iron-pot-care-msg - 8/14/15
Seasoning and caring for iron pots and skillets.
NOTE: See also the files: utensils-msg, horn-utn-care-msg, mazers-msg, spoons-msg, pottery-msg, Horn-Spoons-art, wood-utn-care-msg, p-tableware-msg.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: destry at netcom.com (Fellwalker)
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 03:18:51 GMT
On 19 Jul 1996 19:31:07 -0400, Bruce Mills (millsbn at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA) wrote:
: I would be pleased if anyone who has knowledge on the "seasoning" of cast
: iron ware in preparation for use in cooking would post a concise treatise
: on so doing. I have tried a number of methods, all of which I have found
: to be less than satisfactory.
The method I use:
Wash utensil, rinse and dry.
Grease lightly with a SOLID shortening (Crisco works well. What shortening
you use will definately affect how well this works).
Bake in a 300 degree oven for one hour. Cool, and store.
Wash with boiling water and a brush, do not use soap, as it will remove
the seasoning.
Do not store food in it or allow to sit for long periods after cooking.
--Morgan (Max)
-- ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... <destry at netcom.com>
Sleepy Cat Graphis http://emporium.turnpike.net/Z/zen/index.html
P.O. Box 608048 - The Church of Zen Fatalism -
San Diego, CA 92160 Artful Things Gallery
From: drgnlair at nai.net (Bob & Nancy Upson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 20 Jul 1996 09:38:18 GMT
Organization: The Dragons' Lair www/BBS
millsbn at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA (Bruce Mills) says:
>I would be pleased if anyone who has knowledge on the "seasoning" of cast
>iron ware in preparation for use in cooking would post a concise treatise
>on so doing. I have tried a number of methods, all of which I have found
>to be less than satisfactory.
1) Scour it thoroughly to remove any rust or packing oils.
2) Coat it with cooking oil, inside and out.
3) Heat it in a 300 degree oven for an hour.
4) Carefully wipe off any oil that remains.
5) Repeat process if necessary.
*) To maintain seasoning, re-oil the inside periodically. This can be done
by wiping the inside with a tablespoon of cooking oil and heating on a
low burner. (I keep my best skillets on the back burner over the oven
vent -- just enough heat to help 'set' the oil.)
That will get you started, cast iron will continue to season and improve
with every use. Be careful of cleaning it with soap -- it will degrade
the seasoning. If you must use soap to clean it, scrub it clean and rinse
it thoroughly afterwards before re-oiling. Never soak it in soapy water or
'Brillo' unless you're ready to strip it and reseason from scratch!
Macsen
From: Sam Wise <gamgee at catamart.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 16:33:58 +0000
On 19 Jul 1996, Bruce Mills wrote:
> I would be pleased if anyone who has knowledge on the "seasoning" of cast
> iron ware in preparation for use in cooking would post a concise treatise
> on so doing. I have tried a number of methods, all of which I have found
> to be less than satisfactory.
step 1. wash very well removing all rust and other buildup
step 2. use top of stove to dry. NEVER let cast iron dry by setting it
in dish drainer (unless you want a rust red skillet)
step 3. preheat oven to as hot as posible.
step 4. use cooking oil soaked paper towel to coat entire pot/skillet with
cooking oil. (remember you will be eating out of this thing)
step 5. cook the pot/skillet for 1/2 hour or so. (if oil starts smoking
that's long enough)
step 6. cool the pot/skillet
step 7. repeat steps 2-6 a couple times.
if this is the first time this peice, repeat steps 1-6 at least 3 times.
REMEMBER if you use soap to clean your skillet, you MUST re-season it.
I usualy use the top burner of my stove to season skillets. just bring
the oil to a near burn. (when the oil starts smoking, it's hot enough)
At least this is the way I have always done the seasoning for my skillets.
And all I ever use is cast iron. I will NEVER go back to aluminum!!!!!!!
From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 20 Jul 1996 20:53:48 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Bruce Mills (millsbn at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA) wrote:
: I would be pleased if anyone who has knowledge on the "seasoning" of cast
: iron ware in preparation for use in cooking would post a concise treatise
: on so doing. I have tried a number of methods, all of which I have found
: to be less than satisfactory.
For me, it works best to divide the proper use of cast-iron ware into
three aspects: initial seasoning, proper use, and re-seasoning.
Others have described adequate methods for the initial seasoning: clean
thoroughly, rub with fat or oil, and heat. I actually prefer to heat the
pan first, then rub it all over with the oil, then return it to the heat
and repeat several times. Don't use too much oil at one time or it will
polymerize into useless sludge. I actually prefer doing the heating over
the flame on my stove, but _don't_ do this with an electric burner.
When you have what looks like a good initial seasoning, keep in mind that
this is something that needs to be maintained -- you can't do it once and
forget about it. If you are baking/frying/etc., heat and then oil the pan
before puting food in it _every_time_ you use it. Try very hard to avoid
burning food onto the pan -- you'll take off the seasoning in the process
of cleaning out the crud. Don't use an abrasive cleaning method. If
possible, don't use water at all in cleaning. (My griddle never sees water
at all.)
