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Food of Classical Rome. Apicius.

 

NOTE: See also the files: Roman-Recipes-art, cb-rv-Apicius-msg, Italy-msg, Roman-hygiene-msg, garum-msg, salt-msg, Byzantine-msg, fd-Byzantine-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

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Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:02:55 -0700

From: "E. Rain" <raghead at liripipe.com>

Subject: SC - RE: sca-cooks V1 #2404

 

Good morning from Eden,

Alys Katherine wrote re gunthar's request for info on Roman foods "If you're

not in any rush about the research, what might

be available in the records about Pompeii and Herculaneum?"

 

Along this line I'd suggest looking at 'Art, Culture, & Cuisine'  by Phyllis

Pray Bober.  (The University of Chicago Press, 1998.) ISBN 0-226-06253-8.

 

I've only had time to skim it so far, but the section on roman cuisine looks

like it has a lot of content re foods from both Pompeii & Herculaneum.  My

first glance was intersecting enough that i plan to use it as a tour guide

for my visit to Pompeii later this year :->

 

Also if you have heating facilities for these "food booths" the tarentine

meatballs from apicius are VERY yummy.

 

Eden

 

 

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:07:25 EDT

From: ChannonM at aol.com

Subject: SC - Roman Recipes LONG

 

Hello everyone,

Bear (I believe)posted earlier requesting info about Roman finger foods (I

think), here is my collections of recipes that have been mostly direct

redactions, some are adaptions based on other Roman recipes. If any of them

are of interest let me know, I'll post recipe. I've also included a

suggestion to use Vehling (gasp) in conjunction with an online Latin version

of Apicius, it's better than nothing for all it's worth.

 

I do have a document in the works that has tips on working with Roman food

(ie substitutions for garum) these tips have been gleaned from discussions on

various lists, personal experience and research. It's too long to put on the

cooks list, but could be available to the Florilegium if anyones interested.

I have to tweak a few things, but other than that, it's useable and as

documented as possible.

 

Moretaria

SalaCattabia

Flat Bread

Green Beans and chickpeas   (An adapted hummous type dish)

Stuffed Chicken with Sauce ala Apicius

Ne Lactucae Laedant/A harmless salad

Ova Elixa/ Hard Boiled Eggs

Phaseoli Virides Frictae/ Fried Green Beans

Porcus Farcimina Mellitum/Honey Pork Sausage (an adaption of an iscia style

dish)

Frumentum/Barley Frumenty

Pernam et Ficus/Ham with Figs

Isicia Amulato ab Aheno/Rissoles with a Thick Sauce in a Metal Casserole

Alicam Vel Succum Tisanai

/Cracked Wheat

Dulcia Domestica/Homemade Sweets

Savillum/Cheesecake

 

In addition, I came across a reference in the Archaeology magazine,

November/December 1990 Dining with the Ancients-by Edith Evans

 

Some of her extrapolations are off slightly in my opinion but she mentions

the following that might be of interest to you.

 

" One example of a site where the study of bones gave an interesting insight

into food consumption was the main baths in the fortress of the Second

Aughustan Legion at Caerleon (Roman Isca) in Britain. The animal remains from

the lowest levels of the principal drain consisted overwhelmingly of chicken

bones with a lesser amount of mutton chops, suggestiong that guests at the

baths wer able to obtain snacks"

 

I can also recall a painting on a wall in Pompei, that was an advertisement

for the occupants ham, it appears the owner of the building or occupant was a

food vendor.I was concentrating on the food of the Roman Army and didn't hold

on to the reference, but it is very popular in books on Vesuvius and Pompei.

 

The full latin text of Apicius can be found at

http://users.ipa.net/~tanker

you could use this in conjuction with the Vehling edition so you could at

least analyze the text as Vehling doesn't give the original latin.

