Barbete-Filet-art - 4/25/18
"How to Make a Simple Barbette and Fillet" by HL Giraude Benet.
NOTE: See also the files: 13C-W-Headger-art, 2-Norse-Hoods-art, Cloth-Circlet-art, headgear-msg, Kolpac-art, Ldys-Headgear-art, Russian-Tffia-art.
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NOTICE -
This article was added to this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium, with the permission of the author.
These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author or translator.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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How to Make a Simple Barbette and Fillet
by HL Giraude Benet
March 3, 2017
The barbette and fillet is a distinctive set of headwear worn in the 13th and early 14th centuries. The barbette is a band that passes around the head under the chin, and is pinned to secure. The fillet is second band that is worn around the head. In some cases the fillet is worn tight to the head, but in other examples it rises up and sometimes out to be almost crown-like. The fillet could be smooth, or the flare could be pinched to give it a pleated effect. In examples from the Manesse Codes, the fillet has a ruffled "pie crust" look that could be achieved by rolling the top edge of a flared fillet down until it begins to form waves.
1. England c 1327 2. England 13th Century 3. Germany 1235
4. England c 1260 5. France 13th Century 6. Germany, 13th Century
(Shown in order of most simple to most ornate fillet.)
Making the Barbette
Measure your head from a point above one ear, across the head, under the chin, and to that same point on the opposite side of the head. Add your desired seam allowance x2 to this measurement for the total length. Cut one band this long and four inches wide across the width of your linen fabric.
The barbette can be wider or narrower if you choose, depending on the time and place you are re-creating.
Hem the long edges of this band by turning the edge under twice and stitching. Fold the edge of the end in half and sew together. Repeat for the other end. Press this flat to make a point at each end of the band.
Make a deep pleat in the center of the band to make it narrower in the middle. Press so that the pleat runs towards the ends of the barbette, but not all the way to the ends. If you desire a wider barbette, you can make more than one pleat.
(Pleat cross section)
Wear the barbette by placing the center under the chin and wrapping the ends so that they overlap. Pin at the sides of the head.
Some choose to make a seam at the crown of the head following the contour of the head, but this will make the barbette less adjustable should the linen stretch while wearing.
Making the Fillet
Measure around your head where you would like the fillet to rest, and the add your desired seam allowance plus about 2 inches for overlap.
Cut a band this length, and four inches wide across the width of the linen. (Like the barbette, the fillet can be wider or narrower, depending on the time and place you are re-creating.)
Fold this band along the length. Sew by into a tube by hand or machine, closing one end. Turn and hand-finish the other end.
Take your fillet to your ironing board and give it a good pressing with starch to stiffen. If you want a fillet with a bit of a curve to make it flair out, you can press this in to your fillet at the ironing board (be sure the fold is at the top, since this is the edge that will stretch). You can achieve a greater flare if you cut your fillet on the bias of the fabric, but of course that takes more fabric.
Pin the ends of the fillet together to fit your head. Some people choose to make the fillet a continuous band, but this makes it less adjustable should the fabric stretch while wearing, you are wearing a veil or hairnet under your fillet, or if you should want to loan your fillet to a friend.
(Fillet with curve pressed in. This is not the ironing board, but a cutting board to show the curve.)
Young women can wear their hair flowing underneath the barbette and fillet, but otherwise the hair should be arranged, covered with a crespine (hairnet) or St. Brigitta coif/huva, and then the barbette and fillet. A veil can be worn either over or under the fillet.
For more images, please visit my "Barbette and Fillet" Pinterest board at http://pin.it/tDGWS8V .
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Copyright 2018 by Jill Sibley. <giraudebenet at hotmail.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited. Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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