spinning-msg – 6/9/10 Spinning wheels, spindles. techniques. History of spinning wheels. NOTE: See also the files: linen-msg, silk-msg, wool-hist-msg, cotton-art, weaving-msg, dyeing-msg, knitting-msg, wool-clean-msg, looms-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: ilaine at panix.com (Liz Stokes) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: biblio, sails, shoes, & lead Date: 22 Jul 1993 06:45:11 -0400 Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC priest at vaxsar.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) writes: >p. 132) But for hands-on graphic evidence I have Ilaine de Cameron to thank. >She showed me untreated wool from a double-coated modern sheep (a throwback >breed) and a pair of vicious looking woolcombs. We know the Vikings had and >used both: woolcombs and double-coated sheep. Then she demonstrated what >happens when you comb the wool the way the sources agree that the Vikings did: >the long kemp comes away all nice and straight, leaving behind the the softer, >shorter, shinier stuff that all clings together. (Ilaine, if you're out there, >jump in any time!) Sure! For what it's worth I have several sets of wool combs, and I've found the Viking combs far more effective for separating a double coat than the Medieval English style. The English combs hold more wool, and I think make a nicer roving but they seem better suited to a medium to longwool fleece of uniform type. -Ilaine -- Liz Stokes | Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop ... Okay, now take the fabric Ilaine de Cameron | off the loom (or away from the kittens). It needs to be | finished. Just find some fullers' earth, a convenient ilaine at panix.com | stream, and some husky peasants to pound it with rocks. From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: carding in period Date: 12 Oct 93 09:32:38 Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK. > Carding being OOP Depends on the precise period you are out of, but a wooden object found in a hiberno-norse settlement in Dublin Ireland has been identified as a wool carder, or at any rate the back of one. I have no idea what the grounds for the identification were, but it definately wasn't a comb, as it had no holes for the teeth. Jennifer Vanaheim vikings (nfps not SCA, but I was passing the Rialto & stopped for a chat) p.s. hiberno-norse = irish vikings From: jgm at helios.tn.cornell.EDU (James McLean) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: wool carding in period? Date: 18 Oct 1993 21:07:36 -0400 There have been a few notes discussing whether carding of wool happened in period, or if wool was only processed with combing. I have absolutely no knowledge in the area, but I happened to come across the following. It's from _Renaissance_ by John Hale via TIME-LIFE Books, on page 79 and refering to the wool trade in Florence during the rennaissance... > COMBING the wool separated the long strands from the short tufts of fuzz. > Then the long strands, wound on wooden blocks, went directly to the > spinners. The tufts were used too, but first had to be prepared by carders. > > CARDING was a scraping process applied to lower-grade wool. Spreading the > wool on wicker frames, workers untangled it with wire scrapers - tools so > efficient Florence forbade anyone to take them out of the city. Hope this is helpful/interesting. Does it make sense to any of the wool-wise folk out there? --Matteo Sassetti From: Sheri.Stanley at p911.f1066.n374.z1.fidonet.org (Sheri Stanley) Date: 08 Jan 94 11:17:03 -0500 Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: silk, was Re: Expensive Authenticity Organization: Fidonet:The Blue Barrel Brewery (1:374/1066.911) kc> There are two kinds of silk that are some-times called "raw silk"-+- kc> one is silk noil, which is made by washing and spinning the short kc> fibers from broken caccoons, and the other is tussah silk, which is kc> made from the coccoons of other types of mothes which eat other things kc> than mulberries. You are, of course, correct - did I not differentiate in my post? Sigh. The baby is sucking my brains out again. kc> as mulbery-worm silk, and it's base color is never pure white. I kc> don't know where else it is worked, i have seldom seen it on the kc> market, and when i do it is out-rageously expensive. Shrug. Maybe it's your area...I've occasionally found Tussah for $4-$6 per yard (though $10-12 is more common). Check out Thai Silks (their address is in the back of Sew News magazine),they have reasonable prices on silks (and great quarterly sales!) kc> I love silk noil--it has all the warm-but-cool properties you expect kc> in natural fabrics, it has a wonderfull drape and hand, and all though Ever tried to spin it? Eek! What a pain in the butt. I've given up trying to get good, consistent yarn from the noil rovings I can buy here, and started using it carded w/other fibers (works *fantastic* carded w/merino!). I love it, too...it gets *so* soft when you wash it, and it keeps you toasty warm in winter! Grania From: Tom Perigrin (4/14/94) To: markh at sphinx oak spears? Sorry for the delay on replying... A "walking wheel" is a type of spinning wheel that one uses while standing up. In fact, one walks back and forth and back and forth... The wheel is anywhere from 3' to 5' in diameter, but it is also wide, but thin! I make them out of 3" wide 1/8 thick oak. (They don't have to bear much force). Yours, Ld. Thomas Ignatius Pergrinus From: rosalind at kenton.iii.net (Donna Kenton) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Lace Making Date: 22 Nov 1994 13:04:34 GMT Organization: iii.net subscriber In article <0Di5Vc4w165w at bregeuf.stonemarche.org>, una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk) says: >> Also, I'm tempted to dabble in spinning; how hard is it to find a spinning >> wheel? Are spinning wheels terribly expensive? >> Halcyon Yarn in Bath, Maine, at 800-341-0282 has wheels, books, and fibers as well as qualified help. Everyone there knows different fiber arts, and they'll transfer you to someone who can help you. Also, I've started spinning this summer, and it you'd like to talk about this through E-mail, that would great. Rosalinde De Witte From: corliss at hal.physics.wayne.EDU (David J. Corliss) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Lace making - Ann Arbor Date: 21 Nov 1994 10:37:11 -0500 Organization: The Internet Greetings from Beorthwine- While I do not know of anyone making lace in Cynnabar (Ann Arbor), there is some very good work being done near by. By any chance, have you spoken with Lady Persephone, the (new) Arts and Sciences officer there, or to Lady Arianna, who has just become the Regional A&S officer? Your local officers should always be an excellent point of contact for such questions. Certainly those in Cynnabar are very good. You will want to contact Lady Jeanne Anne le Bonnetiere, (Nancy Evans on Edsel in Clinton Township, about an hour and fifteen minute drive from Ann Arbor). Her work is excellent and she is a fine teacher. She is well aquainted with others doing this kind of work in the area. You mention that you are also interested in spinning. While I do not spin, I have generally heard it recomended that a gentle begin spinning with a drop spindle. Certainly, apart from other considerations, it seems wise to put off buying