frumenty-msg - 9/7/08 A period cooked grain dish often with eggs, cream and saffron. NOTE: See also the files: rice-msg, grains-msg, puddings-msg, breakfast-msg, venison-msg, eggs-msg, polenta-msg, custards-msg, rice-pudding-msg, porridges-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: Philip & Susan Troy Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 09:14:48 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - cooking frumenty for the masses Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: > Does anyone have experience cooking barley for large numbers of people? > We will be making frumenty outdoors, and I need to know how it bulks up > for say, 100 bodies. Is it like rice, ie touchy but doable if you know > how? Or is it like pasta where if you give it enough water it's fine? I've never cooked barley in large quantities outdoors, but I do know a few things about it. To be on the safe side, I'd say it's better to compare it to rice than to pasta, because if you just boil it till it's done, and then drain it, it has a tendency to become cemented together by gravity. You also lose a certain amount of the nutritional value by filling up your cooking water with barley tea and throwing it away, but in the case of pearl barley it may be a moot point. If you're going for a final product which people can neatly pigeonhole into some prior experience, I suggest you cook it like a pilaf. To do that, you need 6 cups of boiling liquid per pound of barley, which equals approximately two cups, BTW. Toss the barley in a pan with a bit of hot oil or butter, until the barley is well coated with the oil and begins to toast a bit, and have your liquid on the boil in a separate pot. Combine, cover, and simmer on LOW heat for 25 -30 minutes. Depending on how much you're cooking, it may well really want to burn before the top layer is done, so you may want to consider cooking two or three smaller batches, and use the heaviest pots you can get away with. > I just fear ending up with a gloppy mess (thereby undoing all thepositive > propaganda I've been giving out about medieval food not being brown > gloppy messes!). Now, this is all with the understanding that frumenty is supposed to have a consistency something like a risotto or rice pudding: spoonable but cohesive; in a word, stondyng. However, I'll grant that that might not be what you necessarily need under your current circumstances. It just occurred to me that you might consider bulgur wheat, which is precooked, and wheat being, so far as I know, the more standard grain for frumenty anyway. I'm thinking that bulgur cooks very much like Minute (Pfeh!) Rice, especially the smaller-cut varieties of bulgur. You could essentially pour your boiling liquid over the bulgur, cover it, and let the wheat drink up the liquid, with no possibility of burning. Bulgur gets 2 parts liquid to one of bulgur by volume, same as rice. Better to use too little liquid than too much; if it's too dry or hard you can add more boiling liquid. Bulgur generally takes about 20 minutes to "cook", and the initial coating with oil is optional. You might consider it anyway if you're really concerned about the glop factor. G. Tacitus Adamantius From: Mary Morman Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 08:27:17 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: SC - cooking frumenty for the masses On Wed, 25 Jun 1997, Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: > Does anyone have experience cooking barley for large numbers of people? I have made frumenty outside for about 100 people. Did it at a camping event three years ago. I did not make a 'savory' frumenty with broth but a plain frumenty cooked in milk. we served it with cream and strawberries. I know this is not traditional, but the cooking should be fairly similar. doing it in broth may actually be easier. I used cracked wheat rather than barley, and the trick was to warm the liquid through before adding the grain and then keep stirring without a stop (three people, almost two hours) and keep the heat steady - not too hot, but not let it cool off. the resulting porridge was indeed brown and gloppy, but, sweetened with a little honey, tasted marvelous. let me know if you need anything more specific. and oh, I used a double bottomed stock pot filled about 3/4 full and a very large wooden spoon for stirring. elaina From: Mark Schuldenfrei Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 11:57:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SC - cooking frumenty for the masses Adamantius wrote: It just occurred to me that you might consider bulgur wheat, which is precooked, and wheat being, so far as I know, the more standard grain for frumenty anyway. I'm thinking that bulgur cooks very much like Minute (Pfeh!) Rice, especially the smaller-cut varieties of bulgur. You could essentially pour your boiling liquid over the bulgur, cover it, and let the wheat drink up the liquid, with no possibility of burning. Bulgur gets 2 parts liquid to one of bulgur by volume, same as rice. Better to use too little liquid than too much; if it's too dry or hard you can add more boiling liquid. Bulgur generally takes about 20 minutes to "cook", and the initial coating with oil is optional. You might consider it anyway if you're really concerned about the glop factor. I cook a wide variety of grains at home, because of my limited diet. The true advantage of bulgur is as he describes: add liquid, mix, cover and ignore. My wife has done this for frumenty for feasts, and it works well. The only concern I might have for you, is that by cooking out of doors a strong wind can rob your kettles of heat too quickly. You may wish to consider setting up a windbreak, to keep all of your cooking times more predictable. Tibor (Watched a 2 hour dish become a 4 hour dish that way...) From: nweders at mail.utexas.edu (ND Wederstrandt) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 11:37:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: SC - cooking frumenty for the masses I have cooked outdoors with grains quite a bit since we wind up with lots of outdoor events. I made a mushroom barley stew with leeks out doors. I like barley which has a nutty taste that works well with stews. The best thing I found is to cook smaller batches and mix them together. The biggest problem with grains being cooked on Colemans, over fires and such is too often the pot is too big and isn't stirred well so the bottom burns. I use 3 gal pots and mix them when they are hot.. Our events usually have a minimum of 150 hungry people with a maximum of 350 or 400 and the smaller pots work better even though the dish takes longer to cook. Another idea is to precook your grains a bring them out to reheat and mix with any other ingredients. Again I think smaller pots work better than large. One of the best outdoor heating facilities I ever used was a water heater bottom hooked up to a butane tank. It could boil a 25 gal pot of hot water in less than two minutes. Really good...... Clare St. John From: L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 21:07:57 -0500 (CDT) Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #177 >Does anyone have experience cooking barley for large numbers of people? >We will be making frumenty outdoors, and I need to know how it bulks up >for say, 100 bodies. Is it like rice, ie touchy but doable if you know >how? Or is it like pasta where if you give it enough water it's fine? > >- --Anne-Marie d'Ailleurs Hi there! My group does a demo twice a year with another group called the holistic consortium. You guessed it...we have to serve some vegetarian fare. I have watched my friend Rowan of Ashebrook making vegetarian barley for the demo just like one would make rosotto--brown the barley with a good quality oil astirring in a ladle full of extra-rich broth at a time, till it is absorbed, and continuing until the alotted amount is used up, stirring, stirring all the way. She sautes seasonal veggies and stirs them in at the last, along with the spices. She uses a pan from a warming table for the correct size to serve about 100 servings. We always sell out. A friend says one of the benefits of being a scadian is that cooks in the SCA know how to make you WANT to eat Barley! BTW I like my risotto the day afterward, mixed with a beaten egg and fried into cakes in the griddle. Yum! I suppose there no hope THAT practice is period? Aoife From: rousseau at scn.org (Anne-Marie Rousseau) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 22:38:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: SC - Frumenty for the masses, continued Hi all from Anne-Marie. Wow! Some great suggestions! First off, I should remind you guys that I am a real stickler for documentation and sticking to the original source, so the wonderful ideas about lighty toasting the barley in oil before cooking is right out (not in the original text I'm using). Now, for my modern cooking, that's another story! (actually, my biriyani recipe has you do that with the rice. Yum!) The original source that we're using is the Frumenty from Curye on English. "Nym clene wete and bray it in a morter wel, that the holys gon al of, & set yt til ty breset; & nym yt up & lat it kele. And nyum fayre fresch broth & smete muylk of almandys or swete mulk of kyne and temper yt al. & nym the yolkys of eryrn & saffron & do thereto. Boyle it a lityl & set yt adoun, & messe yt forthe wyth fat venysoun & fresch motoun". I am choosing to use barley, as there is a similar recipe for barley gruel in the contemporary _le Menagier a Paris_, and I prefer barley to wheat (and also we are playing the conceit of an English Baron and Baroness with a French cook). Our reconstruction: 2 cups hulled barley 5 1/5 cups vegetable broth 1/2 cup cows milk pinch of saffron 4 egg yolks Bring the broth and milk to a boil. Stir in the barley. Cover with a tight lid and allow to simmer over low heat for about 40 minutes, until barley is tender. Stir in the beaten egg yolks and saffron, and cook gently a few more minutes until the egg is set. The resulting dish is a very rich barley. Slightly gloppy, but still discernable grains. Outstanding as a foil to something else, like sliced meat or stewed mushrooms. - --AM +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Anne-Marie