roast-pork-msg - 1/21/07
Cooking pork roasts. Medieval recipes.
NOTE: See also the files: roast-meats-msg, pork-msg, pig-to-sausag-art, Whole-Pig-Fst-art, whole-pig-msg, organ-meats-msg, larding-msg.
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This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 05:38:02 -0500
From: Maddie Teller-Kook <meadhbh at io.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Spices and sensitive palates
My favorite recipe using pork is the Arista from "The Fine art of
Italian Cooking" by Bugliali. He aludes to this dish being from the
15th Century tho he doesn't show the actual documentation. I put this
recipe in the 'period=ish' category. Basically, it is a pork loin,
seasoned with:
slice 10 garlic cloves and mix with salt (I use kosher salt), freshly
ground black pepper, fresh rosemary. Mix these together. split the
loin, put half on the bottom half of the loin, add 10 whole black
peppercorns... put the top half of the loin on top, tie with butchers
cord. Cut a number of slits all over the roast. Take the rest of the
mixture and coat the roast pushing the seasoning (especially the garlic
slivers) into these slits. Drizzle some olive oil in a pan, place the
pan in a preheated oven (to 350 deg. F) for a few minutes to heat the
oil. Add meat to the pan. Cook until done. I prefer mine still juicy
but not pink. Slice thin and serve as part of an antipasto. This is one
of those meat dishes that tastes just as good cold as hot.
meadhbh
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 15:23:49 -0400
From: Aine of Wyvernwood <sybella at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Pork Roasting
My lord, one of the ways I check for temperature - and yes I own a meattemp
thing, it's here ..... somewhere.... - is to just stick my favorite knife down
into the thickest part, juice will run out...the color is one way, another is to
let the knife sit there a minute or so, pull it out. If the blade is hot enough
to ''burn'' yer finger then most likely the inside is done as well. tis a silly trick but useful over a campfire, when one cannot shred, or slice or whatever...
so far, it has worked everytime...note the so far...
aine
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 15:09:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tyrca at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Spices and sensitive palates
Tyrca here.
All this discussion about pork roasts is about to send me to the store,
and see if the pork prices are somewhere in my wallet range (yum!)
When we were in Germany about 5 years ago, a German friend of mine told
me the best to cook a pork roast. I have not seen a recipe, this was really
just discussion that I later took to the kitchen and tried out.
In a large roaster pan or dutch oven, place roast, two large onions
chopped, about 8 juniper berries, and a small handful of caraway seeds, then
fill pan with 2 or 3 inches of water, and roast in a 350 degree F oven,
basting periodically. My favorite part is the way the onion-flavored water
causes the top of the roast to brown and crackle as it cooks. I have never
had a sandwich made from this roast, because no matter how many (or how few)
people, I feed, there are never any left-overs.
Tyrca
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 15:34:27 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Cormarye
Michael F. Gunter wrote:
> Hmmm! What source is Cormarye from? It sounds like it would be a perfect first
> course for my 12th Night feast. If I can get pork butt fairly inexpensively
> I think it would be wonderful for the "Commoners Course".
>
> Gunthar
Curye on Inglysche --
"IV. The Forme of Cury, #54:
Cormarye. Take colyaundre, caraway smale grounden, powdour of peper and
garlec ygrounde, in rede wyne; medle alle 6ise togyder and salt it. Take
loynes of pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf,
and lay it in the sawse. Roost it whan 6ou wilt, & kepe 6at 6at fallith
6erfro in the rostyng and see6 it in a possynet with faire broth, &
serue it forth wi6 6e roost anoon."
I see this as a marinated roast, with the marinade and the pan juices
made into a sauce with additional broth. It might be the ultimate
fighter's dish.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 09:06:35 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Pork Roasting
Mike C. Baker wrote:
> Adamantius (Philip & Susan Troy) wrote:
> > On a slightly tangential note, I frequently serve roast
> > pork loins at events, and refuse to cook them to the
> > bone-dry plywood stage almost invariably called for in most
> > cookbooks.
>
> Covered pan? "Bagged"? Laboriously basted?
