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aspic-msg - 9/7/04

 

Notes on aspic. A meat-based gelatin used in some medieval dishes and sotelties. Recipe. Substitutions. Other gelatins.

 

NOTE: See also the files: sotelties-msg, fish-msg, broths-msg, puddings-msg, roast-pork-msg, roast-meats-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I  have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given by the individual authors.

 

Please  respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The  copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear at this time. If  information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:33:56 -0400

From: marilyn traber <margali at 99main.com>

Subject: Re: SC - aspic?

 

> Ok, I've seen several mentions of this "aspic" in several messages

> lately. For us new cooks, what is it?

>

> Stefan li Rous

 

Do you know the clearish gelatinous goo under the refrigerated chicken

or turkey? That is aspic in its original and best example. You get it

from cooking cartilage and bones to render out relatively pure protein.

It is the forerunner of jello.

 

margali

 

 

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 07:14:24 -0400

From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC - aspic?

 

> Dragonfyr said:

> > she filled the blown out eggs with a beef aspic,

>

> Ok, I've seen several mentions of this "aspic" in several messages

> lately. For us new cooks, what is it?

>

> Stefan li Rous

 

Aspic is a very clear jelly made from meat-based gelatin, as, for

instance, the juice from a roast chicken will turn into a jelly when it

gets cold. The jelly around the canned ham is another example, except it

is usually unacceptably salty. For most culinary purposes, aspic is

usually made either by adding gelatin to stock, or ideally by boiling

down consomme, which is an OOP, extra clear, extra flavorful, meat or

fish stock.

 

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 13:26:14 -0400

From: Woeller D <angeliq1 at erols.com>

Subject: Re: SC - SC- Basic Cookbooks

 

This is my answer to Yorkshire pudding, Aspics and cookbooks combined.

Ignore what you will.

 

The book that I find indispensible is Helen Worth's 'Cooking Without

Recipes'.  It's old (Mine is a third copyright edition from 1965) but it

has hundreds of 'patterns'- it explains techniques for cooking items and

styles, with guidelines and hints so that you can 'freeform', and also

has many basic recipes.  

 

<snip>

 

Then, others have asked about aspic- I don't find it in my modern

cookbooks, but page 149 of my trusty old reliable says:

 

Aspic

 

- -1 envelope unflavored gelatin

- -2 cups liquid, divided  OR 1 3/4 cups liquid plus 4 T acid (having

explained on the same page that vinegar or lemon juice may be used to

'tenderize' the gelatin)

- -1/2 t salt

2-4 C flavoring ingredients*OPTIONAL ( having explained on the previous

page under 'gelatin salads' that good liquids are fruit juice, stock,

bouillon or milk, and suggested flavorings include various meats,

veggies, seafoods & fruits)

Soften gelatin in 1/2 C cold liquid. Stir over low heat until gelatin

dissolves. Remove from heat & add remaining liquid & salt & pour into

molds.  If using flavoring ingredients, fold in when gelatin is

cosistency of egg white, then pour into molds. Refrigerate until firm.

 

Angelique

 

 

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 22:35:12 EDT

From: melc2newton at juno.com (Michael P Newton)

Subject: Re: SC - aspic?

 

On 18 Oct 1997 01:49:06 U "Mark Harris" <mark_harris at risc.sps.mot.com>

writes:

>Dragonfyr said:

>> she filled the blown out eggs with a beef aspic,

>

>Ok, I've seen several mentions of this "aspic" in several messages

>lately. For us new cooks, what is it?

>

>Stefan li Rous

 

I've been reading {grazing,actually} _A Concise Encyclopedia of

Gastronomy_ by Andre L. Simon, and he has what looks like a real cool

recipe for Aspic. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I'll give it

out anyways:

 

Aspic

french for Meat Jelly. Meat gravy and calf's foot jelly flavoured with

pot-herbs, one of these being the espic or spikenard, hence the name.

        The more usual way to make a meat glaze for Aspic is as follows:

        Onions and Carrots

        1 calf's foot

        Small "bouquet garni'

        1 clove garlic

        1 clove

        Hot water

Cover the whole bottom surface of a heavy copper or iron saucepan with

slices of onion; cover these in turn with trimmings of lean meat,

preferably gelatinous things such as pieces of shank of veal, skin of

fresh pork and scraps of beef, poultry or veal. Add one or two sliced

carrots, a calf's foot cut into smallish pieces, the 'bouquet',clove,

garlic, salt and pepper. Moisten with a ladleful of water and set on a

good fire to sweat. When the juices begin to flow and the contents of the

pan begin to colour and look like sticking to the bottom, reduce heat

greatly and continue cooking very gently until the surface fat looks

quite clear. Skim this fat off very carefully, then add hot water

according to requirements. Do not touch contents of pan, beyond shaking

gently now and then, that the browned onion may colour the glaze nicely,

but do not allow contents to burn.Simmer gently  over a low heat for 2 or

3 hours; then, again skim off any surface fat and strain the gravy

through a very fine sieve lined with muslin. Set aside for use whenever

wanted. It will keep well on ice.

 

If anyone uses this, let me know, and we'll compare notes!

Lady Beatrix

 

 

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:09:42 -0800

From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>

Subject: SC - Meat jelly (was: french cooking etc.)

 

There are period recipes for meat (and fish) jellies; what you are usually

doing is cooking down wine or whatever with pigs' feet or the like to make

a stock that will jell, then cooking slices of meat in it, then arranging

the meat in a dish, straining the liquid, and pouring the liquid over the

meat and letting it cool and set.

