Home Page

Stefan's Florilegium

perfumes-msg



This document is also available in: text or RTF formats.

perfumes-msg - 9/28/03

 

Medieval perfumes and pomanders. Recipes.

 

NOTE: See also the files: cosmetics-msg, handcream-msg, aphrodisiacs-msg, spices-msg, herbs-msg, lavender-msg, rose-water-msg, Handcream-art, Perfumes-bib, incense-msg.

 

************************************************************************

NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I  have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given by the individual authors.

 

Please  respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The  copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear at this time. If  information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

From: jacquetta at aol.com (Jacquetta)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: help with perfumes and fragrences

Date: 28 Aug 1994 17:49:01 -0400

 

pat at lloyd.com (Pattie McGregor) writes:

 

>I would like some info on period perfume making and such.  If anyone

could help

>me I would appreciate it a lot.  Thanks.

 

My lady, may I suggest you contact an excellent (and professional) source

on perfumery, Lady Gabrielle Von Nisselrode, a lady in House Von Halstern.

Gabrielle has written (Scents Appeal - Gabrielle J. Dorland, Wayne

Dorland Publishers) and lectured on period perfumery.  If you E-mail me, I

will send you her mundane address or you could request her book at your

local library - the ISBN is 966-3250-4-2.  Gabrielle is in my household,

that's how I happen to have the information handy, I'm not much of an

expert in the field.  Best of luck,

Lady Jacquetta de Mehun

 

 

From: jacquetta at aol.com (Jacquetta)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Info needed on Perfumes

Date: 20 Nov 1994 12:15:17 -0500

 

CCRACHEL at mizzou1.missouri.edu writes:

 

<<<I would like to make some period perfume using violets.  Anyone out

there have any period recipes or book ideas? Thanks!>>>

 

My lady,

I have taken the liberty of forwarding a copy of your post to HRH

Gabrielle  of the East.  She has recently published a book on scents and

perfumes called "Scents Appeal" by Gabrielle Dorland.  I'm sure that you

will hear from her with some ideas.  Good luck!

 

Lady Jacquetta de Mehun

 

 

From: Honour Horne-Jaruk (4/3/95)

To: Mark Harris

Period perfumes

 

markh at sphinx.sps.mot.com (Mark Harris) writes:

> I'm curious what information you have on period perfumes. I've

> wondered how they might be different, but have never researched it

> myself. You state that they were heavy, penetrating, multi-note, etc.

> I can see where this could become one of those well known fables

> without real evidence. I am by no means saying this is the case, though.

>

> Do you have any further info? Perhaps some idea of where I can find

> more info?

> Stefan li Rous

 

      Respected friend:

      Tournaments Illuminated, issue #73, winter A.S. XIX, has an exellent

article on pomanders and pouncet-boxes which includes descriptions of (and one

barely OOP recipe for) exactly the kind of perfumes I described. I _think_

the CA on cosmetics also covered scents.

      I suggest checking with you local library for a copy of the

_encyclopedia of the middle ages_. It's not perfect, but it will give you the

basics on an amazing variety of topics- and they give sources.

      Good hunting!

                        Honour/Una/Alizaunde

 

 

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 14:51:36 +1000

From: rmcgrath at nfsa.gov.au

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Arabic Perfume Distillation

 

For those who asked me about Arabic perfumes, etc.

 

Ya'qub ibn Ishaq al-Kindi - "Book on the Chemistry of Perfumes and

Distillation"

A translated edition of this was published, K. Garver, Leipzig, 1948.

Following is an example quoted in Martin Levey's "Early Arabic

Pharmacology", 1973, Leiden: EJ Brill

ISBN 90 04 03796 9

 

In al-Kindi's book the full method of distillation is given, complete with

a diagram and explanation of the apparatus.

 

This is (according to Levey) a typical recipe

 

"61: Preparation of another wonderful aromatic oil

You take one or two ratls of the best jasmine oil, pour it into a glass

bowl and pour on it for every mana of jasmine oil three ratls of purified

naduh [some kind of aromatic].  Then citron, apple peel, pieces of quince

purified of the seeds, pulverized sandalwood, dry red roses, fresh myrtle

tops, leaves of wild thyme, leaves of "Ocimum" dried or fresh, and pulp of

the citron or its juice are added and it is covered, then stirred once

every day.  When you widh, you renew the ingredients every five days.  It

is very sharp and aromatic.  Filter it into a flask and throw in two grains

of musk.  It will give you a wonderful aromatic."

 

Sorry, I don't know what a ratl is.

 

 

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:15:30 +1000

From: rmcgrath at nfsa.gov.au

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Akkadian Perfumery

 

For those who are interested in perfume distillery.

BTW, did my previous 'recipe' come thru to the list, the "wonderful

aromatic oil"?

