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Rosquillas-msg - 6/20/01

 

A late-period Spanish pastry which "look like bagels and taste like biscotti".

 

NOTE: See also the files: Guisados1-art, Period-Pies-art, bread-msg, breadmaking-msg, ovens-msg, cookies-msg, gingerbread-msg, desserts-msg, pastries-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I  have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given by the individual authors.

 

Please  respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The  copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear at this time. If  information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:02:44 -0500

From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>

Subject: SC - Rosquillas (recipe)

 

I've been doing some more baking.  Below is a period Spanish recipe

(and my redaction) for rosquillas.  The name means "little rings".

Modern rosquillas are generally leavened with baking powder, fried, and

glazed.  (I understand that in the Spanish-language version of "The

Simpsons", Homer's constant cry is, "Oooh.... rosquillas!").  Period

rosquillas are sweet egg-leavened rings, which are boiled, then baked.

One of my friends commented, "I like them, but they're confusing.  They

look like bagels and taste like biscotti!"

 

Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_, Spanish, 1599

 

Translation and redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)

 

PARA HAZER ROSQUILLAS -- To make rosquillas (little rings)

 

For forty egg yolks, a pound of ground sugar, and as much white wine

as will fit in the shell of an egg, and a little anise, and a little cinnamon,

and a little cow=92s butter, and a little orange flower water. Knead

everything with fine flour, and cast in what should be necessary to

conform to the quantity of eggs.  Knead with a light hand, so that you

do not break the dough, which should not be very hard, nor very soft, but

well pummelled, and being good, make the rosquillas the size that you

wish.  Have on the fire a kettle of water, and when it begins to boil, cast

the rosquillas within, in such a manner that they do not go one on top of

another, and cast them in until they ascend.  Upon ascending they are

cooked.  Put them in some kneading troughs, and being cooled, remove

them and send them to the oven to cook, which should be quite

temperate.

 

Rosquillas

 

20 egg yolks (medium or large)

1/2 pound sugar (1-1/4 cups)

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon white wine

2 tablespoons orange-flower water

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground anise

5 to 5-1/4 cups all purpose flour

 

Preheat the oven to 350 F.  Fill a large, wide pot with water, at least 4-5

inches deep, and bring it to a boil.  Adjust the heat so the water is at a

constant simmer.

 

Beat the egg yolks lightly in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer equipped

with a dough hook.  Stir in the sugar, butter, wine, orange-flower water,

and the spices.  Add 3 cups of the flour and mix well. Gradually add

flour, kneading continually, until you have a dough of medium firmness.

It will be sticky, and it will *not* form a ball on the dough-hook or clean

the sides of the bowl.  It will more closely resemble a sugar-cookie

dough than a bread dough.  Add just enough flour to make a dough that

can be handled and shaped.  Knead well, about 8-10 minutes.  The

dough will be fairly smooth.

 

Scrape the dough out of the bowl onto a flat surface. Cover with a damp

cloth so it does not dry out.  Roll a piece of dough into a ball about 1-

1/2 inches in diameter.  Flatten the ball slightly, and with your thumb

and forefinger, pinch a hole in the center of the disc. Enlarge the hole

and shape the dough until you have a doughnut-like ring, about 2-1/2

inches in diameter and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick.

 

When you have shaped several rosquillas, drop them, one at a time,

into the simmering water.  (You did get the pot of water ready, didn't

you?)  They will sink like stones to the bottom of the pot.  Watch out for

scalding-hot splashes, and make sure that the rosquillas do not settle

on top of each other.  They will begin to expand slightly, and to become

whiter and wrinkled.  In about 4-5 minutes, the rosquillas will suddenly

float to the surface of the water.  As each one rises, remove it gently

with a slotted spoon or a skimmer, and place on a rack to cook and dry.

Continue shaping and simmering rosquillas until all the dough is used

up.

 

When the rosquillas are cool to the touch, place them on an ungreased

cookie sheet, and bake 20-25 minutes at 350 F until lightly browned.

Cool on racks.  Makes about 2-1/2 dozen.