a spinning wheel until one has determined a considerable interest in the subject. Drop spindles with round whorls are readily available at many SCA events and in stores catering to spinners and weavers: you will certainly want to visit Traditional Handcrafts in Northville, about 40 minutes away. From my own experience, having been told by several people that Turkish/Palestinian/Double arm spindles (all the same thing) are far superior to those with round whorls when spinning medium to heavy yarns (whorls still being preferred for supported spinning): they wobble far less, and hence waste very little energy. Nearly all the available energy goes into the spinning, and they spin much longer with less difficulties, for the same effort. Unfortunately, they are hard to come by. I make them (they are truly are trivial to make) and, as I will be at the Cynnabar Wassail next month, I can show you one. Also in attendance will be Lady Estrella of Trinity, the fairest and most graceful of ladies, who is also an accomplished spinner and teacher. She swears by the Turkish spindle and has several of them. Ask her to show you her work: she has a talent for getting people to start to spin (basic heavy wool yarn) on the spot. See you there! Beorthwine of Grafham Wood, one-time Cynnabar MOS From: corliss at hal.physics.wayne.EDU (David J. Corliss) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Turkish/Palestinian/Double Arm Spindles Date: 21 Nov 1994 11:07:13 -0500 Greetings to all from Beorthwine of Grafham Wood- These spindles are very simple to make and work better than drop spidles with round whorls for medium to heavy yarns. I have not seen one that works well for light threads and a supported spindle with a small light whorl is better for such material. (David Corliss, the physicist, butts in here: I don't know anything about spinning but understand tops well. Turkish spindles are superior because the nutations ("wobbles") are heavily damped (go away quickly): if you set one spinning and deliberately make it wobble, this disturbance quickly vanishes. Thus, a much higher portion of the applied effort goes into spinning the fibers and less is dissipated, giving a spindle that spins far longer and straighter for the same effort.) Make a solid piece of wood eight inches long, 3/4 to one inch wide, and 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. Make another. Smooth _very_ carefully and thoroughly. Drill a quarter inch diameter hole through the center of both pieces. Cut a ten inch lenth of quarter inch diameter dowel rod and put a dull point at one end. That's it! ___________________________________________________________ l l l X <-- 1/4 inch hole l l l ----------------------------------------------------------- l l l l l l l l l l ------------------ l v Hold the whole thing together by wrapping a length of yarn around it. Wrap the yarn you spin about it in the same fashion. When you are done, just pull out the rod and the other pieces will come out as well, leaving a neat ball ready for weaving. Beorthwine of Grafham Wood From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spinning/Lace Making Date: 26 Nov 1994 16:42:45 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley : Also, I'm tempted to dabble in spinning; how hard is it to find a spinning : wheel? Are spinning wheels terribly expensive? : Pattie Rayl Yes, they do tend to be expensive. (Mine cost close to $300 a decade and a half ago.) But fortunately, you don't need a wheel to start learning to spin. Spinning with a drop spindle is very cheap on the equipment side, authentic for any part of the SCA period, and in my opinion an easier way to learn spinning. The essence of a drop spindle is a stick (about a foot long) with a notch at the top and a weight at the bottom. Commonly the weight will be a wooden disk or a large ceramic "bead". The stick should protrude slightly below the weight and the weight _must_ be fastened firmly to the stick. (There are a number of other authentic historical designs for drop spindles -- sometimes specialized for particular fibers -- but this is the one I'm most familiar with.) Fasten your starter yarn onto the spindle just above the weight, loop it down around the bottom of the spindle then up to a half-hitch around the notch. Note the spin direction of your starter yarn. Hold the loose end of the yarn in one hand and the top of the spindle in the other. Twist the spindle between your fingers in the appropriate direction to spin the yarn tighter, and let go so it hangs spinning from the yarn. Begin adding fresh fiber to the free end of the yarn (this is the tricky part and the one best demonstrated in person). Respin the spindle when it stops. When the yarn gets too long to manage, undo the half-hitch and loop, wind some of the yard around the spindle, and set up to go again. Several times I've taught spinning classes where the first thing I had people do was make their own spindles. It's really _that_ easy! Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn From: salley at niktow.canisius.edu (David Salley) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spinning/Lace Making Date: 27 Nov 94 12:45:26 GMT Organization: Canisius College, Buffalo NY. 14208 Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn (Heather Rose Jones) writes: > : Also, I'm tempted to dabble in spinning; how hard is it to find a spinning > : wheel? Are spinning wheels terribly expensive? > : Pattie Rayl > Yes, they do tend to be expensive. (Mine cost close to $300 a decade and > a half ago.) But fortunately, you don't need a wheel to start learning to > spin. As the A&S officer for my barony and someone who knows his way around libraries, I often helped my fellow barony members who were intimidated by them. One gentlewoman was looking for documentation on spinning and weaving. Among the books I found for her was a pamphlet on how to make a usable spinning wheel out of an old bicycle. Total cost was about $75 not including the bike. I wondered why you wouldn't just buy a wheel, but if they're $300+, that may explain it. ;-) - Dagonell SCA Persona : Lord Dagonell Collingwood of Emerald Lake, CSC, CK, CTr Habitat : East Kingdom, AEthelmearc Principality, Rhydderich Hael Barony Internet : salley at niktow.cs.canisius.edu USnail-net : David P. Salley, 136 Shepard Street, Buffalo, New York 14212-2029 Movie Double Feature : "A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum" and "Roman Holiday" (Contributed by Ianthe d'Averoigne) From: gwennis at infinet.com (Gwennis Mooncat) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Turkish/Palestinian/Double Arm Spindles Date: 22 Nov 1994 23:29:06 GMT David J. Corliss (corliss at hal.physics.wayne.EDU) wrote: : Hold the whole thing together by wrapping a length of yarn around it. : Wrap the yarn you spin about it in the same fashion. When you are done, : just pull out the rod and the other pieces will come out as well, leaving : a neat ball ready for weaving. actually, it makes a neat ball that is ready to ply or wind on a niddy-noddy. then you set the twist, then it is ready to use. just a minor correction! 