 

In the third millennium BCE, the Babylonians conquered the Sumerians who

lived in lower Mesopotamia.  These people spoke Akkadian.

 

Some Akkadian texts on perfumery still exist.   At the time, aromata were

very important items for medicine preparations.

 

Following is a description of such a preparation, from M. Levey's ""Early

Arabic Pharmacology".

 

"If you prepare flowers, oil, and calamus as a salve, and you have tested

the flowers [of the calamus and its green parts], you set up ... a

distillatory.  You put good potable water ... [into a hariu pot].  You heat

tabilu and put it in.  You put 1 qa (about half a litre) hamimu, 1 qa

iaruttu, 1 qa of good, filtered myrrh into the hariu pot. Your standard in

this is the water taken and divided.  You operate at the end of the day and

the evening.  It remains overnight.  It becomes steeped. You filter this

solution ... with a filter cloth into a hirsu pot at dawn, on the rising of

the sun.  You clarify from this hirsu pot into another hirsu pot.  You

discard the residue.

 

You use 3 qa of purified 'Cyperus' [species unknown] in the solution with

the aromatics.  Discard the inferior material.  You put 3 qa myrrh, 2 qa

pressed and filtered calamus in the solution with these aromatics in a

hirsu pot.  You measure 40 qa of this solution which remained overnight

with the aromatics ... 1 1/2 pure gullu ... two beakers ... small beakers

... You filter ... kanaktu in a sieve.  You decant oil in the hariu pot ...

in the solution.

 

[You rub that which was with the solution overnight.] [You examine] the

comminuted material.  You remove [its bad part].  You filter this solution

which [you clarified into a distillatory] ... 3 qa ... [You throw] ...

balsam into this solution in [a hirsu pot].  [You kindle a fire].  When the

solution is heated for admixture, [you pour in the oil]. You agitate with

a stirrer.

 

[When the oil, solution, and aromatics] continue to dissolve, [you raise]

the fire... You cover the distillatory on top.  [You cool] with [water].

When the sun [rises], [you prepare] a [container for]the oil, solution, and

aromatics.  You allow the fire under the distillatory to die down.  You

remove the distilled and sublimed substances from [the trough of the

distillatory ...].

 

When the sun [rises], [if] they continue to dissolve in one another and

[the fire rises], you cover the [top] of the distillatory. You cool.  You

prepare a flask for the calamus oil.  You put a filter cloth over the

flask.  You filter the oil with a filter cloth into the flask.  You remove

the dregs and residue left in the distillatory.

 

This is the preparation of flowers, oil, and calamus for [salve] for the

king according to the recipe of Tapputi-Belatekallim, the perfumeress.

 

The twentieth of Muhur-ilani, Limmu of Qatnu-gardu".

 

(This would be approx 1200 BCE).

 

Regards

Rakhel Petrovna

 

 

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 08:26:58 -0400

From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Re: Questions

 

Kathleen M Everitt wrote:

> What are grains of Muske?

 

Musk is any of various animal sex-attractant, pheromonal secretions.

They were, in period, and are, now, very common in perfumes. They used to

be taken and processed from glands of the musk deer or several other

mammals. Essentially they were used to add an exotic perfume to foods.

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 20:17:13 EDT

From: <SNSpies at aol.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Period Perfumes

 

<< There is a new lady to the SCA in my shire who would love to learn more

about period perfumes and scents.   >>

 

The current issue of "National Geographic" has a great article on perfume

which includes two scratch-and-sniff patches of two reconstructed perfumes,

those used by Cleopatra and by Napoleon.  Amazing odors!

 

My favorite book on perfumes is by John Trueman and entitled "The Romantic

Story of Scent," (London:  Aldus Books, 1975).

 

Nancy (Ingvild)

 

 

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:17:32 -0600

From: "Barbara & Donal" <ceolron at enetis.net>

To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Period Perfumes

 

Greetings - This is one of my areas of study, and I would agree there is

very little info out there.  This volume of the following book, which I was

able to obtain through Interlibrary loan had (interestingly enough) both an

article on cosmetics, including quite a bit on classical and pre-classical

perfumes/perfumed oils etc. and an article on pigments and dyes.  Much of

this technology was available to, and used by later western European

cultures.  Here is the book:

 

Forbes, R J, Studies in Ancient Technology, Vol 3, pp 1-47, 187, 210-257, E.

J. Brill, Leiden, Netherlands.

 

  I would love to know what the articles in the other volumes contain, if

anyone has access to the entire set.  Liadan

 

 

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 09:32:59 -0400 (EDT)

From: Jenne Heise <jenne at tulgey.browser.net>

To: "sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Period Perfumes

 

On Fri, 2 Oct 1998, Jeane Watson wrote:

> Anyone out there have good sources to recommend to this lady?

 

A few modern sources that have information of interest:

 

_Green Enchantment_ by Rosetta Clarkson, includes information on pomanders

and scents.

