tent-care-msg – 3/24/12
Care of tents. waterproofing, washing.
NOTE: See also the files: pavilions-msg, p-tents-msg, tent-fabrics-msg, tent-setup-msg, tent-painting-msg, tent-interior-msg, tent-sources-msg.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: daniel_t at gate.net (Daniel Tartaglia)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Help-Getting mold off tents.
Date: 5 Sep 1994 23:58:35 GMT
Our tent got soaked and we didn't do the right thing. Because of our
sloth, our walls now have spots of mold all over them. I used some bleach
on them which killed the mold but the spots remain.
Does anybody know of a product/method of getting mold off of canvas?
Ld. Nicolas Bradwater
From: marisla at aol.com (Marisla)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Help-Getting mold off tents.
Date: 5 Sep 1994 21:39:09 -0400
Rinse your tent off immediately w/ lots of water. The bleach if not
rinsed completely will eat right thru the tent. Ammonia solution should
remove most of the mold. But start first w/ liquid soap and a stiff
brush. If that doesn't work, ammonia and then lots of hot sun as sun is a
natural bleach. - Marisela
From: alisounf at aol.com (AlisounF)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Help-Getting mold off tents.
Date: 6 Sep 1994 17:35:01 -0400
marisla at aol.com (Marisla) writes:
>But start first w/liquid soap and a stiff brush.
Not if the tent is made of certain kinds of sail canvas. Any oil or
grease, which soap is, will cause the natural water repellancy of the
canvas to cease. In other words, it may leak. This no soap advice was from
the maker of my pavillion.
Alisoun Fortescue of Maplehurst
From: 00eenepsa at bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Help-Getting mold off tents.
Date: 8 Sep 94 11:38:05 -0500
Organization: Ball State University
daniel_t at gate.net (Daniel Tartaglia) writes:
> Our tent got soaked and we didn't do the right thing. Because of our
> sloth, our walls now have spots of mold all over them. I used some bleach
> on them which killed the mold but the spots remain.
**Unfortunately, my lord, you've probably ruined your canvas.
Mold begins to eat holes in the fabric and bleach DOES eat holes in the
the fabric, destroying any waterproof qualities it may have had.
You can remove the stains first with vinegar, and if that doesn't
work use diluted, powder laundry detergent. You will then need to
completely re waterproof your tent. Army navy surplus carries a very
heavy duty paint on waterproofing that will do the trick, but you must
let the tent stand to air out for a LOOOOOONG time and apply it several
times. I certainly hope someone has a better suggestion, but in my
experience, that's about it.>
:{ G-frewi
From: folo at prairienet.org (F.L. Watkins)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: waterproofing
Date: 22 Nov 1994 02:44:51 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Thompson's waterproofing a) doesn't always work and b) will always
smell. For a long, long time.
Trust me.
Folo (been there, done that...)
--
Damin de Folo - F.L.Watkins - folo at prairienet.org
Baron Wurm Wald (MidRealm) - Commander Baldwin's (NWTA)
From: david.razler at compudata.com (DAVID RAZLER)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: WaterproofingBetter
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 94 00:09:00 -0400
Organization: Compu-Data BBS -=- Turnersville, NJ -=- 609-232-1245
BM> I've heard of people using stuff like Thompson's Water Seal for
BM>waterproofing their canvas tents, etc. Your impressions?
The absolute best waterproofing and stainproofing for fabric is
ScotchGuard(tm) spray - used in much greater quantity than recommended on
the can.
A half-circle ultra-heavy wool cloak requires a can - which will keep it
clean and the wearer dry for about four years including five wars worth of
sitting around the firepit on wet grass. NO GRASS STAINS
The best method of keeping papers safe and dry during an outdoor event:
1) take one Lands End(tm) original canvas carryall attache or whatever they
call that bag these days.
2) Spray inside and out with ScotchGuard.
3) Take the rest of the war worrying about something else.
Spray the canvas of a director's chair with a good soaking of ScotchGuard.
Watch the rain.
When it stops, shake chair a little and sit down dry.
For extra protection, save the Thompson's for WOOD, not fabric.
Of Note: Drycleaning, which your cloak will eventually will need, removes
ScotchGuard. Buy more and you're good for another half-decade!
