"The cardoon and artichoke in 16th century Italian cooking" by Mistress Helewyse de Birkestad
NOTE: See also the files: artichokes-msg, 16C-Tomato-art, fd-Italy-msg, 16thC-cookbk-bib, asparagus-msg, vegetables-msg, cabbages-msg.
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NOTICE -
This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium.
These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan@florilegium.org
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The cardoon and artichoke in 16th century Italian cooking
by Mistress Helewyse de Birkestad
There have been recent discussions regarding the presence of cardoon and artichoke in SCA era cooking. At least for the Italians both were in use and distinguishable. This can be inferred from the culinary recipes for the same, use of them in menus taken from Scappi [1] and descriptions taken from Castelvetro [2]. The recipes serve to demonstrate how many diverse ways this vegetable was cooked, it was obviously not a novelty and was well integrated into the kitchen. The menus serve to demonstrate that at least for Rome it was a common food, eaten almost daily in season. The final section the description of the vegetables by Castelvetro clearly indicates that the two vegetables were as distinct then as they are today, with the flowers of the artichoke being eaten and the stems of the cardoon. So for this time (mid through late 16th century) in this place (central Italy) they are both appropriate vegetables to serve at SCA feasts, laying well within our timeframe of 6th – 16th centuries.
Piglisi il cardo nella sua stagione, liqual comincia in Roma da mezo Settembre, & dura per tutto Marzo, & habbianosi le parti piu tenere, & bianche delle coste, perchioche quelle che saranno rosse, & leggiere non son buone, mondinosi, & faccianosi stare in molle nellĠacqua fredda per tre hore almeno, mutando loro lĠacqua. Il che si fa per cavar loro lĠamaritudine, & perche nello storcere che fanno vengono piu tenere. Il simile facciasi della parta diu tenerea del pedone, & lascinosi cuocere con brodo grasso di carne grassa nel modo che si cuoceno i finocchi nellĠantescritto capitolo 207. Et se si vorranno prima perlessar con acqua semplice sar in arbitrio, & cotti che saranno cuocanosi con esse carni. Ma essendo cotti solo con brodo, & cervellate gialle, se ne potranno coprir capponi, galline, & altri ulcellami, alessati con cascio, zuccaro, pepe, & cannella sopra. Si potrebbeno ancho stufare li detti cardi con diverse carni salate, & ucellami nel modo che si stufano le cipolle nel capitolo 209. In questi modi si potranno cuocere i pedoni di carciofani, havendoli prima perlessati, & netti del piumino & pigliandoli nella loro stagione, laqual comincia in Roma a mezo Febraro, & duar per tutto Giugno; Et volendo empire, & dapoi sottestare i detti pedoni di carciofani, dapoi che saranno perlessati si empiranno dĠuna compositione fatta come quella, di che empie la rapa del caulo torsuto nel capitolo 194. Et si cuoceranno con il medesimoe ordine della deta rapa. Li detti pedoni ancho dapoi che saranno pieni si potranno scaldare su la graticola, & altre volte i carciofani si cuoceno intieri in brodo, & si parento per mezo, si soffriggono, & si pongono su la graticola, bagnandoli di strutto liquefatto, & si serveno con strutto, & aceto rosato sopra.
Take the cardoon in its season, which starts in Rome in the middle of September and lasts all the way to March. Take the most tender part, the white of the ribs, because that which is red and soft is not good, peel them and let them soak in cold water for at least three hours with changes of water. This one does because it pulls out the bitterness, and because it unravels and becomes more tender. You can do the same with the most tender part of the foot (could mean stalk or heart) and let them cook with fat broth of fat meat in the water that one cooks the fennel in the previous chapter 207. And if you want to first parboil them in simple water that is your decision, and when they are cooked (parboiled) cook them with this meat. But they can be cooked only with broth and yellow "cervellate" [A], if you want to cover capons, chicken and other birds boil them then serve with cheese, sugar, pepper and cinnamon sprinkled on top. One can also stew the said cardoon with various salted meats and birds in the way that one stews onions in chapter 209. In this way one can cook the feet of artichoke having first parboiled them and cleaned them of their choke (literally translates as plume of feathers), and take them during their season which starts in Rome in mid February and lasts through the whole of June. If you want to stuff them, and then cook the said hearts of artichoke, after they have been parboiled one stuffs them with a filling made like that which one uses to fill the turnip of the stalked cabbage in chapter 194.[B] And one cooks it with the same methods as the said turnip. The said feet after they have been stuffed can also be heated on the grill, and other times the artichoke you cook whole in broth, one then splits them in half and fries them, and one can put them on the grill bathed with melted lard, and one serves with lard and rose scented vinegar above.
