washing-msg - 1/26/08 Washing different fabrics. How to wash and what not to wash. NOTE: See also the files: textiles-msg, piled-fabrics-msg, velvet-msg, silk-msg, linen-msg, lace-msg, ruffs-msg, color-a-fab-bib, beadwork-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Washing cotton velvetteen and velvets ??? Date: 16 Feb 1994 01:50:12 -0500 Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC Greetings, all, esp. milord Horace: In article <9402160540.AA17530 at milo.nodak.edu>, Robert Arthur Ayotte wrote: > I have some cotton velvets and velveteen that I want to make into >garb, but know it's better to wash the fabric first. Here's the quesion: > >Can cotton velvets and velveteens be machine washed and dried? A resounding YES! That's the beauty of Cotton Velveteen! (I love the stuff...) My suggestion to you is that you wash your fabric first (you know that, but there's more) in the hottest water your machine can muster. Use detergent, and rinse well. Then dry in the dryer, and remove when still slightly damp (not much -- just to keep it from wrinkling). The hot water and machine drying will pre-shrink it for you. After this, anything you make out of it will be washable- and dryable-garb (depending on the trim you put on it, of course...but that's another post!) It also depends on the color-fast quality of the fabric. A way to test this is to take a square of white cotton and wash it with your fabric. When you remove it from the dryer, see if it's changed color. >Can they be machine washed and air dried? Yes, -- but you get more wrinkles. The dryer actually takes out some of the wrinkles the washer puts in. >Can they be hand washed and machine dried? Why bother, unless it's a banner with red bits (that can run, no matter what fabric it is...), then hand wash always. >Can they be hand washed and drip dried? > >If they can only be dry cleaned, where are the period ticket stubs to prove >it? :-) I wouldn't bother dry cleaning it if you can wash it... Dry cleaning doesn't remove the natural oils and sweat from the garment. Only soap and water will do that. > We are talking about both the material and then the finshed item. >I would hate to destroy the lovely green velvet (54 inch wide closeout for >$7.50 a yard and it's silver when turned and green viewed strait on) or >reck the red velveteen. OHHHH! You didn't mention that the red and the green go *together*! You need to wash the dickens out of the individual colors of fabric, then wash a square of each together in hot water (with a square of white as a control) to see what happens. Dyes being what they are, there is no way to tell without testing them first. Good luck! Tell us how it comes out! Slainte'-- Elizabeth/Jean Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness. lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing. Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness. nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please! From: Gretchen Miller Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Washing cotton velvetteen and velvets ??? Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 13:17:06 -0500 Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Horace, Try it on a small sample, but there should be no reason why you can't wash velvet: 1. I'd advise hand washing, or machine washing on gentle. Warm or cold water (essentially like you'd wash any delicate cotton fabric) 2. Air dry flat (like you'd dry a sweater), or hang it on the line. DON"T wring it out! Chances are, if you do, it'll retain the creases. 3. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART ->>>> Get a nail board for ironing. This is similar to a large wire brush, and is of primary importance for ironing velvet. When you iron your velvet, put the fuzzy side down on the nails, and iron the back. The nail board prevents the nap from crushing. Hope this helps! toodles, margaret From: lise at perth.DIALix.oz.au (Lise Summers) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: velvet and velveteens Date: 16 Feb 1994 22:45:19 +0800 Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Western Australia Summary: dryclean after making and wearing Keywords: washing, textiles In response to the request from harold about washing velvet and velveteens I personally think you can go to far in prewashing material. the idea is to a get some of the size or stuff out which makes the material more flexible, and b) try and ensure that it won't shrink to much when you wash it. with velvet and velveteens, whether silk, cotton or synthetic washinga the material will probably lead to problems with the nap,the thing whichgives it its wonderful two colours. With silk velvets in particular it is important that the material is handled as little as possible.Every fold and crease will show, every spot of water threatens to stain slightly. I had to amke a simple long skirt for my sister's wedding in silk velvet. I had it stored around tube and then laid it out and cut it into panels in one go. My other sister laid the panels very gently over the backs of chairs and we sewed. At the end we steamed the finished garment by hanging it in the bathroom while the shower was running.I keep it clean by brushing with a soft clothes brush. It will eventually need drycleaning. There are no period laundry tags because they wouldn't wash velvet either, simply relying on brushing