sewing-tools-msg – 1/19/08
Medieval sewing tools, needles, thimbles.
NOTE: See also the files: sergers-msg, sewing-msg, CMA-sew-supl-msg, lace-msg,
clothng-forms-msg, p-knitting-bib, looms-msg, spinning-msg.
************************************************************************
NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
************************************************************************
From: mwolfe at epas.utoronto.ca (Menya Wolfe)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Needles, information on creation
Date: 23 Mar 1994 22:32:44 GMT
Organization: EPAS Computing Facility, University of Toronto
In article <9403221451.AA19342 at milo.uucp> ayotte at milo.UUCP (Robert Arthur Ayotte) writes:
> I am seeking information on needle construction, period documentation
>to be exact. I am looking for both how they were made and what kinds were
>made over the period we all work with (Pre 1600). I wish to focus on metal
>needles but would also like information on the bone and thorn variety (and
>horn). I have had a devil of a time locating even photographs of such
>things.
Look for a book by Arthur MacGregor called _Bone, Antler, Ivory and
Horn_. _Artifacts_ by Henry Hodges may also have useful information
on working bone. If you need full references, contact me.
Rhiannon
From: Phyllis_Gilmore at rand.org (Phyllis Gilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Scissors, Thimbles, and Such: Books
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 94 09:34:18 GMT
Organization: RAND
As promised (and for once I deliver), the information on sewing tools
Massimiliano Manel, _Ciseaux [Scissors]_, tr. Joell Micheli and
Jacqueline Loubet, Cremona, Italy: PML Editions, 1991. This is a
French translation of an Italian original--perhaps there is an English
edition that I haven't seen. Lots of color photos, but not many in
our period.
P.9 shows a pair of iron shears from the eastern Mediterranean, 14th
century. The blades are "crossed" and pinned together in the manner
of modern scissors, the blades are very wide (especially relative to
the handles) and have the general look of hand-forged iron (how much
of that is due to the passage of time, I know not).
P. 11 shows two pairs of shears (specifically for shearing sheep "but
also for all other household uses," and notes that these were used
"from the 9th to the 19th century almost without alteration in
structure." A third pair is shown with a decorated metal case, and
both the handles of the scissors and the case are decorated in what
appears to be a typically Italian Renaissance relief design (your
opinion may vary). These are specifically for household use, Italian,
between 1550 and 1510. All three sheers are essentially two facing
knives joined together at the ends of the "handles" with a curve of
springy metal. (I've seen "designer" and Japanese style new scissors
that look very much like these in general design.).
P. 13 shows two candle-snuffers, Italian, 16th century. These are
essentially long-handled scissors with a little box attached to the
blade (presumably to catch the wick being trimmed off as you snuff
the candle). The long parts of the handles have a turned-wood look
to them, the "boxes" are decorated in relief.
p. 15 shows two "horloges" in the form of scissors. Since they don't
look a thing like Big Ben, I presume (perhaps wrongly) that these
are sundial bits. These artists' interpretations resemble, in one
instance, scissors-type toenail clippers (with a straight metal
"spring" between the handles) (16th century), and in the other, a pair
of pliers with blades instead of "jaws" (sorry, 17th century).
Estelle Zalkin, _Zalkin's Handbook of Thimbles and Sewing Implements:
A Complete Collectors Guide with Current Prices_, Radnor,
Pennsylvania: Warman Publishing Co., Inc., 1988. Caveats: This is
a guide for "serious" collectors (not the "oh, how cute honey! it's
a thimble that looks like Mickey Mouse" crowd). It doesn't have a lot
in our period; not everything has a date; and you have to look at a
lot of thimbles to find what you want (I found a 16th century example
on p. 26). While it focuses on thimbles, it does address most other
types of needlework tools. This is for collectors, not scholars, but
it does have a bibliography (e-mail if you're interested). It turns
out that most of the "interesting" stuff is 17th-20th centuries--or
at least the stuff you can expect to be able to buy. The earliest
dated scissors in the book (p. 162) are from a 1692 pair in the
Museum of London (oddly enough, the scissors I carry about with me
are a pewter reproduction pair from Gingher--me, split hairs?).
