washing-msg - 1/26/08
Washing different fabrics. How to wash and what not to wash.
NOTE: See also the files: textiles-msg, piled-fabrics-msg, velvet-msg, silk-msg, linen-msg, lace-msg, ruffs-msg, color-a-fab-bib, beadwork-msg.
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From: lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Washing cotton velvetteen and velvets ???
Date: 16 Feb 1994 01:50:12 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
Greetings, all, esp. milord Horace:
In article <9402160540.AA17530 at milo.nodak.edu>,
Robert Arthur Ayotte <ayotte at milo.NOdak.EDU> wrote:
> I have some cotton velvets and velveteen that I want to make into
>garb, but know it's better to wash the fabric first. Here's the quesion:
>
>Can cotton velvets and velveteens be machine washed and dried?
A resounding YES! That's the beauty of Cotton Velveteen! (I love the
stuff...)
My suggestion to you is that you wash your fabric first (you know that,
but there's more) in the hottest water your machine can muster. Use
detergent, and rinse well. Then dry in the dryer, and remove when still
slightly damp (not much -- just to keep it from wrinkling).
The hot water and machine drying will pre-shrink it for you. After this,
anything you make out of it will be washable- and dryable-garb (depending
on the trim you put on it, of course...but that's another post!)
It also depends on the color-fast quality of the fabric. A way to test this
is to take a square of white cotton and wash it with your fabric. When you
remove it from the dryer, see if it's changed color.
>Can they be machine washed and air dried?
Yes, -- but you get more wrinkles. The dryer actually takes out some
of the wrinkles the washer puts in.
>Can they be hand washed and machine dried?
Why bother, unless it's a banner with red bits (that can run, no matter
what fabric it is...), then hand wash always.
>Can they be hand washed and drip dried?
>
>If they can only be dry cleaned, where are the period ticket stubs to prove
>it?
:-) I wouldn't bother dry cleaning it if you can wash it...
Dry cleaning doesn't remove the natural oils and sweat from the garment.
Only soap and water will do that.
> We are talking about both the material and then the finshed item.
>I would hate to destroy the lovely green velvet (54 inch wide closeout for
>$7.50 a yard and it's silver when turned and green viewed strait on) or
>reck the red velveteen.
OHHHH! You didn't mention that the red and the green go *together*!
You need to wash the dickens out of the individual colors of fabric, then
wash a square of each together in hot water (with a square of white as a
control) to see what happens. Dyes being what they are, there is no way
to tell without testing them first.
Good luck! Tell us how it comes out!
Slainte'--
Elizabeth/Jean
Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness.
lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing.
Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better
Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness.
nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please!
From: Gretchen Miller <grm+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Washing cotton velvetteen and velvets ???
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 13:17:06 -0500
Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Horace,
Try it on a small sample, but there should be no reason why you can't
wash velvet:
1. I'd advise hand washing, or machine washing on gentle. Warm or cold
water (essentially like you'd wash any delicate cotton fabric)
2. Air dry flat (like you'd dry a sweater), or hang it on the line.
DON"T wring it out! Chances are, if you do, it'll retain the creases.
3. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART ->>>> Get a nail board for ironing.
This is similar to a large wire brush, and is of primary importance for
ironing velvet. When you iron your velvet, put the fuzzy side down on
the nails, and iron the back. The nail board prevents the nap from
crushing.
Hope this helps!
toodles, margaret
From: lise at perth.DIALix.oz.au (Lise Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: velvet and velveteens
Date: 16 Feb 1994 22:45:19 +0800
Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Western Australia
Summary: dryclean after making and wearing
Keywords: washing, textiles
In response to the request from harold about washing velvet and velveteens
I personally think you can go to far in prewashing material. the idea is to a get some of the size or stuff out which makes the material more flexible, and b)
try and ensure that it won't shrink to much when you wash it.
with velvet and velveteens, whether silk, cotton or synthetic washinga the material will probably lead to problems with the nap,the thing whichgives it its
wonderful two colours. With silk velvets in particular it is important that the
material is handled as little as possible.Every fold and crease will show, every spot of water threatens to stain slightly. I had to amke a simple long skirt
for my sister's wedding in silk velvet. I had it stored around tube and then
laid it out and cut it into panels in one go. My other sister laid the panels
very gently over the backs of chairs and we sewed. At the end we steamed the
finished garment by hanging it in the bathroom while the shower was running.I
keep it clean by brushing with a soft clothes brush. It will eventually need
drycleaning. There are no period laundry tags because they wouldn't wash
velvet either, simply relying on brushing and airing.