[A] – Cervellate is a type of sausage or salami found in Milan
[B] – I believe that this is the same as the modern kohl rabbi, based on the description of a cabbage which one eats the swollen stalk.
Notes: A recipe typical of Scappi which creates more questions than it solves. Is the pedoni the foot of the flower bract, what we would call the heart or some of the stalk underneath? References to it being stuffed appear to indicate the former rather than the later. To give full details of how these dishes are cooked it is necessary to also translate the recipe for cooking fennel, onions and kohl rabbi, a situation typical of Scappi who for sake of space doesnĠt repeat instructions merely refers you to previous recipes. This is how small projects grow into large ones.
Piglisi la parte piu bianca, & piu tenera del finocchio nella sua stagione, laquale in Roma comincia lĠAutunno, & dura per tutto Marzo, & lavisi in piu acque, & pongasi insieme in mazzuoli, li quali si facciano cuocere in buon brodo di carne che bolla con piedi, e teste di porco misalate, & pezzi di schiena di castrato, & di vaccina, & accioche il brodo habbia un poco di corpo, pongavisi mollica di pane, che sia state a molle nel detto brodo, & passata per un foratoro, & quando i detti finocchi saranno cotti, servanosi con le dette altre materie sopra; Con li detti finocchi si possono cuocere galline, pollanche, capponi, piccioni, & altri ucellami & se ne possono ancho coprire capponi & oche alessate spargendovi sopra cascio grattato, & cannella, & pepe.
Take the whitest and most tender part of the fennel in its season, which in Rome starts in the Autumn and lasts through the whole of March, and wash it well in water, and put it in a casserole, in which one has cooked a good broth of meat that has boiled with feet and heads of slightly slated pork, and pieces of mutton shoulder and of cow in order that the broth has a little body, add crumb of bread which has first been soaked in the said broth and passed through a fine hair sieve, and when the said fennel are cooked serve them with the other things above. And with the said fennel one can cook chickens, turkeys, capons, pigeons and other birds, and one can also use them to cover capons and geese which have been boiled and sprinkle above grated cheese, cinnamon and pepper.
Il porro comincia del mese di Novembre, & dura per tutto Marzo, & la cipolla vecchia grossa comincia del mese di Agosto, et dura per tutto Marzo, et dĠambedue piglisi la parte piu bianca, et mondisi, et facciasi perlessare in acqua calda, dall aqua dapoi cavisi, et mettasi nellĠacqua fredda, et quando lĠuna et lĠaltra saranno cavate dalla detta acqua, lascinosi colare, & faccianosi finir di cuocere in quel modo che si cuoceno li germogli di finocchio con le medesime carni come nel cap 207. & se si voranno battere minute con li coltelli, battute che saranno, faccianosi soffriggere con lardo liquefatto, & dapoi faccianosi finir di cuocere con brodo di carne, maritandole con uove battuto, & cascio grattato, & spetierie communi. Si possono ancho da poi che son perlessate in acqua cosi intiere stufar con capponi, o con altri ucellami salvatici, o con schiena di cignale, che habbia il callo con brodo di carne, & fette di gola di porco salate, & cervellate giallo, & agresto chiaro, pepe, garofani, cannella, noci moscate, zafferano, & zuccaro, e stufate che saranno servasi ogni cosa insieme in piatti grandi.
