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beadwork-msg - 9/6/09

 

Medieval beadwork on clothing. Bead types. Bead sources.

 

NOTE: See also the files: beads-msg, clothing-msg, sewing-msg, glasswork-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

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From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: lace and beads

Date: 28 Jul 1994 21:01:22 GMT

Organization: University of California, Berkeley

 

DDuperault (dduperault at aol.com) wrote:

:      What about beadwork? I suspect beading is a victorian invention.

: Anybody got any hard evidence to the contrary?

 

I'm doing a small research project on the subject currently, expect to

see the full results, perhaps in a Compleat Anachronist, any year now ....

 

Certain types of beadwork were used in period, both for household items

and to decorate clothing. Some random examples:

 

"Beadwork" (Shire Publications #57) by Pamela Claburn shows on p.4 some

12th century German beaded panels used to decorate church vestments. The

designs have a familial similarity to those used at the same time for

Opus Anglicanum embroidery; the beads are sewn to a parchment backing in

rows that follow the lines of the design, similarly to how rows of

split-stitch do in embroidery.

 

A much larger example of this same technique (also German) can be found

in "The Art of Embroidery" by Marie Schuette and Sigrid

Mueller-Christensen (London: Thames & Hudson, 1964) in plate VIII. Here

again the beads are sewn onto a parchment backing in lines following the

designs, the whole then being sewn onto fabric (in this case, an altar

frontal).

 

This and similar embroidery books will show numerous examples of seed

pearls being used to outline embroidery designs on cloaks and other

garments. A set of vestments from the Holy Roman Empire dating to the

12th and early 13th centuries (figures 65-71 in the above book) show the

following:

 

A dalmatic cuff with a stylized floral motif outlined in seed pearls and

filled in with minute gold "bugle-beads", sewn down with a couching

technique. (The beads are about the same size as those in "liquid-silver"

necklaces.)

 

Cuffs on an alb with seed pearls picking out a strapwork pattern. (The

design also incorporates gemstones in both bezel and pronged settings.)

 

A pair of gloves with seed pearls used both to outline applied gemstones

and enamelled plaques and sewn randomly over the remaining area.

 

I've found refernces to 15th century French goldsmiths regulations that

forbid combining glass beads and semi-precious stones with pearls and

precious stones on the same garment -- a fairly good argument for the use

of the former.

 

Medieval beadwork is fascinating, but it's very different from modern

styles and techniques.

 

Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn

 

 

From: rich at birch.ims.disa.mil (Rich Bjorklund)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: lace and beads

Date: 29 Jul 1994 16:25:00 GMT

Organization: Computer Sciences Corp.

 

dduperault at aol.com (DDuperault) says:

>     I know lace is "late" period. Anyone know when and where (and on

>what) lace was first used in europe?

>     What about beadwork? I suspect beading is a victorian invention.

>Anybody got any hard evidence to the contrary?

>

>                                                     Avwye

 

The period export of fresh-water pearls from Scotland to France would

argue otherwise.  I also believe any of Janet Arnold's books on Elizabethan

clothing would show the use of beading in period.  

 

Elizabeth I _was_ pre-Victorian last time I checked.  ;-)

 

-Rich "Bjorn" Bjorklund

Stovik, Atlantia / Bowie, MD.

 

 

From: BROWNTR.ntrprs at navair.navy.MIL (BROWNTR)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Beading in Period

Date: 1 Aug 1994 09:54:30 -0400

 

dduperault at aol.com (DDuperault) says:

>     I know lace is "late" period. Anyone know when and where (and on

>what) lace was first used in europe?

>     What about beadwork? I suspect beading is a victorian invention.

>Anybody got any hard evidence to the contrary?

>

>                                                     Avwye

 

   If by beading, you mean pictorial embroidery using small

glass beads (as opposed to pearls and semi-precious stones), it

is most certainly period.  My apprentice Lady Elspeth will be

giving a class at Pennsic on "13th Century Beadwork from

Saxony," <barely subtle plug> and will show photos of extant

examples. Pearls (fresh and salt-water) and semi-precious stones

were also used both to form pictures and as embellishment.

