Home Page

Stefan's Florilegium

applique-msg



This document is also available in: text or RTF formats.

applique-msg - 1/26/08

 

Ideas and suggestions for applying applique. Use in period.

 

NOTE: See also the files: Herald-Embro-art, banners-msg, sewing-msg, tapestries-msg, glues-msg, fabric-paint-msg.

 

************************************************************************

NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I  have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given by the individual authors.

 

Please  respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The  copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear at this time. If  information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 15:41:21 -0700 (PDT)

From: lifitz at wco.com (Conny Fitzsimmons)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

>Once again my optimism has outpaced my abilities! I recently bought some

>lovely fabric which has a circular pattern with a cross woven into it. I

>don't know the fabric content, but I believe it is synthetic. It could pass

>for a silk however.

>

>My original plan was to embroider over the circles and crosses first, then

>cut them apart and applique them in rows onto the hem of a cyclas. However,

>everyone I've talked to locally is discouraging me from trying this. They

>say it can be nearly impossible to have the circles look right after they

>have been stitched on. Having seen one person's attempt at something

>similar, I can believe this.

>

>I've washed the fabric in hot water, and it came through with flying

>colors, except that it ravelled badly on the raw edges. Now I'm afraid that

>even if I decide to try this project, I'll run into problems with the

>circles disolving beneath my fingertips as I work. Maybe Fraychek would

>help?

>

>-Margritte

 

Do not be discouraged   it is possible to do what you are attempting.  I

would suggest that you go to a really good quild shop in your area and have

then teach you how to applique.    You will need to put your fabric in a

hoop.   I would suggest you cut your circles out, then back with light

weight fabric,  bast the two together, then mount in your embroidery hoop.

Do your embroidery  cut your circle out about 1/4 inch larger than the

finished you want.   very carefully clip the fabric around the edge of the

circle turn under the quarter inch pin and baste onto your dress, then

applique into place using a blind applique stitch.   Have the quild shop

show you how.  This is done all the time on quilts    Then remove very

carefully all of the basting stitches.

 

I embroider using silk floss on very light weight silk and this works for me.

I also baste around the silk near the cut edge as the silk wil simply

unravel at an alarming rate.  Even while it is in the hoop.

 

Hope this helps.

Lady Catherine Lorraine

Arts Officer Principality of the Mists

 

 

Date: 28 Jul 1997 12:03:13 -0700

From: "Marisa Herzog" <marisa_herzog at macmail.ucsc.edu>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

[on fastening some embroidered circles onto a piece of cloth]

 

>>even if I decide to try this project, I'll run into problems with the

circles disolving beneath my fingertips as I work. Maybe Fraychek would help?

 

>>Any suggestions are welcome. My thanks to all.

 

"stitchwitch"  comes in sheets and strips of varying sizes.  It is an iron on

applique glue thingy.  It has a backing so that you can stick it to the

applique material- cut it out, work with it- then peel the backing off and

iron your applique to the base.  It is not sturdy enough to last on its own,

more like a stay/basting stitch to tack things down so you donŐt have to worry

about them moving.

 

If you use this it will help with unravelling & help keep the integrity of you

circles while you bead and embroider them, and work better than pins to hold

yor pieces in place while you sew them to the final project.

 

Other than that just try not to have too much tension in your embroidery, that

way your fabric won't pucker and bunch.  you can always do touch up work

through both the applique and the base material.

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 16:20:01 -0400

From: Donna Kenton <donna at dabbler.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

One other trick:  cut out the circles, leaving a good margin.  Sew this

to iron-on interfacing, with the fusible side facing the right side.

Sew it completely around.  Trim the seam allowance close to the

stitching.

 

Next, make a small slit in the interfacing, and turn the circle right

side out.  Use your fingers to make it as flat as possible where you've

got the seam.

 

You should have the right side of the fabric facing out, all the raw

edges on the inside, and the fusible side of the interfacing should be

available to press it to the fabric.

 

If you use the fusible web (Wonder Under and Trans-Web are brand names

of it), it comes on a paper backing.  Iron the fusible web to the ironed

fabric.  Then you can cut out the designs, peel off the paper backing,

position to the fabric, and iron in place.

 

Regardless of which method you use, iron-on isn't recommended as a

permanent means of fastening the circles.  You'll want to stitch them on

as well.  The cording sounds like an excellent idea.

