume

Date: 25 Jul 1996 03:52:16 GMT

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

 

If we're talking about _Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620_ there is very little

English costume in the book.  She does pattern the bodice of the gown

Eleanore of Toledo--wife of Cosimo de Medici--was wearing when she was

buried.  Since Eleanor's black and white brocaded gown is the usually the

dress that people refer to most often for mid-16th century Italian it's

the best reference I've seen.

 

Audelindis de Rheims

 

 

From: Diana Habra <dch at inreach.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern

Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 05:39:25 -0800

 

However, since I

> have seen the Jean Hunnisett version of the Greenland Dress ("Period

> Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500"),

> I disagree, since they look very similiar.  So this should be a pretty

> good version.

>

> Eleanor Courtenay

 

Please be cautious about taking Jean Hunnisett as gospel. While I agree that her late period costuming is about spot on, her early patterns leave much to be researched.  I am not saying she is totally wrong, I am merely stating that she does patterns to LOOK good on stage and screen.  You would be better off to go to actual sources like photos of preserved clothing (i.e. dresses found in bogs/marshes) or paintings where seam lines can be seen. This type of research on costume will earn you more brownie points with the Laurels of your area.

 

Just a costumer who lives for research....

 

Lady Roseline d'Anjou

Kingdom of the West

 

 

From: cromabu at aol.com

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern

Date: 23 Nov 1996 09:55:47 GMT

 

Keep in mind that no matter what style, period, or country you are trying

to recreate the mind set and habbits of the people.

Even the rich were stingy with their fabric, they didn't like to waste

even a scrap.They were not as privlidged as we with these enormas widths

we are privlidged to use now a days.This didn't mean that they only had

28" looms (as I have been told).Janet Arnold has real patterns in the back

of her books that show how an outfit would be pieced toghter. With the

right fabrics you don't even see the pieced seems.Tailor's Pattern Book

1589, pub. by RuthBean Carlton, Bedford 1979, is an excellant way to see

how people piced their patterns together.

These are all out of your period but they can be helpfull anyway.

                                               Cate

 

 

Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:02:05 -0400 (EDT)

From: Gileshill at aol.com

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Requesting book review

 

In a message dated 97-06-10 09:42:54 EDT, you write:

 

> Amazon Dry Goods is offering Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, by Janet

>  Arnold, for 139.95.  While I greatly respect Janet Arnold, this is a lot of

>  money for me, and I have not been able to locate a library copy to look

>  through.  Does anyone else have this book?  Is it useful for making garb as

>  well as enlarging my Tudor garb vocabulary--in other words, does it have

>  good pictures as well as informative text? Thank you for your time,

 

It has great pictures;  color, closeups, details.  (Of course, they're all

girls, dammit!)  The text is Ms Arnold's usual exhaustive, documented,

original sourced, interesting writing... I recommend it highly.  Chapter

heads include Portraits of the Queen,  Robes of Ceremony, Designs for

Jewellery and Embroidery:  their Sources and Symoblism, Gifts of Clothing and

Jewels,  The Pursuit of Fashion,  The Wardrobe of Robes, The Queen's

Artificers,  and Editor's Notes on the Transcripts of the Stowe and Folger

Inventories and Extracts from the New Year's Gift rolls, and Warrants from

the Wardrobe of Robes.

 

It's well worth the $139.

 

Giles

(who won his copy)

 

 

Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 10:27:44 -0400

From: "lwperkins" <lwperkins at snip.net>

To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Book Review Succeeds

 

I wish to thank everyone who wrote to me regarding Queen Elizabeth's

Wardrobe Unlock'd; the book came a few days ago and it is an astonishing

book---I learned more reading this book about noblewomen's garb in England

from 1560 to 1600 than from all my previous books combined.  For anyone who

is interested in this period's embroidery , find a copy of this book--it

has close-ups of the most intricate blackwork, fabulous beasts, allegorical

symbols and just amazing needlework that I've ever seen. There's a complete

chapter on how the garb was made, close-ups of stitching and fastenings,

pictures of underwear(!).  I learned that light colors were fashionable,

not just dark ones, that Tudor garb was hot to wear even in period, found a

picture of a period "Barbie" doll (an 11-inch fashion doll), and read a ton

of juicy gossip.  Since I probable wouldn't have ponied up the 130.00

without some outside advice, I'm very grateful to all of you.