   The case for beadwork *weaving* in the SCA period is on much

shakier ground, as is the use of iridescent beads to embroider

cute li'l dragons and pudgy unicorns.

   Bjorn didn't mention it (Hi BJ!) but his wife Lady Therasa is

downright scary with pearls and beads!  (How many *thousands* of

stones did she put on that black gown?!)

 

-- Auntie Signy

home: AuntieS at aol.com   ofc: BROWNTR.NTRPRS at NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL

 

 

From: habura at vccnw01.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: lace and beads

Date: 28 Jul 1994 16:06:17 GMT

Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY

 

Avwye asks whether anyone has evidence for beading in Period.

 

You bet your buttons I do! Much depends, of course, on the time period

you're targeting. I'll discuss my area of expertise, which is England and

France, 13th and 14th centuries.

 

Pearls: A biggie. You understand, a lot of 14th c. high-fashion clothing was

heavily embroidered, and the job definition of "embroiderer" was basically

"person who sews ornament onto fabric". Large pearls were incorporated

into designs, frequently as something like the acorns of embroidered

oaks. (Blanche of Castile had an embroidered hat with pictures of children

beating down pearl acorns from trees, with gold boars eating the acorns.)

Smaller pearls were used for outlining large motifs, and also were sewn

down over loose-stitched white silk grounds to make things like griffins

and estoiles. If you plan to do this, use pearls with a maximum size of

about 2.5 mm; I did an estoile with pearls this size, and at 2" in height,

it's just barely authentic-looking. Many of the surviving examples show

pearls the size of seed-beads. (In fact, I'm resorting to glass pearlized

seed-beads for this application, because I can only find artificial

"pearls" is sizes >2 mm.)

 

Other beads, gems, and findings: If you consider sewing metal ornaments

to fabric "beading", boy, are you in luck! Not only are they period, in

an astounding variety of shapes (I can document mussel shells, acorns,

stars, circular plates with portraits on them, leaves, and so on), they're

also available in fine craft stores everywhere. They're pricey, though;

the cheapest I've gotten them is 20 cents each--and they should be used

to cover an entire garment. Glass discs were sometimes used for the eyes

of beasts. Enameled ornaments were used as decoration too, sometimes set

off by gold embroidery. (Philippa of Hainault had a "ghita" of this type.)

 

OK, I'll stop here---this could become a five-page post if I let myself go.

However, if you want to discuss this further, email me, or stop by

my class at Pennsic.

 

Alison MacDermot

*Ex Ungue Leonem*

 

 

From: 0003900943 at mcimail.COM (Marla Lecin)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: [GARB] Beaded mottos on sleeves?

Date: 11 Dec 1994 10:36:17 -0500

Organization: The Internet

 

Greetings, from Jessa d' Avondale!

 

Several years ago, some good lady posted a query for information on the

appearance of beaded mottoes on the cuffs of Italian Ren sleeves.

 

No reply was ever posted on the Rialto, but I, too, would be interested in

this information.  The specific portrait which she referred to was " Lady at

a Window", by Fra Filippo Lippi (circa 1450). (This is my favorite Ren

portrait of all, and I particularly enjoy visiting with "her" in the Met in

NYC!)

 

I do not have the original message handy, but is the poster still around, or

does anyone else have information on this particular practice?

 

Many thanks,

 

Jessa

mlecin at mcicmail.com

 

 

From: Sharon Saroff <sindara at moose.erie.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: info on jewelry,beadw

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 17:39:50 -0500

Organization: ErieNet

 

To all who wish a copy of my beadwork resource list:

 

The list is available for copy cost (about 60 cents) and a SASE (be

sure to send an 8 1/2 by 11 manila envelope).  At present there are about

200 references on the list and growing. (I have to update it again

because I found some more resources)  Send to address below if you want

the list.