I personally have not had problems with washing these items with regular
soap and water as long as I always reseason after washing: immediately
after washing, put the pan back on the heat, when it is dry and warm,
re-oil it lightly (and, of course, let it cool before putting it away).
It's a constant process, but especially for griddles and frying pans, the
result is well worth it. My favorite small frying pan is so smooth and
seasoned that I can flip crepes in it! (But I've been using that one for
the last twenty years.)
One final warning. At the risk of insulting even your closest friends and
family, NEVER let anyone else use your cast iron unless you've made sure
they know how to treat it properly. (Unless, like me, you are wiling --
for the sake of family harmony -- to grit your teeth and start over when
your father brags to you about how well he scrubbed out your dutch oven.)
Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glavsryn
From: svea at execpc.com (Barb Johannessen)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 21 Jul 1996 13:40:07 GMT
Organization: The Great Dark Horde
There are several ways of seasoning cast iron:
The quick way (if you don't mind smoke in the kitchen and/or can do it
outside.)
The slower way.
And the really slow (or lucky) way.
The really slow way is to inherit or buy *old cast iron* that has already
been cooked in for five or ten or twenty years. This requires luck, but it
will probably be beautifully seasoned. Or buy new cast iron and cook in it
for five or ten or twenty years, wiping it out and drying it on medium heat
after each meal. (Somehow, I suspect that this is not the method you want to
know about <g>)
The not so slow way is to
1. wash it well to remove any packing, or storage coatings. For this, you use
the hottest water you can stand, and yes, a Brillo or SOS pad. There's
*nothing* on new cast iron you want to keep.
2. Dry it on the stove with the burner turned up *high* (you want to dry it
completely, as fast as possible)
3. While it's still hot, pour a small pool of cooking oil (my husband and I
are both partial to peanut oil for this) into it, and wipe the oil around it
*throroughly*. Do the outside as well. Let it cool. then repeat the heating
and oiling.
The quick and smoky way is to scrub it clean and heat it as (1) and (2)
above, then turn your oven on (someone said as high as possible--this makes
for a *very* smoky kitchen-- I've done it at about 150-200 degrees and had
very good results) and fill the pan with oil, and let it sit in the oven for
several hours. Pour off the hot oil (coffee cans work well as containers),
wipe the pan with a couple of paper towels, and let it cool. You should only
have to go through this once.
The aftercare is not as rigorous as some people I have run into make it
sound:
Try not to scrub it once you've got it seasoned. (properly seasoned cast iron
can stand up to soapy water--just don't let it soak in the soap.) A
Scotch-Brite (tm) will clean off most any stuck on crud without removing the
seasoning. We take ours camping, and believe me, they get Hot Soapy Water
then.
Dry it over heat each time you use it and wipe a thin film of oil on it
before you put it away.
If you use it to fry greasy stuff (bacon, chicken, so on) you may be able to
just wipe out most of the residual cooking grease and put it away with a thin
film of the oil still on it. (This is why Grandma's cast iron is so
beautifully seasoned--that's the way she did it.)
What oil you use will affect the flavor of the food you cook in the pan as
the seasoning layer builds up. If you've used Fire Oil, or a garlic-y oil to
cook with, you'll eant to wash out that flavor and oil with a mild oil.
Cast iron is great, once you've gotten it started seasoning!
Madrugada
From: Hrothgar <bhurley at washington.xtn.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 19:19:16 -0400
Organization: Nant-y-Derwyddon, Meridies
Michael Greenstein wrote:
> Greetings unto all from Michael Alewright of the Marche...
>
> Um, why is "seasoning" so important for cast iron cookware?
>
> I've heard that such cookware is wonderful, but never used it, and might
> someday, so I figure this would be useful information!
>
> Regards,
> Michael Alewright of the Marche
> Barony Marche of the Debatable Lands
> (nearly!) Kingdom of Aethelmearc
Seasoning is the period version of Teflon.
I still like it better.
We have a skillet that has been used 30 years or so [not by me, but in the family]. If someone scrubbed it with detergent and a wire brush, I would instantly reach for sword & board.
Regards,
Hrothgar
From: drgnlair at nai.net (Bob & Nancy Upson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 23 Jul 1996 19:59:28 GMT
Organization: The Dragons' Lair www/BBS
zarquon at platinum.nb.net (Michael Greenstein) says:
> Um, why is "seasoning" so important for cast iron cookware?
'Seasoning' is a way of creating a 'no stick' surface by polymerizing
vegetable oils onto their surface. You end up with carbon layer that
rivals teflon for easy cleaning. Well seasoned iron cleans easily and
cooks better than any other container you're ever likely to try.
>I've heard that such cookware is wonderful, but never used it, and might
>someday, so I figure this would be useful information!
Do try it, it's particularly good for camping use (cast iron conducts heat
extremely well and helps distribute uneven heat from campfires better than
light weight pots and pans).
Macsen
From: rolf at deltainet.com (Pendraco)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 22:52:29 GMT
On 22 Jul 1996 17:01:29 GMT, zarquon at platinum.nb.net (Michael
Greenstein) wrote:
> Um, why is "seasoning" so important for cast iron cookware?
