green-art - 6/15/91 ਀ഊ"Lincoln Green" by Sandra Sardeson. The dyeing and history of Lincoln Green. ਀ഊNOTE: See also the files: dyeing-msg, mordants-msg, dye-list-art, felting-msg, textiles-msg, linen-msg, looms-msg, weaving-msg, color-a-fab-bib. ਀ഊ************************************************************************ ਀一伀吀䤀䌀䔀 ⴀഊ ਀吀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀 椀猀 愀 挀漀氀氀攀挀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 瘀愀爀椀漀甀猀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀 栀愀瘀椀渀最 愀 挀漀洀洀漀渀 琀栀攀洀攀 琀栀愀琀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 挀漀氀氀攀挀琀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 洀礀 爀攀愀搀椀渀最 漀昀 琀栀攀 瘀愀爀椀漀甀猀 挀漀洀瀀甀琀攀爀 渀攀琀眀漀爀欀猀⸀ 匀漀洀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀 搀愀琀攀 戀愀挀欀 琀漀 ㄀㤀㠀㤀Ⰰ 猀漀洀攀 洀愀礀 戀攀 愀猀 爀攀挀攀渀琀 愀猀 礀攀猀琀攀爀搀愀礀⸀ഊ ਀吀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀 椀猀 瀀愀爀琀 漀昀 愀 挀漀氀氀攀挀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 昀椀氀攀猀 挀愀氀氀攀搀 匀琀攀昀愀渀✀猀 䘀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀ 吀栀攀猀攀 昀椀氀攀猀 愀爀攀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 漀渀 琀栀攀 䤀渀琀攀爀渀攀琀 愀琀㨀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀昀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀漀爀最ഊ ਀䤀 栀愀瘀攀 搀漀渀攀 愀 氀椀洀椀琀攀搀 愀洀漀甀渀琀 漀昀 攀搀椀琀椀渀最⸀ 䴀攀猀猀愀最攀猀 栀愀瘀椀渀最 琀漀 搀漀 眀椀琀栀 猀攀瀀愀爀愀琀攀 琀漀瀀椀挀猀 眀攀爀攀 猀漀洀攀琀椀洀攀猀 猀瀀氀椀琀 椀渀琀漀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀 昀椀氀攀猀 愀渀搀 猀漀洀攀琀椀洀攀猀 攀砀琀爀愀渀攀漀甀猀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀 眀愀猀 爀攀洀漀瘀攀搀⸀ 䘀漀爀 椀渀猀琀愀渀挀攀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀 䤀䐀猀 眀攀爀攀 爀攀洀漀瘀攀搀 琀漀 猀愀瘀攀 猀瀀愀挀攀 愀渀搀 爀攀洀漀瘀攀 挀氀甀琀琀攀爀⸀ഊ ਀吀栀攀 挀漀洀洀攀渀琀猀 洀愀搀攀 椀渀 琀栀攀猀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀 愀爀攀 渀漀琀 渀攀挀攀猀猀愀爀椀氀礀 洀礀 瘀椀攀眀瀀漀椀渀琀猀⸀ 䤀 洀愀欀攀 渀漀 挀氀愀椀洀猀 愀猀 琀漀 琀栀攀 愀挀挀甀爀愀挀礀 漀昀 琀栀攀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀 最椀瘀攀渀 戀礀 琀栀攀 椀渀搀椀瘀椀搀甀愀氀 愀甀琀栀漀爀猀⸀ഊ ਀倀氀攀愀猀攀 爀攀猀瀀攀挀琀 琀栀攀 琀椀洀攀 愀渀搀 攀昀昀漀爀琀猀 漀昀 琀栀漀猀攀 眀栀漀 栀愀瘀攀 眀爀椀琀琀攀渀 琀栀攀猀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 挀漀瀀礀爀椀最栀琀 猀琀愀琀甀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀 椀猀 甀渀挀氀攀愀爀 愀琀 琀栀椀猀 琀椀洀攀⸀ 