Eq-Head-Stand-art - 8/24/18
"Head Stand Construction" by THL Reinmar.
NOTE: See also the files: Mkg-Quintain-art, SCA-Horse-Act-art, Int-Equestran-art, Horse-Sense-art, Equ-Grnd-Crew-art, equest-hlmts-msg, Horse-Events-art.
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NOTICE -
This article was added to this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium, with the permission of the author.
These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author or translator.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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Head Stand Construction
By THL Reinmar MKA Brent Lecher
Introduction
These are quick and easy ways to construct durable head stands that pack well. When bundled end for end, they take up minimal space. They are manufactured using material readily available at hardware stores, craft stores, and beauty supply stores. You can use regular magnets, but be prepared to replace them over time. The cup magnets can be ordered online and attaching them with screws reduces maintenance substantially. Due to shipping costs, I recommend you consider ALL the equipment you will be building and make a single order for countersunk cup magnets. I recommend reed and head stands using my methods utilized countersunk rare earth magnets as well. These stands require a minimum of tools (hand saw, hammer, screwdriver, sliding T square, miter box, ruler, drill press, spade bits, and clamps. IKEqC does not specify the height of the stand for the heads, but recommends 5’. While I have listed sanding in the last step for each construction method, it works best to sand the components individually before beginning assembly.
Material:
· five 2” x 2” x 8’ boards per head stand set
· eight (required) or sixteen (optional) 3/8” countersunk rare earth cup magnets (for their holding power)
· four cosmetology heads (preferably male)
· 24” twine lanyard per head
· four metal electrical junction box covers
· eight or sixteen 11/2” wood screws
· wood glue
· eight (required) or sixteen (optional) 11/2” wood screws (must fit in cup magnets)
· sandpaper
· stain or paint
· urethane
· athletic tape & paint (optional)
· four 3/4” fence staples
· four dog leash type snaps large enough to go around the fence staples
· sixteen 2” screws or sixteen square masonry nails (these are optional)
Method 1 Stand Construction
1. Cut four 2”X2 X 8’s off at 5’.
2. Cut eight 6” pieces from the scrap 2” x 2” generated in STEP 1.
3. Mark one of the 6’ pieces generated in STEP 2 at 3” and draw a line across the 2” x 2” using the sliding T square.
4. Find and mark the center of the 2” side at the location Marked in STEP 3.
5. Using the sliding T square, mark a 45 degree angle though the mark in STEP 4. You should now have equally divided the 2” x 2” x 6” visually on one of the 6” faces.
6. Repeat STEPS 3 through 5 for the remaining three 6” pieces.
7. Insert a spade bit the diameter of your magnets into the drill press. Insert one of the 6” Pieces from STEP 5 and adjust the press such that the hole bored by the bit will be the depth of your magnet.
8. Bore a hole in the center of each 2” x 2” face of four of the eight 6” pieces from STEP 6 to form a socket for your magnets. Bore holes in all the 2’ x 2” faces if you are opting for 4 magnets per head.
Ear end view
9. Cut all eight 6” pieces along the lines marked in STEP 5 to form 16 “ears”.
10. Compare all the cut ears for length, gather them in groups of four, with all four ears in each group being as close to the same length and with two ears in each group having holes in them (for the 8 magnet set). You should have 4 sets of equal length ears with a socket for a magnet in two of the ears in each set (for the 8 magnet set) or sockets for magnets in all four ears (for the 16 magnet set). Number the long side of each set of ears, ie. 1,1,1,1 for the first set, 2,2,2,2 for the second set…
11. Number the top end of each upright along the 5’ face within 3” of the end.
12. Apply glue to the longest face of the two socketed ears from ear set 1. Glue and clamp these two ears on opposite sides of the 2” x 2” x 5’ with the square 2” x 2” face flush with the 2” x 2” end of post 1 from STEP 11. Be sure not to glue the ears to the numbered face. Drive two nails or a screw through each ear piece into the shaft for added strength (optional). Wife off excess glue from the joints.
13. Repeat STEP 12 for the remaining 3 stands.
14. Once the glue has dried, glue the remaining two ears from each set to the same numbered post, in the same manner as STEP 12 to create a “flanged mace” look.
with 2 optional magnets per stand
15. Cut the remaining 2” x 2” x 8’ at 5’ to form the pole used to mark the turning post needed in a heads course.
16. Make sure your stands will fit into the portable hole you will be using.
17. Sand and urethane or paint your stands as desired.
18. Screw the magnets into the sockets.
19. Drive one fence staple half way into the mitered face of one ear from each stand. Make sure the dog leash snap will hook onto this staple.
Head Attachment
1. Cover the cosmetology head with athletic tape and paint it (optional).
2. Screw a junction box cover to the bottom of your cosmetology head.
3. Tie a lanyard around the neck of your head.
4. Attach the dog snap to the other end of the lanyard.
5. Hook the dog leash snap onto the fence post staple for use and remove for transport and storage.
Method 2 Stand Construction
1. Cut four 2” x 2" X 8’ to 5’ minus the thickness of your magnet.
2. Follow steps 2 through 6 from Method 1.
3. Cut all eight 6” pieces along the lines marked in STEP 1 to form 16 “ears”.
4. Compare all the cut ears for length, gather them in groups of four, with all four ears in each group being as close to the same length as possible. Number the long side of each set of ears, ie. 1,1,1,1 for the first set, 2,2,2,2 for the second set…
5. Label the 5’ side of each of your posts within 3” of the top of the post.
6. Screw or glue your magnet to the top of your 2” x 2” 5 post.
7. Lay post 1 on the ground. Lay a scrap of 2” x 2” 90 degrees to the top of the post and against the magnet to form a “T”
8. Apply glue to the longest face of two ears from set 1. Glue and clamp these two ears on opposite sides of the 2” x 2” x 5’ with the square 2” x 2” face flush with the scrap 2” x 2”. Be sure not to glue the ears to the numbered face. Drive two nails or a screw through each ear piece into the shaft for added strength (optional). Wife off excess glue from the joints.
9. Repeat STEP 8 for the remaining 3 stands.
10. Once the glue has dried, glue the remaining two ears from each set to the same numbered post, in the same manner as in STEP 8 to create a “flanged mace” look. See Method 2 picture below.
Location of the staple
Method 2 head stand using craft magnets
11. Drive one fence staple half way into the mitered face of one ear from each stand. Make sure the dog leash snap will hook onto this staple.
12. Cut the remaining 2” x 2” x 8’ to 5’ for a turning post.
13. Make sure your stands will fit into the portable hole.
14. Remove the magnets from your stands.
15. Sand, paint, and urethane, or sand and urethane your stands.
16. Re-install the magnets. See Method 1 for head attachment.
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Copyright 2017 by Brent Lecher. <brent_lecher at yahoo.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited. Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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