 

If you wish resources for specific information, I will be more than happy

to provide those specific titles.  Just e-mail me a message at

Sindara at moose.erie.net.  I read my mail daily.

 

Send all postal snail correspondences to:

        Sharon R. Saroff

        239 Scott Street, 1st floor

        Erie, PA. 16508

 

In Service of the Dream,

Sindara

 

 

From: habura at vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: needle punch embroidery

Date: 20 Jul 1995 13:48:54 GMT

Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute

 

For Elizabeth: I may be about to make you a happy person. If you don't

mind using tiny pearls instead of seed beads, there's a considerable

amount of documentation for designs made from beads on clothing.

 

Probably the most accessible piece is the "Chichester" or "Butler-Bowden"

cope, a 14th c. English work. There's a color photo of it in Staniland's

_Medieval Craftsmen: The Embroiderers_, but there's a better black-and-

white closeup in Christie's _English Medieval Embroidery_. (I can get

exact page cites if you need them, but my notes are at home, and I'm not.)

The basic technique is to lay down the shape you want with white silk

thread, and then cover the entire design with seed pearls. Some other

English pieces of the same era show evidence of having been worked in

this way, in that the white embroidery is still there, as are the threads

left when the pearls were snipped off.

 

I have one piece of visual evidence for the use of this kind of embroidery

on secular clothing from the 14th c., and a few that are later. The

painting _St. Ursula and her Virgins_ (don't recall the artist; I'll find

it for you if you want) shows one of the virgins wearing a purple cotehardie,

the torso of which is covered with phoenixes. Having examined a plate of

the painting closely, I believe that the phoenixes are worked in pearls and

red (silk?) embroidery. One piece of 16th c. evidence is a portrait of

a German count, who is wearing a doublet embroidered with pearl crescent moons.

 

There's also some evidence from inventories. Mary Stella Newton (in her

_Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_) quotes a number of Great Wardrobe

inventories that list pearl-embroidered items, usually hats or hoods but

sometimes mantles as well. For example the Dauphin of France had a hat worked

with pearl leopards holding lozenges with his arms.

 

I apologize for the half-citations of my sources; unfortunately, I'm working

from memory here. Drop me a line if you'd like proper documentation.

 

Hope this helps...

 

Alison MacDermot

*Ex Ungue Leonem*

 

 

From: sindara at pobox.com (Sharon R. Saroff)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: Thu, 02 May 1996 13:00:31 GMT

 

>-- [ From: Patricia M. Hefner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

>

>OK, I know Byzantine garb has tons of beadwork on it. For those of you

>who do Byzantine garb, what are your favorite beads to sew onto it? I

>know they used alot of pearls. What else? ---Isabelle (still greedily

>eyeing those bead containers)

 

I have seen glass beads, gold and silver. Certain semi-precious stone

were quite period. Blue was a popular color of bead.

 

Sindara

 

 

From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Early period Bead Work?!?!?

Date: 18 Jul 1996 02:28:20 GMT

Organization: University of California, Berkeley

 

Gordon Bulmer (bulmerg at sos.pwgsc.gc.ca) wrote:

: Good Gentles, I know that the use of embroidery, and bead work goes back

: along way, but most of the examples I have been able to lay my hands on are

: from later period then I am looking for.  Does anyone have documentation of

: early period use of bead work on garments (around 1150 would be good).  

 

: I was commissioned some time ago to work a friends coat of arms on the chest

: of a wool over tunic, with floss, pearls and these wonderfull gold beads that

: look just like amber.  The tunic turned out wonderful and now I would like

: to show it off a little but have no concrete documentation for such a

: treatment. Talk about getting the cart in front of the horse <grin>.

 

Whether the examples I can provide would be applicable to the project at

hand depends entirely on what you did with that floss, pearls, and beads.

For the 12th century, the best exemplars for decoration of combined

embroidery and pearls/beads are the coronation garments associated with

the Holy Roman Emperors. The piece that most often turns up in history of

costume books is a half-circular cloak with a pattern of tigers attacking

camels done in couched gold thread with outlines of double rows of pearls.