_Perfumes, Splashes, and Colognes_ (out of Storey Publishing, can't

remember the author right now) has a section on history of perfumes

_Jeanne Rose's Herbal_ by Jeanne Rose, has some period recipes for

pomanders.

 

Also try Kenneth Digby... who also has recipes for scents.

 

Jadwiga Zajaczkowa (Shire of Eisental; HERMS Cyclonus), mka Jennifer Heise

jenne at tulgey.browser.net

 

 

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:01:41 -0400 (EDT)

From: Jenne Heise <jenne at tulgey.browser.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: SCA-ARTS digest 545

 

On Wed, 7 Oct 1998, Marg Henley wrote:

> I am interested in information regarding early pomanders, the type

> made of cloved fruit. I have found oodles of information on later

> pomanders but would like info on their more primitive forbears: any

> dates, how they were attached, who wore them, slung from belts,

> necks?, types of fruit? etc.

 

Cloved fruit pomanders appear to have been a late development of the

pomander.  Early pomanders were made with a combination of gums, resins,

and (often) dirt or clay. These pomanders were kept in cases, often of

metal, with pierced sides to hold them. The cases were carried, worn on

chains or ribbons about the neck, attached to walking sticks, and worn on

the belt. Later in period, pomander cases (which could include

compartments for a number of different scents) also came to include

compartments for sponges soaked in aromatic vinegar.

 

Scented beads (rose, violet, etc.) made from flower petals were also made.

 

I don't have my resources right to hand, but the best discussion of this

that I know of is Rosetta Clarkson's, in _Magic Gardens_.

 

Jadwiga Zajaczkowa (Shire of Eisental; HERMS Cyclonus), mka Jennifer Heise

jenne at tulgey.browser.net

 

 

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 08:30:26 -0700

From: Thea & Jeff <tsand at pacbell.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: SCA-ARTS digest 545

 

Jeanne Roses Herbal, which I believe is still in print, has some lovely

rose and spice bead recipes as well as some pomanders as well. Some of

these do have period references provided. The still room section of

Martha Washington's Book of Cookery edited by Karen Hess (and available

in paprback!) also has some delightful recipes. Thea of Midvale

 

 

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 09:17:21 -0400

From: Susan Evans <woofie at gte.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Period Perfumes

 

Other sources for period (pre-1700) perfumes includes some cookbooks of the

time - they have several recipes in them.

 

A book devoted to perfume is "French Perfumer", published in 1696.  Has

directions for powders, essences, oils, scented waxes, pastes and waters.

Instructions on coloring and scenting gloves and fans.

 

"Polygraphice" was published in 1673 and one of the books (out of 4 in the

set) is on cosmetics and perfumery.  (Also has directions on making sealing

wax and marbelizing paper).

 

Both available in facsimile edition.

 

Sue

 

 

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:14:26 -0400 (EDT)

From: Carol Thomas <scbooks at neca.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Period Perfumes

 

Rose Recipes from Dover also has some relevant information, I think.  Don't

have a copy handy at the moment.

Lady Carllein

 

 

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 23:45:19 EDT

From: <SNSpies at aol.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Period Perfumes

 

<< Rose Recipes from Dover also has some relevant information, I think.  >>

 

Yes, it does, some 16th century recipes.

 

Nancy (Ingvild)

 

 

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 22:54:44 -0400

From: rmhowe <magnusm at ncsu.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Pomanders and Scent

 

I sometimes share notes I take off Arts with my friend Ezekial,

the chemist, he likes jewelry and metalwork, he wrote back:

...........

8 Oct 1998   "D. Scott Snyder" <dss10 at acpub.duke.edu>

 

     I read this just as I was considering making another pomander.

I'm not good enough at metalworking to try the opening fruit kind so

I was going to try for a kind of spangen pomander, either hinged or

with a type of  screw opening.  One of the best period pictures I

have seen on pomanders is of the opening fruit kind.  It is in Robert

Lightbown's "Medieval European Jewelry" published by the Victoria

and Albert Museum, truly a great resource*.  As for what to put in

it, one of my favorite tricks is to use dried rose petals dabbed with

rose oil.  The scent is strong enough to be detectable at several feet

but is pleasant and not overpowering.  I also have several period

recipies if anyone is interested.

 

Best Regards,

Scott Snyder, (Ezekiel the Slightly Demented)

 

*It has an entire chapter on pomanders including their history.

............

I've seen, have pictures of the pomander he is referring to as the

opening kind. It is hinged at the base like the opening parts of

a citrus fruit when the top cover is lifted.

He's right about that being an excellent source. I've seen it too.

It's OOP and was about $200 shortly before it went out.

 

Scott is not on the SCA-Arts list. I thought you'd like the resource

citation.

