sewing-msg - 4/8/08 Sewing ideas and stitches. Helpful ideas for those new to sewing. NOTE: See also the files: sergers-msg, sewng-machnes-msg, sewing-tables-msg, sewing-tools-msg, washing-msg, linen-msg, velvet-msg, silk-msg, textiles-msg, cotton-art. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: PRIEST at vaxsar.vassar.EDU (THORA SHARPTOOTH) Date: 2 Dec 91 13:37:00 GMT Organization: The Internet Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto, and especially Joshua, from Thora Sharptooth, greeting! My specialty is Viking and early (i.e., pre-1066) period, so this may not be of use to you later period folk, but here's what I know about early period seams and seam finishings. Most of this information is drawn from the excavations at Jorvik and Hedeby, because the findings from them have been carefully analyzed and comprehensively published in the last decade. As it happens, this is the research in which I am presently engaged, so forgive me if I blather.... A wide variety of seams and seam finishings were used in the Viking Age. Most garments were very carefully and neatly sewn and finished, frequently with tailoring details that are invisible from the outside. At Birka many seams were reinforced at the cut edges by tiny sewn-down braided cords. But to answer Joshua's questions more specifically: >1) right-sides-together, sew near the edge, spread apart Yes, with one refinement. Generally the flat parts would also be sewn down to the rest of the garment, with either a hem or an overcast stitch. This strengthens the garment as well as the seam. >2)French seams Yes. From the site of Hedeby in Denmark we have an example of "French seams" on wool in the tenth century. (Right sides together, sew closely to the edge; turn inside-out and sew farther back from the edge, enclosing the first seam in a little tube. Press to one side.) >3)flat-felled seams Yes. From the site of Jorvik (Viking Age York) there is evidence of flat-felled seams of several varieties, also in the ninth, tenth, and early eleventh centuries. Flat-felling is the seam finishing most likely to appear on linen from this site, leading one researcher to suggest that it was typical for use on underwear. >4)right-side to wrong-side, overlapping by 3/4" or so Yes; see below. Both Hedeby and Jorvik yield many sorts of seams wherein the wrong side of one piece and the right side of another are sewn together. >Same as 4), but then rolled over and sewed down again to form a sort of flat-fell Again, the raw edges (or selvedges) of seams constructed in this way were generally sewn down. >6)etc. Generally speaking, running stitch was used for the initial line of sewing on a finished seam. I have not yet found documentation for back-stitch, which is the stitch with which most people are taught to hand-sew seams. Also, when I get home I'll look up the eighth century Coptic tunic article I have on file and see what stitches were used to construct it; if there's anything new or different there, I'll post it. I'm glad you didn't ask about hems--there are about two dozen variations! ;> I apologize for not being able to footnote this properly, but my sources are at home. Generally, they are Agnes Geijer's BIRKA II, Inga Hagg's book on the finds at Hedeby harbour, and Penelope Walton's TEXTILES, CORDAGE, AND RAW FIBRE FROM 16-22 COPPERGATE (Archaeology of York series). As always, anyone who wants sources or who is just generally interested in this is encouraged to drop me a line. ***************************************************************************** Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth Poughkeepsie, NY Frosted Hills priest at vassar.edu East Kingdom ***************************************************************************** From: PRIEST at vaxsar.vassar.EDU (THORA SHARPTOOTH) Date: 3 Dec 91 03:25:00 GMT Organization: The Internet Unto the Fishyfolk of the Rialto from Thora Sharptooth, greeting! Sorry, I caught this mistake too late to correct it before it was posted: >>2)French seams > >Yes. From the site of Hedeby in Denmark we have an example of "French seams" >on wool in the tenth century. (Right sides together, sew closely to the edge; ^^^^^ >turn inside-out and sew farther back from the edge, enclosing the first seam in >a little tube. Press to one side.) That should be, "WRONG sides together." While I'm here, here's a report on the Coptic tunic seams from the eighth century: flat-felled, on a linen tunic with wool trimmings of several sorts. And here are the sources. Geijer, Agnes. DIE TEXTILFUNDE AUS DEN GRABERN, Vol. II of BIRKA: UNTERSUCHUNGEN UND STUDIEN. Uppsala: Kungl. Vitterhets Historie och Antikvitets Akadamien, 1938. Hagg, Inga. DIE TEXTILFUNDE AUS DEM HAFEN VON HAITHABU, Vol. 20 of BERICHTE UBER DIE AUSGRABUNGEN IN HAITHABU. Neumunster: Karl Wachholz Verlag, 1984. Marko, Ksynia, and Dobbie, Margaret. "The Conservation of an Eighth Century A.D. Sleeveless Coptic Tunic," STUDIES IN CONSERVATION 27 (1982), pp. 154-160. Walton, Penelope. TEXTILES, CORDAGE AND RAW FIBRE FROM 16-22 COPPERGATE, Vol. 17, Fascicule 5, of THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF YORK. Dorchester: The Council for British Archaeology and The Dorset Press, 1989. ***************************************************************************** Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth Poughkeepsie, NY Frosted Hills priest at vassar.edu East Kingdom ***************************************************************************** From: ck290 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chandra L. Morgan-Henley) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: tablet weaving info needed. Date: 27 Sep 1993 21:30:06 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) I don't weave, but I have a comment about Fray-Check... I have attempted to use it on both finely and not-so-finely woven materials. It works best on fine, tight weaves such as satins and (the dreaded OOP) taffeta. Also, despite claims on the label, it *does* wash out after a few washings -- and dry cleaning will remove it on the first go-round. OTOH, it *does* prevent satin, etc., from fraying while you are working on it. But be sure to lay the fabric on several layers of newspaper when applying the stuff, and expect color to leach from the fabric into the newspaper (the fabric will also stick to the newspaper when the Fray-Check dries, but can be pulled off easily with no transference of newspaper or ink to the fabric) -- the dye in the fabric will also color your hands if you handle it while the Fray-Check is wet. In Service, even when it's distinctly OOP, Cara The Unbalanced -- Chandra L. Morgan-Henley ck290 at Cleveland.Freenet.Edu Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: garb sewn with sergers From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honur Horne-Jaruk) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 93 20:11:41 EST Unto Amethysta(and anybody else with the same question about sergers and garb)Alizaunde sends greetings (and congratulations on your new toy!) -Only two suggestions: 1: how fast it goes can cause BIG problems. Buy old sheets at Goodwill and practice. LOTS. My sisters were full-time, pro seamstresses for years, using sergers daily; they said it took about one full set of cones of thread to adjust to a new serger well enough to produce quality results. 