Rousseau rousseau at scn.org Seattle, Washington From: david friedman Date: Sat, 28 Jun 1997 14:45:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty for the masses, continued At 10:38 PM -0700 6/26/97, Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: Maeve suggested a quick boil then sit aside to let >it absorbe the rest of the liquid...that might work. I'll try it in a >small test batch with my crummiest pot to duplicate the conditions as >best I can :). Our standard way of making rice in quantity (i.e., 3 to 5 gallons) is to bring the water to a boil (having previously tested that variety of rice to get an idea what the water-to-rice ratio is), add the rice, bring back to a boil while stirring, cover, and remove from heat; let sit 20-30 minutes and it is done. You may be able to scrounge lids for your pots--find large platters or frying pans that would do--and wrap old towels around and over to insulate, since you are cooking outdoors. The once we did a larger quantity--a 9-gallon pot, nearly full-- it was too much; the stuff at the bottom was squished down into a solid mass by the weight on top. We haven't tried this for frumenty. Betty Cook/Elizabeth From: Philip & Susan Troy Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 04:29:17 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty for the masses, continued Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: > Elizabeth tells us how they make rice, and suggests it might work for barley. > > I'm wondering, though, how that works then for the final stage of > stirring in the egg yolks. You'd need to stir the big pot of stuff over > heat and make sure all the egg set, but that the stuff didn't burn. Hmmm... > > Thanks for the ideas! Keep 'em coming! > --Anne-Marie Another possibility is to make a stirred, unsweetened custard with the egg yolks and some portion of the total liquid. You could add your saffron to it, too. When your grain is 90% cooked and still hot, and your custard is still warm, you can begin stirring the grain into the custard, a little at a time, until they're fully combined. Then cover the stuff and leave it to finish cooking in its residual heat. This may take a little extra management of pots and pans, but it should preclude burning. I don't think, given the proportion of egg yolks to grain, that there would be a significant difference in the final texture just because you don't have the structural support offered by a baked or unstirred custard. Adamantius From: Uduido at aol.com Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 08:42:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: SC - Stirring in the eggs << I'm wondering, though, how that works then for the final stage of stirring in the egg yolks. You'd need to stir the big pot of stuff over heat >> Actually, leaving the grain on the heat when stirring in the eggs is totally unnecessary to set them. The heat from the food is more than adequate to cook the egg. Just stir in and cover. Leave sit 5 mins. or so. Voila! Set eggs. :-) Lord Ras Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:15:15 -0800 From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" Subject: Re: SC - recipes (vegetarian) Hi all from Anne-Marie My favorite (so far! :)) vegetarian documented period recipe is frumenty (barley), espeicially when served with a big scoop of funges on top. If you have specific questions on my reconstrucions, feel free to ask away. Oh, and if you do use these, all I ask is that you let me know (I get a buzz off knowing people are eating my food all over the place! :)) enjoy! FRUMENTY (Diuersa Servicia #1, c. 1399) For to make furmenty. Nym clene wete & bray it in a morter wel, that the holys gon al of, & seyt yt til ty breste; & nym yt up & lat it kele. And nyum fayre fresch broth & swete mylk of almandys or swete mylk of kyne and temper yt al. & nym the yolkys of eyryn & saffron & do thereto. Boyle it a lityl & set yt adoun, & messe yt forthe wyth fat venysoun & fresch motoun. 1 cup pearl barley 2 3/4 cups veggie broth 1/4 cup milk pinch saffron 1 egg Stir barley into broiling broth, along with saffron. Cover pan and cook over very low heat 30-50 minutes. Stir in beaten egg. Stir over very low heat for a few minutes before serving. Serves 6. Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 23:05:31 -0800 From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty for the Masses, revisited Hi all from Anne-Marie Kat asks about preparing large amounts of frumenty. We did it for 150 with great ease. We did the English meat day version, substituting barley for the wheat (I can provide documentation and justification on request). We were going to serve it at an outdoor event, and would ahve very limited facilities. I was desperately afraid that it would burn or scorch or turn out as a gloppy grey mess. What we did was two days before the event, cook the barley in the broth and milk with the saffron. When the barley was perfectly done, we stirred in the raw beaten egg yolks. We then sealed the slimey mess in boil in the bag seal-a-meals (NOT ZIPLOCKS!!!). The bags were then stored in coolers with ice until they were ready to be served. Right before mealtime on site, we heated up large kettles of water using monster propane cookstoves, like you get at Costco up here. The bags of frumenty were dropped in the boiling water bath. The raw egg cooked as the stuff heated up. You could tell they were done because the cold solid mass of barley became soft and pliable within the bag. The bags were removed from the boiling water bath, cut open, and the frumenty dumped into a large serving dish. Tadaaaa! no burning, no scorching, no gloppy grey mess. And most tasty with a big scoopful of Funges (stewed mushrooms and leeks with spices) on top. Yum yum yum! Good luck! - --Anne-Marie Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 22:35:04 -0800 From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" Subject: Re: SC - Re: Frumenty for the Masses, Revisited Hi all from Anne-Marie.... Kat says... > > Not Ziplocs because of the danger of leakage, I assume? Yep. Especially after being shoved into a very full cooler and then dumped into a pot of boiling water. Better safe than sorry. The sealer bags are cheaper than zippies anyway. > Did you let the cooked grain cool to room temp. first before stirring the raw beaten eggs in? Not on purpose...we just let it sit long enough to get the bags ready and whatever else on the stove to a good point where we could walk away. In hindsight, it probably doesnt mattter too much as long as you stir really well before you bag. The original has you add the egg to the hot barley anyway. > Just out of curiosity, what seasonings do you use in your Fungys? I'm using saffron, pepper and a little cubeb (and I'm using homemade veggie broth rather than chicken stock this time, since I've had veggie RSVPs); but I'm open to other varieties as well... :-) and I LOOOOOOVE this dish; so any excuse to make a "test batch" for dinner... Me too! One of my favorites. I flavor mine with a good dose of poudre forte (cinnamon, ginger, a tad of clove and grains of paradise. Tony a la World Spice has my recipe on file and so I can just get a bag of it whenever I want) plus the saffron. I used veggie broth (I found the Swansons brand to be the tastiest, though the label says it contains very unfortunate new world ingredients. For us the biggest thing was that it NOT contain MSG, which several people in our barony have problems with) as well as the requisite leeks. The secret, I found was to boil the stuff for a very long time until there was very little broth left. The leeks cooked down to almost nothing and the stuff was very very flavorful! Yum! Good luck! Starch in mass quantities is intimidating to me. This method worked well for us, and I hope it serves you too. - --AM Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 21:36:47 -0800 From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" Subject: SC - SC-reconstructions of medieval grain and legume dishes Hi all from Anne-Marie as promised, here's my reconstructions for medieval dishes that can be used to combine grains and legumes. As Cariadoc has pointed out, this is not a medieval concept, but these are reconstructions of medieval dishes, so I guess its better than sneaking in your Veggie burger cuz there's nothing else to eat. Once again, formatting didn't transfer over well, and so if you need citations, etc, let me know. And, of course, as always, if you choose to use my recipes, that's great, just let me know and please cite me appropriately. Thanks, and enjoy! - --AM FRUMENTY (Diuersa Servicia #1, c1399) For to make furmenty. Nym clene wete & bray it in a morter wel, that the holys gon al of, & seyt yt til yt breste; & nym yt up & lat it kele. And nyum fayre fresch broth & swete mylk of almandys or swete mylk of kyne and temper yt al. & nym the yolkys of eyryn & saffron & do thereto. Boyle it a lityl & set yt adoun, & messe yt forthe wyth fat venysoun & fresch motoun. 1 cup pearl barley 2 3/4 cups Swanson's brand vegetable broth 1/4 cup whole milk pinch saffron 2 egg yolks Stir the barley into the boiling broth, along with the saffron. Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid and cook over very low heat 30-50 minutes, until grain is tender. Stir in beaten egg yolks. Stir over very low heat for a few minutes until the egg sets. Serve hot. Serves 6 (1/2 cup cooked barley per person) Reconstruction notes: The original text of the English recipe calls for wheat, which is boiled until the hulls come off and grains swell and burst. There is a similar recipe in le Menagier de Paris that uses barley instead of wheat, as well as a recipe for frumenty that specifies to "hull your wheat the same as you would for hulled barley". Based on this, and the conceit of a French cook, we chose to use hulled barley instead of wheat. Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:03:07 -0500 From: mermayde at juno.com (Christine A Seelye-King) Subject: Re: SC - Suggestions for vegetarian "main" dish needed >Roast venison with pepper sauce > >Apple tart (V) > >As you can see, we need a vegetarian dish to complement the roast >venison. >Brangwayna The most obvious choice to me would be a frumenty. The grains for the dish varied, but basically it was a dish made of cooked grains (barley, wheat, oats, etc.). As an accompaniment to venison, it ususally had meat chunks and/or fat in it, and sometimes was made with saffron and/or with eggs and cream to make it rich. For a vegetarian version, I would cook your grains in a broth (our store sells a very good vegetarian broth, chicken and beef flavors!). I have added onions and mushrooms to mine (The "briw" that I made for the Pennsic Cooks Reception was mixed grains, -cause I had lots of different grains left over and not enough of any one to make a whole dish, cooked with chicken soup [with onions], a bit of salt and pepper, and sliced mushrooms added at the end of the cooking process. It was quite tasty.) I wouldn't try to do without the meat-flavored broth though, a big part of the richness of the dish comes from that flavor - otherwise, you've got gruel! (which is what I'm telling my roommate it is;) The Bayeaux Tapestry has pictures of the feast for William, and it has been conjectured tha two of the dishes are Venison and Frumenty. Good luck, Christianna think I'll go warm up some gruel for dinner :) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:11:04 EST From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - cooking frumenty lainie at gladstone.uoregon.edu writes: << Something just popped out of the back of my head regarding frumently, and I though I'd ask- how do you keep it from scorching, particularly in large batches? >> Bring the water to a rolling boil, add seasonings, fat and other things except grain. Bring to a rolling boil again. Add grain; stirring as you add it. This can be accomplished with one person stirring while the other pours. Bring to a boil again making sure you stir the grain FREQUENTLY lifting it from the bottom. Cover TIGHTLY. Turn off heat. DO NOT LIFT THE LID.Leave covered for about 30 to 40 minutes. DO NOT LIFT THE LID. This should produce mass cooked grains that are fully cooked and unscorched. Ras Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 16:42:26 -0800 From: david friedman Subject: Re: SC - Suggestions for vegetarian "main" dish needed Brangwayna also asked about cooking frumenty; here is our current recipe: Frumente Curye on Inglysch p. 98 (Forme of Cury no. 1) To make frumente. Tak clene whete & braye yt wel in a morter tyl the holes gon of; sethe it til it breste in water. Nym it vp & lat it cole. Tak good broth & swete mylk of kyn or of almand & tempere it therwith. Nym yelkys of eyren rawe & saffroun & cast therto; salt it; lat it nought boyle after the eyren been cast therinne. Messe it forth with venesoun or with fat motoun fresch. [end of original; thorns replaced by th's] 1 c cracked wheat 2 c water 1/3 c chicken broth 1/3 c whole milk (or almond milk) 2 egg yolks 4 threads saffron 1/2 t salt Bring water to a boil. Add wheat and bring back to a boil, cook about 10 min, then remove lid and cool, with occasional stirring to hasten the cooling and break up the pasty lumps. Crush saffron into a little of the broth; add saffron, broth and whole milk to the wheat and heat. When heated through, stir in egg yolks and salt. Frumenty is traditionally served with venison; this recipe also suggests serving with mutton. Elizabeth/Betty Cook Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:06:58 -0800 From: Anne-Marie Rousseau Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty Recipes Hi all from Anne-Marie Here's the version of frumenty I did for our BoonDay meal a few years back. Check out _Serve it Forth_ if you want the whole article! We made it in smallish batches up to the point where you put in the raw egg and put it in sealed boiling bags (NOT ZIPLOCKS!). On site we got big pots of water boiling and dropped the bags in. When the hard cold lumps became soft and pliable, the egg was cooked and the stuff was hot through. worked like a charm, though not period in method at all. We did this up the hill from the event so no one would have their little medieval dream shattered :). The food was carried down from the "kitchen" on big boards by burley servers, just like a Brugel painting :). Good luck! - --AM FRUMENTY (Diuersa Servicia #1, c1399) For to make furmenty. Nym clene wete & bray it in a morter wel, that the holys gon al of, & seyt yt til yt breste; & nym yt up & lat it kele. And nyum fayre fresch broth & swete mylk of almandys or swete mylk of kyne and temper yt al. & nym the yolkys of eyryn & saffron & do thereto. Boyle it a lityl & set yt adoun, & messe yt forthe wyth fat venysoun & fresch motoun. 1 cup pearl barley 2 3/4 cups Swanson's brand vegetable broth 1/4 cup whole milk pinch saffron 2 egg yolks Stir the barley into the boiling broth, along with the saffron. Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid and cook over very low heat 30-50 minutes, until grain is tender. Stir in beaten egg yolks. Stir over very low heat for a few minutes until the egg sets. Serve hot. Serves 6 (1/2 cup cooked barley per person) Reconstruction notes: The original text of the English recipe calls for wheat, which is boiled until the hulls come off and grains swell and burst. There is a similar recipe in le Menagier de Paris that uses barley instead of wheat, as well as a recipe for frumenty that specifies to "hull your wheat the same as you would for hulled barley". Based on this, and the conceit of a French cook, we chose to use hulled barley instead of wheat Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:51:02 -0500 From: "Gedney, Jeffrey" Subject: RE: SC - Frumenty Recipes Here is a link to a recipe I used for a feast I did recently. It had a very simple and tasty frumente, almost idiot proof ( I am not just any idiot!). http://www2.iconn.net/gedney/Recipes/frumente.htm You may want to adjust the saffron amount. I think that a little more would improve the color. ( use your judgement. the Saffron might change the lightly sweet flavor of this one. The original recipe is from a fourteenth century manuscript, as published by Butler and Heiatt in "an Ordinance of Pottage". brandu Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:36:40 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty Recipes Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: > you cook the barley in the milk, I believe (deleted the orignian message, > sorry!) > stir the raw eggs into the cooled cooked barley, bag it up. the heating > process will cook the eggs and you wont get scrambled eggs. > --AM Presumably the vegetable broth is mixed with the milk before cooking. Do we need to emphasize that the cooked barley should be cooled until _cold_ before the raw egg is stirred in? We don't want anything that might be in those eggs to have a chance to incubate for more than an hour, maximum. I'm sure most of us realize this, but we prolly ought not to take it for granted. Adamantius, troublemaker par excellence Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:11:45 -0800 From: Anne-Marie Rousseau Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty Recipes hi all from Anne-Marie re: cootie control in cooked barley with raw eggs... Didn't I mentiion that the barley is refrigerated the whole time until its cooked? Barley on its own, once cooked makes one of the best bacterial growth mediums there is. Add raw eggs, and its asking for trouble! Fortunately the bags fit nicely in a cooler. - --AM Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:52:12 -0600 From: LYN M PARKINSON Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food--barley frumenty Earlier this week, I posted Anne-Marie for the documentation of barley frumenty, and yesterday I was looking through Mistress Elizabeth's Chiquart, and found 3 recipes, in the invalid section: #75, 77, 78, that are for barley, semolina and oatmeal. They certainly sound like frumenty to me. I can't post them right now without crashing the computer: that file is too large, but if anyone is looking at the on-line copy in Duke Sir Cariadoc's web site, or has a file, try these and see if you think they are frumenty. I'd like to know other opinions. Allison allilyn at juno.com, Barony Marche of the Debatable Lands, Pittsburgh, PA Kingdom of Aethelmearc Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 10:17:46 EST From: Gerekr at aol.com Subject: SC - Frumenty using barley? Every period recipe I can find at the moment (2 15th, Miscellany, etc.) says wheat for Frumenty. But I -think- I've seen one slightly vague reference to barley here, and my lord has an ancient recipe in his files that calls for barley (ancient means he copied it from a source that left with a former girlfriend, 8-)). Can anyone quote me a period reference for barley, please? Chimene & Gerek Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:39:34 -0600 From: "Decker, Terry D." Subject: RE: SC - Frumenty using barley? > Every period recipe I can find at the moment (2 15th, Miscellany, etc.) > says wheat for Frumenty. > > But I -think- I've seen one slightly vague reference to barley here, and > my lord has an ancient recipe in his files that calls for barley (ancient > means he copied it from a source that left with a former girlfriend, > 8-)). Can anyone quote me a period reference for barley, please? > > Chimene & Gerek Barley Polenta (Pliny, Naturalis Historia, 18, 73, as taken from Giacosa, A Taste of Ancient Rome) Vicenis hordei libris ternas seminis lini et coriandri selibram salisque acetabulum. For each 20 librae of barley, 3 librae of linseeds and 1/2 libra of coriander, in addition to an acetabulum of salt. Serves 4. 