 

One thing to be particularly careful about -- the circles can easily

distort as you iron them.  If you're not careful, you may end up with

ellipses instead of true circles.

 

Good luck!

Rosalinde

--

Donna Kenton * Rosalinde De Witte * donna at dabbler.com *

http://www.dabbler.com/

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 16:21:15 -0400 (EDT)

From: DianaFiona at aol.com

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

In a message dated 97-07-28 14:42:08 EDT, you write:

 

<<

I've washed the fabric in hot water, and it came through with flying

colors, except that it ravelled badly on the raw edges. Now I'm afraid that

even if I decide to try this project, I'll run into problems with the

circles disolving beneath my fingertips as I work. Maybe Fraychek would

help?

Any suggestions are welcome. My thanks to all.

-Margritte

  >>

     Fraychek is certainly a possiblity, but I think my first choice would be

to try iron-on stabilizer. It may make the fabric harder to applique--or it

make it easier. One thing to try is to cut out circles of sturdy paper or

cadboard the exact size of the fabric circles. Cut out the fabric circles

with about a half inch seam allowance, place the paper on top (Wrong side

up), and iron the fabric's hem down over this template. It may also help to

run a basting stitch around the fabric in the seam allowance and pull this to

gather it a bit, then slip the template inside and press.

    All in all it can be a lot of bother--and I'd certainly try it on a

sample or two *before* I did all the embroidery.............. But then, I

tend to think embroidery is a lot of bother anyway, no matter how much I love

the looks of it! ;-)

 

Ldy Diana, who will sit fiddling with clay or jewelry for hours, but gets

bored with hand sewing before she starts!

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 16:35:50 -0400

From: Donna Kenton <donna at dabbler.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

DianaFiona at aol.com wrote:

 

> One thing to try is to cut out circles of sturdy paper or

> cadboard the exact size of the fabric circles. Cut out the fabric

> circles

> with about a half inch seam allowance, place the paper on top (Wrong

> side

> up), and iron the fabric's hem down over this template. It may also

> help to

> run a basting stitch around the fabric in the seam allowance and pull

> this to

> gather it a bit, then slip the template inside and press.

 

The paper template trick is an English pieced applique technique.  The

paper is cut to the exact size and the fabric is basted to that to make

sure it stays precise.  For quilts, the paper was often left inside, but

I wouldn't recommend that for a garment.

 

If you want to try the paper-piecing, you could try using freezer

paper.  That can be ironed onto the fabric to give it some stability,

rather than basting it on.  Unlike the fusible webs, this will be

removed, and you won't have the remaining stiffness. There's a version

of this kind of paper in the quilting section of most fabric stores, and

it's gridded to make it easier to keep the size correct.

 

Rosalinde

--

Donna Kenton * Rosalinde De Witte * donna at dabbler.com *

http://www.dabbler.com/

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 15:53:13 -0700

From: ladymari at GILA.NET (Mary Hysong)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

Margritte wrote:

[snipped]

 

> My original plan was to embroider over the circles and crosses first,

> then

> cut them apart and applique them in rows onto the hem of a cyclas.

> However,

> everyone I've talked to locally is discouraging me from trying this.

> They

> say it can be nearly impossible to have the circles look right after

> they

> have been stitched on. Having seen one person's attempt at something

> similar, I can believe this.

 

[snipped]

Margritte,

Is this a slick, satin weave fabric? Whatever you do it may get a bit

distorted.  You might try embroidering in the whole peice by using a

frame to keep the tension even, and you might also add a thin smooth

cotton fabric behind it, basting the two layers together within the

future seam allowance of the circles.  (I used to make a lot of dresses

and western shirts out of this stuff, creeps around everywhere, very

difficult to control under the presser foot of the sewing machine unless

you pin the daylights out of it} Or you might try cutting the circles

and adding the cotton behind, then embroidering them individually. Or

even stretch the cotton out in a frame and baste the individual circles

down to it, embroider through both layers, then trim the cotton backing

down to the size of the basting.(I would use 100% cotton well washed and

shrunk so no further shrinkage will occur and so that your needle will

slide through it easily).