2:Don't use it for ANTHING that shows. I use a machine (straight stitch- I'm poor) for anything I can, partly because some period things, like seamstresses' neuropathy, should not be re-created; and partly because Life Is Too Short For Handstitching Straight Seams. But on the insides of cuffs, and on necklines and hems, Serging is Serging and looks like serging. Even a regular machine's zigzag looks more like handwork- and that's saying plenty. (If it will never show WHEN WORN and you don't enter competitions, Don't Sweat the Small Stuff.) If the speed of a serger gives you more time to research and design better quality, more authentic garb, it's done you and the Society a favor; if its speed becomes an excuse for cranking out endless stacks of `they'll do for fighters', it hasn't. Good luck. Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: viking sewing stitches? Date: 20 Jun 1994 06:11:01 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley : Again I, Tarrach Alfson, send greetings and beg answers to a : question. I am in the middle of an attempt to make a viking shirt : similar to the one found in Viborg (and recently the subject of an : artical in the Early Period). The information I have on this find does : not mention what type of stitching was used to sew the arm sleeves : together, or to finish hems, or how they finished the raw edges of the : inner seams since it is said that all raw edges are finished. I am : currently waiting on an inter-library loan for Arheological Textiles in : Northern Europe (Coppenhagen 1992) which I hope to help answer these and : other questions. However, faster answers from any knowledgable : individuals would be greatly appreciated, as I hope to have it finished : for an upcoming event (two weeks from now). Thanks in advance! Margrethe Hald's book "Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials" notes seams done in running stitch, herringbone stitch, and twisted buttonhole stitch. There are also viking-era items with a decorative seam-joining done in "raised fishbone stitch" (a more heavily overlapped version of herringbone). Edge-finishes include overcast (whip) stitch and buttonhole. Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn From: bloodthorn at sloth.equinox.gen.nz (Jennifer Geard) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: viking sewing stitches? Date: Tue, 21 Jun 94 21:13:39 GMT Organization: Lethargy Inc. Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn wrote: >There are also viking-era items with a decorative seam-joining done in >"raised fishbone stitch" (a more heavily overlapped version of herringbone). This is my stitch of choice for quick sewing, since it binds the edges at the same time as making the structural join. Looks good too. Pagan ==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\==/==\== Jennifer Geard bloodthorn at sloth.equinox.gen.nz Christchurch, New Zealand From: parkerd at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.CA (Diana Parker) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Cloaks Date: 15 Nov 1994 08:37:19 -0500 Organization: The Internet >I need help in finding a place in Ohio that can get me a pattern for a cloak. >Before, I had always had someone else make my garb, but I have decided to do >this myself. A wonderful starting project, because it is done with long straight seams, no complicated sewing tricks, and is fairly easy to make the pattern. If you are set on buying a commercial pattern, I can't help you because I don't know who would carry such a thing. If you would like to make your own pattern (following my easy directions - _easy_ honest :), send me an email, and I will dig up the pattern I have on disk at home & forward it to you. >I even went out and bought a used sewing machine, though it is >missing the needle. The lady who I bought it off of said that a missing >needle >would not be a problem--that I could go and get it replaced for minimal cost. Needles are a consumable on sewing machines, something like thread only not quite as fast. I have a small box I keep different sizes of needles in. The usual sizes are: 9 - very fine sheer cloth 11 - light weight cloth 14 - practically everything 16 - heavier weight (your cloak!) 18 - sewing a tent Then there are specialty needles of varying usefulness that are sold for leather, for silks, or sewing with multiple threads at once. Needles are quite cheap and can be bought at fabric stores, department stores, and even some grocery stores. >In any case, I think I got ripped off. Well that would depend on what kind of machine you got and how much you paid. Some of the older (ie 15-25 year old) machines are going to live forever. My Mother has an ancient Singer that will sew through anything you put in it's way. I know of many people sewing with older machines that they wouldn't give up. If the motor on your machine still runs, you probably didn't get ripped off. I'm glad you have a sewing machine and the ambition to sew for yourself. I think it is a great skill that is relatively easily mastered, and I'd like to see more people getting into it. cheers Tabitha ---------------------------------------------- Diana Parker <parkerd at mcmail.mcmaster.ca> Security Services CUC - 201 McMaster University (905) 525-9140 (x24282) From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: hand stitching documentation Date: 14 Dec 1995 10:06:11 -0500 Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA In article <4ap5gn$54k at jaxnet.jaxnet.com>, Tracy Watson <tewkes at jaxnet.com> wrote: > Does anyone know of some illustations of hand stitched seams? I'd like >to enter a piece into an Arts/Sci competition, but i'd rather use hand >stitching instead of by machine. I also need a picture of those seams, it >would be easier to copy. If anyone knows of such documentation, let me know >the title and ISBN number, so I can access it by inter library loan, if >neccessary. Thank you, > > Kathryn of Tewkesbury Probably not what you're looking for, but one of the Unicorn tapestries in the Cloisters shows a peasant with what looks like large topstitching around the neck of his shirt (black thread on white shirt). There's a photograph in a book about The Unicorn Tapestries; sorry, it's packed in a box and not readily available. -- Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net) From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: hand stitching documentation Date: 14 Dec 1995 17:07:05 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley Tracy Watson (tewkes at jaxnet.com) wrote: : Does anyone know of some illustations of hand stitched seams? I'd like : to enter a piece into an Arts/Sci competition, but i'd rather use hand : stitching instead of by machine. I also need a picture of those seams, it : would be easier to copy. If anyone knows of such documentation, let me know : the title and ISBN number, so I can access it by inter library loan, if : neccessary. Thank you, The appropriate documentation will differ depending on the precise period and location of the item in question, but the best source I know for "high medieval" English sewing is the Museum of London textiles book. Nice clear diagrams and explanations of the use to which various stitching techniques were put. ISBN 0-11-290445-9. Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn From: Kimberly <kim at inna.net> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: Sun, 5 May 1996 17:06:22 -0700 Greetings! Just a few thoughts for some of our newer members from someone who's been there, done that <grin>... Making garb for the first time can be hectic... especially if you have an event you've >just heard about< and you absolutely >have< to be there! And you've only two days to come up with something. Good news! With only a simple sewing machine, a steaming iron and Elmer's glue, you can whip out a great t-tunic that will last all season (and beyond) ----> In About 2 Hours <----! Yes, those of you who sew constantly are probably groaning at the mention of Elmer's glue, but honest, it's the best way to hold a seam without the time consuming bother of pining! Just pre-crease your seams with the iron, add a thin line of glue, then quick-dry it with the iron again, and vola! A seam that will hold long enough to get from the ironing board to the sewing machine... and unlike the conventional straight pins, it holds the seams perfectly in place! No sliding or gathering of material (which is caused by clumsy pining, like mine <sigh>). And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash out and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you double roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But for a first time attempt that is only going to get you through one event, it's one of the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick! I won't waste space here by going through all the gory details unless someone asks me to. I've been told there are several EXCELLENT sewing FAQ's on the internet, but most of the ones I've read are a little too technical for newbies and >no one< has mentioned the use of glue as a temporary holding method vs. pining. If you'd like a complete, detailed run-down (including a nifty collar pattern), e-mail me at: kim at inna.net and mention "Newbie sewing". I'll be more than happy to give you a list there! Welcome and good luck! Yours In Service, Kimberly From: jeffebear1 at aol.com (JeffEBear1) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 8 May 1996 04:06:02 -0400 Don't forget to pre-shrink your fabric! From: Doni Leamon <doeadeer at utc.campus.mci.net> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 20:25:57 -0400 If you are really pressed for time, nerves, etc. a fun alternative is called Unique Stitch. It is a permanent (no, really!) fabric glue that you apply and let cure for a few hours. My shot nerves would not allow me to fight with my sewing machine one night before an event, but I learned how to glue in *kindergarten* so I gave it a whirl. I even went swimming in it (a chiton) the next day with no problems! Just a thought when the sewing machine gremlins plague you. In service, Daine un Cerf Kingdom of Meridies From: aceia at onr.com (Aceia) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: Wed, 08 May 1996 19:13:16 +0100 Kimberly <kim at inna.net> wrote: > Yes, those of you who sew constantly are probably groaning at the >mention of Elmer's glue, but honest, it's the best way to hold a seam >without the time consuming bother of pining! Just pre-crease your seams >with the iron, add a thin line of glue, then quick-dry it with the iron >again, and vola! A seam that will hold long enough to get from the >ironing board to the sewing machine... and unlike the conventional >straight pins, it holds the seams perfectly in place! No sliding or >gathering of material (which is caused by clumsy pining, like mine ><sigh>). > > And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash out >and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you double >roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But for a first >time attempt that is only going to get you through one event, it's one of >the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick! WOW! what a wonderful idea!! I have been sewing awhile and never thought of it. I HATE pinning and usually I just don't bother which sometimes leads to uneven seams....I wonder if this would work with applique...sometimes I just hate wonder-under, always seems to end up all over my iron. Of course glue probably will to...but it should just peel off. Or for stabilizing the fabric....or for attaching thick trim that has to be hand sewn (takes me days to do...) THANKS for sharing this with me!! Sewing is fun if you know all the shortcuts! Robin Anderson of Ross Ansteorra Barony of Bryn Gwlad From: parkerd at mcmail.cis.McMaster.CA (Diana Parker) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 8 May 1996 23:28:42 -0400 Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. When you're planning your cutting layout... is your fabric wide enough for the selvedge (finished edges at the side) to be your bottom hem? or at least to cut your sleeves so the bottom of them has a finished edge? Makes it easier to turn up your fabric once instead of twice for hemming - and saves the day if you've left the garb til the last minute and have to choose between hemming & sleep. Tabitha -- Diana Parker parkerd at mcmaster.ca (905) 525-9140 (x24282) CUC - 201 Security Services McMaster University From: IVANOR at delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 11 May 1996 03:28:30 GMT Quoting aceia from a message in rec.org.sca >> And unlike using tapes and permanent glues, Elmer's will wash >out >and leave your seams soft and pliable. Now, granted, unless you >double >roll your inside seams like I do, you will get fraying! But >for a first >time attempt that is only going to get you through one >event, it's one of >the best ways I know to get a tunic done quick! >WOW! what a wonderful idea!! I have been sewing awhile and never >thought of it. I HATE pinning and usually I just don't bother which >sometimes leads to uneven seams....I wonder if this would work with >applique...sometimes I just hate wonder-under, always seems to end up Of course it will. In fact, the sewing/crafts tips programs recommend this sort of thing, though they mostly seem to be pushing things like Aleene's Tacky Glue.... But Elmer's is cheaper and definitely soluble. >all over my iron. Of course glue probably will to...but it should >just peel off. Or for stabilizing the fabric....or for attaching >thick trim that has to be hand sewn (takes me days to do...) Yup, it'll work for that, too. Just don't use it for anything that isn't washable, or you'll have to leave it in even after stitching. Carolyn Boselli ivanor at delphi.com Host of CF35..SCAdians on Delphi ivanor at localnet.com From: Kim Pollard <kim at inna.net> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 09:21:16 -0400 On Sat, 18 May 1996, Cennydd wrote: > Could anyone please help me with tips on how to do dagging so all the > edges don't fray--were the edges finished in any way? And were the > edges of fabric in slashed sleeves, etc. finished? __________ I don't know how those of the middle ages delt with frayed edges, but I've found the best way to "dagg" is to: a) draw out your pattern first on the fabric leaving roughly 1/2" between the daggs for the thread to hold onto once they are cut and flipped. b) pin (or glue) another piece of fabric behind the first c) carefully sew along your lines... leave "points" in the ends of your daggs so they will flip easier V V | || || if this realy confuses you, wait | || || until I get my newbie sewing site up \___/\___/\ d) once all the sewing is done, cut out the daggs leaving at least 1/4" trim to leave the thread something to hold hold onto once it's been washed. e) flip the fabric right-side out and iron flat. You may wish to re-sew along the edge again to keep it flat permanently, but that is not really necessary. Just sew the end of the backing shut (flipping that over as well to keep >it< from fraying) and volia! You have daggs! Kimberly From: brettwi at ix.netcom.com(Brett Williams) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 19 May 1996 15:50:15 GMT Cennydd <mite1 at aloha.net> writes: >Could anyone please help me with tips on how to do dagging so all the >edges don't fray--were the edges finished in any way? And were the >edges of fabric in slashed sleeves, etc. finished? In period, dagged fabric was more tightly beaten in the weaving process than what is done by machine these days and didn't need edge finishes when pinked or dagged (see the fragment of dagging in HMSO "Medieval Textiles". I've finished dagged edges in three different ways, none of which are (so far in my searchings) documentably period techniques*: 1. Fray Check. This stuff is a chemical preparation found on the notion wall in any decent sewing shop that, when dribbled on the cut edge of a fabric, will prevent fraying of any kind. It is poisonous, nasty to breathe and will stain the edge of the fabric a tad darker in hue than what it originally was. Since you're talking as if your fraying is after the fact, this might be a way to save your present garment. But, in the future: 2. Before cutting the dag pattern, travel over the proposed edge of the dags with two journeys of dense zig-zag stitching with your machine, either in matching or contrasting thread. Fray Check is a nice reinforcement here. 3. Line your dagged edges with a contrasting color: e.g., if your houppelande is black velveteen and your cotehardie underneath is white, how about a nice deep red for a sleeve lining? Hope this helps. ciorstan *who would love to hear otherwise concerning method number three. :) From: jeffebear1 at aol.com (JeffEBear1) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 23 May 1996 13:50:37 -0400 Cennydd <mite1 at aloha.net> writes: >Could anyone please help me with tips on how to do dagging so all the >edges don't fray--were the edges finished in any way? And were the >edges of fabric in slashed sleeves, etc. finished? I roll or line all my dagging. I either line my slashes or (i know it's not so period ) use a LOOOOOOG button hole stich cut it open and WALAH finished edges. just use buttons or ties where you want them to close. Fake puffs are easier then tring to keep your shirt pulled out evenly all day! Lady M From: Deloris Booker <dbooker at freenet.calgary.ab.ca> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 15:35:29 -0600 Organization: Calgary Free-Net My Lord/Lady : re dags and frays 2 possible sollutions are : for dags : line them with a contrasting fabric - to do this, place the flat sleeeve ( unsewn) on the lining fabric, right sides to gether, ; pin the peices firmly and frequently. Then using a tailors pencil, draw the outline of the dags on one or the other piece. Then sew the pieces together on the line. THEN and only then, cut out the design. Turn, Iron , attach lining to the top edge, and proceed. for dags or slashes, use a fairly firm, closely woven fabric and cut the dags or slashes using pinking shears (period to at least the elizabethans.) - this works really well on felt-type fabrics, etc. Aldreada of the Lakes From: excmairi at aol.com (EXCMairi) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sewing Garb tips for newbies Date: 24 May 1996 12:41:30 -0400 1. If you are going to line dags, remember to use the highest number of stitches per inch (smallest stitch length on your machine) that you can -- it helps especially if you are doing a dag with any kind of special shape, like an oak leaf (sound like an answer from experience??). 2. For simple patterns like a monk's robe, don't forget the costume section of the mainline pattern companies, like Simplicity and McCalls. Both have a nativity pattern that is a simple tunic-like garment. 3. If you're new to the idea of a sewing machine and are getting frustrated with it, don't be intimidated by hand-sewing the garment together (wait, come back, don't be scared!!). A long, simple running stitch - - - - - - - will hold a garment together surprisingly well. If you can't get it straight, mark it with chalk or a pencil and a ruler, then pick up a needle and thread (it doesn't even have to be a fine needle). And you can do it on a train on the way to your mundane job - other riders tend to stay our of your way if you stab the needle in and out with a Sense of Purpose! Besides, it tends to impress people who think that making it by hand automatically makes it "period"... Baroness Mairi ni Raghaillaigh. From: gunnora at bga.com (Gunnora Hallakarva) To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:24:12 -0500 Subject: Computer Programs for Costume Designers Here's another of those interesting tidbits from the Historical Costuming newsgroup. =================================== Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:49:07 -0500 From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <P_SHERYL at KCPL.LIB.MO.US> Subject: Re: "Costume Design for Dummies" >I am a theatre tech student majoring in costuming, and have a question no >one has been able to give me a clear answer on. Sometime back I heard a >rumour that there was an IBM program out there that could be used for >designing costume. Sharon, There are a number of software packages designed for the home sewer that might work. Check out http://www.hk.super.net/~rlowe/sew.html It's a page listing most of these packages with comments on them & links to places where you can download free demos of them. If you are specifically looking for something designed for the theatre, then I only know of one software package. It's called "B Famous on Stage". The web page for it is http://www.newstuff.com/ I haven't used any of them myself, but I imagine that at least one of these programs would be useful to you. To the person who mentioned "Fittingly Sew": I was under the impression that the company that developed this is no longer selling it. Did another company pick it up? I was thinking about buying it, but they discontinued it before I could make up my mind. :( Sheryl J. Nance-Durst Kansas City MO Public Library p_sheryl at kcpl.lib.mo.us Gunnora Hallakarva Herskerinde Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 19:53:42 -0700 From: Tom & Sara Moore <tnsmoore at wolfenet.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Basic Sewing Book Hi there! My husband, Tom, and I have been lurking for a while now, enjoying all the great info and references on this list. Although we have aspirations to make some really complicated garb, there's a great book I just discovered at the Seattle Public Library called, "The Illustrated Hassle-Free Make Your Own Clothes Book." I'm not kidding about the title. It's by Sharon Rosenberg and Joan Wiener, written by a couple of self-styled "hippie chicks" and published in 1971. There are some great, clear directions for simple t-tunics to t-dresses, skirts, pants, waistcoats, floor-length waistcoats (surcoats to us) as well as many easy neckline, collar and sleeve variations. This is from a duo that says "We think clothes should be fairly inexpensive and groovy to look at." I'm going to see if I can find a copy of this book to buy. I'm sure it's out of print. It was published by Avenel Books, a division of Crown Publishers, Inc. Anyway, if you can find a copy, it's a great resource, especially for beginners. Thought I'd pass it on. Guiliana and Sandro Barony of Madrone, An Tir (Sara and Tom - Seattle, WA) tnsmoore at wolfenet.com Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 09:11:32 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Help! Cartridge pleating... Jennifer E. Jobst wrote: > A friend of mine is interested in making a cartridge pleated skirt. > Unfortunately, my persona is 1300 and thus I know absolutely nothing on > how to go about doing this. Could someone send me an explanation? I'd > really appreciate it! > > Jennifer Jobst I'd always thought that cartridge pleating was a sewing technique best explained 'in the cloth', so to speak, but I'll try nonetheless. O, for a way to transmit a simple graphic other than bad ASCII art! Cartridge pleating is a period technique for firmly gathering gazillions of yardage to a smaller dimension that must be performed by hand. For making a cartridge-pleated skirt, for example: Make a strong waistband, fully finished, in final measurement. Prepare one's skirt pieces by stitching together. Leave upper