sauces-msg - 2/2/00
Period sauces. Sauce recipes.
NOTE: See also the files: aspic-msg, fruit-msg, broths-msg, eggs-msg,
diary-prod-msg, almond-milk-msg, vinegar-msg, verjuice-msg, garum-msg.
************************************************************************
NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that
I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some
messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan¹s Florilegium.
These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with
seperate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes
extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were
removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I
make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the
individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these
messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this
time. If information is published from these messages, please give
credit to the orignator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: Lord Stefan li Rous
RSVE60@email.sps.mot.com stefan@texas.net
************************************************************************
From: NRMOLL00@ukcc.UKy.EDU (Nancy R. Mollette)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Garlic sauce at last
Date: 15 Dec 1993 18:30:41 -0500
This recipe is a translation from a 16th century Italian text:
Translation and redaction by Basilicus Phocas, a Dragonsmark cook and
Agliata (Garlic sauce)
8 oz walnuts (shelled) or almonds (shelled and skinned)
Remove the crust from the bread slices. Soak the bread in the chicken stock
Yours in Service,
Sue Wensel wrote:
Blanched (presumably peeled) almonds, toasted in olive oil until light
I don't have a modern redaction at hand, but could probably produce one
Hopeful regards,
Mark Harris wrote:
A jance is any of a variety of French ginger based sauces, usually, but
> Stefan li Rous
Adamantius
Greetings,
Master Ian
Cameline Sauce
Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the description in Le
1 c. each cider vinegar and water
Ian writes:
Perhaps in Viandier, but for the Catalan feast we served three months
Lasairfhiona writes:
The recipe is #109 in _Libre del Coch_. Here's our translation:
109 Cameline Sauce
Our first redaction turned into Cameline Glue; the following has fewer
1/4 cup breadcrumbs (from toasted whole wheat bread)
As I recall, we did this redaction, scaled up by a factor of ten or
> My daughter had Roast Beef
Sauce Alepeuere (Ashmole Ms. 1429, Harl. 4016, etc.)
"Take fayre broun brede, toste hit, and stepe it in vinegre, and drawe
I need to ask my wife's permission before posting her redaction, but
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
<< salmon is
There are several approaches to the sauce "problem". The one I use is to make
I think sometimes as SCA cooks we tend to mistakenly associate the word sauce
To support this theory, I would suggest you redact and try one of the fish
Keeping in mind that modern sauces such as catsup contain things we wouldn't
Lord Ras
Hi, Katerine here.
Anna of Dragonsmark asks whether, given that medieval sauces were designed to
I believe not, for two reasons. First, I'm not at all certain that I grant
Second, I'd rather use the medieval main ingredient, or as close an analog
So I don't think there's any rational argument that altering sauces for more
To be clearer: one can, of course, serve whatever tasty food one likes. If
I don't think there's any moral imperative to stick to the medieval repertoire
Cheers,
Noemi writes:
At least for roast meats, a sauce was often added to a dish NOT prior
It can work very nicely to serve a single big hunk of meat with three
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Lionardo Acquistapace wrote:
We were quite excited to find a cooked cameline sauce in one of the
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
<< I would love for someone to print a proper recipe and to note whether or
Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
COMPOST
Take rote of parsel, of pasternak, rafens, scrape hem and waische hem clene.
There is a redaction in 'Pleyn Delit which, IMHO, deviates away from the
Take parsley root, parsnips, radishes, scrape them and wash them clean. Take
COMPOST
1/2 cp parsley root, peeled and diced
Place parsley root, parsnips, radishes, turnips and cabbage in a non-reactive
While mixture is cooling, bring wine and honey to a boil, removing the scum
Put cooled cabbage mixture into a non-reactive kettle. Add vinegar, powder
Add remaining ingredients to the wine/honey mixture, stiiring well to make
Uduido@aol.com wrote:
I second the motion! Just a couple of comments on compost: there are
Best of all, I should point out that this stuff keeps for a long time,
Adamantius
Adamantius wrote:
It appears in the 14th-c. Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_. I might be
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote:
Jes' one a' those things modern science doesn't address...my dictionary
Interesting that this appears to call for unrendered fat, something that
But yes, this is clearly a recognizable roux, in spite of the fact that
Adamantius
Mark Harris wrote:
All right. In the "Everything Most People Never Wanted to Know
Okay. Things that are, in archaic versions of English, drawn, are mostly
Butter is an emulsion, a perfect mixture of an oil and water, which
In [late] period cookery parlance butter would have been "drawn" by
Sauces like that are still made today on the Continent, especially in
But, drawing butter up with a small amount of just water , or vinegar,
Adamantius
I have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitter
> Ok, I've seen several mentions of this "aspic" in several messages
Do you know the clearish gelatinous goo under the refrigerated chicken
margali
But: check out the sauces that Lord Julian le Scot made for Known World A&S
http://www.math.harvard.edu/~schuldy/kwas.menu.html
Tibor
Mark Harris wrote:
Sauce Hollandaise, as we now know it, is the modern descendant of
Francois Pierre de La Varenne, in "Le Cuisinier Francois" (1651) gives
Modern Hollandaise sauce is usually made by warming egg yolks in a bowl,
Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
I'd have to say my feeling is that Hollandaise sauce as we know it today
Adamantius
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
well, you can buy something called hollandaise sauce in packettes, and
i use the egg whites in the scrambled eggs to fill the crepes, but you
a good hollandaise should make the capillaries scream for help!
My step-mother makes a very good mock Hollandaise sauce which is both tasty
1/2 cup mayonaisse (Hellman's)
Mix and heat through, stirring. DON'T BOIL.
It's nice for those occasions when you have forty-eleven other things to
The day she gave me the recipe, she was making a Holiday brunch for 15-20
Phlip
<< I'm finding it hard to imagine a sweet pudding-like dessert
Since so many recipes from period seem to me to resemble mincemeat and I have
Ras
dkpirolo@cts.com writes:
In Ancient Cuisines , Jeff Smith cites an ancient Greek recipe which calls for
Ras
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
The first example of an emulsion sauce I've seen is in la Varenne, 1651.
- --Anne-Marie
> 3. Is mayonnaise period?
I _think_ there's an emulsified (which is the key for the creaminess of
Adamantius
Also in the Stone Ages, Gideanus wrote:
In the c.1400 AD Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_ are the following two
141 Almedroch
142 Almedroc with eggs
The first, from the directions for how to rescue it if it is
Marimar Torres, in her book on modern Catalan cooking, _The Catalan
On the subject of "eggyolks boiled in water", I recall that the 13th-c.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
> On the same line, Horseradish recipes????? Please?
There's a recipe for a horseradish sauce in the German corpus. Horseradish
- --AM
For a nice fish sauce (Greek, and probably period), heat a cup of
Bear
Allison wrote:
Actually mus refers more to dishes of a certain consistency than to fruit
Probably the closest thing to conserves or fruit paste would be latwerge,
Valoise
Philip & Susan Troy quoted:
>> How long you brown
Well, the French certainly use the term roux as well. There are 3 classic
white: cooked just enough to get rid of the starchy taste - no color change
blonde: also called "popcorn" roux because there is only a slight change of
brown: dark, rich roux, usually takes up to thirty minutes to fully establish
The Cajuns have added an additional step:
black: extremely dark roux, cooking time is usually at least one hour (note:
Fergus Stout
[editor¹s note - roux are a post-1600 development, but I thought this message
A Garlic Sauce with Walnuts or Almonds
Platina book 8
To almonds or walnuts that have been coarsely ground add as much cleaned
A More Colored Garlic Sauce
Platina book 8
Prepare this in the same way as above. But do not moisten it in water or
1/8 c walnuts
For that matter, one of the pasta-and-cheese recipes would be a nice,
Hope one or two of these ideas will appeal to your crowd--and good luck
Ldy Diana, who *should* be working on the class *she's* teaching Mon.
ghesmiz@UDel.Edu writes:
An easy cream sauce can be made with powdered non-dairy creamer:
Easy "Cream Sauce"
2 cups stock, milk, or water
Heat liquid to slow boil, add seasonings and creamer, mix corn starch with
Mordonna DuBois
Bogdan>
Sauce for stockysshe in an-other maner (Ashmole MS 1439, Two 15th Cent.