 

Yours in service,

Ester du Bois

lwperkins at snip.net

 

 

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 11:11:53

From: Sheron Buchele/Curtis Rowland <foxryde at verinet.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: On Fur Trims

 

Gentle Cousins,

 

There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the

various furs used in later period.  I don't remember the exact title - it

was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord)

not there.  It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or

something like that.  It went throught the rolls of the chamberlain and

discussed what clothing was worn and given away and the fabric of each (and

it is not as dry as it sounds).  I remember being struck by the

mono-chromatic Christmas's.  He would give out many many outfits of one

particular color and everyone (who was anyone) in court would wear them to

the season's parties.  There have been a couple of color specific holiday

events here in the Outlands, but I never asked the sponsors if they lifted

the idea from the court of the Black Prince (or if this was done in other

times and other courts).

 

Anyway, I hope that this book would be helpful to you and I apologize for

the vagueness of the cite.

 

Baroness Leonora

 

 

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 17:35:47 -0400

From: "lwperkins" <lwperkins at snip.net>

To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: On Fur Trims

 

Baroness Leonora wrote:

> There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the

> various furs used in later period.  I don't remember the exact title - it

> was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord)

> not there.  It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or

> something like that.

 

The book I have is  "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince-- A study of

the years 1340-1365." by Stella Mary Newton, published by Boydell Press,

P.O. Box 9. woodbridge, Suffolk,1p12 3DF, in USA Rowman and Littlefield, 81

Adams Drive, Totowa, New Jersey, 07512 ,ISBN 0-85115-125-6.  I have been

told that it has been out of print, I got my copy as barter from an

individual. It is a fantastic reference book for the period, though it is

light on pictures, it has excellent text.

 

--Ester Du Bois

lwperkins at snip.net

 

 

From: Dieterich <cjw at vvm.com>

To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG

Date: Thu, 07 Aug 1997 11:34:01 -0500

Subject: Re: ANST - 1400's garb

 

>As Janet Arnold is to the Elizabethan world of costuming...is their

>someone who "knows" 15th century clothing?  

>

>Kayleigh Drake

>Baroness of Bonwicke

>The Western Region of Ansteorra

 

*********

 

Well, at the risk of seeming contrary, the answer is both 'yes' and 'no'.

There are two books- both out of print, coincidentally- that I, a 15th C.

afficianado, deem to be the Gospels according to the 1400s and both are in

the same series- "The History of Fashion" series.  The first one

concentrates on late-gothic europe and the second concentrates on Italian

dress c. 1400-1485.  I have, as is my way, forgotten the names of these

precious tomes but luckily for you and I, Mistress Jeanmaire owns *both*

books and Baroness Clarissa owns the Italian one.  I have had them both on

the Inter-Loc book locating service for almost a year now and have yet to

have either one become availiable.

 

The only fault of these books- the thing that separates them from J.A.- is

that there is little in the way of construction listed. Fabrics, yes.

Terminology, yes.  Illustration, *TONS*.  Hairstyles even. But there just

aren't enough of Phillip the Goods hand-me-downs out there for us to do the

kind of construction analysis that Ms. Arnold does.  These books hinge on

painting and sculpture interpretation but they are the best sources that I

am aware of.

 

'The Rennaissance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500' by Jaqueline Herald 1981

ISBN 0-7135-1294-6

 

'Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500' by Margret Scott 1980

ISBN 0-263-06429-8

 

If you pay $75 for either of these, I don't believe you'd be paying too much.