 

Elizabeth/Betty Cook

 

 

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 20:47:10 -0800From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>Subject: Re: SC - Meat jelly (was: french cooking etc.)Stefan quoted me:>>There are period recipes for meat (and fish) jellies; ...>>Is this the same as aspic? We had a recent discussion on this list about>aspic (which is now in my file aspic-msg). Is aspic something else? Or>is meat jelly a more general category that includes aspic?Yes, I believe this is the same as aspic; I was using the word "jelly"because the period recipes are called things like "gele of flessh" or"gelye de fysshe".  I don't know when the word "aspic" comes into use forthis sort of thing in English.Elizabeth/Betty Cook

 

Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 12:34:51 -0500

From: "marilyn traber" <mtraber at email.msn.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Jelly (was Menagier translation webbed)

 

ya know the ooky clear gel  under cold chicken- it's called aspic.

they used to take the hocks of veal, cook for a long time with various

seasonings and use it as a basic aspic as well.

 

you can fake an aspic if you are in a hurry with Knox unflavored gelatin and

make it with beef or chicken broth. it does sort of surprise the midnight

fridge raider if they are expecting white grape jello and get chicken aspic.

*snicker*

margali

 

 

Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 10:11:43 -0400

From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)

Subject: Re: SC - Re:

 

<snip>

 

>I agree. Since jams are basically fruit that has stewed a little too long I

>find it unreasonable to think that jam did not exist. OTH,Jellies I would have

>more of a problem with,. Unfortunately, I do not lnow of any medieval

>literature that refers to this food either. On gut instinct and logic , I

>would say continue serving it, just don't list it as "medieval". :-)

>

>Ras

 

Meat jelly was known, as this fancy dish of pork & chicken in aspic proves:

 

Harleian MS. 279 - Potage Dyvers

 

Cix.  Gelye de chare.  Take caluys fete, & skalde hem in fayre water, an

make hem alle [th]e whyte.  Also take howhys of Vele, & ley hem in water to

soke out [th]e blode; [th]en take hem vppe, an lay hem on a fayre lynen

clo[th]e, & lat [th]e water rennyn out of [hem]; [th]an Skore a potte, &

putte [th]e Fete & [th]e Howhys [th]er-on; [th]an take Whyte Wyne [th]at

wolle hold coloure, & cast [th]er-to a porcyon, an non o[th]er lycoure,

[th]at [th]e Fleysshe be ouer-wewyd with-alle, & sette it on [th]e fyre, &

boyle it, & Skeme it clene; an whan it is tendyr & boylid y-now, take vppe

[th]e Fleyshe in-to a fayre bolle, & saue [th]e lycoure wyl; & loke [th]at

[th]ow haue fayre sydys of Pyggys, & fayre smal Chykenys wyl & clene

skladdyd & drawe, & lat [th]e leggys an [th]e fete on, an waysshe hem in

fayre water, & caste hem in [th]e fyrste brothe, an sethe it a-[3]en ouer

[th]e fyre, & skeme it clene; lat a man euermore kepe it, an blow of [th]e

grauy.  An in cas [th]e lycoure wast a-way, caste more of [th]e same wyne

[th]er-to, & put [th]in honde [th]er-on; & [3]if [th]in hond waxe clammy,

it is a syne of godenesse, an let not [th]e Fleyshe be moche sothe, [th]at

it may bere kyttyng; [th]an take it vppe, & ley it on a fayre clo[th]e, &

sette owt [th]e lycoure fro [th]e fyre, & put a few colys vnder-nethe [th]e

vesselle [th]at [th]e lycoure is yn; [th]an take pouder of Pepir, a gode

quantyte, & Safron, [th]at it haue a fayre Laumbere coloure, & a gode

quantyte of Vynegre, & loke [th]at it be sauery [of] Salt & of Vynegre,

fayre of coloure of Safroun, & putte it on fayre lynen clo[th]e, & sette it

vnder-nethe a fayre pewter dysshe, & lat it renne [th]orw [th]e clo[th]e so

ofte tylle it renne clere:  kytte fayre Rybbys of [th]e syde of [th]e

Pygge, & lay ham on a dysshe, an pulle of [th]e lemys of [th]e Chykenys,

eche fro o[th]er, & do a-way [th]e Skynne, & ley sum in a dysshe fayre

y-chowchyd, & pore [th]in gelye [th]er-on, & lay Almaundys [th]er-on, an

Clowys, & paryd Gyngere, & serue forth.

 

Le Menagier also lists several meat jellies and fish jellies, including one

tinted blue with turnsole & decorated with armorial bearings in gold &

silver. (Power's "The Goodman of Paris", p. 280)

 

Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu

renfrow at skylands.net

Author & Publisher of "Take a Thousand Eggs or More, A Collection of 15th

Century Recipes" and "A Sip Through Time, A Collection of Old Brewing

Recipes"

 

 

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:31:14 -0800

From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Le Menagier

 

At 4:40 PM -0500 10/22/98, Helen wrote:

>Also, what is crayfish jelly?

 

Here is Menagier's meat jelly, which has crayfish in the meat-day version

along with the meat and crayfish and/or various fish for the fish-day

version. I haven't tried this version, although I have done one from a

contemporary English cookbook.