NOW BACK TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION:
Unless you go to a 3M wholesaler and buy ScotchGuard for Fabric in a
paintcan and apply with an airgun, you will not be able to afford a full
waterproofing job for a canvas pavillion. Further - if you are going to do
that job, borrow an air pack or SCUBA gear for the inside coat. Keep a fire
extinguisher handy, or do the outside, allow to dry, then turn the tent
inside-out.
David M. Razler
(Aleksandr the Traveller doesn't have any idea what this message is about)
[david.razler at compudata.com]
From: dickeney at access2.digex.net (Dick Eney)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
Date: 9 Mar 1995 20:20:48 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
<ALBAN at delphi.COM> wrote:
>entering into the annual pre-pennsic packing frenzy a bit early, i'd like
>to know:
>i have a pavillion, 15 x 20. the top is all of a piece, which makes it too
>large to shove into a washing machine, even the large industrial kinds.
>the rains last pennsic made this top mildewed. very mildewed. you should
>have seen the hives i got sitting next to the top on the drive home, it
>was so mildewed. question: how do i get rid of this much mildew on
>this large a top? and how do i return the color of the fabric from the
>mildewy gray to a more natural slightly off white?
First off, you don't wait five months to get started -- however, that's
irrelevant now. Find a BIG flat space, and on a day when the weather
report indicates 2-3 days of sunshine spread the thing out, sweep or
vacuum the grossest of the mildew fungus off. (If you get hives just
being near it, better use a vacuum.) Then sprinkle or spray it with a
weak solution of lemon juice (about 2:1) and let that stand in the
sunlight all day, repeat the next day (maybe a third if you're lucky),
and on the afternoon of the last day fold it up and bring it in. For
further details check "Helpful Hints" by almost anybody like Heloise.
|-----Mandarin 2/c Vuong Manh, C.P. (dickeney at access.digex.net)-----|
From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
Date: 10 Mar 1995 02:26:59 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
<ALBAN at delphi.COM> wrote:
>i have a pavillion, 15 x 20. the top is all of a piece, which makes it too
>large to shove into a washing machine, even the large industrial kinds.
>the rains last pennsic made this top mildewed. very mildewed. you should
>have seen the hives i got sitting next to the top on the drive home, it
>was so mildewed. question: how do i get rid of this much mildew on
>this large a top? and how do i return the color of the fabric from the
>mildewy gray to a more natural slightly off white?
The short answer is, Chlorine bleach. This will not only kill
the mildew fungi, it will bleach out the stains. The answer is
lengthened by two considerations:
1. How to apply the bleach to the fabric, and how to keep it
from wiping out the local environment. What you need is a large
flat area on which to lay out the pavilion top and apply the
bleach, from which the runoff won't run off into any local
watercourse. I can't tell from your netid where you are located.
A flat field or vacant lot might work, so long as you can hook up
a hose to the water supply. Spray or sponge the bleach onto the
fabric; wait till the stains disappear; and rinse it off with lots
and lots of water. The bleach will break down after a while, but
in the meantime you want it to be sufficiently diluted that it
doesn't kill anything but the mildew.
2. After that, you will probably want to restore the waterproofing
to the fabric. How you do this will depend on what the
waterproofing was in the first place. ScotchGard? Paraffin wax?
Intrinsically tight weave? Talk to the place that sold you the
fabric, and/or your local hardware store.
And next time it gets mildewed, don't ride in the same
compartment with it if you're allergic to it. Next time you
might stop breathing, and that would never do.
Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin Dorothy J. Heydt
Mists/Mists/West UC Berkeley
Argent, a cross forme'e sable djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu
PRO DEO ET REGE
From: cerdic at mcmi.com (david h corson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 95 10:32:03 EST
Organization: Material Culture Management Inc.
Alban--
you might try spreading it out in the back yard--when the weather is
goint to be decent for a few days, and using a bleach soloution in the
sprayer on your garden hose. I have used one of those jars like they
sell for feading your lawn or flowers, with Tilex or Clorex---it seemed
to work for me.....
Elaina of Oaklawn, Countess, using Lord Cerdic's account
From: Wynn Klosky <klosky at meeker.ucar.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 15:12:40 -0700
Organization: National Center for Atmospheric Research/Boulder, CO
For all those with mildewed tents, I bear tidings...of possible unhappiness.
According to my source at the Denver Tent Company/American Canvas in
Denver, the first-try cure for mildew is to set up your tent and hit it
with the hose and a scrubber to see if you can knock it loose that way.