 

Magnus

 

 

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:34:53 -0500

From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson at compuserve.com>

To: "INTERNET:sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Perfume book

 

After the discussions on perfume I found this book in a catalogue  that

might be of interest: Perfumery with Herbs, by Ivan Day, Perfumes in

History, natural perfume materials and their extraction. 100s of recipes

some historical for pomanders, beads, incense, washballs etc

 

Mel

 

 

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 14:24:39 -0500

From: "Elyse C. Boucher" <70521.3645 at compuserve.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Potpourri & Dentifrice

 

Merouda here. Here I am, bein' naughty at work. :)

Amazon.com delivered today, and today's shipment

Brought _Martha Washington's Book of Cookery_! Yeehah!

 

This is a book of Elizabethan and Jacobean receipts that was at

one time in the possession of Martha Washington: the version I

obtained is transcribed by Karen Hess. As a Tudor persona, I

especially enjoy late and gray period "primary" sources, so this

one is a delight.

 

Anyway, I was flipping through my new book and noticed a number of

receipts for pommadors and soaps and so forth. The thing that

really caught my eye was this, however, from the _Sweetmeats_

portion of the book:

 

314. To make a perfume to stand in a room. Take 2 or 3 quarts of

roses buds or the leaves of damask roses, & put them in a pot with

bay salt, 3 or 4 grayns of muske, & as much of amberreece, 20 or

30 drops of oyle of rodium, a little benjamin & storeax & beat

together, & 2 or 3 spoonfuls of rosewater. put all these together

in a cheyney pot, or any other that is handsom, & keep it allwayes

close covered. but when you have a mind to have your room sweet,

you m{ay take off the} cover.

 

There you go, a potpourri basin from late period. This is as how

it was written, except I took the liberty of transcribing uncommon

abbreviations into modern spellings.

 

<snip of dental care notes>

 

Your Servant, Merouda Pendray

 

 

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 16:37:05 EDT

From: LrdRas at aol.com

Subject: Re: SC - Ambergris?

 

meliora at macquarie.matra.com.au writes:

<< Now I know that ambergris comes from a whale and is therefore not

readily available - but what is its function in these recipes and what

do you guys use as a substitute?

 

Thanks and regards

 

Meliora >>

 

Often ambergris is found washed up on beaches and is still an item of trade,

SFAIK, albeit as you say, rare. It imparts a wonderful perfumy, musky like

odor and subtle flavor when used in cookery.

 

Ras

 

 

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 18:45:27 -0700 (PDT)

From: Laura C Minnick <lainie at gladstone.uoregon.edu>

Subject: Re: SC - Ambergris?

 

On Sat, 24 Apr 1999, Meliora & Drake wrote:

> I have been reading a few late period marmalades and preserves recipes

> that call for the use of a few grains of ambergris.

> Now I know that ambergris comes from a whale and is therefore not

> readily available - but what is its function in these recipes and what

> do you guys use as a substitute?

 

The stuff comes from the whale as a waxy secretion, and is found floating

or washed up on beaches. Before it is cleaned up it is kinda gross, but

once washed and filtered, is smooth, off-white to light gray, and with a

deep scent similar to muck but somewhat sweeter. (I love the stuff myself,

for perfume.) Occasionally it is found in fossilized chunks, and since

your recipe calls for grains, I would suspect the fossilized stuff is what

you want. I would suggest checking out an Asian pharmacy, a perfumerie or

someplace that carries a lot of incense. Sometimes they carry it with

frankincense and myhrr.

 

'Lainie

- -

Laura C. Minnick

University of Oregon

Department of English

 

 

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 21:24:00 -0700

From: "David Dendy" <ddendy at silk.net>

Subject: Re: SC - Ambergris?

 

>>  Anybody know how to extract musk? I've just run into a trapper who'll give

>>  me all his carcasses. Ras-ma-tas, can you say, "Muskrat Stew"?

>

>errr, hmmm, I never heard of extracting musk from muskrats.  I thought it was

>extracted from musk deer, and members of the civet family.

>

>Mordonna

 

"Sometimes natural substitutes for musk are used, such as the scent glands

of the common American muskrat. The scent of this creature (which is not a

rat but a near relative of the beaver) has almost the identical odor of the

substance obtained from the musk-deer but it lacks the fixative qualities of

the latter." pp. 263-4, A. Hyatt Verrill, *Perfumes and Spices . . ."

(Boston: L.C. Page and Co., 1940). Castoreum, the scent glands of the

beaver, is also used, so ask your trapper friend if he gets beaver as well.

 

Francesco Sirene

 

 

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 00:28:00 -0700

From: Vicki Strassburg Eldredge <taltos at primenet.com>

Subject: Re: SC - Ambergris?

 

Alderton, Philippa wrote:

> Anybody know how to extract musk? I've just run into a trapper who'll give

> me all his carcasses. Ras-ma-tas, can you say, "Muskrat Stew"?