Cotton velveteen may wash, although i haven't tried it. Again I have it
drycleaned _But_ if you want something that looks fairly sumptuous and
does wash, try corduroy. I make my daoughters dresses in pinwhale (very
fine stripes) corduroy, and Sir Snorri has a cloak of uncut corduroy ( no
stripes) and I fling the dresses in the washing machine with gay abandon. Warm
wash, cold rinse, air dry. simple.
Mistress Angharad of Chester.
From: lassman at Bldg_Dafoe.Lan1.UManitoba.CA
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Shrinking with cotton velvet/velveteen
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 19:59:37 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba
Lord Horace of Northshield wrote about shrinking cotton velvet or velveteen.
Having taken some textile courses and from years of experience, I belong to
the "throw the velvet in the washing machine and the dryer" school of cotton
velvet care. For pre-shrinking I tend to use hot water and thereafter wash
in warm. I've had a couple of pieces of garb that I pre-shrunk that way and
then cared for ever after and they've lasted beautifully. By standing by
the dryer and whisking the garb out the second the cycle finished, my garb
was dry and wrinkle free so I never had to worry about ironing. (By the
way, after testing a swatch for colourfastness and water spotting, I usually
treat silk the same way, using the cold water/delicate cycle of the washer
and the lowest temperature possible on the dryer. It's worked well on
several weights of silk, from almost sheer to pant-weight, and if I have
to iron at all, it's just touch-up work.)
The comment made in a previous post (sorry--I don't remember who said it)
about being very careful about the red velvet is very true--be very sure
that all the loose dye has been washed out before you combine it in the same
garment with the green, or you won't be very happy. The test swatch is also
a good idea.
A couple of tips for sewing the velvet.
1. If you can afford a needle board, get one. They look sort of like 5" x
12" (or thereabout) metal dog brushes, but are generally fairly
expensive. You use them when pressing the velvet, to avoid crushing the
pile. If you can't find/afford a needle board, you can cover your
ironing board with a piece of the velvet pile side up.
2. To avoid lines showing on the front of the fabric resulting from
pressing the seam allowances flat, cut strips from a file folder or a
brown paper grocery bag to put between the seam allowance and the body of
the garment. (Make sure the strips are wider than the widest part of
your iron.)
The second tip above is also recommended for wool.
Speaking of wool, when you're pressing wool, you should:
1. cover your ironing board with a large scrap of leftover wool (to keep a
nice finish on the completed garment);
2. never press directly on the wool (it makes it brittle)--use a damp piece
of 100% cotton (something without a woven or embossed pattern) as a
pressing cloth or steam heavily with a second scrap of leftover wool on
top of your fabric.
With regard to pre-shrinking wool, the best method for most wools is the
"London Shrink" method, which can be found in just about any tailoring
book. It sounds weird, but it really does work, and is better than taking
it to a dry cleaner.
Have fun, and good luck!
Gabriela dei Clementini
From: lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen)
Date: 22 Feb 1994 21:17:16 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
Greetings, all!
In article <lassman.6.2D6912A9 at bldg_dafoe.lan1.umanitoba.ca>,
<lassman at Bldg_Dafoe.Lan1.UManitoba.CA> wrote:
>Lord Horace of Northshield wrote about shrinking cotton velvet or velveteen.
>
>Having taken some textile courses and from years of experience, I belong to
>the "throw the velvet in the washing machine and the dryer" school of cotton
>velvet care. For pre-shrinking I tend to use hot water and thereafter wash
>in warm. I've had a couple of pieces of garb that I pre-shrunk that way and
>then cared for ever after and they've lasted beautifully. By standing by
>the dryer and whisking the garb out the second the cycle finished, my garb
>was dry and wrinkle free so I never had to worry about ironing. (By the
>way, after testing a swatch for colourfastness and water spotting, I usually
>treat silk the same way, using the cold water/delicate cycle of the washer
>and the lowest temperature possible on the dryer. It's worked well on
>several weights of silk, from almost sheer to pant-weight, and if I have
>to iron at all, it's just touch-up work.)
I thought about editing the previous, but I couldn't find anything that
could be snipped carefully...so....
About washing silk -- DON'T USE DETERGENT!!!!!!! You *can* wash silk in
the washing machine, and even dry it in the dryer (but I prefer to take it
out of the dryer while still damp to iron it), but use a gentle soap such
as Ivory Liquid (which has the same chemical content as Woolite, and about
half the price...information from my chemist aunt).