 

 

There is one other bright star in the quest for fine 15th C. knowledge, but

it is hotly contested:  The Medieval Soldier, by Gerry Embleton and John

Howe 1994, ISBN 1-85915-036-5.  This book is by another group of

re-creationists called The Company of Saynte George; essentially a group of

european (mainly Swiss and English) museum workers and medieval studies grad

students who center all their research on Switzerland in the year 1460.

IMHO, this book is nearly flawless and a must-have for anyone who is serious

about the 15th C.  And it's in print;)  You may recognize Mr. Embletons name

from his work on the popular Osprey Men-at-Arms series.

 

It occurs to me that I have failed to mention *why* this book is contested

at all.  Its content is almost entirely photographically recorded replicas

or interpretations of 15th C. pieces... hence, the garments you see are all

tertiary sources.  That's the bad news.  The good news is that the folks who

have done all this work are legitimate experts who work *only* in period

materials.  Much of the arms and armor is the real thing, on loan to

employees of the establishments that house them (doesn't help us with

*garments* per se, but you have to take these guys seriously).  

 

Dieterich

 

 

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 01:53:26 -0700

From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Books about costuming

 

For a specific pattern-type book on SCA-period interest clothing for women, I

would recommend three specific books, and a reference to a hard-to-find

corollary volume for one of 'em:

 

Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion, the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men

and Women c. 1560-1620

ISBN 0-333-38284-6

This book is primary documentation together with secondary interpretation of cut

and construction (after all, Janet Arnold did not take apart each garment to

draft her patterns!). It has photographs of surviving garments from the period

listed. It is later in period than the cotehardie, but fascinating nonetheless.

Arnold mentions a forthcoming book on early period garments in the back of PoF,

but to date has yet to deliver the goods.

 

If you can find it, Robert Trump's "The Annotated Arnold", while written in a

somewhat  vitriolic manner, has some useful commentary on the problems inherent

in some of Arnold's graphed patterns. It is not necessary to have this book,

though, as long as one cautiously tries out the patterns in paper or cheap

fabric FIRST, before cutting into one's own cloth.

 

Hunnisett, Jean: Period Costume for Stage & Screen, patterns for Women's Dress,

Medieval - 1500

ISBN 0-88734-653-7    I love this book!

 

Hunnisett, Jean: Period Costume for Stage & Screen, patterns for Women's Dress,

1500 - 1800

ISBN 0-88734-610-3    I love this one, too!

 

The latter two books are secondary source material, written by an extremely

experienced and skilled theatrical costumer. While she is not particularly

interested in precise historical reproduction (apparently, she wasn't even aware

of this application of her books until after she published the second!), she is

nonetheless extremely accurate in translating period shape and form to flat

patterns. Compare the difference in cutting diagram between her houpelande

sleeve and Hill & Bucknell's Evolution of Fashion, for example. (I won't repeat

my rant on sleeves again....[grin]) I really like her sideless surcote patterns,

too.

 

I would also recommend that one seeks out copies of Compleat Anachronists #38,

#39 and #40. Contained in 39 are extremely useful articles on how to construct,

via slash-and-spread, period skirt pieces and sleeves-- and 39 and 40 point out

errors in Hill & Bucknell's "Evolution of Fashion", a flawed and very common SCA

source for costume cutting (as is Holkeboer, who somewhat shamelessly has taken

a few of the EoF cutting methods and reproduced them, lock stock and barrel!).

Most useful of all, in issue 39 is a very extensive Costume Bibliography, with

commentary on each book from two very experienced and well-researched SCA

costume Laurels.

 

And if you're really feeling ambitious with the Interlibrary loan system, go for

these:

 

Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; and Staniland, Kay: _Textiles and

Clothing c. 1150-c. 1450; HMSO Publications; London, 1992

 

Newton, Stella Mary: _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_, Boydell Press,

Suffolk, 1980 ISBN: 0847669394

 

and for a general survey book with a few tertiary pattern diagrams far superior

to Holkeboer and Hill & Bucknell:

 

Daily Life in Charcer's England, Geffrey L. Singman and Will McLean, ISBN

0-313-29375-9

 

Hope this helps!