The (season of the) leek begins in the month of November and lasts throughout march, and the large old onion begins in the month of August and lasts for all of Marche. For both take the whitest part and peel them and parboil them in hot water, then take them out of the water and put them in cold water, and when one or ther other is pulled out of this water let them drain. Finish cooking them in the same way that one cooks sprouts of fennel in the same meats as in chapter 207. And if you want to chop them finely with a knife, chop them, and put them to fry with melted lard, and after to finish cooking them with meat broth, then make a liason with beaten eggs, grated cheese and common spices. One can also, after they are parboiled in water, stew them whole with capons or other wild birds or with the shoulder of boar which has the tendon, with meat broth, and pieces of jowl of pig salted and yellow ÒcervellateÓ and clear verjuice, pepper, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, saffron and sugar, and when they are stewed served altogether in large plates.
Piglisi il caulo torsuto del mese dĠAprile per tutto Maggio nel qual tempo piu tenero benche duri per tutto Ottobre, mondisi la rapa, e taglisi in bocconcini, & pongasi in un vaso di terra, o di rame con del brodo, che non sia troppo salato, & lardo battuto, & ventresca tagliata in pezzi, & lingue di porco salate, & facciasi cuocere ogni cosa insieme, lasciando in arbitrio se vi si voranno porre alcune frondi dĠessi cauli, & quando saranno cotti pongavisi una brancata di herbette battute con un poco di pepe, non havendovi poste le foglie, & servanosi calde con lĠaltre materie sopra. Si pu fare in unĠaltro modo, cio perlessata che sar la rapa dĠesso caulo in brodo battasi bene minuta con li coltelli sopra una tavola, & pongasi in un vaso di terra, o di rame con brodo grasso, & pepe, & canella, & un poco di lardo liquefatto per dargli sapore, & facciasi finir di cuocere, & incorporisi con uova, cascio grattato, & zafferano, servasi caldo con spetierei dolci sopra. Volendo empir le rape intiere piglinosi le piu tenere, & faccianosi perlessare in buon brodo, cavinosi, & lascinosi rifreddare, & facciasi un buco nel mezo, & empiasi quel buco dĠuna composition fatta di carne magra di vitella, & presciutto vergellato, battuto, & mescolato con cascio, uova, e spetierie communi, e spigoli dĠaglio, & herbuccie battute, & faccianosi cuocere, in una tortiere con lardo liquefatto, e tanto brodo, che stiano meze coperte, & diasi il foco sotto, & sopra come le torte, & cotte che saranno servanosi calde. In questo modo si possono sottestare i pedoni di carcioffani.
Take the cabbage stem in the month of April and for all of May in which time it is the most tender however it is in season for through October. Peel the turnip and cut it into bite sized pieces and put it in a ceramic pot or one of copper with broth that isnĠt too salty, and chopped lard, and "ventresca" [A] cut into pieces and salted pork tongue, and let everything cook together, leaving it to ones decision if one wants to add several leaves of this cabbage, and when they are cooked add a handful of chopped herbs with a little pepper, if you have not added the leaves, and serve hot with the other things above it. And one can make it in another way, that is once the turnip is parboiled take it from the broth and chop it finely with a knife on the table and put into a ceramic or copper pot with fat broth, pepper, cinnamon and a little bit of melted lard to give it flavor, and let it finish cooking, incorporate the broth with eggs, grated cheese and saffron and serve hot with sweet spices above. If you want to stuff the whole turnip take the most tender and parboil them with good broth, take them out and let them cook, and make a hole in the middle and fill this hole with a mixture made of lean veal meat, striped ham (layers of fat and meat) chopped and mixed with cheese, eggs and common spices, garlic cloves, chopped herbs, and put them to cook in a tart pan [B] with melted lard and enough broth that they are half covered, and give them fire above and below like a pie and when they are cooked serve hot. In this way one can also prepare artichoke feet.
[A] - pigĠs paunch filled with meat and stuffing tightly squeezed a sort of exaggerated sausage
[B] - a tortiere or tart pan is specifically designed to allow you to cook pies in the fire, used a little bit like a dutch oven with coals underneath and above the dish to provide an even baking environment.
Notes: you can see why I call this Kohl Rabbi. It talks about the "turnip" of a cabbage stalk, later recipes refer to turnips (rapa) specifically and also rutabega/swede (rapa giallo or yellow turnip). This particular recipe is also followed by recipes for cauliflower (cauli fiori literally cabbage flowers), headed cabbage (cauli capucci), milan and bolognese cabbage (caulo Milansi & Bolognesi) which also tends to strongly indicate itĠs place in the extended cabbage family.