Another piece has cuffs with a palmetto design of miniscule couched gold

tubular beads, again with the pattern outlined with pearls. Another

garment has cuffs with interlace designs done in pearls and couched gold,

with cabochon gems in metal settings between the bands of interlace. The

cloak is probably the best example of a pictorial design.

 

Whether or not these pieces can be used to justify your project will

depend to a very large extent on what sort of embroidery you used and how

the stones were used in the design.

 

Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn

 

 

From: Wayne Anderson <wander at hooked.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 9 May 1996 21:24:16 GMT

 

From my studies of later period Russian costuming, which descended from Byzantine, it seems that mother of pearl chips were often used. These give a more textured appearance than pearls.  These and other semi-precious stones such as amythest, malachite, tiger eye, onyx, garnet, etc., are available from many suppliers and, while not dirt-cheap, are certainly affordable for a special costume.  If you want to use  glass or plastic beads andlarger, sew-on jewels, avoid the faceted ones and stick to round beads and cabochon jewels. I would sew beads on a test swatch and wash or dry clean the sample to make sure your beads can take it before making the garb.

 

Omargo (Maudelyn of Bryn Aur  (that's right, I'm back!))

 

 

From: ddfr at best.com (David Friedman)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 10 May 1996 01:21:12 GMT

 

Wayne Anderson <wander at hooked.net> wrote:

>These and other

>semi-precious stones such as amythest, malachite, tiger eye, onyx, garnet,

>etc., are available from many suppliers and, while not dirt-cheap, are

>certainly affordable for a special costume.

 

Of these, tiger eye is probably out of period. Amethyst seems to have been

considerably more expensive relative to other stones in period than it is

now, so you might want to use it if you are trying to look rich, not if

you are trying not to.

 

David/Cariadoc

--

ddfr at best.com

 

 

From: Wulf & Teddi <wulfgard at erols.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 11 May 1996 13:56:17 GMT

Organization: Clan Wulfgard

 

Ann Laurel Kopchik <amergina+ at CMU.EDU> wrote:

>What sort of beadwork was used on Byzantine garb? I've done some

>research, and as far as I can tell, most of the beadwork was on trim.

>Where beads used anywhere else on byzantine garb?

>

>-Anwen

>

>Ann Kopchik

>Ann is amergina+ at cmu.edu - http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/~amergina

 

Greetings,

To the best of my knowledge there are monastary records of the time

stating that the nobility had garments so heavily laden with gems and

beads that it was impossible for them to stand and move about without

assistance. Now we have to remember that most monks felt oppressed by

some of the nobility and have a long history of possible slandering of

some nobles,(some accounts of Theodora's life for example), but in

general we should be able to assume that if even 10% was true that was a

lot of beading. "Too much is never enough."

 

Thats why I love them so!!!!

 

Lady Theodora Quennell

 

 

From: excmairi at aol.com (EXCMairi)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 14 May 1996 14:48:27 -0400

 

Check out the Medieval Craftsmen series (I don't have the other info. on

me at the moment...) - the one on embroidery/embroiderers. There is a

photo of byzantine dalmatica cuffs (later period byz.) - that is covered

in a vine-scroll pattern done in gold bugle beads (the long, thin ones).

Cool!

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: shafer at ferhino.dfrc.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer)

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Organization: NASA Dryden Flight Research Center, Edwards CA

Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 19:01:11 GMT

 

On 10 May 1996 01:21:12 GMT, ddfr at best.com (David Friedman) said:

C> Of these, tiger eye is probably out of period. Amethyst seems to

C> have been considerably more expensive relative to other stones in

C> period than it is now, so you might want to use it if you are

C> trying to look rich, not if you are trying not to.

 

Amethyst was extremely rare until it was found in Brazil in vast

quantities.  This, of course, drove the price down tremendously.

As a result, it went from being a precious gem to being semi-precious,

but this change was post-Period.