 

ciorstan

 

 

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 17:16:45 -0700

From: "KHvS" <meistern at iquest.net>

To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Books about costuming

 

Greetings,

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned "The Encycolpedia of World Costume" by

Doreen Yarwood.  This book has what I think you are asking for.  It is done

aphabetically, but not chronologically.  It does have definitions of types

of dress in different periods (just not done chronologically).  It was

published by Bonanza Books in 1986 and has an ISBN of: 0-517-61943-1.  You

might go to a good book seller and see if they can find it for you.  I

cannot recall what I paid for my copy, but the dust cover says it was

"Originally published at $32.50"  It has only line drawings, but it would

be a good starting point.  Also, try going to the SCA arts & sciences page

on the web for some good links to different kinds of things, costuming

being only one of many. <www.pbm.com/~lindahl/arts_and_sciences.html>

 

Also, I might suggest you look at Art History books, as SCA costuming is

always based off of paintings.  Most of the time, the artists painted

biblical subjects in the clothing of their own time periods (they seemed to

have great difficulty envisioning what they really wore in biblical times).

Also, books on Medieval manuscripts will also be quite helpful.  They

won't give you actual patterns, but many dresses of the Medieval period are

not too far off from modern ones and you could perhaps figure out a way to

adapt on a pattern.  

 

Meisterin Katarina Helene von Schoenborn, OL (calligraphy & illumination)

(mka: Helen Schultz -- Peru, IN)

 

 

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 13:07:16 -0500

From: mary boulet <boulet.roger at mcleod.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: books on costuming

 

May I suggest this text as a good general reference for those new to

historical costuming:

 

History of Costume, by Blanche Payne, c.1965, Harper & Row, publ.

 

I purchased this book for a costuming class at UNL about a dozen years

ago. It is well illustrated, albeit in b/w, from primary sources, most

of which are noted. It covers a broad range, from ancient Egypt up to

the twentieth century, with 205 pages devoted to the SCA time period.

The text introduces many specific costume terms, including cotehardie.

BTW did you know the short version worn by the men is often called a

courtepy? The text helps to establish the evolutionary nature of

costume, and places each costume in its cultural/historical context. Its

a good place to begin, and can help a newcomer focus on the costume era

they will be most comfortable with, before they head out to the art

library for more specific research.

My own copy was purchased used for $27.50 from a college bookstore. I

suspect other, more recent costume textbooks are on the market now. I

would enquire of any college teaching costuming, whether through a

textiles, clothing and design curriculum or a theatre curriculum, what

texts they are now using. I refer to my copy of Payne frequently when

I'm delving out of my own persona time frame. It's worth the small

investment.

Myra Nedlesaeng, Calontir

 

 

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:00:35 -0500 (CDT)

From: Eloise Beltz-Decker <eloise at ripco.com>

To: Sca Arts List <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Moderately interesting costume book

 

        Thought I'd share, since the list seems kind of quiet :-> The

book I managed to actually take out on my odyssey into the public library

system, is Iris Brooke's _Medieval Theatre Costume_, published in 1963,

originally. My copy's from '67. Library of Congress number is 67-25699,

for those interested. And now on to the review. :->

        Interesting - for the sketches, mainly. Construction-wise, it's

meant for making good, sturdy garments that *look* medieval, but not

necessarily constructed in a medieval manner. Its construction techniques

and helpful tips are, however, meant for the sewer on a shoestring

budget, and she explains all kinds of interesting things that might be

of limited SCA use - like details about medieval ecclesiastical robes.

        Of much interest to SCAdians, however, are the multiple

line-drawings in it, taken from period paintings; the explanations of

same; and the rather long section on  ... basic heraldry, of all things

:-> Explanations of how to divide the shield, what vair and erminoise

are, and other ground-floor stuff. Nothing a real herald would be too

interested in, but nice for those of us that are just still wannabes :->

        There's a section on footgear, a section on hats (including how

to drape a wimple that's *real*, and why you don't use nun's patterns for

them). All of it is meant to be kicked around, since it's for the

theatre, and there's hints on getting used to moving with a sword on your

belt and the like. The one I have is missing several color plates, one of

which (according to later pages that refer to it) is a diagram of where

to measure people to fit clothes properly to them.