skirt edge unfinished for now (I've heard that 4-1 width to waistband ratio is good, but more is better); finish seams and closure edges. Fold over a heading on the waistband edge of the skirt pieces, raw edge to the inside and unexposed; the header should be at least an inch wide to provide some stiffness. Press into place; whipstitch edge to skirt body. One wants an invisible header-to-skirt-body join here. Using waxed, strong thread (carpet thread is good!), run a parallel set of gathering threads along the length of the header, several sets will be necessary. Each stitch needs to be exactly even in width; the next line of stitching needs to be identical to its neighboring line of stitching. Pull the ends of your parallel stitches to gather in the skirt (matching the waistband, of course) and knot the threads firmly. You will end up with a row of even tubes of relatively stiff cloth. Now's the hard part to explain: Using STRONG thread again, whipstitch/catch the exact highest point/top of each tube, right sides as one would see the final garment, to the waistband. Essentially the header tubes are butted to the waistband. Once stitched, turn the waistband over and catchstitch the lowest portion of the tube to the waistband, butting that portion together. So, your cartridge pleats now stick out at a perpendicular angle to the waistband. Since there's a few rows of gathering stitches holding the tubes together, the pleat extends some small distance away from the waistband, forming neat pleats. Hope this helps-- I've done this twice and it works! Cartridge pleating is a distinctive gathering technique; once you see it it looks unlike any other. ciorstan Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 10:07:04 -0800 From: Chris Laning <claning at igc.apc.org> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Cartridge pleating A friend of mine passed on a neat trick for making the preliminary gathers easier. Instead of folding over a self-heading on the skirt pieces, face them with a strip of checked gingham. Then just use the checks as your gathering guide, and your multiple rows of gathers will be all the same and perfectly matched. (The needle has to go in and out at exactly the same vertical spot in every row in order for the cartridge pleats to form.) ____________________________________________________________ O Chris Laning | <CLaning at igc.apc.org> + Davis, California Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 10:12:41 -0400 From: "lwperkins" <lwperkins at snip.net> To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu> Subject: Re: Clothing Patterns I have a friend who swears by the clear plastic picnic tablecloths that you get at dollar stores--she uses a Sharpie marker to trace the pattern onto the plastic, (and since it's clear that's easy to do); the tablecloth plastic is also flexible enough to be folded and refolded without cracking. --Ester du Bois lwperkins at snip.net From: "Perkins" <lwperkins at snip.net> Subject: Re: [Q]s about Linen/seams Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Date: 30 Jul 97 14:48:48 GMT > Kirrily Robert (kirrily at mira.net) wrote: > : I know that wool cloth in SCA period was fulled/felted so that the raw > : edges did not need the same degree of finishing as modern weaves. However, > : I have seen no references to how other fabrics were finished. Are there > : any *historically accurate* ways of finishing the edges of linen, silk, > : or other looser-weave fabrics? Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn wrote about doing an overcast stitch, which is my preference, but if you're doing Tudor I read that Walter Fyshe ( Elizabeth I's tailor) ordered candles in bulk to use as a seam edge controller on silk and velvet. Early Fray-Check! Unfortunately this takes a bit of practice-I lit a sample piece of silk on fire with the candle while I was messing with it, peering at the edge I had just done. Good thing Walter wasn't my boss. --Ester du Bois From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: [Q]s about Linen Date: 30 Jul 1997 05:35:42 GMT Organization: University of California at Berkeley Kirrily Robert <kirrily at mira.net> wrote: >As a kid, I was taught something that my grandmother called "french seams" >which involved putting the fabric wrong sides together, sewing the seam, >then trimming very close to the stitching, turning it inside out, and >sewing hte seam again. This gave a sort of narrow roll of fabric along >each seam which, while ravel-proof, can be uncomfortably bulky in some >places like the underarms, and takes *ages* to do by hand. I have never figured out the point of those. A flat-fell seam, however, lies flat on either side and looks finished on either side--to the extent that I have occasionally put on a dress with flat-felled seams inside out, and worn it out in public, and not noticed it was inside out till hours later. (You have to look closely at the hem....) So I do flat-fell seams on all my clothing, medieval and mundane. Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin Dorothy J. Heydt Mists/Mists/West Albany, California PRO DEO ET REGE djheydt at uclink (My account might go away at any moment; if I vanish, I haven't died.) From: priest at NOSPAMvassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: [Q]s about Linen Date: 30 Jul 1997 15:17:09 GMT Organization: Vassar College Greeting from Thora Sharptooth! Kenrick (kirrily at mira.net) asked: >I know that wool cloth in SCA period was fulled/felted so that the raw >edges did not need the same degree of finishing as modern weaves. However, >I have seen no references to how other fabrics were finished. Are there >any *historically accurate* ways of finishing the edges of linen, silk, >or other looser-weave fabrics? Yes, lots! To begin with, not all wool cloth in period was heavily fulled or felted, especially before about the twelfth century. So ravelly edges were a problem on all sorts of textiles. In the tenth century Viking context alone, there are extant examples of several types of edge finishes: flat-felled (several variants), hemmed, rolled, bound, overcast, decorative overcast, and (as Tangwystl points out) one that looks like a French seam. Generally flat-felled seams were used on linens, undergarments, and lightweight fabrics, with the varieties of overcasting reserved for heavier and wool fabrics. Linens were frequently hemmed with a double fold, wools with a single fold. Rolled hems were usually found at the edges of lightweight silk fabrics. Bound edges involved taking a strip of grain-cut (i.e., not bias-cut) lightweight textile and enclosing the raw edge of a heavier textile with it, much as bias tape is used today, and with a similar decorative effect stemming from the contrast of texture and color. For book references, see the Penelope Walton (1989), Elizabeth Heckett (1987), and Inga Ha"gg (1984) citations in my bibliography of textile sources, available at: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/textilebiblio.html ************************************************************************* Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth priest at vassar.edu Frostahlid, Austrriki Gules, three square weaver's tablets in bend Or http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html ************************************************************************* Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 00:51:42 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Pattern sloper webpage! Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh! (ciorstan waves hands madly in air) I just found an interactive web page that will produce men's and women's slopers from measurements! Take a look at: http://www.panix.com/~aqn/tailoring/drafting/index.html I haven't tried it out yet, but since the premise of the women's sloper insists on accurate measurements over foundation garments, what about trying on one's Elizabethan or Tudor corset and plugging in the measurements? The possibilities... using a tightish kirtle for an undergarment, plugging in *those* measurements, swivel out the (possible) darts, slash and add seam allowances for a 10-gore dress? ciorstan (mentally hunting for rings to finish the lacing holes on her corset to complete the first experiment above...will report back with results eventually!) Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 17:03:07 -0500 From: pnomail at bratshb.uwc.edu To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Pattern sloper webpage! >what is a sloper? a basic pattern for which to draft many different things >off of? a specific garment? >(cool web sight- though I do not have a tape measure at work) >-brid A sloper is a specific and basic fitting pattern, also called a toile. It contains the minimum wearing ease for a garment. The standard sloper pattern for women is a long sleeved dress with bust and waist darts in front and shoulder and waist darts in the back. The sleeves have two darts. The skirt part has 4 darts in front and 4 again in back, or two in each quadrant. It is used for fitting and design. If your waist measures 29" (or 23") and the pattern is for 27", you need to alter the pattern to get the correct fit. The sloper lets you know what alterations you need to make in a fashion garment. I have not been to this web site, but it sounds really cool. If it does what I think it does, then by plugging in your basic measurements it will give you a basic fitting shell that basically fits. (Any measurement they consider to be standard, might need alteration. Big or small bones affect the wrist measurement. You would then use this pattern as the base for drafting patterns that fit you. All you would have to do is add "design" details, like full sleeves and skirts. To use it well, check out books in the library or pattern catalogues. (The sloper is the really strange dress pinned in the back and pictured in gingham.) They would have instructions and good pictures. A darted sloper can be converted to princess seams if so desired. If I can help further, please feel free to contact me directly, or on the list. DJ on her husband's account Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 14:57:02 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Pattern sloper webpage! Marisa Herzog wrote: > what is a sloper? a basic pattern for which to draft many different things > off of? a specific garment? > (cool web sight- though I do not have a tape measure at work) > -brid It can be both. Ideally I'd love to have a basic sloper of my measurements with mundane underpinnings, then a sloper for each of the various costume periods I like. I'm a child of the sixties-- 1360, 1260, 1560...(cackle) A sloper, specifically, is a customized dingus (love that all purpose word!) that represents an individual's measurements translated into an extremely basic flat pattern. It is usually a simple garment made out of woven gingham (allows the seamster to fit precisely, on the cloth's grain), like a shell-style dress with a waist seam, bodice darts and a back zip (look in the back of McCalls, Butterick or Vogue for an example) So, a bodice sloper made to your measurements taken over a specific undergarment, will produce a specific garment tailored just for you. It is a tailoring technique used to produce custom patterns-- pattern companies use slopers drawn from a certain set of measurements to produce their commercial patterns. I won't get into reviews of individual pattern companies' slopers here-- that's a whole 'nother subject. Once a seamster knows how to perform alterations, changing seam lines and eliminating darts is simple stuff. Having a sloper that conforms to one's individual body, IMHO, is a wonderful tool for someone to use to create their own patterns, so it logically follows, I hope, that being able to insert one's measurements to a computer program would be a Very Useful Thing! ciorstan Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 23:20:19 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Pattern sloper webpage! And this is addressed to everyone contemplating the sloper engine-- and is something I thought of a little while ago and promptly smacked my head. Bad ciorstan, no bisquit! Please don't take the measurements yourself. Have someone else do it for you. The act of lifting one's arms to twist the measuring tape around yourself will subtly distort your measurements and thusly distort the finished sloper. If all else fails, your web access is at work and your sacrificial vict-- helper, yeah, helper! is at home, print the page, take the measurement requirements home and have Your Beloved do them. You'll be happiest with the results! ciorstan From: "Morgan E. Smith" <mesmith at freenet.calgary.ab.ca> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Questions on Velvet Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 07:30:27 -0600 Organization: Calgary Free-Net As an addendum: The pattern layout in Janet Arnold's book on Rennaissance costuming (forget which one exactly) shows that period seamstresses were more concerned with making the darn dress than with getting the nap to all go one way. Some parts are just pieced in on one gown, clearly with the nap going the "wrong" way, which probably means that under candle illumination, the difference was not as noticable, or that they simply didn't care about this as much as they cared about getting the dress made! Morgan the Unknown Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 08:29:31 -0400 (EDT) From: LadyEirinn at aol.com To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Pattern sloper webpage/Duct tape double Has anyone seen this webpage? http://pw2.netcom.com/~leahna/DuctTapeDouble.html Basically, it's a homemade dressmaker's dummy that takes all you lumps & bumps (and corseted figures, if you wanted!) into consideration. I'm really excited to try it! Bersides, even if it doesn't work exacly how I wanted, I haven't blown a ton of $$$$ on a dressmaker dummy that really doesn't look like me! IMHO, they all look like "Barbie". Eirinn Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 07:46:37 From: Nancee Beattie <nbeattie at blackcat.dunklin.k12.mo.us> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: inserting gussets/gores >Does anyone have tips on inserting gore or gussets into a center panel >without a center seam? I can insert them into a seam, and it looks great. > However, I can't seem to get them into a panel. Please help. Has anyone >seen instructions in a book (maybe it would be easier to understand)? > > Rosamund von Bardowiek I do this all the time with great success, but it is really hard to explain. I wish you could come to my house for the afternoon--I'd show you. I'll try to explain. Pin one side of the gore in place. Sew from the hem to the point of the triangle, with the gore on top, and leave the needle in place. Lift the presser foot. The main garment must then be swung around under the needle until the second side of the gore and the second side of the slit in the main garment line up. Now, sew from the point back down to the hem. When you are finished, go back and snip the top of the slit all the way down to the seam line to reduce puckering. Does this help. It takes practice--so try it several times on scrap fabric. Meredydd Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 09:59:40 -0600 From: <pnomail at bratshb.uwc.edu> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: inserting