sausages-msg - 11/28/13
Period sausages. Which modern varieties are close to period? Recipes. Blood sausage.
NOTE: See also the files: haggis-msg, meat-smoked-msg, butchering-msg, pig-to-sausag-art, sausage-makng-msg, organ-meats-msg, spices-msg, pepper-spices-msg.
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Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 23:36:13 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - Period sausages
Baaastard at aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know if this sausage is period?
As with many cheese varieties, this probably developed as a local
specialty. It may be period, but it's possible that no record exists of
its earliest creation, and it's also quite possible that the technique
for making it has changed over the years. For instance, Mortadella di
Bologna is almost certainly period, but probably 90% of the mortadella
(and about 99.9% of the bologna) are made with things that would have
horrified Platina. So, it's a tough call. We do know, though, that
cured, smoked, and air-dried sausages existed in period, and there's no
reason to think they were very different from Landjaeger (except for the
ones that contain paprika).
> If it is it would make wonderful
> camp food. If this particular recipe isn't period do you know of any other
> sausages that are? Particularly cured sausages.
Le Menagier de Paris has a recipe for both black puddings and pork
sausages. I believe the sausage recipe instructs that they be hung up in
the smoke, but there doesn't seem to be any deliberate curing or drying
process separate from the smoking.
Sir Hugh Plat gives a detailed recipe for what he calls Polonian
sausages, which appear to be an attempt at recreating Polish krajana or
siekana kielbasa. The sausages are stuffed, then cured in a brine,
blanched, then hung up in a chimney. The recipe states they will keep
for a year and will engender a mighty thirst. Rather like Landjaeger,
don't you think?
Gervase Markham also gives a recipe for "links" which are evidently
fresh pork sausages. This recipe is kind of noteworthy in that it
explains in detail how to chop the meat finely enough with a knife. The
possibility is that they are meant to be smoked, but the recipe doesn't
say so. Other possibilities might include eating them fresh, air drying
without smoke, and preserving them in lard. This last technique is open
to some debate (ahem!).
There are other recipes out there, but these are from fairly commonly
available sources.
Adamantius
From: vjarmstrong at aristotle.net (Valoise Armstrong)
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 09:03:01 -0600
Subject: SC - RE: Period sausages
Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin (16th C., Augsburg) gives recipes for
liverwurst, bratwurst, venison sausage, Zervelat, and a sausage refered to
as 'a good sausgae for a salad.' The 'sausage for a salad' is made from
pork and beef and hung to dry, although the instructions specifically
demand for it not to be hung directly in the smoke or near the oven to
prevent the fat in the bacon from melting. The other sausages don't mention
smoking or drying.
Valoise
From: L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt <liontamr at postoffice.ptd.net>
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:22:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #124
Michael farrel wrote:
>In the class I am currently in we had to make a sausage named landjager. It
>is a German sausage that is smoked then air-dried. When finished it is
>preserved and can be carried around at room temperature no problem.
>
>Does anyone know if this sausage is period? If it is it would make wonderful
>camp food. If this particular recipe isn't period do you know of any other
>sausages that are? Particularly cured sausages.
>
>Michael Farrell
I immediately went to my Sausage "Bible", Great Sausage Recipes and Meat
Curing by Rytek Kutas, and found that it says of landjager "Literally,
landjager means Land Hunter in German. A landjager in Germany was similar to
our National Gaurd or Army Reserve. It seems this sausage was used by the
field troops, as our armed forces use K or C rations. landjager also is
referred to as a pressed sausage and is very popular in the midwestern part
of the USA."
So, though we are no forrader, I can say that at least The Kutas recipe is
not medieval, since it contains dextrose powder and corn syrup solids (plus
white pepper, coriander seeds, salt, pork, beef, Prague Powder, and
something called fermento). That does not mean you are off base, however.
Modern sausage making in bulk has done both wonderful and terrible things to
sausage. Wonderful in that it has mostly eliminated food poisoning, and
awful in that the really wonderful ingredients may have been replaced with
cheap substitutes.
For those who have not tried making their own sausage, I urge you to give it
a shot. I attended a sausage-making class at pennsic (of all places), and
was so inspired that I went home and 2 months later made home-made sausage
for our next event. By hand. With some of the most loyal and wonderful
friends helping me that a gal could want. It took hours, but it was
definately worth it. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.
You'll need to find a good book about sausage making. I gather that there
aren't many out there. You can get a copy of the above mentioned title from
The Sausage Maker, 26 Military Road, Buffalo NY, 14207. They also send free
catalogs to anyone who requests one, at which time you'll be placed on their
mailing list.
Not much help, I know, but an interesting topic.
Aoife
From: Baaastard at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 11:30:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #124
As far as the topic of non-period ingredients in the landjager sausage is
concerned:
1. Prague Powder is a brand name for an ingredient which is simply a curing
salt. 94% salt, 6% sodium nitrate/nitrites, and a touch of pink coloring so
you can distinguish it from salt. Having a brand name to a salt is
distinctly unperiod. However, most natural salt deposits contain nitrates at
some concentration. In period times they would have used salt in the sausage
from the local source thereby including nitrates. The period recipes
therefore wouldn't have included this ingredient, but would have included
nitrates. They have the benefit of being the only food additive to meat
products allowed by the USDA that prevent botulism.
2. Dextrose is used in modern sausage-making because it tastes less sweet
than other sugars. To be period don't use refined sugars. Use a touch of
honey or leave it out entirely.
3. Spices will change from recipe to recipe, I was more concerned with the
process being period and I could haggle about individual flavors later.
4. Fermento. This one takes a little more explanation. It is a lactic acid
producing bacterial culture. Live germs in a freeze dried powder. Again, as
an additive it is non-period. However, considering period sanitation
practices, it is extremely likely that these opportunistic germs were hanging
around the sausage shop. After infecting a few batches, it wouldn't take
long for the sausage maker to realize they weren't all bad. They add a
pleasant tangy flavor to the sausages they are used in. By lowering the ph
of the sausage they also help to preserve it against other microbes. The way
it was explained to me, before modern sanitation techniques, the sausage
maker would use some of the last batch to infect the next one. Sort of like
working with sourdough, a piece of the last one is the starter for the new
batch. How far back in time this practice was done I do not know.
Anyway, I hope that clears up some of the mysteries. And again, if anyone
knows if this particular series of steps was used in period, I would
appreciate the information.
Thank you,
Michael Farrell
From: lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au (Shayne & Trudi Lynch)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 12:36:39
Subject: SC - Roman spree
Have you tried the recipes for the brain sausage- isici de cerebellis and
the liver kromeskis- omentata? I made these for a mundane competition late
last year and got excellent reports back, not only from the judges, but
from my head chef ( who I do belive is now a new convert to the enlightened
ways of the medievil cook. ) For those interested, it was a Salon culinare
and I walked away with an award of merit, 3 sponsor prizes and a t-shirt.
Not bad for a first comp.
Aelfthrythe of Saxony
Journeyman to Master Charles of the Park
Shayne Lynch & Trudi Lynch
[AKA] Francois Henri Guyon & "He's like a giant boulder:
AElfthrythe of Saxony I too thick to think and
lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au I too heavy to move" (anon.)
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 1997 19:30:10 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - brain sausage
Mark A. Sharpe wrote:
> I have seen brain sausage mentioned here a few times and I was wondering
> if it is actually made of what the name implies.
>
> Terrendon the Wanderer
Yup.
"1. Make a mixture of eggs and brains, pounded pine-kernels, pepper,
liquamen, a little asafoetida, and with this stuff a sausage-skin. Boil.
Afterwards grill and serve."
--Apicius De Re Quoquinaria; Lib. II, Sarcoptes
Translated by Flower and Rosenbaum, 1957
Not too different from various white pudding sausages...
Adamantius
From: lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au (Shayne & Trudi Lynch)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 14:44:33
Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #135
> (Grin) Way cool! No, I'm not much of a meat person--hate handling the
>stuff--so I confined myself to less "hands-in" flesh dishes. I really do like
>liver though--any chance you might share your redactions with the rest off
>us? I'm not quite sure who among my aquainances would actually eat such
>"oddities", but maybe if I didn't tell them what it was first................
>;-)
>Ldy Diana
Brain sausage- isicia de cerebellis
put in the mortar pepper, lovage and origany, moisten with broth and rub;
Add cooked brain and mix diligently so that there be no lumps. Incorporate
five eggs and continue mixing well to have a good force meat which you
may thin with broth. Spread this out in a metal pan, cook, and when
cooked [cold]unmould onto a clean table. Cut into a handy size. [now prepare a
a sauce] Put in the mortar pepper, lovage and origany,crush, mix with broth
put into a saucepan, boil,thicken and strain. Heat the pieces of brain
pudding in this sauce thoroughly, dish them up,sprinkle with pepper,
in a mushroom dish.
APICIUS
cooking and dining in imperial Rome
Soak your brains overnight in milk.Next day poach them in new milk and throw
out the milk you soaked them in (which will now be pink from the blood
that you've leached from the brains.) Let the brains cool.In a mortar,
crush pepper, lovage and origany.In a bowl,beat your brains with a wooden
spoon till smooth. Add your eggs and beat them in,but not to roughly,or
you will get to much air through the mixture. Now this is where I moved
from the recipe. The mix as it now stands will bake well as the above says,
but I put it in sausage casing, poached it and then panfried some of it
in butter. others I wrapped in the liver kromski recipe, wrapped that
in caul fat and smoked. Will send the liver recipe later. Late for work.
Aelfthrythe of Saxony
Journeyman to Master Charles of the Park
Shayne Lynch & Trudi Lynch
[AKA] Francois Henri Guyon & "He's like a giant boulder:
AElfthrythe of Saxony I too thick to think and
lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au I too heavy to move" (anon.)
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 10:10:04 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - sausage questions
Mark Harris wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 4, Aelfthrythe of Saxony gave a recipe for
> brain sausage.
> 1) What do you mean by "poaching" something? In cooking, not hunting.
Poaching is a process of cooking in liquid, generally a seasoned,
acidifed water, which is like a very gentle simmer. You want to see tiny
bubbles forming, but not blooping (a technical term every cook should
know) to the surface. Liquid temperature averages about 160=B0F at this
point.
> 2) "others I wrapped in the liver kromski recipe"? Huh? I thought this
> was another sausage. Do you mean a different casing?
Durned if I know. Not being the original postor, I'd have to say it
probably should read "AS in the liver kromeski recipe". Kromeskis are
usually wrapped in bacon, IIRC.
> 3) What is "caul fat"? Do you just smear this on the sausage? Or perhaps
> wrap it in some kind of cloth after you smear on the fat?
Nahh, caul fat (FR. crepin) is a fatty abdominal membrane. A.K.A. lace
fat or, I think, mesentery. It has veins of fat in it, is rather elastic
when raw, so it's good for wrapping sausage meat or pates/terrines in,
to keep them in shape and from drying out.
> 4) How would you smoke the sausage? How long? How do you know it has
> smoked long enough?
Sausages are generally smoked in a smoke house, or sometimes hung high
up inside a fireplace. Depending on your purpose, you can either smoke
for flavor (which takes a couple of hours or so), smoke to preserve in
addition to air drying (as with things like Smithfield ham), or fully
smoke to preserve and/or dry. The latter two would have been more common
in period. Hot smoking, which actually cooks the food, seems to have
been rarer than cold smoking, whose primary purpose is to drive away
insects, actually.
> > The mix as it now stands will bake well as the above says,
> >but I put it in sausage casing, poached it and then panfried some of it
> >in butter. others I wrapped in the liver kromski recipe, wrapped that
> >in caul fat and smoked. Will send the liver recipe later.
As I say, only the original postor can tell you what that means.
Adamantius
From: lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au (Shayne & Trudi Lynch)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 15:28:30
Subject: SC - sausage questions answered! long
In answer to questions from mark Harris on june 5 ,1997 ,22:16:35
>I'm not sure if I'm willing to try this item or not, but I will show
>my ignorance of cooking and ask some questions:
>1) What do you mean by "poaching" something? In cooking, not hunting.
>2) "others I wrapped in the liver kromeski recipe"? Huh? I thought this
>was another sausage. Do you mean a different casing?
>3) What is "caul fat"? Do you just smear this on the sausage? Or perhaps
>wrap it in some kind of cloth after you smear on the fat?
>4) How would you smoke the sausage? How long? How do you know it has
>smoked long enough?
>Thanks.
> Stefan li Rous
Sorry it's taken so long to answer your questions.
1:Poaching- to quote my trade school text book, this is the subjection
of food to the action of heat in a liquid held as close to boiling point as
possible without there being any perceptible movement of the liquid. For most
purposes, the temperature for poaching is 93-97 degrees centigrade.
(a) The item to be poached must be completely immersed in the liquid
through-out the cooking process.
(b) The process must be started by bringing the article to the boil, then
reducing the heat to stop the boiling movement and allow the poaching to
take place at the correct temperature.
2: Your right. The liver kromeski is a seperate sausage recipe. For the
purpose of the competition I combined the recipes by making the brain
sausage, then half freezing the liver kromeski filling I wrapped it around
the brain sausage,there creating a two coloured sausage. Liver on the
outside and brain on the inside.
3:Caul fat is the fat from around the intestine. It's actually like small
worm like pieces of fat held together by a transparent membrain, so you
wrap up the sausages without the need for an other casing.Probably not
very well explained, sorry.
4: When I made the liver kromeskis by themselves, I made them the size of
my little finger, about 4 cm long and about 1.5 cm wide. I have in my
possesion one of the best aniversary presents any-one has ever given me,
that being a small smoke box.(you can pick them up in hardware stores.)
You sprinkle wood chips on the bottom and light a little container of metho
underneath. It takes 20 minutes for all the metho to burn out, you then leave
the box till it's cold and your sausages are done.For the liver/brain
sausage I gave it twice as long. To know when it's smoked long enough is
really a matter of trial and error and how smoke flavoured you like your
sausages.
Liver kromeskis -Omentata
Omentata are made in this monner:[lightly] fry pork liver,remove skin and
sinews first[2].Crush pepper and rue in a mortar with [a little]broth,then
add liver,pound and mix.This pulp shape into small sausages,wrap each in
caul and laurel leaves and hang them up to be smoked.Whenever you want and
when ready to enjoy then take them out of the smoke,fry them again,and add
gravy.
APICIUS
cooking and dining in imperial Rome
Clean your pork liver by removing any sinews, fat or veins.Slice the liver
up into 5cm thick slices and panfry the liver in butter until it's just
bruwn on the outside,but still red and bloody on the inside. In a mortar
crush pepper and I think I replaced the rue with sage but I can't remember
at the moment.I then blended the liver in the food processor until it was
chopped finely but a little chunky.Then I added the pepper and sage,shaped
them into little sausages, layed a laurel leaf on the top of each one,
wrapped them in caul fat and smoked them in the smoke box for 20 minutes.
You need to let them sit at least overnight (preferably 48 hrs) in the
fridge to let the smoke flavour seap through and blend with the sausage,then
fry them up in a pan like normal sausages and I served mine with a nice
red wine gravy.
Aelfthrythe of Saxony
journeyman to Master Charles of the Park
Shayne Lynch & Trudi Lynch
[AKA] Francois Henri Guyon & "He's like a giant boulder:
AElfthrythe of Saxony I too thick to think and
lynchs at macquarie.matra.com.au I too heavy to move" (anon.)
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 17:02:30 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - smoked sausage and meats
> I don’t think you have quite answered my last question although I do
> appreciate the detailed answer on this question and the others. My
> question may be better stated as: “Since the primary purpose of smoking
> the meat or sausage is to preserve it, how long do I need to smoke it
> before I know it will keep and be safe to eat sometime in the future?
>
> Yes, I know meat is often smoked for taste, but I want to know how long
> do I need to smoke it to preserve it.
> Stefan li Rous
I hate to seem evasive, but there is no simple answer to the question,
so far as I know. Food smoked long enough to preserve it (coated with
smoke tar [creosote?] primarily to drive off insects, and semi-dried,
since even smoke-houses are a bit warmer than the surrounding air, even
without active flames) is considered by many to be inedible. Sir Hugh
Plat's recipe for Polonian Sawsedges says, in his tactful way, that they
will make one "relish a cup of wine". I don't think the modern sense of
taste, used to eating food that's been refrigerated instead of being
smoked fully, is ready for that sort of thing.
Your best bet would be to keep the food in a smoker for flavor
(approximately 2-6 hours) and then finish curing/drying the food in the
smoker without additional wood chips. Or you could use a food
dehydrator.
Smoked hams that are actually treated for storage without (much)
refrigeration are generally cured with the smoke going for only part of
the process, until the hams have lost about half of their original
weight. This "rule" varies according to the ratio of weight to surface
area, the presence of bones, fat, etc. I'm not sure there's any really
effective way to smoke-preserve a liver sausage for, say, Pennsic
conditions, for any significant length of time, and have it still be
edible. I suspect it would rather resemble a rubber eraser.
Your best bet is probably to get a book on charcuterie. My favorite is
Jane Grigson's "The Art of Making Sausages, Pates, and Other
Charcuterie". Another good choice is Jocasta Innes' "The Country
Kitchen", which is an overall book on "putting food up".
Adamantius
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 16:40:13 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - black puddings
Cindy Renfrow wrote:
> Hello! Does anyone have an early recipe for black pudding (a blood
> sausage) made with pork blood?
>
> Sincgiefu
Yum! There's a relatively blow-by-blow account of the annual pig-killing
and charcuterie in Le Menagier de Paris. It includes a recipe for black
puddings which is almost identical to some of the modern French boudins
noir.
Jane Grigson's "The Art of Making Sausages, Pates, and other
Charcuterie" has several good recipes for boudins noir which provide
some useful guidelines for someone trying to redact Le Menagier's
recipe.
Adamantius
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 17:17:39 -0400
Subject: Re: SC - black puddings
Uduido at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 97-06-26 14:19:33 EDT, you write:
> << Jane Grigson's "The Art of Making Sausages, Pat=E9s, and other
> Charcuterie" has several good recipes for boudins noir which provide
> some useful guidelines for someone trying to redact Le Menagier's
> recipe. >>
> Please post the publication details, dates, ISBN, etc. of this book. I have
> Jane's vegetable book and it is my Bible on vegetable preperation. I'm sure
> the book you mention above would be a welcome addition to my cookbook
> collection.