 

here are two good Latin dictionaries on line;

http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/lexica.html

http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/searches.html

 

Here are a few websites on Roman food and related links

http://www.ancientsites.com/xi/interface/bb/readTopic.rage?BB=xi_data/Rome/

bb/main&TT=355

 

>http://www.ancientsites.com/~Caius_Livius

 

Here is a really fun reference for Moretaria (Roman cheese spread) that

someone posted on the Apicius list;

 

The following scene is from Aristophanes' _Peace_. In this scene,

Trygaeus, a crazy old man, is spying on the personification of War. War

makes a "myttotos" (which also happens to be the title of the greek poem

virgil's Moretum is said to be based on!), with each of the ingredients

allegorically representing a city of Greece. Fortunately he can't find

the pestle, required to mash it (and hence Greece) to a pulp.

    This translation comes from Perseus online. The bracketed numerals

indicate line numbers if you want to track down the reference yourself,

say to compare the Greek.

 

 

     War:Enters, carrying a huge mortar.

Oh! mortals, mortals, wretched mortals, how your jaws will snap!

 

 

     Trygaeus:Oh! divine Apollo! what a prodigious big mortar! Oh, what

misery the very sight of War causes me! [240] This then is

the foe from whom I fly, who is so cruel, so formidable, so stalwart, so

solid on his legs!

 

     War:Oh! Prasiae! thrice wretched, five times, aye, a thousand times

wretched! for thou shalt be destroyed this day.

     (He throws some leeks into the mortar. )

 

     Trygaeus: (to the audience. )This, gentlemen, does not concern us over

much; [245] it's only so much the worse for the Laconians.

 

     War:Oh! Megara! Megara! how utterly are you going to be ground up! what

fine mincemeat are you to be made into!

     (He throws in some garlic. )

 

     Trygaeus:   (Aside. )Alas! alas! what bitter tears there will be among

the Megarians!

 

     War:(throwing in some cheese.)[250] Oh, Sicily! you too must perish!

Your wretched towns shall be grated like this cheese. Now let us pour some

Attic honey into the mortar.

     (He does so.)

 

     Trygaeus: (Aside.)Oh! I beseech you! use some other honey; this kind is

worth four obols;be careful, oh! be careful of our Attic honey.

 

     War:[255] Hi! Tumult, you slave there!

 

     Tumult:What do you want?

 

     War:Out upon you! Standing there with folded arms! Take this cuff on the

head for your pains.

 

     Tumult:Oh! how it stings! Master, have you got garlic in your fist, I

wonder?

 

     War:Run and fetch me a pestle.

 

     Tumult:But [260] we haven't got one; it was only yesterday we moved.

 

     War: Go and fetch me one from Athens, and hurry, hurry!

 

     Tumult:I'll hurry; if I return without one, I shall have no cause for

laughing. [etc.]

 

 

Not totally reverent, but amusing!.

 

Hauviette

 

 

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:50:46 EDT

From: ChannonM at aol.com

Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #2409

 

> excerpt from a fictional account of young cleopatra, Cleopatra VII,

>  Daughter of the Nile  Egypt 57 B.C.

>  " The cook put ground meat onto a plate. Several small bowls on a

>  sideboard held salt and other spices.  He pinched some of each, then

>  added a fistful of pine nuts to the meat, mixing it together with his

>  hands.  Then he patted the meat into two flat disks, each the size of his

>  palm.

>  "from a jar he poured olive oil into a pan that was heating on the coals.

>   The oil spit when he dropped in the meat, then began sizzling.... I

>  asked what our meal was called.  It had tasted so good.  'The usual', she

>  said, 'fried dormouse.' "

>  question 1--- did they actually have an equivelent to hamburgers?!  or is

>  this just writer's license?

 

Actually this is very similar to "iscia" type recipes of the Roman food.

Here is my redaction for

Isicia Amulato ab Aheno/Rissoles with a Thick Sauce in a Metal Casserole

The recipe I chose to adapt does not designate which type of meat to use so I

decided to use beef. Beef was not a common meat as it was a work animal and

was rarely found to be other than a tough meat.  However, beef is mentioned

in one recipe  and veal in three more in  Book V Bubula Sive Vitellina/Beef

or Veal,  of the Apicius manuscript (Flower and Rosenbaum).