I roast a pork loin in several different ways, but I think my favorite
method for event purposes is a simple, real roast, or as close as it
gets in a modern kitchen. Generally this means I sear the meat in very
hot saute pans or on the infamous pancake griddle, season them with
coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, and roast them in a 400 degree F.
oven. A few months ago we served a feast with about six or eight meat
dishes, so we cut whole, boned loins into four (roughly two-pound)
portions, first cutting them in half into two segments, and then
carefully splitting each half so there was fat and lean in each piece.
We rolled and tied these, and, when cooked, they sliced into nice little
2.5 inch medallions. It would have been considered just slightly skimpy
but for the presence of haggis, saumon gentil, cig oen a mel (Welsh
honey-basted meat, in this case chicken), mussels, and mincemeat chewets
made with emphasis on the meat. This is in addition to egg, cheese, and
vegetable dishes.
The pork got et with Sauce Robert, made from caramelized shredded
onions, extra-fine matzoh [cake] meal toasted brown (an excellent source
for extra-fine bread crumbs, BTW), white wine vinegar, Dijon mustard,
reduced brown pork stock made from the roasted bones of the pork loins,
and the deglazed pan juices from the meat. This would be more in the
Taillevent tradition than the La Varenne style of this sauce, which
apparently features butter and capers, which is equally good, but
different.
> My favorite method for pork loin involves a paper bag,
> oil, spices, and long, slow, roasting. Considering other
> uses of parchment in "antique" cookery, d'ya think that
> a parchment envelope could be used for the same purpose?
> (I've been cooking many years, but am still trying to
> learn more about traditional / "ancient" techniques...)
I'm more inclined to roast the meat quickly, but this is largely a
policy adopted from the need to free up not-quite adequate oven space at
events. Both methods work well, and the advantage of a slow roast is
that there is less shrinkage of the meat as it cooks. My major objection
to the methods involving bags is that the meat tends to steam or braise
to some extent, and I do expect there to be a difference between
something that is dry-roasted in an oven, and braised in a pot. Many
people have no problem with this, though.
> > Trichinosis parasites and their eggs are killed at
> > 137 degrees F. internal temperature, at which point
> > the meat is still pretty rare. I generally cook it to
> > an internal temperature of 150 degrees, technically
> > medium. Some people do become alarmed in spite of
> > this, and have been known to complain that the meat
> > wasn't sufficiently dead to their taste. It has juice.
> > It has flavor. Bad cook!
>
> As a relative dabbler and culinary heretic, I do not even
> own a meat thermometer. In particular with the "bagged"
> pork loin, experience, proper timing and oven temperature,
> and observation (is the surface of the roast a uniform
> nut-brown? are the carved slices / pulled shreds tender and
> moist, juicy but without bright pink color or running blood?)
> tell me everything that I need to know, at least for my own
> consumption. (Opening the bag before the cooking time has
> completed is one of the most certain ways to spoil this
> particular dish.)
>
> Given that there is still some risk, just how important is
> the use of thermometric measurement as opposed to eyeball
> and experience?
The answer is right there in the question...yes, there is still some
risk when you don't use a thermometer. But, there is also some risk when
you do, if it isn't properly calibrated, or if you misread it, or if you
don't do any of the various things that would catch temperature
variances between, say, the front and the back of the oven, or top or
bottom shelves. If you use a thermometer, you need to be sure you use it
correctly. For the truly experenced, by which I mean, say, a roast cook
for a large hotel or restaurant, (and I myself don't fall into this
category) a thermometer might not be necessary. For ordinary humans it
seems to be quite helpful in avoiding both danger and embarrassment. I
like the little quick-register thermometers that look like a ball-point
pen with a dial the size of a nickel on the end. They cost anywhere from
5 to 10 bucks, but are worth it, in my opinion.
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:09:43 -0700
To: "Mark Harris" <mark_harris at risc.sps.mot.com>
From: jtn at cottagesoft.com (Terry Nutter)
Subject: Re: Cormarye
>Greetings Katerine,
>
>I would love to get this recipe/redaction from you, either by email
>or on the list. It sounds good and from the name I assume it is
>medieval.
Here it is, as copied from my recipes booklet; I hope you enjoy it as much
as I do!
Cormarye
(Curye on Inglysch, Forme of Cury 54, 109)
This is another, very different roast pork with sauce. It is almost more
marinaded than covered, and the sauce is a very different, more savory
sauce. This is probably my favorite roast pork dish.