> Lord Ras
"The Art of Making Sausages, Pates, and Other Charcuterie" by Jane
Grigson, pub. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1967, 7th printing 1986.
Paperback. ISBN: 394-73252-9, LoC # 76-13670
Very, very cool. I just wish the recipes weren't usually scaled to make
two pounds of sausage. Otherwise, the best book I've seen on the
subject.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 11:08:42 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Culinary A&S Entries
Mark Harris wrote:
> I'd be interested in hearing more about the dry, smoked sausage and the
> cheese. Did you make these from the raw materials? recipes?
The sausage was as close as I could get to the Polonian Sawsedge in Sir
Hugh Plat's "Delighted for Ladies" (c. 1609), made following the recipe
pretty closely. It is, in fact, a kielbasa. As for the cheese, it was an
English Slipcote, so called because it is a pretty soft cheese inside a
rind of the dried outermost layer, rather than a mold coating. You can
give it a squeeze, and the coat slips off. Recipes for this are found in
numerous sources, ranging from the Penn Family receipt book to Kenelm
Digby to Martha Washington's Cookery Book.
I neither slaughtered the hog nor milked the cow, but otherwise did my
best ; ).
> I don't remember the article, but I will be trying to find it in my not
> very well organised TIs, so you can tell me just to go there. But I would
> like to hear any elaborations or corrections.
Apart from the omission of a good chunk of the notes and bibliography
(the article was pretty long, are you surprised ; ) ? ), there isn't
too much I would add if I were to write it over again. You can find it
on the Web, now that I think of it, on the Ostgardrian Web pages at:
http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/sca/cooking/ppb.html
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 12:01:57 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: Lombard Rice (fwd)
Mark Schuldenfrei wrote:
> While the first line of the original recipe mentions both sausage and
> egg yolks, I have omitted both. I couldn't decide what would be an
> appropriate substitution for cervellate (brain sausage--apparently it
> is available, just not locally)
While cervelles, in culinary French, are indeed brains, I'm almost
positive that cervellate is not brain sausage. It is what they call a
boiling sausage, similar to a cotechino, usually made from a mixture of
pork and veal. There are still several Italian varieties of a sausage
called cervellato available, not to mention saveloy, the French
equivalent. Mostly they're along the lines of a cotto (rather than Genoa
or hard) salami. I suspect, based on some of the (admittedly modern)
recipes I've seen, that the sausage mixture was formed into a ball,
wrapped in some kind of wrinkly membrane like caul fat or calves' tripe,
tied up with string, and boiled, the whole thing looking vaguely
brainlike.
If you've ever seen a zampone, which is an Italian specialty (I've
forgotten the region if I ever knew) consisting of a boneless pig's foot
and hock, kinda like a lady's evening glove, stuffed with sausage meat
and smoked/air dried. The stuff inside is cervellato.
This being one of the few topics the Larousse Gastronomique is pretty
reliable on, you could probably get more info there.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 18:42:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Uduido at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #294
<< remembered to throw my communal offering of Scots beef link sausages >>
Master A,
The recipe fpr Isicia ex Sponddylis occurs right after Isicia de Cerebellis
(Brain Sausage), Book II. Other notes: Sch. sfon dilis; G.V. sphondylis;
List. spongiolis Acording to Listor this is a dish of mushrooms. He is
wrong....etc.
Hope this helps.
Lord Ras
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 10:12:31 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re- Illusion food-
Mark Harris wrote:
> Hmm. I know that I've asked for fish recipes and for sausage recipes but
> this may be taking it a bit far. :-) Although I guess this is interesting
> from an academic standpoint. What do you mean by "a typical Norman seafood
> sausage"? Are you saying that they made sausage-like stuff from fish? Do
> you have a recipe? Does this use spices? Would they have been smoked or
> preserved some other way?
> Stefan li Rous
A typical Norman seafood sausage is, as the expression implies, a
seafood sausage typical of those found in Normandy. Whether or not
William the Conqueror ever ate one, I couldn't say, but there are
numerous dishes found all over Scandinavia, so unless there was some
kind of coincidental parallel culinary evolution, there are likely some
kind of common ancestors of both the fiskeboller and fiskegrot of
Norway, and the boudins de poissons of Normandy, presumably dating back
to before the Norse came to take possession of their territories in
Northern France. This doesn't constitute hard evidence, of course, but
so far it's all we have to go on.
Anyway, Norman seafood sausage is usually made from firm white fish,
like cod or pike, often with scallops or lobster added, usually with
milk-soaked white bread, eggs and cream added to bind it all together.
Mild herbs like chervil are a common flavoring.Usually stuffed into the
standard pork sausage casing, or wrapped in crepin or caul fat, or
sometimes just in buttered paper before poaching. They can be eaten warm
from the poaching liquid, or sauteed or grilled.
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 15:01:43 -0400
From: Knott Deanna <Deanna.Knott at GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: SC - Suasage URL
My entire adventure in sausage making is on-line now.
I'm sorry it is so long. The people who know me know the whole story as it happens. I tried to explain the whole process of my sausage making experience so you all kjnow why I do they things I do. The basic recipes are right at the top. The rest is just the story of the different versions and the results.
The URL is
http://www.geocities.com/athens/academy/9523/sausage.html
This is the only thing of substance on the web page. I have not yet put a link to my cooking section on the index page. It is primitive, but it is under construction and always will be.
Comments and questions may be sent to me at
deanna.knott at gsc.gte.com
Avelina, Lady Keyes
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:08:15 -0400
From: Knott Deanna <Deanna.Knott at GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: SC - period sausage
Have I got a sausage recipe for you!
>>>This is taken from "Platina, on Right Pleasure and Good Health : A Critical
Edition and Translation of De Honesta Voluptate Et Valetudine (Volume 168)" by
Platina, Mary Ella Milham. This book can be ordered by clicking the link shown
above.
The translation of his recipe in this book follows:
If you want good Lucanian sausages, cut the lean and fat meat from the pig at the same time, after all the fibers and sinews have been removed. If the piece of meat is ten pounds, mix in a pound of salt, two ounces of well cleaned fennel, the same amount of half ground pepper, rub in and leave for a day on a litlle table. The next day, stuff into a well cleaned intestine and thus hang it up in smoke.
I made this version twice. The first time was a 15lb. batch (oops!) and the second was a 1 lb. batch for an A&S competition. It is VERY SALTY!! Please note: This sausage is 10% salt by WEIGHT. But, after smoking and salting this stuff should survive nuclear attack.
The complete (mis) adventure in sausage making can be found at:
http://www.geocities.com/athens/academy/9523/cooking.html
Good luck! If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me.
Yours,
Avelina Keyes
East Kingdom
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 19:36:29 -0500
From: allilyn at juno.com (LYN M PARKINSON)
Subject: Re: SC - period sausage
Go to the web site
http://www.geocities.com/athens/academy/9523
That has a sausage recipe, and also a 'polenta' recipe that turns out
like cheesecake. L. Avelina regales us with her sausage making trials.
Allison
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 18:31:00 -0500
From: "Debra Hense" <nickiandme at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: SC - RE: Period Sausage
There is also a compendium of period sausage recipes located at:
http://www.geocities.com/athens/acropolis/4756/index.html
Kateryn de Develyn
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 22:19:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: jeffrey stewart heilveil <heilveil at students.uiuc.edu>
Subject: SC - interesting--sausages
I was wandering in and amongst the sausage recipes and found (to no great
shock) two sausages with the same name and vast differences. Apicius (as
quoted on Kateryn de Develyn's homepage) says that lucanian sausages are
made with "pepper, cumin, savory, rue, parsley, condiment, laurel berries
and broth" as well as "whole pepper and nuts." Platina, on the other
hand, as we have recently been told has lucanian sausages as salt, fennel,
and pepper. It would seem that these sausages would taste nothing alike.
I suppose they are "lucanian" due to geographic origin (though I don't
know where they would be from), but I don't know. Thoughts about the
differences and how Apicius' might taste?
Bogdan din Brasov
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 10:52:46 SAST-2
From: "Ian van Tets" <IVANTETS at botzoo.uct.ac.za>
Subject: SC - Chawettys, lettuce, dried meats
My lord husband is suggesting that, since there has been a small
amount of discussion about dried meats, I should recommend to you a
booklet published here in South Africa on this topic. This is not
least because the Rand has now dropped from being worth 2 flat rocks
to only being worth one and a half, so people shouldn't find the book
too expensive.
It is called
Make your own Biltong and Droewors: Including sausages, and cured
and smoked meats. (Struik, Cape Town, 1991). ISBN 1 86825 289 2.
The publisher's address is: Struik Publishers Pty Ltd, Cornelis
Struik House, 80 McKenzie Street, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa.
Directions are very clear, with _pictures_ of every step of the way.
It deals with dried sausages and meat, smoked sausages and meat,
curing without drying or smoking, and fun extras like pastrami.
Quantities are all metric, terms for the most part English (but then
most of you know what 'grill' means anyway). It also has one or two
nice ideas for rescuing stuff you think you've oversalted or wrecked
in some other way.
Cairistiona
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 17:57:44 -0400
From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)
Subject: SC - sausage recipe
Hello! Someone was looking for sausage recipes. I just ran across this in
Plat's Delights for Ladies, 1609:
12. To make a Polonian sausedge.
Take the fillers of a hog: chop them very small with a handfull of red
Sage: season it hot with ginger and pepper, and then put it into a great
sheep's gut: then let it lie three nights in brine: then boile it, and
hang it vp in a chimney where fire is vsually kept: and these sawsedges
will last a whole yeere. They are good for sallades, or to garnish boiled
meates, or to make one rellish a cup of wine.
Cindy/Sincgiefu
renfrow at skylands.net
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:15:31 -0400
From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Pastrami
Knott, Deanna wrote:
> Does anyone have documentation for pastrami in period?
Not as such, but it appears likely to have been brought to places like
Northeastern Italy and Yugoslavia (whatever they were calling these places at
the time) by the Turks, whose own version is a salt-cured and air-dried beef
product (a bit liked spiced beef prosciutto) called basturma.
Nowadays basturma is heavily coated with paprika and what tastes to me like
ground celery seed, or possibly lovage.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:48:55 -0400
From: "Knott, Deanna" <Deanna.Knott at GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: SC - Re:looking for recipe
Linda was looking for a recipe for liver sausage.
There are a couple in Platina. I can post them either tonight or tomorrow
morning if you like. I have been wanting to try one of the recipes myself
with chicken liver.
Avelina Keyes
Du Pont Pursuivant
Barony of the Bridge
East Kingdom
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 98 08:59:03 -0600
From: Dottie Elliott <difirenze at usa.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Sausage
When using pork butt, I don't add any extra fat because it seems to have
enough fat as is.
Clarissa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 13:07:06 -0600
From: Melissa Martines <mmartines at brighthorizons.com>
Subject: SC - Sausage/Powder Douce
Just wanted to thank everyone who responded to help me with my questions
about sausage and powder douce. This list is definitely a great resource :)
The smoked sausages came out wonderful (for those interested, I ended up
using 8 lbs of pork shoulder to 2.5 lbs lard and bacon fat) if a little bit
salty. Plastic coke bottles work wonderfully as disposable sausage
stuffers/funnels if anyone else out there is thinking of doing some sausage
stuffing.
Morgan MacBride
Meridies
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:36:51 -0700 (MST)
From: grasse at mscd.edu
Subject: SC - Wanted: Sausage recipe suggestions
Thank you so much for responding Lord Stefan... you were the only nibble I got.
I had already checked the Floral... files... (lots of information there) as
well as some other on line cookbooks.
I ended up using the Bratwurst recipe out of Sabine Welserin - cutting the
proportions in 1/2 (made plenty for the group I was feeding) and cutting
the bacon back even further (shouldn't have, they were a little dry - but I
have trouble with too much fat and was afraid of the fat in a whole pound
of bacon.) seasoned with salt, pepper and LOTS of Marjoram. It boiled up
just fine, and a few reserved raw sausages ended up getting pan-fried for
supper and were great that way too.
I also made "Haggis-oids" (Oids because there was no lung to be found, no
pork innards to be found at this time, and no sheep innards found (ever))
so I made do with: 1 lb beef heart, 1/2 lb beef liver, some fresh beef and
fresh beef fat, 1 large onion, and 1 cup toasted oats (used Quaker whole
(not quick) oats and ran them through the grinder). Seasoned with nutmeg,
salt, and pepper (not enough pepper...) and stuffed them into pork casings
(because that was all I could get.) They turned out well and some got
eaten - (got some feedback - all positive).
For the record, I have the Kitchen aid with the meatgrinder/sausage stuffer
attachment... I love it for this sort of thing but the next time I teach an
SCA sausage class the stuffing portion will be hands-on, using 3 liter
pop-bottle top funnels - THANKS to the poster for the budget conscious
suggestion.
Gwen Cat
Carthe
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 18:12:09 EST
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: Organ meats (was SC - Hedgehogs)
pndarvis at execpc.com writes:
<< Ras, you stated you added organ meats to your vension sausage, did it add
to the consistancy for better or worse? how about flavor? >>
It's hard to say whether it was better or worse. I thought it was good. :-)
Here's my recipe:
Venison Sausage
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ingredients
15 pounds venison, cut into chunks and strips
7 pounds lean ground pork
1 whole deer liver, fried until half done
1 whole deer heart, cut into chunks
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons white pepper, ground
1 1/2 cups oatmeal
3 medium onions, cut into eigths
2 tablespoon nutmeg, ground
4 tablespoons dried sage
2 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon Garlic powder
1 tablespoon mace, ground
1 tablespoon Ginger, ground
3 tablespoons mustard seed, ground
1/2 cup salt
1 quart cold water
3 Eggs
Run venison, liver, heart and onions through the grinder twice. Mix all the
ingredients together until very well blended.Run through the grinder again
with sausage funnel attached, filling casings. Make links in stuffed casings
every 4 inches.
In a large pan heat 2 or 3 inches of water to about 175 deg. Immerse sausages
in water. and cook until internal temperatures reach 150 deg F. Drain. Cut
links apart. Cool. Package and store in the refrigerator or freeze until
ready to use.
Ras
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 23:34:05 EST
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Re: link sausage
him at gte.net writes:
<< Is that fully cooked or do they need to be cooked some more?? >>
I haven't tried preparing them for a meal yet. I will most likely simmer them
in water until they are cooked through when I use them at the event. The
recipe is not period but a concoction of my own. I initially tested the mixture
by raking a snall amount of the sausage mixture and formed it into a patty
which I fried. In that state it was good. From the odor of the finished
product, I have no reason to believe that the final cooked sausages will not
taste equally good. I'll know for sure this coming Christmas Eve when I will
be taking some as a dish to pass at the employee's pot luck at work. :-)
Ras
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:38:14 -0700 (MST)
From: grasse at mscd.edu
Subject: re: SC - Bratwurst - Sabine Welserin style
Zoe Valonin asked:
>How did the Sausage do? Do you have your [redaction] of it? or what did you
>use? please do share!!!
IMHO The sausage went fine, though I would welcome feedback from any of the
gentles who sampled it at the War practice.
I pretty directly used the redaction created by Valoise Armstrong and
webbed by His Grace at
http://www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html
It is recipe # 25. and I use it as written, seasoning with salt, pepper,
and lots of marjoram. Before you stuff your casings fry a spoonful and
taste for seasoning. If you can't access the web page I will be happy to
post the recipe, but the credit goes to Valoise!
I used hog casings, and made "sample size" 1" links. Since the demo was
on cauldron cooking we boiled the sausages, but I have also fried them,
grilled them - they are yummy in every way. Next time I smoke a pork-loin
I will hang a string in the smoker and will see how that turns out.
Gwen-Cat
Caerthe
Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 11:05:32 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Venison sausage-update
LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> I thought you might want to know that the Venison sasage experiment was a
> success. I served them at 12th Night with the other meats by boiling them for
> 15 mins. and serving them with a mustard horseradish sauce on the side. Out of
> 4 dozen sausages there were 2 left in the dish. :-)
Yeah, there's something about venison sausage. It has all the flavor of
venison, but the pork element pretty much assures tenderness and
moistness if done correctly.
I served some at an EK 12th Night three years ago, and I think I
received the ultimate dubious, backhanded compliment in connection with
them. We got back a very small amount of leftovers (there was a _lot_ of
other food, like the cuminade de poissons which had maybe 15% return to
the kitchen, to be scooped up almost immediately by people lying in wait
for such an eventuality).
Anyway, the autocrat (my Viceroy) had asked me to make up some extra
venison sausage, I think it was five pounds, for his own use (he paid
for the ingredients, and since the butcher actually made them from my
recipe, it was no additional effort). Anyway, I cooked them on site, so
they'd just need to be reheated, and left them in the kitchen, labelled
as reserved, do not touch upon pain of slow death, etc. I left the
kitchen to walk around a bit, get some air, some feedback, that sort of
thing.
I can't help but laugh, although what I'm about to say is deplorable.
Somebody stole the sausages.
Adamantius
Østgardr, East
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:50:55 -0700 (MST)
From: grasse at mscd.edu
Subject: re: SC - Period Sausages
The following sausage recipe is from Valoise Armstrongs translation of the
Sabine Welsering cookbook which is webbed at
http://www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html#fn1
25 If you would make good bratwurst
Take four pounds of pork and four pounds of beef and chop it finely. After
that mix with it two pounds of bacon and chop it together and pour approximately
one quart of water on it. Also add salt and pepper thereto, however you like to
eat it, or if you would like to have some good herbs, you could take some
sage and some marjoram, then you have good bratwurst.
I have made this and it is very good - just remember to check your
seasoning before you stuff the casings. (they can come out a bit bland) I
have boiled and fried them - yummy both ways.
There are also several sausage recipes in Marx Rumpolt (who is not at the
office with me.) Most contain a single meat and some bacon chopped
together and seasoned. Of course this is all German, but if you are
interested in a specific meat made into sausage please let me know. I will
be happy to have another excuse to rummage through the pages of my favorite
x-mas goody.