 

Well, umm, actually, yes. I used to have ferrets that had not been descented,

and my male had to be "milked" on a fairly regular basis. Assuming the same

procedure as for a ferret (and relying on many years of fuzzy memory): Step 1 -

get gloves, a small bowl and a nose plug. Step 2 - wait for a day with enough

breeze that your nose can be upwind of your hands. Step 3 - feel for a small

lumpy gland right at the base of the tail. (once you have found one, it's easy

to recognize it again.) Step 4 - inhale and hold your breath. Step 5 - Gently

stroke and squeeze the gland with an outward motion. (and this is how you can

tell if you found it - if you get musk, you succeeded, if not, wrong lump.)

Good luck. :-)

 

~Maedb

of the many talents LOL

 

 

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:43:30 EDT

From: LrdRas at aol.com

Subject: Re: SC - Re: Ambergris and Musk

 

alysk at ix.netcom.com writes:

<< Greetings!  When I was trying to reproduce some Tudor confections

calling for ambergris, I was informed that it was not legal in the US

to sell any.  Anyone found anything to the contrary?

 

Alys Katharine >>

 

Found this on the web at

http://www.netstrider.com/documents/ambergris/summary/

 

"Trade in ambergris has been banned worldwide for years by treaty and by

various national marine mammal protection acts. The romance of ambergris is

now only a distant memory. Once it was eaten with eggs for breakfast at the

tables of Dutch burghers and English squires. Now that sperm whales are

returning to our seas a curious beachcomber may once again hope to find a

lump of ambergris some day. "

 

Of course this doesn't mean that you won't find it in a back out of the way

place. Although the ban apparently is in place, it does not apply to supplies

that were in existence before the law took affect. :-) Quote- "It is said

that a single drop of tincture of ambergris applied to a paper and placed in

a book will remain fragrant after 40 years and that once handled, the fingers

will smell of it even after several days and several washings."

 

Ras

 

 

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:43:52 -0500

From: Jennifer Carlson JCarlson at firstchurchtulsa.org

Subject: SC - RE: Ambergris and musk

 

If you are using an essential oil instead of the whole item, please make

sure that it is not synthetic ambergris or musk - the synthetics are not

necessarily food grade.  Also, perfume oil is not the same as essential oil- - it may be adulterated with chemicals you don't want to put in food.  I have found some excellent synthetic oils that I use in my perfumery, but I won't use in cooking.   Also, the essential oils of the real thing are quite pricey. While ambergris can still be found washed up on shores, I have not heard that anyone has developed a new way of collecting musk - cutting off the gland of the male musk deer.  Farmers in Asia have begun raising herds of musk deer to provide glands to perfumery, making money and at the same time protecting the wild musk deer from overhunting. Civet is used more for its fixative properties than its scent.  Civet and skunk both produce strongly scented secretions that are famous for their staying power.  The base material of the secretions, separated from the nasty scent chemicals, is used as a fixative in perfumes.  I presume this substance can be obtained from ferrets and other similar creatures. Ambergris, in addition to having its own scent (which is indeed quite pleasant), is also a fixative, which is why it is so valuable in perfumery. Orris root, from a kind of iris, is also a fixative, and is used in potpourri today, and was used in making scented stuff for the home inperiod - but because it is a plant substance, it is useful more for dry perfuming, as in potpourri and sachets and powders.

 

Talana

 

 

From: "Polkinghorne" <polkyfam at inreach.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: smelly and slightly interesting

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 23:03:14 -0800

 

This was posted to an aromatherapy list - "Perfumes for the Period Scent"

http://www.costumes.org/pages/perfume.htm

 

Thought some of you might find it interesting...

Geraldine

 

 

Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 00:35:46 -0400

From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>

Subject: Re: SC - Catalan Recipes

 

And it came to pass on 7 Apr 00,, that Brian Songy wrote:

> A XIVth century perfume recipe!?  I've been looking for such a thing!!  If

> it is not too much trouble, would you be willing to type that one recipe

> in?  English, modern Spainish or Catalan.

 

Here it is, in Catalan.  Although the title says "perfume", it appears to

be solid pellets which are used as we would use incense. I hope that it

is still of interest to you.

 

Source: _LIbre de Totes Maneres de Confits_ (Catalan, 14th century)

 

CAPITOL XXX.  PER FER UN PERFUM MOLT MERAVELLOS

 

Per fer perfum molt meravellos, tu prendras guoma dregant .ii. oz. e sia

remullada dos dies ab ayguas fines e benjuhi mige ll. e almesc una

draume e ambre una drauma e estorac .ii. oz.  E sia be molt, e puys

pendras una poca de siveta, e, com tot aso sia prest, tot ho pesteras e

com sia pestat be, ab un cano de canya o ab so que volras que sia ben

lis tu ho pleneras liscant liscant fins que tu conexeras que romaqua de

bona cruxa.  E com ho auras aplenat, auras un guanivet e fer n as

tauletes, e, com n auras fetes tauletes, aredonir les as en forma de

panets axi fet com mig cruant.  E con  ne volras perfumar, pendras del

panets e fer n as trosets e axi lansar n as sobre lo bresquet e

perfumeras so que voldras.  E si pahvets ne volras fer en lo pestar,

metras lo terchs de carbo de salser e fer n as los dits pahvets.