I had a lovely "washable" shantung-weave silk shirt. It was my favorite,
I wore it all the time. After a while, I noticed what looked like moth
holes, esp. around the seams. My mother's (then-since Laureled)
apprentice, Elizabeth Talbot (who has her degree from the Fashion
Institute of Technology), explained to me that the term "washable silk" is
misleading. Silk fibers (and wool for that matter) are broken down by the
alkali in regular detergent. (This was a while ago; I hope I remembered it
correctly...)
Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage
the silk.
It's best to wash the silk in warmish water; cold water won't allow the
body oils to break down and wash away.
You should wash silk soon after wearing, because the alkali in sweat will
break down the silk the same way detergent will. That can explain why
old sweat stains won't come out of silk...
Another note: Dry cleaning won't remove sweat and body oils from fabric.
Only soap and water will. Dry cleaning removes dirt, but not odors.
>The comment made in a previous post (sorry--I don't remember who said it)
>about being very careful about the red velvet is very true--be very sure
>that all the loose dye has been washed out before you combine it in the same
>garment with the green, or you won't be very happy. The test swatch is also
>a good idea.
Oh, that was me...I think...
About prewashing: if you want to check for shrinkage, cut a square (12"
works for me) of your fabric, whip the edges and wash it on hot. Measure
it, checking for shrinkage. Then dry it; measure again. That will show
the total shrinkage.
Happy sewing! Silk and cotton velveteen...two of my favorite things...
Slainte'--
Elizabeth/Jean
Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness.
lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing.
Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better
Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness.
nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please!
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: tabron at binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen)
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 21:41:27 GMT
In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor) writes:
>
>Greetings, all!
>[snip]
>It's best to wash the silk in warmish water; cold water won't allow the
>body oils to break down and wash away.
>
>You should wash silk soon after wearing, because the alkali in sweat will
>break down the silk the same way detergent will. That can explain why
>old sweat stains won't come out of silk...
>
>Another note: Dry cleaning won't remove sweat and body oils from fabric.
>Only soap and water will. Dry cleaning removes dirt, but not odors.
>[snip]
>Elizabeth/Jean
>
>Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness.
>lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing.
>Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better
>Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness.
>nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please!
A minor addition to Elizabeth's excellent post:
Dry cleaning won't break down sweat, because sweat is a water-based substance,
while dry-cleaning fluid is a petroleum-based substance (oil and water don't
mix, in fact they don't want anything to do with each other. :-) Likewise,
washing does not really _dissolve_ oils (though if the water is hot enough it
may break them up and carry them away -- or it may just set them into the
fabric fibers.) That's why you have to decide what stains you want out the
most, then roll the dice and make your choice. :-)
Raedwynne aet thaem Grenan Wuda
-----------
Judith Tabron
Dept. of English / Computing Center
Brandeis University
tabron at binah.cc.brandeis.edu
tabron at brandeis.bitnet
From: lecuyer at wam.umd.edu (CLIS library)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen)
Date: 26 Feb 1994 18:31:34 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, Jean Krevor <lyoness at panix.com> wrote:
>
>
>Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage
>the silk.
This is interesting. Woolite must have changed
its make-up in the last decade. I was told by
a professional costumer that Woolite was acidic
and could seriously damage stuff. Better to use Ivory, she said.
Hey but I'm not a chemist, I'm just a:
rabble rouser at large.
"Bad BoD, no oatcake." ;-)
Cathy/Kara
From: Beth.Appleton at f4229.n124.z1.fidonet.org (Beth Appleton)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Washing cotton velvet/een
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:07:50
Lady Elizabeth Camerona writes in response:
>Can they be hand washed and machine dried?
> Why bother, unless it's a banner with red bits (that
> can run, no matter what fabric it is...), then hand
> wash always.
Actually, I've found that what makes fabrics bleed
is sitting while wet. The way I hand-wash, it means
I get *more* bleed-over when I hand-wash than when I
machine-wash. The almost constant agitation keeps
the dye from settling in, so long as the item is
*promptly* removed from the washer and dried. When
I hand-wash, I usually let items soak, which gives
the errant dye a chance to soak in where it isn't
wanted.
Gwenllian CfM
* Origin: Herald's Point * Steppes/Ansteorra * 214-699-0057 (1:124/4229)
From: Beth.Appleton at f4229.n124.z1.fidonet.org (Beth Appleton)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Velvets & velveteen
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:08:44
Mistress Angharad of Chester writes:
> With velvet and velveteens, whether silk, cotton or
> synthetic, washing the material will probably lead to
> problems with the nap,the thing which gives it its
> wonderful two colours. With silk velvets in particular ...