12 oz. ground barley 3 Tbs. linseeds 2 tsp. coriander sufficient salt Boil 1 quart of water, gradually add the ingredients, and leave to cook for approximately 1 hour. Add more boiling water if the barley consumes too much. A more flavorful polenta can be obtained by cooking the barley in meat stock or vegetable broth instead of water. Frumenty and polenta both mean cooked grain. Cooked grains are common from Antiquity to the Present. I suspect the reason that wheat is the common grain in frumenty is that wheat has the lowest yield per acre of any of the cereals and is therefore the most expensive of grains, making it the most appropriate for a noble's table. Bear Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 16:56:18 EST From: Gerekr at aol.com Subject: SC - Frumenty - ANOTHER question! We got 4 versions of (wheat) frumenty thru cooking night successfully, and a decision made for the 12N course ... except for the philosophical debate that arose over whether wheat berries, cracked wheat or bulgur would have been a closer texture match to what period diners would have gotten/expected. That is, chewey whole grain kernels in sauce, or flavored mush. The issue came up partly because of all the hulling and breaking instructions in almost all the recipes. I was assuming that those are there because whole-grains got stored in a less-refined state than the wheat berries you can get at the grocery store... that there actually - -were- hulls to break up and remove (comments in some recipes about "doing away the chaff" (sic)). Personally I (Chimene) prefer the chewier texture of even completely cooked wheat berries (and kept derisively referring to the cracked wheat result as "peasant pap", 8-0!), but I'm the beneficiary of 20thC dentistry. Others (Gerek) preferred the mush form. We prepared 4 versions, 3 with wheat berries, and one with cracked wheat, which may have turned out mushier than if we'd used "bulgur" -- cracked wheat and bulgur -are- two different things, yes? We're assuming bulgur is to cracked wheat sort of like steel-cut oats oatmeal is to rolled oats oatmeal, and are going to check by doing a set for next meeting. And someone raised the side issue that the common commercial wheat berries that we used were probably a hard wheat, where most of the period European stuff was a soft variety. Whether this is a distinction we can expect to impose on hotel cooks (Double Tree) may make this a moot point, but it was raised. Although in -this- town, we probably have a reasonably good chance of their finding it if they look for it, at least. So, there's another couple of questions! Who woulda thunk it! Thanks, & looking forward to erudition, enlightenment, etc., 8-), Chimene & Gerek Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:18:41 -0500 From: Christine A Seelye-King Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty - ANOTHER question! >We prepared 4 versions, 3 with wheat berries, and one with cracked wheat, >which may have turned out mushier than if we'd used "bulgur" -- cracked >wheat and bulgur -are- two different things, yes? We're assuming bulgur >is to cracked wheat sort of like steel-cut oats oatmeal is to rolled oats >oatmeal, and are going to check by doing a set for next meeting. To my knowledge, Cracked Wheat and Bulgar Wheat are used interchangeably. No doubt someone else will come up with the reason there are two names, but I think in common (modern) use, they are the same. Mistress Christianna MacGrain Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 06:15:34 -0600 From: "Decker, Terry D." Subject: RE: SC - Frumenty - yet one nore question! Having finally found the yellowing notes, we have an adaptation of a recipe for frumenty from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), which places it out of period. Since the original recipe is not referenced, I have no idea how close this matches the original. Bear Furmenty 1 cup whole grain wheat berries 4 cups water 1 1/2 cup light cream 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon mace 1 3" cinnamon stick 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 egg yolks Rinse wheat to remove chaff. Now you can do all of these steps in a double boiler, or you can be immensely careful not to let it burn. Boil water. Add wheat, remove from heat, cover and let sit for 8 hours. Reboil the water and simmer for 1/2 hour. Drain off excess water. Add cream, salt and spices. Simmer until most of the cream has been absorbed, stirring frequently. Just before serving, beat sugar and egg yolks together. Stir into the frumenty and let cook for about 5 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick. Serve. I did this dish once for a feast about 14 years ago with reasonable results. I used crock pots to cook and hold it. As it thickens, the dish becomes more prone to burning and it should not be held too long for that reason. The people who ate it at the feast referred to it as "frog's eggs". The top of the dish can be dusted with additional brown sugar or cinnamon sugar, if you choose. Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 11:37:29 -0500 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: RE: SC - Frumenty - yet one nore question! >Having finally found the yellowing notes, we have an adaptation of a recipe >for frumenty from Robert May's The Accomplisht Cook (1660), which places it >out of period. Since the original recipe is not referenced, I have no idea >how close this matches the original. > >Bear The adaptation you give came from Dining With William Shakespeare, by Madge Lorwin, p. 203. Here is the cited original from May: "To Make Furmenty Take wheat and wet it, then beat it in a sack with the wash-beetle, being finely hulled and cleaned from the dust and hulls, boil it over night, and let it soak on a soft fire all night; then next morning take as much as will serve the turn, put it in a pipkin, pan or skillet, and put it a boiling in cream or milk, with mace, salt, whole cinamon, and saffron, or yolkes of eggs, boil it thick and serve it in a clean scowred dish, scrape on sugar, and trim the dish." Cindy Renfrow renfrow at skylands.net Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 10:41:42 -0600 From: "Sharon R. Saroff" Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty - yet one nore question! >And it came to pass on 16 Mar 99,, that THLRenata at aol.com wrote: > >> Thanks, Bear! I was wondering, after all the list's frumenty >> (non-sweetened) talk, if I was just reading too many trashy historical >> novels. ;) >> >> Renata > >There is a Spanish recipe for wheat which is boiled in water, then >cooked with almond milk, and served topped with sugar and >cinnamon. Sounds like sweet frumenty to me. > >Lady Brighid ni Chiarain I know of a Tu B'Shvat recipe called Prehito (Turkish Wheat pudding) that is made from bulghur, sugar, honey, cinnamon and chopped walnuts. It sounds similar to frumenty to me. Sindara Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:33:00 EST From: Gerekr at aol.com Subject: Re: RE: SC - Frumenty - yet one nore question! When we were doing our research, I charted ingredients on 10 frumenty recipes from English sources from ca. 1381 thru 2-15th. Half of them (5) included sugar. >From the Misc, the Ancient cookery appended to FC, the recipe on p. 81 >From the Misc, the Noble Boke, the recipe on p. 100 >From my own EETS 2-15th, the recipes on pp. 17, 70 & 105 (that's 75% of >the recipes in that source) I was expecting the sweetened recipes, had never run across an unsweetened one particularly. Are these early enough? No particular connection to Christmas in these sources, however. Chimene Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:39:03 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty - yet one nore question! Gerekr at aol.com wrote: > When we were doing our research, I charted ingredients on 10 frumenty > recipes from English sources from ca. 1381 thru 2-15th. Half of them (5) > included sugar. > > >From the Misc, the Ancient cookery appended to FC, the recipe on p. 81 > >From the Misc, the Noble Boke, the recipe on p. 100 > >From my own EETS 2-15th, the recipes on pp. 17, 70 & 105 (that's 75% of > the recipes in that source) > > I was expecting the sweetened recipes, had never run across an > unsweetened one particularly. Are these early enough? No particular > connection to Christmas in these sources, however. Bear in mind, of course, that because a recipe calls for the addition of some sugar to a dish doesn't necessarily mean the final product is what we'd call sweet. Many people add a bit of sugar to marinara sauce but don't eat linguine for dessert. > And thanks to Bear for the info on bulgur and hard/soft wheat. Did > anyone else have more opinions or evidence on the question of whole wheat > berries vs physically-smashed-in-some-form ones being what period > upper-class diners would expect? The fourteenth-and-fifteenth century recipes seem pretty straightforward: you pound and winnow the wheat, which indicates pretty clearly it is whole, you cook it until the grains or berries burst and the dish is thick (which will really become dramatically so after the grains have burst their starch out). What you'll end up with is a thick puddingy porridge a bit like Chinese jook or congee (depending on dialect), only thicker and with bits of wheat bran mixed in, so it will have more "character" than a porridge made from polished rice. If you use whole wheat berries, and they remain whole in the finished dish, however, I'd think it means you used too little liquid to start with and didn't cook it long enough. Adamantius Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 20:45:23 -0500 From: Helen Subject: Re: SC - frumente serving question Thanks, a ratio like that will really help me. See below: Original: 1. To make frumente. Tak clene whete & braye yt wel in a morter tyl [th]e holes gon of; se[th]e it til it breste in water. Nym it vp & lat it cole. Tak good bro[th] & swete mylk of kyn or of almand & tempere it [th]erwith. Nym yelkys of eyren rawe & saffroun & cast [th]erto; salt it; lat it naugt boyle after [th]e eyren ben cast [th]erinne. Messe it forth with venesoun or with fat motoun fresch. 1. To make frumente. Take clean wheat and bray it well in a mortar until the hulls gone off; seethe it til it burst in water. Take it up and let it cool. Take good broth and sweet cow's milk or almond milk and temper it therewith. Take raw yolks of eggs and saffron and cast thereto; salt it; let it not boil after the eggs are added. Serve it forth with venison or with fat, fresh mutton. Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 13:44:07 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Boar Recipe cclark at vicon.net wrote: > Adamantius wrote: > >By hunters and, by extension, cooks. Venison can be used to refer to > >just about any quadruped game animal with red meat, as far as I know. If > >you look at various recipes you'll see references to "venison of deer or > >of boar". > So does this mean that one could braise one's boar meat and then serve it > with frumenty? Probably. Frumenty is also documented as having been served with mutton and with porpoise, after all. I suspect that if there was such a hard-and-fast tradition as serving it with venison, it would be subject to local interpretations of exactly what venison was. This would, of course, be over and above the recipes that specify boar, such as bourbelier, etc. Adamantius Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:50:35 -0600 From: "Decker, Terry D." Subject: RE: SC - Hard versus soft wheat berries for frumenty? > Does anyone have any experience or suggestions regarding using hard > wheat or soft wheat berries for frumenty (versus cracked wheat, bulgur > wheat, or barley)? > > Seumas The decision of which to use depends larely on how much time you have and the texture of the dish you desire. Most of the recipes I'm familiar with use grain meal (cracked). I do have one which uses whole berries cooked in cream, sugar and spices. Tasty, but it takes a long time to cook. Whole grains will take longer to prepare than grain meal and usually require soaking overnight to soften them. There are four grades of cracked wheat based on the fineness of the meal (I would need to find my notes on this to give you the precise grades). Most readily available cracked grains are of average fineness. Bulgur wheat is cracked wheat which has been pre-cooked. Bulgur wheat absorbs water quickly and cooks faster than cracked wheat. Most grain meals will cook up in about 30 minutes. Toasted grains taste better (to me, at least) than untoasted. Millet is also fun to prepare this way. Bear Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 16:13:41 -0600 From: "Decker, Terry D." Subject: RE: SC - Hard versus soft wheat berries for frumenty? > But back to topic. Generally, I think the parts of Europe where we find > extant period furmenty recipes is pretty consistent with growing the > softer strains of wheat. It seems pretty widely agreed, AFAIK, that the > places where such foods as higher-gluten bread flours, as well as > semi-automated mills, proliferated in period, were the places where > harder wheats were grown. > > One _might_ argue that the very fact that this wheat is being used to > make frumenty argues that it is unsuitable for bread. Of course, that > argument backfires if we wonder whether it is not being milled into > flour because of its hardness. But what the hey. > > Adamantius Bread requires a finer meal than frumenty. It also takes more time. And it requires an oven of some type. If the mill could not turn out a fine enough flour, then frumenty makes sense. It also makes sense to use the fine meal from a bolting for bread and the coarse meal for frumenty. Harder wheat turns out more fine meal suitable for bread, so I have no doubt bread was more common in the areas which raised harder wheats. Since grain is easy to cook and porridges and gruels seem to be common in period, the fact that there are recipes for cooked wheat would suggest that these are dishes less commonly prepared. Bear Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:38:58 EST From: ChannonM at aol.com Subject: SC - Re: Wheat Berries << Does anyone have any experience or suggestions regarding using hard wheat or soft wheat berries for frumenty (versus cracked wheat, bulgur wheat, or barley)? The question was raised last year by Chimene (but I wasn't here then), but I couldn't find an answer to it in Stefan's Florilegium (yes, I actually checked first, thus depriving Stefan of the opportunity to suggest....) Seumas >> I have cooked barley and wheat berries together in a frumenty. The wheat needs to be soaked overnight to soften. The difference between hard and soft berries did not seem to be significant in the end result. I believe it "MAY" be a difference in when or where they are grown. Something about one grown in Alberta or Saskatchewan the other in Ontario????? This could be way off, but that's my immediate recollection. I'm working on the recipe for Clancy Day incorporating the above. I'll post it when it's ready. Hauviette Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:07:24 EST From: ChannonM at aol.com Subject: SC - Re:Frumenty Hi everyone, I contacted my apprentice sister (Ailknn Olafsdotter) who has made frumenty using barley and wheat berries and here is her recipes both for a small size and for feast size. Mind you she had lots left over, so I'd say this would stretch to about 100 gentles. Personally, I would increase the water almost by half again. I like my frumenty fairly wet. In addition, I would use pot barley vs pearl. Takes longer to cook but, works well within the period scope of things. Hope this helps the gentle looking for such recipes, Hauviette Wheat berry and Barley Frumenty 2 GRAIN FRUMENTEY serves 5 serves 75 Wheatberries 1/2 C. 8 C. (about 3.5 lbs) Pearled barley 1/2 C. 8 C. (4 lbs.) Water, hot from tap 2 1/2 C. 40+ C. Powdered Veg. Broth 1T. 1 1/2 C. (Frontier) Salt 1 t+ 2 T+ Browned Onion-garlic Mixture Onions 1 lg. (1/2 lb) 8 lbs Garlic 2 cloves 1 1/2 lg. bulbs oil 1 T. 1 T. per 4C onions being sauteed Butter 1 T. as oil sugar pinch pinch per batch sauteeing Cut onions in 1/4 and peel. Slice in food processor. In 4 C. batches place in large frypan with 1T. oil and 1 T. butter. Cover and cook over med. heat for 10 to 15 min. to soften. uncover and toss with about 1/2 t. sugar, turn up the heat and brown the onions, stirring constantly or it will burn. Spread out in a baking dish to cool and proceed with the next batch. When all onions are browned, mince the garlic.(food processor works well) and brown lightly in a little oil. Add garlic to all the onions and mix well. When all is cool package in Ziploc bags and freeze until feast day. To make Frumentey for 5 I used a Crock-Pot. Soak wheatberries in 3 C, water overnight, drain. Place wheatberries, barley, water, Veg. powder, onion-garlic mixture and salt in the Crock-pot. Cook on Hi for 2 hrs and turn to low for 2 more. Check if there is enough water after about 3 hr COOKING FOR A FEAST. Day before the feast - Soak the wheatberries in 3 C. water per cup of berries Day of the feast - 6 hours before feast Drain wheatberries and place in an 18 Qt. electric roaster with 16C. hot tap water and 3/4 C powdered Veg. broth. Cook at 300 for 2 hrs. Then add barley, 16 more cups hot tap water , 3/4 C. Powdered Veg. broth, the thawed onion-garlic mixture and salt. Cook 2 hrs at 300. Stir occasionally and add more water if necessary. Adjust for salt. Turn temp down to 200 when nearly done and hold until feast is served NOTES: 1 lb pearl barley = 2 cups 1 cup barley yields 3 1/2 cups cooked 1 lb. wheatberries = 2 1/3 Cups 1 cup wheatberries yields 2 2/3 cups cooked The 18 Qt electric roaster was full with one recipe for 75. I served it right from the roaster on a buffet table to keep it warm Looks like this copied OK but you will have to read carefullY because the spacing got all messed up. Annette Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 18:59:09 -0400 From: Christine A Seelye-King Subject: Re: SC - Frumenty One of the best frumenties I have ever made was with mixed grains, oats, wheat, buckwheat, & rye, IIRC, and the texture was very good. The key is to cook the grains in a suitably seasoned stock, which imparts plenty of flavor to the grains as they are cooked. This eliminates the bland porridge syndrome nicely. I think of frumenty as being the porridge that gets left on the hearth over night, so my vision of it would be pretty well cooked. My taste would be for some of the texture to remain. Christianna From: rcmann4 at earthlink.net To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 09:22:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Re: A Small Known World After All (Frumenty Comment) On 12 May 01,, Elise Fleming wrote: > What about an overnight cooking? In a crockpot to minimize sticking > to the pot? Do we know whether cooks cooked up the grains that > morning, or might it have been one of those things put on the side > of the fire for a long, slow cooking? > > Alys Katharine Nola has a recipe for boiled wheat, which I think is a frumenty equivalent. The cooking starts the night before. Whole wheat berries (with the outer hull removed) are washed, then boiled until the grains burst. The cooked wheat is then removed from the fire and allowed to sit over night in a covered dish. In the morning, it is put into a fresh pot and cooked again, then almond milk is added to the mixture. I assume that the overnight rest would allow the wheat to absorb more moisture. Long, slow cooking with a grain dish might be difficult to achieve without scorching. There's no indication how long the second cooking lasts -- it may be only to reheat the wheat. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:53:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Ruth Frey To: Subject: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty. > What about an overnight cooking? In a crockpot to minimize sticking > to the pot? Do we know whether cooks cooked up the grains that > morning, or might it have been one of those things put on the side > of the fire for a long, slow cooking? Actually, some of the recipes do mention pulling the wheat off the fire and letting it sit for a while before adding the milk and re-cooking it. I found that does make a difference; I got a good redaction down that worked OK done "straight", but for my tournament entry, I cooked the wheat early in the morning (so I wouldn't have the 2-hour prep time at the event), let it sit in the fridge at the site for about 6 hours, then added the milk and did the final cooking just before the tournament. The texture was noticably smoother and creamier, so sitting really is a Good Thing for this recipe (though not necessary for an edible result). Another thing that helped was trying another variety of wheat; living in prime wheat-growing territory means I can actually pick and choose. I was working with 2 varieties, "hard red" and "soft white." Preliminary tests didn't show a whole lot of difference between the two -- both cooked to edibility in 45 minutes with 3 cups of water, with no real difference in taste or texture. However, with the longer cooking times needed to get a nice, soft frumenty texture, the soft white cooked considerably faster and