looms-msg - 3/2/15 Medieval looms. Warp-weighted looms. Inkle looms. Card weaving. Rigid Heddle looms. NOTE: See also the files: weaving-msg, spinning-msg, felting-msg, velvet-msg, piled-fabrics-msg, quilting-msg, dyeing-msg, textiles-msg, Stick-Weaving-art, weavng-sizing-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: esp at cup.portal.com (Emily Sue Pinnell) Date: 12 Apr 91 04:38:50 GMT Organization: The Portal System (TM) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca While I cannot document an inkle loom, I can point out a rigid heddle loom and card weaving in the same illumination. In the famous Codex Manesse, also called the Minnesanger ms (German, early 1300's), there is an illumination which shows a lady working on weaving [f. 285]. I don't think the artist had any idea how weaving works because he has the finished belt on the back side of the rigid heddle. There are hexagonal cards in front, and it looks like the lady is beating (that's a weaving term!) this guy's hair into her warp. Besides the fact that it's backwards, it does show that there were free-standing rigid heddle looms. [It is basically a flat board with slots cut into it, and a row of holes across the center. The warp is threaded one thread in the slot, next in the hole, etc. The warp threads in the slots can be pushed up and down, while the ones in the holes are stationary. Patterns can be created with either cards or pick-up sticks.] While I haven't seen documentation for them, one or two hundred years ago in early America people were using rigid heddle boards that could be held between the knees. They used them to weave tapes, belts, and bindings in plain weave. They make a very portable package; the board is basically the size of a smalll bread board or large hand-held mirror. ___________ The one in the Codex Manesse is on a stand. | | | | | | | | | [imagine more and | |o|o|o|o| | smaller slots and holes] | | | | | | | |____ ____| | | knees would go -> ___| |___ here if wood curved Hope this is of some help. I too would be interested in more information on this subject. in service, Amelie d'Anjou [esp at cup.portal.com] Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: kreyling at lds.loral.com (Ed Kreyling 6966) Subject: Re: Weaving question Organization: Loral Data Systems Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1993 02:16:44 GMT Syr.Bennen.Mactire at p12.f1066.n374.z1.fidonet.org (Syr Bennen Mactire) writes: >I am in the process of building one of those big Viking looms, you know >the kind that lean up against the wall. I have two pictures to work from >but need more to work out the details . >Any ideas on books or points of reference that I can turn to? "The Viking World" by James Graham-Campbell (Ticknor & Fields, New Haven,1980) has a good diagram (p. 120) of a warp weighted loom. I think I have an exploded diagram in another book but can't lay my hands on it right now. (Oh, the trials of an SCA library). We'll send you a copy. "The Viking" published by Crescent Books, New York (ISBN 0-51744.553-0) has drawings of all of the weaving tools as well. >Also, how fine a weave can be accomplished on just such a loom? >How much tension is involved? I assure you the limit of how fine the weave is will be my skill, not the type of loom. Shouldn't be a problem to do 50 epi (threads per inch, Benen), which is what the Pennsic place mats were, once I get the hang of weaving UP. I have a photo of a scrap dug up at York that must be about 100 epi. The tension isn't a problem since you tie bundles of threads to the loom weights. The finer the thread, the more you tie to the weight. Of course, I will be much more knowledgable after I've had a chance to play, swear, and weave on it for a while. Brigit ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ed Kreyling | Master Erik of Telemark O.L.,O.P. kreyling at world.lds.loral.com | Shire of Brineside Moor Sarasota,Fl. USA | Kingdom of Trimaris, SCA ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: hwt at bcarh11a.bnr.ca (Henry Troup) Subject: Re: Weaving question Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1993 13:52:25 GMT > There is a book I have looked thru but do not own, "The Warp Weighted Loom" by > Marta Hoffman. It is considered one of the best sources on warp-weighted Available by mail order from Robin & Russ Handweavers, McMinnville, Oregon. The exact address can be got from most weaving magazines, and the list of publishers in the estimable Books in Print. -- Henry Troup - H.Troup at BNR.CA (Canada) From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Weaving a rain cloak Date: 2 Nov 93 10:05:44 Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK. Fiacha said "you need to be able to get to all parts at any time, this tends to mean 3' foot clearance on all four sides" For large floor looms, if you are willing to crawl around inside the loom you don't need clearance outside. i have an old Andrew loom, (floor loom with overslung batten) The loom occupies something like a five foot cube. The left side is six inches from a wall, (which just gives me room to draw the curtains between loom and wall) The right side is touching a chest of drawers for the back two feet. The back of the loom is four inches clear of the wall (which just gives room to extract the pegs holding the warp beam in) The front of the loom touches my bed which I sit on to weave (the bed is unusually high, so works OK as a loom bench) To further add to the crowding, I have fixed a shelf to the top of the loom at the back which takes my boxes of yarn, shuttles, spare reeds, hooks etc. The bedroom looks very crowded, but it is perfectly possible to thread up the loom by sitting on a stool with its legs stuck between the treadles. If threads break I crawl underneath the warp at the back and fix them from below. Similarly if I want to adjust the tie up I crawl inside the loom and fix it from inside. I suspect that I would have to climb into the loom to get at parts even if I had a mass of space around it, though it would probably be easier being able to crawl in one side and out the other instead of having to reverse! From: holsten at nature.berkeley.edu (Donna Holsten) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable attempt"...) Date: 9 Apr 1996 21:32:42 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley To the person who asked just *what* an inkle loom is: It is a type of loom that allows a person to weave a thin, plain-weave strip of fabric--like a piece of trim or a lacing. It's basically a framework with some dowels sticking out, onto which the warp is looped. I don't know whether inkle looms are in our period--I've certainly never seen one portrayed. However, I *have* seen box looms portrayed--I'm thinking specifically of the one in the tapestry I saw at the Louvre (the name of which I can't remember, but I can look it up if anyone is