If this does not work, he says as a LAST result, because this may well
weaken your tent, to try a solution of 3 parts water to
one part chlorine bleach applied to a corner spot -- scrub it out and
rinse VERY well as any bleach left in will cause the fabric to deteriorate.
Allow it to dry THOROUGHLY, and see what the result is before applying to
your entire affected area.
The bad news, he says, is that if it already has *that* smell, the fabric
may already be damaged -- he says it will feel brittle and weak in your
hands. In this case, he says, there is little hope for the recovery of
your pristine tent.
(This is all assuming a natural canvas tent -- I didn't ask about synthetics)
In any case, he says, you should hose the mildew off as best you can as
soon as you can to prevent or lessen fabric damage. And let it dry in the
sun (making sure you've rinsed any Clorox out thoroughly), as evidently
sunpower has some brightening and beastie-killing effects.
Hope this helps,
branwynn ottersby
Caer Galen, the Outlands
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: gyeates at chat.carleton.ca (graham yeates)
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 23:49:09 GMT
From Lady Helen Who shares her Lord's account,
Alban,
At A recent practicum (learning event) we had a class on tent
making from a lady who has made canvas tents all her life (having
learned the craft at a young age from her mother). Her thoughts on
Mildew were thus "Prevention is the Best Way". On bringing a wet tent
home she suggests airing it as well as possible before storing it.
She suggests the basement or the lawn on the next available sunny day.
She Continues:
"Washing with soaps or detergents will usually remove all
waterproofing. Periodically, Dissolve 1/2 cup of baking soda in a
gallon of warm water. Brush LIGHTLY into canvas. RINSE, and let dry
out. ***For Mildew, put 1/2 cup of javex in a gallon of warm water.
Brush lightly into canvas, rinse well, let dry in the sun. ***In
desperation (ONLY), put 1/2 cup soap (NEVER DETERGENTS) in a gallon of
warm water {and proceed as above}. ******THESE LAST 2 TREATMENTS WILL
PROBABLE TAKE OUT MOST OF THE WATERPROOFING *******" (this is quoted
verbatim, all uppercase hers) She went on to suggest retreating with
Aquatite, a waterproofing agent. She of the ladies up here have used
Thompson's Waterseal on their tents with good results too! Good Luck!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Graham A. Yeates Carleton University
And Lady Helen /Helen Dolbey
Email address: gyeates at chat.carleton.ca
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: pre-pennsic packing
From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk)
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 23:00:42 EST
ALBAN at delphi.COM writes:
> entering into the annual pre-pennsic packing frenzy a bit early, i'd like
> to know:
> i have a pavillion, 15 x 20. the top is all of a piece, which makes it too
> large to shove into a washing machine, even the large industrial kinds.
> the rains last pennsic made this top mildewed. very mildewed. you should
> have seen the hives i got sitting next to the top on the drive home, it
> was so mildewed. question: how do i get rid of this much mildew on
> this large a top? and how do i return the color of the fabric from the
> mildewy gray to a more natural slightly off white?
>
> alban, who tries to plan ahead.
Respected friend:
Large lawn+large stiff brush+large bottle mildicide from Janitor's
supplies store+large supply elbow grease+large stack of patches+large
canvas awl+large spool of waxed linen thread= Fixed.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but mildew grows by eating
the fiber it grows on. You've got that much mildew, you've got holes.
Brace yourself.
Yours in service to the Society-
(Friend) Honour Horne-Jaruk R.S.F.
Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf C.O.L. SCA
Una Wicca (That Pict)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: shafer at spdcc.com (Mary Shafer)
Subject: Re: Tent mildew
Organization: S.P. Dyer Computer Consulting, Cambridge MA
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 16:56:33 GMT
We've had a lot of rain here in SoCal recently, with a lot of leaky
roofs, minor flooding, etc. As a result, there are a lot of wet,
mildewy carpets and furniture and a lot of newspaper articles about
dealing with these unusual phenomena.
It appears to me that the _easiest_ way to deal with a mildewed tent
is to take it to a carpet cleaner. Not the kind that comes to your
house and does steam cleaning, but the kind that can really wash/clean
the tent in a tank. They have anti-mildew agents and can deal with
large swaths of fragile wet fabric. Plus, they can scotchguard, if
that's your chosen form of water repellency.
The next easiest seems to be to consult with such people and get
supplies from them.
Good luck!