䤀昀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀 椀猀 瀀甀戀氀椀猀栀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀猀攀 洀攀猀猀愀最攀猀Ⰰ 瀀氀攀愀猀攀 最椀瘀攀 挀爀攀搀椀琀 琀漀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀琀漀爀⠀猀⤀⸀ഊ ਀吀栀愀渀欀 礀漀甀Ⰰഊ Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous ਀                                          匀琀攀昀愀渀 愀琀 昀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀漀爀最ഊ************************************************************************ ਀ഊFrom: TACON019 at ysub.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom) ਀䐀愀琀攀㨀 ㄀㔀 䨀甀渀 㤀㄀ ㈀㄀㨀　㠀㨀　㤀 䜀䴀吀ഊOrganization: Youngstown State University VM system (YSUB) ਀ഊThe following article may be of interest to those of you discussing the ਀挀漀氀漀爀 最爀攀攀渀⸀ഊ ਀ⴀ䘀爀攀搀ഊ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ਀䘀爀攀搀 匀⸀ 唀氀氀漀洀ഊtacon019 at ysub.ysu.edu ਀夀漀甀渀最猀琀漀眀渀 匀琀愀琀攀 唀渀椀瘀攀爀猀椀琀礀ഊ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ਀ഊLINCOLN GREEN by Sandra Sardeson ਀ഊ(Reprinted without permission from The Journal for Weavers, Spinners, ਀愀渀搀 䐀礀攀爀猀Ⰰ 嘀漀氀⸀ ㄀㔀㠀Ⰰ 䄀瀀爀椀氀 ㄀㤀㤀㄀⸀⤀ഊ ਀吀栀攀 渀愀洀攀 愀渀搀 昀愀洀攀 漀昀 䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 䜀爀攀攀渀 栀愀猀 氀椀瘀攀搀 氀漀渀最 愀昀琀攀爀 椀琀 挀攀愀猀攀搀 琀漀ഊbe manufactured, thanks to Robin Hood and his merry men of Sherwood ਀䘀漀爀攀猀琀⸀ ✀圀栀攀渀 琀栀攀礀 眀攀爀攀 挀氀漀琀栀攀搀 椀渀 䰀礀渀挀漀氀渀攀 最爀攀渀攀 琀栀攀礀 欀攀猀琀 愀眀愀礀 琀栀攀椀爀ഊgray' comes from A LYTELL GESTE OF ROBYN HODE circa 1510. In his ਀䘀䄀䤀刀䤀䔀 儀唀䔀䔀一 䔀搀洀甀渀搀 匀瀀攀渀猀攀爀 ⠀挀椀爀挀愀 ㄀㔀㔀㈀ⴀ㤀㤀⤀ 栀愀猀 琀栀攀 氀椀渀攀猀 ✀䄀氀氀 椀渀 愀ഊwoodman's jacket he was clad of Lincolne Greene, belay'd with silver ਀氀愀挀攀⸀✀ 䴀椀挀栀愀攀氀 䐀爀愀礀琀漀渀 ⠀㄀㔀㘀㌀ⴀ㄀㘀㌀㄀⤀ 眀爀漀琀攀 ✀匀眀愀椀渀猀 椀渀 猀栀攀瀀栀攀爀搀✀猀 最爀愀礀ഊand girls in Lincolne greene.' The latter added a marginal note ਀✀䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀攀 愀渀挀椀攀渀琀氀礀 搀礀攀搀 琀栀攀 戀攀猀琀 最爀攀攀渀攀 漀昀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀✀ 猀甀最最攀猀琀椀渀最 琀栀愀琀ഊLincoln Green was very much a thing of the past even by the early ਀猀攀瘀攀渀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀⸀ഊ ਀吀栀攀 爀攀挀漀爀搀攀搀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 昀漀爀 䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 