curious.) A box loom basically looks like a lap-sized rigid heddle loom, and produces the exact same type of fabric as an inkle loom. Now, I haven't researched the topic, so I don't know if there have been any trim or lacings found that would have been woven in a two-shed device like a box loom--but if there's one shown in a tapestry, that's pretty good evidence (for me) that inkle/box loom strips are historically accurate. Joanna From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable attempt"...) Date: 10 Apr 1996 05:26:19 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington Ok, the inkle loom in the form we have it is something Mary Atwater was shown in England in the early part of this century. Since Mrs. Atwater regarded any textile or texitle tool predating about 1890 to be "ancient" we have no idea of the actual antiquity of the piece. She also says in _Byways in Handweaving_ that she was told the English wove plainweave bands on the inkle loom and embroidered them. She thought this was boring so she devised the current methods of striped and pickup weaving techniques for it. HOWEVER: The term inkle is definitely period: Helen Bress gives two citations from the 16th century of the use of the term spelled variously unkle and incle. It seems to have been used for tapes or laces. Inkle bands are simple warp-faced bands. Their weave structure is identical to backstrap, rigid heddle and rep weaves. Backstrap is certainly in use far earlier than SCA period, rigid heddles have been found in viking graves, and rep weaves can be woven on most harnes looms. The methods Atwater adapted for modern inkle bands are period, we just don't know if they were done on a thing that looked like an inkle loom, or in a band box, or on a rigid heddle. Audelindis de Rheims From: deisla at aol.com (De Isla) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable attempt"...) Date: 10 Apr 1996 03:41:59 -0400 The inkle weaving technique is definitly period but wasn't introduced to the US until the 1930's. My father is a dealer in hard to find textile books and sells Helene Bress's book _Inkle_Weaving_ for $30. Wm. MacDonald From: fiddler at Eng.Sun.COM (Steve Hix) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable at Date: 17 Apr 1996 22:13:38 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. In article ht5 at newsbf02.news.aol.com, deisla at aol.com (De Isla) writes: :The inkle weaving technique is definitly period but wasn't introduced to :the US until the 1930's. That may be "reintroduced". I've been researching woven sashes in pre-Revolution North America, and while most of the Great Lakes-Canadian samples look to have been finger-woven, there are some that are clearly heddle-woven, plainweave, warp-face fabric. If they weren't inkle woven, somebody went to a lot of bother making things harder for themselves than necessary. Even if inkle looms in NA predate the 1930's, the don't seem to have been very common, though. :My father is a dealer in hard to find textile :books and sells Helene Bress's book _Inkle_Weaving_ for $30. A very good introduction to the inkle loom. From: David Corliss Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable at Date: 18 Apr 1996 13:37:29 GMT Organization: Parke-Davis Retrospective Validation An inkle loom is, very simply, a tool for making inkles. Inkles are referenced in Shakespeare. Narrow-band warp-faced articles have be produced by many diverse methods continuously for a *very* long time. The use of the term "inkle" refering to certain articles within this broad classification seems to have arisen in the late 1500's. The inkle loom, as that term is used today, was not known to western culture at that time: indeed, it seems to been eventually named the "inkle" loom because it produced what were already known as inkles. Beorthwine of Grafham Wood From: brettwi at ix.netcom.com(Brett Williams) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Inkle Looms (was: Re: "a reasonable attempt"...) Date: 10 Apr 1996 15:45:31 GMT holsten at nature.berkeley.edu (Donna Holsten) writes: > >To the person who asked just *what* an inkle loom is: > >It is a type of loom that allows a person to weave a thin, plain-weave >strip of fabric--like a piece of trim or a lacing. It's basically a >framework with some dowels sticking out, onto which the warp is >looped. > >I don't know whether inkle looms are in our period--I've certainly >never seen one portrayed. However, I *have* seen box looms >portrayed--I'm thinking specifically of the one in the tapestry I saw >at the Louvre (the name of which I can't remember, but I can look it >up if anyone is curious.) A box loom basically looks like a lap-sized >rigid heddle loom, and produces the exact same type of fabric as an >inkle loom. Now, I haven't researched the topic, so I don't know if >there have been any trim or lacings found that would have been woven >in a two-shed device like a box loom--but if there's one shown in a >tapestry, that's pretty good evidence (for me) that inkle/box loom >strips are historically accurate. > >Joanna Small box looms with a rigid heddle were used to make ribbons with fine threads, such as silk. I just came home from the library last night with the first set of proceeds from ILL (grin) on tablet weaving, and incidentally got a copy of Crowfoot et alia's _Medieval Finds From Excavations in London: 4, Textiles and Clothing_, HMSO 1992, ISBN 0 11 290445 9, which, on page 25, shows a drawing of a woman using a small box loom 'as it might have looked in the 14th century'. I find no archeaological evidence *so far* for decorative trim with merely tabby shed; rather more complicated designs were done with tablet/card weaving techniques; however I haven't looked very hard yet and am nothing what I'd term an expert. Crowfoot's work does not mention two-shed trim at all, other than silk ribbon used where we would use a lining/interfacing reinforcement on the business end of a garment, like button/buttonhole closures. Of all things, I got the last box loom of this sort from Halcyon Yarns last week. The manufacturer no longer makes them. For the non-cognoscenti with respect to weaving terminology, a shed is the V-shape formed when threads split in a loom enabling a shuttle to go through. A pick is one weft shot-- so when someone is talking about 45 picks per inch, that's 45 weft shots per inch. Tabby is the weaving world's name for plain woven fabric. Most of the cotton-poly broadcloths seen in garb in Caid, for example, is tabby woven. "For making tabby-woven ribbons a rigid heddle or heddle-frame was suitable (see page 141). The frame consisted of a series of pierced slats through which alternate ends were threaded enabling a shed and countershed to be created when the fame was raised or depressed; it could either be used on its own with the warp tensioned as for tablet weaving, or fitted into a