 

Notes:

 

My redaction is half of the original recipe, as it makes a quantity that

is convenient for a home kitchen.  A quarter-recipe also works well.  I

made two test batches using my KitchenAid mixer.  One batch, which I

hand-kneaded for 10 minutes, did not turn out well.  They took twice as

long to rise in the water, and then they drifted up languidly.  After

baking, they were unpleasantly dense.  A long period of hand-kneading

would probably solve that problem.

 

I decided to conduct an egg size experiment.  After separating out the

yolks from 10 medium eggs, I weighed them.  The yolks varied in size,

but the total came to 165 grams (5-3/4 oz.) in weight.  I then started

weighing the yolks of large eggs, on the assumption that I would need

fewer of them.  These also varied in size, but 10 large yolks came to

166 grams.  I do not know how the yolks from larger or smaller eggs

would compare.

 

The anise and cinnamon flavors blended subtlely and pleasantly.  Even

my anise-hating husband pronounced the rosquillas acceptable.  I could

not detect the flavor of the orange-flower water, even when I increased

the quantity to 2 tablespoons.  I suspect it could be omitted if

unavailable, without much noticeable change.

 

The rosquillas are good for dipping in tea or coffee. They would probably

keep for at least several days in an air-tight container.

 

Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)

 

 

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 16:56:11 -0500

From: Ian Gourdon <agincort at raex.com>

Subject: SC - Re: Rosquillas

 

The redacted recipe as passed to me by Ceinwen:

 

Rosquillas:

Boil 4 qts. water

20egg yolks

11/4c.sugar

4T.butter

1T.white wine

1T.orange ext.

1/2t.cinnamon

1/2t.ground anise

5-51/4c. flour

 

Preheat oven 350. In mixer, beat eggs. Cream in sugar, butter, wine,

extract, and spices. Gradually incorporate flour, use a dough hook if

you have one. This will resemble a sticky cookie dough. Knead with

floured hands to form 11/2in. balls. Pinch a hole in the center to form

rings. Drop into boiling water...do not pile. Remove rings when

floating. Allow to dry. Bake 20-25 min. until just beginning to brown.

(Granado, 1599)

 

Perhaps someone has the original...

Ian Gourdon

 

 

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 20:56:36 -0500 (EST)

From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>

Subject: RE: SC - Re: Rosquillas

 

Ian Gourdon <agincort at raex.com> wrote:

>The redacted recipe as passed to me by Ceinwen:

 

>Rosquillas:

[snip]

>Perhaps someone has the original...

>Ian Gourdon

 

This seems to be the redaction I sent to the list last year, except that

orange extract has been substituted for orange-flower water.  I am very

impressed by any cook who is willing to make rosquillas in feast quantities.

I believe the redaction is in the Florilegium, but here's a copy, with the

translation of the original recipe, and more detailed cooking instructions:

 

I've been doing some more baking.  Below is a period Spanish recipe  (and my

redaction) for rosquillas.  The name means "little rings".   Modern

rosquillas are generally leavened with baking powder, fried, and  glazed.

(I understand that in the Spanish-language version of "The  Simpsons",

Homer's constant cry is, "Oooh.... rosquillas!").  Period  rosquillas are

sweet egg-leavened rings, which are boiled, then baked.   One of my friends

commented, "I like them, but they're confusing.  They look like bagels and

taste like biscotti!"

 

 

Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_, Spanish, 1599

Translation and redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)

 

PARA HAZER ROSQUILLAS -- To make rosquillas (little rings)

 

For forty egg yolks, a pound of ground sugar, and as much white wine  as

will fit in the shell of an egg, and a little anise, and a little cinnamon,

and a little cow’s butter, and a little orange flower water. Knead

everything with fine flour, and cast in what should be necessary to  conform

to the quantity of eggs.  Knead with a light hand, so that you  do not break

the dough, which should not be very hard, nor very soft, but  well

pummelled, and being good, make the rosquillas the size that you  wish.