 

When you get ready to applique, here's an easy way to get a nice even

seam allowance: cut the circle to  size  plus seam allowance. Baste,

using your sewing machine and the guideline on it for the proper seam

allowance.  Clip little 'V's of material out of the seam allowance, the

points reaching almost to but not through the line of basting.  Now

press the seam allownce back, just rolling the line of basting far

enough to be to the back of the peice.  I used this method when peicing

a quilt with all curved seams, then stitched them together on that seam

line, every peice lay flat and precise, no puckers or wrinkles any

where.  The extra step was certainly worth  not having the aggravation

of trying to sew two curves together!

 

Hope this helps, if it's clear as mud, let me know what doesn't make

sense and I'll try again--so hard not to be able to talk with my hands,

you know!

Mairi

--

Mary Hysong <Lady Mairi Broder, Atenveldt Kingdom Scribe> and  Curtis

Edenfield <The C-Man>

 

 

Date: Mon, 28 Jul 97 18:19:55 -0500

From: Irene leNoir <irene at ici.net>

To: "sca-arts" <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Applique for Circles

 

Margritte,

>My original plan was to embroider over the circles and crosses first, then

>cut them apart and applique them in rows onto the hem of a cyclas.

However,

>everyone I've talked to locally is discouraging me from trying this. They

>say it can be nearly impossible to have the circles look right after they

>have been stitched on. Having seen one person's attempt at something

>similar, I can believe this.

 

There is no reason why your idea should not work.  Never let someone

else discourage you from attempting a technique.  At the very least,

give it a try.  You may find that it comes much more naturally to you

than it does to them.  And even if it doesn't, at least you tried.

 

The way that I would do it would be as follows:

 

1. Mount the whole piece of fabric in an embroidery hoop. Do not cut

it up into the circles first.  When you mount it, you should make

sure that the circles are true, and not distorted. However, do not

make the common mistake of mounting the fabric stretched very tight.  

The embroidery hoop is to keep the fabric square and flat, but not

taut.  If you pull the fabric too taut, you will not be able to tell

if your tension is too tight, and the fabric might pucker when you

release it from the hoop.  This could be why the example that you saw

did not work.  The fabric should have just enough play so that when

you look at it in the hoop without touching it, it looks flat, but if

you poke the center of the fabric, it gives just slightly.

 

2. Embroider over the circle and cross motifs.  With the fabric

mounted properly in the hoop, you should be able to tell if you are

using the right tension.  Your stitches should lay flat across the

surface of the fabric, but not pull at it.

 

3. Outline the circles with fray-check.  The fray-check should come

right up to the embroidery, but not quite touch it, and extend out

about 3/8".  When you apply the fray-check, remember that it tends to

spread across the fabric from the point at which it is applied, so

start further away, and slowly work your way towards the embroidery.

Let the fray-check dry completely - about 1/2 hour.

 

4. Cut the circles out, cutting through the fray-checked area,

leaving about a 1/4" allowance around the circles.

 

5. Turn the extra fabric under and finger-press the edge of the fold.

It might help to sew a running stitch around the allowance first and

use this to help gather the excess to the back.  If you do use the

running stitch, pull the thread ends until you have sufficient gather

and then tie a knot.  There is no need to remove the gathering

thread, as it will be hidden once you applique the circles into

place.  Place the embroidered motif face up on your ironing board

and, with a press cloth (to protect the embroidery), lightly

press/steam the motif to get the allowances to stay flat against the

back.

 

6. Place your motifs where you want them on your cyclas hem, and

baste them in place.  Do not pin them in place, as the pins can cause

them to pucker.  This also might be a reason that the attempt that

you saw failed.  Stitch the motifs down and outline (with cord) if

desired.

 

A couple of notes:

>I've washed the fabric in hot water, and it came through with flying

>colors, except that it ravelled badly on the raw edges. Now I'm afraid

that

>even if I decide to try this project, I'll run into problems with the

>circles disolving beneath my fingertips as I work. Maybe Fraychek would

>help?

You might want to fray-check the raw edges of the fabric before you

mount it in the embroidery hoop.

 

Also, how closely the circles are spaced on the fabric may affect how

well the above technique will work.  You do not want to mount your

fabric in the embroidery hoop so that areas that you have already

embroidered are caught in the hoop.  However, depending on the

relative sizes of the circles and your hoop, this may mean that you

will have to leave certain circles un-embroidered, as a sort of

hoop-allowance.

 

If your piece of fabric is too narrow to fit in the hoop, you might

be able to sew some waste fabric to the edges/sides to give the hoop

enough fabric to grip.  If you do this, be sure to sew the extensions

on straight.  If you do it crooked, you may wind up with a non-flat

piece of fabric, which can affect how well it rests in the hoop.