Original Recipe

Book II Section II-7Isicia Amulata ab Aheno sic facies/Rissoles with a thick

sauce in a metal casserole.

Make as follows;Pound  pepper, lovage, origan, a little silphium, a pinch of

ginger and a little honey blend with liquamen, mix. Pour over the rissoles,

bring to boil. When boiling fast thicken cornflour*and serve. The dish should

be sipped.

* Flower & Rosenbaum,  have substituted cornflour as the thickener of choice

in this recipe. Although I agree with their substitution, the period

thickener was amulum, a wheat or rye starch as corn was not available to the

Roman table.

The original recipe calls for the spices to be cooked in the broth  and the

meatballs to be added. I have chosen to combine the spices, herbs and meat,  

form into meatballs and cook in the liquid ingredients. This choice was one

to facilitate a successful feast dish  for 100, however the choice is up to

the cook and I have used the method of the original recipe as well.

Redacted Recipe

2 lb ground round

3 TB fresh lovage chopped

2 TB fresh oregano chopped

1 1/2 tsp honey

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp asafoetida

1/2 tsp fresh ground black pepper

1 tsp anchovy paste in 2 cups beef broth (when working with this recipe, it

was impossible to have it "boil" with out more liquid. I chose to

incorporate the beef stock to accomodate this)

Combine the spices, herbs and ground meat. Form into 2 inch meat balls. In a

large skillet, heat broth and honey. Add meatballs and cook 10 minutes or

until the meat is no longer pink. Remove the meatballs and set aside. Add 2

tsp cornstarch to 1/2 cup cold water and stir into the broth. Bring to a boil

and stir until thickened. Place the meatballs on a platter and pour gravy

over. Serve garnished with parsley.

 

Hauviette

 

 

Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 10:07:17 -0700

From: Susan Fox-Davis <selene at earthlink.net>

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

Subject: Roman Cookery Websites was Re: [Sca-cooks] Re: exchanging treats,

singles, etc.

 

Mari wrote:

> OOOhhh - obligitory foodie content - anyone have any good Roman cookery

> websites book marked???

 

Let's see...

 

"The Roman Orgy Page" actually part of an Apicius group, good links

[including sites in German and French]

http://www.mysunrise.ch/users/julien.courtois/orgy/index.html

 

Part of a Latin 2 online course, related pages are interesting too

http://www.dl.ket.org/latin2/mores/food/home.htm

 

MORETUM by Virgil - only one recipe, but what a source!

http://virgil.org/appendix/moretum.htm

 

Selene, Caid

 

 

Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:11:53 -0400

From: kattratt <kattratt at home.com>

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: Roman Cookery Websites

 

Mari wrote:

> OOOhhh - obligitory foodie content - anyone have any good Roman cookery

> websites book marked???

 

I have this...

http://www.lewis-kappes.com/LK/Pompeiiana/TheRomanCookery/SOTHEMEALS.htm

 

Nichola

 

 

From: "Kayah" <fairyelf at accessv.com>

To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Question to the group....

Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 22:41:31 -0500

 

> I doubt pirozhki or pierogies made out of sauerkraut is

> period because first of all sauerkraut is German and i'm not sure what the

> shelf life of sauerkraut is but traveling that far could have ruined it.