gussets/gores Dear Rosamund, Merdydd gave you the sewing book way (read correct) way of putting in a gore. I'm impressed with anyone who can do it that way. There is another way. It works, therefore it's also correct, but its one of those techniques that are, well, aah, too "overly inventive" to be included in a sewing book. I run into trouble at the very top, because I don't have enough seam allowance to sew comfortably on my sewing machine. I install a false seam allowance. Now that I've confused you totally, let me continue. Mark the top of the gusset on the main garment. Sew a trapezoid shaped scrap of fabric to the pointy top part on the right side. The scrap should be about 4" long. Sew the sewing lines of the gusset. You should have an inverted v shape. If you take one or two stitches across the top of the point truncating it, the corner will actually turn better than if you come to a sharp point. Cut the fabric up to the reinforced triangle. (Fray check the point) Turn the scrap to the wrong side and press so the scrap doesn't show. Now sew the gusset in using the extra fabric from the scrap as seam allowance. (it easier to control than that little itty bitty tiny edge) Sew to the top of the point, (on top of the stitching line from the scrap) and stop. Do the same for the other side, or sew across the top and sew back down. My preference is to sew each side separately. Sewing widest to narrowest doesn't make the fabric fray as easily, and I find it easier to control stretch. Trim the scrap down, it's served its purpose. Good luck. Drucilla Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 12:12:17 -0600 (CST) From: "Donna Holsten" <holsten at nature.Berkeley.EDU> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: RE: inserting gussets/gores In message Sun, 23 Nov 1997 18:04:05 -0500 (EST), <Eddiediana at aol.com> writes: > Does anyone have tips on inserting gore or gussets into a center panel > without a center seam? If I'm machine sewing an outfit with a center gore, I pin the gore into place, sew up to two inches from the point, and hand-sew the point. I find it *hugely* less frustrating than trying to do the point on the machine. I can never get it to look right by machine. At the very top of the slit, I usually end up with *no* seam allowance (on the center panel--there is still a s.a. on the gore piece) and so will often stitch a reinforcing "bar" (usually I do a triangle) right at the top point, where the fabric might tend to tear or ravel or otherwise come apart. The first couple I did, I got a lovely little pucker in the fabric at the point, but each time it got better and better. Really, other than patience and taking very small stitches, there aren't any "tricks" that I can think of. Joanna Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 23:17:16 -0500 From: Kapaj <kapaj at webspan.net> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: inserting gussets/gores I sew the point of the gore in first by hand, I find that it gives me more control. If you want to try sewing from the point first here is how I do it: (for example sake, say you are using 1/2 inch seam allowances) Start with your needle inserted into the point of the gore at the point that is 1/2 inch in from each cut edge (wish I could draw a picture here) with right sides together insert the needle (still in the point of the gore) 1/2 inch from the cut center of the opening for the gore. Match up the cut edge of one side of the gore and one side of the opening sew about an inch, turn and sew back to the point. Now line up the other side and sew about an inch again. The rest of each seam can be sewn by machine. Clip the material of the main piece upto the stitching at the point. You have to cut very close to the stitching line to ensure that the seam lie flat. Make sure you do not cut through your stitching! Hope this helps Lady Jacqueline Helene Loisel Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 11:02:51 -0800 (PST) From: Jenn <audacity at teleport.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions >If you were to help a friend (new to sewing, but really wants to learn) shop for a sewing machine, what features would you consider an absolute must, and what features would you consider nice to have, but not srictly necessary. Which of these features would change from one category to the other depending on whether the person expects to do only historic costuming or also mundane? Some necessary things for a beginner sewer...easy to thread. My sewing machine has a "three second thread," you just push the spool on, click it down into a little thingy, and then it has a few sunken areas that you look it into, and then you just have to do the hard part, getting the thread through the eye of the needle. If it weren't for threading the needle, it'd take me less than a second to sew. Also, you'll want something that allows feet to be changed easily, and a sewing machine that has both auto and manual tension. And tell your friend to test each feature, DON'T just have the sales person demonstrate. If they won't allow you to try it, they don't deserve your business. Also, buy the best machine you can afford that fits your needs. You don't necessarily need a machine that has several embroidered designs built in, but do buy the highest quality machine you can. You can buy a cheap machine for $50 and replace it in a year, or you can spend $200 on a machine and have it for life. >For those of you with permanent sewing rooms or areas, What is your favorite thing about how you have your sewing room/area set up? A good thing is to have a window (or several), but with heavy curtains, as well as good lighting. You need heavy curtains so that you can block out natural light and work from artificial, and try to have more than one light, ie, a light in the ceiling and a lamp by your sewing machine. Some people prefer an overhead light source, others prefer one close ot the level they're working on. DON'T keep your sewing stuff in your bedroom, if you do, you'll associate your bedroom with wakeful activities, making it harder to sleep. Keep decorations to a minimum, and make sure you have a comfortable chair to sit in while sewing. >Do you pin your fabric by placing the pins perpendicular or parallel to the cut edge? Do you sew over the pins, or do you remove them just before you get to them? Why? When I sew over pins, I place them perpendicular to the fabric. If I remove them after cutting, I place them parallel, so that cutting is easier. Generally I place them perpendicular after cutting, ie, when piecing stuff together, parallel is for cutting. If I only have rather thick pins, I remove them right before they go under the foot, I HAVE had a few bent needles cause it hit a pin (generally they just slide right off). ************************************************************* * Jenn Reed * Today is the Tomorrow * * audacity at teleport.com * You Dreamed of Yesterday * ************************************************************* * Shire of Stromgard / Barony of Three Mountains - An Tir * * Vancouver, Washington / Portland, Oregon - USA * ************************************************************* Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:03:57 -0500 (EST) From: Carol Thomas <scbooks at neca.