䜀爀攀攀渀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀琀椀漀渀 椀猀 瘀攀爀礀 猀瀀愀爀猀攀 愀渀搀ഊfragmentary. Sir Francis Hill's classic work MEDIEVAL LINCOLN, which ਀栀愀猀 爀攀挀攀渀琀氀礀 戀攀攀渀 爀攀瀀爀椀渀琀攀搀 愀昀琀攀爀 愀 最愀瀀 漀昀 琀眀攀渀琀礀ⴀ昀椀瘀攀 礀攀愀爀猀 ⠀椀琀 眀愀猀ഊfirst published in 1948) took twenty years to produce and it contains ਀眀栀愀琀 昀攀眀 爀攀昀攀爀攀渀挀攀猀 愀爀攀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀⸀ഊ ਀䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 猀挀愀爀氀攀琀 眀愀猀 琀栀攀 洀漀猀琀 攀砀瀀攀渀猀椀瘀攀 ⠀猀挀愀爀氀攀琀 猀椀最渀椀昀礀椀渀最 琀栀攀 挀氀漀琀栀ഊoriginally, not the colour). In 1198 the Sheriff of Lincoln bought ਀渀椀渀攀琀礀 攀氀氀猀 ⠀愀戀漀甀琀 ㄀㄀㈀ 礀愀爀搀猀⤀ 漀昀 猀挀愀爀氀攀琀 挀氀漀琀栀 昀漀爀 䰀㌀　 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀攀ഊcloth was a finely finished high quality fabric it seems almost ਀挀攀爀琀愀椀渀 琀栀愀琀 椀琀猀 栀椀最栀 瀀爀椀挀攀 眀愀猀 搀甀攀 洀愀椀渀氀礀 琀漀 琀栀攀 攀砀琀爀攀洀攀氀礀 挀漀猀琀氀礀ഊdye-stuff 'greyne' (graine) from Kermes or scarlet grain, a small ਀椀渀猀攀挀琀 爀攀猀攀洀戀氀椀渀最 琀栀愀琀 眀栀椀挀栀 瀀爀漀瘀椀搀攀猀 琀栀攀 搀礀攀 挀漀挀栀椀渀攀愀氀⸀ഊ ਀䤀渀 ㄀㄀㠀㈀ 琀栀攀 匀栀攀爀椀昀昀 漀昀 䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 戀漀甀最栀琀㨀ഊ Scarlet at 6s 8d/ell ਀        䜀爀攀攀渀 ⠀漀爀 昀椀渀攀 挀氀漀琀栀⤀ 愀琀 ㌀猀⼀攀氀氀ഊ Blanchet also at 3s/ell ਀        䜀爀愀礀 愀琀 愀瀀瀀爀漀砀椀洀愀琀攀氀礀 ㄀猀 㠀搀⼀攀氀氀ഊ (an ell is about equal to a yard.) ਀⠀吀栀椀猀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀 椀猀 搀攀爀椀瘀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀 愀爀挀栀椀瘀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 倀椀瀀攀 刀漀氀氀ഊSociety.) ਀ഊLincoln green was therefore the middle grade or quality of cloth ਀瀀爀漀搀甀挀攀搀⸀ 䤀琀 眀愀猀 昀椀爀猀琀 搀礀攀搀 戀氀甀攀 眀椀琀栀 眀漀愀搀 愀渀搀 琀栀攀渀 漀瘀攀爀搀礀攀搀 礀攀氀氀漀眀ഊwith either weld or dyers' greenweed. Woad was grown commercially in ਀䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀猀栀椀爀攀 昀漀爀 栀甀渀搀爀攀搀猀 漀昀 礀攀愀爀猀Ⰰ 挀攀爀琀愀椀渀氀礀 昀爀漀洀 䔀氀椀稀愀戀攀琀栀愀渀 琀椀洀攀猀Ⰰഊwhen its cultivation was encouraged to depress importation. Claxby, in ਀䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀猀栀椀爀攀Ⰰ 眀愀猀 愀 挀攀渀琀爀攀 漀昀 挀甀氀琀椀瘀愀琀椀漀渀 搀甀爀椀渀最 琀栀愀琀 琀椀洀攀 愀渀搀 氀愀琀攀爀ഊdurning the reign of James 1 at Wykeham Grange near Spalding. It was ਀最爀漀眀渀 椀渀 琀栀攀 䘀攀渀猀 愀猀 爀攀挀攀渀琀氀礀 愀猀 ㄀㤀㌀㠀 戀甀琀 愀昀琀攀爀 琀栀椀猀 挀甀氀琀椀瘀愀琀椀漀渀 眀愀猀ഊnot continued when Skirbeck Woad Mill ceased