--

Eloise Beltz-Decker

eloise at ripco.com

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:30:30 -0800

From: Michelle Meinhold <meinhold at csufresno.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume Research

 

Here are some great books that do have pictures to look at.

You can get these from Barnes & Noble or maybe other bookstores in your area.

 

"The Chronicle of Western Fashion - From Ancient Times to the Present Day" by

John Peacock

"20,000 Years of Fashion - The History of Costume & Personal Adornment" by

Francois Boucher

"The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes" by Albert Racinet

"Racinet's Full-Color Pictorial History of Western Costume" by Auguste

Racinet

 

The last book is an inexpensive book to buy. The other three are quite

expensive...they cost about $50.00 a piece.

 

Giovanna Mocenigo

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:01:35 +0000

From: Karen at agent.infodata.com (Harris, Karen)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: More books

 

Vitale wrote:

> My ex had a book that we got at a Renn fair, while in LA. It was a book

> about the same size and quality as the KWH, but was about Elizabethan

> costuming. Of course I can't remember the exact title.

>

> Does anyone recognise the book I am talking about? Is it in general

> publication?

 

Title: ELIZABETHAN COSTUMING FOR THE YEARS 1550-1580

 

Authors: Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy

 

Publisher:  Other Times Publications, 361 60th Street, Dept.

T, Oakland, CA  94618

 

Nope, haven't heard of it ;)

 

I bought my copy at the Folger Shakespeare Library for $15.00 US.  

You can buy it directly from the publisher for this price plus $1.50

shipping and handling.

 

I really do like this book, and it's an excellent primer for

Elizabethan costuming.  It's not the be-all and end-all, but it will

give you a running start.  :)

 

Karen Larsdatter

  Barony of Ponte Alto, Atlantia

 

 

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:20:47 -0600 (CST)

From: Lorine S Horvath <lhorvath at plains.NoDak.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume Research

 

Try Anglo-saxon dress and accessories by Gale Owen Crocker.  It is one of

the best sources I know of for pre-1066 northern european garb.  

 

 

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 07:43:07 -0700

From: Nancy Lynch <lughbec at info2000.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume Research

 

For more early info I can recommend the following:

"COSTUME AND FASHION, The Evolution of European Dress Through the

Earlier Ages"; Herbert Norris, JM Dent and Sons

 

Any of several different books or articles by Margrethe Hald including;

"Primitive Shoes"

 

Prehistoric Textiles by E.J.W. Barber

 

Geschichte des Kostums by Erika Theil (in German :)

 

...and the bibliographies in these books.

Sonas ort! (Happiness on you!)

Mistress Lughbec

 

 

Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 21:12:44 -0500 (EST)

From: <Varju at aol.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume Research

 

An interesting book on Turkish garb is:

 

_Women's Costume ofr the Near and Middle East_

Jennifer Scarce

 

If you need it, I have ISBN number around here somewhere.

 

Noemi

 

 

Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 08:02:45 +0000

From: "Nancy Dalton" <nancykd at ea.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume Research

 

Please be careful when researching clothing.

The best sources would be archaeological journals talking about

clothes found at digs or in graves.  

For 1300s England a good book is

   "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince".  

   (I don't have it myself or I'd include the ISBN.)  

For 1150-1450 England try

   "Medieval Finds from Excavations in London: Textiles and Clothing c.1150-1450" ISBN  0 11 290445 9

 

Good secondary sources would be manuscripts or artwork from the time

period.  A lot of those can be found on the Web with some searching

through places like the Labyrinth.  (although be careful about

religious figures: saints, Joseph, Mary, etc.)

"20,000 Years of Fashion" is a good source because it uses and

presents archaeological information along with period artwork to

analyze the clothing.