 

A technique that I find works very well is to outline your embroidery

with a stem stitch done with a larger number of strands than the rest

of your stitches.  (For example: if you stitch the motif with 3

strands, try using 6 for the stem stitch.)  When you fold the edges

under, the stem stitch kind-of rotates to become the edge. Then, you

can stitch between the stem-stitches to sew the motif down.  If you

use a matching thread to do the stitching down, the sitiches

disappear or blend in.  When completed, the edging looks surprisingly

like you have couched cording around the motif, and this way, you

dont have to figure out what to do with the cord-ends.

 

Good luck with your project.  I would love to hear how it turns out.

 

P.S.  Where do you live?  Are you heading to Pennsic?  If you would

like, (and If we can meet up), I would be happy to show you examples

of appliqued embroidered circles that I have done.

________________________________

Jessica I. Clark

SCA: Baroness Ir=E8ne leNoir

jessica at ici.net or irene at ici.net

 

 

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 09:58:00 -0500

From: Heather Watkins <hwatkins at kansaspipeline.com>

To: sca-arts at UKANS.EDU

Subject: Applique Circles

 

I use "wonder under" for all my appliquing.  I did an entire sideless

surcoat with my device and my lords on it.  Lots of curves, circles,

small lines. No problem.  You iron the wonder under to your fabric,

cut out the design with the paper backing still attached, iron your

applique pattern to the fabric to be stitched and away you go.

 

I have never had any trouble with puckering or slipping. I think

this sounds like  a beautiful idea and would give it a try.  Try it on a

piece of scrap first and then go.  The "wonder under" will also

help with your raveling problem.

 

Lady Qamara

 

 

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 21:29:15 -0400

From: Margo Lynn Hablutzel <Hablutzel at compuserve.com>

To: A&S List <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Applique Circles

 

I second what Rosalinde said.  Note that the stuff in quilting or sewing

stores has a tariff over regular grocery-store freezer paper.

 

Be sure to iron the shiny side to the fabric.  It melts very slightly so it

will stick, and therefore the paper offers a stiff backing and an edge if you are used to applique that way.  (I learned this method and now do

nothing else!)  However, you can pull the paper out afterwards, either by leaving a bit of the edge unstitched, or by cutting a slit in the backing and pulling it out, then you need to weave-stitch the backing together

again.

 

Cut the freezer paper to the same size as the finished applique, and cut

the fabric piece with a margin.  Place the fabric face-down, with the

freezer paper, shiny side down, over it.  You need to iron from the paper side at the hottest setting you can safely use.

 

                                        --- Morgan

 

 

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 18:27:39 -0700

From: ladymari at GILA.NET (Mary Hysong)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: WAS Applique Circles/Wonder Under

 

Heather Watkins wrote:

 

> I use "wonder under" for all my appliquing. I did an entire sideless

> surcoat with my device and my lords on it.  Lots of curves, circles,

> small lines. No problem.  You iron the wonder under to your fabric,

> cut out the design with the paper backing still attached, iron your

> applique pattern to the fabric to be stitched and away you go.

>

> I have never had any trouble with puckering or slipping.  I think

> this sounds like  a beautiful idea and would give it a try.  Try it on a

> piece of scrap first and then go.  The "wonder under" will also

> help with your raveling problem.

>

> Lady Qamara

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

Wonder Under is a wonder*ful product for some things, but for slinky

silky fabric I'd avoid it, it can cause color changes and shrinkage,

even scorching because of the heat needed to get a good seal.  Also

using any sort of iron on product under the area to be hand embroidered

will be murder on your fingers because it makes it stiff.

Just my opinion.

Mairi

--

Mary Hysong <Lady Mairi Broder> and  Curtis Edenfield <The C-Man>

 

 

Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 10:15:59 -0500

From: "I. Marc Carlson" <LIB_IMC at centum.utulsa.edu>

Subject: re: Garb/Applique Question

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

 

<"Erin and Conrad Harkiewicz" <erinandconrad at ibm.net>>

>I am very new around here, and I hope this is not a question that has been

>answered a million times before.

 

I haven't always been here, but I don't recall it being that common a

question - although it does seem fairly reasonable.