Seasoning a pan with oil (or shortening or lard or bacon grease, etc.)
is a very good way to keep things from sticking, and believe me, I can
clean scrambled eggs out of my favorite pan with running water and a
paper towel (I re-season or touch up the pan every twelve months or
so, barring accidents).
The Frugal Gourmet's instructions are a little more complete than
those given... Paraphrasing into
1. Put about a tablespoon of oil in the pan, wiping all of the inside
surface, and heat on medium burner (or equivalent) until the oil
begins to smoke.
2. Turn off the burner, and let it sit until cold. Scum will form on
the pan if it has been cleaned with soap of any kind. Blot it from
the surface with a paper towel, then pour out the oil.
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 with fresh oil or shortening.
He says to season this way three times total, but if this is a new
pan, twice will do (right after you get it home, rinse it out with
plain water and season) If this is an old pan, you might have to
season it three times and then season it again after each washing for
a few months -- it will be "done" when things like rice pilaf don't
stick when you're transferring the food out of the pan.
>I've heard that such cookware is wonderful, but never used it, and might
>someday, so I figure this would be useful information!
Cast iron is my favorite type of pan, but I have carpel tunnel in my
wrists so I can't lift any but the smallest skillets. I've been using
my grandmother's square skillet for about fifteen years (and I got it
after my mom used it for twenty years, and my grandmother for who
knows how long). It sounds like a lot of work, but it really only
takes a few seconds.
Some other notes:
High acid foods like tomato sauce will erode the oil (especially if
you let the pan sit while everyone is eating dinner), so just plan on
a touch-up after rinsing it.
The pans hold heat much longer and much more evenly than "regular"
cookware, especially anything coated with silverstone or teflon. The
pan itself will sit on the back of the stove and keep the food warm
enough for seconds. (Use an 8" skillet as the most versatile, and
borrow a lid that fits from any pan in your collection. I use the lid
for my Visions pan) When you first begin to cook with it, take it
easy. Bacon, sausage or hamburger are great "testing" foods because
they're high in fat and you won't have to reseason every time you burn
the burgers, unless they've turned into charcoal.
For really sticky things like oh, burnt pancake batter or breaded fish
(and worse...) use plain table salt as an abrasive. Pour a small
handful in the damp pan and scrub it well with a wet rag. PLEASE use
an old rag you don't plan on using for washing dishes, because black
stains will not come out of the rag. And, again, plan on
re-seasoning the pan.
The good news out of all this? You'll have a virtually indestructible
pan with only a few dollars investment. The pan will give iron to the
food cooked in it, giving you a slight nutritional boost. And for
sneaky chefs, rubbing the flat of the skillet with garlic before
seasoning it does WONDERFUL things to meat & fish...
Best wishes
Tatiana VonKeppel / Sarah Williams
Barony of Fettburg
Kingdom of the West
From: wayne at wam.umd.edu (Wayne McCullough)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 31 Jul 1996 12:44:29 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park, MD
Pendraco (rolf at deltainet.com) wrote:
: Seasoning a pan with oil (or shortening or lard or bacon grease, etc.)
^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have been told that you do not want to season with any form of oil/fat
that contains salt. Salt tends to accelerate corrosion of iron.
From experiance and what I have heard, you just can't go wrong with
standard cooking oil.
W
From: Vicente Coenca <76025.2514 at CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: "Seasoning" Cast Iron Ware
Date: 3 Aug 1996 13:43:48 GMT
Organization: rec.org.sca
Greetings to all on the Rialto.
I subscribe to a cooking magazine, and there was an article
several months back on cast iron cooking ware. The sidebar was
written by a Lodge Cast Iron Works rep, and gave details on how
to season properly. The recommendation was for melted Crisco or
other vegetable shortening, melted and generously spread over the
interior. Place in a 300F oven for about 30 minutes,
occasionally brushing the oil from the bottom up the sides. I
did this for a Dutch oven, and oh, did it work well. Had beef
stew and roast chicken at this past Lilies War.
Seasoning is an ongoing process; keep making greasy food in the
thing and cleaning it with boiling hot water and a scrub brush.
The bamboo brushes you find in Asian markets work very well. Dry
it on the stove, or use a paper towel. Do not use a dishwasher;
you'll lose the buildup of carbon and fats on the surface. Spray
Pam or wipe a little oil on it each time you store it; it'll keep
rust from building up. Eventually a satin-smooth finish should
build up, and you'll only need a little oil to keep food from
sticking.
I know cast iron isn't period, but hey, who cares?
Vicente Coenca, Three Rivers, Calontir
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:16:50 -0500
From: "Jeff Gedney" <JGedney at dictaphone.com>
Subject: Re: SC - a grid?
<snip of indo on cooking over a fire. See cook-ovr-fire-msg.
Then a question about how to season cast-iron cookware>
> I've read the directions that came with them, I read the entire
> Florilegium file, I've gone through rec.food.cooking. I understand
> the theory (heat instrument, coat in fat, let fat soak in, never scrub
> again) but it doesn't seem to "take". Rust shows up all the same; or
> food gets stuck to it anyways and I have to scrub and start from
> scratch. Every time.