8) gwennis, who still does better on a wheel... ************************************************************************** mistress gwynydd ni gelligaer, ol, called gwennis natural dyes maven tarkhanum, khanate basking lizard, great darke horde i have 2 cats 8) shire of tirnewydd, barony middle marches, midrealm columbus, ohio member #34497 society for creative anachronism usenet: rec.org.sca email: gwennis at infinet.com wizard at sanctuary: telnet 198.30.154.3 7200 Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: Andrew Lowry Subject: Iceland Knitting / Nalebinding Organization: WorldChat / The Online Source, Burlington Ontario. Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 23:41:29 GMT Good gentles of the SCA. My lady who is interested in 10 th Century Norse culture and anything to do with wool and knitting has found a company (person) that may be of interest to others so inclined.The lady in question is: Louise Heite Importer of Icelandic Wool Post Office Box 53 Camden, Delware 19934 Compuserve 76254,231 1-800-777-9665 Fax (302) 697-7758 Various items of interest to early period knitters, weavers and spinners are for sale including the bane of all SCAers - books! My lady is particularly excited about the opportunity to buy Nalebinding needles and a book, Foroysk Bindingarmynstur. They also carry reindeer antler buttons. So if you are interested drop them a line and you can get your flyer. Regards Richard Larmer From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: spinning/weaving:animals used? Date: 14 Sep 1995 11:49:28 -0400 Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA Tamar (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net) says: dog hair probably was used. Archaeological accounts (_Prehistoric Textiles_, and a book about Scandinavian Textiles) indicate that cow hair and horse hair was used, besides the more usual (to us) sheep and goat hair. However, the coarser hairs I recall were used to make socks (often with needle-looping rather than knitting) instead of woven cloth. But check the books rather than my memory (my books are still in boxes). -- Tamar (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: spinning/weaving:animals used? From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk) Date: Wed, 13 Sep 95 18:22:36 EDT rayotte at badlands.NoDak.edu (Robert Ayotte) writes: > Does anyone have some information if dog hair was used in period > for production of yarns? Any sources would be appricated. > > Horace > _Spin Span Spun_, by Bette Hotcheberg, may have what you need. She didn't miss much. Check good spinning stores. Yours in service to the Society- (Friend) Honour Horne-Jaruk R.S.F. Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf C.O.L. SCA Una Wicca (That Pict) From: devonab at aol.com (Devon AB) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Help - Source for Spinning Wheels/Looms????? Date: 26 Mar 1996 02:04:49 -0500 While not a spinner or weaver myself, I have heard wonderful things told of a place called; The Sheep and Wool Shop 4977 Ridge Chapel Road Marion, NY 14505 716-381-3100 I know that they have looms, spinning and carding devices, but alas I can not tell you what brands. I DO know my lady spent a great deal of money at the shop, and that they do mail-order as well. I hope you find them useful! Devon Adair Bartholomy Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Cheap ugly spinning wheels available From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk) Date: Sun, 09 Feb 97 23:50:07 EST mms6824 at atlas.tntech.edu (Mary Spila) writes: > what do they look like? Saxony Style, castle style, Charka? > > Marian, The Spinster > > una at bregeuf.stonemarche.or > > I've stumbled across a source for spinning wheels which, > > while uglier than Sin unchained, work as well as the very best and > > only cost US $100. > > The only problen is, they are made of modern materials and > > would _not_ be suitable for use at events. > > ... Any opinions as to whether there would be interest in them? Respected friend: They're castle-style, and mostly plastic. As I said, ugly. But they come with 6 bobbins, 3 at 5:1, 3 at 6:1, and experienced spinners can get the ultrafast 18:1 bobbins for US$4 each. ...He's got an experimental double-flyer production model, too... about US$145 including shipping. (Americans, aparently unable to cope with the idea that people with two hands could spin two threads, dubbed these "gossip" wheels, and came up with the interesting idea that two people with a total of four hands and four feet between them were somehow better off using only two hands and only one foot to spin. This is very cute, but useless and senseless. The original purpose was to double the thread produced without doubling the time spent spinning.) If I can get 4 co-conspiritors, I can get the single-head version wholesale for US$80 plus S&H; Email me. Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf Una Wicca (That Pict) (Friend) Honour Horne-Jaruk, R.S.F. To: Subject: Re: Cheap ugly spinning wheels available From: Date: Sat, 08 Feb 97 11:48:08 EST markh at risc.sps.mot.com (Mark S. Harris) writes: > I suspect that there will be of interest. If you wish to make the > source public, I would love to add such a message of my spinning-msg file. > > I'm not enough of a spinner to get one myself. The one time I tried to > do drop spinning the thread kept breaking and getting shorter and shorter > rather than longer. :-) > > Stefan li Rous Respected Friend: ... pity I can't teach you myself; if I can get a three-year-old spinning with a potato-and-pencil spindle, I can certainly help you! However: Babe's Fiber Starter (TM) Great Yarn Loft Co., 120 N. York Road, suite 220 Elmhurst, IL 60126 HTTP://WWW.smartgate.com\yarnspin Retail, they're US$99 plus US$6 shipping&handling. They come with 6 bobbins, 3 at 5:1 and 3 at 6:1 ; 18:1 bobbins are available for US$4 each, but are recommended only for _experienced_ spinners. The builder is working on the possibility of a double-flyer version, for people who are ready for 2-handed production spinning, but want to try it out for less than US$796 -US$1,330. It may be several months before he has a prototype ready for testing; but it might be worth getting your name in, in case he does get a working model. There you go- Honour/Una/Alizaunde From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: silk spinning supplies?? Date: 21 Mar 1997 17:21:38 GMT Organization: University of California at Berkeley MISS PATRICIA M HEFNER wrote: >Does anybody know of a mail-order business that sells raw silk, ready to >spin? .... Not in Oregon, but try this: Straw Into Gold 3006 San Pablo Berkeley CA 94702 510:548-5241 They don't carry as many fibers as they used to, but I know they still have some silk. Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin Dorothy J. Heydt Mists/Mists/West Albany, California PRO DEO ET REGE djheydt at uclink Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:25:34 -0500 From: caroline at netusa1.net (mystarwin/Moira) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Warp Dress for fine singles wool >One of the things that's obvious, to my eye, when looking at photographs >of migration era wool fabrics (usually a four-harness twill type woven >from singles), is the quality and evenness of the spinning. The person >who spun the wool consistently knew what the end result was going to be >and selected her wool accordingly for the cloth she had in mind. The >wool was then processed with a consistency I, as a fairly new spinner, >can at this point only envy. >ciorstan to get a consistent fine spin on your wool, make a lap cloth. Take a dark colour of fabric, mark off in inches so you know how long of a draw to consistently pull. The finer the thread, the tighter the twist, so be aware of that, otherwise the silly stuff will just break all over the place. To test for the right twist, just let go occasionally and see how hard it doubles up. I like mine pretty tight, since when I ply it, it holds better and is finer than usual. Most of the spinners here have lost the talent to do large, fluffy yarn due to we like to spin out very fine stuff. Once you do get the hang of spinning fine, try some flax. You have to keep your fingers wet tho, to keep it from grabbing onto your fingers. Flax is also very rough on your skin, so keep the lotion handy! Moira Breabadair, MoAS Shire of Narrental Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 05:55:56 -0400 From: Melanie Wilson To: LIST SCA arts Subject: Drum Carders/wheels and looms-making OK the book you need is Wheels and looms by David Bryant, gives details of maning Spinning Wheels, Looms, Drum carders and ,most other accesories, brill. Mel From: priest at NOSPAMvassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Spinning Wheels (was Making a period viking tent) Date: 26 Oct 1998 03:22:21 GMT Organization: Vassar College Wilelm the Smith (powers at snoopy.cis.ohio-state.edu) wrote: >>>Ah the spinning wheel wasn't invented yet during the migration era; but >>>I can provide you with a soapstone spindle whorl; I assume you >>>were thinking of a vertical loom. > >>The spinning wheel *had* been invented by the Migration Age, but it hadn't >>made it to Europe yet: they were using it for cotton out East. >>Thora Sharptooth > >I'm sorry I was just going on "Cathedral, Forge and Waterwheel" by >Frances and Joseph Geis which mentions that the spinning wheel was >introduced to europe in the 13th century, (earliest picture Baghdad 1237), >from the east. So I asked my wife the spinster and she said that >the great wheel dates to about 1000; would you be refering to a charka (sp) >for spinning cotton? John Munro's article on "Textile Technology" in the _Encyclopedia of the Middle Ages_ says that the first documented use of the great-wheel style of spinning wheel is in the "twelfth-century Italian fustian industry" and that it came in via "the Muslim cotton industries." He cites Endrei, whom I haven't read, and Mazzaoui, whom I have. I'd be interested in other references to the great wheel in Europe, especially if they date it before the twelfth century. It's pretty widely agreed in the literature that the great wheel developed from the charka. The charka, accordingly, is *significantly* older than the great wheel. *********************************************************** Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth capriest at cs. vassar. edu Frostahlid, Austrrik http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/textileres.html *********************************************************** Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 08:30:20 -0800 From: Eleanor of Leycestershyre To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re:Distaffs on the cheap! CKONOW at aol.com wrote: > Hi....the bundle, or strick, of flax can be a bit unwieldy. Therefore, it is > tied onto the distaff to give it a place to be, out of the way, and yet still > be spinnable. I don't have a distaff on either of my wheels, so I place the > strick into a towel and roll it up. It does about the same thing. Now if I > could only get that straw-into-gold thing going...Thea I don't have a distaff on my wheel either, and just haven't managed to afford one of those $75.00 free-standing ones that I see in catalogs. :-< I have also used the "towel trick"...but I wasn't very happy with that. I have started using a commercially combed roving instead, which spins much like a wool roving. But, the staple length is only about 3 to 4 inches. :-< This is *allright* and I still get a nice fine single, however, I really want to spin from the strick! I tried putting the strick over my shoulder, but that just resulted in a rather unwieldy and messy strick! :-< I finally ended up cutting the strick up into 4" chunks, recombing, into rovings or rolags, and spinning from those. This worked very well...but still not the same effect as spinning the long line strick. Arrgh! There are many kinds of distaffs. Patsy Zawiatowski (sp?) in her video tape suggests taking a length of dowel, about 1/2" - 3/4", and glueing some large beads, spaced a little apart, at one end. She then ties a ribbon ("which should match the color of your eyes"...according to her. :->) in the middle of the strick, ties the strick to the dowel at the point where the beads are. She then wraps the strick with the remaining ribbon in the usual fashion, and uses a music stand or dress form base to hold the "distaff" upright. I thought this a rather clever idea, though I have yet to try it. Don't have a music stand, and my dress form always has a garment in progress, on it! ;-) In period manuscript pictures, I've seen ladies holding the distaff under one arm...which looks very uncomfortable...or even tucked into their belt...also not too appealing to me. I came up with the idea of using one of those inexpensive commercial flag/banner poles that you see everywhere these days, that people use to display little seasonal banners in front of their houses. It already has a nice knob on one end. I'll tie the strick on just as patsy does, but then haven't decided on the base yet. I've thought about a coffee can filled with plaster of paris...but not delighted with that idea. Anyone got any other ideas that might work well for the base? I have no wood working tools, so it needs to be simple to do. Eleanor Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 16:43:09 -0700 From: Curtis & Mary To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Distaffs on the cheap! > I don't have a distaff on my wheel either, and just haven't managed to > afford one of those $75.00 free-standing ones that I see in catalogs. I never thought of buying one :-0 Mine is made from an old wooden tool handle that broke at the tool end. I have a sort of homemade pole holder I found in the junk pile in the yard when I moved in, but another sort would be an old live christmas tree stand, you know with three screws that you screw in tight to the trunk? Check out the Salvation Army over the next couple of month, I'm sure you'll find one, and if it's too light to stay put pour some redimix concrete or plaster of paris into the basin where you put water for the tree. I also found out that really, the taller the better. You are only taking a few fibers off the bottom at a time and it's best to have those fibers a little above the orifice to the wheel so you don't get too many at once. {Of course this is me and I spun from a *full* 3-4 ounce strick at a time--looks really cool all on the distaff at once} I found that thing in the belt too awkard to spin easily with, might work well for woolens, but was hard to manage with trying to spin extra fine flax. I did discover that my wooden folding chair that I sit on to spin at events would work if I wedged the distaff just right, sometimes with a tie around it and the chair to keep it steady. Mary, in AZ where it's cool enough to have a fire at night and taking forever for the just washed wool to dry! Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:44:02 -0500 From: Margo Lynn Hablutzel To: A&S List Subject: Fiber into Linen -- additional information Of course, the two questions asked are the ones that most need a visual! Percy asked for elaboration of: << 6) Place combed flax on distaff for spinning. >> A distaff looks like a tiny platform on a staff, with a pointed stick coming out of each corner. The flax is laid betweeen these poles in small, straight groups alternating N-S and E-W. You pull the ends as they hang down, and spin off the pile on the distaff. Check in your dictionary to see if there is a picture. Often in children's fairy-tale books, a spinning character (Princess Aurora a/k/a Sleeping Beauty, or the girl in Rumplestitskin) is shown spinning on a wheel with a distaff. --- Morgan Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 09:10:26 -0700 From: Curtis & Mary To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Linen thread Stefan li Rous wrote: > Lyle FitzWilliam said: > > >Have you processed enough nettle to make any yardage? I'm curious... > > > > _Significant_ yardage? No. Enough to hand-lay into cord, yes (I didn't > > spin it -- my mother has a Great Wheel, not a flax wheel). The result > > was very satisfying, though. > > What is the differance between a "Great Wheel" and a "flax wheel"? The great wheel is turned by hand and is really a lot like a drop spindle turned on it's side, with the spindle whorl grooved to take the drive band from the wheel. flax wheels have a 'flyer' with a seperate bobbin. [most all modern wheels are flyer types rather than spindle types] Really there is no reason you can't spin anything on any type of wheel or drop spindle. It is a matter of it being easier to spin certain things on different equipment. Especially on wheels because wheels have an adjustment for revolving the bobbin or spindle a set number of times for each revolution of the wheel. Different sorts of wheels have different ratios. Fine threads, especailly flax, silk and cotton need a very high number of twists per inch, while soft fuzzy thick woolen yarns need much less. Modern wheels are a little more versitile since many companys make different sorts of 'maidens and flyers' for different purposes. For instance, Ashford wheels, possibly the most popular wheel sold in the US because it is one of the least expensive, comes with a 'regular' flyer, but there are also available 'lace' flyers which have very high ratios and let you spin very fine, high twist threads with less effort and a 'bulky' flyer which has huge bobbins and very low ratios, good for making thick fuzzy woolen yarn. Clear as mud, eh? As a point of reference my older model Ashford Traditional with a regular flyer has two ratios, depending on which groove on the flyer I put my drive band in, one is 1:9 the other is 1:12. Mairi, Atenveldt Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 04:58:24 -0700 (MST) From: starsinger at webtv.net (theresa sorrell) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: RE: Linen thread The main difference between a flax wheel and a great wheel is size. The great or walking or wool wheel is about 5-6 feet tall and uses a spindle to wind the wool on. A flax wheel is smaller and gives a tighter twist to the yarn and usually uses the flyer system. You can spin wool on a flax wheel. The earliest woodcut I've seen printed for a spinning wheel is dated 1248. It is an early wool type wheel with no legs. Paula Simmons has a book on spinning, weaving and working with wool that has plans for an almost period wheel and other accessories. She even tells you how to raise the sheep. Starsinger Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 20:08:59 -0800 From: Brett and Karen Williams To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Linen thread There are some techical differences. A great wheel is, as described by another respondent, basically a spindle set on its side and driven by a large wheel, usually powered by the spinster's hand rather than her foot. Great wheels are also called 'walking wheels' for this reason. A very skilled spinster using a great wheel can, I'm told, flick her yarn over the tip in such a way to wind on her yarn, obviating the need to wind on by stopping the wheel and winding on slowly. Some great wheels will have an acceleration device attached between the drive wheel and the spindle, usually some kind of Miner's head (so-called for the inventor, who patented his device in the early 1800's). A Miner's head is usually a wooden disk that the drive band turns, which in turn spins the spindle. The differences in ratios between the acceleration head (said wooden disk) and the drive band from the main wheel increase the speed of the spindle exponentially. Most modern wheels have a separate dingus one can order called a 'lace flyer', which ends up turning somewhere in the 40:1 ratio; a Miner's head or accelerating head on a great wheel will be up there above 100 and even as much as 200. A great wheel also limits one's drafting to woolen as tending the revolutions of the great wheel pretty much precludes using both hands for the worsted pinch. A more modern flax wheel has both a flyer (which enables one to wind on the spun yarn without stopping the wheel) and a treadle. The flyer has been variously attributed to Leonardo da Vinci and Anonymous of Unknow-- and appears in Germany in the 1500's. The advantage of this type of wheel is one need not discontinue treadling at a steady speed to wind on one's thread thus increasing one's production speed-- plus, one can spin worsted threads as one's foot on the treadle means both hands are free for spinning. Before the invention of the treadle, the spinster feeding a loom would have to spin worsted (preferred for warp as it's MUCH stronger than woolen-spun) using a drop spindle. ciorstan Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:05:38 -0700 From: Curtis & Mary To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Linen thread > A more modern flax wheel has both a flyer (which enables one to wind on > the spun yarn without stopping the wheel) and a treadle. The flyer has > been variously attributed to Leonardo da Vinci and Anonymous of Unknow-- > and appears in Germany in the 1500's. Linen Handspinning and Weaveing, by Patricia Baines, page 29 shows a flyer wheel, turned by hand instead of foot, date 1480 > Before the invention of the treadle the spinster feeding a > loom would have to spin worsted (preferred for warp as it's MUCH > stronger than woolen-spun) using a drop spindle. there were also a lot of guild regulations against wheel spun yarn for certain fabrics. I once thought of it sort of as the union protecting the workers status quo, but realize that the early wheels were eminently suited to woolen spinning, but not the tight hard spun worsted, therefore the reason for the regulations. Mairi, Atenveldt Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 19:34:29 -0700 (MST) From: starsinger at webtv.net (theresa sorrell) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Linen thread and charkas I love that issue of spinoff with the shawls and the gloves and the chakra spining wheels. But charka's are not