sewing-msg – 4/8/08
Sewing ideas and stitches. Helpful ideas for those new to sewing.
NOTE: See also the files: sergers-msg, sewng-machnes-msg, sewing-tables-msg, sewing-tools-msg, washing-msg, linen-msg, velvet-msg, silk-msg, textiles-msg, cotton-art.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: PRIEST at vaxsar.vassar.EDU (THORA SHARPTOOTH)
Date: 2 Dec 91 13:37:00 GMT
Organization: The Internet
Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto, and especially Joshua, from Thora Sharptooth,
greeting!
My specialty is Viking and early (i.e., pre-1066) period, so this may not be of
use to you later period folk, but here's what I know about early period seams
and seam finishings. Most of this information is drawn from the excavations at
Jorvik and Hedeby, because the findings from them have been carefully analyzed
and comprehensively published in the last decade. As it happens, this is the
research in which I am presently engaged, so forgive me if I blather....
A wide variety of seams and seam finishings were used in the Viking Age. Most
garments were very carefully and neatly sewn and finished, frequently with
tailoring details that are invisible from the outside. At Birka many seams
were reinforced at the cut edges by tiny sewn-down braided cords. But to
answer Joshua's questions more specifically:
>1) right-sides-together, sew near the edge, spread apart
Yes, with one refinement. Generally the flat parts would also be sewn down to
the rest of the garment, with either a hem or an overcast stitch. This
strengthens the garment as well as the seam.
>2)French seams
Yes. From the site of Hedeby in Denmark we have an example of "French seams"
on wool in the tenth century. (Right sides together, sew closely to the edge;
turn inside-out and sew farther back from the edge, enclosing the first seam in
a little tube. Press to one side.)
>3)flat-felled seams
Yes. From the site of Jorvik (Viking Age York) there is evidence of
flat-felled seams of several varieties, also in the ninth, tenth, and early
eleventh centuries. Flat-felling is the seam finishing most likely to appear
on linen from this site, leading one researcher to suggest that it was typical
for use on underwear.
>4)right-side to wrong-side, overlapping by 3/4" or so
Yes; see below. Both Hedeby and Jorvik yield many sorts of seams wherein the
wrong side of one piece and the right side of another are sewn together.
>Same as 4), but then rolled over and sewed down again to form a sort of
flat-fell
Again, the raw edges (or selvedges) of seams constructed in this way were
generally sewn down.
>6)etc.
Generally speaking, running stitch was used for the initial line of sewing on a
finished seam. I have not yet found documentation for back-stitch, which is
the stitch with which most people are taught to hand-sew seams. Also, when I
get home I'll look up the eighth century Coptic tunic article I have on file
and see what stitches were used to construct it; if there's anything new or
different there, I'll post it.
I'm glad you didn't ask about hems--there are about two dozen variations! ;>
I apologize for not being able to footnote this properly, but my sources are at
home. Generally, they are Agnes Geijer's BIRKA II, Inga Hagg's book on the
finds at Hedeby harbour, and Penelope Walton's TEXTILES, CORDAGE, AND RAW FIBRE
FROM 16-22 COPPERGATE (Archaeology of York series). As always, anyone who
wants sources or who is just generally interested in this is encouraged to drop
me a line.
*****************************************************************************
Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth
Poughkeepsie, NY Frosted Hills
priest at vassar.edu East Kingdom
*****************************************************************************
From: PRIEST at vaxsar.vassar.EDU (THORA SHARPTOOTH)
Date: 3 Dec 91 03:25:00 GMT
Organization: The Internet
Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto from Thora Sharptooth, greeting!
Sorry, I caught this mistake too late to correct it before it was posted:
>>2)French seams
>
>Yes. From the site of Hedeby in Denmark we have an example of "French seams"
>on wool in the tenth century. (Right sides together, sew closely to the edge;
^^^^^
>turn inside-out and sew farther back from the edge, enclosing the first seam in
>a little tube. Press to one side.)
That should be, "WRONG sides together."
While I'm here, here's a report on the Coptic tunic seams from the eighth
century: flat-felled, on a linen tunic with wool trimmings of several sorts.
And here are the sources.