absorbed much more water than the hard red. So, it pays to experiment. -- Ruth Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:57:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Ruth Frey To: Subject: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty. Lady Brighid wrote: > Nola has a recipe for boiled wheat, which I think is a frumenty > equivalent. The cooking starts the night before. Whole wheat > berries (with the outer hull removed) are washed, then boiled until > the grains burst. The cooked wheat is then removed from the fire > and allowed to sit over night in a covered dish. In the morning, it is > put into a fresh pot and cooked again, then almond milk is added > to the mixture. > > I assume that the overnight rest would allow the wheat to absorb > more moisture. Long, slow cooking with a grain dish might be > difficult to achieve without scorching. There's no indication how > long the second cooking lasts -- it may be only to reheat the wheat. See my above post -- the extra "sitting" time *does* increase water absorption, and improves the texture. So that's right on. For my cow's milk recipe, the second cooking is necessary to thicken the mixture and get the right texture (again, as mentioned in the historical recipes). -- Ruth From: grizly at mindspring.com Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 23:15:07 -0400 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty. > Lady Brighid wrote: <>> I assume that the overnight rest would allow the wheat to absorb > more moisture. Long, slow cooking with a grain dish might be > difficult to achieve without scorching. There's no indication how > long the second cooking lasts -- it may be only to reheat the wheat. See my above post -- the extra "sitting" time *does* increase water absorption, and improves the texture. So that's right on. For my cow's milk recipe, the second cooking is necessary to thicken the mixture and get the right texture (again, as mentioned in the historical recipes). -- Ruth > > > > you'll probably find that part of the textural benfit is from the gelatinization of the starches due to long sit times in hot/warm moist environs. Once the berries burst, and let the starches into the mix, the heat and moisture will basically dissolve or loosen the strands. Gives a smoother and creamier texture. Same concept in premise occurs when you malt and mash grains for brewing. The different strains and varieties will have different levels of the enzymes needed to do the gematinizing . . . different temps and different hold times for each to get same effect. ruth found that with the hard and soft varieties. My wondering is which would have been more common among which people's/times . . . harder or softer wheats. My guess is that it would be regional and seasonal. and that many of today's grains are so engineered and hybridized that they lose any resemblance to 13th century Southern english wheat. Did your research uncover anything on the available varieties, Ruth? pacem et bonum, niccolo difrancesco Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:09:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Ruth Frey To: Subject: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty recipe, finally! (Was: Congrats) Anyway the recipe I came up with is: 1 c. wheat berries 3 - 4 c. water 1 c. whole milk 1 1/2 - 2 tsp sugar 1/8 tsp. salt, or to taste pinch saffron, to taste. Pick over and rinse the wheat, then bring wheat and water to a boil; reduce heat to medium, and simmer, covered, for approx. 1 1/2 - 2 hours, depending on the type of wheat used. Check occasionally, and add more water as needed. When the wheat kernels have broken open and are soft, they can be removed from the heat and allowd to sit, to improve the texture (as noted in previous posts), or you can continue directly with fairly good results. Add the milk to the wheat, bring to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thickened (about 20 min.) -- towards the end, you will probably need to be stirring the stuff constantly, to keep it from burning. At the end of cooking, stir in the sugar, salt, and saffron. I've found a brief "sit" before serving is beneficial here, too, as it allows the color and flavor to be gently extracted from the saffron. After the frumenty has sat and cooled for a few minutes, stir to distribute the saffron, and serve warm (though, when our tournament ran overtime on Sunday, it ended up being served rather lukewarm, and people still liked it). Notes on ingredients: Wheat: I used a "soft white" wheat, which cooks more quickly than the "hard red" that was my other option. The white wheat cooked to tenderness in about 1 1/2 hours, and absorbed a prodigous amount of water (I ended up adding several cups' worth above and beyond the 4 cups I started out with). As noted in other posts, it turns out that the soft wheat is probably closer to Period wheat than the hard, another bonus. I went for whole wheat berries rather than the cracked wheat often used in book redactions; I believe the beating of the wheat in a mortar listed in all the extant recipes refers only to the removal of hulls, since there is no way that cracked grain can "break" or "burst" when it's sufficiently cooked (another universal feature of the recipes). Milk: I used grocery-store whole milk for a creamy, but not too-creamy texture. Period milk would likely have had more cream in it, though one recipe that I didn't use as a source (in _The Medieval Kitchen_, can't recall the authors at the moment) cautions one to remove a lot of the cream from the milk used, to avoid curdling of the frumenty. So the actual type of milk used historically is open to debate. Sugar: For test redactions, I used commercial white sugar; for the final recipe, I used unrefined cane sugar, of the type sold in solid cones at Mexican groceries. The cane sugar has a nice "brown sugar" flavor, and is less agressively sweet than white sugar (I used 2 tsp. of cane sugar to get the same effect as 1 1/2 tsp. white sugar). I figured this would be closest to the sugar that would have been used in Period; refined white sugar was available, but expensive, and often cooks had to do the refining themselves. White sugar was mostly prized for its color and was usually used as a topping to show it off. I figured that since the color of the sugar wouldn't be seen against the colors of the wheat and saffron, there was no reason to use the really good stuff. Salt: For test preps, I used regular table salt; for the final version, I used "fleur de sel" sea salt, supposedly one of the finest hand-harvested grades to come out of Brittany (assuming my supplier is above-board). No noticeable difference in the finished product, though apparently the snob value impressed the judges. :) Admittedly, fleur de sel is such lovely white stuff, it probably would have been used as table salt, while a less-refined grade would have been used in the recipe itself, where appearance would be unimportant. Saffron: I used genuine Spanish saffron, just enough to give the dish a faint saffron color and flavor (mostly to prove the stuff was in there); I have no idea how much would have been added in Period. It might have been based on how much saffron one had, how much one wanted to impress guests, what other food was being served, etc. Some recipes also add egg yolks to thicken the dish at the end; since that can affect the "keeping" time of the dish negatively, and since I thought the stuff might have to sit a while before it was eaten, I skipped that ingredient. Also, some recipes call for boiling water or broth to be added at the time of serving (possibly to thin out the frumenty a little?), but the extant recipes are not clear if the broth/water is to be added to the frumenty, the accompanying meat, or both. Also, the step is not listed in all the recipes. Since I wasn't sure, I skipped it. Sadly, I didn't have the time or money to cook up roast beef or meat to go with this, but at our potluck feast, the frumenty went quite nicely with the roasted chicken someone else brought. References: Heiatt, Constance, _An Ordnance of Pottage_, as cited on the godecookery.com website. (One original source recipe, for frumenty and porpoise in Lent). Heiatt, Constance, et al., _Pleyn Delit_ (One original source recipe, that helpfully mentions that either cow's milk *or* almond milk is acceptable, thus bridging the 2 types of recipes). Renfrow, Cindy, _Take a Thousand Eggs or More, vol. 2_ (4 original source recipes -- 2 for frumenty with porpoise, 2 for frumenty with venison -- from 2 different manuscripts.) Depending on how you count, 4 or 6 original sources. Sorry the citations are so brief -- I don't have the books here at work with me, and only remember the titles and authors at the moment (though I'm sure lots of folks here are familiar with them). And that's the winning recipe. Simple, rather time- intensive, but tasty. :) -- Ruth Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 18:25:33 -0500 From: Robin Carroll-Mann Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] A Frumenty Question To: Cooks within the SCA Susan Fox wrote: > You seem to have asked the same question in 1999, looking for > something earlier than Robert May "The Accomplish'd Cook" c. 1660. > Lady Brighid ni Chiarain answered that there was a Spanish recipe with > sugar and cinnamon but did not cite it directly. > > Selene C. There are several boiled grain dishes that are topped with sugar and cinnamon, but as they are 16th c., and she asked for 14th c. recipes... Frumenty is usually of porridge-like consistency. If you don't mind something smoother, there's a recipe in The Anonymous Venetian (14th/15 c. Italian). It's for "Amidono of Starch", made with wheat starch, sugar, almond milk, cloves, and pine nuts. Here's a link to Mistress Helewyse's translation: http://www.geocities.com/helewyse/libro.html#I.