Gwen-Cat
Caerthe, Outlands
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:30:09 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Period Sausages
Here's another; my redaction of Sir Hugh Plat's Polonian Sawsedges.
Please excuse the format. The recipe, documentation and notes are pretty
well stirred together. At least the quantities are a bit more managable:
1) Polonian Sausage
"12. To make a Polonian sawsedge. Take the fillers of a hog: chop them
very small with a handful of red Sage: season it hot with ginger and
pepper, and then put it into a great sheep's gut: then let it lie three nights
in brine: then boile it, and hang it up in a chimney where fire is usually
kept: and these sawsedges will last a whole yeere. They are good for
sallades, or to garnish boiled meats, or to make one relish a cup of
wine." [1]
First off, why is this sausage Polonian? Based on the seasoning and
smoking method, it appears to be an Englishman's approximation of the
type of large smoked sausage found in the much-disputed lands
northeast of Germany. This is, I believe, a Polska krajana
or kielbasa.
The term "fillers" is probably a corruption of fillets, which in medieval
cookery parlance are muscles in each of the hog's inner thighs;
corresponding to, in a steer, what we now call the eye rounds. In pork
butcher's jargon it's just part of the hams. Today the fillets of the hog
are the tenderloins, which would make unpleasantly dry and tasteless
sausage.
On a full-grown hog, the combined weight of the fillets is a bit under
five pounds or so. Lacking the facilities, as well as the freshly killed
hog, to do my own butchering, I used an equal weight of pork shoulder
butt or blade roast, which is what my rather expensive and
extremely competent butcher makes his sweet Italian sausage out of.
The handful of red sage wasn't a problem. Salvia officinalis purpurea is
known in Britain as red sage, and, although perfectly edible, is now
primarily an ornamental plant. Here it's plain old purple sage, á la Zane
Grey, and was available fresh at the farmer's market.
For quantities on pepper and ginger, I consulted my favorite modern
sausage recipe, and favorite Chinese cookbook, respectively, and
figured on three tablespoons of cracked peppercorns and three
tablespoons of grated fresh ginger.
Large mutton casings were unavailable. Lamb casings, such as you find
in frankfurters, were inappropriate. I chose pork casings because they
were easiest to find, and were also small enough to dry quickly, without
affecting the flavor of the final product.
My brine was more than just salt water; I figured a household making
sausage would also be curing other pork products, and would have an
all-purpose brine crock on hand all year round. The brines in various
brawn recipes, for instance, are pretty involved, including not only salt
but sugar and saltpeter, as well as a wide variety of herbs and spices. In
most cases the saltpeter would occur naturally as an impurity present in
the commonly mined salt of Northern Europe. The brine recipe I settled
on was a modern English pork pickle, and included salt, sugar,
saltpeter, juniper berries, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, nutmeg, and
cloves [2]. Period brine recipes are, for the most part, found only in
very late sources, and don't differ significantly from modern recipes,
anyway.
Whether the pickled sausage is boiled until fully cooked is debatable; it
may be simply blanched to tighten up the casing so it doesn't burst in
the smoking process. Dried raw sausages are still common in
Continental Europe, but not in England, so I simmered the sausages to
the minimum safe temperature (140° F). Not having a chimney
operating year-round, I warm-smoked the rings for about two hours
over hickory chips. Apple or oak would have been better, but hickory
was what I happened to have. I then finished the drying process in an
electric food dehydrator, largely for safety considerations, given the
weather at the time. I suspect sausages smoked over several months
would be quite overpowering, and a bite or two would definitely make
one relish that cup of wine.
BTW, you'll find more sausage recipes in, among other sources, Apicius
(1st-2nd century C.E.), Le Menagier de Paris (~1390 C.E.), Platina's "De
Honesta Voluptate et Valetudinae" (~1475?), Gervase Markham's "The
English Houswife" (1615 C.E.), and "The Closet of the Eminently Learned
Sir Kenelm Digby, Knight, Opened" (1669 C.E.). Note that the last named
is the _short_ title of this work, which is why we usually just call it
Digby.
Adamantius
Østgardr, East
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:08:33 -0600
From: "Debra Hense" <nickiandme at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: SC - Period Sausage Recipes
I have a site out on the web which lists many, many period sausage recipes.
(Most of these recipes are not redacted although there is discussion about
the ingredients.) It is located at:
http:\\www.geocities.com\athens\acropolis\4756\
In the contents table on the left side of the page, is an entry labeled
sausages. This will take you into a booklet which was published 3 or 4
years ago. I am currently in the process of updating and adding much new
information for a new booklet to be published later this year.
Kateryn de Develyn
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 22:24:42 -0500
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Period Sausages
At 7:43 AM -0500 1/15/99, Margo Farnsworth wrote:
> Does anyone know of a source for period sausage recipies?
I have a Spanish recipe for one type of sausage; I do not know how
useful it will be for a Scottish feast.
from: "Libro del Arte de Cozina" (Spanish, 1599)
"Salchicas for Summer"
[note: salchicas are a particular kind of suasage.]
Take a piece of veal, from the shoulder or the leg, and if it were
from the shoulder, remove those nerves, and chop the veal very well
with a good piece of bacon, and chop it all together, and take your
sheep intestines and wash them very well with your water and salt,
and season the meat very well with pepper, ginger and nutmeg,
and little clove, because it is bitter, and a little fennel, breaking it,
and first clean it, and cast it into this same meat, and stuff it inside
the intestines, and tie them like salchicas, and then roast them
and garnish them with small boneless loins of mutton upon a sop,
or however the official desires.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:47:52 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - My latest feast (and a few comments)
Stefan li Rous wrote:
> Did you actually make the salami? If so, I'd love to hear more details.
> We've talked about various sausages before, but I'm not really sure
> how salami differs. It is air dried perhaps?
Yes, normally. Its distinctive flavor is partly the result of bacterial
action, which modern charcuterers usually introduce artificially as
cultures. But yes, it's normally air-dried after having lost a fair
amount if its water mass through salt-induced osmosis (it's too early in
the morning for me to recall the special name for the osmosis of water).
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 21:15:39 EDT
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Turkish Breakfast - Suggestions Anyone?
mbrunzie at dba-sw.com writes:
<< Sausages are made from pig, which are strictly _haram_ >>
IIRC, there are recipes for lamb mutton and chicken sausages in al-Andalusia
and al-Baghdadi. Here is the redaction I used at my recent medieval middle
eastern feast.
Dish of Chicken or Whatever Meat You Please
If it is tender, take the flesh of the breast of the hen or partridge or the
flesh of the thighs and grind it up very vigorously, and remove the tendons
and grind with the meat almonds, walnuts, and pinenuts until completely
mixed, throw in pepper, caraway, cinnamon, lavender, in the required
quantity, a little honey and eggs, beat all together until it becomes one
substance, then make with this what looks like an 'usba' made of lamb innards
and put it in a lamb skin or sheep skin and put it on a heated skewer and
cook slowly over a fire of hot coals until it is browned, then remove it and
eat it, if you wish with murri and if you wish with mustard, if God so
wills.- from 'An Andalusian Cookbook; A Collection of Medieval and
Renaissance Cookbooks, Vol. II; pg. A-35. Duke Sir Cariadoc of the Bow.
Redaction by al-Sayyid A'aql ibn Rashid al-Zib, AoA, OSyc
Copyright c 1999 L. J. Spencer, Jr. Williamsport, PA
2 LB Boneless chicken breast or thighs
2 1/2 oz. Almonds
2 1/2 oz. Walnuts
2 T. Pinenuts
1 tsp. Caraway seed, ground
1/2 tsp. Black pepper, ground
1/2 tsp. Lavender, dried and crushed
2 T Honey
2 Eggs
Sausage casings (see Note*)
Skewers
Grind chicken on coarse. Mix almonds, walnuts, pinenuts, caraway, pepper,
lavender, honey and eggs into chicken. Grind again with medium blade. Then
force into sausage casings tying off into links.
Grill on skewers over charcoal until browned and cooked through. Serve with
murri or mustard. Serves 8.
(NOTE: The original clearly was enclosed in a bag of skin and roasted whole.
I chose to use sausage casing to gain better portion control and because it
was readily available. There are examples of sausages in the original
manuscripts.)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 01:39:57 +0200
From: "ana l. valdes" <agora at algonet.se>
Subject: SC - sausages
Here comes some recipes of traditional sausages or "chorizos", taken
from Spanish and South American recipes. I can guess in SA they are
definitive OUP, since the Aztecas or Incas had not pigs. But in Spain
they were used along the Middle Age.
Take the innards of the pig (heart, liver, lungs, some fat)
Cut it all in small pieces
Add a lot of salt
Add sweet pimiento, spicy pimiento, oregan, several cloves of garlic, a
little part of water
Let it be two or three days
Knead it twÃce every day
If its to dry, add more water
Take off the garlic cloves and put the hole into the tripe
Hang it over the fire and let the smoke dry it
Pigblood
Cooked Rice
Onions
Garlic
Spices (Peppar, Cummin)
Pigmeat
Fry the onions and the garlic in some oil
Fry the meat until brown, cut in small pieces
Mix with the cooked rice
Add spices
Mix with the pigblood until it thickens
When you got a kind of bland "dough", put into tripes and close them at
the extremes
Sweet Bloodsausage
Pigblood
Breadcrumbs
Cloves
Raisins
Pinenuts
Wine
Pigmeat
Fry the meat and mash it down
Mash the cloves and the pinenuts
Cut the raisins in small parts
Mix with the breadcrumbs
Add the wine
Put into tripes
Close in each extreme
I apologize if the translation is rough, I have very little idea how to
translate the different parts of a pig, and all the recipes are written
in Spanish dialects, not in castillan.
Ana
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:57:52 +0200
From: "ana l. valdes" <agora at algonet.se>
Subject: SC - more homemade sausages
Homemade salami
Lean meat from a pig fed with vegetables and herbs
Fat from the same pig, proportion 5 procent for 100 grams
Salt, 25 grs for each kilo of the mixture
Garlic, mashed in the mortar, 10 grs for each kilo of the mixture
Black peppar corns, 30 grs for each kilo
With a sharp knife cut the meat and the fat in smallest possible pieces
Add the spices and let rest for 20 hours
Put into thick tripe
Homemade chorizo
Lean meat from pig fed with vegetables and seeds
Fat from the same pig, 20 procent for each 100 grms
Salt, 25 grms for each kilo of the mixture
Crushed sweet peppar, 3 grams for each kilo of mixture
Crushed or mashed garlic, 10 grs for each kilo of the mixture
With a sharp knife cut all in pieces, (but not so small as you did when
you cut salami)
Dont use a machine
Knead the meat with all other ingredients in a bowl of clay or wood, not
of metal
When the mixture is ready, take a part and fry in a pan, to taste the
quality of spicing
Let it rest 18 or 20 hours
Put into thin tripes, bind them in a horseshoe form
Ana
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 11:35:50 EDT
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - more homemade sausages-OOP
agora at algonet.se writes:
<< Lean meat from pig fed with vegetables and seeds
Fat from the same pig, 20 percent for each 100 grams >>
According to the Anthropologist's Cookbook, use of the shoulder meat when
making Chorizos would be the ideal as it contains just about the right
proportion of fat to lean thus eliminating the need for added fat.
Ras
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 20:37:26 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Chorizos (was Re: SC - Sausages from the Danish cookbook)
And it came to pass on 3 Sep 99,, that Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir wrote:
> BTW, I was wondering about something: What exactly defines a chorizo
> sausage? Is any Spanish/Portuguese/Latin American sausage a chorizio, or
> is the term only used for certain types? And if so, which? I thought
> chorizos always included some capsicum peppers - if not chilies, then at
> least some sweet paprika/pimiento - but judging from Ana´s recipes, this
> is not the case.
>
> Nanna
Here are the definitions (translated) that I found in two Spanish
dictionaries:
Diccionario de Autoridades (1726-1739) -- A piece cut from intestine
stuffed with chopped meat, usually from pork, marinated and with
spices, which is cured with smoke so that it will last.
Diccionario Usual (1992) -- A piece cut from intestine full of meat,
usually from pork, chopped and marinated, which is cured with smoke.
_The Heritage of Spanish Cooking_ by Rios and March says that
chorizo was invented following the importation of New World peppers to
Spain, and that paprika is its defining ingredient, which gives it its
characteristic color.
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 20:56:45 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: Chorizos (was Re: SC - Sausages from the Danish cookbook)
Robin Carroll-Mann wrote:
> Here are the definitions (translated) that I found in two Spanish
> dictionaries:
>
> Diccionario de Autoridades (1726-1739) -- A piece cut from intestine
> stuffed with chopped meat, usually from pork, marinated and with
> spices, which is cured with smoke so that it will last.
>
> Diccionario Usual (1992) -- A piece cut from intestine full of meat,
> usually from pork, chopped and marinated, which is cured with smoke.
>
> _The Heritage of Spanish Cooking_ by Rios and March says that
> chorizo was invented following the importation of New World peppers to
> Spain, and that paprika is its defining ingredient, which gives it its
> characteristic color.
Garlic would also appear to be an essential in most cases.
I'm wondering, though, if another original typifying factor (and one
which may since have been lost, as per the example that follows) was a
specific piece or part of intestine, stuffed in a particular way. For
example, French saucisson andouille and andouillettes were originally
made from either rolled tripe or intestine threaded in and out of itself
repeatedly, until it was, essentially, an intestine stuffed with itself.
BTW, those are heavily spiced, usually with paprika and garlic, among
others, and smoked.
In general, though, chorizo seem to quite regionally variant, both in
style and in quality. In general the Mexican chorizo I've seen have been
pretty awful, usually either packed in rendered lard (which I bet would
be terrific for frying potatoes!) or even canned like a sort of spicy
dog food, while Spanish and South American ones, particularly Argentine,
are quite firm and of excellent quality. Of course my experience is with
imported articles or locally made products theoretically adhering to
style, so it might be hard to tell.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:33:39 EDT
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: Chorizos (was Re: SC - Sausages from the Danish cookbook)
troy at asan.com writes:
<< Garlic would also appear to be an essential in most cases. >>
Correct. For 30 lb. shoulder meat use 7 oz (200 grams) salt, 9 oz (290 grams)
Spanish or Hungarian paprika, 2 heaped tblsp Oregano and 3 1/2 oz (100 grams)
garlic, crushed. 2-4 oz (50-100 grams) cayenne and 10-12 oz dry anise are
listed as optional.
(Source: The Anthropologists' Cookbook)
Ras
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:39:52 -0400
From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - more homemade sausages
And it came to pass on 2 Sep 99,, that LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> This is all I could come up with. It is from Miriam-Webster.
>
> cho*ri*zo (noun), plural -zos
>
> [Spanish]
>
> First appeared 1846
That's peculiar. I wonder where they got their information. I quoted a
dictionary definition of "chorizo" from an early 18th century Spanish
dictionary. Furthermore, the definition was followed by two quotes from
Spanish literature which used the term. One quote was from an author
who lived 1603-1676. The other was from a novel written cerca 1599-
1604. Perhaps "first appeared" means that it appeared in an English-
language work in 1846?
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:37:29 GMT
From: kerric at pobox.alaska.net (Kerri Canepa)
Subject: Re: SC - Recipe request for trotters
Lucretiza wrote:
>Whilst excavating in my chest freezer a couple of days ago, I came across
>some pig's trotters which I bought for goodness knows what reason. But
>they're there, so I may as well use them. Can anyone think of any recipes,
>preferably period, for these? Failing that, anything you've found tasty.
>
>Al Vostro e al Servizio del Sogno
>Lucretzia
If you feel up to making something like salami, I'd suggest you try your hand at
zampone, which is a meat mixture stuffed into a pig's lower leg. This is what
information I have which is out of Traditional Italian Food by Laura Busini
Birch.
zampone - Zampone is very similar to cotechino, but the meat mixture is stuffed
into a pig's leg.
cotechino - ...Cotechino looks like a small salame, but it is very different, in
the fact that the main ingredient in its making is the cotica or cotenna (skin)
of the pig. The skin is put through a mincer a couple of times, then mixed with
some lard and the cheapest cuts from the pig, and all minced together. It is
preserved with salt, pepper and spices in gut. Cotechino has to be boiled and is
eaten hot.
I had zampone while in Italy and it's quite yummy.
Kerri
Cedrin Etainnighean, OL
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:10:14 -0400
From: "Daniel Phelps" <phelpsd at gate.net>
Subject: SC - Re: OOP Sausage
Phlip Wrote:
>Ana, as far as I'm concerned, speak of sausages to your heart's content. I'm
>still learning about them, and as far as I'm concerned, the more information
>I have, in or OOP, the better.
In that case try "The Savory Sausage, A Culinary Tour Around the World" by
Linda Merinoff, 1987, Poseidon Press
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:50:34 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sausages
LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> Is there anyone on this list who actually lives in England and either makes
> or purchases various English sausages who can shine light on the various
> types that are available in Britain? I suspect that not all sausages made in
> England can be described in the same way. Is there a specific sausage that is
> called by the name 'English' sausage (e.g., containing slimy stuff) in the
> same manner that we have 'Italian' sausage (e.g., with fennel) or 'Polish'
> sausage (e.g., kielbasi)?
According to various sources such as the Jocasta Innes book about food
preservation and Jane Grigson's "Art of Making Sausages, PatÈs, and
other Charcuterie", what most people are talking about when they say
"English Sausage" is the banger, the English version of the chipolata.
They tend to be rather mildly spiced with pepper, and sometimes nutmeg,
with an extremely fine grind (recipes often instruct the cook to grind
the meat two or three times) and are often bulked out to various extents
with cracker crumbs generally known as "rusk". Good-quality bangers are
usually stuffed into small lamb casings, have little or no rusk, and are
at least noticably flavored with the spices. Bad-quality bangers (and
unfortunately many people are familiar only with this type, just as some
people are only familiar with the McDonald's hamburger) are stuffed into
collagen casings which burst into rubbery strands in cooking, are
utterly bland, and and are vaguely reminiscent of modelling clay or
Silly Putty. As with hamburgers, there's a broad range of quality
available, and many people whose first exposure was a bad experience
aren't inclined to arrange a second exposure. A shame.