--

Mary Shafer               NASA Dryden Flight Research Center, Edwards, CA

SR-71 Flying Qualities Lead Engineer     Of course I don't speak for NASA

shafer at ferhino.dfrc.nasa.gov                              DoD #362 KotFR  

URL http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/People/Shafer/mary.html

 

 

From: ddfr at best.com (David Friedman)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 15 May 1996 05:11:28 GMT

 

I wrote:

> C> Of these, tiger eye is probably out of period. Amethyst seems to

> C> have been considerably more expensive relative to other stones in

> C> period than it is now, so you might want to use it if you are

> C> trying to look rich, not if you are trying not to.

 

Mary Shafer wrote:

> Amethyst was extremely rare until it was found in Brazil in vast

> quantities.  This, of course, drove the price down tremendously.

> As a result, it went from being a precious gem to being semi-precious,

> but this change was post-Period.

 

1. I do not believe Amethyst appears in the lists of precious stones in

period (i.e. where people are distinguishing precious from other). I am

pretty sure that Cellini's list is like ours--diamond, emerald, ruby,

sapphire.

 

2. While I am not certain, I think the original price drop was due to

discoveries in Russia, with Brazil later.

 

David/Cariadoc

 

 

From: parkerd at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA (Diana Parker)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: 15 May 1996 14:18:13 -0400

Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

 

David Friedman <ddfr at best.com> wrote:

>Mary Shafer wrote:

>> Amethyst was extremely rare until it was found in Brazil in vast

>> quantities.  This, of course, drove the price down tremendously.

>> As a result, it went from being a precious gem to being semi-precious,

>> but this change was post-Period.

 

>2. While I am not certain, I think the original price drop was due to

>discoveries in Russia, with Brazil later.

 

From Guide to Gems and Precious Stones (Cipriani&Borelli, 0-671-60430-9)

 

"OCCURRENCE: The finest amethyests come (in great quantities) from Brazil

and neighbouring Uraguay, from the the United States, Madagascar, and the

Soviet Union, Indian, Australia, South Africa, and many other countries."

"VALUE: A few centuries ago, deep-colored amethyst was highly prized.  

Its value fell greatly with the discovery of the large Brazilian and

Uruguayan deposits at the end of the nineteenth century. Now relegated

to the status of a secondary gem, its value is quite low."

 

From the same reference, " The violet, purple to almost pink variety of

quartz is called amethyst, an ancient name derived from the Greek

"Amethystos", meaning "not drunken," as it was believed to protect those

who wore it from drunkeness.  It is the most highly prized variety of

quartz."

 

cheers

Tabitha

--

Diana Parker           parkerd at mcmaster.ca     (905) 525-9140 (x24282)

CUC - 201               Security Services       McMaster University

 

 

From: sindara at pobox.com (Sharon R. Saroff)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:27:46 GMT

 

I read a description of a Russian embroidery stitch called Placing

which is very strong. It is a second cousin of Couching, but instead

of putting a plain stitch between each bead you place a knot. Though

it takes practice to do this stitich, once mastered those beads aren't

going anywhere.

 

SIndara

 

 

From: sindara at pobox.com (Sharon R. Saroff)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:56:20 GMT

 

I find it hard that Amethyst was so rare during our time period. I

have been researching the folklore of gems for the last four years and

have seen numerous reference to the amethyst for curing or dealing

with various ailments. Also I have found mention of Cat's Eye in

period under the name of crysoberyl. It is a very prominent stone to

the Hindu's and other peoples who dwell in that part of the world.

 

Sindara

 

 

From: sindara at pobox.com (Sharon R. Saroff)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:56:22 GMT

 

Another heavily used type of bead was made of fresh water pearl which

was very abundant in the various rivers and streams. I have seen

Dalmatica cuffs with seed pearls in knotwork, vinework, and flower

patterns. There is a great book called A Pictorial History of

Embroidery that has a lot of pictures of period bead embroidery.