- ---------

TO MAKE FOUR DISHES OF MEAT JELLY, take a pig and four calf's feet and have

two chicks plucked and two skinny young rabbits, and remove the grease, and

they are to be split in two down the middle, except the pig which is to be

cut in pieces: and then put in a pan three quarts of white wine or claret,

a pint of vinegar, a half-pint of verjuice, make it boil and froth

strongly: then add, in a small closed cloth bag, a quarter of an ounce of

saffron to give an amber colour, and put meat on to boil and all together

with a little salt; then take ten or twelve pieces of white ginger or five

or six pieces of galingale, half an ounce of grains of Paradise, three or

four pieces of mace leaf, two blancs worth of juniper: cubeb, nard, three

blancs worth: bay leaves, six nutmegs; then crush them in a mortar and put

in a bag and put in to boil with the meat until it is cooked, then take it

out and set it to dry on a white cloth, then take for the best plate the

feet, the snout and the ears: and the rest to the others. Then take a good

net on two supports, and pour your whole potful through it, except for the

spices which you take out, and strain it for soup, and do not stir it until

it gets clearer.  But if it does not strain well, heat it here and there to

keep it hot so it will strain better, and strain it two or three times

until it becomes clear, or through a cloth folded three times. Then take

your dishes and arrange your meat in them, and have some cooked crayfish,

of which you are to put on your meat the thighs and tails; your jelly is to

be reheated, and pour enough of it on to the meat to cover, for there need

be only a little meat, then put in the cellar overnight to cool, and in the

morning stick in it cloves and bay leaves and cinnamon sticks, and sprinkle

with red anise.  Note that to make it in two hours, you must have quince

seed (or flesh: trans.), philicon (possibly an astringent plant of the fern

family) and cherry-tree gum, and crush all this together and put in a bag

to boil with the meat.

 

Item, on fish days, you make the jelly as above, with loach, tench, bream,

eels, crayfish and perch. And when the fish is cooked, put it to drain and

dry on a fair white cloth, and skin and clean it well, and throw the skins

in the broth.

 

Elizabeth/Betty Cook

 

 

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:09:32 -0400

From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC - crayfish jelly

 

Helen asked:

> > >Also, what is crayfish jelly?

> > >

> > >"Side dish: crayfish jelly, loach jelly, small rabbits and pigs.

>

> I saw the recipe, but I do not know what it is.  Is it a jelly (for

> bread) or more like an aspic?

 

Crayfish jelly is most likely a solid, clear fish jelly (crayfish don't seem

to have the right kinds of proteins to gel on their own, ditto crabs,

lobsters, and shrimp) flavored and garnished with crayfish. If you've ever

seen head cheese in the market, it's probably something along those lines,

except made with fish and crayfish instead of hog's head. Not unlike a jellied

shrimp salad, which actually sounds to me like it might be pretty good.

 

Adamantius

¯stgardr, East

 

 

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 18:20:16 -0400

From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)

Subject: Re: SC -gelatinous properties, was chessboards

 

>I'm trying to find a mention of  carageenan in any of our references or

>original sources.  No luck, yet, but Ann Hagen says, in _A Handbook of

>Anglo-Saxon Food_, the Processing and Consumption volume:

>

>"Cereal-derived flummery produced a slightly acid, solid jelly, ...."

>

>She is not talking about carageenan here, is she?  A product derived from

>moss would not come under the 'cereal' heading, I don't think.  The word

>'flummery' is not generally used in the USA, but is it still used in GB

>for puddings, et al?  Does anyone know, specifically, what Hagen means?

 

Sir Kenelme Digby has a flummery recipe.  It is a wheat flour pudding or

jelly flavored with sugar and rosewater or orange-flower water:  "#152

WHEATEN FLOMMERY...  Take half, or a quarter of a bushel of good Bran of

the best wheat (which containeth the purest flower of it, though little,

and is used to make starch,) and in a great woodden bowl or pail, let it

soak with cold water upon it three or four days.  Then strain out the milky

water from it, and boil it up to a gelly or like starch. Which you may

season with Sugar and Rose or Orange-flower-water, and let it stand till it

be cold, and gellied..."

 

<snip>

 

Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu

renfrow at skylands.net

 

 

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 15:54:13 -0700

From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM at mainsaver.com>

Subject: RE: SC -gelatinous properties, was chessboards

 

I believe that a seaweed called "dulse" is/was common as a food in the

Hebridescommon

 

Maggie

C. Southampton

RPF/CA

MaggiRos

Mairghread-R—s FitzGarret of Desmond, O.L. (Caid)

 

 

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 00:57:52 -0000

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Nanna_R=F6gnvaldard=F3ttir?=" <nannar at isholf.is>

Subject: Re: SC -gelatinous properties, was chessboards

 

This is what Alan Davidson says in North Atlantic Seafood, after describing

carrageen moss or Irish moss (Chondrus crispus):

 

"In fact there are two plants which go by the name carrageen. The other is

Gigartina stellata (Stackhouse) ... Both belong to a group of red seaweeds

which are the source of agar (or agar-agar, a Malayan word meaning the

gelatinous extract made from various of these plants). This product is

important in making liquids viscous or producing jellies ... During the

Second World War Britain suffered a shortage of agar and special measures

were taken to identify and exploit native stocks of carrageen ... The

housewives of the Hebrides still use carrageen for making a delicious milk

jelly which has a pleasant tang of the sea in its flavour. ... The Irish

have found many ways of using it in cookery, many of them subsidiary (for

example, as an addition to soups or to help set the fruit mixture in a fruit

flan)." Davidson also has an Irish recipe for a carragheen dessert.