%20Amidono%20of If 15th c. will do, there's a sweetened frumenty recipe in the Liber Cure Cocorum. Here are the relevant lines, at the end of the recipe: "With sugur candy, þou may hit dowce, If hit be served in grete lordys howce. Take black sugur for mener menne; Be ware þer with, for hit wylle brenne The full recipe (and the rest of the cookbook) is on Thomas Gloning's website: http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/lcc3.htm -- Brighid ni Chiarain Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 21:52:13 -0500 From: Johnna Holloway Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] A Frumenty Question To: Cooks within the SCA SilverR0se at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone know of a sweetened frumenty recipe from before 1600? I found one > for 1653 but I need one from the 14th century, if such exists. The > early recipes I've seen call for milk, eggs and saffron but no sugar. > > Renata Ancient Cookery which is in the Warner edition of the Antiquitates Culinariae (1791) includes Furmentee Take qwete[wheat] ftreyned, that is for to fay broften (bburft), and alay hit with godefwete mylk, and boyle hit, and ftere hit well, and put therto fugre; and colour hit with faffron; and for a lorde put no brothe therto, but put therto a few zolkes of eyren beten, and ftere hit wel that hit quayle noght (stir it well that it does not curdle); and when it is fothen ferve hit forthe. 406 page 81 Prospect Books facsimile 1981. The recipes are dated circa 1425. The manuscript is the Arundel 334. Most sources are wrong and number it as AR 344. If one doesn't have Warner, one can find the recipes in the 1790 edition of the Household Ordinances. That was published as a microfilm in 1975. Johnnae Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 22:00:19 -0500 From: Johnna Holloway Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] A Frumenty Question To: Cooks within the SCA Another version that includes sugar may be found in the Sloane Manuscript 1986. 7. Frumenty Take wheat, and pick it fair ... snipped With sugar candy , you may sweeten it, If it is served in [a] great lord's house. Take black sugar for meaner men; Beware therewith, for it will burn. http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/lcc/parallel.html#r7 This is from the parallel translation of the Liber cure Cocorum. It's the work of our own Cindy Renfrow. The dating of the manuscript is 1440. Johnnae Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 08:44:03 -0700 From: "Sue Clemenger" Subject: [Sca-cooks] Sweet frumenty recipes... To: "Cooks within the SCA" Funny how life works, sometimes....There I was, sitting at my kitchen table, looking through my brand-new copies of _Take a Thousand Eggs_ (which I got as a late Holiday present from a dear friend), looking for Lenten ideas, and what do I find in the fish section of volume two but recipes for sweet frumenty! Both examples, interestingly, occur in the context of being served with porpoise. The first comes from Harleian MS 4016, and the second, from Harlein MS 279, and they are found on pages 400-401 in the second volume of Cindy's books. The first recipe has you make an almond milk with water, which you combine with cleaned and partially-cooked wheat. Later, you add sugar, saffron and salt, and serve it with porpoise that has been prepared as one would salmon, and boiled in fair water. The second recipe is virtually identical, lacking only the salt. It would be interesting, I think, to go through the various sources in which frumenty and similar grain dishes appear, and see if the seasonings shift with the type of meat that the grain is to accompany. Without, unfortunately, knowing anything extensive about humoral theory, I'd wonder if the different seasonings had anything to do with balancing the meat, since porpoise (which they considered a fish) would have had different humoral qualities than venison, which is what I'd normally associate frumenty with. The other frumenties I've seen all seem to have had pepper in them, and egg yolks (although the lack of egg in the porpoise recipes could be attributed to their use in Lent). I'm going to add the recipes to my Lenten options, although I think I'll serve it with salmon instead! Does anyone know what kind of wheat would be most appropriate? A hard winter wheat? something softer? --Maire, off to go get ready for work.... Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 11:59:00 -0700 (PDT) From: AmberRaven Subject: [Sca-cooks] ANCIENT AND PERIOD RECIPES LINK To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org, amberraven Thompson For a tried and tested recipe for frumenty complete with modern redactions you may like to take a look at: http://www.history.uk.com/recipes/index.php?archive=8 www.history.uk.com ====== Recipes for frumenty are found in just about every medieval European cookbook, dating back to 1300. Normally the frumenty recipes call for wheat, but other grains such as oats were also used (alone or in combination). Most commonly in medieval menus, frumenty was served with venison. I have Cariadoc's recipe for frumenty on the website at: http://www.medievalcookery.com/recipes/frumenty.shtm If you'd like other examples of the medieval source recipes, let me know and I'll dig them up. - Doc Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 15:28:10 -0500 From: "Terry Decker" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] ANCIENT AND PERIOD RECIPES LINK To: "Cooks within the SCA" If I might be so bold, the modern adaptations of frumenty are actually wheat polenta (the word first being used in English around 1000 CE). Frumenty is made from whole grain, while polenta is made from crushed grain or meal. The use of bulgar or cracked wheat is a cheat to expedite the cooking and does not produce the "frogs egg" effect of frumenty. Frumenty mostly refers to whole, hulled wheat grains. Polenta initially was applied to barley, both whole and crushed, but was being commonly used to describe any boiled grain meal by the time of Apicius. Porridge primarily referred to a dish of oatmeal, but was also used to describe other cooked grain meals. I suspect the definitions became more generalized over time. It might be interesting to compare the various recipes and word usages over time. Bear Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 00:15:33 -0400 From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: Cooks within the SCA From: "Antonia Calvo" <<< I've made milk-and-wheat frumenty at a feast, but it's kind of a pain... if you don't stir it constantly, it catches and burns. But now, I'm wondering if you can cook that in the oven...? After all, it works with rice. >>> With perhaps some sacrifice to authenticity, for heavy production purposes, equal parts Wheatena (or other equivalent whole wheat cereal such as fine bulgur) and Cream of Wheat are your friends. They cook quickly and can even finish cooking off the flame in their own residual heat in a large pot. You can then whisk the bejabbers out of it, add milk, yolks, or whatever. The end result is, if not totally indistinguishable from the real, slow-cooked article, sure ain't Minute Rice... Adamantius Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 00:23:46 -0500 From: "Terry Decker" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: "Cooks within the SCA" If the recipe under discussion is the one I'm thinking of, the frumenty is wheat berries cooked in milk or cream. It has a decidedly different texture from frumenties made with meal or farina. Bear <<< With perhaps some sacrifice to authenticity, for heavy production purposes, equal parts Wheatena (or other equivalent whole wheat cereal such as fine bulgur) and Cream of Wheat are your friends. They cook quickly and can even finish cooking off the flame in their own residual heat in a large pot. You can then whisk the bejabbers out of it, add milk, yolks, or whatever. The end result is, if not totally indistinguidhable from the real, slow-cooked article, sure ain't Minute Rice... Adamantius >>> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 02:20:45 -0400 From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: Cooks within the SCA On Aug 22, 2008, at 1:23 AM, Terry Decker wrote: <<< If the recipe under discussion is the one I'm thinking of, the frumenty is wheat berries cooked in milk or cream. It has a decidedly different texture from frumenties made with meal or farina. >>> Most of the recipes I've seen involve the grains being cooked in water until they burst and release their starch; then it's generally cooked further, and very slowly, with milk, then eggs and things like saffron are added near the end of the process. Perhaps it's a matter of interpretation, but if done right, there's not a lot of easily discernible wheat berry structure left by the time you're done. Using whole wheat berries will leave more fibrous berry structure in the mass, and there is a difference between that process and using coarsely-ground grain, but the difference is not huge, and since using coarse-ground grain is faster, less likely to burn, and also more appealing to many people (in my own experience, anyway), it's not a bad option when cooking for 400 people. If I were doing a small quantity and authenticity were my main priority, rather than one of many, I'd use whole wheat berries. Adamantius Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 16:26:20 -0700 From: Lilinah Subject: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty To: sca-cooks@ansteorra.org I've only made frumenty once, at my very first feast. I cooked the wheat first, until it burst. Then i stirred in the eggs, saffron, and milk. Original: To make frumente Take clene whete & braye yt wel in a morter tyl the holes gon of; sethe it til it breste in water. Nym it vp & lat it cole. Tak good broth & swete mylk of kyn or of almand & tempere it therwith. Nym 3elkys of eyren rawe & saffroun & cast therto; salt it; let it nau3t boyle after the eyren ben cast therinne. Messe it forth with venesoun or with fat motoun fresch. from: Forme of Cury, late 14th century My paraphrase: To make frumenty Take clean wheat & bray it well in a mortar till the hulls come off. Seethe it till it bursts in water. Take it up & let it cool. Take good broth & sweet milk of cow or of almond & temper it therewith. Take yolks of raw eggs & saffron & cast thereto; salt it; let it not boil after the eggs [have] been cast therein. Mess it forth with venison or with fat fresh mutton. What We Did: - We cooked the wheat in water in several rice cookers, dumping each potfull into a large pan when done. - While the wheat was cooking, we soaked the saffron in the vegetable broth and cow's milk. - When