eastern european period. Paula Simmons has a book out that give plans fo a handcranked spinning wheel that looks a lot like the picture I saw dated areound 1248. I also love the issue that's all about drop spindles. I just ordered a new one with an acorn for the end. It's for lace weight spinning. My newest book is the russian gossomer weigh shawl book. So little time. So much to do. Starsinger From: eanderso at acs.ucalgary.ca (Elizabeth A. Anderson) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: An Tir Spinners Guild Date: 17 Nov 1998 10:56:44 -0700 Organization: The University of Calgary To interested fibre craftspeople: The webpage for the An Tir Spinners Guild is now up at the An Tir Kingdom site. There's information on the Guild and its e-list, a bibliography, sources list, and a short history of spinning. The address is: www.antir.sca.org/Guilds/Spinners Nan Compton (mka Bess Anderson) eanderso at ucalgary.ca Barony of Montengarde Principality of Avacal Tolle legens! [submitted by: "Philippa Alderton" ] From: brenmichevans To: sca-middle at dnaco.net Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 10:41 PM Subject: [Mid] Hook spindles A question for the more experienced spinners on the Bridge- Several years ago, I bought a hook spindle at Pennsic, and received some basic instruction on how to use it. I have used it to spin some very small amounts of various fibers. I have a wheel, and use that by preference, but purchased it because I wanted to have a way to hand spin for A & S. I know how to use a drop spindle, but I am right-handed and have a medical condition that cuts off the circulation to my left arm when I raise it, so I don't use it any more except briefly for demos. My question is-is it possible to spin a thread of significant length on this device? I was taught to wind the completed thread onto the spindle itself, and I leave the bottom half of the spindle clear so I can spin it across my thigh. It takes very little time for the thread to become sufficiently bulky to get in my way. Is there a way to wind the thread into a ball or something while still leaving it continuously attached to the spindle, or do I simply have to cut the thread and start over every time this happens? I'm sure the answer to this is very obvious, and I'll feel stupid when I find out, but right now, I just can't figure it! Lady Brianne of Greenlea Brenda G. Evans brenmichevans at cwix.com [Submitted by: "Philippa Alderton" ] From: Patrick Mooney To: sca-middle at dnaco.net Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 12:10 AM Subject: Re: [Mid] Hook spindles I have been spinning for some years and I think I may have two solutions to your problem. 1. Try spinning holding the fibre in your left hand with the fingers pointed upwards and your arm bent but close to your side, draw the fibre towards the right and across your body with the spindle hanging down on your right side. 2. The method I most recommend is using a distaff. The distaff is not just for flax, it is for all types of prepared fibre, I could bore you with details. My suggestion to you is to use a distaff of approximately 30" to 36" and medium/long wools, such as Romney or Lincoln (both are pretty much period, again I could bore you on this subject). Tuck the distaff under your left arm, or in your belt, pocket or waistband. Place the distaff in a position that is comfortable for your arm to be in a bent but relaxed position. Draw the fibre with your left hand, controlling the spinning triangle and draw it across your body to your right side. This method can be done walking, sitting or standing. This method can be seen in a 15th century manuscript, Royal MS.20 CV.f75 from the British Library. My concern is what does your hook spindle look like. Sometimes we are told a spindle is one thing, when in reality it is something different. Are you referring to a spinning hook, which looks like a bit like a crochet hook or are you referring to a spindle with a whorl and hook at one end of the shaft? If you are referring to a spinning hook, then that is a different technique. Ercadh bean ui Padraic (mka Carol Mooney) From: WSPaddison at aol.com To: sca-middle at dnaco.net Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:06 AM Subject: Re: [Mid] Hook spindles brenmichevans at MCI2000.com writes: << I was taught to wind the completed thread onto the spindle itself, and I leave the bottom half of the spindle clear so I can spin it across my thigh. It takes very little time for the thread to become sufficiently bulky to get in my way. >> Lady Brianne, Although I am fairly new to spinning, I have some advice that might help. I too was taught to wind the spindle up my leg. I ran into a few problems. First, it would get caught in my dress so I never could get a good quick spin. Second, when I finally started to get something on the spindle it would bet bunchy, matting together, thus tangling. Third, my arm tired quickly, and like you I have nerve condition that cuts off circulation to my right arm when I extend it. Because of all of this, Fourth....the quality of my spinning suffered. I just basically sucked. Since I found spinning comforting I really didn't want to give it up so I found another way. Try this. Take the bottom inch of your spindle and rest it between the tips of your middle and forefinger the thumb of your dominant hand. Place your thumb on the spindle, now in the motion of snapping your fingers, quickly spin and release the spindle. I have been able to give mine an excellent long lasting spin that allows me to spin a lenghth of 8 ft in one twirl. This technique has never agrivated my nerve. Arwenna Wen Seis Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 05:58:13 -0500 From: Melanie Wilson To: "INTERNET:sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" Subject: Great Wheel Plans and other textile plans The Great wheel plans were GBP 6.20 The Spindle wheel the same (smaller version of the Great wheel) There is also plans for, Sloping Spinning Wheel, Norwegian Spinning wheel, Shetland, upright, english traditional, connecticut chair, arkwright, samual crompton, French, Dordogne, Charka wheels. Drun Carder, spinning stool, tabby loom, tablet loom, inkle loom, 4 shaft table, foot power looms and warping mill! Top price of any is GBP10 Plus postage of course. David Bryant +44 1565 651 681 (usually an ansaphone !) He also did a book with many of these plans in it but this is now OOP. Last time I bought plans for somebody in the US he didn't take plastic only sterling so I sent a cheque for her, as I have a sterling & a dollar account (and take plastic in my book business ) I'm willing to help out if anyone is stuck Mel Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:13:10 -0500 From: Melanie Wilson To: Blind.Copy.Receiver at compuserve.com Subject: Some books on natural & period dyeing I found some English small press publications that might be of interest to you folks, contact me direct if you want to buy any of them. Mel All prices are British pounds approx 1 pound = 1.6 US dollars, plus postage. They are A5 slim volumes.at 2.50 pounds each. Dyer in the Garden-how to grow common dye plants & dye with them The begineer Spinner- Basic fleece knowledge The Medieval Dyepot-history of traditional British dyes The spinners Rhymerie- somgs and poems about spinning, weaving