 

Carrageen moss was eaten in Iceland in the old days, usually mixed with

grains in a porridge. Sometimes the porridge was cooled, cut into pieces,

and the pieces were then preserved in whey, sometimes for months. Carrageen

was also chopped and mixed with skyr (whey). Dulse, on the other hand, is

still eaten and has been since the settlement, and frequently chewed as a

sort of chewing gum (if you have read Egils Saga, you may recall when Egill

wanted to starve himself to death after losing his sons but was tricked into

accepting some dulse - that was OK, dulse for chewing wasn«t food - but its

saltiness made him thirsty and he called for a jug of water, but was given

milk instead. When he realized he had broken his fast, he abandoned his

starvation plan and composed a rather good poem instead.

 

Nanna

 

 

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 11:36:22 -0400

From: Christine A Seelye-King <mermayde at juno.com>

Subject: SC - Gelatins/ Carageen Pudding

 

On Fri, 7 May 1999  MAGGIE SECARA writes:

>I believe that a seaweed called "dulse" is/was common as a food in the

>Hebrides

>

>Maggie

 

DOH!  Of course!  There is a candy called "Dulsy the Yellowman" on the

cover of the pamphlet for the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland.

There is a fair there that dates to the early 1600's, and it is

traditionally served there.  The flyer says (yup, just went and dug out

my pictures from our trip)  "Dulsy the Yellowman depicted in this

brochure originates from the two delicacies, dulse and Yellowman,

features of the "Ould Lammas Fair", held on the last Monday and Tuesday

of August in Ballycastle."

        And then, I got out my "Favorite Irish Recipies" book I got there, and

there is a recipie for yellowman (a yellow, brittle toffee) and for *ta

da*  Carageen Pudding.  No dates here, but it is a start.

 

Carageen Pudding

>From "Favorite Irish Recipies - Traditional Fare from the Emeral Isle"

Carageen is a seaweed found around the coast of Ireland. Also known as

Sea Moss or Irish Moss, it is full of minerals and has considerable

gelatinous properties.

 

1 1/2 oz. dried carageen

Juice and grated rind of a lemon

1 dessertspoon thick honey

1 pint cold water

1/4 pint double cream

1 egg white

Whipped cream and lemon slices to decorate

 

Place the carageen in a basin and cover with hot water. Leave to soak

for 20 minutes, discard the water and drain the carageen well.  Place in

a saucepan with the lemon juice and rind and honey, pour in the cold

water and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the honey completely,

then simmer for 30 minutes.  Strain the liquid into a basin and allow to

cool completely when it should have the consistancy of a beaten egg.

Whisk the cream until it is thick and fold in.  Whisk the egg white until

it stands up in soft peaks and fold into the carageen mixture.  Rinse a 1

1/2 to 2 pint mould with cold water, pour in the carageen mixture and

chill until set.  Turn out on to a serving dish and serve decorated with

whipped cream and lemon slices.  Serves 4 to 6.

Dried carageen can be obtained from many health food shops and when used

it imparts a fresh flavour without any taste of the sea.

 

 

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 05:39:09 -0000

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Nanna_R=F6gnvaldard=F3ttir?=" <nannar at isholf.is>

Subject: Re: SC - Flummery

 

From: Alderton, Philippa <phlip at morganco.net>

>Anybody have a recipe or three for flummery? Because of its association with

>my beloved Nero Wolfe, I'd dearly love one- also its derivation, if that's

>available.

 

This is how Gervase Markham describes flummery in his English Hus-wife:

 

"From this small Oat-meal, by oft steeping it in water and cleansing it, and

then boiling it to a thick and stiff Jelly, is made that excellent dish of

meat which is so esteemed in the West parts of this Kingdom, which they call

Wash-brew, and in Chesire and Lancashire they call it Flamerie or Flumerie."

 

>From The Art of Cookery by Hannah Glasse:

 

"To make French Flummery:

Take a quart of cream, and half an ounce of isinglass, beat it fine, and

stir it into the cream. Let it boil softly over a slow fire a quarter of an

hour, keep it stirring all the time; then take it off, sweeten it to your

palate and put in it a spoonful of rose water, and a spoonful of

orange-flower water; strain it, and pour it into a glass or bason, or what

you please, and when it is cold turn it out. It makes a fine side-dish. You

may eat it with cream, wine, or what you pleas. Lay round it baked pears. It

both looks very pretty, and eats fine."

 

Mrs. Glasse also has a couple of recipes for hartshorn flummery.

 

As to the origins of the name, this is what I found in Cupboard Love by Mark

Morton:

"People who are not from Wales have great difficulty reproducing certain

Welsh consonants; as a result, the Welsh word llymru was rendered into

English not only as flummery but also as thlummery, the latter most easily

said after a trip to the dentist. Flummery, of course, prevailed over

thlummery and from the early seventeenth to the mid eighteenth century the

word referred, like the original Welsh term, to a sour jelly made by boiling

oatmeal with the husks. In the mid eighteenth century, flummery also

developed two new meanings: it became the name of a sweet dish made of milk,

flour, and eggs, and simultaneously it came to mean empty praise or

gibberish. In this, flummery underwent the reverse development of the word

trifle, whose original sense was idle tale but which also came to denote a

dish of sponge-cake and cream."

 

Nanna

 

 

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:17:39 EDT

From: LrdRas at aol.com

Subject: Re: SC -gelatinous properties, was chessboards

 

phlip at morganco.net writes:

<< but the only reference to flummery I have >>

 

Here's another for you:

 

flum*mery (noun), plural -mer*ies

 

[Welsh llymru]

 

First appeared 1623

 

1 a : a soft jelly or porridge made with flour or meal

 

   b : any of several sweet desserts

 

 

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 19:31:30 -0400

From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC -gelatinous properties, was chessboards

 

LrdRas at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another for you:

>

> flum*mery (noun), plural -mer*ies

>

> [Welsh llymru]

>

> First appeared 1623

>

>  1 a : a soft jelly or porridge made with flour or meal

>

>    b : any of several sweet desserts

 

Bzzzzttt. It also appears in Gervase Markham's "The English Hus-Wife",

1615, based on various of Markham's previously published works, so may

be earlier. Also see, IIRC, Elinor Fettiplace, whose receipt book is

dated ~1605 or so.