--
Mary Shafer DoD #0362 KotFR shafer at ursa-major.spdcc.com
URL http://www.dfrc.nasa.gov/People/Shafer/mary.html
From: Peter Valentine <valenti at mailhost.primenet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Tent design
Date: 13 Mar 1995 23:16:04 GMT
> Unto the Rialto does Tariq Yazid bid greetings!
>
> I seek some assistance in matters tently. Last year, my wife and
> I stitched a 10' x 20' pavilion for Pennsic. This year it needs
> to be waterproofed and also we were interested in painting it.
> Does anyone know of any good references where examples of
> medieval tents may be found? We'd like to be at least in the
> neighborhood historically. Also, any ideas on what type of paint
> or dye should be used? The tent is canvas, and I've done some
> artwork on denim jackets with fabric paint, but I have a feeling
> even to do simple piping would be cost-prohibitive to get 50
> small jars of fabric paint that's sold in art supply houses.
> Thirdly, has anyone waterproofed a canvas pavilion? I heard
> Thompson's water seal works, but is there anything better?
As to the paint, I cannot help, but I did just waterproof a
Viking Pavilion with 400 sq ft of canvas using a product called
Surfcoat (or Cerfcoat? can't remember) which I procured through a
local Camping Supply Store. It cost $20.00/gallon and covers
~100 sq/ft per gallon. Be sure to paint your tent first before
waterproofing!
Wolfgang von Hesse
Barony March of Mons Tonitras
From: "K. Schroeder-Laporte" <adelheid at u.washington.edu>
To: ches at tristero.io.com
CC: h-costume at lunch.engr.sgi.com, ansteorra at eden.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996
Subject: Re: Tent cleaning
On Mon, 25 Mar 1996 ches at tristero.io.com wrote:
> Can anyone tell me if it is possible to get a tent dry cleaned? I no
> longer have a yard to clean one out on and the cat that is now gone
> went all over it. What are my options?
>
> Ciao at }\
> Ches at }----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/
> at }/
I don't know how old these stains (smells?) are, but people who breed
animals swear by a product called "Nature's Miracle" for all protein based
stains. It has an enzyme which actually breaks down the urine/fecal
matter (or blood or grass, etc.) and doesn't just cover up the problem. I
am not sure how it will affect your tent fabric, but I have never had any
problems with it damaging any fiber I've used it on. You'll probably have
to re-waterproof it after you're done with it, though.
Oh, you can get this stuff in any pet store. It comes in a white bottle
with red writing. And no, I don't work for the company, I just REALLY
like the product.
kat
Adelheid von Luebeck
Acting Arts & Sciences
College of St. Bunstable
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~stareyed/bunstable/bunstable.html
From: "Maureen Martinez" <Maureen_Martinez at ccmail.us.dell.com>
To: h-costume at lunch.engr.sgi.com, ansteorra at eden.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96
Subject: Re: Tent cleaning
Ches,
You can take it to a car wash, and use the high pressure hose. However, I
do caution against using harsh cleaners, or alot of scrubbing as you may
remove the waterproofing or sealer. (especially when dealing with canvas
pavillions).
We found out the hard way that you should never really wash pavillions as
you cannot replace the original water sealing. -- Thompson's water seal
helps, but is not nearly as effective as pre-treated fabric.
For modren tents, this may not be as big a concern as much of their
water-proofing comes from the synthetic fabric itself. However, take care
not to 'wear the fabric too thin'.
I recommend a trying a 'pet deodorizer' which are available at many grocery
stores and pet supply stores. (You can also get some that have scents to
keep your cat from repeating the incident!)
Good luck!
Jenny Winslow
MKA Maureen Martinez
From: Renee/Faustyna <simard at nucleus.com>
To: ches at tristero.io.com
CC: h-costume at lunch.engr.sgi.com, ansteorra at eden.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996
Subject: Re: Tent cleaning
Dear Ches
I have been in this very predicament. There are a couple of options. Is
there a friends yard you can use for a day or two? Since I don't know
waht part of the country you live in you might also look for someones
garage to set it up in while it has to dry. (Duct tape rocks to the
points where the pegs would have to be driven into the ground!)
It may be possible to find an industrial type cleaner but check with a
plAce that rents out large type tents. They have to clean theirs so they
may clean yours for a fee.
If cleaning it your self remember to use lots of baking soda in the water
to kill the smell left behind by kitty.
Good luck I hope you find the help.
