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Generic-Clths-art - 10/2/11

"Generic Clothes - Tunic, Skirt, Shirt, and Pants" by Caitlin nic Raighne.

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NOTICE -

This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium.

These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

Thank you,

Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous

stefan at florilegium.org

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NOTE: See more work by this author on her webpage at: http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/

Generic Clothes

Tunic, Skirt, Shirt, and Pants

by Caitlin nic Raighne

FOUR WAYS TO LOOK MORE MEDIEVAL

1. Wear some kind of head covering. It is warm in the winter, protects from the sun in the summer, and completes the look of your clothing.

2. Wear more than one layer. An under tunic can act as a "t -shirt " so t hat you don't have t o wash your fancy over tunic which you have spent so much time hand embroidering. Having extra absorbent fabric, such as linen, next to you in t he summer w ill keep you more comfort able.

3. Use enough material. Skirt s and tunics should have a good amount of fullness in t he hem. It makes it easier to move, and looks very nice. In addition, skirt s on women should go to at least t he ankle (not mid-calf) and t o the floor is better.

4. Enjoy yourself! By changing into "garb", you can change your out look on t he world from modern to medieval. It can mark t he difference between "the real world" and t he Society.

The Generic Tunic

LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS

MATERIALS

• A piece of 54" - 60" wide fabric t hat is twice t he desired length of t he tunic.

• modern shirt t hat fits comfort ably

• bias t ape

Many people find cotton to be an economical substitute to linen and wool. If you choose to use cotton, you will be happier in pure cotton than in polyester-cotton blends. In general, a woven geometric pattern that is symmetrical w ill look believable. During t he middle ages, colors varied greatly, so don't worry too much about t hat as long as t hey are colors that can be made by natural means. I recommend that you stay away from florescent and pearlized colors.

Step 1

Take the fabric and fold it in half from selvage to selvage then fold it in half lengthwise. (A selvage is t he finished edge of t he fabric).

Step 2

Use chalk and the shirt, folded in half lengthwise, to draw the out line of the tunic on the fabric as shown. Cut out t he out line.

Step 3

Create the keyhole neckline by measuring around your neck and adjusting the circle shape until you have one that looks like the diagram below. It is also important to determine the depth of the slit in front. Take the difference between your neck measurement and your head measurement and divide in half. This is the minimum amount of slit that you will need to get the opening over your head. You may make t he slit longer if desired. Draw the neck opening on the fabric, centering as show n. Be very careful to cut t he opening and t he slit along t he grain of the fabric.

Step 4

When getting ready to cut out the neckline, fold the tunic in half lengthwise. It is a good idea to also iron a crease into the fabric at the shoulder line. Then place the neck facing so that all but about 1" of the neck opening is to the front of the shoulder line.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

General Sewing Tips:

1. It is very import ant to pre-shrink all fabric and trim. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.

2. All seams are t o have 1/2" seam allowances.

3. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.

4. Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.

5. Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.

6. Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.

7. Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.

SEWING DIRECTIONS

Step 1

Finish the neckline edge any way you prefer. You may create a facing, or a more period method would be to bind the neckline edge with bias tape. Start the bias tape at the center back or at the bottom of the slit .

Step 2

Attach whatever trim is desired, now, while the garment is flat. Good choices of location for trim are around the neck and at the arm bicep or sleeve edge. Mostly it seems that the hems were not embellished in the middle ages. Choices of patterns for trim can include just about anything that doesn't look too modern such as diamonds, circles, squares, rectangles, elaborate birds and beasts. Don't use animals or flowers that look too realistic. Stay away from anything obviously made with Mylar, pearls, or pearlized colors.

Step 3

Sew the side seams together.

Step 4

Hem the garment. Be sure that the fullness at the sides of the body is rounded so that the hem does not hang down unevenly.

Accessories

HATS

One of the most useful things to own is some kind of headwear. Not only does it protect your head from the sun or the cold, but it keeps off random dirt and helps prevent hair tangles.

Cap or Coif

Only very rarely would an adult be seen without some type of hat. Coifs are wonderful for keeping the head warm, or for absorbing sweat under a helmet. Coifs can be made from linen, wool, or to save money, from cotton. This pattern is for the pre-1500 style that is one or two pieces.

Fold a piece of white linen or cotton in half. The edges should stop at the bottom of your ears. Have a friend pin the fabric along the top and back of your head to make it snug. Sew on the pinned line. Trim off the peak and add ties.

After 1500 the 3-piece coif became more popular. This design eliminates the wrinkles at the top of the head by having a strip that runs from the forehead to the nape of the neck. It is fairly self-explanatory.