******************************************
SCA: Philippa de Ecosse, Lyondemere, Caid
mka: Phyllis Gilmore, Santa Monica and Torrance, CA
My opinions are my own, unless donated. All contributions welcome.
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: rorice at bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (rosalyn rice)
Subject: CRAFTS: Medieval Sewing Kits
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington IN
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 1994 11:43:12 GMT
Greetings from Lothar,
Actually, there are a number of interesting artifacts to be found
in the Excavations from Medieval London series. In, I believe, the Dress
Accessories book, there are several examples of iron or brass thimbles that
look a fair bit like the modern ones. There are also needle cases, one with
a needle still in it.
In the Knives and Scabbards book, there are a few examples of
scissors. But these are the "spring" sort which are made out of a single
piece of metal, rather than the hinged sort. (BTW, you can still get this
sort of scissor). I've seen pictures of medieval tailors using the hinged
sort of shear, so both sorts of scissors are period, though the handy little
stork-shaped embroidery scissors might be an OOP design.
That is all I know for fact. I've seen a Rev War period sewing kit
which looked pretty close to a modern one (being a small wallet with a piece
of cloth to stick needles in, an a pouch for buttons and the like), but
no documentation for anything earlier than that. Admittedly, I haven't
looked.
I'd be willing to believe that sewing accessories which couldn't
be carried on a belt, like scissors or a needle pouch, were likely
carried in a a pouch or just kept in a box like we'd do today, but I
don't know for sure.
Lothar
From: b.woods6 at genie.geis.COM
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: CRAFT: Period sewing kit...
Date: 16 Oct 1994 01:43:02 -0400
Organization: the internet
On the subject of period sewing, I bring to the Rialto the
commentary of a friend of mine, Lady Sorcha:
========================================================================
To the good lady who inquired about having a period sewing case: there
are a number of items found in a modern sewing case that will sub for
period equipment. To begin with, needles are common, but were kept in
a needle case to protect them. Metal needles were expensive and were
often passed on to future generations as doweries and had great
monetary value. Bone and wood needles were common, but metal needles
were prized. Today's needles will suffice, but since there are so many
types to choose from, just keep on hand whatever you normally use.
Pins too, were highly prized. Bent pins were often given to servants
as "gratuities", taken to a tailor or metal smith, these pins could be
turned into cash or bartered for something (hence the term "pin-money."
Both of these items were kept in needlecases or a pin cusion of some
variety. Many of these cases were highly decorative as well as useful
and could be used to display ones' skills in decorative arts. This
continued into the Victorian age, as well.
Other items would include: wax (beeswax) for strengthening threads;
snips (precurser to scissors) or small decorative scissors in later
periods; a thimble of some variety, remember metal was precious so
perhaps a leather quilters' thimble that you can find in any fabric
store would be more common than the metal ones. And also there would
have been some threads or perhaps swatches to repair items.
It is difficult to really tell what the average lady would have had in
her kit. Most of these items accompanied here throughout her daily
duties. Carried in a small pouch or on a "chatellaine" at her belt.
From the items found at various archeological digs, we can assume that
the Medieval lady had many of the same items that we have now. The
materials that the tools are made from today may differ, but the use
was the same. Much of the "new modern utensils" are just adaptations
to older tools.
For more information, there are a number of books that cover sewing
history that are available from the library. Many deal with Victorian
collectables but there are some good references in these. Look at art
history books as well, period paintings often show people doing
everyday tasks, perhaps this will show you some examples of period
sewing items. There are also antiques available, but unless you win
the lottery or are well-to-do, I suggest making do with modern copies
of items.
I hope this helps, I am not normally on this net, I only kibitz with a
friend, but if you want some further help, please write. I can try to
come up with a bibliography of some helpful books.
Yours in service, Lady Sorcha O'Branigain
========================================================================
Brent "messenger to the Net" Woods
INTERNET: b.woods6 at genie.geis.com
USNAIL: 1401 Medford Ave. / Indianapolis IN 46222-3043
MABELL: +1 (317) 231-9510
SCA: Barony of Sternfeld, Middle Kingdom
From: darrell.markewitz at ambassador.com (Darrell Markewitz)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Sissors, Thimbles,
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 1994 12:12:02 GMT
Organization: AMBASSADOR BOARD (519) 925-2642 V.32
the WAREHAM FORGE
Hamlet of Wareham
RR #2, Proton Stn
Ont, CDN - N0C 1L0
(519) 923- 9219
wareham.forge at ambassador.com
As an addition to your research base for sissors and shears.