 

>As a newbie, I have been doing some extensive (for me anyway) research about

>historically correct garb, but there is one question that I haven't been

>able to find the answer to... were the heraldric symbols all and always

>embroidered, or were some of the larger elements appliqued?...

 

I'm afraid I don't have "the" answer for you, since I don't know if

there are any existing cloaks or cotes decorated as you describe (if

anyone knows of any PLEASE tell me), but I think the answer should be

fairly simple.  If we assume that you take the time and effort to

embroider a large piece on a cloak, and are happy with it and so forth,

and that cloak gets damaged, worn out, or in some other fashion is

made useless, what are you going to do with it?  Toss it into the trash

and start over (as is common in our modern culture)? Probably not.

You are more likely to cut it up to use the material for some other

tasks (burial shrouds, and caulking ships leap to mind, for example :) ).

But what about that embroidery you worked so hard on? It's cost you

time, effort and expense (after all you can't just hit Walmart for a

few more skeins of DMC at a few for a buck -- somebody has to handmake, spin

and dye, that floss - although it may well be someone else, depending on

when and where you are).  Do you shrug and use it for a wipe-rag OR do

you cut it off, and applique it elsewhere?  Just seems to make sense to

me.

 

To verify this, I asked and was told by my Costumer that Applique work

was *very* common in late period embroidery.  So my thought is, g'head.

If people bitch, tell them Diarmaid said it was period and give them

my e-mail address :)

 

Marc/Diarmaid O'Duinn

lib_imc at centum.utulsa.edu

 

 

From: priest at NOSPAMvassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Garb/Applique Question

Date: 1 May 1998 18:58:56 GMT

Organization: Vassar College

 

Azalais de Miraval (erinandconrad at ibm.net) wrote:

>were the heraldric symbols all and always

>embroidered, or were some of the larger elements appliqued?

 

There are extant medieval applique and reverse applique pieces including some

heraldic ones.  For starters, see the section on applique in Kay Staniland's

_Embroiderers_, in the Medieval Craftsman series (University of Toronto 1991),

which has a picture of a 13th century heraldic fragment, among others.

 

***************************************************************

Carolyn Priest-Dorman            Thora Sharptooth

capriest at cs.vassar.edu           Frostahlid, Austrrik

         Gules, three square weaver's tablets in bend Or

        http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/textileres.html

***************************************************************

 

 

Subject: Re: Garb/Applique Question

Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 07:01:02 -0400

From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)

To: stefan at texas.net

 

Unto Stefan li Rous, greeting from Thora Sharptooth!

 

You asked:

>What is reverse applique?

 

Applique is where you cut the design element out of one fabric and stitch it

to the top of a backing fabric.  Reverse applique is where you cut the

design shape out of the ground fabric and apply a second fabric either to

the *underside* or exactly into the cutout shape.  It's also sometimes

called "intarsia."

 

In some extant intarsia pieces (several medieval Scandinavian ones, probably

wall hangings, come to mind) the intersection of the two fabrics is hidden

by a couched strip of gilded leather or parchment to give the effect of a

corded outline.

 

*****************************************************************

Carolyn Priest-Dorman                 Thora Sharptooth

capriest at cs.vassar.edu                Frostahlid, Austrriki

         Gules, three square weaver's tablets in bend Or

          http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html

*****************************************************************

 

 

From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Garb/Applique Question

Date: 4 May 1998 05:13:59 GMT

Organization: University of California, Berkeley

 

Erin and Conrad Harkiewicz (erinandconrad at ibm.net) wrote:

: As a newbie, I have been doing some extensive (for me anyway) research about

: historically correct garb, but there is one question that I haven't been

: able to find the answer to.  I am fascinated by the gowns and cloaks popular

: in the late 14th - early 15th century that are covered with the heraldry of

: the wearer.  My question is - were the heraldric symbols all and always

: embroidered, or were some of the larger elements appliqued?

 

Very few of this sort of garment have survived, making it difficult to say

much for certain. The heraldic garments of this type that _have_ survived

were preserved because they were associated with important (i.e., rich)

people. Since embroidery is the more ostentatious of the two techniques

(i.e., shows off your wealth better) the fact that surviving garment

examples all use embroidery is not an entirely conclusive argument against

the possiblity of applique. Similarly, wardrobe accounts describing

garments with heraldic motifs of this period all specify embroidery,

however surviving wardrobe accounts will, again, tend to be those of

important households.