Rudd Rayfield
> Sorrel Sauce (Take a 1000 eggs or more) - will have to taste test this one,
This Sorrel sauce goes brilliantly with Roast Pork or suckling Pig which I
I have it on authority from my friends who can eat seafood that it also
Filippa Ginevra.
Hopefully, someone else can help document this but it is and has been a
Rødegrød med Fløde
2 ten ounce packages frozen mixed berries, strawberries and rasberries
Blend berries until pureed or rub through a fine sieve. Place puree in a 1
- - Sister Mary Endoline
Back in the not too distant past there was a brief flurry of
Francesco Datini, a merchant from Prato near Venice in the
My source for this sauce is Iris Origo's "Merchant of Prato",
Jan van Seist
Hello! I don't recall if anyone mentioned it, but there is a recipe in
Cindy
Bronwynmgn@aol.com wrote:
Taillevent recommends roast pork be eaten with verjuice, and says some
He says of stuffed roast suckling pig that while some lazy persons eat
Something Taillevent doesn't recommend for roast pork, but which happens
Adamantius
<< Oh, and then there's Maino de Maineri's early 14th century Opusculum
As you all know, Arnald of Villanova died 1307 or 1309 in a shipwreck.
If I understand correctly the incipit of the Regimen sanitatis, quoted
"Incipit liber de regimine sanitatis Arnaldi de villa nova quem Magninus
On the other hand, Terence Scully in his "The _opusculum de saporibus of
Here is a sample recipe from the opusculum for the translators on this
"Pro lampridis magnis assatis et murenis recipe zinziberi albi
The latin text of the _opusculum de saporibus_ is at:
Thomas
Artemis,
> Yet another quick question. I'm currently looking for a good
A new variation that Drake & I have been using is as follows from Redon's
Roast Chicken. To prepare roast chicken, you must roast it; and when it is
Redon's redaction of the sauce is:
juice of 3 bitter oranges (sevilles) OR 10 tablespoons verjuice plus 1
Drake's Variation: Instead of pouring this over the meat, we heat it
Meliora - from Polit.
"Artemis of St. Malachy" wrote:
This is a nice version; it's the only one that seems to contain fruit;
"149. Sawse camelyne. Take raysons of coraunce & kyrnels of notys &
Or, in other words,
Sauce cameline: Take dried currants and shelled nuts [probably walnuts,
I don't have a worked-out recipe with quantities and such, but I figure
Adamantius
"Artemis of St. Malachy" Enjoy
Korrin S. DaArdain
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I thought I'd peek my head in and offer a recipe from Le Menagier.
Cameline Sauce
In addition to mustard, cameline sauce is a common recipe found in ³Le
Note that at Tournay to make cameline they bray ginger, cinnamon and saffron
I have taken some liberty in combining two aspects of the above recipe.
In practice
Mix all ingredients. Strain the mixture through a fine seive, pressing down
Hauviette
Several people have asked that I put the recipe for the Cameline Sauce that I
The recipe was from Le Viandier de Taillevant, translation by Elizabeth Bennett.
When I actually made the sauce, I was working straight from the text itself,
Elysant
"UNBOILED SAUCES AND HOW ONE MAKES THEM.
TO MAKE CAMELINE SAUCE. Take ginger, cinnamon, and a lot of cloves, grains
Recipe
1/4 teaspoon ginger
Grind all spices with a mortar and pestle. Empty the spices into a bowl, and
Notes: - The fine breadcrumbs were prepared from a dried white bread loaf.
LrdRas@aol.com writes:
> The white sals recipe 'we' made at Pennsic was my recipe. The translation of
Hello Margali,
Here's the recipe for White Sals for you. Credit for redacting this recipe
Elysant
-----
Redaction-
1 cp. Walnuts
In a food processor combine walnuts and garlic until they form a smooth
NOTE: There is a description of mustard as prepared in the medieval middle
Here is another recipe for cameline sauce from Terence Scully's edition
"Pour faire une saulse cameline: prenez pain blancq harlé sur le greil,
'To make a Cameline Sauce. Get white bread toasted on the grill, set it
If you need a 'redaction', look at Flandrin & Lambert, Fêtes gourmandes
Thomas
Thomas Gloning wrote:
This recipe is actually fairly similar to the one in the earlier
Adamantius
Adamantius wrote:
Thanks for pointing to this recipe. I missed that. The recipe, given in
<<< It's worth noting, however, that Scully, in _his_ translation of le
In case we are both speaking about #155: four of the five manuscripts
<<< and concludes, rightly or wrongly, that a scribe misspelled or
The evidence indicating an error (and not the work of a gourmand), he
Scully's notes point to several other recipes for a cameline sauce (e.g.
Cheers,
Stefan li Rous wrote:
No, I haven't tried it with mastic. I've tried it with mace, though,
Adamantius
This one freezes well, and besides being a great sauce for roasted meats,
From The English Hous-wife, Gervase Markham, 1615
Sauce for a Roast Capon
To make an excellent sause for a rost Capon, you shall take Onions, and
2 cups minced onion (save yourself the last step of "shredding")
Put the onions in a saucepan with enough water to cover, add salt & pepper as
This was served at an Elizabethan feast I did this past February. I had
Wolfmother
<the end>
Copyright © Mark S. Harris (Lord Stefan li Rous)
_Libro novo nel qual s'insegna a far d'ogni sorte di vivande secondo
la diversita de i tempi, cosi di carne come di pesca_
marks on this keyboard> by Cristoforo di Messibugo.
sometime fighter, MKA Charles Potter.
4 slices of white bread
2-4 large cloves of garlic, peeled
1 1/2 (one and one half) cups of strong chicken stock
1 tsp salt
for 20 minutes in a crockery bowl.
Place the nuts and garlic in a stone mortar and grind very fine with a wooden
pestle, then transfer to the bowl containing the bread and broth. Add salt and
stir continuously with a wooden spoon for 2 or 3 minutes. Taste for salt. Cover
the bowl and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Serve the sauce in a sauce
boat. Agliata may also be made by placing all the ingredients together in a
blender or food processor. This is very good over rice mixed with butter.
Anna of Dragonsmark
Nancy R. Mollette nrmoll00@ukcc.uky.edu Your disclaimer here.
From: "Philip W. Troy"
To: sca-cooks@eden.com
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 12:16:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Saracen Sauce
> What are the ingredients of your Saracen Sauce?
>
> Derdriu
brown, cooled, and ground into fairly fine meal. Rose hips are an
optional addition, they would make the dish more tart than it would be
without them. This is then either "drawn up" with hot almond milk, capon
broth, red wine, or some combination thereof. It should be quite thick,
and if it isn't thick enough, you can thicken it with rice flour. It
should be red in color, traditionally alkanet is the standard coloring,
but I'm not certain I'd use anything but standard red vegetable
coloring, unless perhaps I used a bit of powdered red sandalwood, which
is also a bit iffy. Standard garnish are a sprinkling of pomegranite
cells, berries, seeds, etc (whatever you call them).
pretty easily...