 

Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)

 

 

Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 22:36:42 -0400

From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>

Subject: SC - OT: Catalan Perfume Recipes

 

And it came to pass on 8 Apr 00,, that Seton1355 at aol.com wrote:

> My high school Spanish is not up to snuff.  Do you be chance have this in

> English? Many thanks! P. Seton

 

I don't, but I can take a stab at a paraphrase.  (I don't dare call it a

translation, but it should provide the relevant info.)

>  Here it is, in Catalan.  Although the title says "perfume", it appears to

>  be solid pellets which are used as we would use incense.  I hope that it

>  is still of interest to you.

>

>  Source: _LIbre de Totes Maneres de Confits_ (Catalan, 14th century)

>

>  CAPITOL XXX.  PER FER UN PERFUM MOLT MERAVELLOS

>

>  Per fer perfum molt meravellos, tu prendras guoma dregant .ii. oz. e sia

>  remullada dos dies ab ayguas fines e benjuhi mige ll. e almesc una draume

>  e ambre una drauma e estorac .ii. oz.  E sia be molt, e puys pendras una

>  poca de siveta, e, com tot aso sia prest, tot ho pesteras e com sia

>  pestat be, ab un cano de canya o ab so que volras que sia ben lis tu ho

>  pleneras liscant liscant fins que tu conexeras que romaqua de bona cruxa.

>   E com ho auras aplenat, auras un guanivet e fer n as tauletes, e, com n

>  auras fetes tauletes, aredonir les as en forma de panets axi fet com mig

>  cruant.  E con  ne volras perfumar, pendras del panets e fer n as trosets

>  e axi lansar n as sobre lo bresquet e perfumeras so que voldras.  E si

>  pahvets ne volras fer en lo pestar, metras lo terchs de carbo de salser e

>  fer n as los dits pahvets.

 

To make a very marvelous perfume, you will take 2 ounces of gum

dragon and it shall be soaked for two days in fine waters, and half a

pound of bezoin and a drachm of musk and a drachm of amber and two

ounces of storax.  And it shall be very good and then take a little of

civet, and when all this is ready, (grind? powder?) all this and when it is

well (ground? powdered?), with a cane of reed or whatever you wish, let

it be quite smooth, you will flatten it very smoothly until you know that

(?).  And when you have flattened it, take a knife and make slices, and

when you have made slices, round them into the form of little rolls made

like half a (?).  And when you wish to perfume, take the little rolls and

make little pieces and leave them upon the (?) and you will perfume as

you wish.  And if (?) you don't wish to make it in the (mortar?), put the

(?) of coal for (incense??) and make the said (?).

 

 

As I said, I can't really call this a translation.  I don't know Catalan; I'm

working with a couple of dictionaries and my knowledge of Spanish and

French.  However, I think this would be a decent starting place for

someone who is familiar with scent-making.

 

Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)

 

 

Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 04:58:05 MST

From: martin <me at aromamedical.demon.co.uk>

Subject: re perfumery books

To: "Mark.S Harris (rsve60)" <rsve60 at email.sps.mot.com>

 

Recently I have seen some your compilations of messages from the

pefumery newsgroup.

I have put onto CD a magnificent work on fragrance  called 'The Scent of

Flowers' (circa 1928), some of your group may be interested in this. I

was going to scan my first edition of 'The Art of Perfumery', but it is

a nightmare to do and existing sales make it uneconomic.  All details on

my web site.

 

Regards Martin Watt, UK. http://www.aromamedical.demon.co.uk/">http://www.aromamedical.demon.co.uk

(Link updated 9/20/03 –Stefan)

 

 

Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:25:12 -0500

From: Hollie Hoffman <hhoffman at networktel.net>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Looking for book review - Scents of Time

 

Can anyone give me an informed review/opinion of this book.

 

Scents of Time: Perfume from Ancient Egypt to the 21st Century

by Edwin L. Morris

112 pages Bk&Acces ed (March 2000), Bulfinch Pr

Metropolitan Museum of Art

ISBN: 0821226355

 

Description:

"For more than 4,000 years, perfumery has never lost its allure. This gift

set demonstrates why. In the 112-page full-color book, fragrance historian

Edwin Morris traces perfume's story from its origins in Babylonia to the

most recent global trends. Each page is illustrated with works of art drawn

from the collections of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Packaged with the

book are eight fine fragrances, specially blended by the perfumers of

Givaudan Roure to capture the most influential scents in history:

Frankincense, representing Egypt and the ancient Near East. Rose, the

favorite scent of the classical world. Sandalwood-Jasmine, a blend

reflective of the Islamic world and India. Orange Blossom, which originated

in East Asia. Spice, a blend of aromatics emblematic of the Renaissance.

