mkg-mtl-needls-art - 5/18/02

"A Way to Make Sewing Needles" by HL Suzanna the herbalist.

NOTE: See also the files: sewing-tools-msg, 8-P-Stitches-art, CMA-sew-supl-msg, 
embroidery-msg, merch-needlewk-msg, p-x-stitch-art, sewing-msg, color-a-fab-bib.

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NOTICE -

This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set 
of files, called Stefan's Florilegium. 

These files are available on the Internet at:
http://www.florilegium.org

Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author.

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be 
reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first
or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

                               Thank you,
                                    Mark S. Harris
                                    AKA:  Stefan li Rous
                                         stefan@florilegium.org
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This article was first published in December 2001, issue 10 of
"The MoAS", the Minister of Arts and Sciences Newsletter of Atenveldt.

A Way to Make Sewing Needles
by HL Suzanna the herbalist

I am used to working with wire to make jewelry, and it seemed like it
would be fun to make my own needles.  This is how I did it, and some
alternative suggestions.  Most or all the tools and supplies should be
available at a good hardware store. or possibly an auto parts store.

I use 18 gauge copper or brass wire, which you should be able to find at
the hardware store.  I have also used 20 gauge, but it is even thinner
and harder to work with.  Iron wire could also be used, but it will rust.

I cut the wire into needle lengths with a hammer and a cold chisel
(intended to cut soft metals), which is the period method.  Wire cutters
would be easier.

Then I hammered one end of the wire flat.  A small ball-peen or regular
hammer works well.  It is better if the face of the hammer is nice and
smooth.  You also need a piece of heavier metal to hammer against - scrap
steel or brass works, railroad rail, or a proper anvil.  Again, it is
better if it is nice and smooth.  When you are hammering, be sure to hit
the wire with the hammer.  If you miss and hit the anvil with the hammer,
you will get dents in your anvil.

As the wire gets flatter, it also gets thinner.  This is the end for the
eye of the needle.  I used a punch to punch a small hole, and then used a
reamer (a small tapered square steel tool, which may be hard to find) to
enlarge the hole.  Sometimes this splits the eye so the needle can't be
used.  A better idea is to use a very small drill to drill the hole.  I
haven't been able to document such small drill bits in period, though.  A
friend of mine who makes tools made me a small punch to use in making the
holes in the needles.

After the eye is made in the wire, the next step is to make the point.  I
start by hammering the other end of the wire mostly flat, like I did for
the eye end.  Then I use a file (common file from the hardware store) to
file it down.  Then hammer some more, then file some more, then hammer,
until you get a nice sharp point.  The repeated hammering strengthens the
metal (which is called work-hardening) and removes the file marks so the
needle is smooth.

Once you have a nice sharp point, you may want to smooth the needle down
with sandpaper.  Use wet and dry sandpaper (the black kind) in 400 grit
(fine) then 600 grit (very fine).  If you can't find this at the hardware
store, an auto parts place will probably have it.  Now you have a needle
to use.  I would suggest making several, with slightly varying lengths
and eye holes.

You should find these work well for most embroidery on most fabrics
(possibly not on very sheer or very heavy fabrics).  I find that stitches
that are worked from top to underside, then back up, like couching, seem
to be a bit easier with these needles than running stitches that I am
used to working only from the top side, like chain stitch.  Possibly
there is a reason couching was a popular technique in period?

I use the Dover publication of Theophilus' work "On Divers Arts" for most
of my documentation for metal working techniques, and Groves book "A
History of Needlework Tools and Accessories" for documentation of
needles.  You can probably find other information if you look.

Have fun with your needles.

Suzanna
Barony of the Steppes
Kingdom of Ansdteorra
------
Copyright 2001 by Sue Rogers, 2925 Seymour, Dallas, TX  75229. 
<wjwakefield@juno.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related 
publications, provided the author is credited and receives a copy.

If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in 
the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also 
appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being 
reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.

<the end>
Edited by Mark S. Harris	mkg-mtl-needls-art	2