>
> There. I've said it. I suck. :(
Nah, a lot of folk have lost the nack.
I do the following. ( my grandfather's technique )
Clean the pot as usual.
Start the old Backyard Barbecue grille (this is gonna smoke like crazy!!)
Heat the pot or pan very hot without applying oil or fat.
A drop of water should dance on the surface without wetting it.
Take paper towels, some long tongs, and some crisco.
When the skillet is very hot, put some crisco on the paper towel, and
using the tongs, quickly rub it all over the insides of the pot ( don't worry
about the outsides ). when it is all coated, stand back and wait for the
smoking to slow down. Do this again several times.
After you have done this, Let it stay on the grille until it almost stops
smoking. and remove it from the heat.
The idea of seasoning is to first, drive off the water in the iron, ( and
yes it is there, and a lot. watch it when you first heat it, it'll sweat visibly.
Replacing it with fat to keep it from re-entering the pores of the pan,
driving the fat into the surface with heat. then reducing the fat to fill
all the pores of the iron with a barrier surface of pure hard carbon.
(Grampa used to do this on the stove top, but once the neighbors
called the fire dept, cause they thought his house was on fire, from
the amount of smoke pouring out of the kitchen window.)
( you'll still see rust, occasionally. No problem. It should cook fine unless
you see lots of rust, and not a fine powdery spot of it.
A little rust is taken off by rubbing it with oil.
---Instead of cleaning it in the sink, just knock off the bulk of the crud
with some oil and a tablespoon of Kosher salt as an abrasive, while the
pot is still on the fire. As long as the surface feels smooth to the spoon
or spatula it is clean enough. Wipe out the pan with a coule of paper
towels and put it away.)
Brandu
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 07:40:44 -0400
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
From: "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] CAST IRON SKILLET
Also sprach Phlip:
> Ordinarily, whatever you cook will use oil- it's basicly for fried
> foods.
While this is true, I think we may need to define "fried", or at
least maybe add sauteed, pan-broiled, baked etc. I often use my
largest cast-iron skillet for pizza, since I don't have one of those
silly oven stone thingies, and it does a truly excellent job for that.
> If it does get dirty, you can use a scrubble or whatever to remove the
> crusted on stuff, and a bit of clean water to rinse it off, but put it on your
> stove to heat dry, then oil it again and put it away. You don't want a lot
> of oil on it- you don't want to attract diret and dust- just enough added
> while it's still hot to give it a sheen- as it cools, the oil will withdraw
> into the pores.
Again, true. Think of it like an oil-soaked sponge; there may not be
a lot on the surface, but when properly seasoned, it's in there.
Another aspect of that porosity (porousness?) is that some of that
oil undergoes a chemical change with repeated heating and usage, and
what you end up with is those pores being filled, to some extent,
with a plasticky substance (note that most plastics are made from
petroleum) which is essentially non-stick.
I, being a Y-chromosome-bearing life form, give most cast iron pans a
brief soak in plain water, maybe a couple of hours at most, to
dislodge any crud, and then scrub with a soft scrungy-pad or my
wok-brush (which tool I highly recommend for most pans, BTW). Or,
since I have a nice wok-brush, I borrow the technique of the cooks in
Chinese restaurants and wash the pan with the brush under running hot
water immediately, while still hot, so the pan can get back into
action in 15 seconds or so. I'm able to do an entire meal of several
dishes that way, all using the same pan.
Another hint involves the cooking of meats, say, a steak, for
example. James Beard used to recommend (and I've found that it works
pretty well) a thin dusting of Kosher or other coarse salt in a dry
pan for pan-broiling steaks. Basically it keeps the meat from
sticking long enough for the fat of the meat itself to begin to flow
and lubricate the pan (as well as seasoning the meat at the same
time).
I'd be interested in how Phillipa's Kosher kitchen and eating habits
(at least I _think_ that's the situation) are affected by cast iron
cookware, what with the tendency of the pans to absorb fats. I'm
assuming that you'd have to have a meat pan and a dairy pan, one
impregnated with meat fats and one with butter and oil, both of which
should work just fine, and this is probably no different from a
similar situation with other cookware. Have I overlooked anything
major?
Adamantius
From: "Heleen Greenwald" <heleen at ptdprolog.net>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 19:52:21 -0400
Subject: [Sca-cooks] more on the... CAST IRON SKILLET
Yes, Master A, you'd have to have a meat skillet and a separate dairy
skillet in a kosher home.
Phillipa
From: "Beth Turner" <nellwynn0 at lycos.com>
Date: Tue Jun 17, 2003 1:47:02 PM US/Central
To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Other cookery storage question
If you flat can't get the pot to season for some unknown reason, use it
to make rose and/or peony beads. If you boil them down in an
unseasoned true cast iron pot, you get the loveliest black material
with which to make beads. Put rose oil on your fingers when you role
them and they even smell good.
Nell de Percy
From: peerlady at hotmail.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Cast Iron
Date: 18 May 2004 15:37:21 -0700
> After you wash them, dry them with a towel and then sit them on a warm
> burner to dry thoroughly.