 

There are examples of heraldic applique from even earlier (see two 13th

century examples in Staniland's "Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers"),

however these are relatively small items. There are problems of scale in

doing large motifs using medieval applique techniques -- either a fair

amount of stress is going to be placed on a stitch technique that is not

well suited to bear it, or (as some pieces were) the appliqued piece can

also be glued down, but this would create drape and movement problems in a

garment that would not be as great a problem in either a small motif or a

flat hanging item. (I _believe_ I've seen relatively large banners done

with applique -- my memory is saying it's on some captured banner

associated with Switzerland, or maybe Austria ... I don't have the book

and the details are escaping me.)

 

: I can see how

: embroidery would certainly be the easiest way to go for small elements -

: such as the spots in an ermine field - but by the same token, it would seem

: to me that the best way to handle large charges would be via applique.  I

 

But keep in mind that a medieval noble ordering a piece of heraldic

clothing would not necessarily be considering whether a particular

technique was easy or even cheap -- if fashion demanded a more

time-consuming and expensive method.

 

Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn

 

 

From: Ciard49 at aol.com

Date: December 27, 2005 3:51:49 AM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

One way to turn the edges for applique is to sew (right sides together)  your

decorative fabric with bridal tulle, about one quarter inch around all  edges

leaving an opening big enough to turn the fabrics right side  out.

 

Before turning, trim and clip all curves and points. If fabric wants to  

pucker after turning, turn it wrong side out again and reclip.

 

The tulle fabric gives no bulk on the underside and holds the seams  well.

 

Hand sew using applique stitch or small straight stitches perpendicular to  

the edge.

 

Ciard

 

 

From: prudencecurious at netscape.net

Date: December 27, 2005 10:33:01 AM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

The way most applique was done in period is cut out the piece to be appliqued to size and apply it to the ground cloth without turning under.  They sometimes used glue or beeswax to control the initial fraying of the edges.  They almost always (like 99.9999% of the time) put cording overtop the edges, which also controled fraying.  This method produces very little puckering, but also does not stand up to repeated machine washings.

 

Things that will help control the puckering, if you are doing modern applique.  

 

1) Make the ground cloth and decorative fabric as close in weight and material as possible - this reduces shrinkage differences and how the two fabric pull against each other.  

 

2) Watch the grain when cutting.  Fabric stretches more one direction that another (pull vertically, horizontally and both of the diagonals and see how it works).  If you cut a triangle, at least one side will be along the bias and have a very different stretch when sewing it to the ground cloth.

 

3) Make certain that the tension when sewing the ground cloth to the decorative fabric is consistant for both fabrics.  If one is stretched more than the other, puckering will occur.

 

4) Choose a fabric that doesn't slide.  The choice of fabric in applique can make all the difference.  Do not applique gauze.  Wool to wool, on the other hand, is wonderful (after making certain that both fabrics are completely shrunk).

 

Prudence the Curious

 

 

From: Ciard49 at aol.com

Date: December 27, 2005 10:34:51 AM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

In a message dated 12/27/2005 10:09:53 AM Central Standard Time,  

baby_sis_83 at hotmail.com writes:

 

<<< so I'm  supposed to put something under said decorative piece of fabric

before  sewing it? Perhaps I should do an applique class before I start out

on  this endeavor. lol

 

Grainne Kathleen NicPadraig  MacDaniel >>>

 

Some people use wonder under, or some other type of iron-on fabric to  "glue"

the decorator fabric in place while it is sewn down.

 

I personally do not like it. The finished effect is often stiff and  does not

move right with the base fabric, and can leave a residue that  shows.

 

Are you sewing it by hand or on the machine?

 

The edges of the decorative fabric must be stabilized -- preferably turned  

under -- before being sewn down.

 

If you have never done this before, perhaps asking an experienced person to  

help you would be a good idea.

 

Ciard

 

 

From: Kingdom Webminister <vscribe at ansteorra.org>

Date: December 27, 2005 11:06:48 AM CST

To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

Ciard49 at aol.com said:

> Some people use wonder under, or some other type of iron-on

> fabric to  "glue" the decorator fabric in place while it is sewn down.

 

Having seen the work with and without the "glue", if you do not

do it right you will still get the puckering.

 

However that being said I have seen the work of both HL Ciard

and Mary Elisabeth and they both come out beautifully.