G. Tacitus Adamantius
From: "Philip W. Troy"
To: sca-cooks@eden.com
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:18:42 -0400
Subject: sca-cooks Re: Garlic
> Ok. Now I'm not sure what a "jance" is, but I like Garlic.
not, I think, always made with milk. They are similar to a modern white
sauce except for a thickening of bread and/or egg yolks instead of
flour, and always contain plenty of ginger. A yellow jance contains some
saffron, a green jance parsley, and garlic jance, well, use your
imagination. You find recipes for them in the Viandier de Taillevent,
and probably also in Le Menagier de Paris.
From: "James L. Matterer"
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 21:45:42 -0700
Subject: SC - Cameline Meat Brewet
In response to Derdriu's & Willem's request for a posting of A
Cameline Meat Brewet, here it is.
Looking over the recipe, I think it might be fun to substitute red
wine for the water in the Cameline Sauce. I've never tried it, but I
think I'll have to now that I've thought of it. If anyone makes this
dish, please let me know what you think!
"Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon, mace, long pepper if you
wish, then squeeze out bread soaked in vinegar and strain it all
together and salt it just right." - Le Viandier de Taillevent, from
Food in History, p. 219.
Viandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as its
predominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises us
that not all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that in
mind, the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe.
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. each of ginger, cloves, mace, cardamon, pepper, and salt
Combine liquids, add spices and mix thoroughly with a wire whisk. Taste
for seasonings and adjust accordingly. Use immediately or refrigerate
for later use.
From: Stephen Bloch
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:45:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SC - Cameline Meat Brewet
> Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the description in Le
> Viandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as its
> predominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises us
> that not all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that in
> mind, the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe.
ago we used a cooked, breadcrumb-thickened "salsa camelina" based on a
mixture of beef broth and pomegranate juice! It was deliciously
different.
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/
Math/CS Dept, Adelphi University
From: Stephen Bloch
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 19:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SC - Cameline Sauce
> Could I possibly beg that recipe from you? I have a couple quarts of
> pomegranate juice, and no idea what to make of it (aside from wine, but that
> would be too easy...)
Take two or three pomegranates and strain them all through a piece of
clean linen. And when they are strained, press them well in such
manner that the juice [hisca] well. And afterwards take a bit of
toasted bread and soak it in the aforementioned juice. And afterwards
take a good quantity of ground cinnamon and put it with the bread. And
afterwards grind it well in a morter. And when it is ground up, temper
it up with good broth and the juice of the aforementioned pomegranates
and vinegar which isn't too strong . And after that it goes on the
fire to boil, stirring all the time, until it is thick, but put in the
pot before it boils a lump of fine sugar. And it's done.
breadcrumbs, and works well in both flavor and texture.
3/4 cup pomegranate juice
1/4 cup beef broth
2 T wine vinegar
1 T cinnamon
1 tsp white sugar
so, alongside the roast beef in the feast. We also served a "salsa
allipebrada", or garlic-and-pepper sauce, which actually I think had
been redacted years earlier from a French recipe entitled "sauce
aliper".
mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/
Math/CS Dept, Adelphi University
From: Stephen Bloch
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:25:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: SC - Re: sauces
> with a pepper sauce at a Renn Fair and loved, but can't find the pepper
> sauce recipie.
it thurwe a straynour; and put ther-to garleke smal y-stampyd, poudre
piper, salt, & serue forth"
she's served this with roast beef, venison, etc. at several feasts to
rave reviews. We usually pronounce it "Sauce Aliper" or, for the still
less linguistically adventurous, "Garlic Pepper Sauce".
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/
Math/CS Dept, Adelphi University
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:29:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido@aol.com
Subject: SC - sauces-longish
> tempered with sauce cameline....but are there not more flavorful things than
> cinnamon to put onto salmon? >>
my sauces vrey potent so to speak. In several attempts at doing period sauces
I have found that the more concentrated they are the better they are. (e.g.
the concentration of modern worchestershire or oyster sauce or catsup, etc.
with gravy and try to come up with something that can be "ladled" over the
dish instead of , IMO, more correctly spooned over it.
recipes from Apicius. When I did this I thought YUCK! but after actually making
the dish, the sauce turned out to be excellent and the serving size was
approximately 1 tblsp. per portion. My mouth waters just thinking about it.
think appropriate (e.g. cinnamon, cloves, vinegar, etc.) or the anchovies
and citrus fruits in Worchestershire, the long slow cooking necessary for a
good sauce blends and reformulates the original raw flavors into a single
amalgamated whole. Try it you might like it. :-)
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 03:30:44 -0500
From: gfrose@cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter)
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #209
balance the humors of the meats, we should be devising new sauces better to
suit current materials.
the premise. I know that Scully has a bee in his bonnet on this subject,
but other scholars by no means universally agree. Certainly there are tracts
from the middle ages that argue for this -- Magninus Mediolanensis is an
example -- but there's no evidence for it in the *culinary* literature, and
it isn't clear that the medical literature isn't rationalizing practice as
opposed to guiding it. Further, the repertoire of sauces is stable with
respect to names and general natures of sauces -- though not at all with
respect to their details -- over a period of two centuries; and the changes
do not reflect changes in the theory of the humors nearly so much as those
we see throughout the cuisine as a whole.
as we can find, at which point rebalancing makes little sense. I think, in
a sense, the quesion whether cinnamon is the most tasty spice to put on salmon
gives the show away: the desire is to have a different sauce for *flavor*, not
for any medieval reason. In that case, I'd be far more inclined to go with a
different *medieval* sauce. There are many suggestions of sauces to go with
fish; I would be far more inclined to find a medieval sauce I liked, and use
it.
flavorful ingredients according to modern prejudices is a medieval practice.
Sauces *did* evolve -- but not randomly. If one wanted to study in detail the
patterns by which specific spices augmented or replaced others, and then
reproduce those patterns, that would be a medieval practice. But I've been
engaged in a detailed study intended to reveal that kind of pattern for
over five years, and I don't think I could begin to do it competantly. It
takes a *great* deal of work; without doing that work, you're just making a
modern sauce, and presenting it as medieval. I don't think that's appropriate.
one wants to serve modern created dishes because one knows them, and does not
know medieval dishes one would rather serve, well and good. That, in itself,
is perfectly reasonable, though it is not what I would prefer to see. But
I think we have a responsibility not to try to rationalize it, or "pretty"
it over for SCA consumption, but claiming that it is in any way a
reflection of medieval practice. It's a deliberate move away from medieval
cuisine, based on a personal preference.
(although I prefer to do so, and prefer meals where others have, provided that
they've also done the cooking well). I *do* think there's a moral imperative
to be honest about what we do. If we choose to be modern, we should be
honestly and openly modern. Anything else is both miseducating and lying.
- -- Katerine/Terry
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch
Subject: Re: SC - sauces-longish
> Out of curiousity, and clarification, is a sauce something that is added to a
> dish just prior to serving? I was thinking of things like, for lack of a
> better and period example, things like a paprikas where it definitely has a
> sauce, but it is what the dish was cooked in as well.
to serving, but by the diners themselves. Sorta like ketchup in a
modern restaurant. (Katerine, can you confirm this for me?)
or four different sauces on the side: it allows the diners to try a
couple of different flavors, and takes less work than preparing four
different dishes.