Piglinisi i carciofani nella sua stagione come si dice nel secondo libro delle vivande a cap 212, & faccianisi cuocere in brodo di carne, overo in acqua, & sale, & piglisi il pedone, che la parte migliore, & sia ben netto, & se sar grosso taglisi in fette, & faccisene la crostata, & pasticcio, con le medesime compositioni che si fa del prugnolo. In questo modo si potr fare del pedone del cardo alessato & tagliato in fette.
To make a tart or pastry of artichoke feet and cardoons. Cap 59 Fifth book.
Take the artichokes in their season as one has said in the second book of the foods in chapter 212, and cook them in meat broth or in water and salt, and take the feet, that is the best part, and clean them well, and if they are big cut them in slices and make the tart or pastry with the same composition as one makes that for "prugnolo" [A]. In this way one can also make it with the stem of the cardoon boiled and cut into slices.
[A] Agaricus prugnolo a species of field mushroom related to the standard white mushroom sold in most stores (Agaricus bisporus). An appropriate substitute would probably be the baby portabella mushrooms.
Notes: again we have to reference another recipe to make a dish.
Per far crostate & pasticci di diverse frutte dando principio al fongo detto prugnolo. Cap LVII
Piglinisi prugnoli nella sua stagione, come si dice nel secondo libro delle vivande a cap 214. Nettisino di quella pellicina che hanno intorno, & sopra tutto il pedone sia privo della rena, & si faccino stare in mollo nellĠacqua per un quarto dĠhora, acci meglio si nettino dellĠarena, cavisino, & si lascino scolare da per se, & habbisi apparecchiata la tortiera con i tre sfogli, et il tortiglione sfogliato incirca, et sopra lĠultima sfoglio si ponga un poco di prevatura, & cascio secco grattato, et menta, et maiorana battuta, et bocconcini di medolla di buoe, spolverizzisi ogni cosa di zuccaro, pepe, garofali, cannella, et noci moscate, et sopra essa compositione mettasegli prugnoli con altretanta compositione, e spetierie sopra, et si sbruffino con agresto, et sugo di melangole, e cuoprasi con tre altri sfogli sottili, onti tra lĠuno, e lĠaltro di strutto, o butiro, et facciasi cuocere nel forno, o sotto il testo, et sevarsi calda con zuccaro sopra. In questo modo si puon fare de fonghi spongioli, & altri fonghi teneri nellĠAutunno, & dĠessa compositione se ne puon fare pasticci in cassa, sfogliati, & non sfogliati.
To make a tart or pasty of many kinds of fungal fruits, principally that called "prugnolo". Cap. 57.
Take ÒprugnoliÓ in their season, as one has said in the second book of dishes in chapter 214. Remove the skin which they have around them and above all the foot clean of its netting, and put them to soak in water for a quarter of an hour, in order that one can better clean them. Take them out and let them drain by themselves. And have prepared a tart pan with three sheets [A] and "tortiglione" [B] around the rim, and above the last sheet put a little bit of provatura (mozzarella made with buffalo milk) and dry cheese grated, mint and marjoram chopped, and cubes of beef marrow, powder everything with sugar, peper, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and onto this mixture put the mushrooms with more of this same mixture above, and sprinkle it with verjuice and sour orange juice and cover with three other thin sheets (of pastry) greasing between each one with either lard or butter and put it to cook in the oven or under a "testo" [C] and serve hot with sugar above. In this way one can make it with morel mushrooms or other tender mushrooms in autumn, and with this mixture you can make pastries in cases, layered or non layered.
[A] – one of the fancier ways of making a tart shell in Scappi is to layer many sheets of thin pasty with butter or lard between each one. The pasty recipe given for crostate consists of flour, rose water, egg yolks, butter and salt. Somewhat similar to todayĠs filo pasty.
[B] – tortiglione are shaped pasty which adorn the edge of many of the pies and pastries. Think of these as pretty decoration, the indication from the descriptions is of twirls, circles etc..