 

Right now I am working on, or rather finally finished, the

Steppes Warlord Tabard and the center piece was Wonder-Under'd.

This cause the Steppes embroireres who took turns on it much

grief because the glue rendered the fabric nearly puncture

proof. It was left to be the last thing to finish because of

this. I went through a set of my best glovers needles to finish

that part. I really did not want to use the sewing machine for

this so I did not test to see if it would go through cleanly

and not leave a puncture mark. Puncture marks are not good.

Will not heal kinda thing.

 

Now to find another surgeon willing to part with a set of these

very fine small needles.

 

Basically glovers needles have same blade configuration of an

Epee, three sided blades. This allowed the needle to actually

go through the two layers of trigger and allow the hole to heal

back closed around the thread.

 

If you use Wonder-Under and you are going to be doing any work

on top of it all ask these ladies what weight to use so that it

will allow you to puncture through easliy. Wonder-Under comes

in different weights.

 

HL Chiara

Kingdom Webminister, Ansteorra

 

 

From: Gail Gavit <ggavit at interconnect.net>

Date: December 27, 2005 12:17:56 PM CST

To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

I use "heat and bond lite" on the piece to be appliqued and a tear-

away stabilizer under the the whole piece when you stitch. Be sure  

you use the heat and bond lite or it will gum up your needle. It  

works like a charm!

Katherine Brandon

 

> In a message dated 12/26/2005 11:29:27 P.M. Central Standard Time,

> baby_sis_83 at hotmail.com writes:

> I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on how to  

> do applique

> and not have it pucker. I've done it  before but every time, the  

> material has puckered and looked not  cool. Can someone help me?

>

> Grainne Kathleen NicPadraig  MacDaniel

>

> If you do not plan on washing it. Wonder Under is your friend.

>

> Donnel

 

 

From: Laura Betenbaugh <mbetenbaugh at houston.rr.com>

Date: December 27, 2005 6:14:12 PM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: [Ansteorra] Re: Applique

 

Before wonder under, I used Elmer's school glue, washing it out after sewing the pieces together. This eliminated the stiffness, but takes time to dry before sewing.

 

Lorraine Fraser

 

 

From: Jan Van Zandt <hejanais at yahoo.com>

Date: December 27, 2005 4:12:56 PM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: [Ansteorra] applique

 

Grainne,

 

  I use the SEW-ABLE Wonder Under - check the package. There is a NO-sew type - you DON"T want that - it will gum up your needle and machine.  

 

  It's best to have materials of the same weight and content washability.  You can applique a lighter weight onto a heavier weight but it doesn'r necessarily work well the other way around.

 

  For things like Ansteorran Stars, I iron-on Wonder Under to big squares of the material.  Do NOT remove the paper backing. Then using a cutout of the Star, I trace around the cutout on the paperside of the Wonder Under. If I want a lot of the Stars I trace all of them at the same time and try to fit them as close together as possible on the paper back.  You can never have too many Ansteorra Stars.:) Then I cut out what I need - leaving the paper backing on them.  I pull the paper backing off just before I iron them on.  

 

  After I iron on the appliques I use a very close, narrow buttonhole (zigzag) stitch to applique them to the material.  Use thread that is the same color as the applique.  It looks better in the long run than using thread the color of the background.   I set the needle on the spot where the two materials meet and have the zigzag stich go to the inside of the applique - that way you have a smoother clean looking edge.  I am ambidextrous, so I can work on the right or left edge of an applique.  After you do a few appliques you will figure which edge feels right to you.

 

  I've made many banners and Rhoadd tabards. A few years ago I made the big, nine foot banner that Sir Corwin and Sir Gideon presented to the King to use as a Regional fighting prize at Gulf Wars  The Banner was given to the Bryn Gwlad War Company the first year and the next year it was presented to the Kingdom of Calontir as a gift for being allied to Ansteorra for many years. It was doublesided with two rampant white lions holding a heater shield - doing a double-sided banner is another story - having a 4'x6' light table certainly helps.

 

  He Jan

  Ffynnon Gath

 

 

From: DonnelShaw at aol.com

Date: December 29, 2005 9:45:25 AM CST

To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Applique

 

When I make my banners I just wonder under the piece on then use my  sewing

machine to stitch down the edges. I have never had a problem. They  have also

lasted 15 plus years.

 

Donnel

 

<the end>



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org