Veils

Women's veils were circles of white cloth (usually linen) held on with bands of the same fabric. Use opaque lightweight fabric. Sometimes veils were square and used as a shawl over the tops of the shoulders, but for a beginning veil I recommend a round veil, about 1' in radius (2' in diameter). The bands that hold the veil on are thin strips, about 1" wide, and about a foot and a half long. Fasten the first one with a straight pin under your chin and passing over the top of your head, just forward of your ears. Pin the next one across your forehead, circling your head parallel to the ground. Fasten it also to the chin band where they cross. The veil is then pinned to the bands at the center front, center top, and the sides where it lies over the crossed bands over your ears.

BELTS

Belts during this time were not very complicated. A belt a few inches longer than your waist, with a simple buckle is all that is needed. The extra length of belt is then knotted around the buckle.

BELT POUCHES

Another thing that is very, very useful for SCA clothing is a belt pouch. We all need a way to carry our authorization cards, driver's license, car keys, etc. The belt pouch is one way to do this. Most illustrations of the time period show the pouches hanging around the knee to lower thigh of the wearer. The basic pouch can be made out of leather or fabric. The easiest method is to take a simple U shape, sew along the bottom and edges, and put a draw string at the top. If you want to get fancy you can line it or decorate it.

Generic Gathered Skirt

In order to create a perfect silhouette it is most important to understand how a well-made shirt should fit. It should:

• move attractively

• flow well over the hips

• stand well out at the hem, regardless of the rigidity of the petticoats

• hang evenly across the front so as not to trip the wearer

• continue to wear well even after several years of use

• should return to an attractive and intentional position after movement

The human waist is not a straight line parallel to the floor. Instead it sits at an angle with the front waist 1" - 2" lower than the back.

LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS

MATERIALS

• 4 yards of 54" fashion fabric

• 4 yards of 54" lining fabric

• sewing thread

• skirt hooks and eyes

• t rim as desired

MEASUREMENTS

• __ _ A = waist t o floor at center back

• __ _ B = to floor at side over the hip

• __ _ C = waist t o floor at center front

• __ _ D = waist measurement + 1"

• __ _ E = waist measurement x 3 + 1/4 yard

These numbers are for general reference. Always take the natural measurements first before undergarments are added. You never know when you will need them.

This skirt is made with a long rectangle of fabric gathered or pleated onto a waistband. The first mistake most clothiers make with this skirt is to fail to drop the waist sufficiently in front. Consequently, the front is too long and the back is too short.

It is also important to realize that the skirt itself has thickness. The length of the skirt will be shortened slightly because it sits over the hip (depending on the fullness of the skirt). An addition of a bum roll must therefore also be taken into account, as the depth of the roll will shorten the skirt as well.

If you wish to wear a bum roll under your skirt, place the bum roll on and re-take the original three measurements. If desired, add a hoop and repeat. These three sets of numbers will be your guide to the perfect skirt.

PATTERN

Step 1

Fold your lining fabric in half t he short w ay with t he fold t o the right .

Step 2

Because this skirt is basically a rectangle, there is not much need for an actual paper pattern. At the extreme right side of your fabric (by the fold), draw the back length (measurement A) over the bum roll including extra length for skirt fullness as though you are cutting on the fold. Draw a normal rectangle half the length of E.

Step 3

Draw a line at the approximate side (measurement B) and draw from the bottom up. This length will be shorter than the back length.

Step 4

Draw the height of the front (measurement C) also from the bottom up and then draw the sloping line that connects the top of all three lines. A skirt cut from this shape should, if measured correctly and made correctly, hang even with the floor. To add a train, simply add the extra length below the back and slope the shape down from the side seam area. The shorter the train, the farther forward the slope must end. Short trains that aren't sufficiently sloped will hang limp and flat rather than fan out.

Step 5

Repeat with the fashion fabric.

Step 6

Create a waistband by cutting a strip from the fashion fabric that is 6" wide by measurement D.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

General Sewing Tips:

1. It is very import ant to pre-shrink all fabric and t rim. Treat t he fabric as you would after the garment is complete.

2. All seams are t o have 1/2" seam allowances.

3. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.

4. Backstitch 1/4" at t he beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out .

5. Pin pieces of fabric being sew n together before sewing t o keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.

6. Always put "right" sides of fabric together w hen sewing.

7. Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out .

SEWING DIRECTIONS

This pattern works well for both underskirt and overskirts. Underskirts can open either on the sides, or in the back.

Step 1

Cut out all pieces and label for ease of identification. I prefer to use sticky notes.