Eau de Cologne, a refreshing fragrance first used in eighteenth-century

Europe. Millefleurs, a floral blend with twentieth-century aldehydic

chemistry. Sportif, a fresh citrus fragrance anticipating trends of the

twenty-first century. Open the book and discover how perfume has influenced

the art of living in every culture. Open the bottles and be transported to

the world of Cleopatra, Caterina de Medici, Madame de Pompadour, Napolon

Bonaparte, Paul Poiret, and the icons of today."

 

I am considering giving it as a birthday gift to an SCAer whose dream job

is to be a perfumer.

 

Thank You,

 

Lady Ananda Barineau Valiant da Firenze

Hollie Hoffman

Pensacola, FL

hhoffman at networktel.net

 

 

Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 10:24:04 -0700

From: Rose <rose at santiagosmagic.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Frankincense

 

Natural Magick has a whole chapter on perfumes, but frankincense isn't

mentioned at all.  Delights for Ladies, I believe, also has some perfume

recipes in it, but I don't remember any of them including frankincense,

either.  Off the top of my head, musk, ambergris and civet are the usual animal

scents, roses, lavender, spikenard and labdanum are the most common floral

scents, and cloves are the usual spice scent.

 

Interestingly, I have found very little about scents being applied to your

person -- most perfumes come in the form of pomanders and sweet powders or oils

to be worn or applied to your clothing, instead.

 

Now, if somebody can get their hands on the perfume book of Caterina Sforza,

I'd love to see a copy of that!

 

Rose :)

 

 

From: lilinah at earthlink.net

Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:35:09 -0700

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Help in translation?

 

>     A friend is having a problem with the following pomander recipie.  Could

>someone help her out?

>Olaf

>

>----- Original Message -----

>>  I'm doing some research on Elizabethan costuming.I came across this recipe

>>  for a pomander on page 86 of Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth

>> Century by C. Willet Cunnington. Plymouth State has this out of print book. I

>> didn't get the source this quotation was from but here is a great recipe for

>> a pomandor if you can figure it out. The quote is word for word including the punctuation:

>>

>> "Make a pomander under this manner. Take a lapidanum iii drammes, of wodde

>> of Aloes one dram, of amber of grece ii drames and a half; of nutmeg, of storax

>>  calamite of eche a dram and a halfe;confect all together with Rose-water,

>>  and make a ball"

>>

>>  Looks like the translater had handwiting to try to decipher.I'm assuming

>>  "dram" and "drame" are the same thing."Half" and "halfe" must be too. I

>> assume "amber of grece" is ambergris. "Storax calamite of eche" puzzles

>> me as does "wodde of Aloes".The manufacture of woad makes me think that it

>> doesn't smell that good but I could be wrong.It is probably something else.

>> Nutmeg and rosewater, I know. Now all I need to find out is how

>> much a lapidanum is.

>>

>> Roberta Bromley

 

First, orthography was not standardized until rather recently, so

it's hardly surprising that the spelling of dram  and half vary

within an Elizabethan recipe. After all, Shakespeare apparently

didn't sign his name the same way twice. It has nothing to do with

anyone's handwriting. Printed books of the time could have one word

spelled several ways on one page.

 

lapidanum - is labdanum, that is cistus or rock rose. It is NOT a

weight or measurement. The recipe calls for 3 drams of it. I have

some that someone made for me out of home grown plants. This is NOT

the same as "laudanum" which is a poppy derivative.

 

wodde of aloes - is aloes wood. It's hard to find in the US, but

sometimes very fine, high level Japanese shops that supply a Japanese

connoisseurship have some. It is an ancient ingredient in incenses -

i believe it is called for in the Bible for the temple incense. It

does smell wonderful. I don't own any because of the high price. It

has absolutely NOTHING to do with "woad" or with the succulent plant

known as aloe.

 

amber of grece - is ambergris. This is generally not available as it

comes from endangered sperm wales. I'm not sure how good the various

synthetics are. Some make me sneeze. A synthetic would be the only

recourse, unless you happen to find some excreted from a sperm whale

on a beach.

 

of nutmeg, of storax calamite of eche a dram - well, that means a

dram each of nutmeg and storax. I'm not sure about the calamite...

Anyone know: Is storax calamite a form of storax or is calamite a

separate ingredient? I have storax here. It's rather interesting

stuff.