and airing. Cotton velveteen may wash, although i haven't tried it. Again I have it drycleaned _But_ if you want something that looks fairly sumptuous and does wash, try corduroy. I make my daoughters dresses in pinwhale (very fine stripes) corduroy, and Sir Snorri has a cloak of uncut corduroy ( no stripes) and I fling the dresses in the washing machine with gay abandon. Warm wash, cold rinse, air dry. simple. Mistress Angharad of Chester. From: lassman at Bldg_Dafoe.Lan1.UManitoba.CA Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Shrinking with cotton velvet/velveteen Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 19:59:37 GMT Organization: University of Manitoba Lord Horace of Northshield wrote about shrinking cotton velvet or velveteen. Having taken some textile courses and from years of experience, I belong to the "throw the velvet in the washing machine and the dryer" school of cotton velvet care. For pre-shrinking I tend to use hot water and thereafter wash in warm. I've had a couple of pieces of garb that I pre-shrunk that way and then cared for ever after and they've lasted beautifully. By standing by the dryer and whisking the garb out the second the cycle finished, my garb was dry and wrinkle free so I never had to worry about ironing. (By the way, after testing a swatch for colourfastness and water spotting, I usually treat silk the same way, using the cold water/delicate cycle of the washer and the lowest temperature possible on the dryer. It's worked well on several weights of silk, from almost sheer to pant-weight, and if I have to iron at all, it's just touch-up work.) The comment made in a previous post (sorry--I don't remember who said it) about being very careful about the red velvet is very true--be very sure that all the loose dye has been washed out before you combine it in the same garment with the green, or you won't be very happy. The test swatch is also a good idea. A couple of tips for sewing the velvet. 1. If you can afford a needle board, get one. They look sort of like 5" x 12" (or thereabout) metal dog brushes, but are generally fairly expensive. You use them when pressing the velvet, to avoid crushing the pile. If you can't find/afford a needle board, you can cover your ironing board with a piece of the velvet pile side up. 2. To avoid lines showing on the front of the fabric resulting from pressing the seam allowances flat, cut strips from a file folder or a brown paper grocery bag to put between the seam allowance and the body of the garment. (Make sure the strips are wider than the widest part of your iron.) The second tip above is also recommended for wool. Speaking of wool, when you're pressing wool, you should: 1. cover your ironing board with a large scrap of leftover wool (to keep a nice finish on the completed garment); 2. never press directly on the wool (it makes it brittle)--use a damp piece of 100% cotton (something without a woven or embossed pattern) as a pressing cloth or steam heavily with a second scrap of leftover wool on top of your fabric. With regard to pre-shrinking wool, the best method for most wools is the "London Shrink" method, which can be found in just about any tailoring book. It sounds weird, but it really does work, and is better than taking it to a dry cleaner. Have fun, and good luck! Gabriela dei Clementini From: lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen) Date: 22 Feb 1994 21:17:16 -0500 Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC Greetings, all! In article , wrote: >Lord Horace of Northshield wrote about shrinking cotton velvet or velveteen. > >Having taken some textile courses and from years of experience, I belong to >the "throw the velvet in the washing machine and the dryer" school of cotton >velvet care. For pre-shrinking I tend to use hot water and thereafter wash >in warm. I've had a couple of pieces of garb that I pre-shrunk that way and >then cared for ever after and they've lasted beautifully. By standing by >the dryer and whisking the garb out the second the cycle finished, my garb >was dry and wrinkle free so I never had to worry about ironing. (By the >way, after testing a swatch for colourfastness and water spotting, I usually >treat silk the same way, using the cold water/delicate cycle of the washer >and the lowest temperature possible on the dryer. It's worked well on >several weights of silk, from almost sheer to pant-weight, and if I have >to iron at all, it's just touch-up work.) I thought about editing the previous, but I couldn't find anything that could be snipped carefully...so.... About washing silk -- DON'T USE DETERGENT!!!!!!! You *can* wash silk in the washing machine, and even dry it in the dryer (but I prefer to take it out of the dryer while still damp to iron it), but use a gentle soap such as Ivory Liquid (which has the same chemical content as Woolite, and about half the price...information from my chemist aunt). I had a lovely "washable" shantung-weave silk shirt. It was my favorite, I wore it all the time. After a while, I noticed what looked like moth holes, esp. around the seams. My mother's (then-since Laureled) apprentice, Elizabeth Talbot (who has her degree from the Fashion Institute of Technology), explained to me that the term "washable silk" is misleading. Silk fibers (and wool for that matter) are broken down by the alkali in regular detergent. (This was a while ago; I hope I remembered it correctly...) Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage the silk. It's best to wash the silk in warmish water; cold water won't allow the body oils to break down and wash away. You should wash silk soon after wearing, because the alkali in sweat will break down the silk the same way detergent will. That can explain why old sweat stains won't come out of silk... Another note: Dry cleaning won't remove sweat and body oils from fabric. Only soap and water will. Dry cleaning removes dirt, but not odors. >The comment made in a previous post (sorry--I don't remember who said it) >about being very careful about the red velvet is very true--be very sure >that all the loose dye has been washed out before you combine it in the same >garment with the green, or you won't be very happy. The test swatch is also >a good idea. Oh, that was me...I think... About prewashing: if you want to check for shrinkage, cut a square (12" works for me) of your fabric, whip the edges and wash it on hot. Measure it, checking for shrinkage. Then dry it; measure again. That will show the total shrinkage. Happy sewing! Silk and cotton velveteen...two of my favorite things... Slainte'-- Elizabeth/Jean Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness. lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing. Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness. nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please! Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: tabron at binah.cc.brandeis.edu Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen) Organization: Brandeis University Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 21:41:27 GMT In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, lyoness at panix.com (Jean Krevor) writes: > >Greetings, all! >[snip] >It's best to wash the silk in warmish water; cold water won't allow the >body oils to break down and wash away. > >You should wash silk soon after wearing, because the alkali in sweat will >break down the silk the same way detergent will. That can explain why >old sweat stains won't come out of silk... > >Another note: Dry cleaning won't remove sweat and body oils from fabric. >Only soap and water will. Dry cleaning removes dirt, but not odors. >[snip] >Elizabeth/Jean > >Jean Elizabeth Krevor | Nothing is better than eternal happiness. >lyoness at panix.com | And, a ham sandwich is better than nothing. >Associate member, SFLAaE/BS | Therefore, a ham sandwich must be better >Lady Elizabeth Camerona | than eternal happiness. >nicIan of Clan Mitchell | I'll have a ham sandwich, please! A minor addition to Elizabeth's excellent post: Dry cleaning won't break down sweat, because sweat is a water-based substance, while dry-cleaning fluid is a petroleum-based substance (oil and water don't mix, in fact they don't want anything to do with each other. :-) Likewise, washing does not really _dissolve_ oils (though if the water is hot enough it may break them up and carry them away -- or it may just set them into the fabric fibers.) That's why you have to decide what stains you want out the most, then roll the dice and make your choice. :-) Raedwynne aet thaem Grenan Wuda ----------- Judith Tabron Dept. of English / Computing Center Brandeis University tabron at binah.cc.brandeis.edu tabron at brandeis.bitnet From: lecuyer at wam.umd.edu (CLIS library) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen) Date: 26 Feb 1994 18:31:34 GMT Organization: University of Maryland, College Park In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, Jean Krevor wrote: > > >Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage >the silk. This is interesting. Woolite must have changed its make-up in the last decade. I was told by a professional costumer that Woolite was acidic and could seriously damage stuff. Better to use Ivory, she said. Hey but I'm not a chemist, I'm just a: rabble rouser at large. "Bad BoD, no oatcake." ;-) Cathy/Kara From: Beth.Appleton at f4229.n124.z1.fidonet.org (Beth Appleton) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Washing cotton velvet/een Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:07:50 Lady Elizabeth Camerona writes in response: >Can they be hand washed and machine dried? > Why bother, unless it's a banner with red bits (that > can run, no matter what fabric it is...), then hand > wash always. Actually, I've found that what makes fabrics bleed is sitting while wet. The way I hand-wash, it means I get *more* bleed-over when I hand-wash than when I machine-wash. The almost constant agitation keeps the dye from settling in, so long as the item is *promptly* removed from the washer and dried. When I hand-wash, I usually let items soak, which gives the errant dye a chance to soak in where it isn't wanted. Gwenllian CfM * Origin: Herald's Point * Steppes/Ansteorra * 214-699-0057 (1:124/4229) From: Beth.Appleton at f4229.n124.z1.fidonet.org (Beth Appleton) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Velvets & velveteen Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:08:44 Mistress Angharad of Chester writes: > With velvet and velveteens, whether silk, cotton or > synthetic, washing the material will probably lead to > problems with the nap,the thing which gives it its > wonderful two colours. With silk velvets in particular ... Cotton velvets are immune