Step 2

For a skirt that is open in the front, assemble the skirt by sewing the center back seams together. For a skirt that will open in the back, sew the center front seams to get her. Leave 8 - 10 inches open at the top of the back seam. If you want a closed front skirt, you will need to cut the fabric pieces at the side seam line. Sew the side seams, but leave 8 - 10 inches open at the top on both sides. Sew the center back seams together, and then sew the center front seams together.

Step 3

Once the outer layer is fully assembled and pressed, trim can be added. It is import ant that the seam allowances be carefully manipulated to not catch in the stitching. Completely unadorned skirts are rarely seen. Almost always there are at least bands of complementary fabric. These bands can be put on after the lining is joined to the outer fabric in order to hold the lining to the outer skirt.

Step 4

Sew together the side seam allowances of the lining and the shell with wrong sides together.

Step 5

Stitch all around the out side edges to secure them. This is a delicate step as the slightest shift up or down of either layer will make the skirt hang incorrectly. Use lots of pins!

Step 6

Cut strips of a stiff fabric, like canvas, or heavy linen for facings. These strips should be 2 - 4 inches in width and on the straight of grain.

Step 7

Sew the lengths of facing fabric together end t o end and press t he seam allowances open. Press a 3/8 - 1/2 inch fold down t he entire length of one side.

Step 8

With right sides together, sew the facing down the center front, (closed front skirts omit that part), around the bottom hem and up the other side. Turn, press, and miter the corners. Hem the facing in place.

Step 9

Attach the skirt to the waistband.

For an open front or open back skirt:

• Starting from one end of the waist band, mark the middle (B) and quarter points (A) and (C) on the waist band. These marks will be used to align the skirt fabric.

• Lay out the length of skirt fabric and fold it in half. Mark the center point of the top edge. (B) Fold the fabric in half again and mark the two quarter points (A) and (C). Make these marks easy to find. I use straight pins.

• Pleat the skirt until the marks on the waist band and the skirt align.

• Pin t he waistband to the skirt with right sides together. Stitch.

• Turn seam allowances toward the waistband.

• Fold the waist band in half right sides together and stitch the ends.

• Turn right side out. Hand sew the edge over the seam. Press.

Step 10

For a closed front skirt, use two waist bands; one for the front and one for the back.

Step 11

Sew hooks and eyes to t he waist band.

Generic Shirt

By the 1500's the shirt had come into being as an article of clothing. It was worn underneath a vest, jacket, doublet, or other piece of outerwear. The shirt was considered to be underwear and people didn't go out without anything else on.

LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS

MATERIALS

• 3 1/2 yards of 45" fabric

• sewing thread

• 1 1/2 yards of ribbon or twill t ape for ties

MEASUREMENTS

__ _ A = Neck circumference + 1"

__ _ B = Wrist circumference + 1"

__ _ C = Shoulder point to shoulder point + 1"

__ _ D = Shoulder t o knee

__ _ E = Shoulder to wrist + 4"

Step 1

• Cut two body rectangles using measurement D x C. Divide your fabric in half lengthwise and then cut two sleeve rectangles using measurement E.

• Cut two collar pieces 2" by measurement A.

• Cut four cuffs 2" by measurement B.

• Cut two 4" rectangles. Cut two neck gusset pieces, 1" x 3" by 3 1/2".

• Cut a neck ruffle and wrist ruffles 1 1/2" X as long as possible, if you want ruffles.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

General Sewing Tips:

1. It is very import ant to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would aft er t he garment is complete.

2. All seams (except the seams to have lacing) are to have 1/2" seam allowance.

3. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.

4. Backstitch 1/4" at t he beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out .

5. Pin pieces of fabric being sew n together before sewing t o keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.

6. Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.

7. Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out .

SEWING DIRECTIONS

Step 1

Sew the shoulder seams together for the first six inches on each edge and press t he seams open.

Step 2

Insert t he neck gusset s into t he shoulder seams.

Step 3

Carefully clip the front body down 5-6 inches. Finish off the neck slit with a rolled hem that tapers down at the bottom. Finish off the very bottom with a buttonhole stitch.

Step 4

Pleat the center sect ion of the shirt onto one of the collar pieces leaving 1/2" seam allowance on the side edges of the band. Place the other band on top of the pleating and stitch. Do not sew the seam allowances. Press the collar aw ay from the neckline.

Step 5

If you are adding a ruffle, turn a narrow rolled hem on the short edges of both the neck and wrist ruffles.

Step 6

Pleat the neck ruffle to the collar. Make sure the edges of the ruffle are 1/2" from the band sides for seam allowance. Stitch.

Step 7

Turn in the side edges of the neckband.

Step 8

Fold the collar piece under and sew closed. If desired, insert a ribbon or tie into both edges of the neckband before sewing.

Step 10

Mark the four corners of the sleeve gusset as shown.