I've had imported commercial bangers which were okay, and some bad ones,
too. The best ones I've had were made locally by butchers catering to
immigrants from the English-Speaking Banger Belt ; ), or homemade.
On a tangential note...
I should reiterate my position that I have great respect for the
cuisines of the British Isles, but I feel that until the last ten years
or so, many of its greatest practitioners have been outside the British
Isles. It's been said that Britain's legendary reputation for mediocre
or downright bad food (a reputation not really deserved) is the result
of tolerance for extremely low standards due to institutional
(especially public school) cookery and food rationing that went on
during, and for years after, the Second World War. There are still
survivors of entire generations who'd forgotten what good food tasted
like. This is not a problem that can be solved overnight: it took about
seventy-five years to create it, and people are working on solving it.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 18:02:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sausages
> > That would probably be Linguica.
> >
> Yup That's the stuff. Anyone know somebody
> who ships? I've never seen it in Norman OK. Margarite
Linguica or Chourico can be ordered over the Web.
Here are several websites:
Furtado's in Fall River MA
http://www.chourico.com/html/frameset.htm
or call 1-800-845-4800
Garpar's
384 Faunce Corner Rd
North Dartmouth MA 02747
or call 1-800-542-2038
Mello's Portuguese Foods
also MA
or call 1-888-593-2038
I have never ordered anything from these places. I
don't know how good or bad they are.
Huette
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:43:22 -0000
From: Christina Nevin <cnevin at caci.co.uk>
Subject: SC - Sausages
Ras asked:
Is there anyone on this list who actually lives in England and either makes
or purchases various English sausages who can shine light on the various
types that are available in Britain? I suspect that not all sausages made in
England can be described in the same way. Is there a specific
sausage that is called by the name 'English' sausage (e.g., containing slimy
stuff) in the same manner that we have 'Italian' sausage (e.g., with fennel) or
'Polish' sausage (e.g., kielbasi)?
The traditional type of sausages you buy in the supermarket here are
"Cumberland" and "Lincolnshire", both of which are lovely, and the most
commonly used for English breakfasts (I have a pack in the freezer myself
for weekends with guests).
On the whole I have been very impressed with the quality of sausages in the
UK. I have an English friend who lives in Auckland, NZ (where I grew up) who
refuses to eat New Zealand sausages because they're garbage, and now I've
lived here, I must say I agree with him.
There is a chain of shops in London which sell only sausages - everything
from Wild Boar & Fennel, Pheasant and Port, Welsh Lamb & Leek, Hot Algerian,
German, South African, non-pork, vegetarian, etc etc. It's a wonderful
place, and my freezer always does well out of it when I visit! So next time
any of you visit London, I shall be happy to feed you excellent English-made
sausages...
Al Servizio Vostro, e del Sogno
Lucretzia
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Lady Lucrezia-Isabella di Freccia | mka Tina Nevin
Thamesreach Shire, The Isles, Drachenwald | London, UK
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:48:59 +1100
From: Robyn.Hodgkin at affa.gov.au
Subject: RE: SC - Sausages
We solved the problem of decent sausages for a Principality event recently.
I was determined that lunch on the Sunday was going to be really really
easy. There were 250 people eating, and it was a war day, so I wanted food
that was easy to cook, easy to hold and easy to eat. After much
negotiation with my fellow food steward, we agreed sausages and bread seemed
like the perfect solution.
We had a few different options. We could attempt to hand make that many
sausages (blow that for a game of soldiers) or we could get them
commercially made. I approached a local sausage manufacturer. After some
discussion they were quite keen to have a go at some exotic sausages.
Drake and I talked about if for a while and decided that much as we would
like to make the sausages completely from the period recipe, that using the
commercial sausage mince as a base was the best idea. This was in part due
to the preservatives that are in modern sausage mince, with that much raw
meat around and it being a camping event, we decided that it was a healthier
idea to use the commercial mince.
We experimented one night, using a couple of knobs of sausage mince and my
pan scales for herbs. We made little batches of mixture and fried them as
patties. They were all very good, but eventually we decided on the ones we
would use. Drake then made up packets of the appropriate amounts of herbs
and gave them to the manufacturer
In the end we had three different varieties of sausages which we served with
some great sauces that Drake whipped up. A highly herbed sausage, a
mace/nutmeggy tasting one and a bitter orange flavoured one. All three were
scrumptious and very popular with all those at the event. The cost was
tiny, with the sausages costing us, as I recall, just $3 a kilo (about
$1.50US).
Kiriel
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:36:48 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sausages
Elysant at aol.com wrote:
> What about Savaloy (sp?) Sausages? Where do they come from?
>
> Elysant
Saveloy is the French version of the Italian "boiling sausage" known as
cervelat, probably for its shape, size, and wrapping all contributing to
its looking somewhat like a brain (it's frequently a big oblate-spheroid
thingy wrapped in caul fat and then in string). Interestingly enough,
this is almost nothing at all like the cervelatto sold in
Italian-American butcher shops, which is usually a veal and sometimes
lamb version of the basic thin pork luganica. Real cervelat is also the
traditional meat stuffing for a zampone, the boned, cured, stuffed and
then boiled pig's-foot-and-hock. For Americans a reasonably close
substitute for cervelat or saveloy (assuming saveloy in Britain is the
same as saveloy elsewhere) is that cooked salami. Not hard or genoa
salami, the softer, moister kind.
I seem to recall there's a period recipe for a sausage known as
zervellat in Sabina Welserin's kochbuch.
Adamantius
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 02:22:23 -0800 (PST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?rachel=20mccormack?= <rachel_lothian at yahoo.com>
Subject: SC - black sausage
Lord Stefan li Rous said:
<What are "black" sausages? Those made with blood?>
Yep. They're called black pudding in Britain, I can't
remember the name in French and they're called
morcilla here. In Burgos in Castille they're made with
rice, in Murcia with onions and in Valencia with pine
nuts. They are delicious.
Rachel McCormack
Barcelona, Spain.
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:36:14 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - black sausage
rachel mccormack wrote:
> Lord Stefan li Rous said: <What are "black" sausages?
> Those made with blood?>
> Yep. They're called black pudding in Britain, I can't
> remember the name in French and they're called
> morcilla here. In Burgos in Castille they're made with
> rice, in Murcia with onions and in Valencia with pine
> nuts. They are delicious.
> Rachel McCormack
> Barcelona, Spain.
The French version would be boudin noir, and as with morcilla, there are
numerous local variants, including diverse ingredients such as cream,
apples, onions, raisins and degrees of added filler such as rice,
breadcrumbs, etc. Many French versions have no starchy filler at all, though.
The boudin recipe in Le Menagier is still pretty typical for a French
boudin noir.
The Spanish ones sound lovely, though. Around where I live, unless I go
out of my way to some of the upscale specialty markets such as Bean and
Beluga, a.k.a. Dean and DeLucca, where nearly anything can end up in a
casing, what I tend to find are British/Irish versions (often pretty
stodgy and industrial with too many breadcrumbs, but not inedible),
German ones which are perfectly fine (and with the added advantage of
being good hot or cold, including straight from the butcher's paper,
sliced with or without mustard), and various Mexican and South American
versions of morcilla which seem to include ground muscle meat and fat in
addition to blood, rice, onions, sometimes raisins or currants, and
often a touch of hot pepper. Any or all of these are excellent with
sauteed, or floured and fried, apple and onion rings. And, of course,
that geat French invention (see earlier post on rolling pins),
machepatetose.
Adamantius
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 19:34:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Carrollmann <harper at idt.net>
Subject: Re: SC - A New Challenge! help with Spanish medieval food, please
Incidently, if anyone else knows Spanish, and would like to try their hand
at translation, let me assure you that it's not that difficult. Some
texts are harder than others, but cookbooks tend to have limited
vocabularies and simple language. Here, for instance, is a recipe for
chorizo sausages from the _Manual de Mugeres_:
Receta para hacer chorizos
Carne de puerco magra y gorda picada, harina muy cernida, ajos
mondados, clavos molidos, vino blanco, sal la que fuere menester. Amasarlo
todo con el vino y despues de masado, dejarlo en un vaso cubierto un dia
natural. Y despues henchir las tripas de vaca o puerco, cual quisieredes,
de esta masa y ponerlas a secar al humo.
Brighid ni Chiarain
Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 18:25:59 +0200
From: "Cindy M. Renfrow" <cindy at thousandeggs.com>
Subject: SC - meat
Hello! I've just been flipping through "Waste Not, Want Not" and came
across this statement by Jennifer Stead in the chapter 'Necessities and
Luxuries: Food Preservation from the Elizabethan to the Georgian Era', p.
75:
"There was no need [in England] to make a variety of dried sausages as, for
instance, were made in north-west Germany where fresh meat was only eaten
on the four killing days in each year. The British were amply supplied
with, and preferred, fresh meat and fresh sausages..."
Is it true that in north-west Germany fresh meat was only eaten on four
days of the year? During what time period? For commoners or nobility, or
both? And why, if fresh meat was only eaten on four days of the year, do we
have so many extant German recipes for fresh meat? When were these
"killing days"?
Inquiring minds want to know...
Cindy
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 17:40:05 -0400
From: "Nicholas Sasso" <NJSasso at msplaw.com>
Subject: SC - Sausages Le Menagier d'niccolo
Here is the link to my sausage recipe for Menagier. It went over so well, and could have served twice as much. This is for about 2# of sausage. I'd do at least 10# to make it worth your while. Play with the salt and fry a small wad to taste it. Proper salting is a key to this one, and enough fennel. I did not have facilities for 4 day cold smoke, so I did a short cold smoke then a hot smoke on the grill (300F) to finish cooking after boiling. Got sufficient smooke flavor, but the preservative quality was lacking . . . I had to refrigerate them well to store while raw. GREAT with the mustard sauce from Menagier! or even better with the red mustard from Platina.
http://www.mindspring.com/~franiccolo/sausages_le_menagier.html
fra niccolo difrancesco
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:51:20 EDT
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - Sausages Le Menagier d'niccolo
NJSasso at msplaw.com writes:
<< http://www.mindspring.com/~franiccolo/sausages_le_menagier.html >>
Amazing that the precursor of sweet Italian sausage is to be found in a
French work...:- Nice job.
Ras
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:02:14 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: FWD Re: SC - Re: Lucanian sausage from Platina
ChannonM at aol.com wrote:
> We recognize that we have diverted from the original recipe, but man, if you
> ate what we ate, you'd agree that the sausage would be unacceptable at a
> feast. We did postulate that salted, smoked foods such as fish and hams etc
> would have been boiled sometimes numerously to remove salt and reconstitute
> the product. As such we intend on boiling the sausage the day of the feast to
> 1) warm it 2) remove excess salt.
>
> Our question is, has anyone been working with the Lucanian sausage recipe
> recently, what were your experiences regarding the salt concentration, what
> did you do about it etc.
I just consulted a buncha smoked sausage recipes in Jane Grigson's "The
Art of Making Sausages, Pates, and Other Charcuterie". The general
formula, on the average, seems to call for 1 Tbs salt per pound of meat,
fat, etc., which is a ratio of approximately 1:32. Of course, these may
not be intended to last at somewhat below room temperature for a year,
which is a fairly standard aim for projects of this kind in period. A
smoked sausage in Hugh Plat's "Delightes for Ladies" is supposed,
according to the recipe, to last for a year hanging up in the chimney,
and to be sliced and eaten, among other uses, with salads, and "to make
one relish a cup of wine". Sounds pretty salty to me (although in that
recipe salt quantities aren't specified, IIRC), and while this is
probably saltier than most of us would like, there's the question of
whether any of the salt may be lost to juice drippings in the
smoking/drying process. Ideally these are kept to a minimum, but they do occur.
I think, under the circumstances, you can get a reasonable approximation
of the sausage with a somewhat reduced salt ratio.
Maybe Puck can put you in touch with Lady Avelina Keyes in his Barony;
she has worked pretty extensively with this recipe.
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:45:11 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: SC - Another Sausage recipe
I took some time to work on another sausage recipe. This one is a fresh
bratwurst from Sabina Weserlin's Cookbook.
Here is the original and my redaction. I enjoyed the herbs and expect that as
the sausage ages, it will improve all the more.
25 If you would make good bratwurst
Take four pounds of pork and four pounds of beef and chop it finely.
After that mix with it two pounds of bacon and chop it together and
pour approximately one quart of water on it. Also add salt and pepper
thereto, however you like to eat it, or if you would like to have
some good herbs, you could take some sage and some marjoram, then you
have good bratwurst.
Redacted Recipe
2lbs pork shoulder butt or hams
2 lbs beef shank, deboned and connective tissue removed
or
1 more lb beef shank and 1 lbs lean ground beef (I didnÃt have enough at
the time of trial)
1 lbs bacon
2 cups cold water
.5 TBSP Cure all curing salt (if smoking afterward*), regular salt otherwise
1 TBSP ground black pepper
2 tsp dried marjoram
2 TBSP dried sage
Grind meat and mix well. Mix herbs and spices in a separate bowl, then add to
the meat. Mix in the water and blend well. Fill casings.
Cooking- Grill, boil or fry sausage if not smoking.
*I am inclined to believe that if all of the sausage was not going to be
eaten immediatley, that it would have been hung to smoke, thus preserving it
further. I have not smoked this sausage yet, but it is a consideration.
Hauviette
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:45:10 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: SC - Sausage Recipes
Some of you might be aware that Jasmine and I have been working on some
sausage recipes. Thanks goes to Baroness Gwyneth for lending her accessories
to us to use with the Kitchen Aid.
The recipe we worked on first was the Lucanian Sausage recipe. Following
Platinas instruction resulted in an unedibly salty sausage. We doubled the
meat to reduce the concentration and were much happier with the results. The
8 hour smoking process also mellowed the sharpness of the salt. The result
was a pepperette style sausage sans red pepper.
Here is our recipe,
#23
Lucanian Sausage
If you want good Lucanian sausages, cut the lean and fat meat from the pig at
the same time, after all the fibers and sinews have been removed. If the
piece of meat is ten pounds, mix in a pound of salt, two ounces of
well-cleaned fennel, the same amount of half-ground pepper, rub in a leave
for a day on a little table. The next day, stuff into a well-cleaned
intestine and thus hang up in smoke.
Final Recipe
22 lbs pork shoulder chopped and ground coarsely
1 lb or so of 32mm pork casings
1.125 cups sea salt
.125 cups curing salt
3 oz fennel
3 oz cracked black pepper
We redacted this recipe per the original instructions above
10 lb. pork butt (shoulder)
1 lb. salt made up of 3.6 oz curing salt (sodium nitrite added) and 12.4 oz
sea salt total volume 1.25 cups
2 oz whole fennel seed
2 oz cracked black pepper
The salt level of this combination was literally unpalatable. In order to
accommodate the salt that was already in the stuffing we amended the recipe
by adding 6 lb. of ground pork, 1oz fennel seed and 1 oz of cracked black
pepper. Eventually we added another 6 lbs of pork as even this combinatin
was still too salty.
We then made a test sausage in the pork casing and boiled it to reproduce a
period cooking method for preserved meat. It was our belief that the sausage
would need to be cooked, even after it was salted and smoke cured. Examples
in period of preparing salted foods (i.e. salt fish, hams etc.) call for them
to be boiled,, sometimes repeatedly using fresh water each time. This process
would remove a great deal of salt and rehydrate the product. This did leach
out some of the salt but further addition of meat was necessary to bring the
meat mixture to a level of saltiness that we felt would be accommodating to a
feast
Instructions
Meat was chopped into 2î cubes then ground in a food processor (we attempted
it with a Kitchen Aid grinder, but had a great deal of trouble getting the
meat through the grinding plate, this could have been due to the cut of pork,
the size of the meat or size of the grinding plate or simple our lack of
experience using said grinder)
Meat was continuously returned to the refrigerator to reduce the possibility
of food contamination. Spices and salt were added and the mixture was
blended in a mixing bowl of the Kitchen Aid.
A Trial Sausage
We prepared a section of sausage casing by cutting a piece from the salted
container. Water was then run through the length of the intestine, then it
was kept in a bowl of warm water till ready to use.
We did not have a sausage stuffing attachment so we attempted to substitute
using an empty ketchup bottle. We cut the bottom off and removed the top and
cleaned it thoroughly. Suffice to say, the experiment was not very successful
as it required two people to perform. One person had to hold the casing onto
the bottle, the other forcing the sausage through the opening.
The next attempt at stuffing the casing was done using an additional 6lbs of
pork shoulder. This resulted in a much more reasonable salt content and so
the final step was taken next.
Stuffing the Sausage- The casings were prepared by removing them from the
salted container and rinsed. Holding both ends of the casing, I filled it
with water till it reached the other end and then let the water drain out. Be
careful not to let the casing slip down the drain. The rinsed casings were
kept in a bowl of water until used in order to keep them from drying out.
Having the prepared sausage meat kept in the freezer during all the
preparation work reduced any possibility of food contamination. Once the
casings were ready, they were slipped onto the stuffing attachment and the
end was tied off by knotting the sausage onto itself. I began to stuff them
by putting the meat through the meat grinding attachment and sausage stuffing
piece added on. The job was only a bit laborious, as I was required to move
the stuffing along as well as force the meat into the tube. However, once I
got the hang of it it was easier going. This was best done if the casing was
slid about 1-2 inches from the end of the tube, otherwise it was too snug and
caused the casing to burst as it over filled it.
The sausages were brought to a smoke shop (butchers often keep smokehouses
that they will let you smoke your meat in for a reasonable price per pound)
and had the sausage smoked for 8 hours at 140-180 degrees. The temperature is
important, as food contamination is more likely between 40 and 140 degrees
farenheit especially during this extended period of time.
The smoking process greatly enhanced the flavour of the sausage and mellowed
the saltiness to some degree. I would advocate reducing the salt content
regardless of the period recipe. In this case it was just too overpowering.
We have peripheral information that there are varying recipes for Lucanian
sausage that denote smaller quantities of salt and that the salt may have
been less pure in some instances and as such less concentrated. These avenues
need to be researched further.