the wheat was all cooked, we beat the eggs and stirred them into a little broth in a separate bowl. - Then we added the major portion of broth, milk, and saffron to the pot of cooked wheat. No, it wasn't really cool, as the recipes directs, but it wasn't completely hot, either. - We brought it to a simmer, not a boil, on medium heat, stirring, from time to time until bubbles just began to form around the edge of the pot. - As soon as that happened we turned the heat down to low. - Then we tempered the eggs with some of the hot liquid in the pot - i do this by adding just a little hot liquid at a time, so the eggs don't "cook"/curdle, and until they are quite warm. - Then we slowly poured the tempered eggs into the wheat, stirring constantly. - We continued cooking, stirring constantly, until the liquid and eggs were absorbed. - Because the broth was salted, we didn't add salt, but i tasted it when it was nearly done, to see if it needed salt - i don't recall if it did... but if it does, it's good to add the salt before it gets too thick, so it can be evenly distributed. - When it was thick, we took it off the stove, set it on a heat-proof counter with a lid on. Didn't burn it. But didn't serve it with venison or fresh mutton, either. It was served with roast pork legs with three sauces, salat, and two vegetable dishes. This way it was quite pleasantly creamy and soft, and fairly tasty for frumenty (not the tastiest dish, IMO). -- Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM) the persona formerly known as Anahita Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 06:38:12 -0500 From: "Terry Decker" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Frog's eggs? To: "Cooks within the SCA" ====== I've made milk-and-wheat frumenty at a feast, but it's kind of a pain... if you don't stir it constantly, it catches and burns. But now, I'm wondering if you can cook that in the oven...? After all, it works with rice. -- Antonia di Benedetto Calvo Frog's eggs? I've done it a couple of times. It's a pain to make, but crock pots have worked well for me. Bear ======= Huh? What do "Frog eggs" have to do with this? What do you mean by "it"? Frog's eggs or frumenty? Stefan the perplexed >>>> There is a recipe for frumenty that uses wheat berries cooked in milk or cream. The result is a slightly gelatinous mass that resembles frogs eggs, which gives them the nick-name. frogs eggs. Bear Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 07:42:02 -0400 From: Johnna Holloway Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: Cooks within the SCA There are versions of the recipes that call for oven baking until soft at 250 degrees. I would guess timing out a huge quantity would be a problem plus it ties up oven space. Maybe roasters would do??? The last time I made it we used crock pots and we didn't make that much. You don't always find recipes that cook in the milk. A number of modern/traditional recipes call for soaked wheat berries to be simmered in fresh water. The soaking produces creed wheat and that gelantinous mass is then used to make the frumenty. The milk/cream can then be added and it's sweetened and then again baked or boiled. Dorothy Hartley gives a recipe that says "Boyle hit tylle hit brest (burst) then; Let hit down, as I thee kenne. Take new mylke, and play hit up. Till hit be thykkerede to sup." There's a foodie post with pictures and a discussion at: http://adambalic.typepad.com/the_art_and_mystery_of_fo/2008/03/frumenty.html Johnnae <<< With perhaps some sacrifice to authenticity, for heavy production purposes, equal parts Wheatena (or other equivalent whole wheat cereal such as fine bulgur) and Cream of Wheat are your friends. They cook quickly and can even finish cooking off the flame in their own residual heat in a large pot. You can then whisk the bejabbers out of it, add milk, yolks, or whatever. The end result is, if not totally indistinguidhable from the real, slow-cooked article, sure ain't Minute Rice... Adamantius >>> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 06:47:06 -0500 From: "Terry Decker" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: "Cooks within the SCA" The dish I'm thinking of takes hours to prepare, which is why burning is a problem. The wheat berries get very soft and swell but retain their shape inside a translucent white gel of milk and starch, ergo "frogs eggs." Great taste, but it's not a practical dish for large feasts, as you say. Bear Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 06:39:58 -0700 From: edoard@medievalcookery.com Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: "Cooks within the SCA" From: Antonia Calvo <<< I've made milk-and-wheat frumenty at a feast, but it's kind of a pain... if you don't stir it constantly, it catches and burns. But now, I'm wondering if you can cook that in the oven...? After all, it works with rice. >>> I've tried making frumenty in the oven, and it does work with cracked wheat (see notes at URL below). I didn't change the water ratio at all (2 water : 1 grain), but I did have to cook it a *lot* longer (2 hours as opposed to 15 minutes). So if oven space is plentiful and you're making absolutely huge batches, then this may be the way to go. Frumenty http://recipes.medievalcookery.com/frumenty.html For the feast I'm cooking in two weeks I'll probably use the oven method, but I may try using roasters instead. - Doc Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 10:04:31 -0400 From: "Elaine Koogler" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] kitchen tips To: "Cooks within the SCA" I wonder if using slow cookers would work...there are liners that can be purchased for them that make cleanup a walk in the park...remove the liner and throw it away!! I did a wheatberry soup for the Middle Eastern feast using them...I had two large ones and a smaller one...and borrowed another. This made enough soup to feed 120 people. It worked very well and gave the wheatberries plenty of time to soften and expand the way they were supposed to. I did this in advance, and simply reheated the soup on the day of the event. Kiri Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 12:32:51 -0400 From: Johnna Holloway Subject: [Sca-cooks] Frumenty recipe To: Cooks within the SCA Here's an interesting historic recipe for the dish. Frumenty. Wash well a pint of best wheat, and soak for twenty-four hours in water just sufficient to cover. Put the soaked wheat in a covered earthen baking pot or jar, cover well with water, and let it cook in a very slow oven for twelve hours. This may be done the day before it is wanted, or if one has a coal range in which a fire may be kept all night, or an Aladdin oven, the grain may be started in the evening and cooked at night. When desired for use, put in a saucepan with three pints of milk, a cupful of well-washed Zante currants, and one cup of seeded raisins. Boil together for a few minutes, thicken with four tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and serve. What makes this recipe interesting is that it appears under //MISCELLANEOUS BREAKFAST DISHES //in the book Science in the Kitchen., by Mrs. E. E. Kellogg. She is described as "Superintendent of the Sanitarium School of Cookery and of the Bay View Assembly School of Cookery, and Chairman of the World's Fair Committee on Food Supplies, for Michigan. 1893" The book in the foreword promises "Those who have made themselves familiar with Mrs. Kellogg's system of cookery, invariably express themselves as trebly astonished: first, at the simplicity of the methods employed; secondly, at the marvelous results both as regards palatableness, wholesomeness, and attractiveness; thirdly, that it had never occurred to them "to do this way before. This system does not consist simply of a rehash of what is found in every cook book, but of new methods, which are the result of the application of the scientific principles of chemistry and physics to the preparation of food in such a manner as to make it the most nourishing, the most digestible, and the most inviting to the eye and to the palate." So creating frumenty in this matter is a new method based on scientific principles?!? (The book also contains a lot of recipes for toast.) The entire book is available here http://www.gutenberg.org/files/12238/12238-h/12238-h.htm Johnnae Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 15:29:00 -0400 From: Johnna Holloway Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Frog's eggs addendum To: Cooks within the SCA Some actual Italian recipes for the dish can be found at Baroness Helewyse's website. A recipe that Baroness Helewyse translated from the Italian Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco (14th/15th c.) (Anonimo Veneziano)reads: http://www.geocities.com/helewyse/libro.html *XXIV Maize dish (Frumenty) good and very useful.* If you want to make frumenty, take the wheat berries, and grind/beat it well until the husk lifts, then wash it well. Put it to boil in water, but don?t boil it too much, then pour away the water. Then add inside the fat of whichever animal you wish, and you want to make sure that you don?t add too much. Add sweet and strong spices, and saffron, and if you don?t have wheat then you can take rice, and it will be good. Based on previous discussions here on SCA Cooks, she also did a paper titled on coarse wheat dishes as found in Scappi. Period Italian Maize recipes - There are three recipes in Scappi which use a grain referred to as "formentone" which has been identified as maize by Italian culinary historians. Currently there is still some doubt about this identification. My doubts notwithstanding the three recipes are transcribed and translated here. Johnnae Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius wrote: On Aug 22, 2008, at 1:33 PM, Christiane wrote: <<< This sound a lot like cuccia: http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/recipes/main_cuccia.shtml Of the recipes I have found, I like the last one the best for being the most "medievaloid." >>> Do you think the Italian cheesecake with the soaked wheat berries eaten at Easter is meant to be made with cuccia as a filling, or is it just made with soaked wheat with coincidental resemblances to cuccia? Adamantius Edited by Mark S. Harris frumenty-msg Page 35 of 36