 

One might try to check sources dating from around that time, or somewhat

earlier, and also located, geographically, in the West Country.

 

Not to pick nits; I have a vested interest in proving the OED, normally

considered the Ultimate Authority on such matters, occasionally, um,

less than accurate.

 

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 09:18:42 +1000

From: Meliora & Drake <meliora at macquarie.matra.com.au>

Subject: SC - Islinglass jelly notes (long)

 

I am not a very experienced cook and this is my first redaction done

directly from the source material.

 

A White Leach (from Dawson, 1596) (from a posting by Anne-Marie) Take a

quart of newe milke, and three ounces weight of Islinglasse, halfe a pounde

of beaten sugar, and stirre them together, and let it boile half a quarter

of an hower till be thicke, stirring them all the while: then straine it

with three spoonfull of Rosewater, then put it into a platter and let it

coole, and cut it in squares. Lay it faur in dishes, and lay golde upon it.

 

My redaction (1/2 quantities of original)

550ml milk (1/2 quart)

30g islinglass in 50ml water (1.5 oz)

120g sugar (1/4 pound)

5 teas rosewater (~ to taste)

 

Place Islinglass in water for an hour or two. It will swell up and form a

gum-like consistency.

Warm milk and sugar. Add islinglass. Stir. As soon as the islinglass starts

being incorporated into the milk mixture it separates the milk. (I have

tried this when the milk is hot, cold, warm, directly added the islinglass

crystals etc, the milk ALWAYS separates)

While stirring, boil the mixture for 7.5 minutes. (I ended up boiling it for

15 mins). During this time the islinglass will let off a VERY strong (and

IMHO quite distasteful) fish smell. Also the curds will break up and become

very small.

Remove from heat and add Rosewater. Then Strain and let set overnight. I

strained my curds and whey through cheescloth and made three batches. One of

whey only. One of curds only. And one of a mixtue of curds and whey.

When set cut into squares and gild with gold. (I deliberatly didn't bother

with this step).

The next morning, all three dishes had set into quite a firm jelly that

could easily be sliced. It appeared firmer than gelatine, but that could be

accounted for in the quantity of islinglass I used. They were all opaque

white (with a yellowish tinge).

 

The next night I took all three dishes to a local meeting and had 24 people

to taste-test them.

 

The curds and the curds/whey mixture were both quite grainy in texture. The

whey was quite smooth and creamy in mouth-feel. Texture-wise the whey only

won hands down. The grainy texture was considered far too alien to be

pleasurable.

 

Taste-wise, the curds tasted like "sweet fat". The curds/whey mix and the

whey only tasted like "creamy and sweet with an aroma of rosewater and an

unidentifiable tang - lemonish but not quite". (Hmm, the slightly yellow

colour may have help attribute the unidentified taste as lemonish) The whey

only mixture was considered to be more silken in feel and taste and again

won hands down.

 

Of my 24 people, 19 prefered the whey, 5 refused to try any, and one

disliked the taste of all of them.

 

Actually there were two who did not like the taste. The other was me!!

Unfortunately the tang in the dish reminded me of the rather powerful fish

odour while cooking. No-one else felt that the dish tasted even remotely

"fishy" and I have even been asked to make it for an event "someday".

 

well, YMMV with these notes. But if anyone else wishes to do any

experimenting with this dish, please let me know. I would love to hear how

anyone else tackles this !!!

 

Meliora

meliora at macquarie.matra.com.au

 

 

Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 18:53:14 -0400 (EDT)

From: alysk at ix.netcom.com

Subject: SC - White Leach Recipe

 

A WHITE LEACH

 

The Good Huswifes Jewell, Thomas Dawson, 1596

 

Take a quart of newe milk, and three ounces weight of Isinglasse,

halfe a pound of beaten suger, and stirre them together,

and let it boile half a quarter of an hower till it be thicke,

stirring them all the while: then strain it with three spoonfull of

Rosewater, then put it into a platter and let it coole, and cut it

in squares.  Lay it fair in dishes, and laye golde upon it.

 

A Modernized Version

 

1 quart of milk, whole or 2%

3-4 packages of Knox unflavored gelatin

1 to 1 1/3 cups sugar

1 1/2 (or more) tablespoons of rosewater

 

Take a quart of milk (4 cups).  Put 1 - 1 1/2 cups of that milk in a

bowl and sprinkle the packages of gelatin over the milk, stirring it

in as you sprinkle.  While the gelatin is softening (approximately five

minutes), heat up the remaining milk.  It needn't come to a boil

since you are using modern gelatin.  Add the sugar and stir until it is

dissolved.  When the gelatin is softened scrape it into the milk

and sugar mixture and stir until it is thoroughly dissolved. Add as much

flavoring as you like.  Pour into a glass or metal pan and set

it in the refrigerator to cool.  Cut into one inch cubes when set.

 

Variations:  Use saffron for coloring and orange flower water for

flavoring.  Puree strawberries or raspberries for flavor and color.  