Geijer, Agnes. DIE TEXTILFUNDE AUS DEN GRABERN, Vol. II of BIRKA:
UNTERSUCHUNGEN UND STUDIEN. Uppsala: Kungl. Vitterhets Historie och
Antikvitets Akadamien, 1938.
Hagg, Inga. DIE TEXTILFUNDE AUS DEM HAFEN VON HAITHABU, Vol. 20 of BERICHTE
UBER DIE AUSGRABUNGEN IN HAITHABU. Neumunster: Karl Wachholz Verlag,
1984.
Marko, Ksynia, and Dobbie, Margaret. "The Conservation of an Eighth Century
A.D. Sleeveless Coptic Tunic," STUDIES IN CONSERVATION 27 (1982), pp.
154-160.
Walton, Penelope. TEXTILES, CORDAGE AND RAW FIBRE FROM 16-22 COPPERGATE, Vol.
17, Fascicule 5, of THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF YORK. Dorchester: The Council
for British Archaeology and The Dorset Press, 1989.
*****************************************************************************
Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth
Poughkeepsie, NY Frosted Hills
priest at vassar.edu East Kingdom
*****************************************************************************
From: ck290 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chandra L. Morgan-Henley)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: tablet weaving info needed.
Date: 27 Sep 1993 21:30:06 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
I don't weave, but I have a comment about Fray-Check...
I have attempted to use it on both finely and not-so-finely
woven materials. It works best on fine, tight weaves such as
satins and (the dreaded OOP) taffeta. Also, despite claims on
the label, it *does* wash out after a few washings -- and dry
cleaning will remove it on the first go-round.
OTOH, it *does* prevent satin, etc., from fraying while you
are working on it. But be sure to lay the fabric on several
layers of newspaper when applying the stuff, and expect color
to leach from the fabric into the newspaper (the fabric will
also stick to the newspaper when the Fray-Check dries, but can
be pulled off easily with no transference of newspaper or ink
to the fabric) -- the dye in the fabric will also color your
hands if you handle it while the Fray-Check is wet.
In Service, even when it's distinctly OOP,
Cara The Unbalanced
--
Chandra L. Morgan-Henley
ck290 at Cleveland.Freenet.Edu
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: garb sewn with sergers
From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honur Horne-Jaruk)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 93 20:11:41 EST
Unto Amethysta(and anybody else with the same question
about sergers and garb)Alizaunde sends greetings (and congratulations on
your new toy!)
-Only two suggestions:
1: how fast it goes can cause BIG problems. Buy
old sheets at Goodwill and practice. LOTS. My sisters were full-time, pro
seamstresses for years, using sergers daily; they said it took about one full
set of cones of thread to adjust to a new serger well enough to produce
quality results.
2:Don't use it for ANTHING that shows. I use a machine (straight
stitch- I'm poor) for anything I can, partly because some period things,
like seamstresses' neuropathy, should not be re-created; and partly because
Life Is Too Short For Handstitching Straight Seams. But on the insides of
cuffs, and on necklines and hems, Serging is Serging and looks like serging.
Even a regular machine's zigzag looks more like handwork- and that's saying
plenty. (If it will never show WHEN WORN and you don't enter competitions,
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff.) If the speed of a serger gives you more time
to research and design better quality, more authentic garb, it's done you
and the Society a favor; if its speed becomes an excuse for cranking out
endless stacks of `they'll do for fighters', it hasn't.
Good luck.
Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf
From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: viking sewing stitches?
Date: 20 Jun 1994 06:11:01 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
: Again I, Tarrach Alfson, send greetings and beg answers to a
: question. I am in the middle of an attempt to make a viking shirt
: similar to the one found in Viborg (and recently the subject of an
: artical in the Early Period). The information I have on this find does
: not mention what type of stitching was used to sew the arm sleeves
: together, or to finish hems, or how they finished the raw edges of the
: inner seams since it is said that all raw edges are finished. I am
: currently waiting on an inter-library loan for Arheological Textiles in
: Northern Europe (Coppenhagen 1992) which I hope to help answer these and
: other questions. However, faster answers from any knowledgable
: individuals would be greatly appreciated, as I hope to have it finished
: for an upcoming event (two weeks from now). Thanks in advance!
