chain-o-estat-msg - 4/11/15

Chain of Estate. Also called "Collar of Estate" or "Collar of Orders", "Collar of Badges" or "Livery Collar". A heavy chain of flat links worn about the shoulders.

NOTE: See also the files: coronets-msg, SCA-Bling-art, casting-msg, pewter-msg, heraldry-msg, alphabets-msg, metals-msg, jewelry-msg, wearng-cornts-msg.

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    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous
                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: "Debbie H" <reynapaubi at yahoo.com>
Date: September 17, 2010 3:24:54 PM CDT
To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

OK, I know there has to be an official description of this particular type of jewelry, but I can't find it anywhere. It was worn by males, the pictures I'm finding are 16th century. It was not worn hanging on the neck, but over the shoulders. It was often (but not always) composed of flat "links" of metal. It was definitely something the elite (nobility, clergy, knights, etc) wore.  

There are three pictures here which show the type of item I'm trying to describe: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/trimaris-temp/photos/album/1799119862/pic/list 
(all three are scanned from _Historic Costume in Pictures_ by Braun & Schneider).  

Can anyone help me with the correct word?

Caitilin ni Killane 

From: Dianne Russell <cat_herder at comcast.net>
Date: September 17, 2010 3:56:24 PM CDT
To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

Collars of Estate?  I'm sure that different people/places called them different things. 
http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_collars.htm  

My only knowledge of them are second/third hand from about 15 years ago. 
One guy in our shire wanted to have one and he was told that you have to have a certain number/kind of awards to wear one. I don't know for sure.

I know the Kingdom Officers have ones that I believe are silver with triskeles on them.  

Tamara 

From: Elizabeth Bair <countessdulcia at gmail.com>
Date: September 17, 2010 4:05:09 PM CDT
To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 4:37 PM, gwenore <gwenore at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
<<< Think this was worn during the English Tudor /
Elizabethan period.
Know Henry VIII and other aristocrats wore it to note
their "station".
That is the best I can do.
Am sure any Laurel (i.e., Countess Dulcia, and others)
who's time period is Tudor / Elizabethan can help you.
Gwenore >>>

<<< In the SCA, they can be made up of the badges of awards you hold, your
heraldry (elements of your arms and/or your badge(s)), or badges of
historical significance to your persona (using the example above, if your
persona is involved in the War of the Roses and is a Lancastrian you might
wear a collar of esses.

In Trimaris the wearing of such a chain is restricted to those holding a
Grant of Arms or higher.

Does that help?

Dulcia >>>

It's called a "Collar of Estate", or sometimes "Chain of Estate", "Collar of
Orders",  "Collar of Badges" or "Livery Collar".  If you're trying to do
research, it may be useful to search ALL the terms and know a bit more about
what each term means.

Technically, in period, each of these names meant something slightly
different but they all refer to a heavy chain of flat links worn about the
shoulders.  A "Livery Collar" is made up of the badge or badges of your
liege lord and shows your fealty or affiliation with that person or house
(for example, the famous collars of esses associated with the House of
Lancaster during the War of the Roses or the alternating roses and suns work
by affiliates of the House of York.).  A "Collar of Badges" could be the
same as a Livery Collar, or it could be a chain made up of your own badges.
A "Collar of Orders" is made up of the badges and/or symbols associated with
a particular Order (in period, it would be an Order of Knighthood (for
example - the Order of the Garter founded by Edward III, King of England, in
the mid-14th century; the collar usually has alternating knots and garters
[surrounding roses], and the pendant is St. George slaying the dragon).  A
"Collar of Estate" or "Chain of Estate" was a collar the used the symbols of
a particular office, such as the Mayor of London or the Royal Exchequer.

From: "Scott" <Scat at cfl.rr.com>
Date: September 17, 2010 10:13:56 PM CDT
To: <trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: Collar of (E)state; was [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

In Meridies and Gleann Abhann, it is also called a collar of estate and   is restricted to a grant of arms. I have one from Gleann Abhann made up   of G's and A's. I jokingly refer to it as a collar of State: look it says   Jawjah.

In the SCA I 'think" that the collar of Esses seems to represent  Heralds rather than Lancasterians.