Hauviette
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 12:38:10 -0400
From: "Nicholas Sasso" <NJSasso at msplaw.com>
Subject: SC - re: Sausage recipes
<<<Here is our recipe,
#23
Lucanian Sausage
If you want good Lucanian sausages, cut the lean and fat meat from the pig at
the same time, after all the fibers and sinews have been removed. If the
piece of meat is ten pounds, mix in a pound of salt, two ounces of
well-cleaned fennel, the same amount of half-ground pepper, rub in a leave
for a day on a little table. The next day, stuff into a well-cleaned
intestine and thus hang up in smoke. >>>>>>
What size grind are you using for your meat? I find a 3/8 blade is what I prefer, coarse and meaty texture. I also like the fact that you are testing as you go. I suspect the lucanian is a very saltly sausage that is eaten in smaller quantities, or maybe as a favoring (sort of like choriz) rather than a brat type meal sausage.
Your brats look great too! Did you consciously decide not to add fat to this one? I would suspect it was because the recipe did not call for it; I found this recipe a bit dry for my taste without added fat, maybe because my meat was leaner than yours. I used check and pork shoulder, and about 1/2 pound lard added per pound of meat.
Great looking processes and recipes. I'm a strong flavored sausage fan, and these look good. Last question: Will you use hot or cold smoke when you smoke these?
niccolo difrancesco
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 14:00:07 -0400
From: "Gaylin J. Walli" <gwalli at ptc.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Sausage Recipes
Hauviette wrote:
>Some of you might be aware that Jasmine and I have been working on some
>sausage recipes. Thanks goes to Baroness Gwyneth for lending her accessories
>to us to use with the Kitchen Aid.
A small clarification, it was Baroness Gwynnyd, Baroness Roaring Wastes,
Midrealm, who loaned us the accessories we needed to use with my
Kitchen Aid. And despite our fumble fingered attempts, the attachments
worked well. Especially that darned cutting blade the Hauviette
discovered. Anyone ever tried to grind meat without that? It's
a lot like the little Playdough machines kids have that make fake
spaghetti or dolls hair. Except messier.
>The recipe we worked on first was the Lucanian Sausage recipe.
And actually, we have some pictures of what we were doing
too. Pictures of the meat grind we used, some pics of the sausage
in the water boiling, I think a pic of the equipment we used, sans
the aforementioned and accursed cutting blade I didn't know about.
There might be a picture of the meat cuts we used too, but I
don't remember.
I may even be able to convince Hauviette to take a few pics of
the final smoked product and have her take one of it cut up so
people can see the inside texture as well. Don't know how well
the pics will turn out, though because she'll be using my cheapy
digital camera, but they should be serviceable. (The camera
was on the top of your fridge in the kitchen, Hauviette.)
Once she's done with the camera, I'll see what I can do about
getting the pics onto my computer and then onto a web page.
Iasmin de Cordoba, gwalli at ptc.com or iasmin at home.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:06:39 -0400
From: "Gaylin J. Walli" <gwalli at ptc.com>
Subject: [mk-cooks] Re: SC - Sausage Recipes
Cariadoc asked a good question:
>Is it possible that this is intended as something like the little
>chinese sausages--not really a foodstuff but a condiment? They are
>very good in lots of things--but too strongly flavored to make a
>meal of.
I don't know that we can say. It would be a possibility worth
exploring, to be honest. I've looked through the manuscript
(Mallinkcrodt & Milham) and not been able to determine any
size suggestions for the intestine or even an animal suggestion
for the intestine that would indicate a size to the final
product. There also aren't any recipes in those manuscripts
that I've been able to find that indicate the sausage was
served, as you suggest it might be, as a condiment. Perhaps
going a bit further back and a mite forward would reward us
with clearer suggestions on these things.
Another possibility suggested was the idea of lead poisoning
affecting the taste buds and resulting in a saltier sausage for
the area in which this product was most highly prized. I am
doubtful of the validity of such a suggestions, but it too bears
further research. Hauviette and I are stumbling around in the
dark with regards to the *why* of the saltiness. Thank you
for this suggestion for further research.
Iasmin de Cordoba, gwalli at ptc.com or iasmin at home.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:44:46 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #2601
In a message dated 9/15/00 3:24:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Niccolo writes:
> What size grind are you using for your meat? I find a 3/8 blade is what I
> prefer, coarse and meaty texture. I also like the fact that you are testing
> as you go. I suspect the lucanian is a very saltly sausage that is eaten in
> smaller quantities, or maybe as a favoring (sort of like choriz) rather than a
> brat type meal sausage.
We used the 3/8 blade as well. I also like the coarse texture.
> Your brats look great too! Did you consciously decide not to add fat to
> this one? I would suspect it was becasue the recipe did not call for it; I
> found this recipe a bit dry for my taste without added fat, maybe because my
> meat was leaner than yours. I used check and pork shoulder, and about 1/2
> pound lard added per pound of meat.
I just followed the recipe. Weserlin does give instruction in another recipe
23 If you would make a good sausage for a salad
Then take ten pounds of pork and five pounds of beef, always two
parts pork to one part of beef. That would be fifteen pounds. To that
one should take eight ounces of salt and two and one half ounces of
pepper, which should be coarsely ground, and when the meat is
chopped, put into it at first two pounds of bacon, diced. According
to how fat the pork is, one can use less or more, take the bacon from
the back and not from the belly. And the sausages should be firmly
stuffed. The sooner they are dried the better. Hang them in the
parlor or in the kitchen, but not in the smoke and not near the oven,
so that the bacon does not melt. This should be done during the
crescent moon, and fill with the minced meat well and firmly, then
the sausages will remain good for a long while. Each sausage should
be tied above and below and also fasten a ribbon on both ends with
which they should be hung up, and every two days they should be
turned, upside down, and when they are fully dried out, wrap them in
a cloth and lay them in a box."
which does allow you some leeway as to whether or not to add fat. I intend
on working with this and several other recipes.
> Great looking processes and recipes. I'm a strong flavored sausage fan, and
> these look good. Last question: Will you use hot or cold smoke when you
> smoke these?
Thanks. So far they have been hot smoked as it is not my smoker and I have to
find alternatives if I want it done another way. Any suggestions?
Hauviette
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 16:52:28 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: SC - Re: sausage recipes
ddfr at best.com writes:
> >The recipe we worked on first was the Lucanian Sausage recipe. Following
> >Platinas instruction resulted in an unedibly salty sausage.
>
> Is it possible that this is intended as something like the little
> chinese sausages--not really a foodstuff but a condiment? They are
> very good in lots of things--but too strongly flavored to make a meal
> of.
That's a possibility I hadn't considered.
Sabina Weserlin (German, 16th C I believe) says
23 If you would make a good sausage for a salad
Then take ten pounds of pork and five pounds of beef, always two
parts pork to one part of beef. That would be fifteen pounds. To that
one should take eight ounces of salt and two and one half ounces of
pepper, which should be coarsely ground, and when the meat is
chopped, put into it at first two pounds of bacon, diced. According
to how fat the pork is, one can use less or more, take the bacon from
the back and not from the belly. And the sausages should be firmly
stuffed. The sooner they are dried the better. Hang them in the
parlor or in the kitchen, but not in the smoke and not near the oven,
so that the bacon does not melt. This should be done during the
crescent moon, and fill with the minced meat well and firmly, then
the sausages will remain good for a long while. Each sausage should
be tied above and below and also fasten a ribbon on both ends with
which they should be hung up, and every two days they should be
turned, upside down, and when they are fully dried out, wrap them in
a cloth and lay them in a box.
15 lbs of beef to 8 ounces of salt is less than my 22 lbs of meat to 18 ounces
of salt. Now we're talking German vs Italian, 16th vs 15th C but it is a
guidline to work with. I'm still considering that your comment is a
possibility. It was quite comical working out the recipe, because we kept
chanting to ourselves "trust in the recipe, trust in the recipe".
Although, there is another alternative, which could be that Platina miswrote,
he was pretty liberal with his adaptions of Martino. As well, there are
apparently other Lucanian sausage recipes in Scully's latest translations
that give quantities considerably less, like in the neighbourhood of 1/3 salt
compared to Platina's. I have to get my hands on a copy soon.
There are a few questions that I have yet to answer to have a complete
picture of this recipe and other sausage recipes. I am just excited knowing
there are so many recipes to work with.
Thanks for the consideration, I appreciate your input. When I develop more
research I will post it and hope to hear from you again.
Hauviette
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:18:15 EDT
From: ChannonM at aol.com
Subject: Re: [mk-cooks] Re: SC - Sausage Recipes
Oops, my quote of my own stuff was wrong-
I wrote in comparing Sabina Weserlin to the redaction of the Platina recipe
<<15 lbs of beef to 8ounces of salt is less than my 22lbs of meat to 18
ounces of salt. >>
Which should have read
15lbs of beef to 8 ounces of salt (Weserlin) compared to 10lbs of meat to 16
ounces salt (Platina original recipe) Our final product was 22lbs of meat to
16 ounces salt, which is closer to the Weserlin recipe. Had I added another
8lbs of meat we would have duplicated the ratio in Weserlin. And even at that
it is still salty, probably more than most could tolerate (except salt
lovers). I must say however, it was exquisite sliced thinly with some Edam
and fresh baked bread, mmmmmmmmmmm!
Hauviette
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 01:52:54 -0700
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: [mk-cooks] Re: SC - Sausage Recipes
The Milham translation of Platina conveniently footnotes recipes to
the corresponding recipe in Martino; I checked and the quantities are
the same.
Milham also has a recipe given in the translation as:
A Dish from Tongues and Sausages (p. 229. Bk IV ch 20).
The word translated as "sausages" is "Lucanicis. " The word
translated as "Lucanian Sausage" in the recipe you did is
"Lucanicae." I believe they are the same word, although my Latin
isn't good enough to be certain--at least, the book's index
references both passages for the same word. I don't know why Milham
translates it "sausages" in one place and "Lucanian sausage" in the
other.
The recipe starts:
"Let salted tongues be cooked in water, and when they are cooked, cut
them up in pieces, put them in a dish, and add some parsley, mint,
sage and spices, as much as is enough. Let vinegar be poured in last.
The same is done for larger sausages (lucanicis maioribus), ... ."
Presumably, cooking salted tongues in water and then taking them out
gets rid of some of the salt, and similarly with the sausages. You
might want to try some of yours in that recipe.
- --
David/Cariadoc
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:45:36 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Fats for sausages and other questions
Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Okay....the majority of the recipes I've seen (with the exception of the
> Lucanian recipe, which called for bacon, IIRC) for sausages just say
> "add fat." This holds true also for the little booklet of suggested
> recipes that came with my food grinder/sausage maker. What kind of fat
> are we talking about? Commercially rendered lard or something? are there
> alternatives? I need to make some quantity of a beef sausage w/out pork,
> for people at my feast who won't be able to eat pork--any suggestions?
The best fat to add for sausages is a hard back fat or kidney suet. Soft
fat tissue, such as the rubbery stuff found on, say, a pork shoulder
picnic or "arm", doesn't cook well, but translates to grease and rubbery
stuff. The Lucanian sausage calling for bacon probably really requires
pork belly, the stuff which, when cured, gives us the typical
American-style streaky bacon. That's a good fat to use. If, for some
reason, you can't use that for either all or part of your pork, you can
use fatback or kidney suet or leaf lard (unrendered!) to augment the fat
content of leaner meats. Alternately, you can use pork shoulder blade
roast, Boston blade and/or Boston butt (the piggy equivalent of chuck),
the name varies depending on where you are in the country, for all of
your meat. This'll give you a leaner, slightly drier sausage than
Platina probably intended, but it is not unpalatably dry, since it is
generally a well-marbled meat. My local butcher is on a health kick, and
has been using this cut for his Italian sausages. I think they're a bit
too lean, but apparently I'm in the minority.
For beef sausages, I'd suggest using just about any cut of beef (my own
personal preference would be to avoid chuck, which can have a strong,
almost sour flavor if not absolutely fresh), perhaps round (no
gristle!), to which beef kidney suet can be added to from 10-30% of the
total weight.
> Secondly, what should I do if I have no access to any sort of smoking
> facilities? (still investigating) Could they be made ahead of time and
> refrigerated or frozen, and then cooked "fresh" the day of the event? I
> plan on boiling them for a bit, and then finishing them on a grill.
Sure, you can do this. It's also a good idea to leave the sausages in
some cool place (under 50 degrees F) for a day or so, to blend the
flavors and allow the moisture to equalize and dry out just a bit.
> Also, if you're making link-style sausages (about the size, say of
> bratwurst), how do you keep the blobs of sausage stuff separate from
> each other inside the casing? Do you have to tie them off with string as
> you're making them or something?
Certainly that's a good idea for portioning purposes, but not strictly
necessary. I've occasionally had the butcher make sausage from my recipe
and I get a plastic bag full of stuffed guts if they're too busy to tie
them off. I then measure off a length roughly equivalent to two or three
pounds (determined in advance depending on the rest of the meal, etc.),
roll them into a spiral, and skewer them crosswise like a Celtic cross.
One per table.
Tying them off isn't difficult, though. The standard plan is to twist
lengths into definite link lengths, until you have a plateful of links.
Twist them in alternating directions so you don't end up with the entire
hank under enormous torsion. It's just easier. Then tie them off like a
roast: tie the end of your string to the end of the gut to seal the end,
run it along the link, wrap it around the first joint, then tuck it
under and through. Continue along the length, tying off each link. Yes,
it uses more string than if you use a separate string for each link, but
it also supplies more support for the length of links, if you're hanging
them up to smoke or dry, or something like that.
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:27:19 -0400
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Fats for sausages and other questions
Robin Carroll-Mann wrote:
> And it came to pass on 17 Sep 00,, that Philip & Susan Troy wrote:
> > The best fat to add for sausages is a hard back fat or kidney suet.
>
> Thank you! You answered a question that was in the back of my mind:
> is there a specific term for the fat on the kidneys? Kidney suet.
> Hmmmm... Cool. I learn something new every day on this list.
Suet is pretty much a generic term. Unqualified by species, it is
generally assumed to be beef suet. Kidney fat of pigs is usually leaf
lard or hog suet, AFAIK. In some places, presumaby parts of England,
there's flead, which, IIRC, generally refers to the kidney fat of either
sheep or hogs.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:19:31 -0700
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Re: sausage recipes
At 11:23 PM -0500 9/17/00, Stefan li Rous wrote:
>So, what are some of the period recipes that specifically call for
>"Lucasian Sausages"?
I already posted one (I think the only one) from Platina. To discover
that it refers to Lucanian sausages, however, you have to look at the
original, because Milham (I haven't checked the other translation)
translates the word as "sausage" in this recipe and as "Lucanian
sausage" in the recipe for making it. Fortunately, there is an Index
to the original, which is how I spotted it.
- --
David/Cariadoc
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:13:16 -0600
From: "Debra Hense" <DHense at ifmc.org>
To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>, <CalontirCooksGuild at egroups.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Sausages
Sausages
Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_ (1599)
Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)
Rellenos de diuersas maneras de al carne magra del puerco fresco
Sausages in various ways from the fresh lean meat of a pig
Take ten pounds of the said meat without bones, without skin, and
without nerves -- fat and lean -- and chop it with a knife upon a table,
adding eight ounces of ground salt, six ounces of dry sweet fennel,
four ounces of crushed pepper, one ounce of ground cinnamon,
half an ounce of chopped cloves, and mix it all very well with your hand,
adding four ounces of cold water, and mint, and chopped marjoram,
and let it all rest for four hours in a vessel of earthenware or wood in
a cool place, and take the membrane of the same pig, cleaned of
hair, and softened with warm water, and from the said mixture with
the membrane make the sausages in the shape you wish and let
them rest for two hours in a dry place, then roast them in the frying
pan with pork lard, or melted fatty bacon, and serve them hot.
You can stuff the intestines of the pig with the same mixture, have
first kept [the intestines] in salt, and you can cook them after two days.
From the same well-chopped lean meat you can make sausages with
the membrane, or with intestines, adding to the quantity of ten pounds
of meat a pound and a half of cheese of Parma or Pinto, and an ounce
and a half of chopped cinnamon, and another ounce and a half of
ground pepper, and one-eighth of saffron, and half a glass of fresh water,
and three ounces of salt, and being well mixed, make the said sausages
with the membrane, or with the intestines, and cook them as we have said.
The first recipe:
10 pounds of pork - ground
1 / 4 cup salt
3 (tone's spices) small containers of fennel seed (approx 1 & 1 / 2 ounces)
1 / 8 cup of peppercorns - freshly ground
1 / 4 cup cinnamon
1 tablespoon of ground cloves.
2 (tone's spices) small containers of chopped mint
2 (tone's spices) small containers of chopped marjoram.
1 / 2 cup cold water
The second recipe:
10 pounds of ground pork
1 & 1 / 2 pounds fresh ground parmasan cheese
1 / 8 cup salt
1 / 4 cup cinnamon
1 / 8 cup fresh ground pepper
1 / 8 cup saffron (which I ground the same time as the pepper).
1 / 2 cup cold water
For both recipes: casing cups (hog casings) - which have been
rinsed well and soaked in warm water for approx 5 to 10 minutes.
Mix spices in thoroughly with the ground (chilled - very important
- you much keep the meat very cold) pork. When your fingers are
turning blue from the cold and you absolutely cannot handle it another
second - then the spices are mixed into the meat enough.
I allowed the meat to rest (covered) overnight in the refrigerator before
stuffing into casing. I wanted to give the flavors a chance to develop.
Cover the bowl with towel and set a freezer baggie of ice on top to keep
it cold while stuffing the casings. The meat must be kept cold to keep little
nasties from growing. Then using a sausage stuffer or meat grinder
with stuffing attachment - slide the casing onto the stuffing attachement.
Tie a knot at the end of the casing. Prick a pin into the airbubble that forms
when you start stuffing the casing. After filling one casing and tying off the
other end, I marked off four inch lengths and pinched and twisted to
form my links.
I then put them in the smoker to be --smoked-- for several hours (about three
I think). Then I picked them up and plopped them into the freezer bags and
into the freezer they went. I kept one off of each to taste.
The first recipe makes for a salty but very strong bite of hot sausage. The second one with the cheese and saffron was not nearly so salty, and still had a slow bite to it.