 

Sindara

 

 

From: Sadira bint Raya al-Asiri <robinson at avana.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca,

Subject: Beadwork on Middle Eastern Garb

Date: Wed, 08 May 96 17:34:57 PDT

Organization: Avana Communications Corp.

 

I didn't see my last post on the subject, so I guess it got lost in

cyberspace. Here it is again, for those who care, and don't:

 

===========================================================================

 

I have just made a major documentation run on the local university (looking

for embroidery, primarily but also beads and beadwork). A few tidbits:

 

--Oldest extant embroidery (satin and stem stitch) is on a funerary shirt for

King Tutankhamen, dated roughly 1400 BC

 

--Maghrebi style of embroidery first used 600-700 AD in Arabia and North

Africa (Morocco)--largely geometric patterns, highly elaborate,designs similar

 

to S. Italian and Balkan motifs, Indistinguishable from Aegean (Naxos),

Palestinian designs; used stem stitch, thick cross stitch, satin stitch, split

 

satin, chain

 

--Predominant color red, predominant ground color indigo, black, dark green,

ground cloth linen or cotton, embroidery material silk and metal, rarely

cotton

 

--What was embroidered: anything that stood still and that people might

see--pants, coats, shirts, hankies, turban covers, shoes, scabbards, quivers,

saddles, animal hangings, tents, bags, etc.

 

--Where was it embroidered: anywhere people might see it--you don't embroider

what will be covered by something else (except for thawbs)

 

--Designs: If it is on an oriental carpet, it is fair game for embroidery--the

 

motifs and patterns were used for both and were often village or tribal

property

 

and now....

 

BEADS!!  SEED BEADS ARE PERIOD!!  Very small beads were first produced in

Pharaonic Egypt, but glass beads of 1-3 mm size were being produced in Arabia

from 700 to 1400 AD, when the Mongols invaded, and glass beadmaking moved to

Venice, which became famous for seed beads about 100 years later.

 

Now I have to document putting the damn things on clothes--altho I found

PRIMARY DOCUMENTATION of a complete set of Turkish woman's clothes which was

elaborately beaded--1545, Topkapi Saray museum.

 

Sources:  Harris, Textiles, 5000 years

          Taylor, Ottoman Embroidery

          Dubin, The History of Beads

          Trilling, Aegean Crossroads  

 

==============================================================================

 

If I'm repeating myself, sorry. If you'd like an outline of ME embroidery and

a bibliography, let me know and I will e-mail it.

 

In service to the Furtherment of Things Middle Eastern,

 

Sayyida Sadira bint Raya al-Asiri

 

 

Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 19:36:34 EDT

From: tourdion at juno.com

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Beadwork

 

<snip>

 

>       What are you meaning exactly by "beading"? They certainly did

>sew beads on clothing, especially in late period, and they did wear

>necklaces of glass beads durring early period--especially the Norse. But

>oddly enough, although the Italians in particular made a lot of

wonderful >glass beads, they *don't* seem to have worn them! They were

made for trading >and seem to have been reguarded as tacky, primative

things.... Silly people!

 

<snip>

 

Ah, beadwork! One of my favorite subjects! I have found some

splendiferous pictures of 13th century Saxony beadwork done on parchment

and appliqued onto fabric used in church vestments. My first find came

from one of those Shire booklets on beadwork. It pertains mostly to

Victorian era stuff, but there is a marvelous strip of beadwork that

consists of saint figures. There are also more examples in a book called

Glasperlen by Edith Holm. As you can guess by the title, it's in German

but don't let that intimidate you. My German consists of everything I

learned from watching Hogan's Heroes and I still got a lot out of the

book. Hope this is useful.

Elspeth nic Cormac

Meridies

 

 

Date: Wed, 4 Jun 97 19:57:48 -0500

From: Irene leNoir <irene at ici.net>

To: "sca-arts" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Looking for documention on period seed beads

 

Others have already pointed out citations for seed beads being period.

 

To the best of my knowledge, loomed beadwork is not period for Mediaeval Europe.

