embroidery-SW-msg - 11/18/97
Period "stumpwork" embroidery. Information sources. A type of embroidery incorporating raised, padded thread-word to create a three-dimensional pattern.
NOTE: See also the files: embroidery-msg, emb-linen-msg, emb-frames-msg, emb-blackwork-msg, cross-stitch-msg, p-x-stitch-art.
************************************************************************
NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
************************************************************************
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 22:30:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Carol at Small Churl Books <scbooks at neca.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Stumpwork
>Does anyone know of any books containing patterns and directions for
>period stumpwork?
I will dig in my pile of photocopies during the next week and see if I can
find anything useful.
>In "Stumpwork Embroidery" Jane Nicholas says it was practiced in England
>between 1650 and 1700. This is a terrific book, but the author designed
>all the patterns herself and the introduction even says that she has not
>even tried to duplicate 17th century stumpwork.
It looks like the Elizabethan patterns of embroidery, but with parts raised
up. I believe that they had wooden pieces that would fill out a skirt on a
figure, for example.
>Can any of you comment on this book and on stumpwork in general? Was it
>used on clothing? What was done with the finished pieces?
The few examples I've seen pictures of were one or two boxes - covered with
embroidered cloth - and (I think) a picture frame. No clothes examples that
I know of.
>Has anyone done any stumpwork? Is it difficult to learn? Was it really
>only done for a 50 year period?
Never tried it & don't know how long it was around. (Afraid I lose interest
quickly after 1603.) It was an odd, specialized pastime, I think.
>Like I don't have enough SCA interests without attempting stumpwork...
Nobody here but us maniacs!
Lady Carllein
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 01:54:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: EowynA at aol.com
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Stumpwork
Hi!
There was an inquiry about stumpwork (a largely post-period embroidery style
used on boxes [caskets] and picture frames and such, and not to my knowledge
on clothing).
I met Jane Nicholas last September at the Embroiderer's Guild of America's
National Seminar, and saw her stunningly beautiful sample pieces (I'd have
taken her class--it was my second choice --if I hadn't gotten into my first
choice class on Elizabethan stitching styles). Her designs are original, but
she has based them on historical models. But her historical is our
post-period. Many of the same stitches were used in Elizabethan-era
embroidery, and some of the Elizabethan examples were even stuffed to make
them fluff up.
But from what I have found (and I have been reasonably intensely researching
Elizabethan embroidery for the past year and a half, mostly because of the
aforesaid class), stumpwork was not really Elizabethan. I'd say 1650 is a
little late as a choice of date for the first appearance, but 1600 is a
little early.
For articles on Elizabethan embroidery, those in Caid can look up some of my
articles the Ars Caidis magazine (Kingdom arts quarterly -- mail
ArsCaidis at aol.com for subscription info and back issues).
For another book on Stumpwork, contact Baroness Xena at Hedgehog Handworks --
she has at least one other book on stumpwork that I have heard explains the
process a bit better, but since the projects were more modern, I skipped over
it. I don't recall the title or author, but I know she carries it. The
little stumpwork I've tried is lots of fun, but I'm concentrating on the
earlier stuff at the moment.
Hope that helps!
Eowyn Amberdrake (Caid)
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 07:53:46 -0400
From: Margo Lynn Hablutzel <Hablutzel at compuserve.com>
To: "INTERNET:sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: Stumpwork
As I recall, and I have seen a few examples, stumpwork was used for
pictures and other objects, NOT on clothing. It used padding (I have not
seen wood, but cotton and related stuff) to make the work
three-dimensional. In the little exhibit of ecclesiastical garb at the Art
Institute of Chicago last year, they had an incredible stumpwork cross, all
three-dimensional figures nicely dressed.
If you are interested in stumpwork, check a compendium of embroidery from
period, I think there are a few books that discuss historical embroidery
but it is not my field. The pieces I recall are mostly allegorical scenes
or bits from stories, with maybe one that depicted recent history.
---= Morgan
|\ THIS is the cutting edge of technology!
8+%%%%%%%%I=================================================---
|/ Morgan Cely Cain * Hablutzel at compuserve.com
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 12:53:28 EDT
From: kathe1 at juno.com (Kathleen M Everitt)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Stumpwork
On Sun, 4 May 1997 18:35:16 -0700 (PDT) barbara shuwarger
<bshuwarg at lausd.k12.ca.us> writes:
>Does anyone know of any books containing patterns and directions for
>period stumpwork?
>
>In "Stumpwork Embroidery" Jane Nicholas says it was practiced in England
>between 1650 and 1700. This is a terrific book, but the author designed
>all the patterns herself and the introduction even says that she has not
>even tried to duplicate 17th century stumpwork.
>
>Can any of you comment on this book and on stumpwork in general? Was it
>used on clothing? What was done with the finished pieces?
>
>Has anyone done any stumpwork? Is it difficult to learn? Was it really
>only done for a 50 year period?
>
>Like I don't have enough SCA interests without attempting stumpwork...
>
>Helisenne
Stumpwork was at its height around 1650, but it was practiced before
1600. Most of the large boxes that we see pictures of when "Stumpwork" is
mentioned are out of period, but there are a number of other existing
pieces that are in period.
Attached are notes and bibliography about Stumpwork from a class that I
taught for Athena's Thimble, the East Kingdom Embroidery Guild. Sorry the
notes are so sketchy, but I typed them up the day before I taught the
class, and all I wanted were reminders of what I had been reading for
several weeks before. The class was on all forms of Padded work, so not
all of the books in the bibliography include information on Stumpwork.