Renee/Faustyna
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 23:54:11 -0600
From: Dennis and/or Dory Grace <amazing at mail.utexas.edu>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Pine Tree Sap
Gwenllian Rhys Talbot asked:
>Anyone have a good recipe or hint as to how you can get pine
>tree sap out of SCA gear? Leather, tents, clothing, etc...
>
>I would like to get it out without damaging the fabrics.
>Any help will be greatly appreciated :-))
Try a little oil of melaleuca (tea tree oil). It will leave a residual
odor, but the odor is fresh and somewhat minty. This stuff is one of the
best mild, non-polar solvents I've ever found.
lo vostre por vos servir
Sir Lyonel Oliver Grace
Bryn Gwlad, Ansteorra
From: "Chris K. Hepburn" <chepburn at calcna.ab.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: How to clean a stinky *TENT*
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 11:14:16 -0600
Organization: Calgary Community Network Assoc.
Okay, since all of you have such wonderful suggestions on how to clean
stuff...here's a challenge for you:
I recently cleaned my basement (read: excavated) and discovered one of my
tents has the unmistakable, pungunt odour of cat urine. I suspect there
may be a connection to my cat...
Anyway, the tent is that rip stop nylon stuff (including the floor). Is
there any way to get the urine smell out of it? I've already tried
"Pine-Sol" but that doesn't seem to be working too well.
If I dunk the entire thing full of bleachy water, will that make the tent
disintegrate?
Any helpful suggestions would be *vastly* appreciated!
Chris
From: aeronstorm at aol.com (Aeronstorm)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to clean a stinky *TENT*
Date: 19 Sep 1998 19:22:12 GMT
Pet stores, Walmart, and some grocery stores have products that are
enzyme-based that will take care of cat urine. These products don't cover the
problem with perfume, they break down the components of the urine (and feces,
blood, etc.). Some of these products will take care of the stain as well as the
odor. There's also a black-light device that's supposed to show you where
there's been a deposit. Since cats' and dogs' noses are more sensitive to odor
than are humans', it's supposed to show you where there are minute traces of
urine that might attract your animals again and again. I've never tried the
thing, so don't know how well it works.
One thing not to use is ammonia (a popular, but useless remedy) because it will
only attract animals.
Ariane
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 13:29:58 -0700
From: Bethany Payne <amanita at jps.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to clean a stinky *TENT*
REI carries a rip-stop sleeping bag cleaner that I would assume also works on
rip stop tents. I purchased some after my cat decided to express his
admiration for my dad -- all over his down sleeping bag. After a quick wash
in the bathtub with the rip-stop cleaner, the smell is no more.
Ais
From: jen-guy at home.com (Jennifer Guy)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to clean a stinky *TENT*
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 19:19:57 GMT
On Sat, 19 Sep 1998 11:14:16 -0600, "Chris K. Hepburn"
<chepburn at calcna.ab.ca> wrote:
>Okay, since all of you have such wonderful suggestions on how to clean
>stuff...here's a challenge for you:
>
>I recently cleaned my basement (read: excavated) and discovered one of my
>tents has the unmistakable, pungunt odour of cat urine. I suspect there
>may be a connection to my cat...
My dear kitties have a habit of showing their disapproval of my lord
on my lord's laundry. A product called "Smells Begone" works
admirably, about 1/4 c. in the washer in conjunction with the regular
laundry detergent.
From: sewingcntrl at earthlink.net (Elisee du Lyonnais)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to clean a stinky *TENT*
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:49:30 -0500
Organization: Merlion's Tail
"Chris K. Hepburn" <chepburn at calcna.ab.ca> wrote:
>Okay, since all of you have such wonderful suggestions on how to clean
>stuff...here's a challenge for you:
>
>I recently cleaned my basement (read: excavated) and discovered one of my
>tents has the unmistakable, pungunt odour of cat urine. I suspect there
>may be a connection to my cat...
>
>Anyway, the tent is that rip stop nylon stuff (including the floor). Is
>there any way to get the urine smell out of it? I've already tried
>"Pine-Sol" but that doesn't seem to be working too well.
I have used several of the enzyme based products, and even had the occasion
to use them on a rip-stop nylon tent. I soaked it for 2 days in the stuff
in a inflatable wading pool (this stuff was to stay wet for 24 hours or
more) and the smell came completely out. It has not seemed to harm the
tent - I did this 12 years ago and the tent is still in use. In fact, it
was the only one of our four structures that survived Lilies.