Margrethe Hald's book "Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials"
notes seams done in running stitch, herringbone stitch, and twisted
buttonhole stitch. There are also viking-era items with a decorative
seam-joining done in "raised fishbone stitch" (a more heavily overlapped
version of herringbone). Edge-finishes include overcast (whip) stitch and
buttonhole.
Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn
From: bloodthorn at sloth.equinox.gen.nz (Jennifer Geard)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: viking sewing stitches?
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 94 21:13:39 GMT
Organization: Lethargy Inc.
Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn wrote:
>There are also viking-era items with a decorative seam-joining done in
>"raised fishbone stitch" (a more heavily overlapped version of herringbone).
This is my stitch of choice for quick sewing, since it binds the edges at the
same time as making the structural join. Looks good too.
Pagan
==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==
Jennifer Geard bloodthorn at sloth.equinox.gen.nz
Christchurch, New Zealand
From: parkerd at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.CA (Diana Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Cloaks
Date: 15 Nov 1994 08:37:19 -0500
Organization: The Internet
>I need help in finding a place in Ohio that can get me a pattern for a cloak.
>Before, I had always had someone else make my garb, but I have decided to do
>this myself.
A wonderful starting project, because it is done with long
straight seams, no complicated sewing tricks, and is fairly easy to make
the pattern.
If you are set on buying a commercial pattern, I can't help you because
I don't know who would carry such a thing. If you would like to make
your own pattern (following my easy directions - _easy_ honest :), send
me an email, and I will dig up the pattern I have on disk at home &
forward it to you.
>I even went out and bought a used sewing machine, though it is
>missing the needle. The lady who I bought it off of said that a missing
>needle
>would not be a problem--that I could go and get it replaced for minimal cost.
Needles are a consumable on sewing machines, something like thread only
not quite as fast. I have a small box I keep different sizes of needles
in. The usual sizes are:
9 - very fine sheer cloth
11 - light weight cloth
14 - practically everything
16 - heavier weight (your cloak!)
18 - sewing a tent
Then there are specialty needles of varying usefulness that are sold for
leather, for silks, or sewing with multiple threads at once.
Needles are quite cheap and can be bought at fabric stores, department
stores, and even some grocery stores.
>In any case, I think I got ripped off.
Well that would depend on what kind of machine you got and how much you
paid. Some of the older (ie 15-25 year old) machines are going to live
forever. My Mother has an ancient Singer that will sew through anything
you put in it's way. I know of many people sewing with older machines
that they wouldn't give up. If the motor on your machine still runs, you
probably didn't get ripped off.
I'm glad you have a sewing machine and the ambition to sew for
yourself. I think it is a great skill that is relatively easily
mastered, and I'd like to see more people getting into it.
cheers
Tabitha
----------------------------------------------
Diana Parker <parkerd at mcmail.mcmaster.ca>
Security Services CUC - 201
McMaster University (905) 525-9140 (x24282)
From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: hand stitching documentation
Date: 14 Dec 1995 10:06:11 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
In article <4ap5gn$54k at jaxnet.jaxnet.com>,
Tracy Watson <tewkes at jaxnet.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know of some illustations of hand stitched seams? I'd like
>to enter a piece into an Arts/Sci competition, but i'd rather use hand
>stitching instead of by machine. I also need a picture of those seams, it
>would be easier to copy. If anyone knows of such documentation, let me know
>the title and ISBN number, so I can access it by inter library loan, if
>neccessary. Thank you,
>
> Kathryn of Tewkesbury
Probably not what you're looking for, but one of the Unicorn tapestries
in the Cloisters shows a peasant with what looks like large topstitching
around the neck of his shirt (black thread on white shirt).
There's a photograph in a book about The Unicorn Tapestries; sorry, it's
packed in a box and not readily available.
-- Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net)
From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: hand stitching documentation
Date: 14 Dec 1995 17:07:05 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Tracy Watson (tewkes at jaxnet.com) wrote:
: Does anyone know of some illustations of hand stitched seams? I'd like
: to enter a piece into an Arts/Sci competition, but i'd rather use hand
: stitching instead of by machine. I also need a picture of those seams, it
: would be easier to copy. If anyone knows of such documentation, let me know
: the title and ISBN number, so I can access it by inter library loan, if
: neccessary. Thank you,
The appropriate documentation will differ depending on the precise period
and location of the item in question, but the best source I know for
"high medieval" English sewing is the Museum of London textiles book.