 

I do, however, have documentation for "peyote" style beadwork (also

occasionally known as twill beadwork) if you are interested.

________________________________

Jessica I. Clark

SCA: Baroness Ir=E8ne leNoir

jessica at ici.net or irene at ici.net

 

 

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:27:10 -0400 (EDT)

From: Varju at aol.com

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Beads

 

There are a number of books on the history of beads that I been told are

excellent.  The only one i can remember off hand at this point is:

 

_Bead Embroidery_ by Joan Edwards

 

I have not read this book but I have heard it is very good.

 

Noemi

varj at aol.com

 

 

From: Rebekah & Chip <rinman at ucsd.edu>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: period jewel fastening

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 22:55:56 -0700

Organization: University of California at San Diego

 

Isabelle de Foix queried:

 

> Does anybody know how they fastened all of those jewels on late period

> court garb? I once read that somebody was always following Queen

> Elizabeth I, picking up the jewels that fell off of her dress. Was the

> same method used throughout Western Europe or were different techniques

> employed? I *don't* think they sewed those things on!

 

The pearls on (at least late) Byzantine court (14th/15th century) attire

were, in fact, sewn on.  There are some beautiful close up color plates

of this work in a book called:

 

        Byzantine Art in the Collections of Soviet Museums

        Alisa V. Bank

        Leningrad: Aurora 1977

 

The pearls are drilled, the hole is parallel to the cloth.

 

The only stones I've seen appear to have been set in gold which wraps up

from the bottom forming a lip around the bottom of the stone.  These

photographs were not close enough for good detail, however, so I can

only call this speculation.

 

Bardas Xiphias,

Calafia, Caid

 

Chip, rinman at ucsd.edu

 

 

From: tjustus at sprynet.com (T Justus)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: period jewel fastening

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 07:09:20 GMT

 

>Does anybody know how they fastened all of those jewels on late period

>court garb? I once read that somebody was always following Queen

>Elizabeth I, picking up the jewels that fell off of her dress. Was the

>same method used throughout Western Europe or were different techniques

>employed? I *don't* think they sewed those things on!

 

The short answer: Yes, the jewels were sewn on.

 

The longer answer: According to Janet Arnold, in an essay 'Sweet

England's Jewels'  in _Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the

Rennaissance, 1500-1630_ ( ed. Anna Somers Cocks, Debrett's Peerage

Ltd., 1980)  small jewels were sewn onto the garment. Single jewels

were pinned on (with a separate straight pin). Because pins could work

loose and jewels be lost as added security a ribbon would be tied over

the pin (seen toward the end of the 16th c). Brooches were jewels with

integral pins on the back. Jewels were often removed from one garment

and sewn on a new one, sometimes in combination with other jewels.

Occasionally a girdle (belt of linked units) was broken up so the

jewels could be sewn on individually. Gems were always in a metal

setting. The only exception to this rule I've seen are pearls, which

could be drilled and sewn on individually. Common designs for a jewel

would be a setting 'rose-fashioned' with a central stone surrounded by

other stones, petal-wise. A 'cinque' is a central stone surrounded by

four stones. (Cinq-- French for five.)  

   Yes, this sort of clothing was labor intensive. Cost of labor and

materials was not a concern if one was Queen. Labor was cheap.  The

cost of the tailor was a small fraction of the cost of the materials.

In 1559, the price of fabric for a kirtle for a minor noblewoman

ranged from 30 shillings (3 yds black damask) to 3 pounds (3 yds

wrought russet velvet) while the labor costs for making a kirtle was 2

to 4 shillings. ('The Clothes of Thomasine Petrie 1555-1559' by Anne

Buck, 'Costume' #24, 1990) At the other end of the social scale, for a

Welsh servant in the late 16th c the wool for two petticoats cost 3

shillings 6 pence, while the making of the petticoats cost 4 pence.

('Clothing given to a Servant of the Late Sixteenth Century in Wales'

by Ilid Anthony, 'Costume' #14, 1980)  Jewels were quite expensive.