Someplace I have a list of pictures of period Stumpwork (as well as a lot
of stuff that's too late for us). If I can find it, I'll post it later.
I haven't tried Stumpwork yet, but I'm researching and planning a box
that I hope to start soon. If you have any other questions, I would be
glad to try to answer them.
Julleran
STUMPWORK -
History -
derived from Trapunto
called "embosted" in England, "brodees en relief" On Continent
name specific to embroideries from 15th - 17th C using various
materials to decorate and raised by stumps of wood or pads of wool.
15th C - ecclesiastic work in Germany, Austria, Hungary, Italy
Elizabethan - satin gauntlets, book covers
Reached height in 17th C with boxes, mirror frames and wall
hangings of Stuart Period.
Materials -
ground - White, ivory or cream satin, Linen, silk, taffeta silk
padding - wood, wool, wax, linen, rags, hemp, horsehair
decorations - cords, metal treads, cardboard, leather, silk,
lace, brocade, precious stones, gold leaf, hair, seed pearls, sheet
metal, wood, wax, wire, braids, vellum, feathers, mica, paint, beads,
spangles
Stitches - detached buttonhole, couching, underside couching, bullion
knot, seeding, chain, velvet, tent, stem, gobelin, long and short,
rococo, petit-point, French knots, laid stitches, burden, satin, brick
Motifs - people, animals (especially those in royal badges, castles,
fountains, trees, flowers, Biblical, political, myths, legends,
allegories
Bibliography
Best, Muriel. Stumpwork, London: BT Batsford, 1987.
Cavallo, Adolph S. Needlework, NY: Cooper-Hewitt Museum, 1979.
Christie, Grace. Embroidery and Tapestry Weaving, New York:
Taplinger Publishing, 1979.
Colby, Averil. Quilting, London: BT Batsford,
Dean, Beryl. Ecclesiastical Embroidery, London: BT Batsford, 1958.
Endacott, Violet M. Design in Embroidery, NY: Bonanza Books, 1964.
Gostelow, Mary. The Complete guide to Needlework, NY: Chartwell
Books, 1982.
Hinson, Delores A. Quilting Manual, NY: Dover Books, 1966.
Hirst, Barbara and Roy. Raised Embroidery, London: Merchurst
Limited, 1993.
King, Donald and Levey, Santina. The Victoria and Albert Museum
Textile Collection, NY: Canopy Books, 1993.
MacQuoid, Percy. English Furniture, Tapestry and Needlework of the
XVIth-XIXth Centuries, London: BT Batsford,
McNeill, Moyra. Quilting,
Morgan, Mary and Mosteller, Dee. Trapunto and other Forms of Raised
Quilting, NY: Charles Scribner's Sons,
Schuette, Marie and Muller-Christansen, Sigrid. A Pictorial History of
Embroidery, NY: Frederick A. Praeger, 1964.
Swift, Gay. The Batsford Encyclopedia of Embroidery Techniques,
London: B.T. Batsford, 1984.
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 10:48:59 -0700
From: Charlene Noto <charlenn at MICROSOFT.com>
To: "'sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu'" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: RE: Stumpwork
> From: barbara shuwarger[SMTP:bshuwarg at lausd.k12.ca.us]
>
> Does anyone know of any books containing patterns and directions for
> period stumpwork?
In A Pictorial History of Embroidery, there are several plates depicting
some beautiful raised embroidery that looks remarkedly like stumpwork.
I think it was 1400's. Sorry. Don't have my references here at work.
-Deirdre
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 18:03:59 -0500
From: theodelinda at webtv.net (linda webb)
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Stumpwork
The Victoria and Albert Museum has examples of Elizabethan guildmasters
crowns done in raised embroidery, which is the step before full-blown
stumpwork--These are velvet circlets with embroidery on them. The one I
recall best has a pattern of leaves and flowers, with a crest in the
center. I believe most, if not all, of the embroidery, including the
raised work, is in metal threads.--Theo
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 20:16:51 EDT
From: tourdion at juno.com
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Stumpwork
On page 38 of Pauline Johnstone's Three Hundred Years of Embroidery 1600
- 1900 (Wakefield Press) there is a fine (color!) picture of an early
17th century woman's coif that has lovely 3 dimensional peapod that has
the top portion of the pod peeled back to reveal the golden peas within.
I also suspect from looking at this picture that the blue butterfly wings
are worked in 3 dimension and wired to stand out as well. Page 37 also
shows some 3 dimensional peapods but these are not as obvious as the one
on page 38.
>From these examples it is my educated guess that they started out using
flatter motifs on embroidered clothing articles and later developed the
more rounded figures which they worked on boxes and whatnots that
received less wear and tear than clothes.
As for where they got patterns, the same book mentions "biblical
illustrations engraved and published by Gerard de Jode in Antwerp in 1585
after drawings by Martin de Vos, under the titles 'Thesaurus sacrarum
historiarum Veteris Testamenti', and 'Thesaurus Novi Testamenti'" as well
as pattern books by engravers and publishers Peter Stent and John Overton
which included flowers, animals, maps, biblical scenes, and so on. There
is also a book that was done by Thomas Trevalyon in the late 1500's that
was evidently immensely popular, for a number of the extant women's coifs
I've seen have come directly out of his book (going off of shear
brainpower on this particular book which is why I can't get more specific
- I just remember copying several pages of a facsimile of it at the
Library of Congress). I also recall someone mentioning Gerard's Herbal as
a resource for patterns once as well.
Elspeth nic Cormac
Meridies
<the end>