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions >If you were to help a friend (new to sewing, but really wants to learn) shop for a sewing machine, what features would you consider an absolute must, and what features would you consider nice to have, but not srictly necessary. Which of these features would change from one category to the other depending on whether the person expects to do only historic costuming or also mundane? I picked out my machine (many years ago) based on Consumer Reports. If they are still rating sewing machines from time to time, they usually provide a lot of useful pros and cons. I am not a highly skilled sewer, but checking their ratings prevented my buying a machine that jams as soon as lint gets any where near it. If you can speak to people who repair machines, they probably can tell you which machines are troublesome, which are not. >When is pinking fabric appropriate? When the Laurels are nowhere around. Pinking helps on fabrics such as cotton, that fray a bit. Linen frays so badly that zigzagg stitching the edges of each piece may save a lot of annoyance later. >For those of you without permanent sewing rooms or areas, How do you >organize your supplies and equipment? Organize? What's that? >Do you pin your fabric by placing the pins perpendicular or parallel to the >cut edge? Do you sew over the pins, or do you remove them just before you >get to them? Why? I put the pins in perpendicular, and have them stick out so I can pull them easily. I may sew over them if it is wool and I'm not worried about how it comes out. (My machine will sometimes hit the pin with the needle, making a mess.) If it is thin material and appearance is important, I pull them just before the needle. When sewing something eased or gathered, I stop just as it gets to the needle, pull pin, make sure both pieces of cloth are sitting right, and start again slowly. Lady Carllein Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:18:44 -0800 From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions Irene leNoir wrote: > So, here is the latest installment of questions. > > (Just to clarify: I am not asking most of these questions because I am a beginner sewer and do not know the answers or have an opinion. I am asking them to see what other people's answers and opinons are.) > > If you were to help a friend (new to sewing, but really wants to learn) shop for a sewing machine, what features would you consider an absolute must, and what features would you consider nice to have, but not srictly necessary. Which of these features would change from one category to the other depending on whether the person expects to do only historic costuming or also mundane? Relevant to my situation, I don't necessarily think that fancy features is synonymous with functional. I'm happy with something that does an automatic buttonhole, some form of zigzag and overcast for seam finishing and reverses with the push of a button. That's pretty uncomplicated. If I wanted Real Speed from a machine, I'd buy a serger. > What are your favorite specialized sewing machine presser feet? A walking foot. > For those of you with permanent sewing rooms or areas, What is your > favorite thing about how you have your sewing room/area set up? > For those of you without permanent sewing rooms or areas, How do you > organize your supplies and equipment? It's called the Closet From Hell. I have a set of those cheezy chipboard drawers full of the Notion Department (who says I might not need something at 0400 on a Thursday morning?), with cloth stacked up on top. The cloth is guaranteed to fall out on the head of anyone other than myself who opens the closet door. This is highly useful with small children in the house-- that'll teach 'em to stay outta the closet! :) > Do you pin your fabric by placing the pins perpendicular or parallel to > the cut edge? Do you sew over the pins, or do you remove them just before > you get to them? Why? Assuming I use them, I place them perpendicular to the stitching line. I don't sew over pins, having dulled/bent/broken two too many needles in my reprehensible youth. Sewing over a pin will dull one's needle anyway, which can lead to a burr-- and if one is sewing something relatively delicate, a burred needle will damage the fabric. Needles are designed to either pierce fabric or push aside threads (ball point). Something with a burr will tend to catch threads, and the very motion of the needle will pull warp/weft as it's pushed/pulled out of the fabric. That's an effect I really don't need. ciorstan Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:26:14 -0700 From: "Rebecca Mikkelsen" <RMikkelsen at mail.lhs.logan.k12.ut.us> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions > For those of you with permanent sewing rooms or areas, What is your favorite > thing about how you have your sewing room/area set up? I have a large dining-room-size table for cutting fabric on. One of those cardboard grid cutting boards fits on it. My fabric is sorted according to color, use, type, project, etc. in photocopier paper boxes (These boxes are just the right size to put all your project materials together. They are sturdy with a lid and stack very nicely. I work in an office and can get all I want, but check at a copy store to see if you could get some) I taped a "ziploc" bag to the end of each box with a little snip of whatever fabric is in there. When I want something, I know exactly where to look. You MUST have an ironing board and a good iron (if you forget to turn it off like me, get one with an automatic shut-off) Pressing hams are really nice but not mandatory. Lighting is very important. I have a lamp on the sewing table and one on the cutting table, two overhead lights, and a window. A full-length mirror. A closet or clothes rack for hanging works-in-progress. I have children who love to sew, so I have a box that all the scraps go into. They know that they can have anything in that box for their projects without asking. Scraps are also good for stuffing things (peascod bellies, headrolls . . .) and more period than fiberfill! <g> Make a fabric sampler for when you teach newbies about which fabrics they should look for when fabric shopping. Also, there is a church in our area that makes quilts and another that makes rag dolls for humanitarian purposes. Check in your area for an organization that could use your scraps. Recently our shire chose a shire bard and made a patchwork cloak for him/her to wear. Anyone else recycle their scraps? Rebecca Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:04:38 -0700 From: Nancy Lynch <lughbec at info2000.net> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions > Do you pin your fabric by placing the pins perpendicular or parallel to the > cut edge? Do you sew over the pins, or do you remove them just before you > get to them? Why? Pins go perpendicular to fabric, heads so that they can be pulled as you sew with your pincushion easily accessible to your right hand. I generally have pins a palm width apart. For the most part this allows you to keep sewing without stopping, unless you need to adjust fabric. I worked professionally in an upscale fashion design shop and we were prohibited from sewing over pins. The likelihood of breaking, bending, burring needles was a time and money waster, but the slight possibility of slamming a pin down onto your bobbin hook and harming the machine made the management adamant about this policy. We were under strict orders to never sew over pins, so I got rather anal about that.:) Still seems like a good idea. Lughbec Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:27:55 -0700 From: Nancy Lynch <lughbec at info2000.net> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More Sewing Questions > Do you pin your fabric by placing the pins perpendicular or parallel to the > cut edge? Do you sew over the pins, or do you remove them just before you > get to them? Why? Another bit on pins... spend the extra and get good pins! I find that plastic headed pins are happy to melt with your iron and the metal is inferior in them and they get dull and nasty, sometimes immediately. Also the cheap pins