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Indian-KumKum-art - 8/22/13
"15th
Century East Indian Cosmetic KumKum" by Baroness Anastasia Alexandrovana
Andreeva (OL).
NOTE:
See also the files: cosmetics-msg, cosmetics-lnks, p-hygiene-msg,
Indian-Sari-art, dyeing-msg, Scented-Oils-art, Moghul-India-msg.
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NOTICE -
This article was
submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's
Florilegium.
These files are available
on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents
of this file remains with the author or translator.
While the author will
likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications,
please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the
end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S.
Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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15th Century East Indian Cosmetic KumKum
by
Baroness Anastasia Alexandrovna Andreeva (OL)
for
Kingdom A&S Championship
September
15th century miniature of Rhada awaiting Krishna
Hindus
attach great importance to the ornamental mark on the forehead between the two
eyebrows -- a spot considered a major nerve point in the human body since
ancient times. Also loosely known as 'tika', 'pottu', 'sindoor', 'tilak', 'tilakam',
and 'kumkum', a bindi is usually a small or a big eye-catching round mark made
on the forehead as adornment. Ancient Chinese women wore similar marks (for purely decorative purposes)
since the second century, which became popular during the Tang Dynasty.
The area between the eyebrows, the sixth chakra known as the 'agna' meaning 'command', is the seat of concealed wisdom. It is the centre point wherein all experience is gathered in total concentration. According to the tantric cult, when during meditation the latent energy ('kundalini') rises from the base of the spine towards the head, this 'agna' is the probable outlet for this potent energy. The red 'kumkum' between the eyebrows is said to retain energy in the human body and control the various levels of concentration. It is also the central point of the base of the creation itself — symbolizing auspiciousness and good fortune
The kumkum is an auspicious symbol. When a girl or a married woman visits a
house, it is a sign of respect (in case of an elderly lady) or blessings (in
case of a young girl) to offer kumkum to them when they leave. However, it is
not offered to widows.
Kumkum is also widely used for worshiping the
Hindu goddesses, especially Shakti and Lakshmi, and a kumkum powder is thrown
(along with other mixtures) into the air during Holi (the Festival of Colours),
a popular Hindu spring festival.
Making
aromatic paste 16th century lady making cosmetics
The
Sulltans Delight, 1411
Recipes
for KumKum
Sindoor was the ancient name given to the very toxic, red, mercury oxide. As a cosmetic Kumkum's most common base is turmeric powder which becomes red when mixed with lime juice or lime powder (calcium compound), moistened in water, or with alum, iodine and camphor, or with oil and sea shell powder (calcium salts), or aguru, chandan and kasturi. It can also be made of sandalwood mixed with musk, or from a mixture of saffron ground with kusumbha flower.
Another traditional ingredient used in making kumkum was raw rice in water heated in a pan until it formed into a glue-like red carbonaceous compound which solidified on cooling. At the time of placing the kumkum, it was made into a paste by adding water.
National Botanical Research Institute (NBRI) color experts say that in olden days sindoor was made with a special type of red marble stone, covered with turmeric and a little oil and left undisturbed for a few days, after which it turned into red powder. In Tamil, turmeric powder is known as manjal and the final product is called manjal kunkumam.
There are many recipes for this forhead bindi I
have chosen one from a manuscript of recipes from the 15th century.(Patkar pg.19)
Original Recipe
Pound together Ghana, Shabara, Mrunal,
Vari, Shaileyaka and Sweda (persperation) and dry Kusumbha (flowers) Add
Laksha-rasa (lac-juice) to this mixture. Thus formed Fine Kumkuma has a
beautiful colour and is made for beautiful ladies.
15th c. lady with mortar and pestle
My Recipe
As you can see from the recipe no measurements are
given. As I only want a small amount I am working in tsps.
Pound Together:
Ghana (Musta root powder, Cyperus rotundus) 1tsp.
Shabara (Bark of Lodhartree, Erythrina Variegata (Coral
Tree Bark) 1/2 tsp
Mrunal (Camphor) 1/2
tsp
Vari (Shatavari Root, Asparagus Racemosus) 1/2 tsp
Shaileyaka (Lichen, Usnea Barbata) 1/2 tsp
Kusumbha (Safflower) 1
Sweda (Persperation) I collected my own persperation in
a small bottle 2 drops
Lac-Juice I had leftover from dyeing the sari and used
several drops to make a paste.
I put all ingredients one by one into the mortar
and pestle. I added the liquids last and made them into a paste, then put the
finished product into the cosmetic jar.
I chose to make only one recipe as it is very
difficult for a judge to try and decide if an entry is successful if they have
multiple items to judge. I have only made one recipe for kumkum and no other
cosmetics, although it was a tempation to do so. Should my kumkum have been
successful and the kohl not so much it would be very difficult for the judges.
I do hope to make more cosmetics in the future.
Middle
left is Shibara The tree is Mrunal
Abu
Hanifa al-Dinawari (896)
Musta or Cyperus Rotundas from The Greek Herbal of
Dioscorides 1st Century.
Safflower from Bancks Herbal 15th
C.
Lac Bug
Cosmetic Jars
Lichen from The Greek Herbal of Dioscorides 1st c
I am using a vintage Indian cosmetic box to hold my KumKum. The other compartments would hold kohl, rice powder, Henna, and perfume.
Celadon
porcelain three compartment cosmetic jar,
Song
Dynasty 906-1279
KumKum
Paste
Bibliography
Gunther, Robert T. The Greek Herbal of Dioscorides 1st Century AD Hafner Publishing co. New York 1959
Krishnamurthy, KH. Ayervedic Studies and Herbal Cosmetics of Ancient India. B.R. Publishing Corporation 2001
Lewin, B. The Book of Plants of Abu Hanifa al-Dinawari (896) Part of the alphabetical section Edited from the Unique MS In the library of the University of Istanbul, with an introduction, notes and indices, and a vocabulary of selected words. Uppsala Wiesbaden 1953
Nadkarni,K.M... Indian
Materia Medica. Bombay Popular Prakashan1976
Patkar, Kunda B. and P.V. Bole Herbal Cosmetics in Ancient India with a Treatise on Planta Cosmetica (200BC to 500AD).
BharatiyaVidya Bhavan, Mumbai 1997
Ram, Asha. Herbal Indian Perfumes and Cosmetics Sri Satguru Publications, 2002
Titley, Norah M. (translator) The Ni'matnama Manuscript of the Sultans of Mandu The Sultans Book of Delights 15th Century. RoutledgeCurzon 2005
Article
Gerrit Bos* and Guido Mensching A 15th Century Medico-Botanical Synonym
List (Ibero-Romance-Arabic) in Hebrew
Characters
** http://medtrad.org/panacea/IndiceGeneral/n24_tribunahistorica-bos.mensching.pdf">http://medtrad.org/panacea/IndiceGeneral/n24_tribunahistorica-bos.mensching.pdf
Website
http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/social_life/index.htm">http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/social_life/index.htm
The Temples of India
Social Life in Ancient India
Many thanks to Sebastian Martinez de Leon for his invaluable help in scanning some of my pictures.
------
Copyright
2011 by Marilee Humason <stasiwa at yahoo.com>. Permission is granted for
republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is
credited. Addresses change, but a
reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the
publication and if possible receives a copy.
If this
article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in the
publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also
appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being
reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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