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:55:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Sauces and Humors
> ... I must say that a
> Camaline Sauce can be fairly varied in flavor based on the type of
> wine, verjuice, vinegar, etc. and the amounts of spices and such you
> use.
medieval Catalan cookbooks that's based on pomegranate juice. So I
walked around the corner to the kosher grocery, picked up a quart bottle
of pomegranate juice.... We served this with roast beef in a feast last
February, quite successfully.
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:16:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido@aol.com
Subject: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
not the basic chutney is period. >>
:-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
FC 103
Take rapes & caboches, ypared and icorue. Take an erthen panne with clene
water & set it on the fire; cast all (th)ise (th)erinne. When (th)ey buth
boiled cast (th)erto peeres, & perboile hem wel. Take alle (th)ise thynges vp
& lat it kele on a faire cloth. Do (th)erto salt; whan it is colde, do hit in
a vessel; take vinegar & powdour & safroun & and do (th)erto, & lat alle
(th)ise thynges lye (th)erin al ny(gh)t, o(th)er al day. Take wyne greke &
honey, clarified togider; take lumbarde mustard & raisouns coraunce, al
hoole, & gynde powdour of canel, powdour douce, anys hole, & fenell seed.
Take alle (th)ise thynges & castt togyder in a pot of erthe, & take (th)erof
whan (th)oui wilt & serue forth.
original in very significant ways so I am not posting it. My translation and
redaction follows:
turnips and cabbages, pared and cored. Take an earthen pan with clean water
and set it on the fire; cast all this therein. When they both boiled cast
therein pears, and parboil them well. Take all these things up and let it
cool on a fair cloth. Do thereto salt; when it is cold, do it in a vessel;
take vinegar and powder and saffron and do thereto, and let all these things
lie therein all night, other(wise) all day. Take Greek wine and honey,
clarified together; take Lumbard mustard and raisins of Corinth (currants ?),
all whole, and grind powder of cinnamon, powder douce, anys whole, & fennel
seed. Take alle these things and cast together in a pot of earth, & take
thereof when thou wilt and serve it forth.
FC 130
Copyright 1997 by L. J. Spencer, Jr. (a.k.a. Lord Ras al Zib)
6 parsnips, peeled and diced
1 medium black radish, peeled and diced
1 lb turnips, peeled and diced
1 gallon cabbage, cored and chopped
2 quarts winter pears, peeled, cored and chopped
Salt
1 bottle Retsina (Greek wine)
2 cps honey
2 quarts cider vinegar
.......................................
Powder:
1 cp sugar
1 Tblsp ground cloves
1 Tblsp ground cinnamon
2 Tblsp ground ginger)
.......................................
1 tsp saffron
1/2 cp ground white mustard (the supermarket variety)
1 lb dried currants
1 tsp cinnamon
......................................
Powder douce:
1 cp sugar
1 tsp ground cloves
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground ginger
1 Tblsp ground cubebs (opt.)
2 tsp groung galingal (opt.)
1 Tbsp grains of Paradise (opt.)
.......................................
1 tsp aniseed
1 tsp fennel seed
kettle (e.g. enamel, glass, or teflon. Cover with water. Bring to a boil.
Addd pears. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pears are barely tender.
Drain; spread on a cloth. Sprinkle with a substantial amount of salt and
leave until cold.
as needed. When the scum stops rising remove from heat.
and saffron. Let sit in a cool place for 12 hours.
sure that the sugar is dissolved. Add wine/honey spice mixture to
cabbage/pear mixture and blend carefully. Store in a cool place and use as
needed.
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:17:11 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Period Chutney Recipe
> Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.
> :-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes
> a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It
> is GREAT with cold cooked meat!
>
> COMPOST
> FC 103
recipes for it in Le Menagier de Paris, as well as Das Buoch Von Guter
Spise, which primarily gives the recipe for the spiced sauce, and
suggests different vegetables that can be preserved/served in it. Also,
a variant can be found, I think, in the XIIIth century Northern European
cookbook, one version of which is also known as The Icelandic Medical
Misellany.
especially if you put it, while hot, into a sterile canning jar. You
could do the whole thing with the pressure canner, I suppose, but I've
never found it necessary in this case. I have a couple of jars of
compost that are around two years old, and the one I opened last week
was just fine.
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 17:38:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Bloch
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
> I seem to recall a recipe for aioli in an earlier Spanish
> source, but I'd have to look for the reference... .
wrong, and it's in the 15th-c. Catalan _Libre del Coch_ instead, but I'm
pretty sure it's in _Sent Sovi_.
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 09:41:40 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...
> Adamantius sez:>
> >Well, yes, apart from my understanding that la Varenne uses pork fat for
> >roux. It is at least recognizable, more or less. As for emulsified
>
> he only says to use lard. Unless the mammocks are particular to pigs?
> Funny, I don¹t remember mammocks from my anatomy classes...
sez mammocks are fragments or shreds. Since lard is by definition pork
fat (other animals give things like suet and tallow) I'd bet anything
mammocks are what we would call cracklings.
>
> la Varenne _The French Cook_ a 1654 English translation of the 1651 work
>
> THICKNING OF FLOWRE.
> Melt some lard, take out the mammocks, put your flowre into your melted
> latd, seeth it wel, but have a care it stick not to the pan...
would probably have been on hand in the kitchen, anyway.
using fats other than oil or butter has pretty gone out, except in
special cases like beef gravy, etc.
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:31:24 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - drawn butter?
> What is drawn butter?
Department", I have my Official Drawn Butter Dissertation, which
actually may come in handy for some. (Hah!) ; )
either eviscerated, which isn't an issue here, or made thick in some
way, which is. Examples are the instructions to draw up a thick almond
milk, or to draw something through a streynour, which more often than
not means to force the item through a strainer to puree it and thereby
make it smooth mixture, rather than lumps and water.
under normal circumstances don't want to mix. In this case, they do
anyway. When you melt butter, it becomes a relatively thin liquid, and
the emulsion "breaks" apart into its two parts again, which is why you
can skim the clear butterfat off the top, and leave the rest behind, and
it is this clarified butterfat that is what most modern people think of
as drawn butter (which, by the way, is NOT the same thing as the ghee
used in Indian and Midle Eastern cookery, but don't get me started).
melting it VERY slowly and on a very gentle heat, like in a double
boiler or some such, with another liquid, beating it as it melts. So you
find sauces made from things like the vinegar that a fish was marinated
in, with butter melted into it and whipped to form a relatively thick,
creamy sauce, along the lines of modern beurre blanc or hollandaise.
Yummers.
France, Spain, Portugal and Italy. In England, however, somebody
conceived the idea that drawn butter should be made by making a roux
thickener of cooked flour and butter, turn that into a sauce by adding
water or vinegar or a mixture, or ale, or SOMETHING, and simmering it
for a bit, and then adding more butter, this time beating it in in the
traditional way. I don't know if this was developed by someone who felt
that the starch of the roux would keep the sauce more stable (so it
wouldn't break or de-emulsify on high heat), or if the issue was
expense, with flour and water taking the place of some of the butter, or
if they thought that simple butter beaten into a flavorful liquid was
just too rich, or what. In any case, flour-thickened drawn butter sauces
appear to have originated in England in the late eighteenth, early
nineteenth centuries. In spite of the fact that the sauce in the packet
of Lipton Rice or Noodles In Sauce is more or less made this way, with
dried butter solids and Wondra or some other pre-cooked flour stuff,
it's still a perfectly viable sauce. I like mine on peas, with a tiny
pinch of sugar and some chopped mint. (And STILL Lady Aoife thinks I
don't give English cooking a fair break! ; ) ) Some people like it on
Lutefisk, which is how we got on this topic in the first place, IIRC.
or some other watery liquid is still alive and well (in dishes like REAL
fettucine Alfredo, f'rinstance), just as it would have been done in
period. At least in late period, anyway.