to that problem. Both cotton velvets and velveteens tend to be dense enough that machine washing doesn't mar the nap. If there's a question, wash a test square first. While the questor's fabric is already bought, there is (was?) a wonderful cotton velvet called Duchess Velvet which was specifically machine-washable. My coat-of-plates is made out of the stuff... (or was it matinee velvet?? Dain bramage...) Rayon velvet, OTOH, is absolutely not machine washable. The pile isn't dense enough, and it looks matted. I have a coat which is, essentially, uncleanable. It's of rayon velvet, which looks really nasty when washed, and it's decorated with individual fake pearls, which dissolve when dry-cleaned... Ah, the errors of youth... And, I have proved both these statements by attempting to clean this coat by both methods. > There are no period laundry tags because they wouldn't > wash velvet either, simply relying on brushing and airing. Actually, I've read that they used to clean silks and such with alcohol, wine lees to be specific. > Cotton velveteen may wash, although I haven't tried it. > Again, I have it drycleaned. _But_ if you want something > that looks fairly sumptuous and does wash, try corduroy. Cotton velveteen is simply a better made, denser piled uncut corduroy. I say better made because most of the uncut corduroys I've seen will have little fuzz spots where the piles weren't quite trimmed completely. Velveteen doesn't tend to have these spots. Gwenllian Cwmystwyth * Origin: Herald's Point * Steppes/Ansteorra * 214-699-0057 (1:124/4229) From: Gretchen Miller Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Machine washing fabric (was about cotton velveteen) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 15:29:28 -0500 Organization: Computer Operations, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA > In article <2keebc$bcn at panix.com>, Jean Krevor wrote: > > > > > >Ivory Liquid and Woolite are almost neutral in pH, and they won't damage > >the silk. At some distant postrevel, I was told that baby shampoo was the best thing you could use for washing silk, because the composition of silk was similar to that of human hair. While I won't comment on the validity of the explanation, I've used baby shampoo successfully on silk ever since. toodles, margaret From: Sandy_Erickson at thequest.com (Sandy Erickson) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: washing fabrics Date: 8 Mar 94 16:14:47 CDT Organization: The Quest I took a class on preserving needlework, the teacher a museum textile person, told us about the soap that they use in their museum, (in Indiana, but without checking notes I can't remember which one. Anyway she said that they use a soap called Orvis. It was origionally used for horses, believe it or not. You can find it in shops that deal in horse supplies, You might have to say that it is to wash your dog. Don't know the ph but she said that it didn't have any acid, I got some and it really is mild and does a good job for needlework, One lady I know uses one Tbs. per washing machine load and has for years. Her clothes look great. You also can get small quantities in quilt stores. Any one else used this or know more than me? Sandy From: robinec Date: January 24, 2005 8:00:43 PM CST To: "bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org" Subject: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - was Of Linen and Gulf Wars I have never had a problem washing or bleaching 100% linen. Over the years I have washed with Tide, Purex and Arm&Hammer depending on my current taste in laundry soap, and when my husbands shirts or armor are particularly smelly, I have even thrown in Borax for good measure. Borax is a water softening agent that helps the water and soap get between the fibers of the fabric to help them do their job better. Vinegar can also help with smelly linen and can be mixed with the Borax safely. Stains and smells generally come out of linen easier than cotton. If you are concerned about using bleach on it (which I have done with good results) you can also wash it with natural bleaching agents like peroxide or lemon juice and lay it in the sun to bleach (like our grandmothers did with their fine linens) - this works wonderfully. I do this sometimes when a wash with a weak bleach solution does not get out a stain, I apply spots of lemon juice to the stains and lay it in the sun for several hours and then throw it back in the wash for a good rinsing. I find bleach destroys cotton sooner than linen, however I don't recommend bleaching any fabric every time you wash, especially if it is not stained - adding Borax to the wash or applying extra soap to your problem spots (like armpits) works just as well. I use bleach as my backup plan, not my primary attack and even then I use a weak solution like 1/2 a cup to a full load of laundry, or by applying it directly to the stain (with a q-tip or the bleach gel pen). If you must bleach, use bleach that is non-chlorine and non-phosphorus (phosphates makes whiter than white blotches in sunlight). Besides, chlorine bleach is very bad to have in your home environment anyway and can cause lots of respiratory problems. NEVER MIX CHLORINE BLEACH AND VINEGAR - THIS CAN CREATE TOXIC CHLORIMINE GAS See this website on dangerous household chemicals - http://www.ems.org/household_cleaners/four.html I am probably