Elisee, who will not adopt more cats when Bill 'n Opus go to the great
litterbox beyond.
From: Chuck and Rhonda Leggett [RLEGGETT at austin.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 4:39 PM
To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] canvas question
> I have an odd question, but figured you all have plenty of experience and
> answers.
>
> What process do you use for canvas pavillions to keep them water proof?
>
> Susan the Curious
> Northkeep
Although there are many good products available to waterproof canvas (and any other) tenting, one of the most common 'traditional' ways was not to bother, but rather to be careful. A good, tightly-woven canvas will almost never leak-as the fibers get wet and swell, they actually will shed water without treatment....as long as no-one touches the fabric. As soon as the fabric is touched by some-one or something, it initiates a capillary action that runs water through that precise spot like a hole, until the fabric dries and the whole thing starts fresh. (Amusing to see someone draw a picture, or "write" their names into a "waterfall," then realize that they
would have to sleep there!) However, for those of us that don't choose to (or have to) rely on just caution, there is another product I've used before, called "Duck's Back," that I haven't seen anyone mention before. It may be available at Academy (I don't remember where I got it several years ago), but it comes in a gallon paint can and must be applied like paint (brush, spray, etc.), but it's worth the effort. I used it to waterproof motorcycle gear, and I would ride year-round, regardless of the weather. If you can find it, I'm sure that you'll think it worth the search (and effort). Best of luck to you.
Ever in service.
Marion du Massue
House of Brick.
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 14:02:04 +0800
From: Nathan Bullivant <nathanb at hale.wa.edu.au>
Subject: Re: [Lochac] Cleaning big tents
To: "drakey at internode.on.net" <drakey at internode.on.net>, "The
Shambles, the SCA Lochac mailing list" <lochac at sca.org.au>
We soak our round pavilion in the pool, its just like a giant washing machine.
Nathan
On Wed 13/05/09 2:13 PM , Admin Historic kit at historicevents.com.au sent:
<<< Does anyone know where I can get a big bell tent cleaned in
Melbourne ?
Kit Houston >>>
From: Pat McGregor <patsmor at yahoo.com>
Date: August 26, 2010 4:45:44 PM CDT
To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad <bryn-gwlad at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Waterproofing Canvas
There is also a world of good info here:
http://midtown.net/dragonwing/waterproofing.htm
siobhan m.
Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 20:27:11 -0400
From: Siegfried <siegfried at crossbows.biz>
To: Highland Foorde <highland-foorde at atlantia.sca.org>
Cc: andrew.ladner at gmail.com, Merry Rose <Atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: Re: [MR] Fwd: [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
Ahh, welcome to a common discussion. Others will disagree with me, but
I'll give you my own experiences/suggestions:
1) If the mold is still alive (IE, not dried up and flakey), or just to
'make sure', use white vinegar. NOT BLEACH (bleach can break down the
canvas). Putting it in a spray bottle works well. lightly soak the
area of the canvas, and leave it laid out on a driveway/etc in the
bright sun to bake.
2) Now, to get rid of it, and remove 'some' of the stain, make a
solution of water & laundry detergent, get down and scrub it well. You
won't really ever get all of it off, if it was bad, but you'll get close.
...
As far as 'treating', yes, you can buy canvas waterproofing spray (and
the anti-fire and anti-mold) ... But it's fairly expensive, and:
One of the benefits of a good canvas tent in the first place, is that
canvas is naturally water-resistant. No, it doesn't bead up and run
down. But you don't want it to, if it does, that means it's not
breathing either.
Instead during the first part of a shower, a light 'mist' will happen
inside of the tent, and then it will swell up and not let any more water
in.
(This does assume that you have good quality tight-woven tent canvas,
and not something more like a painters tarp)
...
So personally, I haven't found the need for ever re-treating. Yes, you
can get the fire/mold resistance, but to REALLY get that stuff, the
fabric needs completely impregnated with it, not just a light coating on
the outside. So a post-purchase treatment will never be as good as the
original anyway.
My 2 cents,
Siegfried
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 19:49:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alexandria Stratton <kyrilex at yahoo.com>
To: Merry Rose <Atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>, andrew.ladner at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MR] Fwd: [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
Actually, before you put ANY kind of cleaner/sealer on the canvas, set it up and
let the sun work on it. If it's been packed up for a while, it probably wouldn't
hurt to give it a good soak with a garden hose (water only). Let it air-dry.