small box loom supported on the lap (figure 8). An elk antler heddle-frame from a 13th- or early 14th century depsoit in Bergen Norway, shows that extra rows of holes for the warp were sometimes pierced through the edge of the frame at the top and bottom to assist with patterning." Page 141: "Silk ribbons in tabby weave appear in English depsoits of the 10th and 11th centuries (Pritchard 1984, 473, 281-2, no 36, pls IVB; Walton 1989A 367-9; Crowfoot 1990, nos 1017-19, 1021, pls xxxviif, xxxvii a and b) but they do not reappear until the late 14th century, when the6y are generally woven from two-ply warp and weft yarn. The earlier ribbons are not woven from plied thrown silk; instead, gre'ge (undegummed) silk was common and the warp and/or weft yarn sometimes had a S-twist. This indicates that the ribbons have different places of origin, the earlier ones perhaps coming from small workshops situated in the Levant or central Asia, the later ones being locally produced in London from imported thread...." I think the fringed garter on the next page (142) is too cool... (cackle) ciorstan From: theducks at greenduck.com (Steve Urbach) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: New hobby- weaving Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 18:15:54 GMT Organization: Green Duck Designs deadpool at phoenix.net (Lord Whoever) wrote: >I am considering learning a new skill, weaving (yes, everyone in my >household, especially my lady, thinks I've finally lost it, but...). I >don't plan on anything too elaborate, just some 24" wide tartan. The >question is, where to get the loom (or plans to build it). I should be >able to live with a simple fixed heddle loom, but if I knew I probably >wouldn't be asking. I need to be able to do 24" by a minimum of 5 >yards. Is there a good way to learn about this stuff? Green Duck Designs carries a "Loom Plan". I will have to find a copy and see how wide a warp it will handle. We will be at Estrella again this year. Keep the Duck Green, bring money . Derek >------------------------- >Lord Gundiok Swienbrothar >------------------------- >Laird Collin MacLean >------------------------- >Ravensfort, Ansteorra >deadpool at phoenix.net _ | \ Steve Urbach | )erek ____|_/ragonsclaw theducks at greenduck.com / / / http://www.greenduck.com Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 12:31:48 -0600 (CST) From: "Donna Holsten" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: RE: inkle weaving & warp faced band weaving > Does anyone have any evidence for inkle looms being used in period? I > have heard both that they didn't exist and that by the 16th century (in > Scotland?) they seem to have existed. >From what I understand, the "inkle loom" that many people use (the one that's basically a bunch of dowels sticking out of some boards) is 19th Century. *However*, a "box loom" is well within our period, and just as easy to make, and possibly even easier to use. The term "inkle" would be appropriately used to describe a narrow band of cloth or ribbon, no matter what type of loom was used to weave it. For a drawing of a box loom, see the Museum of London's _Textiles and Clothing_. (I don't have it handy, otherwise I'd give you a page number.) It's basically just what it sounds like--a lap-sized box with a cloth beam and warp beam, and a rigid heddle. It works just like any modern rigid-heddle loom. The advantages of it over an "inkle loom" are that it's more lap-sized (the "inkle-looms" I've seen people use haven't exactly been lap-sized), you can wind on exactly as much warp as you want (an "inkle loom" can only take a specific length of warp), and it was used before 1600. Now, I'm not a carpenter, so I'm afraid I can't really tell you how to make one, although I was actually planning on finding a woodworker to help me, some time in September. The only actual period drawing of a box loom I've seen is in _The Book of Tapestry_ on page 40-something. It's in a noble pastoral millefleur tapestry from about...1400 or so (again, I don't have it with me)...from the Louvre. (If anyone knows of any *other* period drawings of a box-loom, I'd be forever indebted!) Joanna Melissa Ronsivalle Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 08:42:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Cynthia Virtue To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: RE: inkle weaving & warp faced band weaving >For a drawing of a box loom, see the Museum of London's _Textiles and >Clothing_. (I don't have it handy, otherwise I'd give you a page number.) >It's basically just what it sounds like--a lap-sized box with a cloth beam >and warp beam, and a rigid heddle. Roy Underhill (the PBS chap who does woodworking without power tools) showed how to make a box loom on one of his shows a few years back. It looked just like the Museum of London's picture, although he said the style was about 100+ years old. There's a good chance that Mr. Underhill has books out that follow his projects -- one might be able to find construction information for the box loom. cv Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:53:43 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: warp weighted loom Mary Hysong wrote: > Maggie.Mulvaney wrote: > A friend of mine and I have been trying to come up with a handspun > > > yarn strong enough to work as warp for an upright (warp-weighted) > > loom, yet thin enough to match period examples. > > ******************* > Sorry I can't help on the question, but Please tell me where you found > info on warp wieghted looms--I'm very interested in trying them. I > understand Scandinavian countries used them right into this century for > blankets and they often began with a tablet woven heading, so if you > used it for a cloak your trim is built in--info and sourced vastly > appreciated! > Mairi And here I was waiting for someone else to answer this... ;) I don't have any particular books in mine own library specifically about warp-weighted looms, though I know that there is at least one already out there: Marta Hoffman, _The Warp Weighted Loom_, ISBN unknown at this writing. Professor Barber's _Prehistoric Textiles_ (a fascinating read) is a tad on the early side for SCA folk, but has a lot of interesting information about textiles woven on the warp-weighted loom. However, being a snoop armed with curiosity and a good search engine... Try a look at Master Gerekr's pages. There's a specific page i his site with a photograph of a warp weighted loom set up and ready to go at: http://users.aol.com/gerekr/costume.html#warp There's also a page with two encyclopaedic-style illustrations, complete with labels and terminology both in Icelandic and English at: http://www.dmv.com/~iceland/vefstadur/vefstadur.html The latter site is one of the pages in Ullarbladid (both 'd's are the thorn-type d), a commercial site for a woman who exports Icelandic wool, yarns