piled-fabrics-msg - 1/6/98 ਀ഊPeriod piled fabrics. Those fabrics with inserted fibers or tufts of ਀甀渀猀瀀甀渀 昀甀爀⸀ഊ ਀一伀吀䔀㨀 匀攀攀 愀氀猀漀 琀栀攀 昀椀氀攀猀㨀 琀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 瘀攀氀瘀攀琀ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 氀漀漀洀猀ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 琀愀瀀攀猀琀爀椀攀猀ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 眀攀愀瘀椀渀最ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 昀攀氀琀椀渀最ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 猀椀氀欀ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 欀渀椀琀琀椀渀最ⴀ洀猀最Ⰰ 洀攀爀挀栀ⴀ昀愀戀爀椀挀猀ⴀ洀猀最⸀ഊ ਀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀ഊNOTICE - ਀ഊThis file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. ਀ഊThis file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org ਀ഊI have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. ਀ഊThe comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. ਀ഊPlease respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). ਀ഊThank you, ਀    䴀愀爀欀 匀⸀ 䠀愀爀爀椀猀                  䄀䬀䄀㨀  吀䠀䰀漀爀搀 匀琀攀昀愀渀 氀椀 刀漀甀猀ഊ Stefan at florilegium.org ਀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀ഊ ਀䐀愀琀攀㨀 匀甀渀Ⰰ ㈀㄀ 䐀攀挀 ㄀㤀㤀㜀 ㈀㈀㨀㐀㜀㨀㄀㌀ ⴀ　㠀　　ഊFrom: Brett and Karen Williams ਀吀漀㨀 猀挀愀ⴀ愀爀琀猀 愀琀 爀愀瘀攀渀⸀挀挀⸀甀欀愀渀猀⸀攀搀甀ഊSubject: Re: Error Condition Re: Fake fur ਀ഊScolace wrote: ਀㸀 嘀氀愀搀 挀漀洀洀攀渀琀攀搀 漀渀 琀栀攀 䔀愀氀搀漀爀洀攀爀攀 氀椀猀琀Ⰰഊ> ਀㸀 㸀 匀礀氀愀爀搀 眀愀猀渀✀琀 愀搀瘀漀挀愀琀椀渀最 琀栀攀 戀愀渀渀椀渀最 漀昀 昀愀氀猀攀 昀甀爀Ⰰ 漀爀 挀栀攀愀瀀ഊ> > non-period material. ਀㸀ഊ> I have heard rumours to the effect that fake fur was exported in ਀㸀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 昀爀漀洀 漀渀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 渀漀爀搀椀挀 挀漀甀渀琀爀椀攀猀 ⸀ ⸀ ⸀ഊ> ਀㸀 㨀㨀栀甀渀琀猀 琀栀爀漀甀最栀 攀愀猀礀ⴀ琀漀ⴀ昀椀渀搀 瀀愀瀀攀爀猀 琀漀 渀漀 愀瘀愀椀氀㨀㨀ഊ> ਀㸀 䤀 琀栀椀渀欀 椀琀 开洀椀最栀琀开 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 漀渀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 甀渀椀渀搀攀砀攀搀 