Make sure it's a *warm* burner, not a hot one. Split one of
Grandma's skillets in half once when I underestimated the heat of the
burner. Or you can put it in a warm oven to dry.
-- Signy
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 21:24:26 -0400
From: "Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] "virgin" cast-iron cookware - help, please.
To: "Cooks within the SCA" sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I have not tried lard, but I have tried both vegetable oil and solid
> vegetable shortening (ie Cisco). I definitely prefer the Crisco. It is less
> messy and I think it gives a better result.
>
> Also, whatever you use, it may take more than one treatment to get a
> good seasoned surface.
>
> Cynara
Actually, you spend your wqhole life trying toget a perfectly seasoned
surface ;-)
Seasoning cast iron is not one of those things that you can do and be done
with- rather it's a process that's ongoing throughout your ownership of your
pot or pan. Following the instructions here will give you a goo start
towards proper seasoning, but it will take years of usage to get it to the
proper point where you can do something wrong (NOT including using soap, or
dropping the pot) and the seasoning will ignore it, or fix it for you.
Saint Phlip,
CoD
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 10:57:19 -0400
From: "Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Not so Virgin Cast Iron Question
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> My brother just gave me a nice size cast iron kettle. Now I happen to love
> cast iron for use around the mundane house. The problem is that this
> particular pot was used to cover something outside and only recently
> rescued. The interior bottom is badly pitted and rough. The question is:
> Is it worth putting the scrubbing and possibly sanding with a disc sander
> into this? Should I use it as a planter?
>
> Regina
Rather than sanding it, and taking away even more metal, in this case,
I'd use the Powers of Electricity to clean it up.
First thing you need is a large plastic container, in which you can totally
submerse the pot. You need to fill the plastic container with water, then
put salt in the water until it will not absorb any salt- you can get a
higher salt content by making the water hot. Then install the pot, with the
cathode (positive connection) onto the pot, and the negative contact into
the water, attached to a piece of metal that you don't mind getting messed
up. The piece of electrical equipment that you use for all this is just a
(car) battery charger, set on trickle. In a few hours, your pot should be
perfectly clean, or at least as perfectly clean as it's going to be. This
method is inexpensive, easier than it sounds, and you can borrow most of
what you need to do it- all it will cost you is some salt and some
electricity- it's what I use to clean up metal. Note- If the metal in the
water stays clean, and the pot appears MORE corroded, you've hooked up the
electricity in the wrong direction- just switch the contacts.
Another method will be more expensive, and difficult to find someone to do
it for you. You need to find a shop that does sandblasting, using walnut
shells (first choice) or powdered glass as the blasting media- neither of
these will eat up the metal.
Once you've done this, you'll be able to season your pot as usual, and
return it to cooking- unless it's VERY bad (as in, so corroded that it's
likely to break any way) it should be fine for cooking.
Saint Phlip,
CoD
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 09:21:22 -0400
From: "Jeff Gedney" <gedney1 at iconn.net>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Not so Virgin Cast Iron Question
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Phosphoric acid does a very good job of removing rust...
It actually pulls oxygen from the iron.
Try scrubbing it with steel wool and Coca Cola.
It has worked for me in the past...
Capt Elias
-Renaissance Geek of the Cyber Seas
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 08:50:54 -0400
From: "Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Seasoning a Potjie
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I just got a cast-iron three-legged potjie (Thanks to Master Guntram) and I
> was wondering what is the best way to go about seasoning it. I suspect this
> woll require open fire, won't it? it certainly won't fit on my range.
>
> Giano
Will it fit in your oven? If so, oiling it down, and putting it in the oven
at 500 for an hour will do it. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation. If
you must use a lower temp, increase the time accordingly- you'd do 350 for
about 3 hours. The idea is to get a layer of carbon burned onto it.
Alternative fire sources work quite well, too- I just used my forge for the
cast iron pan I rescued from the scrap yatd, although it didn't need much- I
just thoroughly cleaned it (baking soda scrub, then vinegar boil), applied a
light layer of peanut oil (vegetable oil is best for seasoning) and used it
as a lid over the forge when I was done smithing.
Saint Phlip,
CoD
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 12:18:55 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Seasoning a Potjie
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I just got a cast-iron three-legged potjie (Thanks to Master Guntram) and I
> was wondering what is the best way to go about seasoning it. I suspect this
> will require open fire, won't it? it certainly won't fit on my range.
>
> Giano
Mordonna the Cook replied:
> Never tried that one. How about a large barbecue grill? Phlip's
> forge sounds good. Problem with almost any thing that applies heat
> in a limited area (like the paint stripper) won't get an even season.
That's true. But my suspicion is that this could still be true of
almost any method used. Gee, I didn't catch where in the country the
original poster is, but if it's someplace that gets hot and sunny,
they might think about rubbing the pot down with oil and leaving it
out in the sun for several hours to start the process. If nothing
else, it would probably provide relatively even heating. That might
conceivably provide enough of a minimal seasoning to think about
finishing the process through actual use with a cooked product
designed not to stick too badly, like a thinnish but slightly fatty
stew, maybe something like lamb or veal breast.