production. ਀ഊIn this century the importation of indigo, which produced a better ਀猀琀爀漀渀最攀爀 戀氀甀攀 氀攀猀猀 攀砀瀀攀渀猀椀瘀攀氀礀Ⰰ 挀漀渀琀爀椀戀甀琀攀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 搀攀洀椀猀攀 漀昀 眀漀愀搀ഊcultivation although, after 1878 and the invention of artificial ਀椀渀搀椀最漀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 挀爀漀瀀 栀愀搀 戀攀挀漀洀攀 氀攀猀猀 挀漀洀洀攀爀挀椀愀氀氀礀 瘀椀愀戀氀攀⸀ ✀䈀氀愀渀挀栀攀琀✀ 挀氀漀琀栀ഊmay have been dyed a pale blue using woad, or this could have been ਀戀氀攀愀挀栀攀搀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 氀椀琀琀氀攀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 漀昀 戀氀攀愀挀栀椀渀最 愀琀 琀栀椀猀 攀愀爀氀礀ഊdate. This is in contrast to, for instance, gray which was undyed and ਀椀渀琀攀渀搀攀搀 昀漀爀 攀瘀攀爀礀搀愀礀 甀猀攀⸀ഊ ਀倀爀椀漀爀 琀漀 琀栀攀 䴀椀搀搀氀攀 䄀最攀猀 挀氀漀琀栀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀琀椀漀渀 眀愀猀 愀 搀漀洀攀猀琀椀挀 椀渀搀甀猀琀爀礀 愀琀ഊthe level of that which we would today describe as 'cottage' but after ਀琀栀椀猀 琀椀洀攀 椀渀挀爀攀愀猀椀渀最氀礀 椀琀 戀攀挀愀洀攀 甀爀戀愀渀椀猀攀搀 爀攀猀甀氀琀椀渀最 椀渀 最爀攀愀琀攀爀ഊyardage production. By 1216 three textile craft guilds were ਀攀猀琀愀戀氀椀猀栀攀搀 椀渀 䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 ⴀ 琀栀攀 圀攀愀瘀攀爀✀Ⰰ 䐀礀攀爀猀✀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 䘀甀氀氀攀爀猀✀ 最甀椀氀搀猀⸀ഊCollectively these produced the high quality scarlet cloth, Lincoln ਀最爀攀攀渀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 最爀愀礀⸀ 䤀渀 ㄀㠀㄀㌀Ⰰ 䄀爀琀栀甀爀 夀漀甀渀最Ⰰ 琀栀愀琀 瀀爀漀搀椀最椀漀甀猀 眀爀椀琀攀爀ഊon all agricultural matters, noted that woad was being cultivated for ਀攀砀瀀漀爀琀 琀漀 琀栀攀 洀愀渀甀昀愀挀琀漀爀椀攀猀 漀昀 夀漀爀欀猀栀椀爀攀 愀渀搀 䰀愀渀挀愀猀琀攀爀 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 戀礀ഊthis time the production of Lincoln green had ceased many years ਀戀攀昀漀爀攀⸀ഊ ਀䤀渀 ㄀㤀㠀㐀 琀漀 挀漀椀渀挀椀搀攀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 椀洀瀀漀爀琀愀渀琀 攀砀栀椀戀椀琀椀漀渀 ✀䰀椀渀挀漀氀渀 挀漀洀攀猀 漀昀ഊage - 21 hundred years of Lincoln's history' Lincoln scarlet, green ਀愀渀搀 最爀愀礀 眀攀爀攀 愀最愀椀渀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀攀搀 琀漀 爀攀猀攀洀戀氀攀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 琀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀⸀ഊ ਀⨀⨀⨀ 攀渀搀 漀昀 愀爀琀椀挀氀攀 ⨀⨀⨀ഊ ਀㰀琀栀攀 攀渀搀㸀ഊEdited by Mark S. Harris green-art Page 3 of 3 ਀ഊ