Several other authors, Racinet and Peacock to name a few, redrew the

artwork in their own image of what the clothing and human body should

look like.  Racinet is a good source for determining what the

Victorians thought medieval clothing looked like.  In his defense,

the technology at the time did not allow the duplication of artwork

to be printed in books, so all artwork that one wanted put in a book

had to be redrawn.  Peacock and Racinet are very poor costuming

sources, they are inaccurate in different ways and places that are

hard to predict or find without seeing the original work that they

drew from.

It's a lot of fun working with flat pieces of fabric for hours until

they're transformed into an outfit that not only looks good on

somebody, but looks just like one in a particular painting.

Happy Costuming,

Nancy Dalton

ska Earnwynn van Zwaluwenburg

 

 

From: schuldy at abel.harvard.edu (Mark Schuldenfrei)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: [SCA] BOOK WANTED: "Ancient Danish Textiles"

Date: 28 Apr 1998 14:28:09 GMT

 

Gwen Morse  <goldmoon at geocities.com> wrote:

  The librarians are having trouble finding it because it's not listed

  in the Library of Congress. They are apparently working on it,

  though. In any event, I would like to own a copy.

 

You need a better class of librarian.  I found it online at

http://lcweb2.loc.gov/catalog/booksquery.html in a few seconds.  This is the

Library of Congress listing.

 

        Tibor

 

Olddanske tekstiler. English Ancient Danish textiles from bogs and

burials : a comparative study of costume and Iron Age textiles

     by Margrethe Hald ; [translated by Jean Olsen].

     [Copenhagen] : National Museum of Denmark, c1980.

     398 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm.

     Bibliography: p. [394]-398.

     Translation of Olddanske tekstiler.

Series:

     Publications of the National Museum. Archaeological-historical

     series ; v. 21

Subjects:

     Iron age--Denmark.

     Textile fabrics--Denmark--History.

     Costume--Denmark--History.

     Costume--History--To 500.

     Denmark--Antiquities.

 

Call Number             LCCN            Dewey Decimal   ISBN/ISSN

GN780.22.D4 H3413 1980  82200893 //r97  677/.009489     8748003123

--

Mark Schuldenfrei (schuldy at math.harvard.edu)

 

 

From: mmy at innocent.com (mmy)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: [SCA] BOOK WANTED: "Ancient Danish Textiles"

Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:08:19 GMT

 

On Mon, 27 Apr 1998 23:28:07 GMT, goldmoon at geocities.com (Gwen Morse)

wrote:

>I am in desperate need of finding the following book. I have it

>registered with some book searches, and it has still NOT turned up. I

>thought I might ask among those who would be most likely to have it...

>Anyone willing to sell their copy??? Anyone have a lead on where to

>DEFINATELY find a copy? It is out of print. Oh, yes, I need the

>ENGLISH edition!

>

>"Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials"

>by Margrethe Hald  

>ISBN- 87-480-0312-3

 

It's not at all out of print. I just bought a copy two months ago from

the National museum of Denmark. They're on the web, www.natmus.dk,

with an email link to their shop. And yes, that was the english

edition.

 

be warned, it's expensive.

 

/mmy

 

 

Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 12:05:56 -0400 (EDT)

From: Marybeth Lavrakas <lavrakas at email.unc.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Book question

 

>The other day I was looking at books in print, and I came across a

>reference to "Dress in the Middle Ages" by Fran=87oise Piponnier and

>Perrine Mane, Yale University Press, 1998, $25.  ISBN 0-300-06906-5.

>Has anyone seen this book?  I was wondering if it is worth buying.

 

>Kathy/Katerina

 

Yes, I've read this book.  It's a very basic survey, with sadly few

pictures.  I don't think it's worth buying for $25.00  (I got mine free,

so I'm happy enough).  As a matter of fact, I thought it surprisingly

lightweight for a University Press book (especially Yale!)

 

Kathryn Rous

 

 

Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 19:45:16 -0400 (EDT)

From: Carol Thomas <scbooks at neca.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Book question

 

>The other day I was looking at books in print, and I came across a

>reference to "Dress in the Middle Ages" by Fran=87oise Piponnier and

>Perrine Mane, Yale University Press, 1998, $25.  ISBN 0-300-06906-5.