and shepherding Knitting handspun yarns- how to calculate the right amount for a garment, plus basic patterns. Everything in the kitchen sink-dyeing with kitchen waste The insatiable spinner- spinning with the likes of llama, alpaca, angora, dogs, cats etc The dyers palette- how to get the whole spectrum from natural dyes A Shepherd's miscellany-, crafts rhymes, stories & traditions on Shepards & sherherding A Calender of common dye plants, -Nettle, dock,etc plants for dyes from Britain The foreroom rug- heirloom hooked rugs Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 10:37:05 EDT From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Knitting and spinning I have spun some hemp with a drop spindle. Works best if you employ some saliva, but you can do it either way. Haven't done enough to know whether one is better than the other. Ingvild Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 12:46:51 -0500 From: Roberta R Comstock To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Knitting and spinning On Wed, 7 Jul 1999 02:14:59 EDT writes: >I have spun a little flax. I tried the dry method, as I'm not really >sure the wet method is god for my wheel. Any thoughts there? > >Morgaine Wet spinning of linen produces a smoother firmer thread. It really isn't a sloppy process. If you don't leave the occasional drop of water standing on your wheel, it shouldn't hurt it. Hertha who hasn't done much spinning recently, but used to do quite a bit. Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 17:33:36 -0600 From: "Cathie" To: Subject: Re: Knitting and spinning >I have spun a little flax. I tried the dry method, as I'm not really sure >the wet method is god for my wheel. Any thoughts there? > >Morgaine The wet method is how you are supposed to spin flax. It not only keeps the fiber together while spinning it keeps the dust content to a minimum. That stuff is NOT GOOD to breath. I usually wear a dust guard. I don't get water on my wheel and the few drops that I've got on the wood hasn't hurt it any. How are you using the water? Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:01:39 -0700 From: "Curtis at Mary" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Simplicity > THE PROBLEM: Is this sort of a dress really period? I've seen people wear > the sort, but I'd like to be able to find a source to document it. > > Elonwen I did just this project I used commercial roving, spun, dyed, woven at 24" wide.....7 pounds of wool. Took every bit of my spare time for several months. One of the things you need to decide is how fine you want to spin and how you will finish the cloth. Fulling and shrinking the cloth can cause a loss of as much as 25% in lenth and width. spinning and weaving and fulling some samples are the only way to predict how much you might lose since a lot will depend on the weaving set as well as the type of wool. Courser wool will not shrink as much as fine wool does{Merino shrinks like crazy with almost no agitation}. To help in your calculations measure out a known amount of wool, 2, 4, 8 ounces or so. Spin it the size you want {remembering that period cloth was woven from singles yarn, not plied} then measure how many yards of thread you have. Try to keep your spinning consistent from skein to skein {that was hard!} Do a weaving sample from this spinning sample, say 1/2 the width you plan your project to be by 1 yard long. When you take it off the loom finish as you plan to finish your project. That is, if you don't want to full it, then just wash it without agitating it. If you are going to full it then measure it in both directions when you get it off the loom, I use the washing machine for fulling. You can stop it at any point, and check the cloth, when it's beginning to look like you want, stop the machine and spin out the water. _but_ time the amount of time the machine was agitating, so you'll know how long to leave it running next time! {I forgot one of my lengths of cloth in the machine and it went through a whole cycle! shrunk twice as much as the first peice} When it's dry measure it again, then get a math whiz to help you figure the percentage of shrinkage or you can rough guess by writing down the loss, for example if it was really 36 inches long and shrinks to 34 you've lost 2 inches on the yard. So, for every yard of cloth needed for your dress you will have to weave 2 extra inches. if your sample is 1/2 as wide as your finished cloth will be then multiply it's loss by 2 so you know how wide a cloth you should end up with. Hope this helps a little. Gee I sure rambled on, let me know if something doesn't make sense! Mary in Arizona {Maistreas Mairi Broder, Atenveldt} Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:49:23 -0700 From: Mary Hysong To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: hand-carders or combs? Patricia Hefner wrote: > I've just read some notes on Stefan's Florilegium in which some gentles said > that hand-cards are not period, but someone else said that a hand-carder had > been excavated by some archeologists near Dublin. we have some period illuminations of what look like hand cards {though I can think of a couple of them I've forgot which books they might be in, but can post when I find them} > They recommend combs over cards. Cards were also used. Depends on the type of wool which is appropriate. Long lustre wool is best combed {I'm thinking of stuff like Cotswold and related breeds}so it can be spun as worsted yarn, where all the fibers are parallel to the length of the thread. This makes a long lasting hard wearing yarn and was especially prized in later period because it could have a nice nap raised, not once, but many times over it's life. Some evidence that clothes were re-napped and even re-dyed on a fairly regular basis. While shorter, softer wools were carded, and spun 'woolen' where the fibers go in all directions, but especially rights angles to the thread. This is soft and fuzzy and is most suitable for coarse knitting, as well as weft thread in weaving heavy cloth for cloaks or 'ruggs' > I used to spin but haven't done it in eons. I'm trying to start back > but I haven't done very much research into period spinning. It's a little like bike riding, won't take you long to get back in the 'spin' {can't help it I was a herald before everything else } > I prefer a drop > spindle over a wheel for $$$ reasons--some of these wheels go for $600+-- > ouch$$$. You can get a second hand wheel like an Ashford traveler for under $300 from places like the Spinners and Weavers HouseKeeping Pages where individuals sell and trade their extra stuff. Got mine that way. Paid less, even with shipping for it than the cost of new, with extra things that wouldn't have come with a new one. Just takes some looking > Also, I'd imagine that there would be quite a difference between > any kind of period wheel--like the Viking Great Wheel--and a modern wheel. > Advice, suggestions, etc, etc will be greatly welcomed! OK, I haven't a clue about the Viking wheel, not having done much research on Vikings! But there are pictures pre 1500 of flyer type wheels {that is with the flyer with little hooks that winds thread onto removable bobbins, just like we see now} The main difference was it was handturned, not foot powered. I'm not sure when they put the foot treadle on them, everything