and some tools to the US. She has, incidentally, a bone needle suitable for naalbinding in her pages. I am not even a satisfied customer, so can't make any further comment, other than providing the reference. I forgot to add-- Indigo Hound, the people who make a variety of wool processing combs for worsted preparation (anything from single to five pitch! Viking Combs is what they call 'em), also makes a warp-weighted loom and two sizes of late-period appropriate great wheel. I have a copy of their catalog since I was toying with the idea of ordering combs, but neither the wheel or loom is depicted therein. They advertize in Spin.Off regularly. ciorstan Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:44:09 -0500 Subject: Re: inkle weaving & warp faced band weaving (forward) From: tamapa at juno.com (Cynthia A Kraus) >>From: Wendy Robertson >> >>Does anyone have any evidence for inkle looms being used in period? I have >>heard both that they didn't exist and that by the 16th century (in >>Scotland?) they seem to have existed. My research has yielded little hard evidence of any small looms. Unless there is a museum or archaelogist find out there that most scholars don't know about, the majority of the evidence is in pictures. I am a believer in using reasoning and speculating about tool evolution. The automobile did not spring full-blown but was a series of little discoveries that led up to putting it all together. The 'inkle' loom as we know it cannot be dated further back than early Victorian era though the name comes from Scandinavia. Remember that 'inkle' refers to a narrow band of cloth, not the weaving technique. It is possible to weave anything on an inkle loom on a full size loom (you just waste a lot of warp space). If you look at the design of an inkle loom, you will notice that it is essentially a warping board with an adjustable peg. The key design element to modernly label a loom as an inkle loom is that adjustable peg - it is also present on the floor models. When you remove the adjustable peg, you simple have a warping board which are period. Now the question is - were warping boards used to weave on or were they strictly for measuring the warp? If you are planning on tranferring your warp to a full-size loom, you will need to actually thread up the 'shafts' - either rigid heddles, string loops, tablets, etc. Alll of these techniques were used to weave wider fabrics than are generally available on a inkle loom - yes, even tablet weaving could use over 200 cards - in fine silk this weaves about 3" wide but you need the wider loom to handle the thickness of your card and to give more space for multiple 'packs'. It does seem to be a more common practice to weave wider pieces on the wider loom and we know it is possible to weave the narrower pieces 'back-strap' which is also a loom but with a more sensitive tensioning mechanism. The argument against back-strap is generally that the medieval woman could not afford to be 'tied' to her work. I disagree since in general it is as easy to 'untie' yourself as it is to get up from a standard loom. The worry about tangling your warp is not really an issue - if you are routinely interrupted, you develop techniques to putting down your weaving for a temporary break and different techniques for a longer break. I do not see a medieval woman spending 30 min per task each day, but rather more the old farm way of a day for laundry, a day for cleaning, a day for weaving. Yes, you will get interrupted for such things as meals and children, but on the day's (or morning's) chore, you would typically get several hours of work done. The next question to ask is - what is the real advantage of changing the existing method for a miniature loom. Under the feudal system, the landowner actually owned the looms and the serfs did the weaving. What is the landowner's investment in a miniature loom worth? Does he want many special purpose looms that may be idle or general-purpose looms that can be used for any need at hand? The average serf would not have a loom in their home so back-strap is the only option available for what little time they could call their own. They would probably not be able to afford the extra wood needed for a loom and it is vulnerable during a harsh winter to becoming firewood - better the loom than the table. Besides, the cloth woven at the landowner's demand would be shared among all the serfs. As we move forward in time, professional weaving guilds appear. Did they spend time on bandweaving? Probably or we wouldn't have some the spectacular tabletwoven stoles like St. Cuthbert's. Did they use a special loom? Who knows. Medieval guilds are a secretive group - your wealth and status is dependant on keeping ahead of the competition so there were often rules against sharing 'trade secrets' outside the guild - there is not documentation for the European draw-loom which must have existing prior to the 18th century but this is when it's documented. The loom itself determines what can be woven - if your loom can't, you can't. The same arguements apply to the guild as to the landowner - will the investment pay off? The answer depends on the specific guild. Each guild will often have a 'specialty' - if that specialty benefits from a specialized loom, it is probably worth the investment. It is easy to imagine a medieval weaver figuring out that you can combine measuring your warp with threading your warp into one step. Besides, warping boards take less space and less wood so you can put more weavers to work in less space. Did they add the adjustable peg? Possibly not - this is a convenience, not a necessity. While we think it seems obvious, it has already been done - hindsight is 20/20. I personally use an inkle loom because I'm a recreationist and have only small blocks of time to devote to my weaving - just like a costumer uses the sewing machine. I understand the history of the tool I use and do not try to justify it's use. If someone asks, I pretty much tell the what I've written. Tamara Tysjachyolosova Spinning Winds, Calontir From: shansu at xmission.com (shansu) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Card weaving Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 19:25:38 GMT Organization: Silverwood On 1 Sep 97 10:25:05 GMT, tierna at agora.rdrop.com (Britt ) wrote: >I've just taken up card weaving, ummm, about three hours ago. Well, the >weaving part, that is. In the past week I've read a couple of books and >made my own cards thus far, and am now two and a half feet into a simple >(4 forward, 4 back) practice band in acrylic yarn. I've made eight >different kinds of mistakes, fixed most of them (my first 4 inches are >*awful, I'll unweave 'em when I'm done and fringe it), found my stride >and finally gotten my edges even. This looks hopeful. >I plan on making custom trim for my household if I can get the hang of >it all. Would there possibly be an email list applicable to the craft? >Would anyone be willing to offer tips/threading patterns/advice? >I plan on making my own period equipment soon, so I can weave at events. >(Anyone know where I can purchase a pair of iron shears?) > >And yes, I've been through Stephen's Florilegium files, thanks. :) Something my lord build for me (so I wouldn't have to tie myself to a doorknob) was a cardweaving "loom." It consists of a 1x6 about 3 feet long, with pieces of the same board fixed upright at both ends. One of these has a notch cut in it, about 1/4 inch deep and all the way across the board, except for 1/2 inch at either side. The other end has two pieces of 1/4 square stock with holes drilled in both ends- run a long, stiff wire through the hole at one end, across the board, and thrrough the other hoile. Stack the other bar on top. Bend the ends over and attach to the non-notched end board with screw eyes. This is a tensioning device- your finished work goes over both bars, then under the bar furthest from you and up between the two bars. Then it goes over the bar closest to you and hangs down. Sound complicated enough? (grin) It's really quite simple, but hard to describe. He got the idea from a book on card weaving that I have in the basement somewhere. It is a very useful book- I can find the author and title for you if you'd like. I can even send you the instructions/plans for the "loom." You need an empty cardboard tube and some string to wind your unwoven yarn on. This device might not be strictly period- but then again, who knows? I haven't researched it- but it stands to reason that anyone that did this type of weaving would have some way to make it more portable than having to literally "tie" themselves down! You can also use an inkle loom to hold your cardweaving- but this limits your width. I also have some really good patterns for cardweaving, and instructions for making a two-color reversible band. In fact, I made a pair for my Queen (Corisande) to wear as tippetts when she stepped down. Done in her colors, with her device. Lots of work, but worth it. Yours in service, Shansu shansu at xmission.com Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 22:17:36 +0000 (GMT) From: mmy at fp.co.nz (Maggie.Mulvaney) To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU Subject: the quest for a warp on a warpweighted loom - update Greetings to all who have graciously expressed interest in and suggestions for the project to weave an authentic cloth on the warp-weighted loom! The latest news is good, we've indeed managed to spin a single-ply warp thread to correct thinness and warp a test piece. I've updated the webpage about the project at: http://www.fpnet.co.nz/users/m/maggiem/costume/warp.htm thanks to all who have been helpful! /mmy ************************************************************ * MMY * Maggie.Mulvaney at fp.co.nz *=20 * Maggie Mulvaney * http://www.fpnet.co.nz/users/m/maggiem * ************************************************************ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:39:07 -0500 (EST) From: "Charles J. Cohen" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Inkle Look Question [Posted for a friend, sorry about the delay - Midair] From: TLBougher at aol.com Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 13:49:05 -0400 (EDT) <> First things first. The *inkle loom* is NOT period. The style of weaving IS period. The loom is not. The *inkle loom* was developed in the mid 1800's. We use it in the SCA because it is portable. People in the SCA use it for weaving narrow strips of warp-faced cloth, either by employing the use of heddles (as in "inkle weaving") or tablets (as in "tablet weaving"). Inkle weaving (narrow strips of warp-faced weaving employing the use of heddles) has been found as early as 2500BC. <> The longest pegs I have seen have been about six (6) inches long. <> You could make an inkle loom of this design just about any width. However, this design is a Royal PITA (Pain In The A**) to warp. << Since I'd like to make as long bands as possible at once, or have the option to, at least.>> The length of the band has nothing to do with the length of the pegs. The length of the pegs would only effect the *width* of the band. The length of the band is determined by the number of pegs that are used. << Also, what's a 'tensioning wheel?>> The tension bar is there to adjust the tension of the warp and is treated as one of the warping pegs. As you weave, the overall length of the band shrinks. This is because, when you first warp the loom, all the warp is in a straight line. As you weave, the warp is now traveling over and under the weft. This effectively shrinks the length occupied by the warp. When warping the loom, the tension bar is at its fully extended position. As you weave, you loosen the tension so that you may advance the warp. When you tighten it again, you will eventually find that you can't get it all the way back to its original fully extended position. <> Go to the library and look for books on weaving. Many of them will have a chapter on inkle weaving and include photos of inkle looms. Some even have diagrams and plans for making your own. I know that the book titled _Inkle_Weaving_ by Helene Bress has plans for two different inkle looms. One is a table top sized loom (like most of us use) that produces between 8 and 10 feet of finished length. The other is a floor sized loom (like only a few of us own) that can produce many more feet of length. A friend of mine built me a floor inkle loom that produces 19-1/3 *yards* of finished length. <> Having a tensioning bar that has a cross section that is not round is better. My favorite inkle loom (I own three of them) has a tensioning bar that has a cross section that is basically triangular (with rounded edges, of course). This allows me to have small minor tension adjustments when necessary. I hope this helps answer your questions. Good luck in getting a loom for the holidays To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Inkle Loom Question John or Fraya Davis wrote: > Can anyone send me diagrams of an inkle loom and the way it is used? We > don't have anyone nearby that I know of to teach us, and there are many > people here who would love to learn. Heehee-- ask and ye shall receive. I wrote this for another list, but it's pertinent here. *begin quotation* It's hard to tell someone how to use a specific object without resorting to visual aids. I will try, nonetheless. (trots off to get hers) My inkle loom is a Howell-- it has that little spread-eagled man burnt into the wood. Each manufacturer has a slightly different arrangement for a tensioning device-- which is immaterial to the lecture at hand, for the nonce. The loom is basically shaped like this (yes, out of proportion due to limitations of ascii art: _ _ 1 * * 2 3 | *---| | | ____________4__|* *___ 5 *_______________*_______*_| 6 7 8 I've indicated each peg with the * symbol and assigned a number. So, the idea, all considerations of multi-colored warps aside for the nonce, is to make a continuous warp by starting at peg 6. Go straight back from 6 to 2, down and across to 3, ignore 4, go to 5, back to 7, then down and back to 8 and under the entire loom's length to 6 again. Ah, you say, what's number 1 and 4 for? String heddles. On your second pass of warp threading, instead of skipping peg 1, pass your warp from 6 to 1, then 2. The rest of the warp path is the same. A string heddle is made by knotting a longish length of string to make a firm loop around pegs 1 and 4. Attach one end of your heddle to peg 4 by looping it over the peg, bring it around your second warp end, then attach the other end of the heddle to peg 4 the same way. Doubling your heddle makes for a strong one, and also means less measuring time-- hey, winding warp is my least favorite step. Continue this technique until the desired number of warp ends have been achieved, alternating heddle pass and non-heddle pass. An inkle loom has a shed already present once it's warped correctly. Take a stick beater of some kind, insert it between peg 4 and the warp, and force the un-string-heddled warp up through the other warp ends to change shed. Voila-- instant tabby. And that's how an inkle loom is used properly. I highly recommend Helene Bress' _Inkle Weaving_, ISBN 0-9620543-1-3, which covers inkle technique thoroughly, though I have to admit the projects depicted therein just scream "1970's!" due to color choices and just plain ol' shifts in cultural tastes. Amusingly enough, I noticed that one of the names of the sample contributors in this book, Doramay Keasbey, is still appearing as the author of the occasional article in "Weavers" magazine... I digress. Anyhow, it just occurred to me-- what if one set up an inkle loom with a string heddle and bar arrangement like that of a four-shaft warp weighted loom? A narrow twill cloth instead of tabby? Hrm. Hrm! *end quotation* An inkle loom is not a device used in period to make tabby bands-- it is at earliest a 19th century invention. The latest Tournaments Illuminated has a very wonderful article on band looms of the larger, tablet weaving sort; plain weave (tabby in weaver's lingo) were mostly woven on proportionally smaller rigid-heddle box looms. Please be advised, though, that the inkle loom *produces* a perfectly period item. > Gillian > MoAS for Inc. Shire of Ard Ruadh (St. George, UT) of Artemisia ciorstan Subject: ANST - Looms for Tape Weaving Date: Mon, 08 Jun 98 07:18:05 MST From: "Donna C" To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG >Actually just doing some inkle weaving. I know the inkle loom itself is >a post-period creation but what did they use in period? I know the >South/Central Americans use a method called backstrap weaving which >gives the same effect. I once read how the ancients Scandanavians did >their weaving but I have long since lost that memory. Mistrss Gunnora >or anyone else???? > >Moriel*** There were a lot of different methods for what was commonly called "Tape Weaving". From the most simple; embedding two sticks in the ground a good distance apart; to a small lap loom with ratchets and locking mechanisms. Some of the most common were variations on the two sticks. In several cultures, they would mount two rods onto a flat piece of board. This could be done in many sizes; from one about two feet apart (that could fit on your lap), to one about six feet apart (you either sat or stood between the poles). I know of people who have used their four poster bed as a substitute for the larger of these. I have found a modern commercial child's loom that fits the fourteenth century loom that I want. It has a flat base with two sets of arms and rods, one at each end. It has ratchets and locking clips. It also came with a rigid heddle. The best thing of all is that it fits in my lap. No more breaking my back to use the inkle looms!!! I am in the process of warping it up with cards using silk. To make the shed in period, what they would use would depend on what they were making. If they wanted to make an edging for clothes, they would use a rigid heddle. If they wanted to make a belt or anything sturdy, they would use cards. Two really good resources that I have found are: - The Book of Looms by Eric Broudy (ISBN0-87451-649-8) This one covers a lot of different looms from all over the ancient world. - Textiles and Clothing by Elisabeh Crofoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland (ISBN 0 11 290445 9) This book not only briefly hits on a variety of looms, it also describes massive information about twist, weave, dyes, content among other things. All of the pieces of textiles in this one are existing. Galla Cunningham Barony of Bryn GwladE> Subject: Re: ANST - Looms Date: Tue, 09 Jun 98 13:40:58 MST From: "Donna C" To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG >Where did you find such a loom? I have always wanted on that is more >period. I bought it from the local weaving supplier here in Bryn Gwlad. The company is Hill Country Weavers. Their information is as follows: Hill Country Weavers Suzanne MIddlebrook 1701 S. Congress Ave. Austin, Texas 78704 512/707-7396 The loom that I purchased is called an Easy Weaver made by Harrisville. It costs around $100. It is a very simple design that could be duplicated by someone with good woodworking skills (unlike me). GallaE> Subject: Re: ANST - natural dyeing ... reds & purples Date: Wed, 01 Jul 98 09:56:08 MST From: jhartel To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG Just a bit more on Tyrean or "imperial" purple. This info. I read from Ann Hecht's book, THE ART OF THE LOOM-Weaving Spinning and Dyeing across the world. [ISBN 0-8478-1147-6] This a a GORGEOUS book with lots of good info. Moriel*** Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 14:50:29 -0700 From: "Gina L. Hill" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Speaking of Tablet Weaving --Inkle looms E. W. Gray wrote: > Anyone know a good cheap source for an inkle loom ? > -Gabrielle of Wyndreach You might try; Earthguild; http://earthguild.com/ Halcyon; http://www.halcyonyarn.com/ Straw Into Gold; http://www.halcyonyarn.com/ The Woolery; http://ww1.woolery.com/webpages/jive/index.html And there may be something among the links on this page for tablet weaving... http://w3.thegroup.net/~janis/resources.html Eleanor Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 15:02:55 -0700 From: "Melinda Shoop" To: Subject: Re: Speaking of Tablet Weaving --Inkle looms Also try Heritage Looms--- Vigdis Bjornsdottir Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 19:04:22 -0400 From: rmhowe To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Speaking of Tablet Weaving --Inkle looms E. W. Gray wrote: > Anyone know a good cheap source for an inkle loom ? > -Gabrielle of Wyndreach http://www.radix.net/~herveus/ Magnus, unaffiliated. Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 04:29:26 -0400 From: Melanie Wilson To: "INTERNET:sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" Subject: Inkle loom >Anyone know a good cheap source for an inkle loom ? Make one :), PLans in David Bryants Book Wheels & Looms, esential for making all things to do with spinning and weaving (he also sells individual plans of these and period furniture) Mel Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 00:37:30 EDT From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Speaking of Tablet Weaving --Inkle looms << Anyone know a good cheap source for an inkle loom ? -Gabrielle of Wyndreach >> Edward Boyceright of Calontir charges around $50 for really nice ones (which he makes). Roller looms are about $35. Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:42:27 -0500 From: Jenn Carlson To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Speaking of Tablet Weaving --Inkle looms E. W. Gray wrote: > Anyone know a good cheap source for an inkle loom ? > -Gabrielle of Wyndreach Sorry to be so slow in replying to this. But here's the website for a very inexpensive and easy to make (if I can do it, anybody can) inkle/card weaving loom designed by a friend of mine: http://www.unl.edu/opcenter/homepages/tm/loom.html I've found mine nearly impossible to break, and easy to use. I take one side off when I warp and it works great. Maerwynn -- H.L. Mærwynn of Holme "fiegnas syndon geflwære, fleod eal-gearo, Mag Mor, Calontir druncne dryht-guman, do› swa ic bidde." maerwynn at unl.edu --Wealhfleo Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 05:58:13 -0500 From: Melanie Wilson To: "INTERNET:sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" Subject: Great Wheel Plans and other textile plans The Great wheel plans were GBP 6.20 The Spindle wheel the same (smaller version of the Great wheel) There is also plans for, Sloping Spinning Wheel, Norwegian Spinning wheel, Shetland, upright, english traditional, connecticut chair, arkwright, samual crompton, French, Dordogne, Charka wheels. Drun Carder, spinning stool, tabby loom, tablet loom, inkle loom, 4 shaft table, foot power looms and warping mill! Top price of any is GBP10 Plus postage of course. David Bryant +44 1565 651 681 (usually an ansaphone !) He also did a book with many of these plans in it but this is now OOP. Last time I bought plans for somebody in the US he didn't take plastic only sterling so I sent a cheque for her, as I have a sterling & a dollar account (and take plastic in my book business ) I'm willing to help out if anyone is stuck Mel Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 07:56:06 -0500 From: Debra Kozak To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Treadle Loom Plans Loom Construction by Jeri Hjert and Paul Van Rosenstiel Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1978 New York ISBN 0442234163 (hard bound) ISBN 0442234171 (paperback) Lady Berkana von Metz House Darkyard Middle Kingdom Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:23:52 EST From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Treadle Loom Plans I have plans available. "How to Construct a 4-Harness, 6-Treadle Jack Loom." Detta Juusola, Detta's Spindle Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:59:59 GMT From: "Elonwen ferch Dafydd" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Looms A warp weighted loom is easier to make. You take three small trees from the forest near by, erect two of them and the third one should be tied horizontally on the top. Then you take the threads and make the warp. Tie equally weighed sand bags in the bottom, to make the threads tight enough. If you only saw a picture of it, on that basis it would be very(!) easy to build. Oh, and don't forget a heddle, it makes the weaving ever so much easier and is indeed and old invention. Elonwen Date: Fri, 4 Jan 1980 07:16:47 -0700 From: "Cathie" To: Subject: Re:Warp weighted looms I have built my own warp-weighted loom using clay weights and it works great. I don't have it set up right now because I just moved and need to work it in, but the book by Marta Hoffman, The Warp-Weighted Loom, was my guide when I build it. THLady Jorunn nic Lochlainn Outlands Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 13:42:16 -0700 From: Lynn Meyer To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re:Warp weighted looms There's a whole bibliography and set of links on WWL's by Thora Sharptooth, at . Also, the SCAWeaving list would be the place to ask detailed questions of people with experience (of which I'm not one :-) ). Barbara posted her Pennsic display proposal there, too. Send email to to subscribe. Or find it in one of the usual two "SCA lists of email lists", and (which I urge everybody to bookmark :-) ) Halima From: MEDTC-DISCUSS at yahoogroups.com [mailto:MEDTC- DISCUSS at yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Viktoria Holmqvist Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 4:18 PM To: medtc-discuss at yahoogroups.com Subject: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Pattern and Loom John Becker's seriously out-of-print "Pattern and Loom. A Practical Study of the Development of Weaving Techniques in China, Western Asia, and Europe" has been made available online by the co-author Don B. Wagner. See this link for more information and downloading: http://www.staff.hum.ku.dk/dbwagner/Pattern-and-Loom.html This is a great service to weavers and textile people with a interest in historical textiles and techniques! I hope they'll manage to find a publisher willing to put the book back into print too. (I have been searching for it second hand for the past 5 years and would sign up for a printed copy right away even though the digital version is available for free.) /Viktoria. ---------------------------------------------------- Lanam fecit ("she worked with wool")--Roman epitaph. Viktoria Holmqvist, G?teborg, Sweden. E-mail: lanam_fecit (at) hotmail (dot) com To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: looms Posted by: "Catherine Koehler" hccartck at yahoo.com hccartck Date: Tue Apr 13, 2010 1:02 am ((PDT)) I weave on a 54" 4-harness loom and the set up is indeed a large part of the process. Experienced weavers always warp for several projects at a time if possible and have some "tricks" to make the changing of warps easier such as tying off the warp ends in front of the heddles. The new warps can be tied to these ends and then rolled easily to the back beam without having to rethread the reed. The first time you warp a loom, you swear you'll never do it again.....but you always do!! (and you get remarkably faster at it with each warping) --- On Tue, 4/13/10, Stefan li