After a day or two in the hot sun most of the mildew should be sun-bleached out,
your tent will be aired out, and everything will be all nice & fresh.
If you still have spots that REALLY bother you (it's not going to be spotless
forever) then you can use something VERY mild like ivory dish soap diluted well
with water, like a couple of teaspoons per gallon. It's really best not to use
any kind of chemicals if you can help it. Do NOT use detergents. All that stuff
will not only remove any protective finish on your canvas, but it will weaken
the fibers. Let the sun do it's job, that's what it's there for. Among other
things, of course. :)
To prevent mildew from forming, always make sure your tent is bone dry before
you pack it up. Even the slightest bit of dampness can fester mildew. If you
must pack it damp/wet, set it back up as soon as you get home to dry it out.
As for waterproofing...
Rain falls on the canvas. The fibers absorb the water and swell. This seals out
the rain. Nature. Ain't it grand? If your tent is made with Sunforger canvas,
know that the Sunforger is a finish applied in the factory to help with mildew
resistance, etc. Over the years it will wear off. If you use cleaners or scrub
spots on the canvas, you will remove the finish. That being said, Use the garden
hose again. Simulate a good heavy downpour and saturate the tent. This is how
you can tell if and where it leaks.
If you have leaks, they are most commonly at the seams, where the needle holes
are. A bit of seam sealer purchased anywhere you find camping supplies will
work. If you have major leaks elsewhere, then you may want to consider treating
the whole tent with Canvak. http://www.seattlefabrics.com/waterproofing.html is
one supplier.
The easiest and most efficient way I have found to apply this to large areas is
with a garden sprayer.
Remember that canvas is not actually water-proof, but water-repellent. With a
heavy-enough downpour, you will feel a mist inside your tent even if the canvas
is brand-new. Generally speaking, we don't usually keep our tents up through
hurricanes, but there's always the chance a big storm will come through at some
point so it' good to know, so you don't panic. :)
-- Isabelle LaFar,
making tents (sporadically) since 1996.
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 03:21:59 +0000
From: Gina Shelley <paintedwheel at hotmail.com>
To: <atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: Re: [MR] Fwd: [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
You can actually buy gun triggers that fit over spray cans so you don't wear your fingers out spraying your canvas. Painted Wheel uses A LOT of sealant. We like silicone sealant like you buy in sporting goods stores.
I used some Thompson's on the vardo roof once and was not happy with the results. The silicone works better on the type of canvas I have. It's not treated canvas. It's mostly water resistant, but I have to take pains to make sure it's water PROOF since it gets used at Pennsic and you know how the weather is up there. I have protected the top part of the canvas, the place where the rain really beats down hard, with a strip of plain old tarp in a matching color. You can't even see it up there. But the rest of the canvas, sewn with flat-fell seams, is pretty good on its own with a dose of silicone spray every now and then.
And I've waxed my seams. I did it one night at Pennsic when the storm was coming down so hard it was shaking the vardo. I was afraid the seams would fail, they were sweating a little (so was I). So I rubbed melted wax and chap stick into them. That might have been a quick fix, but it's turned out to be a good fix. I might spring a leak, but it won't be in the seams. Those suckers are marine grade at this point.
Dulcy
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 23:42:07 -0400
From: "Geffrei Maudeleyne" <Geffrei at triad.rr.com>
To: <atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: Re: [MR] Canvas Tent Upkeep
Why not to use bleach on cotton canvas tents.
How to really determine poly/cotton content percentages:
Take extremely accurate (down to 4 decimal places) weight of finely shredded
material.
Boil such in chlorine beach. (Only do this under industrial chemical vent hood
using gloves and eye protection and an apron.)
The cotton totally, absolutely, completely dissolves. (my main point)
Filter off the bleach.
Let residual dry.
Weigh the remaining poly.
Do the math to compute percentages. Poly percent = poly weight/original weight.
Do not use bleach, at least in any significant quantity on cotton canvas tents,
especially in the sunshine on a hot day.
Geffrei
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 12:55:09 +0000
From: Gina Shelley <paintedwheel at hotmail.com>
To: <atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: Re: [MR] [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
I believe the formula of Thompson's may well have changed. Back when I first started going to Pennsic, I had a Coleman canvas tent I treated with Thompson's and it was GREAT. Several years ago, I hit the roof of the vardo with some Thompson's and felt the results were absolutely not what I had in mind. In fact, I felt like I'd made a huge mistake.