Be sure to strain out all the seeds before adding the fruit to the

milk.  Add the fruit after you have heated the milk or the color may

change radically.  You can arrange different-colored cubes into

attractive designs such as a checkerboard.  Place a small fruit such

as a cherry or raspberry on top of each cube just before it has finished

setting but is firm enough so that the fruit doesn't sink to the

bottom.

 

You may use more than four packages of gelatin but that is sufficient

to adequately set a quart of milk.  (One package is supposed

to set two cups of liquid.)  Should you make a mistake (such as

forgetting to add the sugar) you can scrape all the jellied milk back

into a pan, re-heat to liquify it, add whatever you forgot, and chill it

again.

 

Alys Katharine

 

 

Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 20:31:24 EDT

From: allilyn at juno.com

Subject: Re: SC - Recipe Challenge again??? with period gelatin

 

I happened to have open my file on jellied dishes, so, since the nice

lady not on the list--perhaps we'll lure her?--wants to make a jellied

dish, try this from Sabina Welser's Cookbook, translated by Valoise

Armstrong, and found on the internet at Duke Sir Cariadoc's site.

 

181 In the year of our Lord 1548 on the 25th of January the master cook

Simon, cook for the counts of Leuchtenberg, instructed me to prepare jellied fish in the following manner

 

        First he took a pike weighing two pounds and skinned it and cut

slashed notches into it and divided it into pieces. He had also

previously prepared a dish with aspic [with] two trout, each weighing

about one pound. He scaled them a little on the back, afterwards shaping

them prettily so that the head and tail stood up high and he cooked them.

He put water into a pan over he fire, let it boil, also salted it, also

poured some vinegar over the trout, after that laid the trout in the

broth, so that the broth covered them well, afterwards let them simmer.

Do not, however, allow them to cook too quickly or else they will not

stay erect. They become entirely blue. And let the trout remain in the

broth for three hours and they them afterwards on a pewter plate. After

that he put the pike in a pan, put a little salt therein and one quarts

of Neckar wine and let it come to a boil. Next he put into it somewhat

more than one quart of isinglass water, also saffron, pepper, sugar, as

much of each as he felt was right. He let it cook very slowly over a

small fire and skimmed the froth with a skimming ladle, after that

strained the broth into a pot and laid the pike in a dish and let the

broth run three times through a wool or canvas sack, so that it became

nice and clear. Following that he poured it on the pike but did not allow

the bowl to get too full and let it stand until the following day. After

that he took the bowl in which he had put the two trout and poured into

it about two fingers high of broth from the jellied fish. Do not over

fill it. Also reserve a good part of the broth for the next day. Then

prepare white, yellow, brown, black, green as follows. First the white

color which is made like so: Pound almonds small and strains them with

isinglass water, that is the white color. Then take the white color and

color it yellow, then it is yellow. After that take trysolita [19], which

is a brown cloth, and lay the cloth in isinglass water and wring it out,

then it becomes brown. The black is made like so: Take rye bread and

toast it well on a grill, then pound it into a powder and strain it with

isinglass water, then it becomes black. After that take a handful of

spinach or chard and pound it in a mortar and strain it with isinglass,

then it becomes green. Afterwards send it to a painter and let a bowl in

which there is no fish be painted with the five colors, however you would

like it, with coats of arms or plants. Everything can be eaten. The aspic

should become firm beforehand, before you paint upon it. Afterwards, when

that which you want has been painted, also letters, then set the two

trout into it and pour the remaining broth over it, until the broth is as

full as you would like it. And then let the aspic become firm, then it is

ready.

 

Allison,     allilyn at juno.com

 

 

Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 22:39:45 -0500

From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Pig slaughtering-OOP

 

Patrick Hood wrote:

> Also, how well do jellied meats go over at events?  I thought pickled

> herring was tame but have found few southerners who will try it.  I would

> guess pork jellos would be seen as even worse.

 

Hmmm. It's a tough call. My own experience has been that people will eat

foods that _contain_ meat or fish-flavored gelatin, if they can convince

themselves that the dish itself does not actually _consist_ of meat or

fish gelatin. So, the jelly-glazed brawn with mustard is okay, but a

tournesole blue jelly quivering up at you on the plate tends, around

here, to get something of a lukewarm reception. On the other hand,

gelatin being basically pure protein, it can be pretty rich when

concentrated enough to be firm; even for people who like the stuff, how

much can you eat? I don't think it's necessarily a comment on either the

quality of the dish or the sophistication (or lack thereof) of the

diners' tastes. It's just that a little goes a long way.

 

You  might try it as an integral part of another dish, like, say, the

jellied brawn mentioned above. In late period this would have been made

from a boned-out whole small pig. For SCA feast purposes, this would be

something like a boneless piece of fresh ham with some skin on it,

brined, rinsed and boiled like corned spareribs, then pressed into a

mold, skin side down, and covered with the reduced cooking stock. You

can then chill it all, and you have the option of removing it from the

mold and coating it with more gelatin layers. It is served cold, in

slices. Then you can tease the diners and suggest that if they don't

want to eat it, it's probably that they're too wimpy to try the mustard

you made for it.

 

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 21:55:54 -0500

From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Pig slaughtering-OOP

 

Liam Fisher wrote:

> Yeah, it's not something normally served and it falls into the "strange

> food" category, so most people will just taste, not eat it.

 

A shame, too, since I believe the original postor was referring to

feeding such dishes to folks in Meridies (at least I thought so). Seems

to me a chilled fish jelly (or meat or poultry) would be extremely

refreshing on a hot afternoon.