[C] – the "Dutch oven" type set up whereby a tart or pie can be cooked in the fire with coals.
Per fare torta di Cardi in giorno Quadregesimale Cap CCXXI Quinto libro
Piglisi il cardo, & mondisi la parte migliore, & faccisi stare in mollo per due hore, taglisi il pedone in piu fette, faccisi bollire con acqua & sale, & olio dĠamandole dolci, & cotto che sar battasi minutamente con i coltelli, giungasegli una brancata dĠherbuccie battute, & per ogni libra di compositione, quattro concie di tartufoli mondi tagliati minuti, & unĠoncia, e mezza di mostaccioli pisti, due oncie di pignoli mondi stati in mollo, ammaccati, tre oncie dĠuva passa di Corintho ben netta, quattro oncie di zuccaro, mezzĠoncia di cannella, mezzĠoncia di pepe, sale abastanza, sugo di melangole, tre oncie dĠolio dĠamandole, & ogni cosi si mescoli insieme, & se ne facci torta con due sfogli di pasta, & faccisi la crostata di zuccaro, & servasi calda. In questo modo si puo fare di pedoni di carciofani alessati, & battuti & delle palmette Napoletane.
To make a tart of cardoon in lenten days. Cap 221 Fifth book
Take the cardoon and peel the best part and put it to soak for two hours, cut the stalk in many slices and boil it with water, salt and sweet almond oil. When it is cooked mince it finely with a knife and add to it a handful of chopped herbs, and for every pound of filling four ounces of truffles peeled and cut small, an ounce and a half of biscotti ground, two ounces of pine nuts which have been peeled, soaked and broken (chopped coarsely) three ounces of well washed currants, four ounces of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of pepper and enough salt, sour orange juice and three ounces of almond oil, and mix everything together and make tarts with two sheets of pasta, and make a crust (on the pie) with sugar and serve hot. In this one can also make with boiled chopped artichokes and with Naples palm [A].
[A] I have no idea what this is, unless it is heart of palm.
Mentions of Artichoke and Cardoon in the menus of Scappi [1]
Rather than drive myself insane transcribing and translating the numerous references to dishes made of artichoke and cardoon in the menus of Scappi they are given instead as follows:
Name of the dish: course served: days when this combination appears.
Carciofani cotti serviti con aceto & pepe – cooked artichoke served with vinegar and pepper
Second or third service from the sideboard (last or penultimate course)
8th, 15th, 25th, fast day April lunch and dinner,
8th, 15th, 25th fast day May lunch and dinner, breakfast served on the last day of May in the garden
8th, 15th 25th fast day June lunch and dinner
8th, 15th July lunch only
8th August lunch and dinner, 15th August lunch only
Lean day in February lunch only, Breakfast on last day of February.
8th, 15th March Lunch and Dinner
8th, 18th and 30th day of lent Lunch only
Carciofani crudi serviti con sale & pepe – raw artichoke served with salt and pepper
Second or third service from the sideboard (last or penultimate course)
8th, 15th, 25th, fast day April lunch and dinner,
8th, 15th, 25th fast day May lunch and dinner, breakfast served on the last day of May in the garden
8th, 15th 25th fast day June lunch and dinner, breakfast served on the last day of June
8th, 15th July lunch and dinner, 25th dinner only
8th August lunch and dinner, 15th August lunch only
Lean day in February lunch only, Breakfast on last day of February.
8th, 18th and 30th day of lent Lunch only
Cardi serviti con sale & pepe – cardoon served with salt and pepper
Second or third service from the sideboard (last or penultimate course)
21st October lunch, 28th October dinner
7th, 15th, 21st, 28th, fast day November lunch and dinner
8th, 15th, 25th, December lunch and dinner, breakfast served last day of December.