>Has anyone seen this book?  I was wondering if it is worth buying.

 

It has good text (according to a friend who is a costumer) and few pictures,

small and b&w.  Whether it is worth buying probably depends on the reader's

level of expertise and background.  It filled in a number of gaps and

questions for my friend.  It does not look like a beginner's book to me.  I

started reading it & want to finish just for general background, and find it

well written (some of these books are like wading through mud).

 

Lady Carllein

 

 

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:50:20 PDT

From: "T Cardy" <otterbabi at hotmail.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Is this book any good?

 

>I was thinking of buying this book,Costume Technicians Handbook by Rosemary

>Ingham,  I've heard that it is good but what exactly is in it?

>

>Anna de Byxe

 

I have taught university costume classes using her book as the text

book.  Her attention to detail is good and offers quite a complete

coverage of the theatre costumer's arts.  The book does go into depth in

some techniques.

 

The key thing to remember, is that the book is a  costume technicians

handbook - short cuts, non period stuff, and a big chunk of the book is

specifically dedicated to theatre techniques.

 

It is a marvelous reference book, and offers a lot of basic information

that can get you started easily in learning new techniques.

 

Timothy Van Vlear

 

 

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:53:54 -0500

From: Gwen Morse <goldmoon at northeast.net>

To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU, h-costume-digest at indra.com

Subject: Book Review: A History of Costume [SCA]

 

"A History of Costume" by Naomi Tarrant

National Museums of Scotland (1994)

 

Purchased for $24.95 through Amazon.com

 

My comments: Very few books can be useful to more than one time period or

region of historical costuming research. This volume is one that is. The

book starts out with a short discussion of skin garments, works through

early peplos or bog-style dresses, and continues through the various

centuries to modern clothing. It touches upon fabric weaving styles,

various types of material, stitches and alternative fastenings, pattern

layout and cutting methods, differences between male and female clothing,

ect. There is no in-depth coverage of any one particular topic, but the

varied nuggets of information would be of use to many different re-enactors

based in general European or Early American cultures. I would suggest this

book as an invaluable starting place for new garb makers. In particular, it

collects information from many singularly useful sources into one place (an

early Anglo-Saxon garment, the Greenland gown, when machine-sewn garments

became widespread, examples of stitch types, short discussions on natural

dyes, fiber and weave types, etc).

 

I bought this book because I heard about it on one of the lists, and was

curious about it. I fell in love with in after a few minutes of reading it.

I want to stress again that it's greatest strength is the range of topics

it covers - it would be of equal use to a Medieval or a Regency or a

Victorian re-enactor/costumer.

---

Gwen Morse // mailto:goldmoon%40geocities.com

 

 

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:18:26 +0200

From: Jessica Tiffin <melisant at iafrica.com>

To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU

Subject: Re:  "Costume" Book resources

 

>I am fairly new to the SCA and am really interested in Garb designing and

>sewing.  I would like to further my knowledge of period garb and styles.  I am

>thinking of purchasing the following books and would appreciate any insight or

>opinions on their credibility as a resource.  They are:

 

>2)  "Historic Costumes in Pictures"  (Braun & Schneider)

 

I'd be a bit dubious of this one - as far as I know, it's a work written in

the Victorian age, and while there are lots of pictures, their accuracy is a

bit debatable by modern standards. (The dreaded Victorian tendency to

romanticise!).  No original sources, all redrawn.

 

>3)  "Medieval Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th, & 15th Centuries"

>(Mary G. Houston)

 

This is _wonderful_ because she gives construction diagrams for the various

garments - the book has a "Construction" chapter for each century, and also

a chapter on embroidery designs.  Her main problem is that she redraws all

her pictures - the book contains no reproductions of original sources, so

you're looking at her interpretations.  On the other hand, she does tell you

where she's redrawn them from in most cases.  I personally think that the

advantages of this book outweigh the drawbacks.