 

> I was reading through the jelled foods from platina, and I like the looks of

> the fish gelatin that used the whole pike to make the gelatin.  Pike's not a

> bad fish and it's not a strange tasting fish, I might try that myself, but

> it's not feast food in my book because it'll almost all come back, but it IS

> water soluble, but why waste the pike?

 

Now, bearing in mind that I don't have the recipe in front of me, I do

think something that is like pieces of fish suspended in jelly might be

preferable over just the jelly (I suspect it would have a lot of the

character and flavor of gefilte fish, often served cold in a similarly

jellied stock). I would say that you need the jelly to be sufficiently

flavorful in its own right that the fish meat itself will no longer

necessarily add flavor, _and_ it needs to be so flavorful that it will

seem flavorful even when cold (warm foods' flavors are easier to pick up

with the taste buds than cold foods', which is why you tend to have to

season foods to be served cold more highly than similar warm foods. And

once you reach that point, the chances are that most of the flavor of

the dish will be in the jelly rather than the flesh anyway. Then there's

the fact that pike is a moderately bony fish, especially for those not

familiar with the anatomy: you can't just lift off two flat

mostly-boneless fillets off the sides. If you want boneless fillets (and

pike have those funky y-shaped bones like carp and shad, too!), you

actually get _five_ of them, not hugely symmetrical -- three from the

back and two sides above the dorsal fin, and two from either side of the

tail section below/behind the dorsal fin. A solution for those not up to

the challenge of deboning a pike either in the kitchen or at the table

is to simply cook most of the flavor and the nutritional value into a

jelly, and throw away what amounts to an empty husk of overcooked fish

muscle tissue. It would also be essential to use as little added liquid

as you can get away with, I suspect. Even when you roast or steam a

whole fish you get some juice which actually begins to congeal on the

platter while you're eating it; it seems a shame to dilute the protein.

 

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:37:33 -0400

From: margali <margali at 99main.com>

Subject: SC - Colored Broth without Fire

 

I was just looking at Colored Broth, from 'Take a Thousand Eggs

or More' with an eye towards making it for the Gilded Pearl

potluck in a couple of weeks, and was struck by something odd.

 

Take a Thousand Eggs or More by Cindy Renfrew, pp 13

"

As you will note, there are some inconsistencies in this recipe.

For instance, how are we to thicken this dish with rice if we are

to prepare it with-owt fyre? Also, we are instructed to ley of

euery a leche in a dysshe, and yet the recipe is called a sew or

broth. The end result is a colored rice pudding that will set

like glue and adhere to an inverted plate, making posible its use

in food sculpture, if little else. Saffron has been added here as

a coloring agent, since we are vaguely instructed to make one

part yellow. Two similar recipes appear in Du Fait de Cuisine

[1420, #9 and #28]: both are thickened with wheat flour, instead

of rice, and use much more vivid colors than those used here -

saffron for gold, alkanet for gules [red], and turnsole for azure

[blue].

 

1.5 cups strained almond milk, made with water

.5 cup raw rice

2 tbsp sugar

.25 tsp clove powder

.25 tsp mace powder

2 cubebs, ground [I got a smidge less than one eighth of a tsp]

1 tsp cinnamon

2 tbsp white wine

1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped

2 tbsp red wine

pinch saffron [about 8 threads]

 

Heat the almond milk to boiling in a 1 quart sauce pan. Add rice,

cloves, mace, cubebs and cinnamon. Reduce heat and cook until

rice is soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Process in a

blender until smooth.

 

Divide the mixture into 3 equal parts in 3 small mixing bowls.

Leave one part plain. To the second add saffron and white wine.

Stir

 

Grind the parsley to a paste in a blender. Squeeze out the

parsley juice through a strainer. Discard the pulp. Add the

parsley juice and red wine to a third of the almond mixture.

Stir. The mixture should be tinted green. Set aside.

 

Chill all three parts in the refrigerator for one half hour or

until set. When ready to serve, place a small slice of each in a

dish.

 

makes about 1 cup.

"

 

Here is the translation of the original she was working with:

78. Colored Broth without fire. Take 4 lbs of almonds, & lay in

Water over all, and blanch them, and on the morrow grind them

very well, and draw thereof a thick milk: then take Rice, and

wash them clean, and grind them well, & draw them up with the

Milk through a strainer, and put it in a bowl, & part it in the

vessel, and put in all white Sugar, and every vessel Cloves,

Maces, Cubebs and powdered Cinnamon: And let that one part be

white, that other yellow and that other green with parsley: and

lay of each a slice in a dish and look that Milk be mixed with

wine, and that other with Red wine.

 

Has anybody actually tried following the directions in the

original, and mixing the almond milk with rice flour cold? [the

part about washing and grinding the raw rice. It never mentions

cooking or cooked rice.] Another question - why the red wine with

the parsley? It never really specifies that the red wine goes to

the green bit, and you can extract saffron into a small amount of

red wine and get a slightly pinkish tinge to the yellow [I did it

in a batch of rice yesterday to see what color it comes out] that

in the right amount is pretty nominal. When I did it with the

parsley, I got khaki.

 

margali

Bored and equipped with too many cooking ingredients I really

shouldn't be eating right now ;-)

 

 

From: "a5foil" <a5foil at ix.netcom.com>

To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] blue food

Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 22:59:54 -0400

 

Olwen asked:

> Ok I'll bite.  Where do you get white gelatine and black carrots?

>

> Olwen

 

White (well, OK, sort of cloudy, whitish, murky) gelatine in the period

recipes I've seen came from hooves and trotters and other cartilage and

bones cooked until mostly dissolved in water or broth. When cooled, it turns

vaguely white. Blend in some almond milk before the mixture gels, and it

gets much whiter.

