Sharpng-Tools-art

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Sharpng-Tools-art - 8/21/02

"Sharpening Tools" by Master Tamlene ap Guidgen

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NOTICE -

This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium.

These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

Thank you,

Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous

stefan at florilegium.org

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Sharpening Tools

by Master Tamlene ap Guidgen

What you need:

1. A tool made of good steel

To get a very sharp edge on steel, the steel must be fairly hard. If the steel is also of high quality (i.e. tool steel), the edge will stay sharp for a long time. If you can sharpen several different blades to razor sharp edges, but you have one blade which you cannot put a sharp edge on, do not blame your technique. There are many knives available which are made of poor steel, on which you cannot put a good edge. Imitation Swiss Army knives (not Victronix) are a common source of sharpening frustration. Stainless steel knives require more work to sharpen. Be careful if you switch from stainless to carbon steel, as you might remove much more carbon steel than you intend.

2. Two sharpening stones

Two stones are sufficient for almost anyone's needs:

India combination stone for rough edging of the blade

Washita Arkansas stone for a final sharpening

If you insist on an even sharper blade, you may wish to add a stone called a 'Soft Arkansas' stone. There are two stones harder (finer) than the 'Soft Arkansas', but you don't really need them and they are hard to use. If you want to get a mirror polished edge, it is much easier use a buffing wheel with polishing compound rather than the harder stones. If you do this, remember you must angle the blade so that it does not catch on the wheel.

3. Cutting oil

It is very important to use cutting oil on a stone when sharpening a blade. During sharpening, small particles of metal are removed from the edge. If you do not use cutting oil, the metal particles will clog up your stone. Some people use water instead, but I don't think it works as well as cutting oil. Cutting oil can easily be made by mixing kerosene and new motor oil, half and half. A clogged stone (often the case with used stones) can often be cleaned by a trip or two through the dishwasher or several vigorous scrubbings with soap.

How to sharpen:

1. Use the fine side of the India combination stone to produce the right shape on the edge of the blade (a Vee shape). If you do not have a good solid Vee, there is no point in attempting to make the edge sharper. Serious nicks can be removed with the rough side of the stone. In general, the fine side of the stone is sufficient in any but severe cases.

2. Use the Washita stone to put a sharp edge on the blade. It is easiest to do this by feeling the drag of the blade increase just when the edge is at the correct angle to the stone. Use smooth strokes, and pretend that you are trying to slice a very thin layer off of the surface of the stone. The soft Arkansas stone is used just like the Washita, but it has a completely different feel, with much less drag.

3. Check for sharpness by shining a bright light on the blade while looking straight at the sharp edge. If you see shiny spots, then those spots are not sharp.

4. Wipe your stones clean! Wrap them or put them in a small box so that they don't chip.

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If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.