 

Melisant

 

 

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 12:58:48 EST

From: <Bjmikita at aol.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Costume resources

 

For a great  book that gives an overall view of texiles and has an fantastic

list of references and sources is TEXTILES 5,000 years. Edited by Jennifer

Harris  isbn 0-8109-3875-8.  A good friend is a historical costumer who has

done work for various museumns and she raves about this book.  Borrow it

from your local library as it is rather expensive.

 

Jeanne de La Mer

 

 

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:40:35 -0500 (EST)

From: Jenne Heise <jenne at tulgey.browser.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re:  "Costume" Book resources

 

On Sun, 10 Jan 1999, Jessica Tiffin wrote:

> >2)  "Historic Costumes in Pictures" (Braun & Schneider)

> I'd be a bit dubious of this one - as far as I know, it's a work written in

> the Victorian age, and while there are lots of pictures, their accuracy is a

> bit debatable by modern standards. (The dreaded Victorian tendency to

> romanticise!).  No original sources, all redrawn.

 

Braun & Schneider is also available on the web at:

 

http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME1_INDEX.HTML

 

Jadwiga Zajaczkowa (Shire of Eisental; HERMS Cyclonus), mka Jennifer Heise

jenne at tulgey.browser.net

 

 

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:35:00 -0500

From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER at kentlaw.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Juan de Alcega

 

Today my copy of "Tailor's Pattern Book 1589" arrived in the mail.  I am

very excited, this is a reissue of the 1978 edition which has been

unavailable for so long!  The book is a facsimile with translation of

"Libro de Geometria, Pratica Y Traca" (Book of the Practice of

Tailoring-- Measuring and Marking Out) by Juan de Alcega, printed in

Madrid in 1589.  Alcega was a master tailor.

 

The book was apparently intended as a guide for journeymen tailors, to

help them figure out economical ways of cutting out garments, as well as

giving them diagrams for some standard styles of garment. For each

garment, there is a cutting diagram (much like the cutting diagrams that

come with modern patterns), an estimate as to how much fabric is required

(in Castillian ells) and brief directions on how the garment goes

together.  He also includes charts to help figure out how much fabric is

needed based on desired length of the garment and fabric width.

 

In "Patterns of Fashion" Janet Arnold cites this book extensively, though

she complains that the translation is not as perfect as it could be,

because the translators were not costume scholars.  Here's a great

opportunity for any Spanish-speaking costumers out there. I believe that

the book is extremely useful even if the translation is not flawless.

The 3/4 of the book is a facsimile of the original, the remaining 1/4 is

a translation, glossary, and notes (including a conversion table for

Castillian ells to centimeters).

 

The book contains diagrams for 73 garments, plus a diagram for a "war

banner," and two diagrams for "silk saddle trappings for jousts."  The

garments are for men and women (and two for girls).  The men's garments

include ceremonial cloaks and church vestments.

 

At any rate, you can either ask your local bookstore to order it for you,

or order it direct from the publisher (as I did).  The details are:

 

Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589: Libro de Geometria, Pratica y Traca

by Alcega, Juan de

Pain, J.(Tr.); Bainton, C.(Tr.); Nevinson, J.L. (Ed.)

Costume & Fashion Press (an imprint of Quite Specific Media Group Ltd.)

[or Ruth Bean Publishers, if you are in the U.K.]

February 1999

ISBN: 0-89676-234-3 [0-90358-531-6 for U.K. edition]

 

To order directly from the U.S. publisher:

Quite Specific Media Group, Ltd.

Attn: Ralph Pine

260 Fifth Avenue, Suite 703

New York, NY 10001

(212)725-5377, fax (212)725-8506

email: info at quitespecificmedia.com

www.quitespecificmedia.com

 

The book costs $40 + shipping, and is a paperback.  The fact that it is a

paperback is my only problem with the book.  Even though it is reasonably

well-bound for a paperback, paperbacks never wear as well as a hardback

book, and I intend to continue studying this book for a long time to come.

 

Kathy Whisler (Katerina Arondel)

 

<the end>



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org