Nice clear diagrams and explanations of the use to which various
stitching techniques were put. ISBN 0-11-290445-9.
Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn
From: Kimberly <kim at inna.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: Sun, 5 May 1996 17:06:22 -0700
Greetings!
Just a few thoughts for some of our newer members from someone
who's been there, done that <grin>...
Making garb for the first time can be hectic... especially if you
have an event you've >just heard about< and you absolutely >have< to be
there! And you've only two days to come up with something.
Good news! With only a simple sewing machine, a steaming iron and
Elmer's glue, you can whip out a great t-tunic that will last all season
(and beyond) ----> In About 2 Hours <----!
Yes, those of you who sew constantly are probably groaning at the
mention of Elmer's glue, but honest, it's the best way to hold a seam
without the time consuming bother of pining! Just pre-crease your seams
with the iron, add a thin line of glue, then quick-dry it with the iron
again, and vola! A seam that will hold long enough to get from the
ironing board to the sewing machine... and unlike the conventional
straight pins, it holds the seams perfectly in place! No sliding or
gathering of material (which is caused by clumsy pining, like mine
<sigh>).
And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash out
and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you double
roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But for a first
time attempt that is only going to get you through one event, it's one of
the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick!
I won't waste space here by going through all the gory details
unless someone asks me to. I've been told there are several EXCELLENT
sewing FAQ's on the internet, but most of the ones I've read are a little
too technical for newbies and >no one< has mentioned the use of glue as a
temporary holding method vs. pining.
If you'd like a complete, detailed run-down (including a nifty
collar pattern), e-mail me at: kim at inna.net and mention "Newbie sewing".
I'll be more than happy to give you a list there!
Welcome and good luck!
Yours In Service,
Kimberly
From: jeffebear1 at aol.com (JeffEBear1)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: 8 May 1996 04:06:02 -0400
Don't forget to pre-shrink your fabric!
From: Doni Leamon <doeadeer at utc.campus.mci.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 20:25:57 -0400
If you are really pressed for time, nerves, etc. a fun alternative is
called Unique Stitch. It is a permanent (no, really!) fabric glue that
you apply and let cure for a few hours. My shot nerves would not allow
me to fight with my sewing machine one night before an event, but I
learned how to glue in *kindergarten* so I gave it a whirl. I even went
swimming in it (a chiton) the next day with no problems!
Just a thought when the sewing machine gremlins plague you.
In service,
Daine un Cerf
Kingdom of Meridies
From: aceia at onr.com (Aceia)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 19:13:16 +0100
Kimberly <kim at inna.net> wrote:
> Yes, those of you who sew constantly are probably groaning at the
>mention of Elmer's glue, but honest, it's the best way to hold a seam
>without the time consuming bother of pining! Just pre-crease your seams
>with the iron, add a thin line of glue, then quick-dry it with the iron
>again, and vola! A seam that will hold long enough to get from the
>ironing board to the sewing machine... and unlike the conventional
>straight pins, it holds the seams perfectly in place! No sliding or
>gathering of material (which is caused by clumsy pining, like mine
><sigh>).
>
> And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash out
>and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you double
>roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But for a first
>time attempt that is only going to get you through one event, it's one of
>the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick!
WOW! what a wonderful idea!! I have been sewing awhile and never thought
of it. I HATE pinning and usually I just don't bother which sometimes
leads to uneven seams....I wonder if this would work with
applique...sometimes I just hate wonder-under, always seems to end up all
over my iron. Of course glue probably will to...but it should just peel
off. Or for stabilizing the fabric....or for attaching thick trim that
has to be hand sewn (takes me days to do...)
THANKS for sharing this with me!!
Sewing is fun if you know all the shortcuts!
Robin Anderson of Ross
Ansteorra
Barony of Bryn Gwlad
From: parkerd at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA (Diana Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: 8 May 1996 23:28:42 -0400
Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.