Rous wrote: Melandra said: <<< yah, it is a big loom, but being single, it doesn't matter if the loom takes up half of the bedroom....I just wish it was in good enough shape for me to actually use it - but that, hopefully, will be taken care of soon... >>> When you first posted the question about the loom, that is what immediately occurred to me, the complexity and size. But late period wasn't that far from the Jaquard (sp?) loom, so I decided that that 5- harness might be possible in a late period industrial setting if not in a home. I've seen what it takes to set up simpler looms. I'd be real interested in hearing how long it takes you to get it set up for a new job. Even if I had the patience for the weaving, I think setting up the loom would drive me nuts. I could see where setting up the loom could take you a large part of the total weaving time. Of course there may be folks on this list who've actually got experience in weaving on larger looms. Any comments? Thanks, Stefan -------- THLord Stefan li Rous Barony of Bryn Gwlad Kingdom of Ansteorra Mark S. Harris Austin, Texas StefanliRous at austin.rr. com To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: looms Posted by: "Catherine Koehler" hccartck at yahoo.com hccartck Date: Tue Apr 13, 2010 1:24 am ((PDT)) It's 3:30 a.m. and I must be brain dead.....I need to make a correction because what I wrote makes no sense!! You tie off the warp ends in front of the REED and then you do not have to re-thread the REED or the HEDDLES (assuming that you are using the same heddle sequence) Aine the sleep deprived To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: looms Posted by: "Stefan li Rous" stefanlirous at austin.rr.com stefanlirous Date: Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:12 am ((PDT)) Aine said: <<< I weave on a 54" 4-harness loom and the set up is indeed a large part of the process.>>> That is a wide loom! I seem to remember comments that most medieval cloth was woven on narrower looms. Do you weave by yourself or with someone else? What do you do? Throw the shuttle back and forth to yourself? It seems like your back would be sore from leaning left and right. Stefan -------- THLord Stefan li Rous Barony of Bryn Gwlad Kingdom of Ansteorra Mark S. Harris Austin, Texas StefanliRous at austin.rr.com To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: looms Posted by: "melinda" mlaf at sbcglobal.net maybard Date: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:38 pm ((PDT)) From: "Stefan li Rous" <<< I seem to remember comments that most medieval cloth was woven on narrower looms. Do you weave by yourself or with someone else? What do you do? Throw the shuttle back and forth to yourself? It seems like your back would be sore from leaning left and right. Stefan >>> On my loom, the heddle has a flat ledge that the shuttle rests on. On either side is a small framework with a moveable block, attached to a rope. The ropes meet in a wooden handle. You yank the handle, the block hits the shuttle, sending it zooming over to the other side, yank the rope again, and it zooms over to the first side... Melandra To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: counterbalance looms Posted by: "Catherine Koehler" hccartck at yahoo.com hccartck Date: Tue Apr 13, 2010 4:51 pm ((PDT)) To Melandra and others who are interested... I have come across a picture in the book The Book of Looms by Eric Broudy that was taken from a thirteenth century manuscript. The illustration clearly shows a treadle loom with pulleys for counterbalancing but is only two harnesses. A quote from the book regarding this illustration is as follows: "Since the Middle Ages this loom has been refined to enable it to accommodate additional harnesses, to modify the shedding mechanism, or to make it sturdier but in essence it has remained unchanged." (Broudy, p.141-142) I have a hard copy of the book, but I believe it is available to read online at Google books. To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: looms Posted by: "Karen" nerak at aol.com mistress_nerak Date: Wed Apr 14, 2010 6:11 am ((PDT)) <<< On my loom, the heddle has a flat ledge that the shuttle rests on. On either side is a small framework with a moveable block, attached to a rope. The ropes meet in a wooden handle. You yank the handle, the block hits the shuttle, sending it zooming over to the other side, yank the rope again, and it zooms over to the first side... Melandra >>> Ah, a 'flying shuttle' which allows one person to weave wider cloth. I have a 45" 4-harness loom and weave fabric for cutting garments. I do need to 'lean' from side to side in order to throw the shuttles, but it gets to be a sort-of dance while sitting and quite relaxing. Warping is time consuming, which is why I tend to weave longer pieces of cloth. The loom will waste about a yard of warp in the warping process, and the set up time is about the same no matter how long the warp. So, I rarely warp for less than 5 yards. Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:57:52 +1000 From: Raymond Wickham Subject: [Lochac] interesting video showing back strap looms being used To: lochac http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?pg=00011&USL=00302 From: Ilyse Gruber Date: October 24, 2011 9:04:59 AM CDT To: the-triskele-tavern@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: {TheTriskeleTavern} Loom purchasing?? On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 9:58 AM, adelheid leinwater wrote: <<< Can anyone share any companies or links where one could buy looms that you would recommend? I know of a few people interested in buying card weaving, inkle weaving and table looms. -- Meisterin Adelheid Leinwater >>> You may wish to try Finniwig http://www.finniwig.com/finniwigstudios.htm Hon Ldy Ilyse Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 14:21:26 -0400 From: Terri Morgan via Atlantia To: , "Merry Rose" Subject: [MR] FW: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Thesis on warp weighted looms Do our weavers know about this new work? - Hrothny <<< From: MEDTC-DISCUSS@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MEDTC-DISCUSS@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:22 PM To: MEDTC-DISCUSS Subject: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Thesis on warp weighted looms This thesis covers warp weighted looms in Anglo-Saxon and Viking era England, using the experience of modern warp weighted weavers. It includes the first known (but previously misidentified) archaeological pieces of the loom from the era. There is also a discussion on a small bone tool that is currently thought to be a weaving tool, except by weavers. Warp Weighted Looms: Then and Now Anglo-Saxon and Viking Archaeological Evidence and Modern Practitioners (Manchester eScholar - The University of Manchester) Edited by Mark S. Harris looms-msg Page 25 of 25