Step 11

Pin the gusset side A to one side of the sleeve. Stitch from small dot to small dot being sure to backtrack at the beginning and end of the seam.

Step 12

Fold the sleeve in half by bringing up the bottom edge. Flip the upper left corner down exposing the gusset. Pin the next side of the gusset to the other side of the sleeve.

Step 13

Stitch the underarm seam from the wrist to the dot on the gusset. Be careful not to catch the gusset in the seam allowance.

Step 14

Repeat steps 4 - 8 to make the cuffs.

Step 15

Pin t he sleeve t o the body being sure t o match the center t o the sleeve t o the shoulder seam. Stitch from one side of the gusset up and over the top of the sleeve, down t he other side t o where you began.

Step 16

Stitch the side seams from the dot on the gusset to the bottom of the shirt.

Step 17

Press the shirt hem up 1/4". Press it up again. Hand or machine stitch the hem.

Generic Pants

A lot of medieval costumes, especially for men, call for pants. These pants are very simple to make and do not require much fabric. These pants may not look pretty, but I promise you, your fighter will never pop the crotch seam!

MATERIALS

• twice t he length desired +1/2 yard of 45" fabric

• sewing thread

• cording ribbon for tie (I frequently use 72" black shoelaces)

MEASUREMENTS

• ___ A = Hip at the widest + 4"

•___ B = Thigh at the widest + 4"

•___ C = Crotch length / 2

•___ D = Inseam to ankle + 1"

•___ E = waist to ankle + 1"

NOTE: To get the crotch length, use a tape to measure around the middle of the body from the point where the top of the pants will be in front to where the top will be in the back, passing the tape between the legs. The tape should remain fairly loose when making this measurement. Divide this measurement by 2 to get the final crotch length.

Step 1

Take measurement E and cut the yardage into two equal pieces that length. Each will become a pants leg.

Step 2

Using chalk, draw a line horizontally across the fabric. Make the line 1/2 A minus 4". For example, if A=54", then 1/2 A = 27. By subtracting 4" from that = 22". Measure down 2" for the waistband and then begin step 3.

Step 3

Take measurement C and mark a curved line on each piece as shown in t he diagram to form the front crotch line.

Step 4

To make the back crotch line, go to the other side of the fabric, measure 1/2 of A, and mark this point. From there go down 18" and over 4". Connect these two points with a curved line. Mark this line "A".

Step 5

Mark an angled line from front and back crotch points to the length desired. Taper as desired.

Step 6

To make the gusset, cut a rectangle 18" long by about 8" wide. Fold that rectangle in half lengthwise. Measure down 10", and from that point trim to about 4" wide.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

General Sewing Tips:

1. It is very import ant to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.

2. All seams (except the seams to have lacing) are to have 1/2" seam allowance.

3. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.

4. Backstitch 1/4" at t he beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.

5. Pin pieces of fabric being sew n together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.

6. Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.

7. Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.

SEWING DIRECTIONS

Step 1

Sew inseams for both legs to within 2" of the short edge.

Step 2

Sew the long edge of the gusset t o the back crotch curve on each pant s leg.

Step 3

Sew the front crotch seam.

Step 4

Sew the remainder of the inseam together making sure to open all seam allowances and to match the edges.

Step 5

Baste center front seam allowance flat.

Step 6

Turn under the waist band 1/4" and sew.

Step 7

Measure down 1 1/4" on center front seam and sew two buttonholes - 1 on each side of the seam. Slit the buttonholes open.

Step 8

Turn the waist band down 1" and sew the fabric down to make a hem casing to thread a drawstring through.

Step 9

Hem the bottom of the legs.

Bag Lining a Garment

This is a method of lining a garment that I find simple and fast. It is not competition worthy.

Step 1

Complete the garment. If you have a serger, go ahead and serge-finish the seam allowances of both the garment and lining hems, side seams, sleeve hems, and underarm seams.

Step 2

Create a temporary hem on the garment. Hand baste all hems 1/4" up from the hems fold. Steam press the folds

Step 3

Complete the lining. Be sure and leave one side seam open through which you'll turn the garment right side out. Press all of the lining seams.

Step 4

Sew the lining to the garments front edges and hem, but leave unsewn the bottom 3" of the facing hems. Sew the garment and lining bottom together.

Step 5

Turn the garment by reaching through the opening. Grab the back neck area of the garment, pull the garment right side out through the opening.

Step 6

Sew the hem in place.

Step 7

Sew the sleeve lining hems to the garments sleeve hems.

Step 8

Hand stitch the lining's side seam opening closed.

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Copyright 2009 by Martha Rice. <caitlinnicraighne at hotmail.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited. Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.

If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.