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 17:32:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANN1106@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orange
orange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cut
the peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to the
juice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of a
lemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes before
straining and storing.
Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made from
Seville (Bitter) Oranges.
Audrey (aaparker@aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:33:56 -0400
From: marilyn traber
Subject: Re: SC - aspic?
> lately. For us new cooks, what is it?
>
> Stefan li Rous
or turkey? That is aspic in its original and best example. You get it
from cooking cartilage and bones to render out relatively pure protein.
It is the forrunner of jello.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:05:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Schuldenfrei
Subject: Re: SC - Classes: Last Minute Tips Request
this year. He teaches a class on sauce making, and his redactions are very
good indeed. I especially like his mustard. The sauce vert was nummy,
too.
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:44:13 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
earlier forms of a sauce believed to have been brought to France by the
Heugenots. So, its prototype appears to have actually been a Flemish or
Dutch sauce thickened with eggs, like a savory custard, and perhaps a
little butter beaten in to smooth the texture. I'm not up on the finer
details of Heugenot history, but that would put the prototype sauce at,
what, late sixteenth, early seventeenth century?
a recipe for a similar sauce, calling for "good fresh butter, a little
vinegar, salt, nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the sauce; take care that
it does not curdle." We have no ingredient measurements or proportions,
though, let alone any additional method or instructions, so it's hard
to say how close to Hollandaise this is. There are a number of examples
of contemporary French and English sauces made by beating soft or melted
butter into things like vinegar, and there seems to have been an equally
prevalent tradition in Germanic countries of thickening sauces with egg
yolks.
over a pan of hot water, and whipping them until light with vinegar,
lemon juice, salt, white and/or cayenne pepper. You then beat in melted
or clarified butter, a tiny bit at a time, as you might with mayonnaise,
until it is light yellow in color, thick, and the sharpness of the lemon
and the vinegar is a bit more subdued. More daring cooks will often omit
the bain marie / double boiler aspect, and do it right in a saucepan
over direct heat. Of course, then it is more likely to curdle and
de-emulsify or break.
believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
which offhand.
is OOP, but that there might be recognizable ancestors from within
period.
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 20:58:03 -0500
From: margali
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
>
> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but
> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,
> Holland?
>
> Stefan li Rous
something yellowish and drippy in jars they swear is hollandaise
sauce...
you take lots of butter, yolks of eggs beaten, either lemon squeezings
and zest OR an herbal vinegar, salt and pepper to taste-
get the butter melted but not boiling hot, put the eggs in a sauce pan,
and start whisking. pour the butter in while whisking until it thickens.
when the sauce is pretty much done, add the salt and pepper, and the tsp
or so of liquid flavor. provided it hasnt curdled, you have hollandaise
sauce. if you are in practice, it takes as long as the packette of
powdered stuff.
can use it to make anything calling for just the whites.
margali
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 09:58:12 PST
From: "Alderton, Philippa"
Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce
and easy.
2 teaspoons prepared mustard
1 teaspoon lemon juice
do, and don't really have the time to make a proper Hollandaise.
people, and she had a recipe for Eggs Benedict in which you poached the
eggs the night before, kept them in a pan of water overnight, and heated
and served the next day. Folks, you have not lived until you learn to poach
eggs by the pot of simmering water method, with 3 dozen eggs to have done!
I got her an egg poacher for Christmas- we still laugh about it.
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 21:56:58 EST
From: LrdRas
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Cracknels
with pork or some sort of fatty cracklings in it, but just because it
seems strange to me doesn't prove anything at all!
>>
no aversion to sweet meat, I often serve a wonderful relish made with apples,
onions, green peppers, garlic, pepper and brown sugar to accompany roast
pork.
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:10:04 EST
From: LrdRas
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
<< 3. Is mayonnaise period?
a vinegar, oil and egg and indicates that he thinks this is a "mayonnaise"
recipe. However, the majority of food experts place it well within the modern
era.
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:20:40 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau"
Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
Before that, sauces are all thickened with particulates or through
reduction. So I would say no, mayonaisse is not period.
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:40:16 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?
mayonnaise) sauce in Manuscrito Anonimo, which is a puree of garlic,
and, I think, hard-boiled egg yolks, with olive oil beaten slowly in.
That's probably about as close as you'll find until the eighteenth
century or so. If you look at one of the Spanish cold garlic soup
recipes, or a French rouille recipe, you'll find something like it,
except the period equivalent would lack the red peppers and occasional
potato found in rouille.
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 13:04:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Stephen Bloch
Subject: SC - hollandaise, aioli, almedroch
> Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I
> believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the
> other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise
> or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure
> which offhand.
recipes (our translation; be warned that neither of us has formal
training in medieval Catalan, or modern Catalan for that matter).
Sorry I don't have the original Catalan on-line; it's on paper in a
pile somewhere in this house.
If you wish to do almedroch, take grated cheese and two or three cloves
of garlic, and mince them [until they're stiff & can be shaped]. And
when they are minced, temper them with hot water, and when you
[axetars]? them, don't use the pestle to immediately disintegrate them,
but only mince them finely. And it should be of a good thick
consistency. And if perchance they are destroyed, take a large spoon,
and heat it well on the fire; and when it is well heated, put it into
the almedroch, and stir it around, and it will return to its state.
If you wish to make almedroc, you will have 2 or 3 cloves of garlic and
cheese, as in the previous recipe for almedroch. And crush them very
well, and crush into them two or three eggyolks boiled in water. And
when it is well mixed, [exetats] it with good broth and butter. And if
you don't have butter, add a little oil and good spices. And make it a
consistency that is thick, and don't cook it. And use it on pork, that
goes on the spit. And it should not be tempered, which will destroy
it, but left as flavored as it is. In the same way is made [esquesos]
garlic, but make it with more garlic. And don't put in seasonings &
spices, except to make it white and thick, and don't let it boil. And
it serves to give heat when used thus with almedroc.
"destroyed", is apparently an emulsified sauce of cheese and garlic,
and the second is the same thing with boiled eggyolks (which, as I
understand it, help to stabilize the emulsion), as well as broth and
butter.
Country Kitchen_, gives a recipe for "allioli", which she translates as
"garlic mayonnaise", made from minced garlic, a raw whole egg, olive
oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. She comments that "Purists in
Catalunya insist on making their allioli in a mortar and pestle, but I
always use a food processor...." I've read elsewhere that "purists"
don't include egg in their allioli, relying on compounds in the garlic
alone to stabilize the emulsion.
Arabo-Andalusian _manuscrito anonimo_ contains LOTS of recipes calling
for boiled eggyolks. In particular, one entitled "Cooking Stuffed
Eggplants" (which I included in my T.I. article of c. 1994, "Some Recipes
of al-Andalus"), that says "...boil eggyolks and also fry them a little..."
One possible interpretation was to boil eggs, peel them, extract the
yolks, and then fry them, but on a lark I tried separating raw eggs,
dropping the yolks gently into near-boiling water (which I had handy,
having just boiled eggplant in it), then fishing them out with a slotted
spoon and frying them in oil (which I had handy, having just fried the
eggplant in it). This works, and the yolks have a rather different
texture from what they would have if boiled inside the rest of the egg.
Stephen Bloch
sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 23:11:21 -0800
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau"
Subject: Re: SC - Garden time
root, vinegar, a bit of sugar and spice, if memory serves. Tasted just like
the non-cream style stuff out of the jar.
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:25:51 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D."
