Generic-Pants-art - 9/24/12

"Generic Pants" by Caitlin nic Raighne.

NOTE: See also the files: pants-msg, pants-trews-lnks, leg-wraps-msg, QD-Trunk-Hose-art, shoes-msg, sewing-msg, How-2-Fnd-Fab-art, linen-msg, wool-msg.

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NOTICE -

This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium. 

These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author or translator.

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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You can find more articles by this author on her website at: http://www.caitlinsclothing.com


Generic Pants
by Caitlin nic Raighne

A lot of medieval costumes, especially for men, call for pants.  These pants are very simple to make and do not require much fabric. These pants may not look pretty, but I promise you, your fighter will never pop the crotch seam!


MATERIALS
• twice the length desired +1/2 yard of 45" fabric
• sewing thread
• cording ribbon for tie (I frequently use 72" black shoelaces)


MEASUREMENTS
• _____ A = Hip at the widest + 4"
• _____ B = Thigh at the widest + 4"
• _____ C = Crotch length / 2
• _____ D = Inseam to ankle + 1"
• _____ E = waist to ankle + 1"

NOTE:  To get the crotch length, use a tape to measure around the middle of the body from the point where the top of the pants will be in front to where the top will be in the back, passing the tape between the legs.  The tape should remain fairly loose when making this measurement.  Divide this measurement by 2 to get the final crotch length.


Step 1 
Take measurement E and cut the yardage into two equal pieces that length.  Each will become a pants leg.

Step 2
Using chalk, draw a line horizontally across the fabric.  Make the line 1/2 A minus 4".

For example, if A=54", then 1/2 A = 27. By subtracting 4" from that = 22". Measure down 2" for the waistband and then begin step 3.

Step 3
Take measurement C and mark a curved line on each piece as shown in the diagram to form the front crotch line.

Step 4
To make the back crotch line, go to the other side of the fabric, measure 1/2 of A, and mark this point.  From there go down 18" and over 4".  Connect these two points with a curved line.  Mark this line "A".

Step 5
Mark an angled line from front and back crotch points to the length desired.  Taper as desired.



Step 6 
To make the gusset, cut a rectangle 18" long by about 8" wide.  Fold that rectangle in half lengthwise.  Measure down 10", and from that point trim to about 4" wide.


CONSTRUCTION NOTES
General Sewing Tips:

1. It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric.  Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.
2. All seams (except the seams to have lacing) are to have 1/2" seam allowance.
3. Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
4. Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
5. Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.
6. Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
7. Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.


SEWING DIRECTIONS

Step 1
Sew inseams for both legs to within 2" of the short edge.

Step 2 
Sew the long edge of the gusset to the back crotch curve on each pants leg.




Step 3
Sew the front crotch seam




Step 4 
Sew the remainder of the inseam together making sure to open all seam allowances and to match the edges.

Step 5
Baste center front seam allowance flat.

Step 6
Turn under the waistband 1/4" and sew.

Step 7
Measure down 1 1/4" on center front seam and sew two button holes - 1 on each side of the seam.  Slit the button holes open.

Step 8
Turn the waist band down 1" and sew the fabric down to make a hem casing to thread a drawstring through.

Step 9
Hem the bottom of the legs.
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Copyright <year> by Martha Rice. <caitlinnicraighne at HOTMAIL.COM>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited.  Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.

If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.

<the end>
Edited by Mark S. Harris	Generic-Pants-art	5 of 5