If I were doing this again, I would greatly cut down on the salt. I think they
used so much salt in the orginal recipe because it was meant to be a partial
preservative, and partially to kill any harmful bacteria (bad humors). I would
probably use less pepper also. I don't like my sausage with quite so much bite.
The first recipe turns out a wonderful reddish color, the second a yellowish
color.
Both are good as is - almost salami like in flavor. And I would add more fennel seed to the first recipe - I know I didn't use enough but I didn't want to overdo it.
For coronation feast in two weeks - we will pull them from the freezer, heat
them up using a moist heat, and slice and serve on the first platter. I will
also make a mild honey-mustard dip to be served with the sausage.
Kateryn de Develyn
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 23:34:49 -0500
From: "Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German bacon
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Robin Carroll-Mann:
> I'm looking at the recipe for bratwurst in Sabina Welserin. It calls for 4
> pounds each of prok and beef, plus two pounds of bacon. What kind of
> bacon would be appropriate? Back bacon (Canadian), streaky bacon
> (American), or something else entirely?
Not sure which one you're using, Brighid, but this one is pretty
specific.
23 If you would make a good sausage for a salad
Then take ten pounds of pork and five pounds of beef, always two parts pork to
one part of beef. That would be fifteen pounds. To that one should take eight
ounces of salt and two and one half ounces of pepper, which should be coarsely
ground, and when the meat is chopped, put into it at first two pounds of bacon,
diced. According to how fat the pork is, one can use less or more, take the
bacon from the back and not from the belly. And the sausages should be firmly
stuffed. The sooner they are dried the better. Hang them in the parlor or in the
kitchen, but not in the smoke and not near the oven, so that the bacon does not
melt. This should be done during the crescent moon, and fill with the minced
meat well and firmly, then the sausages will remain good for a long while.
Each sausage should be tied above and below and also fasten a ribbon on both ends with which they should be hung up, and every two days they should be turned, upside down, and when they are fully dried out, wrap them in a cloth
and lay them in a box.
Saint Phlip,
CoDoLDS
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:42:07 -0800
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Merguez, was Caldo Verde, broccoli rabe, and
Saladura
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Angharad wrote:
> speaking of chorizo.....if anyone has access to north african or, better
> yet, moroccan butcher/grocer (Queens in NY is the best bet), try MERGUEZ.
> These are Moroccan sausages but usually a single long coil. Anyway, they
> are so delishus! usually filled with lamb and spices. you do not boil
> them. Anathema! You grill or fry in shallow oil. I am sure Anahita has
> had them. Have you?
Ironically all those lovely chicken and turkey sausages i buy at the
market come in *pork* casings. Bruce Aidells makes a "Moroccan"
chicken sausage - it's not like merguez, but it is nicely spiced and
has pistachio nuts in it, so it's yummy.
Hey, i could make mirkas and freeze them and eat them on Atkins
(don't want to get into THAT discussion, let's just say it's
working), since they don't have bread in them, as some other
SCA-period sausage recipes do...
Here's the recipe from the Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook
Recipe for Mirkâs (Merguez Sausage)
It is as nutritious as meatballs (banâdiq) and quick to digest, since
the pounding ripens its and makes it quick to digest, and it is good
nutrition. First get some meat from the leg or shoulder of a lamb and
pound it until it becomes like meatballs. Knead it in a bowl, mixing
in some oil and some murri naqî', pepper, coriander seed, lavender,
and cinnamon. Then add three quarters as much of fat, which should
not be pounded, as it would melt while frying, but chopped up with a
knife or beaten on a cutting board. Using the instrument made for
stuffing, stuff it in the washed gut, tied with thread to make
sausages, small or large. Then fry them with some fresh oil, and when
it is done and browned, make a sauce of vinegar and oil and use it
while hot. Some people make the sauce with the juice of cilantro and
mint and some pounded onion. Some cook it in a pot with oil and
vinegar, some make it râhibi with onion and lots of oil until it is
fried and browned. It is good whichever of these methods you use.
It appears i did not write down my recipe - at least i didn't put it
in the computer, and if it was on a bit of paper, it's long gone. So
the below is just a dissection of the above recipe
INGREDIENTS
-- "meat from the leg or shoulder of a lamb pound it until it becomes
like meatballs"
OK - i went to the halal market and asked them to grind some lamb for
me. I was serving 12, and it was part of a large number of dishes, so
i probably got between 3 and 5 lb - probably 5...
-- Olive oil, not more than 1/2 cup
-- Murri, a couple TB, maybe 1/4 cup, of murri that was gifted me by
His Grace
-- pepper - i might have used white, as the black catches in my
throat - 2 tsp-1 TB
-- coriander seed - ground fresh - 2 TB-1/4 cup (1/4 c. = 4 TB)
-- lavender - i used dried lavender buds from the health food store -
not more than a couple TB
-- cinnamon - don't remember if i use true cinnamon or cassia - maybe
2 TB (i prefer a subtle, rather than strong, cinnamon flavor)
-- three quarters as much of fat, chopped not pounded (i assume this
quantity is in relation to the meat - i did not add any)
PROCESS
1. First get some meat from the leg or shoulder of a lamb and pound
it until it becomes like meatballs.
I bought ground meat and used it as is. But sometimes i think that
the meat they would have been much finer in texture from pounding. I
don't own a meat grinder - would putting it in a food processor (i
have an old Cuisinart) give it a finer texture?
2. Knead meat in a bowl, mixing in the oil, murri, pepper, coriander,
lavender, and cinnamon.
3. Add fat, chopped up with a knife or beaten on a cutting board, but
NOT pounded. [i skipped this step]
4. Stuff meat mixture into well-washed gut casings using the
instrument made for stuffing, and tie with thread to make sausages,
small or large.
As explained above i skipped this step. Instead i formed the meat
into sausage shapes about twice as big as a "cocktail sausage".
5. Fry sausages in fresh oil, until cooked through and browned
Before serving i put them into a baking dish and put them into a 350
oven until they were cooked through but not completely dry - 15 min?
Because of this treatment, they might have liked having the extra fat
in them to make them even moister...
6. Make a sauce and eat with sausages while they are hot. "It is good
whichever of these methods you use."
-- Sauce Option One
vinegar and oil
This may be heated, too, i'm not sure.
-- Sauce Option Two
juice of cilantro
mint
pounded onion
(This is rather like a fresh Indian raita! ...you know, that green
puree that comes with samosas - except that raita sometimes has
coconut in it, and usually has green chilis in it, too)
-- Sauce Option Three
Cook the above in:
oil
vinegar
-- Sauce Option Four
Make it rahibi with:
onion browned in lots of oil
I'm not sure if this is added to one of the above options, or just
sprinkled over the mirkas
Me, i'd go for the pounded cilantro, mint, and onion, cooked in oil
and vinegar, with a serving of browned onion... But, then, i have my
moon in Gemini - when faced with a choice, i take one of each.
Anahita
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 12:35:28 -0600
From: Robert Downie <rdownie at mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: P.S.: Re: [Sca-cooks] chorizo
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
"Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" wrote:
>> Since I went looking for linguica and came back with chourica (it's
>> a long story, doesn't bear repeating), how much difference is there
>> between tem? (I'm not suggesting there's none; I just don't know
>> what it is, and figure someone else here might.)
>
> P.S.: I did a quick web search and at least one company selling
> linguica and chourico by mail-order and online, suggests that
> linguica and hourico are essentially the same (in fact, identical
> except for spice quantity/proportion), but with chourico being hotter
> than linguica. If that's the case, it's possible that what I got was
> actually linguica after all.
>
> A.
Yes, they are very smilar. Linguica is often thinner and doesn't always contain
pimento paste, otherwise they are almost indistinguishable. You may run across
another variant on the spiced pork sausage theme, salpicao. It also contains many of the same ingredients as the other two, but is more lightly smoked,
less fatty and thicker in shape. You can essentially substitute any one of these for the other without a dramatic difference in the final product.
Faerisa
Date: Thu, 6 May 2004 11:10:26 -0400
From: "Barbara Benson" <vox8 at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German Sausage recipes
To: "Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Our barony is planning on a German feast and we thought it would be
> cool to do our own sausages.
>
> Does anyne one have a period recipe for sausage?
>
> Grace Whyting
Greetings,
> From Sabina Welserin:
23 If you would make a good sausage for a salad
Then take ten pounds of pork and five pounds of beef, always two parts pork
to one part of beef. Tht would be fifteen pounds. To that one should take
eight ounces of salt and two and one half ounces of pepper, which should be
coarsely ground, and when the meat is chopped, put into it at first two
pounds of bacon, diced. According to how fat the pork s, one can use less
or more, take the bacon from the back and not from the belly. And the
sausages should be firmly stuffed. The sooner they are dried the better.
Hang them in the parlor or in the kitchen, but not in the smoke and not near
the oven, so hat the bacon does not melt. This should be done during the
crescent moon, and fill with the minced meat well and firmly, then the
sausages will remain good for a long while. Each sausage should be tied
above and below and also fasten a ribbon on both ens with which they should
be hung up, and every two days they should be turned, upside down, and when
they are fully dried out, wrap them in a cloth and lay them in a box.
24 How one should make Zervelat [1]
First take four pounds of pork from the tende area of the leg and two
pounds of bacon. Let this be finely chopped and add to it three ounces of
salt, one pound of grated cheese, one and one half ounces of pepper and one
and one half ounces of ginger. When it is chopped then knead the following
into it, one and one half ounces cinnamon, one fourth ounce of cloves, one
fourth ounce of nutmeg and one ounce of sugar. The sausage skins must be
cleaned and subsequently colored yellow, for which one needs not quite one
fourth ounce of saffron. Tie it u on both ends and pour in approximately
one quart of fresh water. The entire amount of salt, ginger and pepper
should not be added, taste it first and season it accordingly. It should be
cooked about as long as to cook eggs. The seasoning and the salt must be put
into it according to one's own discretion, it must be tried first.
25 If you would make good bratwurst
Take four pounds of pork and four pounds of beef and chop it finely. After
that mix with it two pounds of bacon and chop it together and por
approximately one quart of water on it. Also add salt and pepper thereto,
however you like to eat it, or if you would like to have some good herbs,
you could take some sage and some marjoram, then you have good bratwurst.
167 To make venison sausag
Take the liver and the lungs from a red deer, also good roast meat and deer
fat, bacon, spices, saffron, ginger and mace as well, chop it all together
and cook the sausage in a suitable broth.
> From Marx Rumpolt:
Pork sausages
14 Wüst von der Spensawzu machen. Nimm frischen Speck/ und von den
hinterkeulen Fleisch/ hacks durcheinander/ und wenn du es gehackt hast/ so
mach es ab mit Pfeffer und Salz/ nimm darnach Därm von der Spansaw/ schleim
sie auß/ und füll dz fleisch darein/ und wenn du die Würsthast gemacht/ so
wirff sie in kaltes Wasser/ so werden sie fein steiff und hart/ nimm sie
herauß/ und laß sie trucken werden/ so magstu sie braten/ oder mit Zwibeln
säuerlich eyenmachen/ es sey gelb oder weisz. Du kansts auch wol eynmachen/
daß du keinZwibel bedarfft/ brenn nur ein wenig Mehl drein. Du magst auch
die Würst unter allerley grüne Kräter geben/ so seyn sie gut und wolgeschmack.
Sausages from a sow to make. Take fresh bacon/ and meat from the back
haunches/ hack (mix) together, and when yu have mixed/ so season it with
pepper and salt/ take thereafter some intestine from the sow/ clean them out
(it literally says to remove the slime)/ and fill with the meat/ and when
you have made the sausages/ so throw them into cold water/ so they wil
become stiff and hard/ remove them/ and let them dry/ so (then) you may fry
(them)/ or with onion make them up sourish/ be it yellow (with saffron?) or
white. You can also well make it / that you need not use onion/ burn a
little flour in. You may als give the sausages under all sorts (assorted)
green herbs/ so they are good and welltasting.
Venison Sausage
13 Würst von Hirschendarm. Nimm den Hirschendarm/ unnd lasz ihn sauber
auszschleimen/ ist er feiszt/ unnd nicht Weidewundt/ so lasz es daran/ Nmm
die innwendigen Braten/ und das feiszt/ so bey den Nieren ligt/ und ein
wenig Ochsenfeiszt darzu / So wird es desto wolgeschmacker. Denn das
Hirschfeiszt ist gar herb unnd hart/ wenns kalt wirt/ unnd wenn mans isset/
bleibet es einem an Gaumen hengen Ist aber besser/ man nemme Speck darzu/
und hack es durcheinander mit dem Hirschfleisch/ mach es ab mit Gewürz/
Pfeffer und Ingwer/ schlag Eyer darunter/ und füll den Darm damit/ bindts zu
mit einem Spagat/ und wirff in in heisz gesotten Wasser/ und laz ihn gar in
die Statt sieden / legs auff einen Roszt / unnd breuns ab/ auff allen beyden
seiten/ gib es darnach trucken auff ein Tisch / dasz fein warm ist. Und
solche Würst kanstu kochen/ es sey gelb oder weisz / Pettersilgen Wurzel/
oder grünen Kräuern/ auch mit einer guten Rindtfleischbrüh seindt sie
wolgeschmack/ Magst sie auch in einem Pfeffer zurichten/ auch die Därm
zerschnitten/ und mit den Sülzen gegeben/ auch auff Ungerisch/ dasz sie
gefüllt seyn mit Eyern und Reisz/ wie man die Ochsendäm fült.
Sausage of venison intestine. Take the venison intestine/ and clean it well
(remove the slime)/ (if) it is whole/ and not (damaged?) / so leave it
together/ Take the inner roasts/ and the fat/ that is near the kidneys/ and
also some ox fat thereto/so it will be tastier. Then the venison fat is
strong and hard when it is cold/ and when one eats it/ it catches in the
gums/ It is better/ (if) one takes bacon/ and mix (hack) it with the venison
(meat)/ season it with spices/ pepper and ginger/ beat egs thereunder/ and
fill the intestine therewith/ tie it shut with a string/ and throw it in hot
boiled water/ and let it simmer in this way/ lay it on a rack/ and burn
(roast) it off/ on both sides/ give it (serve it) dry to the table/ that it
is nice ad warm. And you can cook such sausage/ be it yellow or white/
parsley root/ or green herbs/ also with a good beef broth is it welltasting/
If you like you may prepare it in a pepper (sauce?)/ also the intestine cut
up/ and added into the brawn/ also in the) Hungarian (manner)/ that it is
filled with eggs and rice/ as one fills an ox intestine.
That is all I can come up with off the top of my head. I hope that this is
useful information.
Glad Tidings,
--
Serena da Riva
Date: 6 May 2004 15:35:38 -0000
From: "Volker Bach" <bachv at paganet.de>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sc-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Thu, 6 May 2004 10:50:31 EDT, KristiWhyKelly at aol.com wrote :
> Our barony is planning on a German feast and we hought it would be
> cool to do our own sausages.
>
> Does anyone one have a period recipe for sausage?
I got beaten to welserin and rumpoldt(which are really the best), but
the Inntalkochbuch (15th cent.) has two others that might be helpful:
<<19>
Von wiltprät würst machen
Hakch das fleisch chlain vnd hakch einen spek
darein chlain vnd nim zu iglicher wurst
XVI ayer vnd mach das wol ab mit dem ge-Þ
würtz vnd vberprenn es ein wenig vnd legs
auf einen rost vnd richcz an.
Venison sausages
Chop themeat and chop bacon into it, take 16 eggs with each sausage (batch
of sausages?) and spice it well. Scald them quickly, roast on a griddle
and serve.
and
<<31>>
Pratwürst von vischen
Hakch den hechten chlain vnd gutz gewurtz
darzu vnd nim chüm dareinvnd tue das an
einen spis vnd pratz vnd pegewss mit smaltz
vnd richz an mit zukker, ymber vnd traget.
Roasting sausages of fish
Chop pike finely and add good spices and cumin. Place that on a spit and
roast it, and baste it with lard. Serve it with sugar, ginger and
/traget/ (gum tragacanth? candied spices?)
Date: Thu, 06 May 2004 11:34:05 -0600 (MDT)
From: Martina C Grasse <grasse at mscd.edu>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] German Sausages Sca-cooks Digest, Vol 12, Issue
24
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
you got some good stuff already on sausages, but I am including links
to several redacted sausage recipes. The first is the Welserin beef
and pork version that I did with beef and turkey so a friend with
religious restrictions could partake. Just substitute pork for turkey
and they should work fine, the second is a rabbit sausage if you want
something different, the third a beef version.
In all cases the sausage may not be the top recipe, just scroll a bit
and you should find it.
http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_ASsp99_wurst.htm
http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_ASrabbitcabbage.htm
http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_ASnovfeast.htm#thesecondcourse
and a non redacted pork sausage recipe that has probably already been
posted, but this is my translation,
http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_pork1.htm
additionally there are some other tasty redactions of period sausages
posted here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~smcclune/stewpot/recipe_index.html
and finally a version of beef sausages here
http://clem.mscd.edu/%7Egrasse/cooks12thlunch1.htm
Please feel free to email me directly if you have questions on the
actual sausage making process.
In Service (and still needing to update the Rumpolt pages with some
kewl new redactions by Volker, and update the cooks guild pages to
reflect the last meeting... GAH please can I be two of me)
Gwen Cat
Date: Thu, 6 May 2004 22:20:58 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German Sausage recipes
To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise:
>> <<31>>
>> Pratw?rst von vischen
>> Hakch den hechten chlain vnd gutz gewurtz
>> darzu vnd nim ch?m darein vnd tue das an
>> einen spis vnd pratz vnd pegewss mit smaltz
>> vnd richz an mit zukker, ymber vnd traget.
>>
>> Roasting sausages of fish
>>
>> Chop pike finely and add good spices and cumin. Place that on a spit and
>> roast it, and baste it with lard. Serve it with sugar, ginger and
>> /traget/ (gum tragacanth? candied spices?)
>
> Do you think this just omits to tell you to put it in the casings?
Very possibly. It does specify these are sausages, and while it's
doable without casings, it's a lot easier with than without. Traget,
by the way, is perhaps the verb tragen, to carry. IOW, I suspect,
serve it forth.