>

> Misha

 

In Poland, Sauerkraut has a very Polish name: Kapusta Kiszona (trans.

pickled cabbage).. I honestly don't know anything about its periodicity, but

regular cabbage was indeed VERY common for at least the past 1000 years, and

continues to be so :)

 

Kay

 

 

Date: Sat, 17 May 2003 21:35:56 -0400

From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Roman Display, was Sugar Plate Again

 

lilinah at earthlink.net wrote: snipped--

> Indeed. We are aware that it isn't Roman. But i'm at a loss for what

> to do to make something rather special, other than serving good tasty

> food - and other than the sugar plate serving dishes and the "Peach

> Pits", the food will be "period". snipped

 

> But if anyone has any food display ideas for a Roman feast, i'd love to

> hear it. Anahita

 

 

You might try looking at books like

Emily Gowers. The Loaded Table. Representations

of Food in Roman Literature. This is more

gastronomy and not cookery. It doesn't have recipes.

There are a number of these that might give you some

ideas.

Patrick Faas' new book does have recipes:

Around the Roman Table. It might give you some ideas.

 

Johnnae llyn Lewis   Johnna Holloway

 

 

Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 06:58:18 -0500

From: margali <mtraber251 at earthlink.net>

Subject: [Sca-cooks] pig newton / pernam

To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

http://www.geocities.com/aruvqann/pernam.html

 

yay, i finally got my 'pig newton' article webbed=)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Aruvqan, nicknamed Margali

 

 

Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 22:18:56 -0600

From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Book question

To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

>>>

Does anybody have an opinion about A Taste of Ancient Rome by Ilaria Gozzini Giacosa

 

Elewyiss

<<<

 

It's not the be all, end all of Roman cookery, but it has a wider selection

of recipes than just Apicius.  The recipes consist of a transcription of the

original text, a translation and an adaptation.  There is also information

about the menus, dining and food sources.  I find it a nice supplement to

more scholarly works.

 

Bear

 

 

Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 22:04:09 -0400

From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>

Subject: [Sca-cooks] For those interested in Ancient Roman Dining

To: "mk-cooks at midrealm.org" <mk-cooks at midrealm.org>,       Cooks within the

        SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

Jessica's Biscuit is offering the following

[www.ecookbooks.com]

 

     Roman Dining :

A Special Issue of American Journal of Philology

by Gold, Barbara, editor

Paperback - 216 pages Published: June 2005  

Price: $15.96 List: $19.95

You Save: $3.99 (20%)    

 

This special issue of the American Journal of Philology illuminates the

nature and function of food and dining in the Roman world, offering

historical, sociological, literary, cultural, and material perspectives.

The articles collected here explore topics from diverse fields to

analyze Roman culture and material practice, including the dietary

practices and nutritional concerns of the Romans, dining and its links

to ideology during the early imperial period, public banqueting and its

social function in Roman society, and the emphasis placed on the waiting

servant in both domestic and funerary settings.

The American Journal of Philology is renowned for its role in helping to

shape American classical scholarship. Today the Journal has achieved

worldwide recognition as a forum for international exchange among

classicists by publishing original research in Greco-Roman literature,

and culture.

Additional Information: Black and White Illustrations

ISBN: 0801882028 Johns Hopkins University Press; Item Number: 07134

 

You can also find it here

http://www.press.jhu.edu/books/title_pages/8807.html

 

Johnnae llyn Lewis

 

 

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 10:53:20 -0400

From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks]Hagen books and others

To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

<snip>

 

Alcock, Joan P. Food in Roman Britain. Stroud, Gloucestershire, UK and

Charleston, SC: Tempus, 2001. Alcock presents archaeological evidence

for what the Romans ate in Britain. This is not a recipe book.

 

Even earlier -- Wood, Jacqui. Prehistoric Cooking. Stroud,

Gloucestershire, UK and Charleston, SC: Tempus, 2001.

It covers what the prehistoric Celts ate. She talks about the problems

one encounters when attempting to recreate the life of a people who

left no written records.

 

Johnnae llyn Lewis

 

 

Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:30:20 -0400

From: Barbara Benson <voxeight at gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] ancient Roman cookery

To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

I also am fascinated by the Ancient Roman cuisine. I didn't realize

how fascinated I was by it until I looked at my cookbook collection

and realized that I had managed to accumulate quite a few books on the

subject, more so than any other specific period cuisine (except maybe

German).