I've seen has been post 1600, so I'm still looking there. However, just for info, 50 or 60 years after the drawing of this wheel was done, there is a wood cut of what seem to be pro flax spinners {all men, BTW} spinning with spindle and distaff. There were also guild regs against using wheel spun yarn in certain types of cloth. Possibly they were just interested in their pay checks or perhaps the spindle spun yarn was finer. I know I can spin much finer with my spindle than on my wheel. > Whoah, I almost forgot the last part of this note. Does anyone know if there > will be any merchants at Gulf Wars who carry period spinning items? If I > don't have any stuff by then I may come looking for you! Thanks! I know Master Mark of Guakler's up in British Columbia sells a repro of a pewter whorl that he hand casts. I bought one at Estrella, but haven't had time to try it out. Mairi, ATenveldt Date: 24 Feb 00 11:40:53 PST From: Eilidh Swann To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: drop spindle weights Isabelle wrote: << I'm confused--some people tell me it's easier to start on a light (2 oz. or so) spindle because I don't want too much pull and some people tell me to use a heavier one. I'm going to get one of the beginners' kits from an Internet site. I'll figure out spindles and then start to figure out this carding stuff!! These hand carders are *not* cheap. >> I started on what I'll call a light/medium weight bottom-whorl drop spindle. It spun like a dream. I've experimented with some medium/heavy weight bottom-whorl spindles since then, and I'm glad I started slightly lighter. Because I'd had some experience, I was able to deal with the heavier draw without feeling like I always dropped/broke my strands. I've made some VERY light-weight bottom-whorl spindles since then, that I use to teach young kids. The first ones were definitely "too light" because they light to unwind right away. I'm going to make the next set slightly heavier to keep the spin going, but not so heavy that the "beginner" thread breaks constantly. I'm still a bottom-whorl fanatic, but a few top-whorl's I tried weren't so bad. Hope that gives you some hints. -- Eilidh ** eilidh at usa.net ** Darach Shire, CAID Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 17:34:15 GMT From: "Elonwen ferch Dafydd" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: drop spindle weights >I've experimented with some medium/heavy weight bottom-whorl >spindles since then, and I'm glad I started slightly lighter. >Because I'd had some experience, I was able to deal with the >heavier draw without feeling like I always dropped/broke my >strands. Well, I hope I'd been that smart when I started... My lord made me a VERY heavy drop spindle, but for some reason or another it worked all right from the beginning! But now that I've used medium weight drop spindle as well, I can see the difference... But for making thick yarn for thick, heavy cloth, I still prefer the heavier version. It has its own feeling... Elonwen Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 10:40:43 -0800 From: Cynthia Konow / Thea Northernridge To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Spinning A few references on the history of spinning include the following: Fannin, Allen, Handspinning, Art and Technique, Van Norstrand Reinhold Co., 1970 Fournier, Nola, Fournier, Jane, In Sheep's Clothing, A Handspinner's Guide to Wool, Interweave Press, 1995 Hochberg, Bette, Spin Span Spun, Fact and Folklore for Spinners and Weavers, author published, 1979 Ross, Mabel, The Essentials of Handspinning, Ross Services, 1980 In Sheeps Clothing will give you information about period breeds used in spinning; the rest have info about wheels and spindles and such in period. Thea ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Cynthia Konow-Brownell AKA Thea Northernridge, Calligrapher spinrldy at san.rr.com Weaver, Spinner, Costumer, Soapmaker San Diego, California Barony of Calafia, Caid From: Aceia at aol.com Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 17:57:39 EDT Subject: BG - historical spinning and weaving site. To: bryn-gwlad at ansteorra.org Found this tidbit and thought I would share! http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Woods/7831/spinning.html -Robin Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:03:27 -0500 From: "Sara K. Tallarovic" To: "Mark.S Harris (rsve60)" Don't know if this web site might provide information you are looking for to add to the Florilegium. It describes and discusses the wide variety of distaff types and includes some instructions on loading a few. http://www.ealdormere.sca.org/university/spinning/distaff.html I've also forwarded it to the person looking for the instructions on loading a distaff. -Shu'la Subject: BG - Historical Tidbit Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 10:11:46 -0600 From: Aceia To: Greetings to all the spinners out there! Saturday the 6th of Jan. was St. Distaffs' Day (AKA Roc Day) Roc Day is a celebration for spinners The German word for distaff if "rocken" and a distaff was sometimes called a "rock" in English speaking countries. St. Distaffs' Day was celebrated by spinners in Britain on Jan 7th. This is the day after the Twelfth Night, when the Christmas festivities ended and spinners resumed their work. Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 17:10:16 -0400 From: AEllin Olafs dotter Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] available merchandise, was things they dont explain about Pennsic To: Cooks within the SCA Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise wrote: >> What's a strick of flax??? > Heck, who SELLS a strick of flax at Pennsic? > -- Jadwiga, who is going to get back to spinning flax real soon now, > uh-huh! A strick is, um, a bunch, sort of, of line flax, almost ready to spin. You take this flax and dress he distaff, and then you can spin. Hardly anyone was selling it... I had taken a flax spinning class, and had thought this was one place I'd be able to get it. Well... there was more wool roving, and silk caps (silk prepared in the modern way for spinning, rather than being reeled off the cocoon, as was done,) and stuff like that, but I didn't need it. It was one of those vendors, though, and a few more had a couple of them, but sold out early. AEllin From: Stefan li Rous Date: October 11, 2006 1:36:14 PM CDT To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Spinning question On Oct 11, 2006, at 11:58 AM, Chelsea Williams wrote: > Good gentles of the Ansteorran list, > I was wondering if any of you that spin had a good suggestion for a book > about spinning. I'm interested in it and if I read a book about it and > answer some questions, I get extra credit in one of my classes. I > figured this was the place to turn to. > > -Lady Grainne Kathleen NicPadraig MacDaniel Are you interested in drop spindles or spinning wheel? For info on spinning wheels, I highly recommend this book. It goes into the history of spinning wheels and describes the different types of wheels and when they came info use: Spinning Wheels, Spinners and Spinning Baines, Patricia ISBN: 0-7134-6205-1 Chrysalis Books 1996 Stefan -------- THLord Stefan li Rous Barony of Bryn Gwlad Kingdom of Ansteorra Mark S. Harris Austin, Texas Edited by Mark S. Harris spinning-msg Page 26 of 26