猀渀椀瀀瀀攀琀猀 椀渀ഊ> the Known World Handbook (a wonderfully handy source, but I fear ਀㸀 䤀 挀愀渀渀漀琀 挀爀攀搀椀琀 洀漀猀琀 漀昀 椀琀 愀猀 洀漀爀攀 琀栀愀渀 栀攀愀爀猀愀礀⤀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀ഊ> country may have been Holland or Denmark . . . ਀㸀ഊ> Does anybody have any idea whereof I speak? ਀㸀ഊ> If so . . . any mre details? Obviously, it wouldn't be the ਀㸀 愀挀爀礀氀椀挀 猀琀甀昀昀 漀渀攀 猀攀攀猀 椀渀 猀栀漀瀀猀 琀漀搀愀礀 ⸀ ⸀ ⸀ 愀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀琀攀氀礀ഊ> uneducated guess would say it might be fur hairs woven into a ਀㸀 渀漀爀洀愀氀椀猀栀 挀氀漀琀栀 ⸀ ⸀ ⸀ 戀甀琀 栀攀礀Ⰰ 琀栀椀猀 开椀猀开 琀栀攀 瀀攀爀猀漀渀 眀栀漀 挀愀渀✀琀ഊ> even remember her source :-) ਀㸀ഊ> Scolace ਀㸀 䠀漀瀀椀渀最 猀漀洀攀戀漀搀礀 欀渀漀眀猀 愀戀漀甀琀 眀栀愀琀 猀栀攀✀猀 琀愀氀欀椀渀最Ⰰഊ> since she clearly does not ;-) ਀ഊ(shuffle-thump) A stack of books falls over... ਀ഊThere are several sources. For purposes of this discussion, I'm leaving ਀漀甀琀 洀攀渀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 琀栀攀 洀漀爀攀 琀礀瀀椀挀愀氀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 漀渀攀 琀栀椀渀欀猀 漀昀 眀栀攀渀 搀椀猀挀甀猀猀椀渀最ഊpile-weave, which is a rug. ਀ഊPiled fabrics are nothing new. There are fragments of piled fabrics ਀攀砀琀愀渀琀 昀爀漀洀 一攀漀氀椀琀栀椀挀 匀眀椀猀猀 瘀椀氀氀愀最攀猀 愀渀搀 㔀琀栀 䐀礀渀愀猀琀礀 䔀最礀瀀琀⸀ 倀漀氀礀渀攀猀椀愀渀猀ഊwere fond of feathers woven into their cloaks-- especially Hawaiian ਀渀漀戀椀氀椀琀礀⸀ഊ ਀倀爀椀洀愀爀礀 瀀栀礀猀椀挀愀氀 搀漀挀甀洀攀渀琀愀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 愀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 瀀椀攀挀攀 ⠀㄀　琀栀 䌀攀渀琀甀爀礀ഊScandinavian) of 'artificial fur cloth' exists as a rectangular piece of ਀眀漀漀氀 ✀昀甀爀✀ 椀渀 琀栀攀 䄀爀挀栀愀攀漀氀漀最椀猀挀栀攀猀 䰀愀渀搀攀猀洀甀猀攀甀洀 椀渀 匀挀栀氀攀猀眀椀最Ⰰ 挀愀琀愀氀漀最ഊH19, found in the Haithabu harbor excavation. It is catalog number 57 in ਀开䘀爀漀洀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 琀漀 䌀爀甀猀愀搀攀爀Ⰰ 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀 愀渀搀 䔀甀爀漀瀀攀 㠀　　ⴀ㄀㈀　　开Ⰰ 刀椀稀稀漀氀椀ഊBooks, ISBN 0-8478-1625-7, which was recently found remaindered at $20. ਀吀栀椀猀 