Thomasine Petrie had 15 white enamel gold buttons that cost 1 pound 7

shillings for the materials, and 12 shillings 6 pence for the labor.

The most extravagant thing the Welsh maid Elin had was a girdle of

silk, which cost 18 shillings.

   I see no reason to think that jewel attachment methods were any

different in any of the other countries of Western Europe in the 16th

century.

 

Tracy Justus  AKA Clare de Crecy

 

 

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 22:33:24 -0700

From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Shisha Mirrors

 

<snip>

And for those interested in beads, I happened to stumble across:

http://www.mcs.net/~simone/beadfairies.html

 

Which is a HUGE site and has a bead FAQ with lots and lots of source

lists for those interested in beads. ;)

 

ciorstan

 

 

Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 19:53:31 -0500

From: Roberta R Comstock <froggestow at juno.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Folkwear Patterns

 

On Sat, 24 Jul 1999 01:49:15 EDT <Phefner at aol.com> writes:

<<< They come with embroidery patterns, but I've never done embroidery aside

from a smattering of backstitch. I tried learning chain stitch and that thing

drove me nuts for weeks. I'd better learn this stuff or else......could I

get away with rocaille beads? That could save me a few headaches.

 

Isabelle >>>

 

Rocaille beads, the seed beeds with the mirror finish inside that makes

them glittery, are post period.  The silver lining is the same technique

used in making modern mirrors.  It was not known in the Renaissance.  I

don't have a reference, but believe it was discovered in the 18th

century.

 

Hertha

 

 

Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 21:11:33 -0500

From: Roberta R Comstock <froggestow at juno.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Folkwear Patterns

 

On Sun, 1 Aug 1999 15:58:42 EDT <Phefner at aol.com> writes:

>I'm not talking about the beads with the silvery insides--if I'm not

>mistaken, those are bugle beads. "Rocaille" is French for "little rock" and

>they're just colored glass beads. They do come in crystal, but they don't

>refract that much light because they don't have that silvery inside.

>They're plain glass.

>

>Isabelle

 

In my experience the term rocaille is for the seed beads with mirrored

insides.  The elongated ones, whether mirrored or plain are bugle beads.

Plain glass seed beeds should work fine.  I know that there were jet

beads in period (Black, carved from a coal-like substance), and lots of

little seed pearls, gold and silver beads plus flat gold and silver

sequins.  One of the merchants at pennsic used to sell these, but I don't

remember who.

 

Another option for covering a lot of ground in a hurry is couching with

gold braid in swirling curves and vine-like patterns. This goes much

faster than either embroidery or beading.  It can also be effectively

combined with beading, by placing your beads to represent flowers, seeds,

berries, or bunches of grapes.  Leaves could be addes in applique.

 

Hertha

 

 

From: Catrin ferch Maelgwn <ladycatrin at gmail.com>

Date: August 4, 2009 12:08:33 PM CDT

To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO sources for beadwork on garments

 

You might try this site:

 

http://www.medievalbeads.com/ - lots of good stuff on the lefthand sidebar under "research images."

 

-Catrin ferch Maelgwn

 

On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 11:00 AM, Castellana Donea <

castellana.donea at yahoo.com> wrote:

<<< I am trying to find sources and examples on beaded garments (Western Europe 1200-1500) If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appriciate any help.

 

Lady Castellana Donea >>>

 

 

From: Monalee R Kendall <monaleekr at gmail.com>

Date: August 5, 2009 10:12:18 AM CDT

To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] ISO sources for beadwork on garments

 

There are also some examples in the embroidery book in the Medieval Craftmen

series and in "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince" book.

 

Genevieve

 

On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 11:00 AM, Castellana Donea <

castellana.donea at yahoo.com> wrote:

<<< I am trying to find sources and examples on beaded garments (Western Europe

1200-1500) If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appriciate any help.

 

Lady Castellana Donea >>>

 

<the end>



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