Adamantius
Date: 7 May 2004 09:55:24 -0000From: "Volker Bach" <bachv at paganet.de>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Thu, 6 ay 2004 22:20:58 -0400, "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net> wrote :
> Very possibly. It does specify these are sausages, and while it's
> doable without casings, it's a lot easier with than without. Traget,
> by the way, is perhaps the verb tragen, to carry. IOW, I suspect,
> serve it forth.
I don't think that's likely. The manuscript does not have many such
imperative forms, but those it has are all formed with final sibilants
(richcz, brings). It is also about as south German as you can get,
dialiectically speaking (if the writer wasn't so good at orthography it
might class as upper rather than high German), and the only way you can
have a final 't' in a singular imperative is in low German 'trag et' -
'carry it', whichin high and upper German would be 'trag es'. I don't
think it's the plural imperative 'tragt' - the recipes are all addressed
at the single cook, as is customary in medieval cookbooks.
That said, I have no clue what it actually is. My initial guess was
'ragant' - gum tracaganth, but then I speculated on a possible graphemic
reception of 'dragee' (pronounced the way a German reader would)
In all likelihood I will find the word in another context one day and
it'll be something perfectly obvious. that's what happened with 'tesem'.
Giano
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 07:22:35 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] German Sausage recipes
To: bacv at paganet.de, Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Volker Bach:
> On Thu, 6 May 2004 16:28:44 -0400, Jadwiga Zajaczkoa / Jenne Heise
> <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net> wrote :
>>> <<31>>
>>> Pratw?rst von vischen
>>> Hakch den hechten chlain vnd gutz gewurtz
>>> darzu vnd nim ch?m darein vnd tue das an
>>> einen spis vnd pratz vnd pegewss mit smaltz
>>> vnd richz an mit zukkr, ymber vnd traget.
>>>
>>> Roasting sausages of fish
>>>
>>> Chop pike finely and add good spices and cumin. Place that on a spit and
>>> roast it, and baste it with lard. Serve it with sugar, ginger and /traget/
>>> (gum tragacanth? candied spices?
>>
>> Do you think this just omits to tell you to put it in the casings?
>
> I guess either is possible. There are caseless sausages in later German
> cuisine IIRC, and we all know Oxford sausages.
Caseless Oxford sausages are a pretty recent
development, having been originally cased, then
made as crepinettes (wrapped in caul fat). Same
for "faggots"; the caul fat, at least.
> I'll have to try it at some point, but given what they charge for pike
> it'll be a while till I'm willing not only to fork out that money, but
> then to chop up the fish rather than boil, steam or roast it
> properly...
>
> Does anyone know a good substitute for pike? Freshwater predators
> aren't exactly common, and I'm no great fish expert to start with.
>
> Giano
You wan something firm, white, and sweet. Carp,
although quite bony, usually, and if trimmed free
of all the reddish-brown "bloodmeat", is a good
substitute, but there's obviously a lot of waste,
all things considered. The best substitute among
commercially available freshwater fish? Probably
walleye, which is sort of a giant yellow perch,
and sometimes known as yellow pike (and often
used commercially for gefilte fish, so the
precedent is basically there). Maybe some kind of
black bass, if somebody farms them, mght work.
It all depends on where you live, of course. My
knowledge of European fish is mired between the
theoretical and the anecdotal, while my knowledge
of American fish is fairly broad, and probably
better than most people's.
I'd be concerned about sing the various catfish
variants, but they _are_ firm, white, and sweet,
and the various flavorings would probably mask
any inherent muddiness. Yes, this is a golden
opportunity for everyone to tell us about their
favorite treatment of catfish, of which one of
us have ever heard previously ;-) .
Maybe your best bet would be to list your
options, and we could recommend a pike substitute
more easily from that list than from an infinite
list, if you know what I mean.
As for whether or not they're cased, Ican only
say that yes, either is possible, but that the
job of roasting them on a spit, and having them
not end up on the floor of the hearth, or
impossibly dry, is much easier if they are cased,
in one way or another. Which doesn't prove they
_were_ cased, but it might be said to stack the
deck a little in favor of the concept.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 14:44:12 EDT
From: KristiWhyKelly at aol.com
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Another Sausage recipe question
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
I found a brat recipe on the Sabrina Welserin cookbook site. I have someone
in my group questioning the accuracy of the translation. So, does anyone have
any info on the recipes from this translation?
I think his main concern is that this recipe calls for bacon and that
apparently Rumbolt calls for a beef/veal mixture. He says that bacon
was called for as a side dish for the sausage.
Does anyone have the original German copy for us to look at? Or maybe
a less contentious recipe?
Grace
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html
25 If you would make good bratwurst
Take four pounds of pork and four pounds of beef and chop it finely. After
that mix with it two pounds of bacon and chop it together and pour approximately
one quart of water on it. Also add salt and pepper thereto, however you like
to eat it, or if you would like to have some good herbs, you could take some
sage and some marjoram, then you have good bratwurst.
Date: 10 May 2004 18:04:18 -0000
From: "Volker Bach" <bachv at paganet.de>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Another Sausage recipe question
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Mon, 10 May 2004 14:44:12 EDT, KristiWhyKelly at aol.com wrote :
> I found a brat recipe on the Sabrina Welserin cookbook site. I have someone
> in my group questioning the accuracy of the translation. So, does
> anyone have any info on the recipes from this translation?
>
> I think his main concern is that this recipe calls for bacon and that
> apparently Rumbolt calls for a beef/veal mixture. He says that bacon
> was called for as a side dish for the sausage.
>
> Does anyone have the original German copy for us to look at? Or maybe
> a less contentious recipe?
The original is this, I think:
<<25>>
Weltt jr gútt prattwirst machen
So nempt 4 pfúnd schweinis vnnd 4 pfúnd rinderis, das
last klainhacken, nempt darnach 2 pfúnd speck darúnder
vnnd hackts anainander vnnd vngeferlich 3 seidlen wasser
giest daran, thiet aúch saltz, pfeffer daran, wie jrs geren est,
oder wan jr geren kreúter darin megt haben/ múgt jr nemen
ain wenig ain salua vnnd ain wenig maseron, so habt jr gút
brattwirst/.
She's not easy to read, but it looks pretty clear that the 'speck' goes
into the sausage mixture.
Sounds pretty good, actually...
Giano
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 20:14:03 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Charcuterie sausages books
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Look for a copy of Jane Grigson's "The Art of Making Sausages, Pates,
And Other Charcuterie". It's about as comprehensive as a book on French
charcuterie written by an Englishwoman can get ;-).
Grigson is still excellent and copies are available on the used market
here in the US.
(I own at least two editions of it--- both of which are boxed.)
There are a couple of comprehensive professional texts out there
also by Wiley. Professional Charcuterie is one. Jessica's Biscuit is
running a closeout right now
on Prestige De Grand Chefs Charcuterie Specialties
by Poulain, Michel & Frentz, Jean-Claude which is another. Looking under
sausages-- one also comes across
Bruce Aidells's Complete Sausage Book : Recipes from America's Premium
Sausage Maker
He's very informative and I have found his television appearances to be
informative and very down to earth.
http://www.ecookbooks.com/index.html
Johnnae
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 22:11:05 -0400
From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Menagier and stuff was Charcuterie
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
I went looking for pork recipes in Le menagier and started online with
the Hinson's English translation found at
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Menagier/Menagier.html
In the thickened meat soup section, Powers skipped a recipe which is
called "HOG OFFAL" by Hinson
This calls for "entrails" which are washed, then they can be
"then cut up in small pieces, and fry in bacon fat; then grind up first bread,
then mace, galingale, saffron, ginger, clove, grain, cinnamon: moisten
with stock "
etc.
Brereton includes this on page 214
97. Chaudun de pourceau, scilicet les boyaulx.
Then later Hinson translates the following---
SUMMER CHITTERLING SAUSAGES. Take the pluck of a lamb or kid and remove
the membrane, and the remainder cook in water with a little salt: and
when it is cooked, chop it very fine or grind it, then have six
egg-yolks and powdered spices, a tablespoon of silver, and beat it all
together in a bowl; then add and mix in your pluck with your egg-yolks
and spices, then spread it all on the caul or membrane, and roll up in
the manner of sausages, then bind slackly with thread longways, and then
close-set crossways; and then roast on the grill, then remove the thread
and serve. Or thus: make balls of it, that is of the membrane itself,
and fry these balls in sweet pork fat.
Again this recipe is not in Powers.
Brereton includes it on pages 252-53 of that edition as
254. Une andouille d'este.
No mention of "rillons or rillettes." just andouille.
[This is Andouille d'ete in the French edition of the Brereton text.
Page 735]
In the Pichon edition it's Une Andouille d'este on page 221 of the
Slatkine reprint.
Hope this helps--
Johnnae llyn Lewis
Possibly in Le Menagier, the English translation of which I have on hand
(Powers -- but don't, in fact, which is why I'm working from memory)
makes references to cracklings."
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 05:25:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Louise Smithson <helewyse at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Liver pate from Clifford Wright.
To: sca-cooks at anstorra.org
it was written:
Greetings All, I was plundering through my copy of "A Mediterranean
Feast" by Clifford Wright, looking for some things o take to a local
"12th" night event being held here in Bryn Madoc on the 16th. (So I
guess it is a 22nd night feast.) I stumbled upon a few things, and was
interested in comment and corrections from y'all.
-------------------------
First, is a recipe for Pate di Fegato. The book claims it to be a
favorite of Doge Nicolo Tron (d. 1473). There is no reference for this.
The recipe is: Pate di Fegato (Venice) (original snipped)
Closest I can come to this is liver sausages. This recipe is taken fom
the Anonymous Venetian cookbook written towards the end of the 15th
century.
Mortadelle bone e perfette etc. XLVI
Se tu voy fare mortadelle toy lo figato del porcho e lo suo reta over
raixella, toy lo figato e falo alessare e quando e cocto trilo fora e
toy herbe bone e pever e ove e caxo e sale tanto che basta, e toy lo
figato e queste cosse e bati ben insieme in mortaro e fay pastume e
distempera cum ova e con un pocho de la lesaura del figato, e poi toy
la reta e fay le mortadelle, equando sono fatte, frizili in bono onto
colator; quando sono fricte dali caldi a tavola.
To make good and perfect mortadelle etc. XLVI
If you want to make mortadelle, take pork liver and it’s caul or net,
take the liver and put it to boil, and when t is cooked take it out.
Take good herbs and pepper and eggs and cheese and salt, as much as is
enough, and take the liver and these things and beat them well in a
mortar and paste them well together and temper with eggs and a little
of the water n which the liver cooked. Then take the caul and make the
mortadelle (small or large sausages), and when they are made fry them
in good strained lard, when they are fried send them hot to the table.
This recipe kind of looks like the second one referenced. It is like
many other recipes, in my sources from 15th to 16th century, in many
other books which are for "Fegatelli" or little livers. Honestly the
first recipe which is given looks a lot like the chicken liver pate
that you find in "Masteing the art of french cooking" by Julia child.
I honestly don't recall a dish that looks like that amongst my sources.
Cream is an odd binder to use it just doesn't fit with the recipes I
have read.
As to the other two recipes you asked about I'm not familiar with the
arabic recipe collections or cooking to make comment on whether raw
cabbage is served. Although cabbage salad is referred to at least once
in Scappi but I would have to hunt up a source for that. I can look
for cassata but I believe that this issue has arisen before without
conclusion, but I can look around. The problem for the most part is
that cakes as we know them are more of a modern item.
Helewyse
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 13:55:11 -0700
From: James Prescott <prescotj at telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
At 14:47 -0500 2005-01-21, Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise wrote:
> Just read something posted somewhere else about:
> "Actual period receipts for sausage may be few and far between"
>
> Off the top of my head, I can think of four different sources for
> sausage recipes... I think we may need to prepare a list of the
> different period sausage recipes out there?
"Ouverture de Cuisine" has about eight recipes for making sausages.
Printed 1604, but the guy did his cooking in the second half of the
1500s.
Thorvald
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 16:20:47 -0500
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise:
> Just read something posted somewhere else about:
> "Actual period receipts for sausage may be few and far between"
Those wacky Laurels...
> Off the top of my head, I can think of four different sources for
> sausage recipes... I think we may need to prepare a list of the
> different period sausage recipes out there?
In addition to the Ouverture de Cuisine previously mentioned, there are:
Several in Apicius, not counting the various isicia and exicia
wrapped in caul fat/omentum.
One meat sausage in Le Menagier de Paris, plus a black pudding.
Fronchemoyle in Curye On Inglyshe (I forget which book offhand) is
pretty clearly a white pudding, and the various malaches dishes are
either white or black pudding mixtures used as tart fillings. See
also the Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books for those.
Platina has one or two recipes for Lucanian sausage (different from
the Apician recipes).
Sabina Welserin has at least one or more bratwurst recipes, plus a
cooked and dried sausage similar to a cervelat.
Marx Rumpolt has two or three bratwurst-type recipes, plus others, as I
recall.
Hugh Plat's Delightes for Ladies contains a Kielbasa recipe (Polonian
Sawsedge). It's slightly post-period.
Digby has some, as I recall, for both meat sausages as well as quite
a few black and white puddings encased in sausage casings. He's also
post-period.
Gervase Markham's The English Hus-wife also has several sausage
recipes, including both meat and black or white pudding versions.
Publication date is post-period, but many or all of the recipes are
probably older.
There are probably more that I'd find if I actually opened a book...
Adamantius
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 14:22:41 -080
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Not to forget the Anonymous 13th Century Adalusian cookbook which
has at least two, and possible a couple more.
I made one about a year ago - lamb flavored with, among other
ingredients, lavender, albeit without casings, as it is hard to find
non-pig casings in small quantities (i found lamb casings for 40-45
dollars US which i was told was enough for 50 lb of meat - a lot more
than the 8-15 lb i have made). The recipe is not on my website
Anahita
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 20:37:53 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SC <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius wrote:
> There are probably more that I'd find if I actually opened a book...
The Manal de Mugeres has a recipe for chorizos, and Granado has several
sausage recipes (though a couple of those come from Scappi).
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 18:15:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Louise Smithson <helewyse at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Sausage recipes
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
In addition to the cookbooks Adamantius mentioned there is the Italian
corpus:
Martino - at least one (in many of the various disguises of martino)
Anonymous venetian - one with variations
Anonymous tuscan - one with variations
Other 14th century Italian books - at least one each ( I have at least
three other books)
Scappi - at least four for meat, plus at least that many for fish
Romoli Domenico, one for meat, plus one for poultry, plus a couple for
fish.
Yup, period Sausage recipes are so hard to find. Hmm, maybe its time
for another little research project. Go though all my Italian sources
pull out all the recipes and put them on one page. It'll be at least a
month. I'm backed up as it is.
Helewyse
Whoever said that original statement must be looking at a single
source, because I didn't have to try hard at all to find some.
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 21:56:55 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Phlip wrote:
> Brighid- any chance you could send me the chorizo recipe? I'd be
> interested in comparing it to modern versions.
Sure!
----------------
Receta para hacer chorizos
Carne de puerco magra y gorda picada, harina muy cernida, ajos
mondados, clavos molidos, vino blanco, sal la que fuere menester.
Amasarlo todo con el vino y despues de masado, dejarlo en un vaso
cubierto un dia natural. Y despues henchir las tripas de vaca o puerco,
cual quisieredes, de esta masa y ponerlas a secar al humo.
http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/
01371074322363763092257/p0000001.htm#48
---------------------------
Recipe to make chorizos
Chopped pork, lean and fat, well-sifted flour, peeled garlic, ground
cloves, white wine, salt as is necessary. Knead it all with the wine,
and after kneading it, leave it in a covered vessel for a full day*.
And then stuff the intestines of cow or pig, whichever you wish, with
this mixture [literally, dough], and set them to dry in the smoke.
*Note: As in English, "day" (dia) can mean the time between sunrise and
sunset, or a 24-hour period. The RAE dictionary makes it clear that
"dia natural" means a full day, which is divided into daytime and
nighttime.
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 23:05:18 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Phlip wrote:
> We went through this, somewhat, when we were discussing gazpacho. What
> particularly makes these sausages all chorizo, derived from the original
> that Brighid presented us with? Is it simply a Spanish term for a highly
> spiced sausage, the spicings changing with the spices available? Are there
> other sausage recipes that aren't chorizo, that are highly spiced? Anybody
> have any information or speculation?
>
> Saint Phlip,
> CoD
The oldest definition is in Covarrubias (1611). He calls it "churizo",
and says that it is a particular type of sausage, and suggests that the
etymology of the name is from "churre", meaning "dripping" (as in fat
dripping from meat onto coals). Not very helpful.
The earliest edition of the RAE dictionary (1729) defines chorizo as a
short piece of intestine, stuffed with chopped meat, usually pork,
marinated, and with spices, which is cured in smoke to harden it. The
word I have translated as "marinated" is "adobado". The period recipes
that have "adobado" in their titles usually have vinegar in them, but
the white wine is substituting for it here.
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 19:59:05 -0800
From: lilinah at earthlink.net
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Chorizo - Manual de Mugeres...
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
Here's the 16th c. chorizo recipe
-------
Biblioteca Virtual Miguel de Cervantes
<http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/
01371074322363763092257/p0000001.htm>
Manual de mujeres en el cual se contienen muchas y diversas recetas muy buenas
Anónimo
i've also seen the title as:
Manual de mugeres en el qual se contienen muchas y diversas reçeutas
muy buenas
Receta para hacer chorizos
de puerco magra y gorda picada, harina muy
cernida, ajos mondados, clavos molidos, vino
blanco, sal la que fuere menester. Amasarlo todo
con el vino y después de masado, dejarlo en un
vaso cubierto un dÃa natural. Y después henchir
las tripas de vaca o puerco, cual quisiéredes, de
esta masa y ponerlas a secar al humo.
-------
Recipe for making chorizo sausage
Translated by Karen Larsdatter
http://www.geocities.com/karen_larsdatter/manual.htm
Minced lean and fat pork meat, well-sifted flour,
peeled (cloves of) garlic, ground cloves, white
wine, salt. Knead everything together with the
wine and after kneading it, leave it in a covered
vessel for one natural day. And then fill the
intestines of a cow or pig, whichever you want,
with this mixture and leave them to dry in smoke.