瀀愀爀琀椀挀甀氀愀爀 戀漀漀欀 椀猀 愀 挀愀琀愀氀漀最 昀爀漀洀 愀 洀愀猀猀椀瘀攀 洀甀猀攀甀洀 攀砀栀椀戀椀琀 琀栀愀琀ഊstarted in Paris in 1992, then traveled to Berlin and Copenhagen. The ਀搀攀猀挀爀椀瀀琀椀漀渀 猀愀礀猀 椀渀 瀀攀爀琀椀渀攀渀琀 瀀愀爀琀㨀 ∀匀甀挀栀 昀愀戀爀椀挀猀 栀愀搀 洀愀渀礀 昀甀渀挀琀椀漀渀愀氀ഊadvantages, but this was not the only reason why they became popular. ਀吀栀椀猀 琀礀瀀攀 漀昀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀Ⰰ 搀礀攀搀 椀渀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀 挀漀氀漀爀猀Ⰰ 眀愀猀 愀氀猀漀 甀猀攀搀 愀猀 愀ഊsubstitute for fur by the less wealthy for various garments, and as ਀琀爀椀洀洀椀渀最猀 愀爀漀甀渀搀 琀栀攀 栀攀洀 漀爀 渀攀挀欀⸀  吀栀攀 ✀昀甀爀✀ 椀猀 漀昀琀攀渀 漀昀 愀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀ഊcolor from the rest of the garment." ਀ഊThe piece is described as a piece of cloth with an unusually heavy nap. ਀吀栀攀 戀漀漀欀 搀漀攀猀 渀漀琀 最漀 椀渀琀漀 愀渀礀 搀攀琀愀椀氀 漀渀 栀漀眀 琀栀攀 渀愀瀀 眀愀猀 昀漀爀洀攀搀Ⰰ 攀椀琀栀攀爀ഊby teasing a woolen thread after weaving as part of the finishing, or by ਀椀渀猀攀爀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 氀漀漀猀攀氀礀 猀瀀甀渀 漀爀 甀渀猀瀀甀渀 眀漀漀氀 椀渀琀漀 琀栀攀 昀攀氀氀 愀猀 琀栀攀 眀攀愀瘀攀爀 眀愀猀ഊmaking the cloth. I can give a reference to an even more obscure ਀愀爀琀椀挀氀攀Ⰰ 椀渀 䜀攀爀洀愀渀Ⰰ 椀昀 愀渀礀漀渀攀 椀猀 椀渀琀攀爀攀猀琀攀搀 椀渀 瀀甀爀猀甀椀渀最 琀栀椀猀 瀀椀攀挀攀 漀昀ഊcloth further. ਀ഊAt any rate, there is also the Irish traditional brat, of which I ਀猀甀搀搀攀渀氀礀 栀愀瘀攀 琀栀攀 猀甀猀瀀椀挀椀漀渀 洀椀最栀琀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 椀渀猀瀀椀爀攀搀 戀礀 琀栀攀 一漀爀猀攀ഊincursions into the Dublin area-- there are physical remains of two ਀䤀爀椀猀栀 挀氀漀愀欀猀Ⰰ 漀渀攀 瀀爀攀猀攀爀瘀攀搀 愀猀 愀 爀攀氀椀挀 椀渀 䈀攀氀最椀甀洀Ⰰ 愀渀漀琀栀攀爀 愀猀ഊfragments-- that are made similarly to the latter technique I describe ਀椀渀 琀栀攀 愀戀漀瘀攀 瀀愀爀愀最爀愀瀀栀⸀ 匀甀挀栀 愀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 眀漀甀氀搀 戀攀 眀攀氀氀ⴀ渀椀最栀 眀愀琀攀爀瀀爀漀漀昀Ⰰഊespecially if lanolin were left in the unspun wool. Smelly, but dry. ਀䤀爀椀猀栀 戀爀愀琀猀 愀爀攀 搀攀猀挀爀椀戀攀搀 戀礀 琀爀愀搀椀琀椀漀渀 愀猀 戀攀椀渀最 漀椀氀攀搀 愀昀琀攀爀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀琀椀漀渀Ⰰഊwhich suggests to me