Subject: RE: SC - Pine nuts
pomegranate juice, thicken it with bread crumbs, and stir in about three
tablespoons of pine nuts.
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:12:07 -0500
From: vjarmstrong@aristotle.net (Valoise Armstrong)
Subject: Re: SC - Jellies vs. aspics
> As for cooked, sweetened, mashed fruit, you get 'mus' in
>the German corpus, which turns out like applesauce, etc., depending on
>the fruit. It is used generally as a sauce.
sauces. That's why you can find not only grape, fig, cherry, or apple mus,
but also mus recipes for wine, fish, egg, crayfish, chicken, rice, etc.
Some of them (even the fruit ones) are thickened with bread crumbs or eggs.
basically fruit thickened by cooking it down. I think Kuchenmeysterei (c.
1490) might have a recipe, I don't know of any others.
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:16:17 -0500
From: "J. Scott & Arisa Ballentine"
Subject: SC - RE: roux from a newbie
> > the flour determines the final color of the gravy, short time for white
> > gravy, browned well for up to 10 minutes for really dark gravy. It
> > develops a stronger, nutty flavor the longer it cooks (this is what the
> > Cajuns call a roux, BTW).
stages of roux:
- very strong thickening power.
color, but a distinct nutty flavor like fresh popcorn - strong
thickening power.
this roux - very little thickening power - very flavorful - most
people stop here.
this is usually taken from brown to black in a slow oven), extremely
flavorful, this is the difference between good gumbo and gumbo -
virtually no thickening power.
interesting and useful.]
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 02:47:36 EDT
From: DianaFiona@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Yikes! I'm teaching a class!
garlic as you like and likewise, as need be, grind them up well, sprinkling
them all the while so they do not make oil. When they are ground up put in
white breadcrumbs softened in juice of meat or fish, and grind again. And if
it seems too stiff it can be softened easily in the same juice. (See next
recipe.)
juice, but in must of dark grapes, squeezed by hand and cooked down for half
an hour. The same can be done with juice of cherries.
1/2 T garlic
1/4 c bread crumbs
about 1 1/2 c grape juice, then boil it down.
about 4-6 t vinegar
1/4 c water
easy, and familiar start. And, at least to me, the Benes yfryed recipe seems
dead easy. Cook beans until done (Limas make a reasonable substitute if favas
are unavailable or too "weird" ;-) ), strain and saute' in oil with chopped
onions and garlic. The dusting of powder douce to finish can be ommited if
prefered--I don't care for it much in this case, myself.
Spinach tarts are also simple if you use frozen spinach and pie shells.
Thaw the spinach, press the moisture out of it, saute' (That word again! Well,
just tell 'em to fry it. Even the younger kids know what that means....... ;-)
) in butter with spices to taste, put it in a pie shell and bake it. I seem to
remember other recipes that have either cheese or eggs included also, but I'm
not sure from whence they might have come............
A number of the desserts are easy, too--and, if you can get the equipment
on hand, doing the "period funnelcakes" would be great fun! I swear one of
these years I'm going to set up as a food merchant beside the tourney field
and sell these--I have a feeling it would be *very*
proffitable..................... ;-)
with the class!
instead of playing with cookbooks!
Vulpine Reach, Meridies
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:23:15 EDT
From: Mordonna22@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - low calcium diet help
<< or if it is possible to make
a cream sauce out of "non-dairy creamer"? or any simple and quick
multi-purpose sauces that would be low calcium? >>
Salt and pepper to taste
garlic to taste
4 heaping tbs creamer
2 rounded tbs corn starch
1/4 c water
cold water and add to boiling liquid.
stir vigorously with whisk until thickened and smooth.
Cook, Warrior Haven
(who has lived and eaten on a meagre budget at times)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:45:52 EDT
From: RuddR@aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: Walnuts
I know that Juglens nigra is native to the US, but is there an oldworld
walnut? If so, has anyone tried making "walnut milk," or seen recipes
using walnuts??
Cookery Books, p109), has walnuts, garlic, pepper, bread and salt ground
together and thinned with fish broth: thick garlic walnut milk. It goes great
with more than fish, and very easy in a blender.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:11:54 EDT
From: RuddR@aol.com
Subject: SC - 16th c. German Roux
> see if it goes with anything served above.
made it to accompany for Charles of the Park's "Fine Food Feast" posted to
the list last Sept/Oct.
goes well with light flavoured fish.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:19:39 EST
From: Balano1@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Fruit sauce/Rødegrød med Fløde
standard throughout Scandanaivia and Western Europe for time unknown. I'm
told it's one of those that everyone's grandma can make and no one really has
a recipe for but I can attest to its pervasive appearance throughout Sweden
and Germany...this is a modern adaptation -
2 Tblsp sugar
2 Tblsp arrowroot powder
1/4 cup cold water
slivered almonds
1/2 cup light cream
-
1 1/2 quart saucepan and stir in sugar. Bring to a boil stirring constantly.
Mix 2 Tbsp arrowroot powder and 2 Tblsp cold water to make a smooth paste.
Stir into sauce, let mixture thicken and remove from heat and cool. Chill
for at least 2 hours and serve with slivered almonds on top and cream on the
side.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:36:46 SAST-2
From: "Ian van Tets"
Subject: SC - Sumac revisited (Italian sauce)
discussion on a middle eastern flavouring known as Sumac. I recently
tripped across a description of a European sauce using Sumac and
thought that one or two of you might be interested.
late 14th century, was rather fond of his food. He travelled
regularly and his correspondence (much of which has survived)
often covers important topics like "what I would like for dinner when
I come home". Among his favourite sauces was savore sanguino,
which was made by "pounding raisons, cinnamon, sandal and sumac
together and mixing them with wine and meat".
(the revised edition published in English by Penguin in 1963). Origo
cites the following as her source:
Biblioteca Marucelliana, Florence, Manoscritti, C. 226 (a
miscellaneous codex of the 15th century), p. 128
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:58:01 -0500
From: renfrow@skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)
Subject: Re: SC - Blue Sauce - Maybe chestnuts?
Epulario (p. 32) for 'skie color sauce in summer' which calls for
mulberries: "Take wild mulberies which grow in the Hedges, and a few
stamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper all this with Veriuice and
straine it."
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 00:12:23 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Sauces for Roast Pork
> I am the head cook for our shire's event in May. The main dish for the feast
> will be spit-roasted pork (ie we are having someone come in to do a pig
> roast). I would like suggestions for 2-3 sauces that could be spooned onto
> the meat after the diner gets it on his plate. The remainder of the feast is
> primarily 14th century English and French, and I would prefer recipes that fit
> into those parameters.
people put garlic, onions, wine, and verjuice in the pan with the
drippings from the meat and make a sauce with that. Kind of like sauce
Robert without the mustard.
it with Cameline Sauce, it should be served with a hot Yellow Pepper
Sauce. Of that, Poivre Jaunet, he says to grind ginger, long pepper,
saffron -- and some people add in cloves with a little verjuice -- and
toast; infuse this in vinegar (or verjuice) and boil it when you are
about to serve your meat.
to be excellent with it, is Garlic Jance, made from ginger, garlic and
almonds, ground, infused in verjuice and boiled until thickened. He says
some people put white wine in it too. It's a little like a modern Greek
Skordalia...
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:13:38 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning
Subject: SC - Opusculum de saporibus (was: Welcome ...) / sauce for lamprey
de Saporibus, roughly, Little Book of Condiments, a sauce book in Latin,
which appears to have been plagiarized by Arnald de Villanova in his
much-more-well-known Regimen Sanitatis. >>
Magninus died about 1364. The first texts of Magninus mentioned by
THorndike are from the 1320ies, when Arnald was long dead.
by THorndike, it was the other way round:
mediolanensis sibi appropriavit addendo et immutando nonnulla" (p. 184
note 8, continued from p. 183).