Cotton velvets are immune to that problem. Both
cotton velvets and velveteens tend to be dense enough
that machine washing doesn't mar the nap. If there's a
question, wash a test square first. While the questor's
fabric is already bought, there is (was?) a wonderful
cotton velvet called Duchess Velvet which was specifically
machine-washable. My coat-of-plates is made out of the
stuff... (or was it matinee velvet?? Dain bramage...)
Rayon velvet, OTOH, is absolutely not machine washable.
The pile isn't dense enough, and it looks matted. I have
a coat which is, essentially, uncleanable. It's of rayon
velvet, which looks really nasty when washed, and it's
decorated with individual fake pearls, which dissolve
when dry-cleaned... Ah, the errors of youth... And, I
have proved both these statements by attempting to clean
this coat by both methods.
> There are no period laundry tags because they wouldn't
> wash velvet either, simply relying on brushing and airing.
Actually, I've read that they used to clean silks and
such with alcohol, wine lees to be specific.
> Cotton velveteen may wash, although I haven't tried it.
> Again, I have it drycleaned. _But_ if you want something
> that looks fairly sumptuous and does wash, try corduroy.
Cotton velveteen is simply a better made, denser piled
uncut corduroy. I say better made because most of the
uncut corduroys I've seen will have little fuzz spots where
the piles weren't quite trimmed completely. Velveteen
doesn't tend to have these spots.
Gwenllian Cwmystwyth
* Origin: Herald's Point * Steppes/Ansteorra * 214-699-0057 (1:124/4229)
From: Gretchen Miller <grm+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 15:29:28 -0500
Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
> In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, Jean Krevor <lyoness at panix.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage
> >the silk.
At some distant postrevel, I was told that baby shampoo was the best
thing you could use for washing silk, because the composition of silk
was similar to that of human hair. While I won't comment on the
validity of the explanation, I've used baby shampoo successfully on
silk ever since.
toodles, margaret
From: Sandy_Erickson at thequest.com (Sandy Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: washing fabrics
Date: 8 Mar 94 16:14:47 CDT
Organization: The Quest
I took a class on preserving needlework, the teacher a museum textile
person, told us about the soap that they use in their museum, (in Indiana,
but without checking notes I can't remember which one. Anyway she said
that they use a soap called Orvis. It was origionally used for horses,
believe it or not. You can find it in shops that deal in horse supplies,
You might have to say that it is to wash your dog. Don't know the ph but
she said that it didn't have any acid, I got some and it really is mild
and does a good job for needlework, One lady I know uses one Tbs. per
washing machine load and has for years. Her clothes look great. You also
can get small quantities in quilt stores. Any one else used this or know
more than me?
Sandy
From: robinec <robinec at cox-internet.com>
Date: January 24, 2005 8:00:43 PM CST
To: "bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org" <bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org>
Subject: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - was Of Linen and Gulf Wars
I have never had a problem washing or bleaching 100% linen. Over the years
I have washed with Tide, Purex and Arm&Hammer depending on my current taste
in laundry soap, and when my husbands shirts or armor are particularly
smelly, I have even thrown in Borax for good measure. Borax is a water
softening agent that helps the water and soap get between the fibers of the
fabric to help them do their job better. Vinegar can also help with smelly
linen and can be mixed with the Borax safely. Stains and smells generally
come out of linen easier than cotton.
If you are concerned about using bleach on it (which I have done with good
results) you can also wash it with natural bleaching agents like peroxide or
lemon juice and lay it in the sun to bleach (like our grandmothers did with
their fine linens) - this works wonderfully. I do this sometimes when a
wash with a weak bleach solution does not get out a stain, I apply spots of
lemon juice to the stains and lay it in the sun for several hours and
then throw it back in the wash for a good rinsing.
I find bleach destroys cotton sooner than linen, however I don't recommend
bleaching any fabric every time you wash, especially if it is not stained -
adding Borax to the wash or applying extra soap to your problem spots (like
armpits) works just as well. I use bleach as my backup plan, not my primary
attack and even then I use a weak solution like 1/2 a cup to a full load of
laundry, or by applying it directly to the stain (with a q-tip or the bleach
gel pen).
If you must bleach, use bleach that is non-chlorine and non-phosphorus
(phosphates makes whiter than white blotches in sunlight). Besides,
chlorine bleach is very bad to have in your home environment anyway and can
cause lots of respiratory problems. NEVER MIX CHLORINE BLEACH AND
VINEGAR - THIS CAN CREATE TOXIC CHLORIMINE GAS
See this website on dangerous household chemicals -
http://www.ems.org/household_cleaners/four.html
I am probably sensitive to this since my husband is allergic to some
bleaches (particularly the ones marketed as 'color safe').