Dulcy
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 17:53:14 -0400
From: "David Chessler" <chessler at usa.net>
To: Gina Shelley <paintedwheel at hotmail.com>,
<atlantia at atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: Re: [MR] [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
<<< I believe the formula of Thompson's may well have changed. Back when I first
started going to Pennsic, I had a Coleman canvas tent I treated with
Thompson's and it was GREAT. Several years ago, I hit the roof of the vardo
with some Thompson's and felt the results were absolutely not what I had in
mind. In fact, I felt like I'd made a huge mistake. >>>
Thompsons is supposedly formulated for use on concrete. There is a substance
called CANVAK that is formulated for use on cotton canvas (but not on
Sunbrella, etc). There is another substance called 303 which is for use on
plastics and artificial fibres. It prevents solar fading and deterioration,
and also restores waterproofing.
Googling canvak will get most of these.
http://www.csctextiles.com/misc.htm
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 15:07:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alexandria Stratton <kyrilex at yahoo.com>
To: atlantia at atlantia.sca.org
Subject: Re: [MR] [HF] Canvas Tent Upkeep
Yes, Thompsons Water Seal changed their formula. I think it was sometime around
1998. Thompsons was convenient because you could buy it in your local hardware
store, but Canvak has always been highly recommended and is intended for canvas.
I'm sure you could use it on an untreated wood deck, but it
is definitely intended for canvas.
About the only way to get old water seal out of canvas is to wash it in hot
water in the machine. This requires that pieces be small enough to fit the
machine, and it will leave a gummy film that has to be cleaned out immediately.
If you don't get the goo off the machine when it's still damp and pliable, it
will dry rock-hard and you'll never get it out without a chisel, until you run
another load of laundry. I do not recommend using a chisel on your washing
machine...or my mother's...or running a load of laundry with that gunk!
-- Isabelle LaFar
Experience is what you get, when things go awry.
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 01:10:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: DOLLYMORE at comcast.net
To: atlantia at seahorse.atlantia.sca.org
Subject: Re: [MR] Canvas tent upkeep
In the camp next to us last Pennsic there was a tent that had been treated with Canvac. Stunk to high heaven and when it rained we could hear the occupants crying, "It's like a shower in here" The tent came down the next day.
I saw the word canvac and had to share.
Bess
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 02:28:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alexandria Stratton <kyrilex at yahoo.com>
To: atlantia at seahorse.atlantia.sca.org
Subject: Re: [MR] Canvas tent upkeep
<<< In the camp next to us last Pennsic there was a tent that had been treated with Canvac. Stunk to high heaven and when it rained we could hear the occupants crying, "It's like a shower in here" The tent came down the next day.
Bess >>>
I would venture to guess that the issue was the canvas itself.
The very first tent I ever made utilized painters' tarps from home depot,
because I was a poor college student and did not understand the concept of
thread count. I treated it with a sealer and it stunk to high heaven until it
had aired out for a couple of weeks. The first time it rained I may as well
not bothered having the tent at all. I was in an all-period camp at Pennsic and
had a bright blue tarp strung up on the inside of my tent. Creative, but I
survived.
Using a good quality canvas is paramount. The industry standard is 10oz or
higher. No amount of any kind of treatment will keep your tent from leaking if
your canvas is poorly woven. As I've mentioned before, when it rains the fibers
swell and seal out the rain. But if your fibers are not close enough together,
you may as well have a screen over your head.
A big misconception is that canvas must be treated with something to keep out
the rain. This is simply not true. Untreated canvas will keep out the rain just
as well (sometimes better) than non-treated. However, once you add a treatment
to it, the stuff will prevent the fibers from swelling, because it prevents them
from absorbing the moisture. If you have a loosely woven canvas to begin with,
that will just make it worse.
Non-factory treatments have their place. If a tent worked fine for years and is
loosing its resistance to rain due to sun, wind and age, then Canvak is
perfectly appropriate and recommended. If you make your tent out of cheap
canvas, you have wasted your money already and don't need to bother treating it.
It will be best suited as a sun shade.
My advice on the matter is never treat canvas unless it's absolutely necessary.
Better yet, use Sunforger canvas (treated for mildew/flame resistance) and TAKE
CARE of it.
-- Isabelle LaFar
<the end>