  Colm 

From: Seamus mac Dhughaill <seamusmacdhughaill at yahoo.com>
Date: September 18, 2010 7:55:30 AM CDT
To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

Your Grace  ,
It is in Section B. Other Regalia of the Sumptuary laws, # 5. 
"Persons holding  Grants of Arms may wear a collar of badges.  "

Seamus mac Dhughaill

From: Elizabeth Bair <countessdulcia at gmail.com>
Date: September 19, 2010 7:51:08 AM CDT
To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

Only the Greater Kingdom Officers receive Chains of Estate in Trimaris (kingdom seneschal, kingdom exchequer, kingdom herald, kingdom chronicler, kingdom hospitaler, kingdom minister of art & sciences, and the earl marshal). 

The chains are silver links of triskeles with a large medalion of  office hanging from the front. If you serve as a greater kingdom officer  you have the right to wear the chain of estate during your tenure in office  regardless of your actual sca rank. 

The lessor kingdom offices do not have  chains of estate at this time.

  Dulcia  

On Sep 18, 2010 7:27 PM, "Sara Glaze" <sorcha at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
<<<   Oh its GOA or higher....I know because I held a Kingdom office but without  having a GOA I could not wear the collar of maintenance associated with it.  

I believe its under the section about the aoa, goa circlets, but can't swear  to it.

Sorcha   >>>

From: "Sara Glaze" <sorcha at cfl.rr.com>
Date: September 19, 2010 4:13:12 PM CDT
To: <trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Need "Official" Name of an Article of Ornamentation

The Kingdom chirurgeons office also has one....when I mentioned to the seneschal that I did not have the GOA required to wear it I was told I could swear feality with it on and then should take it off. Which is what I did.

   Sorcha

Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2015 13:52:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Elspeth Payne via Atlantia <atlantia at seahorse.atlantia.sca.org>
To: via Atlantia <atlantia at seahorse.atlantia.sca.org>
Subject: [MR] A brief brush with history

Lord Mungo's mention yesterday of the Lord Lyon of Arms reminded me of my brief brush with history in the late 90's.

I lived in Denver and danced for the Denver Pipes and Drums. The drum major is worthy of stories in his own right - he was a craftsman and an artist in several media. You know how Dewar's has a Scottish Pipe Major on their label? He's that Pipe Major. He led their pipe band for something like 15 years, and the current illustration is of him. But back to our regularly scheduled...

At that time, the Lord Lyon's chain of office had been missing for more than three hundred years. There are portraits including it, so we have a fair idea of what it used to look like, and you can track when the Lord Lyon started wearing borrowed chains for ceremonial occasions.

So there was a movement...St. Andrew's Societies all over the world contributed certain sums to buy the gold, and our Pipe Major crafted a new chain, as close to the original as possible. The square links (about 2.5-3" square if I recall) alternated, two different patterns, and on the back of each was the name of the St. Andrew's chapter that had donated the money for that link. On the end was a set of enameled medallions, ending in an oval one (4" long?) that I remember as having a monk on it. The Pipe Major made those, too. The total was a loop a bit more than six feet long (that's not laid out straight, that's looped) of solid gold with enamel medallions on one end. He brought a couple of the links and the finished final medallion to practice one night - that's all of it I ever saw in person.

Our Pipe Major put the finished product in a locking briefcase and sat through an overnight flight to London with it on his lap (he said no handcuffing it on though). Customs wanted to see what was in the case, and he immediately demanded a private room (this was before a lot of people even knew there were private rooms). He said he turned the case toward the Customs guard and opened it, and watched the man's eyes bug out and jaw drop. Of course, he landed very early in the morning, and went directly do-not-stop-do-not-collect-$200 to the Scottish Embassy in London. The nice young man holding down the front desk tried to tell him the ambassador would be in later, he could meet with him then, so he gave the young man the same presentation that he did on the Customs guard. He had the ambassador very quickly, who took the case from him right away and gave him a receipt.
The case was sent via diplomatic courier to Edinburgh. My friend took a more leisurely route. He was allowed to attend the "investment" of the chain - I remember looking at the pictures and being amazed at how many velvet and ermine-trimmed cloaks could be in one ceremony, and how far the chain hangs down the back - I had no idea those things were as long in the back as in the front.

And just think, when the Lord Lyon's portrait is painted three hundred years from now, he could be wearing that very chain. Isn't that cool?
Thanks for letting me ramble on sharing this. If there are any errors in the story, they are entirely due to my own faulty memory after so many years (and not being a principal in this story).

Sorcha Crowe

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