 

So, i'd translate it as:

  "Make a pomander in this manner: Take 3 drams of labdanum, one dram

of wood Aloes, 2 and 1/2 drams of ambergris; a dram and a half of

nutmeg and of storax calamite. Confect all together with Rose-water,

and make a ball"

 

Anahita

 

 

Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 11:20:07 +0200

From: tgl at mailer.uni-marburg.de

To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Help in translation?

 

<< I came across this recipe for a pomander on page 86 of Handbook of

English Costume in the Sixteenth Century by C. Willet Cunnington.

Plymouth State has this out of print book. I didn't get the source this

quotation was from ... >>

 

It seems to me that it is from Andrew Boorde's Dietary of Health (1542):

 

"(...) Or els make a

pomemaunder vnder this manor. Take of Lapdanum

.iii. drammes, of the wodde of Aloes one drame, of amber

of grece .ii. drames and a half; of nutmegges, of storax

calamite, of eche a drame and a half; confect all these

<<291>>

togyther with Rose-water, & make a ball. And this

aforesayd Pomemaunder doth not onely expell contagyous

ayre, but also it doth comforte the brayne, as

Barthelmew of Montagnaue sayth, & other modernall

doctors doth afferme the same: (...)"

(Andrew Boorde's Introduction and Dyetary ... Ed. F.J. Furnivall. London

1870, EETS E.S. 10, page 290-91).

 

It seems to me that _labdanum_ both means:

-- the plant: "Hills green with flowering shrubs, and in particular with

labdanum." (OED, quot. from 1775)

-- the resin of the plant: "Labdane, Labdanum; a fat, clammie,

transparent, and sweet-smelling Gumme." (Cotrgrave 1611; OED)

 

storax calamite:

"1694 Pechey Compl. Herbal 333 The resin of Storax, which is sold in the

Shops is two-fold, dry and liquid. The dry is called Storax-Calamite

because it is put up in Reeds." (OED)

 

Th.

 

 

From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>

To: "'sca-cooks at ansteorra.org'" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Help in translation?

Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 08:32:27 -0500

 

Calamite can mean "reed" or "reed-like," so in this case I would probably

translate it as storax reed.  Storax is a general term for the snowbell

(Styrax japonicus) but can also refer to the resin of various members of the

Styrax and has been used to refer to the resin of various members of the

Liquidambar, especially L. orientalis.  I haven't see any of the plants, so

I can't tell you which resembles a reed.

 

Bear

 

> of nutmeg, of storax calamite of eche a dram - well, that means a

> dram each of nutmeg and storax. I'm not sure about the calamite...

> Anyone know: Is storax calamite a form of storax or is calamite a

> separate ingredient? I have storax here. It's rather interesting

> stuff.

>

> So, i'd translate it as:

>   "Make a pomander in this manner: Take 3 drams of labdanum, one dram

> of wood Aloes, 2 and 1/2 drams of ambergris; a dram and a half of

> nutmeg and of storax calamite. Confect all together with Rose-water,

> and make a ball"

>

> Anahita

 

 

From: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:18:00 -0500 (EST)

To: SCA-Cooks maillist <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] pomander

 

> It was asked:

> > Looking for documentation on pomanders...looking to make one for an upcoming

> > A&S competition and having problems finding documentation...

> >

> > Anyone have an idea?

 

I kept hoping that someone would come up with more info. The best single

secondary source I know of is the chapter on pomanders and scents in

Rosetta Clarkson's _Magic Gardens: A Chronicle of Herbs and Savory Seeds_.

There are recipes in Eleanor Sinclair Rohde's _A Scented Garden_.  I have

some recipes online in:

http://www.lehigh.edu/~jahb/herbs/scentedrecipes.html

http://www.lehigh.edu/~jahb/herbs/scents.html

 

-- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa

 

 

From: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 18:08:42 -0400 (EDT)

To: "SCA-Cooks (E-mail)" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Feast Ambience - incense

 

If you want to make your own alcohol-less perfumes (or synthetic-fragrance

-free perfumes) or have those around you make them, there's a good book

called _Perfumes, Splashes and Colognes_ out there on how to do it.

 

At the risk of sounding like Stefan, 've got notes on the relation of such

to period practice, on the web here:

http://www.Lehigh.EDU/~jahb/herbs/oil&;water.html

 

> Though actually if we got people to wear period scents to feasts they

> wouldn't have alcohol in them would they? Wasn't that an C.18th innovation?

> Jadwiga?

 

Welll..... that's a tricky one. Alcoholic perfumes may well date back to

period, though we don't have a lot of info about when distilled 'waters'

became the carrier of choice for scent. Myth says distilled alcohol

perfumes date back to the late 1300s but there are no surviving docs that

I can find. On the other hand, they wouldn't be terribly similar to what

we think of as perfumes. (I hope to enter rosemary boiled in wine in the

Pennsic A&S, which is a skin wash that dates back to 1525.)

 

-- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa

 

<the end>



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org