Receipt:
Take colyaundre, caraway smale grounden, powdour of peprr and garlec
ygrounde, in rede wyn; medle alle thise togyder and salt it. Take loynes
of pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf, and lay it
in the saws. Roost it whan thou wilt, & kepe that that fallith therfro in
the rostyng and seeth it in a possynet with faire broth, & serue it forth
with the roost anoon.
Take coriander, caraway ground small, pepper, and ground garlic, in red
wine; mix all these together and salt it. Take raw loins of pork and flay
off the skin, and prick it well with a knife, and lay it in the sauce.
Roast it when you will, and keep what falls from it in the roasting and
boil it in a small pot with fair broth, and serve it forth with the roast
anon.
Amounts as I make it:
3 lb bone-in pork loin roast 1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground coriander 1 clove garlic, minced fine
1/4 tsp caraway, ground 1/2 bottle red wine
1/2 tsp pepper 1 c chicken broth
Step-by-step:
1. In a roasting pan, combine coriander, caraway, pepper, salt, garlic, and
wine.
2. Prick skin of meat; add to roasting pan.
3. Preheat oven to 450š.
4. Put in roast; reduce heat immediately to 350š.
5. Roast the meat in the sauce for 30 to 35 minutes per pound.
6. Remove from oven, and take meat out of pan.
7. Add broth to sauce and drippings, and simmer briefly.
8. Slice roast and place in sauce.
Notes:
For some reason I cannot fathom, every time I've had this away from home,
they've served the meat without the sauce. Error! Don't do this. The
sauce is wonderful.
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:59:32 -0500
From: "Gedney, Jeff" <Gedney at executone.com>
Subject: RE: SC - for bread-smearing
> Oh goody, the doctor just told my wife she is to eat at least a clove of
> garlic each day, appropriately mixed into some other food. Since she
> likes garlic anyway, this will be great.
Last night I had a perennial favorite of the house:
A pork roast, rolled in a dry marinade of spices, dry mustard, garlic,
and salt, and cooked in a roasting pan filled with baby carrots, onion
quarters, potatoes and whole, unpeeled cloves of garlic ( toss the
veggies with olive oil and salt as there will not be enough fat from the
pork for the veg). I used 2 whole heads of garlic, for the four of us,
and the first thing finished were the roasted vegetables ( Actually the
garlic - which had roasted in the pan and fried in the fat and oil,
yielding a sweet and candy like brown confection, with a chewy
taffy-like texture -- WOW. Next were the caramelized carrots, there is
nothing I can say here... just DEVINE)
I know the recipe is OOP, but...
You know you are doing something right when your 5 year old and your 9
year old chant in unison "More Garlic!! More Garlic!! More Garlic!! More
Garlic!!"
Brandu
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:40:12 -0500 (EST)
From: DianaFiona at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - for bread-smearing
<< You know you are doing something right when your 5 year old and your 9
year old chant in unison "More Garlic!! More Garlic!! More Garlic!! More
Garlic!!"
>>
(Grin) Sounds like my own rallying cry.............
My mom's take on pork roast is yummy also, even for me, and I'm not
usually too much of a meat fan. Salt the roast, rub generously with rosemary,
dot with garlic slices (*LOTS* of garlic slices......... ;-) ), and half
cover with port wine. Roast, uncovering long enough for the meat to brown.
Heavenly!
Ldy Diana
Subject: Re: Re: SC - pork in coriander sauce recipe
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 00:19:35 EDT
From: Gerekr at aol.com
To: stefan at texas.net
from Pleyn Delit, 1st ed.
-----
75 Cormarye
Take Colyandre, Caraway smalle gronden, Powdor of Peper and garlec
ygronde in red wyne; medle alle [th]ise togyder and salt it; take loyn of
Pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf, and lay it in
the sawse; roost [th]erof whay [th]u wilt, & kepe [th]at fallith
[th]erfro in the rosting and see[th] it in a possynet with faire broth, &
serve it forth with [th]e roost anoon. FC 53
Roast Pork with Caraway Sauce
5-7 lb pork loin roast
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 to 1 tsp each coriander and caraway seed
1 cup red wine (or 1/2 cup, if using a clay baker)
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
Ideally, use a coffee grinder for grinding seeds. If you have none, use
a mortar, a blender or a rolling pin, with the seeds between two sheets
of waxed paper. When they are crushed, mix with all other sauce
ingredients, preferably in a blender. The more finely the spices and
garlic can be ground, the more effective the sauce will be.