After all, it's probably true that in the end, what you do to keep a
well-seasoned pot maintained is at least as important as the original
seasoning, since proper use increases the seasoning on the pot.
Adamantius, who doesn't have a whacking great iron pot, but who owns
and uses a lot of cast iron and carbon steel pans...
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2005 14:08:32 -0400
From: "Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Seasoning a Potjie
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> If we can arrange this, I think the best thing would be to have a big
> fire there, season the pot for a few hours while digging the garden, then try
> bake a roast in clay in the embers and use the potjie for a veggie stew and/
> or bread to go with it. Sounds like the perfect way to spend a
> Saturday.
>
> Giano
Caution- you don't want flame while you're seasoning- it'll just burn up the
oil. Make a bed of coals, add the pot, then you can add more wood to the
fire area, and scrape coals towards the pot as the wood becomes coals.
Also, just because the pot is black doesn't mean it has cooled. Either plan
on leaving the potjie there until the fire is dead out, or arrange some way
to move it without you touching it- a bar that can go through the bail, and
lift it, with one of you on each end, for example. You do NOT want to cool
the thing suddenly, or it will crack or break- cast iron is pretty fragile.
I know, I've broken it ;-) And once it's broken, it's pretty worthless.
There are ways to weld it, but it's never as good as it was before it broke,
and it can't readily be remelted and reformed.
Saint Phlip,
CoD
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 12:31:42 +0000
From: ekoogler1 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Re: Dutch Ovens
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
One small tip to add to what was said: salt works really well to get out things that are cooked on. Mix a little with oil and use it to scour the stubborn spot. I can't begin to emphasize the idea that you don't want soap used on your pot unless you want to go back and re-season it!
Kiri
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 14:27:08 -0400
From: "marilyn traber 011221" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Rust removal
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I wrote:
>> I really hate having to bring out the wire brushes for my cookware!
>
> Which reminded me: what do the members of this august company
> prefer for rust removal from cast iron? My mother just gave me her
> old ableskiver pan and it's awfully rusty. This is going to be
> difficult. I'm hesitant to dive in with chemical rust removers
> because then the trick is to remove the remover before using the pan
> for actual food without chemicals. You see the quandry.
>
> In the meantime, I'm going out to get a wire brush that will attach
> to my power drill, that may save some elbow grease anyway.
>
> Selene Colfox
Don't waste your time with a wire brush- they're pretty dangerous anyway,
when one of the wires comes loose, if you aren't wearing a leather apron. A
guy just managed to impale his left testicle through his jeans a few days
ago. And, never mind, using a wire brush tends to drive the rust deeper, so
your food will taste like rust for a while.
Instead, get a battery charger. You should have one, if not, you need one ;-)
Put one contact on the metal you're cleaning, attach the other to a piece of
scrap metal- iron or steel- and immerse the pieces in salt water in a plastic
container, separated a bit. Turn the charger on to "trickle" and go away for
a while. If when you come back, the piece of metal has rust attached to it,
you're doing it the right way- if not, you need to switch the clamps, so the
polarity goes the other way (I can never remember which way it goes, and for
Heaven's Sakes, turn the thing OFF when you switch the clamps).
It's completely the easiest way to remove rust I know of, and doesn't risk
driving nasty stuff into your cast iron, and, depending on how much rust you
have, shouldn't take more than a few hours to accomplish.
Phlip
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 13:27:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carole Smith <renaissancespirit2 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Rust removal
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
One thing that gets off a thin layer of rust from cast iron is a
little Crisco and a paper towel. Not as exciting a remedy without
use of power tools, but it works for me.
Cordelia
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:53:10 -0400
From: "marilyn traber 011221" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Rust removal
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> This is not a "thin layer" but I think it frightens me less than
> Phlip's battery charter method. I live alone and probably nobody
> would find me for days... eeep.
>
> Selene C.
Battery charger method is quite safe ;-) It's also incredibly easy. It's certainly considerably safer than putting a wire brush on the end of a power tool- THAT can get you seriously hurt. And, the residue from the charger method (the water) can simply be flushed down the toilet or the sink (you don't want to pour it on your garden because of the salt in the water). It works very well, too- it's how I've been cleaning
up the cast iron pieces my favorite scrapyard's been giving me.
Phlip
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 17:28:02 -0400
From: "grizly" <grizly at mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] Rust removal
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
STUPENDOUS! I did a google search for rust removal and Mr. Wizard . . . .
found this website from a guy who does the same thing with old tools.
http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/workshop/electrolysis.php
The negative (black) goes to the "keeper" piece and the positive (red) goes
to the sacrificial scrap piece. He added some baking soda as a catalyst to
speed up his electrolysis. The following link has a better description; both
have pictures. This one uses "washing soda" which you can find in most
markets. Arm and Hammer is usually unscented and plain.
https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/electrolysis/electrolysis.htm
Use salt water, washing soda (sodium carbonate . . . NOT baking soda) and a
piece of wrinkled aluminum foil to clean silver pieces. Immerse all and put
silver in touch with the foil . . . no electrodes needed. Silver Plate
isn't so helpful, but sterling cleans with zero effort.
nioccolo difrancesco
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 19:17:09 -0400
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Rust removal
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Carole Smith wrote:
> One thing that gets off a thin layer of rust from cast iron is a
> little Crisco and a paper towel. Not as exciting a remedy without
> use of power tools, but it works for me.