Check out "Knives and Scabbards" by Cowgill, Neergaard & Griffiths, Her
Magesty's Stationary Office, London ISBN 0 11 2904440 8.
Despite the title, it covers cutlery in general, based on findings
within the Medieval city of London, about 1150 to 1450 AD.
Has 9 pages describing the shears and sissors. Also a section on use,
metal content and even more!
Most are shears, there are only 3 sissors shown, all early to late 14th
c.
Hope this helps..
Sylard
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: motto at usgp4.ih.att.com (-Otto,M.R.)
Subject: Re: Sissors, Thimbles,
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 1994 20:51:30 GMT
Greetings, good gentles of the Bridge from Rosaline Weaver, in the
Shire of Rokkehealdan.
I have a replica medieval thimble which I purchased on a trip to London.
It is a ring, open both top and bottom, with indentations along the
band, and a protective lip at the wider edge. It is made of pewter, I
believe. I have had it for about five years now. Quite functional, too.
(Also - I recently received the great news that my name has been passed
by Laurel, so I'm now "legally" Rosaline Weaver.)
From: Chris Laning <claning at igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Search for Thread Winders
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 1995 00:57:51 -0700 (PDT)
I have searched high and low for a source of authentic--or authentic
LOOKING--"thread winders" at a reasonable price. These are (I'm told)
what sewing thread was wound on before someone invented spools, hence
correct for my Elizabethan persona who is an excellent needlewoman
(well, a conspicuous one, anyway, one must needs be modest).
They are flat, thin pieces of wood, bone, ivory, shell and perhaps other
materials, basically circular, perhaps two inches across, with an even
number (4, 6, 8) of round "bites" taken out of the edges to form notches.
Thread is wound around/across them, kind of like on one of those plastic
"daisy wheel" looms. I've succeeded in getting a *few* made for $2 each
(by local lumberyard's door shop) and I'm surprised how much thread one
will hold (at least half a large commercial spool).
Today I went to the local Plastic Merchant to inquire about having some
laser cut (which is a service they advertise heavily). They do have an
ivory-colored sheet plastic which looks acceptable (as long as you don't
touch it--it doesn't feel like ivory). But they said two inches is too
small, the edge (I showed them one of the fancier patterns) is too
intricate, they'd have to sent it to the Big Shop which charges $100/hour,
etc. etc.
I am wondering if there are good gentles out there who can help. Do you
know if anyone carries *cheap* thread winders? Or could I barter/pay to
have some made?
Here's what I've already tried:
(1) Lacis, in Berkeley, has lovely $20 (each!) antique thread winders made
of mother-of-pearl. NOT in my price range as I do craft demos and could
really use about a dozen of the things. They also (I'm told) have modern
reproductions at virtually the same price. No help there.
(2) The aforesaid door shop, after some experimenting, was able to
produce ten slightly lopsided ones out of 3/16-inch plywood. The pattern
I gave them looks like a 4-armed cross: a 2-inch circle with four equally
spaced 5/8-inch circles cut out of it, with their edges 1/2 inch from the
center of the 2-inch circle (i.e. the holes "slop over" the edge of the
larger circle by 1/8 inch). I'm told they did it by drilling the four holes
first, then cutting the 2-inch circle. However the plywood tends to
splinter quite badly. I sanded the edges and stained them, and they look
okay (and are certainly usable) but -- $2 each for little slices of wood?
Affordable, yes, but ...
I am not in any way a woodcarver or woodworker; don't have the skills,
the tools or the experience. But I'd be willing to barter, and can do
quilting, needlepoint, knitting or embroidery.
Am I dreaming the impossible dream? Of course, just wait; five years
from now someone will be producing something that looks just like them
*en masse* for some totally unrelated purpose (the next "Power Rangers"
accessory or something...).