8th, 15th, 25th, 17th, last day January, lunch and dinner
8th, 16th, fast day, February lunch and dinner, breakfast last day of February
8th , last day March lunch only, 15th lunch and dinner,
30th day of lent
Pasticci di pedoni di carciofani di tre per pasticcio – pastry of artichoke feet, three per pastry
8th May dinner, 2nd service kitchen
lean day May lunch and dinner 3rd service sideboard
Pasticci di pedoni di carciofani con cascio, medolla di buoe, & zuccaro dentro, di tre pedoni per pasticcio – pastry of artichoke feet with cheese, beef marrow and sugar inside, of three feet per pastry
25th May third service from the sideboard
Carciofani sofritti col butiro servito con aceto rosato & pepe – artichoke fried in butter served with rose scented vinegar and pepper.
May 25th third service sideboard.
Carciofani sofritti con butiro servito con sugo di melangole & pepe – artichoke fried in butter served with sour orange juice and pepper.
Breakfast in the garden last day May, second service
15th July dinner, 2nd service from the sideboard
Pasticci di pedoni di carciofani di 20 per pasticcio – pasty of artichoke feet of 20 per pastry
25th June dinner, 4th service from the kitchen
Pasticci di pedoni di caciofani 12 per pasticcio – pasty of artichoke feet of 12 per pastry
30th day of lent, lunch 2nd service from the sideboard
Pasticci di pedoni di caciofani 10 per pasticcio – pasty of artichoke feet of 10 per pastry
Lean day in March second service sideboard
Cardi stufati – stewed cardoon
Last day in December 3rd service breakfast
Last day in January 2nd service lunch
Insalate di cardi stufati – salad of stewed cardoon
Lean day in December, dinner first service from the sideboard.
Notes: artichoke and cardoon are distinct vegetables as they show seasonal patterns in the menus in which they appear. What is of note is that in those months where either cardoon or artichoke are in season they appear in virtually every menu given. The number of times they appear in menus is exceeded only by that of common items such as cheese, wafers or grapes. Most of the time these vegetables are served in the last service of the meal, that from the sideboard, which indicates a cold dish. In one case cardoon appears served as a salad in the first course. Pies are the second most popular presentation of artichokes, several different pies appear in the menu differing only in the number of artichokes per pie, from 3 to 12.
Mentions of cardoon and artichoke in Castelvetro [2]
The author of this work was exiled to England from his native Italy due to Protestantism (he was, they werenĠt!). He wrote this wonderful treatise in England for Lucy Countess of Bedford, expecting her to become his patron, sadly she had bought too many ball gowns and wasnĠt able to afford him. However, this whole document is centered around one thing, the Italian love for the vegetable and their respect for it in food. The English (and other northern Europeans) are often lambasted for the shoddy way which they treat all their vegetables. I really recommend his section on the salad, worth the read. Here a distinct difference is given between the two vegetables. The artichoke is listed in the spring vegetables, while the cardoon among the autumn and winter. The globe or leaf type of the artichoke is referred to and it is clearly stated that the cardoon does not have an edible fruit or flower, rather it is the stems that are eaten after blanching by earthing up.
Seguitano i carciofi, dico in Italia, ove non durano tutto lĠanno, come sovente fanno in questo fertilissimo reame. Si mangiano i carciofi crudi e cotti, ma con alcun ragionevole riguardo, perch, come son grossi quanto una commune noce, son buoni da mangiar crudi, n altro con essi si mangia che sale, pepe e cacio vecchio. Se ben molti senza il cacio li mangino, gli uni ci fanno per aborire tal cibo, gli altri per generar lor catarro e alcuni per ignoranza, non sapendo qual sapore accresca loro; n pi grossi dĠun pomo commune crudi son buoni. A pi foggie poi noi gli cuociamo, oltre alla non biasimevole maniera inglese, perch i piccioli, che non vogliam mangiare crudi, tagliate alquanto le cime delle loro pungenti foglie, diam loro prima un bollo in acqua pura, la qual gittiam via per essere amarissima, e poi gli facciam finire di cuocere in buon brodo di carne grassa di manzo o di capponi; e cotti che sono, li nettiamo in un piatto alquanto cupo con un poco di quel brodo, e sopra vi spargiamo formaggio vecchio grattugiato e pepe, che accresce lor bont, e cos vengono da noi trovati un ghiotto mangiare, che a scriverlo mi fa venir lĠacqua in bocca. Di simiglianti ancora ne facciam pasticci accompagnati da monne ostriche e dalla midolla deĠ manzi, non gli privando del suo sale n del suo pepe, e per farne tai pasticci convien dar lor prima il bollo test detto. I pi grossi cuociamo su la graticola, tagliando lor la met delle foglie, e sopra vi gittiam olio, pepe e sale; e chi dopo glĠinaffier di sugo di naranzi mi rendo certo che non far lor danno veruno; e piacciono oltre a modo, a questa maniera cotti, a chiunque ne mangia. I soverchi grossi, quali in questa isola nascono, cuociamo un poco prima in acqua e poi tra le loro gran foglie, che dalla met in su tagliamo, mettiamo delle ostriche con dellĠacqua lor natia e bocconcini di midolla di manzo con pepe, sale e olio o butiro fresco, e poi ne facciam pasticci che riescono fuor dĠogni credere ottimi.