>
> Cordelia
Add some kosher salt. It gives some abrasive scrubbing power without
damaging the metal or imparting a strange taste. Crisco/cooking oil and
kosher salt is also good for scrubbing food residue from cast iron
without removing the seasoning.
--
Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 18:08:52 -0400
From: "Saint Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Cast Iron pots??
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
On 5/31/06, Marcus Loidolt <mjloidolt at yahoo.com> wrote:
> cousins and friends all, I have a question...having no clue to the answer,
> can cast iron be recycled? I have one that has a sizable crack in it...it
> won't hold water....
> can a metal worker use this for remaking something or just pitch it/
> change its use?
>
> Abot Johann
Well, I _can_ be welded, but that doesn't work very well for any object that
goes through heating and cooling cycles like a cook pot does, as the welding
filler is usually a nickel alloy, and heats and shrinks at a different rate.
I have heard of some of the folks doing smelting throwing some cast iron in
with the ore for a smelt with some success- in an anaerobic, reducing
environment, cast iron will lose much of its carbon and go back to being a
ductile version of steel, but there just aren't that many who smelt in SCA.
Best bet, if you want to recycle it is to use it as a flower pot holder, if
it's arractive enough, or just send it to the scrapyard. Commercial smelters
can deal with it, unlike most hobbyists.
--
Saint Phlip
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 23:01:51 -0400
From: "Saint Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] OOP but not OT-seeking advice on a cast-iron
hibachi
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Well, for starters, rather than elbow grease, clean it up the easy way
;-) If you have a battery charger (for cars), place the hibachi in
salty water, with one electrode attached to the hibachi, and the other
electrode attached to another piece of steel (not stainless) or iron
(which is also in the salt water, but not touching). Turn the charger
on to trickle charge, and leave it alone for a few hours. When you
come back, there should be rust on the sacrificial piece of metal, and
less rust on the hibachi. If not, swap electrodes (I can never
remember which one is which- I think the ground goes on the hibachi,
and the positive on the metal, but don't quote me on that).
Once you have it cleaned up, treat it like any other cast iron- wipe
it down with your favorite edible oil and season it. You can season
the outside by starting a charcoal fire in it after the outside is
wiped down with oil, and you can season the inside by putting the
whole thing in/over a small campfire's coals, or, if it will fit, oil
the whole thing down and put it in the oven at 350 or so for a couple
of hours. Just remember to take any wooden or plastic pieces off of it
before you do ;-)
On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 11:41 PM, Daniel & Elizabeth Phelps
<dephelps at embarqmail.com> wrote:
I loaned the hibachi to some friends to take to Gulf Wars a while back-I believe it was the Gulf Wars that got rained out, and they returned it to me rusty. I was entirely unenthused with this, one of the many reasons those individuals are not friends any more. It's only surface rust as I recall, and it's been in storage ever since, as I really wasn't sure what to do with it. I can figure out how to clean it, steel wool/wire brush/wire brush on a drill, that's not too hard to figure out, just a lot of elbow grease and some very colorful language speculating on the ancestry and hobbies of said former friends, but then what? Do I use soap and water with the steel wool and wire brushes, or do I just use them dry? And how do I keep it from rusting again? I though of stove polish, but googling this topic seems to indicate this would just not be suitable. Would cast iron stove paint be appropriate? It's a charcoal-burning hibachi, not a wood stove, so I assume the operating temperatures would be higher. Or do I clean it off and just use it naked? ( The stove, not me...)
Isabella de la Gryffin
Barony of Oldenfeld, Trimaris
Tallahassee, Florida
--
Saint Phlip
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 13:15:26 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Another cast iron question
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Two points. You don't season cast iron tea kettles. They are going to
rust.
Since there is no particular virtue in boiling water in an iron tea kettle,
I use a stainless steel teapot and an old timey blue enameled coffee pot.
Tetsubin are strictly for making tea, not for boiling water, so I'm
assuming one of the full size cast iron tea kettles like my grandmother had.
For maintenance after you get it clean the first time, don't let water sit
in the kettle. Use it and pour the water out. Take the lid off and return
it to the heat to cook off any excess moisture. Wipe the kettle down with a
dry soft cloth to remove any particulate matter. When it rust to the point
you want to clean it, scour the inside with a little damp sand, rinse and
put on the heat to cook off the moisture. Yeah, it's a pain, another reason
to not boil water in cast iron.
Bear
<<< I've been cleaning and caring for decades, but this one has me stumped. My
daughter (the brunette who acts ditzy, not the blonde who acts intelligent)
knows I love to cook with cast iron when camping. So, when she saw an
antique cast iron teapot at a yard sale, she bought it for me. It must have
been a true yard sale, because the thing was covered with mud, and rust, and
other nasty things. I've got it nice and clean now, and I've seasoned it. It's a beautiful shiny black, again.