Now we have all sorts of other anti-bacterial cleaners available on the
market so there are plenty of non-hazardous options.
As to the comfort of linen - if it is stiff when newly cleaned and dried -
throw some hair conditioner in the rinse cycle and it will come out just
fine! Softens it up a lot!
The linen is both warmer and cooler than cotton to wear because it wicks
moisture so well. My linen garments have worn as well over time and lasted
as long as my cotton garments.
The only downsides I have found with linen are that rust stains (from armor)
left on the linen will eventually eat a hole in the weave, if it is dyed
linen, you may want to wash it with like colors for a while because it can
bleed (use vinegar to lessen this) and finally, I prefer not to put it in
the dryer and I always wash on cold so I don't have to worry about shrinkage
(but that is true of cotton too).
For a regular wear (non-armor) chemise, I would use the lighter-weight
linen so it is not so bulky and heavy as the Judy weight.
-Robin (who loves linen for chemises and shirts)
on 1/23/05 8:18 AM, Amanda Shields at ashields at apple.com wrote:
> But when it comes to underpinnings, ummm, while linen is comfy and
> period, and all that, I hate washing it all the time, especially in
> laundry detergents made for cottons. Don't even think about bleaching
> it. Yes, I suppose I could hand wash it in my copious spare time, but
> then I remember I lack copious spare time. While linen is great for
> outerwear, I'll be French before I wear a chemise that is merely
> Febreezed instead of scrupulously clean. So, unless it's an A&S
> project, my smalls shall be made of nice, washable, bleachable cotton!
>
> Anna
From: robinec <robinec at cox-internet.com>
Date: January 24, 2005 10:49:35 PM CST
To: "bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org" <bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - was Of Linen and Gulf Wars
As someone so kindly pointed out to me, you also do not want to mix bleach
(a basic Ph) with ammonia or any other item that has an acid Ph. This
is very very true.
I wanted to specify Vinegar though because I was pointing out its odor
removing virtue and thought someone might try to mix the two in their
laundry all unknowing.
Please don't mis-understand my motives, I do use these products, I just
think we should be aware of how and when we use them!
-Robin
From: Louise Craig <lcraig at iname.com>
Date: January 25, 2005 8:18:57 AM CST
To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad <bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - bleach & vinegar
On the subject of Vinegar and Bleach, although you certainly don't want
to mix them together. You can use a diluted vinegar and water solution
as a rinse to neutralize bleach after you have washed something with
bleach. I usually run a second rinse by itself with about 1/4 to 1/2
cup of vinegar depending on the size of the amount of water.
When you use chlorine bleach on fabric, the bleach will continue to
work on the fabric, used often enough and strong enough it will weaken
the fabric.
So after using bleach, add a little vinegar to your second rinse cycle
(or rinse by hand) and this will neutralize the bleach and keep it from
weakening the fibers (linen or cotton).
For more information
http://frugalliving.about.com/cs/tips/qt/vinproperties.htm
Louise Craig
From: elizabeth at crouchet.com
Date: January 25, 2005 11:31:34 AM CST
To: bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org
Subject: RE: [Bryn-gwlad] Costuming help :) Linen
I find that even the stiff as a board linen, (unless is has been starched that way) will soften up nicely and be quite comfortable after exposure to about 5 or
10 minutes of body heat. I just go ahead and put it on.
My shirts are so stiff they can stand on their own if I line dry them, until I separate the sides so that I can put it on and that seems to begin the softening
process.
LInen also takes starch nicely. I often use a cold water starch solution brushed onto a collar or cuff then ironed to give me that period starched ruffle. This
leaves the rest of the garment all comfy. I would be surprised if it was not also done this way in period.
I wash all of my linen and only sometimes dry my shirts for convenience. It all lasts a whole lot longer and holds its color better if only line dried.
But machine washing is always fine. I can't wring out a as much water as the spin cycle can and the spin cycle does not put undue stress on the fibers.
Claire
On 25 Jan 2005 at 0:00, Nan Bradford-Reid wrote:
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/
>
> Great source for dyes (not natural dyes). You can top-dye that linen
> into a color that's period/desirable. You can also remove color
> that's too dark and either leave as is or dye it another color. Linen
> is sturdy and takes dye extremely well. You need to wash it several
> times before you dye it, though, since it comes with a buttload of
> finishing starches on it.
>
> After it is made up into your garment, it is now completely
> washable...but only put it in the dryer for a few minutes with a dryer
> sheet and then hang while still basically wet. smooth the wrinkles
> out by hand. This gets a period finish that's not all bouncy like it
> would be if you dried it all the way.
>
> Kate
<the end>