sensitive to this since my husband is allergic to some bleaches (particularly the ones marketed as 'color safe'). Now we have all sorts of other anti-bacterial cleaners available on the market so there are plenty of non-hazardous options. As to the comfort of linen - if it is stiff when newly cleaned and dried - throw some hair conditioner in the rinse cycle and it will come out just fine! Softens it up a lot! The linen is both warmer and cooler than cotton to wear because it wicks moisture so well. My linen garments have worn as well over time and lasted as long as my cotton garments. The only downsides I have found with linen are that rust stains (from armor) left on the linen will eventually eat a hole in the weave, if it is dyed linen, you may want to wash it with like colors for a while because it can bleed (use vinegar to lessen this) and finally, I prefer not to put it in the dryer and I always wash on cold so I don't have to worry about shrinkage (but that is true of cotton too). For a regular wear (non-armor) chemise, I would use the lighter-weight linen so it is not so bulky and heavy as the Judy weight. -Robin (who loves linen for chemises and shirts) on 1/23/05 8:18 AM, Amanda Shields at ashields at apple.com wrote: > But when it comes to underpinnings, ummm, while linen is comfy and > period, and all that, I hate washing it all the time, especially in > laundry detergents made for cottons. Don't even think about bleaching > it. Yes, I suppose I could hand wash it in my copious spare time, but > then I remember I lack copious spare time. While linen is great for > outerwear, I'll be French before I wear a chemise that is merely > Febreezed instead of scrupulously clean. So, unless it's an A&S > project, my smalls shall be made of nice, washable, bleachable cotton! > > Anna From: robinec Date: January 24, 2005 10:49:35 PM CST To: "bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org" Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - was Of Linen and Gulf Wars As someone so kindly pointed out to me, you also do not want to mix bleach (a basic Ph) with ammonia or any other item that has an acid Ph. This is very very true. I wanted to specify Vinegar though because I was pointing out its odor removing virtue and thought someone might try to mix the two in their laundry all unknowing. Please don't mis-understand my motives, I do use these products, I just think we should be aware of how and when we use them! -Robin From: Louise Craig Date: January 25, 2005 8:18:57 AM CST To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Linen care - bleach & vinegar On the subject of Vinegar and Bleach, although you certainly don't want to mix them together. You can use a diluted vinegar and water solution as a rinse to neutralize bleach after you have washed something with bleach. I usually run a second rinse by itself with about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of vinegar depending on the size of the amount of water. When you use chlorine bleach on fabric, the bleach will continue to work on the fabric, used often enough and strong enough it will weaken the fabric. So after using bleach, add a little vinegar to your second rinse cycle (or rinse by hand) and this will neutralize the bleach and keep it from weakening the fibers (linen or cotton). For more information http://frugalliving.about.com/cs/tips/qt/vinproperties.htm Louise Craig From: elizabeth at crouchet.com Date: January 25, 2005 11:31:34 AM CST To: bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org Subject: RE: [Bryn-gwlad] Costuming help :) Linen I find that even the stiff as a board linen, (unless is has been starched that way) will soften up nicely and be quite comfortable after exposure to about 5 or 10 minutes of body heat. I just go ahead and put it on. My shirts are so stiff they can stand on their own if I line dry them, until I separate the sides so that I can put it on and that seems to begin the softening process. LInen also takes starch nicely. I often use a cold water starch solution brushed onto a collar or cuff then ironed to give me that period starched ruffle. This leaves the rest of the garment all comfy. I would be surprised if it was not also done this way in period. I wash all of my linen and only sometimes dry my shirts for convenience. It all lasts a whole lot longer and holds its color better if only line dried. But machine washing is always fine. I can't wring out a as much water as the spin cycle can and the spin cycle does not put undue stress on the fibers. Claire On 25 Jan 2005 at 0:00, Nan Bradford-Reid wrote: > http://www.dharmatrading.com/ > > Great source for dyes (not natural dyes). You can top-dye that linen > into a color that's period/desirable. You can also remove color > that's too dark and either leave as is or dye it another color. Linen > is sturdy and takes dye extremely well. You need to wash it several > times before you dye it, though, since it comes with a buttload of > finishing starches on it. > > After it is made up into your garment, it is now completely > washable...but only put it in the dryer for a few minutes with a dryer > sheet and then hang while still basically wet. smooth the wrinkles > out by hand. This gets a period finish that's not all bouncy like it > would be if you dried it all the way. > > Kate Edited by Mark S. Harris washing-msg Page 12 of 12