 

Thomas Longshanks

 

 

Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 14:20:55 -0800 (PST)

From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Festival of the Rose Pixs

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

 

--- Olwen the Odd <olwentheodd at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Arte~thank you for posting pictures.  You are

> wonderful.  Tell me about the

> almond jello thing.

 

From John Murrell, "A Daily Exercise for Ladies and

Gentlewomen"

 

A LEACH OF DIVERS COLOURS IN THE FRENCH FASHION

 

Lay halfe a pound of Jordane Almonds in colde water,

the next day blanch and beate them in a stone morter,

put in some good Damaske Rose-water into the beating

of them, when they be very fine draw them through a

strainer with a quart of sweete mild from the Cowe,

and set on a chafing dish of Coales, with a piece of

Isinglasse, a piece of whole Mace and Nutmeg

quartered, a Graine of Muske tyed in a piece of lawne,

when it groweth thick, take off the fire, and take out

your whole spices, and let it runne through a strainer

into a broad and deepe dish, and when it is colde, you

may

so slice it and serve it in.  If you will colour any

of it, Saffron is for yellow, greene Wheat for green,

Turnsole is for red, and blew bottles in corne give

their own colour.

 

Madge Lorwin's redaction:

 

1/4 pound blanched almonds

6 tbsp rose water

1 tbsp unflavored gelatin

2 cups rich milk or half and half

1 large piece of whole mace

1/2 nutmeg, cut up

2 drops essence of musk

2 tbsp sugar (optional)

 

Grind the almonds fine and mix with three tbsp of rose

water; soften the gelatin in the remaining rose water.

Put the milk, ground almonds, mace, nutmeg, and musk

into a quart-size saucepan and bring it to just under

a boil.  Lower the heat to simmer, and cook for

fifteen minutes, stirring every five minutes.  Add the

sugar and the softened gelatin and stir until the

mixture just begins to thicken.  Remove from heat and

strain the leach through a fine-mesh sieve or

cheesecloth into a glass cake or pie dish.  Set the

mixture in the refrigerator until the leach sets

firmly.  To serve, cut the leach into small squares or

diamonds and pile them lightly in a chilled serving

dish.

 

My quick and completely OP version:

 

One box Asian almond flavored gelatin [5 oz]

8 cups water

One box Jello in color you want [5 oz]

1 piece of whole mace

1/2 piece of whole nutmeg

1 tsp rosewater

 

Boil almond gelatin according to package instructions,

with mace and nutmeg. Take out mace and nutmeg. Add

Jello and rosewater. Put into jello mold and chill.

 

I originally planned on making the Lorwin redaction,

but I ran out of time and energy. I also couldn't find

food-grade musk.  While I was trying to decide if I

should try to make the dish or just forget it, this

quick and OP version occured to me and I decided to

try it.

 

I had ordered a sun shaped copper jello mold, but it

didn't arrive in time [it still hasn't arrived], so I

went with a mold I had that was sort of sun-esque.  I

also originally wanted to put the sun shaped yellow

jello on a layer of purple colored jello, but the

cookie sheet that I planned to use for this got used

for another dish, so I put the jello on a bed of

purple cabbage instead.  Not as I envisioned it, but

that's life.

 

Huette

 

 

Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 12:30:41 -0400

From: "Christine Seelye-King" <kingstaste at mindspring.com>

Subject: [Sca-cooks] Galyntyne

To: "SCA Cook's List" <SCA-Cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

Here are some observations about the origins of 'galantine' from Curye on

Inglyshe.  It seems to infer that what the French meant to be a

Thickened fish gelatine became misunderstood by the English and morphed into a

sauce thickened with breadcrumbs with the spice galangale added.

A bad in-period redaction? Bad translation? A classic case of the British

not understanding a French sauce?

You decide -

Christianna

 

> From Curye on Inglyshe's Glossary:

 

galyntyne n. (1) jellied juices of meat or fish is the basic meaning (Fr.

galantine, galatine, Lat. galatina) but since this was further thickened

with bread crumbs and spiced, the term was transfered to the sauce IV 130t,

131t (?). - It is not clear that any of the recipes included here are of the

basic type: GALANTINE, I 51, makes no specification, and note that III 24

FRESCH LAUMPREY is to be served cold but the 'galentyn' hot.  This may or

my not mean that the fish was kept in a jellied state until it was served,

at which time the jellied sauce was heated up.(<snip> Hodgkin also concluded

that 'in galentyne', as against 'galyntyne sauce', meant 'in gelatine'.)

 

galentyne(2) a spiced sauce hickened with bread crumbs, usually containing

galangale - probably as a result of false etymology; in some MS versions of

IV 131 the two words are confused II 68, 69, etc.~ (3) alternative name for

the spice(s) alone or with breadcrumbs II 30, 31, etc

GALYNTYNE IV 142, sauce resembling the FR cameline; <snip>

 

IV 131  Laumprouns in galyntyne. Take laumprouns and scalde hem; see(th)

hem.  Meng powdour galyngale and some of the broth togyder & boile it, & do

(th)erto powdour of gynger & salt.  Take thelaumprouns & boile hem, & lay

hem in dysshes, & lay (th)e sewe aboue & serue fort.

 

IV 142 Galyntyne.  Take crustes of brede and grynde hem smale.  Do (th)erto

powdour of galyngale, of canel, of gyngyuer, and salt it; tempre it vp with

vyneger, and drae it vp (th)urgh a straynour, & messe it forth.

 

<the end>



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