Roughly: Here begins the book about the healthy way of life by Arnald of
Villanova, that Magninus of Milano 'made his own', whereby he added and
changed quite a bit.
Magninus Mediolanensis_" (Medium Aevum 54, 1985, 178-207) holds, that
the Regimen is the work of Magninus. In this case, the Regimen could
have been incorporated into the collected works of Arnald by the
_editors_ of Arnalds collected works.
list:
gariofilorum gallange granorum paradisi ana 3. m. panis assi infusi in
aceto medium. Distemperetur cum pinguedine piscis et agresta et bulliat.
Vel potest fieri gellatina superius scripta. Et sicut dictum est de
lampreda similiter intelligatur de murena." (p. 188)
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909/sapor.htm
or via
http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909 (choose "Alte Kochbuecher")
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 05:42:14 +1000
From: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks"
Subject: SC - Sauce recipe for Lamb Shanks
> (and preferably simple) sauce recipe to go over some roasted
> lamb shanks I'm serving at a feast. Something from around
> 1200-1350 would be ideal, but with a month to go I'm open to
> all suggestions.
Medieval Kitchen. The recipe is for Chicken but the sauce is really yummy
with lamb!!!
cooked, take orange juice or verjuice with rosewater, sugar and cinnamon and
place the chicken on a platter; and pour this mixture over it and send it to
table. (Maestro Martino, Libro de Atre Coquinaria, no 127)
tablespoon rose water
1/2 tea sugar
1 pinch ground cinnamon
salt to taste
separately and thicken with cornflour. Presto - Gravy for Coeliac (allergic
to gluten) people.
Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 21:31:39 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanks
> Thank you all for the recipe suggestions. If someone would like to post the
> recipe for the cameline sauce that would be great.
the others are all, to some extent, like prepared mustard made with
cinnamon instead of mustard seed. For this reason, in spite of the fact
that this source (The Forme of Cury, ~1390 C.E.) is somewhat later than
the dates you specified, I thought this would be the best for your needs.
crustes of brede & powdour of gynger, clowes, flour of canel; bray it
wel togyder and do (th)erto salt. Temper it vp with vyneger, and serue
it forth."
maybe hazelnuts], crusts of bread, powdered ginger, powdered cloves, and
ground cinnamon, and pulverize it all together [in a mortar] and add
salt. Mix it til smooth with vinegar and serve.
approximately equal quantities of currants and nutmeats would be about
right, with about half as much of the heel of, say, a whole wheat loaf,
as of either the nuts or the currants. Cinnamon should definitely
predominate among the spices, with just touches of ginger and clove, and
a mild vinegar like malt, sherry or white wine vinegar to your own taste
and preferred consistency. Salt to taste. I wouldn't serve this
immediately, in spite of the recipe. I'd give it an hour or two at least
to sit before serving, and mix it well at the last minute before dishing
it up.
Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:16:06 EDT
From: Korrin S DaArdain
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanks
>Thank you all for the recipe suggestions. If someone would like to
>post the recipe for the cameline sauce that would be great.
Kingdom of An Tir in the Society for Creative Anachronism.
Korrin.DaArdain@Juno.com
Cameline Sauce (French, 14th c.)
Goodman p. 286/25
From Cariadoc's Miscellany, Copyright © by David Friedman, 1988,
1990, 1992.
Note that at Tourney to make cameline they bray ginger, cinnamon
and saffron and half a nutmeg moistened with wine, then take it out of
the mortar; then have white bread crumbs, not toasted but moistened in
cold water and brayed in the mortar, moisten them with wine and strain
them, then boil all together and put in brown sugar last of all; and that
is winter cameline. And in summer they do the same but it is not boiled.
Sweet spicy Sweet & spicy
ginger 1 t 1 t 1 t
cinnamon 1 t 1 t 1 t
saffron medium pinch for all 3
nutmeg 1 whole 1/2 whl 1/2 whle
wine 2 T 1/2 c 1/2 c
bread crumbs 3 T 2 T 2 T
brown sugar 2 T 1 t 1 T
cold water 2 c 1 c 1 c
Grind smoothly until well ground, add bread crumbs, grind smooth,
add water and wine, bring it to a boil, simmer until thickened and add
the brown sugar.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cameline Meat Brewet & Sauce
From The Goodman of Paris. Posted by Master Huen / James L.
Matterer (jmattere@weir.net)
This cold meat dish comes from a reference in The Goodman of
Paris, which lists a Parisian feast of 1393 where there was served "a
cameline meat brewet - pieces of meat in a thin cinnamon sauce." Although
it is not known exactly how this particular dish was prepared, this
recipe is an approximation of how such a meat brewet may have been
created. Curye on Inglish describes two cold brewets, one without meat
(p. 128) and one with (p. 129).
2 lbs. beef, sliced into thin strips
1 tsp. butter
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Meat butter in pan, add meat and seasonings and saute until done.
Drain well and let cool. Place meat in a sealable container and add
Cameline Sauce to cover. Refrigerate for several days, agitating
container once a day. Remone from marinade and serve cold or at room
temperature. Serves 4 - 8.
------------------------------
Cameline Sauce
"Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon, mace, long pepper if
you wish, then squeeze out bread soaked in vinegar and strain it all
together and salt it just right." - Le Viandier de Taillevent, from Food
in History, p. 219.
Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the description
in Le Viandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as its
predominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises us that
not all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that in mind,
the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe.
1 c. each cider vinegar and water
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. each of ginger, cloves, mace, cardamon, pepper, and salt
Combine liquids, add spices and mix thoroughly with a wire whisk.
Taste for seasonings and adjust accordingly. Use immediately or
refrigerate for later use.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 17:54:33 EDT
From: ChannonM@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanks
Viander de Taillevent²(1380), ³Le Menagier de Paris²(1393), ³The Forme of
Cury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery (1390). This condiment is used to
accompany cooked meats and poultry and has a poignant taste reminiscent of
modern day ³steak sauce². The following is an exerp from ³Le Menagier de
Taillevent²;
and half a nutmeg moistened with wine, then take it out of the mortar, then
have white breadcrumbs, not toasted but moistened them with wine strain them,
then boil all together and put brown sugar last of all and that is winter
cameline. And in summer they do the same, but it is not boiled.
And in truth, to my taste, the winter sort is good but in (summer) that which
followeth is far better, bray a little ginger and a great deal of cinnamon,
then take it out and have toasted bread moistened, or plenty of bread
raspings in vinegar, brayed and strained.
Firstly, I have used the boiling method and use of wine of the first recipe,
and secondly I utilized the spice content of the latter recipe. I have also
canned the end product using modern methods, with excellent results.
1tsp ground ginger 2 tbsp verjuice or lemon juice
3tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp cider vinegar
1/3 cup white wine 1/4 cup white bread crumbs
3 tbsp brown sugar(packed)
with a spoon to extract as much of the liquid as possible. Boil the liquid
about 5 minutes. You can now can the sauce or use it immediately
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 14:56:52 EDT
From: Elysant@aol.com
Subject: SC - Cameline Sauce
made at Pennsic on the list. So here it is. :-) Sorry to be a "spoon tease"
;-).