Prick the loin of pork all over and place in a rack over a roasting
pan. Pour the sauce over it and roast in the usual way, basting with the
juices in the pan from time to time plus, if it seems desirable, wine.
(You may, of course, adapt this to clay=-baking procedures, if youhave a
clay baker.) When roast is done, pour off the drippings into a saucepan
and add a small amount of broth or stock (chicken stock, preferably - or
broth made from pork bones). Stir and bring to a boil; thicken if you
wish. Serve as a sauce for the pork.
----
This is really simple, really easy, really good. "Roast as usual"-- see
Joy of Cooking or something to calculate how hot and how long...
Chimene
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 00:41:19 -0230
From: Mark Simms <msimms at roadrunner.nf.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Introducing myself to the list
Phillppa,
> Got a couple questions- what are-
> 9. A bourbelier of pork, then
Essentially a basted pork roast. I've seen two recipes for it, one from
the Medieval Kitchen (page 108, recipe 52, from Le Viandier) and one in
the Miscellany (http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/meat.html#6, from
Le Menagier de Paris). I used a slightly modified redaction from the
Miscellany.
Due to that #$#% burning down of the original event hall I couldn't cook
the roast there, but had to prepare it before hand at home, and then run
across town and pick it up when it came time to serve it (I didn't put
the roast up on a rack, and ended up with something very akin to a
stewed meat - the end result was delicious, as the roast had been
bubbling in wine for two days :) The only unfortunate part was the
curse of Bappy being called down upon us, but we weathered that fairly
well.
<snip>
Donal
- --
Mark Simms Engineering Student, Class of 2002
Memorial University of Newfoundlan Vice President, 6th St. John's
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:33:18 -0800
From: Maggie MacDonald <maggie5 at home.com>
Subject: SC - Requested Recipes- Pork Roast/Warden Pie-LONG!!
I mentioned some recipes we used at the Maison deSteele Thanksgiving, and
got requests for the recipes, sources, etc. THL Gillian of Lynnhaven
provided me with the all of those tonight. Let me see if I can get them to
look as pretty here as she has on the paper that she gave me. Enjoy!
*************************************************************
Pork Roast with Apricot & Prune Stuffing
by THL Gillian of Lynnhaven
"Allowes de Mutton: Take faire mutton of the Buttes, and kutte hit in the
maner of stekes; And then take faire rawe parcelly, and oynons shred smale,
yolkes of eron sodden hard, and mary or suet; hew all thes smale togidre,
and then case thereto pouder of ginger, and saffron, and stere hem togidre
with thi honde, and ley hem vppe- on the stekes al abrode; and cast
there-to salt, and rolle hem togidre, and put hem on a spitte and roste hem
until the be ynough." "Take a Thousand Eggs or More", vol. 1, Cindy
Renfrow, p. 107 (from the Harleian Ms 4016)
"A-nother manere: Take Fygys, Roysonys, and Porke, and a lytel brede
y-ground y-fere; tak hym vppe, and purt Pepir y-now ther-to, and Maces,
Clowys, and make thin in cofyn, and outte thin comade ther-on." "Take a
Thousand Eggs or More", vol. 2, Cindy Renfrow, p. 215 (from the Harleian
Ms 279)
While not exact, the following recipe uses the same general idea of rolling
a roast with fruit, spices and breadcrumbs. There are other examples using
apricots and prunes instead of figs and raisins.
1 3 lb Pork Roast (loin or shoulder)
4 ft. Butchers string
Stuffing:
1/4 cup Apricots, dried and diced
2 Tbs. Prunes, dried, pitted and diced
3 Tbs. Triple Sec (orange liqueur)
3 Tbs. Onions, chopped
1 cup herbed dry Stuffing (Pepperidge Farm)
1/4 cup Chicken Broth
3 Tbs. Butter, melted
2 tsp. Orange peel, freshly grated
1/2 t