Have on the fire a kettle of water, and when it begins to boil, cast  the

rosquillas within, in such a manner that they do not go one on top of

another, and cast them in until they ascend.  Upon ascending they are

cooked.  Put them in some kneading troughs, and being cooled, remove  them

and send them to the oven to cook, which should be quite temperate.

 

 

Rosquillas

 

20 egg yolks (medium or large)

1/2 pound sugar (1-1/4 cups)

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon white wine

2 tablespoons orange-flower water

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground anise

5 to 5-1/4 cups all purpose flour

 

Preheat the oven to 350 F.  Fill a large, wide pot with water, at least 4-5

inches deep, and bring it to a boil.  Adjust the heat so the water is at a

constant simmer.

 

Beat the egg yolks lightly in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer equipped  with

a dough hook.  Stir in the sugar, butter, wine, orange-flower water,  and

the spices.  Add 3 cups of the flour and mix well. Gradually add  flour,

kneading continually, until you have a dough of medium firmness.   It will

be sticky, and it will *not* form a ball on the dough-hook or clean  the

sides of the bowl.  It will more closely resemble a sugar-cookie  dough than

a bread dough.  Add just enough flour to make a dough that can be handled

and shaped.  Knead well, about 8-10 minutes.  The  dough will be fairly

smooth.

 

Scrape the dough out of the bowl onto a flat surface. Cover with a damp

cloth so it does not dry out.  Roll a piece of dough into a ball about 1-

1/2 inches in diameter.  Flatten the ball slightly, and with your thumb  and

forefinger, pinch a hole in the center of the disc. Enlarge the hole  and

shape the dough until you have a doughnut-like ring, about 2-1/2  inches in

diameter and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick.

 

When you have shaped several rosquillas, drop them, one at a time,  into the

simmering water.  (You did get the pot of water ready, didn't  you?)  They

will sink like stones to the bottom of the pot.  Watch out for  scalding-hot

splashes, and make sure that the rosquillas do not settle on top of each

other.  They will begin to expand slightly, and to become whiter and

wrinkled.  In about 4-5 minutes, the rosquillas will suddenly  float to the

surface of the water.  As each one rises, remove it gently with a slotted

spoon or a skimmer, and place on a rack to cook and dry. Continue shaping

and simmering rosquillas until all the dough is used  up.

 

When the rosquillas are cool to the touch, place them on an ungreased

cookie sheet, and bake 20-25 minutes at 350 F until lightly browned.   Cool

on racks.  Makes about 2-1/2 dozen.

 

Notes:

 

My redaction is half of the original recipe, as it makes a quantity that is

convenient for a home kitchen.  A quarter-recipe also works well.  I  made

two test batches using my KitchenAid mixer.  One batch, which I

hand-kneaded for 10 minutes, did not turn out well.  They took twice as

long to rise in the water, and then they drifted up languidly.  After

baking, they were unpleasantly dense.  A long period of hand-kneading  would

probably solve that problem.

 

I decided to conduct an egg size experiment.  After separating out the

yolks from 10 medium eggs, I weighed them.  The yolks varied in size,  but

the total came to 165 grams (5-3/4 oz.) in weight.  I then started  weighing

the yolks of large eggs, on the assumption that I would need  fewer of them.

These also varied in size, but 10 large yolks came to  166 grams.  I do not

know how the yolks from larger or smaller eggs  would compare.

 

The anise and cinnamon flavors blended subtlely and pleasantly.  Even  my

anise-hating husband pronounced the rosquillas acceptable. I could  not

detect the flavor of the orange-flower water, even when I increased  the

quantity to 2 tablespoons.  I suspect it could be omitted if  unavailable,

without much noticeable change.

 

The rosquillas are good for dipping in tea or coffee. They would probably

keep for at least several days in an air-tight container.

 

 

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 10:16:32 -0500

From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>

Subject: Re: SC - PARA HAZER ROSQUILLAS

 

And it came to pass on 24 Jan 01, , that Debra Hense wrote:

> Has anyone trying freezing after making them?  How do they taste? How is their texture?

 

I haven't tried it.  OTOH, many cookies freeze well, and these are

essentially cookies.

 

Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)

 

<the end>



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org