It is to be found in Cariadoc's second volume of Medieval and Rennaissance
Cookbooks (Seventh Edition).
and did not have time to write anything down, so the amounts quoted in the
recipe below are as I remember them. Also, please know that I was making an
amount of sauce for a small side dish, which perhaps would have been
sufficient for about 4 people in my estimation.
of paradise, mastic, long pepper if you like; then soak bread in vinegar, and
take it out, and salt to taste."
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon cloves (whole)
1/2 teaspoon grains of paradise
1/4 teaspoon mastic
2 medium long peppers
1/4 cup fine breadcrumbs
1 cup red wine vinegar
salt to taste
add the breadcrumbs and vinegar. Stir. Let the sauce mixture sit for about
5 minutes, then pour it through a sieve into a second bowl, working the
bread/spice mixture as much as possible through the sieve with the back of a
spoon in a firm stroking motion (be sure to add the sieved mixture from the
underside of the sieve to the sauce in the bowl). To finish the recipe,
taste the sauce, and add salt as needed.
- The finished sauce was added to Ras's recipe for diced Lamb's
Testicles just before the dish was served.
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:10:01 EDT
From: Elysant@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - white sals
> margali@99main.com writes:
> << Any chance of getting Cariadoc's white sals recipe we made at Pensic?
> margali
> the recipe was in Cariadoc's Collection of Medieval and Renaissance
> Cookbooks, Vol. II, The Book of the Beloved; 'White Sals'.
actually goes not only to Lord Ras, but also to myself, and to Puck. :-)
Original (translation)-
White sals. Walnut meats, garlic, pepper, cinnamon, white mustard, Tahini and
lemon juice.
White sals
(copyright c 1999 Ras, Elysant, Puck)
2 cloves Garlic
1/8 tsp. Black pepper, ground
1/2 tsp. True cinnamon, ground
3/4 tsp. prepared mustard (see notes below)
2 Tblsp Tahini
Lemon juice, as needed
paste. Put walnut mixture in a bowl. Add pepper. cinnamon, mustard and
Tahini. Mix thoroughly adding lemon juice by the teaspoonful until a smooth
very thick mixture is achieved.
east in another section of Caraidoc's Collection. We used a modern mustard
that most fit this description. Any country-style mustard would work.
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 00:50:03 +0100
From: Thomas Gloning
Subject: SC - Cameline sauce from the 'Vivendier'
of the 'Vivendier', a 15th century French cookery text, edited from a
manuscript now in the Gesamthochschul-Bibliothek Kassel (publ. with
Prospect books, 1997; not the same as the 'Viandier'!).
sy le mettez temprer en vin rouge et vin aigre, passé parmy l'estamine,
canelle assez, et gingembre, clou, graine, macis, poivre long et saffren
un poy et sel; faictez boullir ou non boullir comme vouldrez; aucun y
mettent du chucquere." (Scully, Vivendier, 1997, p. 35).
to temper in red wine and vinegar, and strain it, along with a good deal
of cinnamon, and ginger, cloves, grains of paradise, mace, long pepper
and a little saffron. Finish it off either boiled or not as you like.
Some people put sugar in it." (Translation T. Scully p. 35; follow some
comments).
au Moyen Âge, p. 94.
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:11:56 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Cameline sauce from the 'Vivendier'
> "Pour faire une saulse cameline: prenez pain blancq harlé sur le greil,
> sy le mettez temprer en vin rouge et vin aigre, passé parmy l'estamine,
> canelle assez, et gingembre, clou, graine, macis, poivre long et saffren
> un poy et sel; faictez boullir ou non boullir comme vouldrez; aucun y
> mettent du chucquere." (Scully, Vivendier, 1997, p. 35).
>
> 'To make a Cameline Sauce. Get white bread toasted on the grill, set it
> to temper in red wine and vinegar, and strain it, along with a good deal
> of cinnamon, and ginger, cloves, grains of paradise, mace, long pepper
> and a little saffron. Finish it off either boiled or not as you like.
> Some people put sugar in it." (Translation T. Scully p. 35; follow some
> comments).
Viandier, as previously posted. It's worth noting, however, that Scully,
in _his_ translation of le Viandier, notes the reference to mastic in
one of the manuscripts, and the several references to mace in the same
recipe in other manuscripts, and concludes, rightly or wrongly, that a
scribe misspelled or misread "macis" as "mastic". I'm not prepared to
say, "This is definitely how it is," but it seems fairly plausible that
mace is intended, rather than mastic. Maybe the scribe was just really
a man, or lady, of taste, and decided that mastic would be better.
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:40:50 -0500
From: "Michael F. Gunter"
Subject: SC - Cameline Sauce from the Vivendier
<<< This recipe is actually fairly similar to the one in the earlier
Viandier, as previously posted. >>>
the earlier post, seems to be a translation of #155 in the VAT- or the
BN-Version (the manuscripts now in the Biblioth $BoR (Jue Nationale and
the Vatican): 'Cameline Sauce. Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon,
mace [=BN], long pepper if you wish, then squeeze out bread soaked in
vinegar and strain it [=VAT] all together and salt it just right. (Le
Viandier de Taillevent, from Food in History, p. 219).'
Viandier, notes the reference to mastic in one of the manuscripts, and
the several references to mace in the same recipe in other manuscripts,
>>>
only have the passage with _macis/mastic_: three of them have _mastic_,
only one of them has _macis_: the manuscript in the BN. In the oldest
version, the Valais manuscript, this part of the recipe lacks.
misread "macis" as "mastic". >>>
mentions, is, that the dictionaries show only medical uses of mastic,
that mastic is "extremely rare in mediaeval European cooking" (p. 220 n.
3), and that an error was easily possible because of many variant
spellings. Thus: "Its presence [i.e. of mastic] in the _Viandier_
remains doubtful". "Doubtful", this is a cautious conclusion. Anyway,
the translation has "mace".
Harpestraeng, (J Magninus, Libre del coch). It is a
pleasure to work with such a rich edition!
Thomas
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 07:19:36 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy
Subject: Re: SC - Cameline sauce from the 'Vivendier'
> Adamantius notes:
> > Maybe the scribe was just really
> > a man, or lady, of taste, and decided that mastic would be better.
>
> Does this mean that you have tried the recipe both ways, with mastic,
> and with mace instead of mastic, and decided that you prefer the
> version with mastic?
I've eaten mastic in other foods, and suspect I'd prefer the version
with mace. I was joking, somewhat, and acknowledging that the sauce made
with mastic might be perfectly good. We have seen good evidence that it was.
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 09:40:15 EDT
From: WOLFMOMSCA@aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Preserves & Sauces - recipes wanted
also makes a great condiment for burgers on the barby.
having sliced and peeled them, boyle them in fair water with Pepper, Salt,
and a few bread crummes: then put unto it a spoonfull or two of claret Wine,
the juyce of an Orenge, and three or four slices of Lemmon peel: all these
shred together, and so pour it upon the Capon being broke up.
1/4 tsp. minced lemon peel
2 Tbsp. dry red or white wine (Your choice, I've used both with equal success)
1 1/2 cups OJ (fresh-squeezed is best, but country-style with the pulp works
fine)
2 Tbsp bread crumbs
Salt
Pepper (both to taste)
you like it. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Add the
rest of the ingredients, bring back to a boil, and simmer until it thickens
up a bit. Serve it forth, as the saying goes.
leftovers, so I chucked it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the freezer. I
thawed it out in August for a roast beef dinner, and it was just fine. Be
aware that freezing this will cause the onions to somehow become more
onion-y. I don't know why (that's the science of cookery). But it worked
quite well. It also worked well as an ingredient in everyday meatloaf. Came
out quite yummy.
All Rights Reserved
Comments to author: stefan@florilegium.org
Generated: Sun Mar 5 2000