But, ya know what? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to use it to
boil water without getting the water either oily or rusty. Anyone have
suggestions or solutions?
Lady Anne du Bosc Known as Mordonna The Cook >>>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 15:21:01 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Another cast iron question
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Those kettles weren't so much for humidification, but for instant hot water
for the sink before gas ranges and water heaters. A well pump at the
kitchen sink and hot water on the stove were modern conveniences in the
first half of this century.
Gas replaced the wood stove at my grandmother's around the time I was born,
but the pump at the kitchen sink lasted until it was replaced by city water
in the late 1950's or early '60's.
Bear
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 11:01:28 -0500
From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy at softwareinnovation.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Another cast iron question
To: "'Cooks within the SCA'" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
When my mom needed to de-rust a cast iron skillet, she would leave it in the
oven through a "clean" cycle, wash off the powdered remains, then re-season
as usual.
Betsy
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 12:03:51 -0700
From: Dragon <dragon at crimson-dragon.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Another cast iron question
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Daniel & Elizabeth Phelps did speak thusly:
<<< But I have another question about using edible oils to season the
hibachi-it's not huge, I think it would probably fit in the oven,
but what would keep the oil from going rancid? I don't think we'd be
using it more than half a dozen times a year, outside of hurricane
season and local SCA events. >>>
You don't just wipe the oil on, you heat it to the point it
polymerizes. That is what is happening to create that black sheen of
the season on the surface. Rancidity occurs because of oxidation of
the oil, this is just not possible with the polymerized fat because
all of the weak molecular bonds that would normally oxidize have been
cross-linked to other fat molecules and now form a very large network
that is difficult to react with oxygen.
<<< So, still playing devil's advocate and asking questions, why would
cast iron stove paint not be appropriate? It seems to me the usage
of a cast iron hibachi is closer to a cast iron woodburning stove
than a pan that you use every day. >>>
My hibachi is painted. It came that way from the factory and it has
remained well coated. I don't use it a lot and it really has not
rusted in the 18 months or so I have had it. I think it is a much
better solution than seasoning if you get a paint that is designed
for such temperatures (like the stove paint you mention or other
"engine" paints).
The problem with seasoning is that you will burn it off fairly
quickly anywhere the burning charcoal is near the iron. It cannot
withstand the temperatures of the direct contact.
Dragon
From: Hugh Prescott <hugh at QUINCYHOBBY.COM>
Date: May 31, 2010 5:59:24 PM CDT
To: CALONTIR at listserv.unl.edu
Subject: Re: [CALONTIR] Rust Removal
For fine rust on iron and steel I use 3M Scotch pads and WD-40 or lite oil and just scrub a lot. Saved a nice 12 inch metal lathe that sat for years in a barn unused.
Lite rust on not precision surfaces and deep rust I use abrasive wheel grinder then treat with phosphoric acid to convert any remaining rust into black iron. Wash well after a day in the acid. Dry well and protect with a clear lacquer or prim and paint. phosphoric acid does not attack steel or iron only oxides of iron.
phosphoric acid is a great metal prep for any type of painted finish as it etches the steel for better adhesion. I get it at auto supply stores that carry automotive paint and refinishing products.
Current project is a 48 inch John Deere mower deck that has been rode hard and put away with wet grass stuck to it. Rust everywhere. Sand blaster then treated with phosphoric acid, welded up the cracks and primed now ready for yellow paint.
Deere wanted $1,089.00 for just one new part, (I paid $800 for the tractor and deck used) I will have a completely restored and usable deck for about $150 plus some bearings that need to be replaced.
Hugh
Amanda wrote:
<<< I have an older loom which has metal parts which have some rust in them.
This is one of my looms which is still disassembled so I can work the pieces separately.
How do I remove rust without using a chemical or washing? Can i just use a fine steel wool? I dont want it do go back to mint condition, just not so rusty it stains my fingers brown.
Once I have removed the rust to my liking how do I keep it from rusting? Lightly oiling? what kind of oil?
Amanda. >>>
From the Facebook "ABTF-Above the Fire, Cooking for re-enactors" group
Diana Shell Wertz 1:16pm Nov 7
As for cleaning the rust I was told this method by an old timer at an antique gathering of sellers,......He said it will get rid of THE WORST rust,...and it DOES. TOTALLY non-chemically/safe,.....and totally FREE. He said to go ahead and set the rusty pan in a pan of water,...it'll help soften the rust,...and soak a broken brick piece (not as heavy to handle as a whole one,...) and in about 30 minutes,...start scrubbing at the rust with the brick,.....the brick will NOT scratch the pan like a metal brush will,...the water acts as a lubricant and both brick dust and rust will just flow off into the water, so you aren't breathing airborn brick and rust dust,.... When all the visable rust is gone,...rinse the pan in some clear water (and maybe a bit of dishwashing soap) and then towel dry, and leave in the sunshine to finish drying,....or set it over a low flame/heat until it's totally dry,......then lightly coat it with oil,.(I actually use mineral oil, as it's not inclined to gum.. leave a few minutes, then wipe it down with a paper towel and warm a few minutes more,...and put away
<the end>