that perhaps the sheep-poop smell was removed, and ਀愀渀 漀椀氀 愀瀀瀀氀椀攀搀 愀昀琀攀爀 琀栀攀 昀愀挀琀 漀昀 眀攀愀瘀椀渀最⸀ഊ ਀䌀椀琀愀琀椀漀渀猀 昀漀爀 琀栀攀 戀爀愀琀 挀漀渀猀椀猀琀 漀昀㨀ഊ ਀∀䄀渀 䤀爀椀猀栀 ∀猀栀愀最最礀 瀀椀氀攀∀ 昀愀戀爀椀挀 漀昀 琀栀攀 ㄀㘀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 ⴀⴀ 愀渀 椀渀猀甀氀愀爀ഊsurvival?" by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, (p.158-168) in Archaeological ਀琀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀 椀渀 一漀爀琀栀攀爀渀 䔀甀爀漀瀀攀 㨀 爀攀瀀漀爀琀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀 㐀琀栀 一䔀匀䄀吀 匀礀洀瀀漀猀椀甀洀 ㄀⸀ⴀ㔀⸀ഊMay 1990 in Copenhagen, edited by Lise Bender Jorgensen & Elisabeth ਀䴀甀渀欀猀最愀愀爀搀⸀  䌀漀瀀攀渀栀愀最攀渀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㤀㈀⸀  ⠀吀椀搀攀渀猀 吀愀渀搀 一爀Ⰰ 㔀⤀ 㠀㜀ⴀ㠀㤀㜀㌀　ⴀ　㐀ⴀ㘀⸀ഊ ਀䴀挀䌀氀椀渀琀漀挀欀Ⰰ 䠀⸀ ㄀㤀㌀㘀㨀 ∀吀栀攀 洀愀渀琀氀攀 漀昀 匀琀⸀ 䈀爀椀最椀搀∀Ⰰ 䨀漀甀爀渀愀氀 漀昀 琀栀攀 刀漀礀愀氀ഊSociety of Antiquaries of Ireland, 66, 32-40. ਀ഊI haven't read these to date, though. ਀ഊThen, for the more later period folk, take a look at the silk and wool ਀瀀椀氀攀 昀愀戀爀椀挀猀 琀栀愀琀 洀愀欀攀 甀瀀 猀漀洀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 栀愀琀猀 椀渀 䨀愀渀攀琀 䄀爀渀漀氀搀✀猀 ∀倀愀琀琀攀爀渀猀ഊof Fashion, 15560-1620", ISBN 0-333-38284-6. Methodology of construction ਀椀猀 搀攀琀愀椀氀攀搀 愀渀搀 攀砀琀攀渀猀椀瘀攀⸀ 䄀搀洀椀琀琀攀搀氀礀 琀栀攀猀攀 琀攀挀栀渀椀焀甀攀猀 愀爀攀 昀漀爀 栀愀琀ഊconstruction. ਀ഊAnd lastly, look at the iconography for St. John the Baptist. He is ਀甀猀甀愀氀氀礀 搀攀瀀椀挀琀攀搀 椀渀 愀 猀栀愀最最礀 挀氀漀愀欀 漀昀 猀漀爀琀猀⸀ 䄀最愀椀渀Ⰰ 琀栀椀猀 椀猀 愀ഊrepresentation of a piled wool cloth used as a raincoat for one with an ਀漀甀琀搀漀漀爀 漀挀挀甀瀀愀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 猀甀挀栀 愀猀 猀栀攀瀀栀攀爀搀⸀ 匀瀀攀挀椀昀椀挀愀氀氀礀 琀愀欀攀 愀 氀漀漀欀 愀琀 瀀愀最攀ഊ50, plate 64, in Boucher's _20,000 Years of Fashion_, second edition, ਀䤀匀䈀一 　ⴀ㠀㄀　㤀ⴀ㄀㘀㤀㌀ⴀ㈀Ⰰ 愀 瀀栀漀琀漀最爀愀瀀栀 漀昀 愀渀 攀愀爀氀礀 ㄀㌀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 猀琀愀琀甀攀 漀昀 匀琀⸀ഊJohn the Baptist from the Church of Saint-Urban, in France. He is ਀挀氀攀愀爀氀礀 眀攀愀爀椀渀最 愀 洀愀渀琀氀攀 洀愀搀攀 漀昀 挀氀漀琀栀 眀椀琀栀 椀渀猀攀爀琀攀搀 眀漀漀氀 氀漀挀欀猀ⴀⴀ 椀渀ഊfact, Boucher