When you're planning your cutting layout... is your fabric wide
enough for the selvedge (finished edges at the side) to be your bottom
hem? or at least to cut your sleeves so the bottom of them has a finished
edge? Makes it easier to turn up your fabric once instead of twice for
hemming - and saves the day if you've left the garb til the last minute
and have to choose between hemming & sleep.
Tabitha
--
Diana Parker parkerd at mcmaster.ca (905) 525-9140 (x24282)
CUC - 201 Security Services McMaster University
From: IVANOR at delphi.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: 11 May 1996 03:28:30 GMT
Quoting aceia from a message in rec.org.sca
>> And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash
>out >and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you
>double >roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But
>for a first >time attempt that is only going to get you through one
>event, it's one of >the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick!
>WOW! what a wonderful idea!! I have been sewing awhile and never
>thought of it. I HATE pinning and usually I just don't bother which
>sometimes leads to uneven seams....I wonder if this would work with
>applique...sometimes I just hate wonder-under, always seems to end up
Of course it will. In fact, the sewing/crafts tips programs recommend this
sort of thing, though they mostly seem to be pushing things like Aleene's
Tacky Glue.... But Elmer's is cheaper and definitely soluble.
>all over my iron. Of course glue probably will to...but it should
>just peel off. Or for stabilizing the fabric....or for attaching
>thick trim that has to be hand sewn (takes me days to do...)
Yup, it'll work for that, too. Just don't use it for anything that isn't
washable, or you'll have to leave it in even after stitching.
Carolyn Boselli ivanor at delphi.com Host of CF35..SCAdians on Delphi
ivanor at localnet.com
From: Kim Pollard <kim at inna.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 09:21:16 -0400
On Sat, 18 May 1996, Cennydd wrote:
> Could anyone please help me with tips on how to do dagging so all the
> edges don't fray--were the edges finished in any way? And were the
> edges of fabric in slashed sleeves, etc. finished?
__________
I don't know how those of the middle ages delt with frayed edges, but
I've found the best way to "dagg" is to:
a) draw out your pattern first on the fabric leaving roughly
1/2" between the daggs for the thread to hold onto once
they are cut and flipped.
b) pin (or glue) another piece of fabric behind the first
c) carefully sew along your lines... leave "points" in the
ends of your daggs so they will flip easier V V
| || ||
if this realy confuses you, wait | || ||
until I get my newbie sewing site up \___/\___/\
d) once all the sewing is done, cut out the daggs leaving
at least 1/4" trim to leave the thread something to hold
hold onto once it's been washed.
e) flip the fabric right-side out and iron flat. You may wish
to re-sew along the edge again to keep it flat permanently,
but that is not really necessary. Just sew the end of the
backing shut (flipping that over as well to keep >it< from
fraying) and volia! You have daggs!
Kimberly
From: brettwi at ix.netcom.com(Brett Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies
Date: 19 May 1996 15:50:15 GMT
Cennydd <mite1 at aloha.net> writes:
>Could anyone please help me with tips on how to do dagging so all the
>edges don't fray--were the edges finished in any way? And were the
>edges of fabric in slashed sleeves, etc. finished?
In period, dagged fabric was more tightly beaten in the weaving process
than what is done by machine these days and didn't need edge finishes
when pinked or dagged (see the fragment of dagging in HMSO "Medieval
Textiles". I've finished dagged edges in three different ways, none of
which are (so far in my searchings) documentably period techniques*:
1. Fray Check. This stuff is a chemical preparation found on the
notion wall in any decent sewing shop that, when dribbled on the cut
edge of a fabric, will prevent fraying of any kind. It is poisonous,
nasty to breathe and will stain the edge of the fabric a tad darker in
hue than what it originally was. Since you're talking as if your
fraying is after the fact, this might be a way to save your present
garment.
But, in the future:
2. Before cutting the dag pattern, travel over the proposed edge of
the dags with two journeys of dense zig-zag stitching with your
machine, either in matching or contrasting thread. Fray Check is a nice
reinforcement here.
3. Line your dagged edges with a contrasting color: e.g., if your
houppelande is black velveteen and your cotehardie underneath is white,
how about a nice deep red for a sleeve lining?
Hope this helps.
ciorstan