Of the Artichoke
Follows the artichoke, as we call it in Italy, however it does not last all year, like it does in this fertile land. One eats the artichoke raw and cooked, but there are several rules to follow, because, when they as large as a hazelnut they are good to eat raw, with nothing more than salt, pepper and old cheese. They are good for many to eat without cheese, there are many who abhor this food, the others it generates phlegm, and for others ignorance (why many donĠt eat it? Not sure on the language here). Hey do not know that the flavor comes from them, if they are not larger than a common apple they are good raw. When they are bigger then we cook them however not in that base manner of the English, because the little ones that one doesnĠt want to eat raw one cuts away enough of the sprouts of their spiky leaves, and give them first a boil in clear water, which one throws away to reduce the bitterness, and then we finish cooking them in good broth of fat beef or capon, and when they are cooked we put them in a deep plate with some of that broth and above we sprinkle aged cheese grated and pepper and this increases their goodness. And these we have found to be delicious dish for even as I write about it my mouth is watering. In a similar way we make pastries with shucked oysters and beef marrow, not depriving the dish on top salt or pepper, and to make this pastry it is first better to give the heads a boil. The biggest we cook on the grill, cut through the middle of the leaves, and above we add oil, pepper and salt, and after we add sour orange juice to make sure that they keep the green leaves, and we love either way these are cooked to eat. The excessively large, like those which grow on this island, we cook first in water, and then between their large leaves, that are cut in half, we put oysters with their water and bits of beef marrow with pepper, salt and oil or fresh butter, and then we make pastries that are beyond your wildest dreams.
DeĠ cardi.
Intorno la fine di questa stagione sotterriamo noi i cardi, chĠ una spezie di carchiofoli, ma non produce frutto che sia buono; le sue foglie colla parte di mezzo, sotterrate, divengono di verdi bianchissime e dĠamare assai dolci; e ben mondi e lavati si cuocono in buon brodo e sĠacconciano a punto come del cavolo torsuto ho detto; et cibo pi del verno che di questa stagione, n mai si vuole trar dalla terra se non quando si vuol mangiare.
Of the cardoon
At the end of this season we earth up the cardoon, which is a type of artichoke, but it does not produce good fruit, itĠs leaves have a rib in the middle, when earthed the green becomes the whitest and the sour becomes sweet, and well peeled and washed we cook it in good broth and prepare it like the stalked cabbage (kohl rabbi) as I have said, and it is a food more of the winter than this season (autumn) but if you do not give it earth you will not want to eat it.
1. Scappi, B., Opera : (dell' arte del cucinare). Reprint. First published: Opera di M. Bartolomeo Scappi. Venice, 1570. 1981, Bologna: Arnaldo Forni. [20], 436 leaves [ca. 888 p.], [28] p. of plates.
2. Castelvetro, G., Brieve racconto di tutte le radici, di tutte l'erbe e di tutti i frutti che crudi o cotti in Italia si mangiano. 1614, In Londra, M.DC.XIV.
Transcribed, translated and annotated by Mistress Helewyse de Birkestad, mka Louise Smithson November 2004.
Copyright rests with Louise Smithson. Email helewyse at yahoo dot com Permission is given for non-profit use, including study, feasts and publication provided that full acknowledgement is given to the author.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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