O Chris Laning
| <claning at igc.apc.org>
+ Davis, California
From: Kim Brody Salazar <kim.salazar at em.doe.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Search for Thread Winders
Date: 8 Sep 1995 13:59:32 GMT
Organization: U.S. Department of Energy
Chris Laning <claning at igc.apc.org> wrote:
>
> I have searched high and low for a source of authentic--or authentic
> LOOKING--"thread winders" at a reasonable price. These are (I'm told)
> what sewing thread was wound on before someone invented spools, hence
> correct for my Elizabethan persona who is an excellent needlewoman
> (well, a conspicuous one, anyway, one must needs be modest).
>
> They are flat, thin pieces of wood, bone, ivory, shell and perhaps other
> materials, basically circular, perhaps two inches across, with an even
> number (4, 6, 8) of round "bites" taken out of the edges to form notches.
> Thread is wound around/across them, kind of like on one of those plastic
> "daisy wheel" looms. I've succeeded in getting a *few* made for $2 each
> (by local lumberyard's door shop) and I'm surprised how much thread one
> will hold (at least half a large commercial spool)...
>
Dear Chris,
This is a lovely idea. I'd seen pictures of thread winders in
books on historical needlework, but I've never seen anything
like them in person beyond the modern cardboard thingies sold for
floss or the plastic bobbins used in entrelac and argyle knitting.
I also am trying to do my period needlework in a more historically
authentic manner. I'm currently looking for small "snips" rather
to replace my modern embroidery scissors. I'd be very interested
in finding thread winders, too. Perhaps if enough people get
together you will amass a quantity order large enough to make
commissioning custom work feasible.
I know very little about woodwork, and even less about manipulating
bone or horn. I suspect that thin wafers of wood, notched in the
manner you describe would require a very hard, fine-grained material
like the types of wood used to make hair combs; and lots of sanding
to get smooth enough to avoid snagging threads - especially fine
embroidery silks.
I did note several learned discussions about working horn here on
the Rialto. Perhaps someone skilled in that medium might be
interested in trying their hand at thread winders.
In any case, please keep us posted on your investigations. If you
are looking for kindred spirits to participate in a group commission,
please count me in.
-Ianthe d'Averoigne kim.salazar at em.doe.gov
From: Tim Beck <timbeck at ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Bone sewing kit, who can help?
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 05:31:59 GMT
Sekhmet <Sekhmet at rosa.demon.nl> wrote:
>I recently decided I wanted my whole take-to-events-sewing-kit as period
>as I can get it. I decided I needed a box made out of bone to keep my
>needles in. I'm still looking for information on boneworking, both
>mundane and period, and I was wondering if anyone has come across what
>an actual period sewing kit consisted of? I'm thinking 12th century, but
>information about any time period is welcome.
>Thanks,
>Gerbrich de Fries
>aka
>Sarah de Vries
You might want to check out the Museum of London _Dress Accessories_ book. They have several drawings and descriptions of period needle cases. Among them is one made from a section of bridie leg bone. What kind? I have no idea...don't have the source arround right now. But it seems to me with proper prep a chicken leg would do just fine. As I recall the ends were both cut off and it had a plug in one end and probably had a stpper in the other. Hang it from a belt on a cord. Also one of the needle cases they have contained an iron needle made of stiff wire that had been slightly flattened then pieced.
Timothy
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:51:13 -0500
From: Gunnora Hallakarva <gunnora at bga.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Sewing Boxes
Vikings and Anglo-Saxon women seem to have carried small metal "capsules"
(round boxes, pull-off lid, usually bronze, lid attached to body via hinges
or chain, the whole suspended from the brooches on a chain).
These were big enough to hold thread, maybe a needle or two, and little
bits of cloth. We don't know if these bits of cloth were weaving samples
to show what you'd done in the past. pattern examples for future weaving,
or ready-to go patches to be used for clothing repair. Others interpet
these as amulets or talismans of some sort.
Then there's also the famous needle cases, which held needles and often
thread looped figure eight style around the needles.
See:
Meaney, Audrey L. Anglo-Saxon Amulets and Curing Stones. British
Archaeological Reports British Series 96. Oxford: BAR. 1981.