goes into some detail of the survival of a Sumerian ਀最愀爀洀攀渀琀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 欀愀甀渀愀欀攀猀Ⰰ ✀甀渀琀椀氀 眀攀氀氀 椀渀琀漀 琀栀攀 䴀椀搀搀氀攀 䄀最攀猀✀Ⰰ 椀渀 愀ഊsubsection of an early chapter from pp. 49 through 51. ਀ഊSpeaking as one with some weaving experience, making a raincoat like ਀琀栀椀猀 眀漀甀氀搀渀✀琀 戀攀 琀漀漀 琀攀爀爀椀戀氀礀 搀椀昀昀椀挀甀氀琀Ⰰ 攀猀瀀攀挀椀愀氀氀礀 甀猀椀渀最 愀ഊwarp-weighted loom. ਀ഊciorstan ਀ഊ ਀䐀愀琀攀㨀 䴀漀渀Ⰰ ㈀㈀ 䐀攀挀 ㄀㤀㤀㜀 　㤀㨀　㠀㨀㔀㜀 ⴀ　㘀　　 ⠀䌀匀吀⤀ഊFrom: "Donna Holsten" ਀吀漀㨀 猀挀愀ⴀ愀爀琀猀 愀琀 爀愀瘀攀渀⸀挀挀⸀甀欀愀渀猀⸀攀搀甀ഊSubject: Re: Error Condition Re: Fake fur ਀ഊ> insertion of loosely spun or unspun wool into the fell as the weaver was ਀㸀 洀愀欀椀渀最 琀栀攀 挀氀漀琀栀⸀⸀⸀ഊ> ਀㸀 䄀琀 愀渀礀 爀愀琀攀Ⰰ 琀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 愀氀猀漀 琀栀攀 䤀爀椀猀栀 琀爀愀搀椀琀椀漀渀愀氀 戀爀愀琀⸀⸀⸀ഊ> ਀㸀 䄀渀搀 氀愀猀琀氀礀Ⰰ 氀漀漀欀 愀琀 琀栀攀 椀挀漀渀漀最爀愀瀀栀礀 昀漀爀 匀琀⸀ 䨀漀栀渀 琀栀攀 䈀愀瀀琀椀猀琀⸀ 䠀攀 椀猀ഊ> usually depicted in a shaggy cloak of sorts. Again, this is a ਀㸀 爀攀瀀爀攀猀攀渀琀愀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 愀 瀀椀氀攀搀 眀漀漀氀 挀氀漀琀栀 甀猀攀搀 愀猀 愀 爀愀椀渀挀漀愀琀 昀漀爀 漀渀攀 眀椀琀栀 愀渀ഊ> outdoor occupation, such as shepherd... ਀㸀ഊ> Speaking as one with some weaving experience, making a raincoat like ਀㸀 琀栀椀猀 眀漀甀氀搀渀✀琀 戀攀 琀漀漀 琀攀爀爀椀戀氀礀 搀椀昀昀椀挀甀氀琀Ⰰ 攀猀瀀攀挀椀愀氀氀礀 甀猀椀渀最 愀ഊ> warp-weighted loom. ਀ഊAnd, speaking as someone who has woven such fabric for a brat (I ਀搀漀渀✀琀 欀渀漀眀 椀昀 琀栀攀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 栀愀猀 ⨀礀攀琀⨀ 戀攀攀渀 洀愀搀攀 椀渀琀漀 愀 挀氀漀愀欀Ⰰ 琀栀漀甀最栀⸀⸀⸀⤀Ⰰഊit's not difficult at all. Time consuming, extremely. But not ਀搀椀昀昀椀挀甀氀琀⸀  䤀 愀挀琀甀愀氀氀礀 猀瀀甀渀 愀 瘀攀爀礀 氀漀漀猀攀Ⰰ 琀栀椀挀欀 礀愀爀渀 愀渀搀 挀甀琀 椀琀 椀渀琀漀ഊpieces, and inserted the pieces as I wove. The fabric ended up ਀氀漀漀欀椀渀最 ⨀瘀攀爀礀⨀ 洀甀挀栀 氀椀欀攀 愀 昀愀欀攀 猀栀攀攀瀀猀欀椀渀 爀甀最 漀爀 挀愀爀ⴀ猀攀愀琀 挀漀瘀攀爀⸀  䤀ഊimagine that after one or two wearings in the rain, it'd end up matted ਀愀渀搀 洀攀猀猀礀 愀渀搀 攀瘀攀渀 眀愀爀洀攀爀 愀渀搀 洀漀爀攀 眀愀琀攀爀ⴀ瀀爀漀漀昀 琀栀愀渀 戀攀昀漀爀攀⸀ഊ ਀䨀漀愀渀渀愀ഊ ਀㰀琀栀攀 攀渀搀㸀ഊEdited by Mark S. Harris piled-fabrics-msg Page 4 of 4 ਀ഊ