-------
I haven't tried this as i've no place to smoke it.
Anahita
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 02:51:57 -0500
From: Bill Fisher <liamfisher at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 22:32:57 -0500, Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net> wrote:
>> Thanks, Brighid ;-) Looking through the recipes I'm finding on the "Net,
>> there have been two major changes- substitution of chiles for the cloves
>> (not always, sometimes the cloves are maintained), and the fact that the
>> period recipe is a dried, smoked sausage, while the modern versions are a
>> fresh sausage.
>
> I think the caveat about modern chorizo being fresh may apply mostly
> or exclusively to Mexican versions. I know I've seen smoked and/or
> air-dried chorizo. Even Goya chorizo is semi-cured, like pepperoni.
>
> Adamantius
Mexican/american chorizo is fresh. The Spanish version is dried,
and the Portugese version, chourico, is smoked and dried.
Chaurice is the Louisianna version - I've seen it fresh and dried.
Spices vary per manufacturer, I can get versions here that are good
or will blow your socks off (even if you don't wear them).
Cadoc
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 15:26:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Lawrence Bayne <shonsu_78 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Barbara Benson <voxeight at gmail.com>, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
--- Barbara Benson <voxeight at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
In the [sausage] recipe it
calls for 4 bs pork, 4 lbs beef, 2 lbs pork fat and 1
quart of water. What is the purpose of the water?
<<<
An astute question, if a simple one. Requiring but a
simple answer. For moisture. Most sausage recipes that
are smoked as preserving method need extra moisture to
keep the meat from "burning" and thus becoming
in-edible. By the time the excess water has evaporated
out, the rest of the sausage is ready for consumption.
You can substitute other fluids, but make sure they
will not spoil before the sausage is done.
Most fresh sausages do not need the extra fluid as
they will be cooked and eaten quickly enough to
prevent the need for moisture.
Lothar
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 23:13:24 -0800
From: David Friedman <ddfr at daviddfriedman.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> There are probably more that I'd find if I actually opened a book...
> Adamantius
Manuscrito Anonimo, for instance. The first recipe is:
Recipe for Mirkâ s (Merguez Sausage)
I'm pretty sure there is a vegetarian sausage in there, too.
--
David/Cariadoc
www.daviddfriedman.com
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 09:37:20 -0500
From: Barbara Benson <voxeight at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
If we are looking for odd sausage like recipes and sausage is defined
by being stuffed into intestines then I would include the Boudin like
recipe in Markham's English Housewife.
35. Rice Puddings Take half a pound of Rice, and steep it in new milk
a whole night, and in the morning drain it, and let the milk drop
away, and take a quart of the best sweetest, and thickest Cream, and
put the Rice into it and boil it a little; then set it to cool an hour
or two, and after put in the Yolks of half a dozen Eggs, a little
Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Currants, Dates, Sugar and Salt; and having
mixed them well together, put in great store of Beef suet well beaten,
and small shred, and so put it into the farms, and boyl them as before
shewed, and serve them after a day old.
Then the second in the same text which is also a non-meat sausage:
32. To make the best white puddings. Take a pint of the best,
thickest, and sweetest cream, and boil it, then whilst it is hot, put
there unto a good quantity of fair great oatmeal grits, very sweet and
clean picked, and formerly steeped in milk twelve hours at least, and
let it soak in this cream another night; then put thereto at least
eight yolks of eggs, a little pepper, cloves, mace, saffron, currants,
dates, sugar salt, and great store of swine's suet, of for want
therof, great store of beef suet, and then fill it up in the farmes
according to the order of good housewifery, and then boil them on a
soft and gentle fire, and as they swell, prick them with a great pin,
or small awl, to keep them that they burst not: and when you serve
them to the table (which must be not until they be a day old), first
boil them a little, then take them out and toast them brown before the
fire, and so serve them , trimming the edge of the dish either with
salt or sugar.
These are both on my list of "To Try".
Serena da Riva
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 09:50:28 -0500
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] List of period sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach Stefan li Rous:
> Old Marian replied to me with:
>> Stefan li Rous wrote:
>>> Before, or along with such a list [of sausage recipes], I think you
>>> need to define just what
>>> you mean by "sausage" and what and what is not included. Is haggis a
>>> sausage for this, for instance? Does it hav to be in a casing?
>>
>> Haggis *is* made in a casing -- it's just that the casing is a
>> stomach instead of an intestine.
> Okay, I should have been more specific and said "intestine" instead of
> casing.
I'd say in general, it _ought_ to be in a casing. Not necessarily
small intestine, and not without exceptions. (See zampone, stuffed
into a boned-out pig's foot and hock, or the ones stuffed into large
intestines, or bologna, fer generic deity's sakes, stuffed into body
parts polite people don't talk about. And that's not to mention
artificial casings made of cloth or collagen.)
> But I've often seen "sausage" at least today, sold without a casing,
> at all.
For the most part, I'd say this is adoption by extension. "Sausage"
as an abbreviation for "Sausage Meat", the meat you stuff into
sausages.
> And I think I remember some medieval sausage-like recipes which
> were stuffed into something besides the stomach or the intestine.
I assume so. They're out there.
> So, for this period sausage list, should it contain things like a
> haggis?
In my opinion, yes.
> What is the difference between simply ground meat and sausage?
Traditionally, and, again, with some exceptions, sausages tend to
differ from ordinary ground or chopped meat in three key areas I can
think of: seasoning [the word "sausage" seems to derive from roots
referring to salt, and it is arguable as to whether the sole purpose
for the salt is preservative], fat content [fresh or dry, the fat
both improves the texture of a sausage, adds fat to the diet of those
that need it, central heating being a new thing, comparatively, and
excludes air and therefore preserves], and the presence of a casing,
which holds the meat together as it cooks or cures, keeps bugs and
dust out of it, etc.
> What is the dividing line between a pudding and a sausage, at least
> for such a list?
I talked a little about this earlier, and the short answer (HAH!!!)
is that there is no clear dividing line. If the terminology all came
from the same language, animals all had the same body parts differing
only in size, and climates and natural resources were the same all
over the world, we'd have a hope of some sort of unilateral system of
nomenclature and definition -- but we don't. It might also help if we
had a universally and multi-culturally accepted (doubtless at some
World Sausage Summit) sausage version of the Rheinheitsgebot, legally
defining a sausage and what it can contain, but we don't ;-).
_IN GENERAL_, and as always, not without exceptions, sausages tend to
be made from meat, fat (ideally from the same animal the meat comes
from, but this isn't always so), salt and spices.
_IN GENERAL_, the sausagey entities we know as puddings (the
derivation of this word not being helpfully designed by period
etymologists to help us distinguish them from sausages, and this of
course is our big problem, but it may or may not be, originally, a
reference to guts), tend to have a significant non-meat content. So,
for example, they may have everything a typical sausage has, plus
blood, or they may contain fat, onions, grain and seasonings but no
muscle meat. They may contain cream or eggs, or both, or a mixture of
cooked and raw meats. Generally they tend to be less highly seasoned
than the sausages from the same culture (which doesn't mean they're
bland), possibly because they also tend to be made from the animal
portions which don't preserve as well. For whatever reason, they
tend, usually, not to be made to last as long as meat sausages.
Whether this is because it's ultimately impossible, or simply not
necessary, I can't say.
Again, I can't stress too highly the fact that every rule here has
some exceptions, but think of yourself slaughtering a pig, and you
want to use every last scrap. There's a description of this very
thing in Le Menagier, or if you want photos there's always the
Foxfire books showing the same thing, pretty much, and I'm pretty
sure you've got it in the Florilegium, in fact.
Anyway, the point is you've got all this meat, and fat, and blood,
and guts, and your plan is to turn all this into as much usable food
as you possibly can. What do you do? After you've salted hams and put
the salt pork up, you eventually have to deal with the small and
large intestines, which get processed to deslime their interiors,
washed free of blood, defatted, etc. You then make them into
sausages. The meat types can be eaten fresh, of course, but they can
also be kept for quite a while, so since you don't plan on a hunger
strike in February and March (Lent notwithstanding -- okay, say
December and January), you make your meat sausages to last. You
dry-salt the stuffing mixture, or brine the finished sausages, and
eventually hang them up to dry in the wind, the warm air near the
fire, or in the smoke. You then still have intestines to use up, and
some meats, things like liver, additional fat, blood, and maybe a
spleen or some lungs, to deal with. From these you make puddings,
which are either eaten immediately, or slightly dried in a cool
place, to be eaten soon. Some of them respond well to preservation in
rendered fat, and you can even salt pieces of liver or spleen, cook
them in rendered fat, and pot them to exclude air (this process may
not have been widely practiced in period).
In general, though, all I can really say for sure about the
differences between sausages and puddings is that form follows
function, which, in turn, follows form. If you know what I mean...
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 11:51:26 -0500
From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Barbara Benson wrote:
> If we are looking for odd sausage like recipes and sausage is defined
> by being stuffed into intestines then I would include the Boudin like
> recip in Markhams English Housewife.
>
> 35. Rice Puddings Take half a pound of Rice, and steep it in new milk
> a whole night, and in the morning drain it, and let the milk drop
> away, and take a quart of the best sweetest, and thickest Cream, and
> put the rice into it and boil it a little; then set it to cool an hour
> or two, and after put in the Yolks of half a dozen Eggs, a little
> Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Currants, Dates, Sugar and Salt; and having
> mixed them well together, put in great store of Beef suet well beaten,
> and small shred, and so put it into the farms, and boyl them as before
> shewed, and serve them after a day old.
> [SNIP]
>
> Serena da Riva
If we accept non-meat mixtures in casings as sausages, then I would
submit "Mrcillas Finas" from the Manual de Mugeres. (Spanish,
15th/16th c.)
Receta para hacer morcillas finas
Pan rallado, almendras cortadas, pin~ones, clavos y canela molido,
yemas de huevos cocidas, manteca de puerco fresca, sal la que fuere
menester,azúcar derretido en agua de olor. Todas estas cosas amasadas.
Y hecha la masa, henchir las tripas -que sean de las delgadas de vaca-
de esta masa. Y tableadas las tripas, picadas con un alfiler; y puesta
una caldera de agua al fuego, cuando hierva meter ls tripas horadadas
dentro, y dejarlas hasta que se paren tiestas.
http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/
01371074322363763092257/p0000001.htm#116
Recipe to make fine "morcillas"*
Grated bread, chopped almonds, pinenuts, ground cloves and cnnamon,
yolks of hard-boiled eggs, fresh pork lard, salt as is needed, sugar
melted in scented water**. All these things kneaded together. And
when the dough is made, stuff the intestines -- which should be the
thin ones from a cow -- with this dough. And when the intestines are
divided***, prick them with a needle; put a caldron of water on the
fire, when it boils put the pierced intestines inside, and leave them
until they seem firm.
Notes:
* "Morcillas" are normally blood sausages, hereas these are closer
to a British boiled pudding.
** "Agua de olor" is a generic term for scented waters such as rose
water, orange-flower water, and musk water.
*** The verb "tablear" means to divide, but generally refers to
dividing something into table-like sections -- such as dividing a
garden into individual plots. My guess would be that the intention here
is to divide the length of the stuffed intestine into equal-sized
links, probably by twisting or tying. There's no mention of cutting
the links apart, and I don't see a point in it. It would be much
easier to remove a chain of sausage links from boiling water, and cut
them into serving pieces afterwards.
--
Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 12:20:10 -0500
From: "a5foil" <a5foil at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipe
To: "Barbara Benson" <voxeight at gmail.com>, "Cooks within the SCA"
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
From: "Barbara Benson" <voxeigt at gmail.com>
> Now, here is a question. In the recipe it calls for 4 lbs pork, 4 lbs
> beef, 2 lbs pork fat an 1 quart of water.
>
> What is the purpose of the water?
Aside from adding moisture, water or other liquid in sausage also serves the
mechanical function of distributing salt (in particular) and other
flavorings throughout the meat more efficiently than if the dry spices are
just sprinkled on the meat. If you want to test this yourself, take a
teaspoon of salt and a teaspoon of pepper per pound of ground pork, and
sprinkle it directly on the meat and mix it in (this is a recipe for
butifarra crua). Try the same recipe, but add a quarter cup of water per
pound of ground pork, dissolve the salt in the water, and soak the pepper in
the water for about 10 minutes before working the water and seasonings into
the meat.
Wet sausage is easier to stuff, to. About 30 minutes after salt is added to
the meat, it starts to set. A sausage with added liquid is easier to work,
longer after the salt is added.
- Thomas Longshanks
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 22:52:40 +0100
From: henna <hennar at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 14:47:26 -0500, Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise
<jenne at fiedlerfamily.net> wrote:
> Just read something posted somewhere else about:
> "Actual period receipts for sausage may be few and far between"
>
> Off the top of my head, I can think of four different sources for
> sausage recipes... I think we may need to prepare a list of the
> different period sausage recipes out there?
I found sausages, and try to translate them (I doubt most ppl here
understand dutch)
Finne
Eenen seer schoonen ende excellenten Cocboeck
Carolus Battus, Dordrecht 1593
73 Om sausijskens te maken.
Neemt versch verckenvleesch van de hammen oft hespen dat niet te vet
en is. Cappet cleyn ende doet er dan sout, peperpoeder ende
venckelzaedt in. Mengelet dan onder den anderen ende vollet dan in de
darmen ende hangtse dan te droogen in den roock.
To make sausages.
Take fresh porcmeat of the hams wich is not to fat. Dice(litterally
make it small) it and add
sald, peper and fennelseed. Mix it and fill intestines and hang to dry
in the smoke
184 Om worsten te maken.
Neemt verckensvleesch, cappet wel cleyn ende doet er dan in
peperpoeder, savie, rompen of nootpoeder. Menghet dese poederen wel
onder dit gecapt vleesch, soutse dan wel ende menghet met den soute
oock wel ondereen ende ist dat ghyt begeert, so moecht ghy wat heel
naghelen daerin steken. Vullet vleesch dan in u darmen ende maectse
soo lanck als ghy begheert, maer u darmen moeten in lau water liggen
als ghijse vult.
To make sausages
Take porc meat, make it small and add powdered pepper, salie(a
spice), powdered nuts(?) . Mix these powder good under the small meat,
salt it and mix the salt under it. If you so want it you can put whole
cloves in it. Fill the intestines with the meat and make them as long
as you wish, but the intestines should be in lukewarm water as you
fill them.
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 22:09:53 -0500
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: henna <hennar at gmail.com>, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach henna:
> 184 Om worsten te maken.
> Neemt verckensvleesch, cappet wel cleyn ende doet er dan in
> peperpoeder, savie, rompen of nootpoeder.
<snip>
> To make sausages
> Take porc meat, make it small and add powdered pepper, salie(a
> spice), powdered nuts(?) .
I note you're spelling an untranslated term differently in two
different renderings. It wouldn't be salie, which, according to the
Alta Vista Babelfish site, is sage (salvia in Latin), would it? As
for rompen of nootpoeder, I wonder if this is mace. The shell, or
outer layer, of nootpoeder; the modern Dutch term for nutmeg is
something like nootmuskat.
Adamantius
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 10:48:59 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: smcclune at earthlink.net
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Sausage Recipes
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
As promised, here are the sausage recipes I have used:
Lucanian Sausages
Apicius, #61:
Lucanicae: ... Teritur piper, cuminum, satureia, ruta, petroselinum,
condimentum, bacae lauri, liquamen, et admiscetur pulpa bene tunas ita
ut denuo bene cum ipso subtrito fricetur. Cum liquamine admixto,
pipere integro et abundanti pinguedine et nucleis incies in intestinum
perquam tenuatim perductum, et sic ad fumum suspenditur.
Translation: Lucanian Sausages: ... Pepper is ground with cumin,
savory, rue, parsley, condiments, bay berries, and garum. Finely
ground meat is mixed in, then ground again together with the other
ground ingredients. Mix with garum, peppercorns, and plenty of fat,
and pine nuts; fill a casing stretched extremely thin, and thus it is
hung in smoke. [Giacosa, p. 182]
To Make Sausages:
(Le Menagier de Paris 1393)
When you have killed your pig, take some chops, first from the part
they call the filet, and then take some chops from the other side and
some of the best fat, as much of the one as of the other, enough to
make as many sausages as you need; and have it finely chopped and
ground by a pastry-cook. Then grind fennel and a little fine salt, and
then take your ground fennel, and mix thoroughly with a quarter as much
of powdered spices; then mix your meat, your spices and your fennel
thoroughly together, and then fill the guts, that is to say, the small
gut. (And know that the guts of an old porker are better for this
purpose than those of a young pig, because they are larger.) And after
this, smoke them for four days or more, and when you want to eat them,
put them in hot water and bring just to boiling, and then put them on
the grill.
> From "Le Menagier de Paris" (online version, translated by Janet Hinson at
> http://www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Cookbooks/Menagier/Menagier.html)
20. Meat Sausages
On Right Pleasure and Good Health, Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi). [Mary
Ella Milham, trans.]
Take meat from a veal haunch, and cut it up small with its own fat or
with lard. Grind marjoram and parsley together, and beat egg yolk and
grated cheese with a paddle, sprinkle on spices, make a single mass and
mix everything with the meat itself. Then wrap this mixture with pork
or veal casing, after it has been cut off in pieces to the size of an
egg. Cook on a spit at the hearth on a slow fire. The common people
call this sausage mortadella because it is surely more pleasant a
little raw than overcooked. For this reason it is digested slowly,
makes obstructions, creates stone, but nevertheless helps the heart and
liver.
Sausages
On Right Pleasure and Good Health, Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi). [Mary
Ella Milham, trans.]
Into well-ground veal or pork fat, mix grated cheese which is not only
aged but rich, well-ground spices, two or three eggs, beaten with a
paddle, and as much salt as the batch requires, and saffron so as to
make everything saffron-colored. When they are mixed, put them in a
well washed intestine which has been drawn out exceedingly thinly. Not
good unless they have hardened for two days, they require cooking in a
pot. They can be kept, however, for a fortnight or more, if you add
more salt and spices or if you dry them in smoke.
Lucanian sausage
On Right Pleasure and Good Health, Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi). [Mary
Ella Milham, trans.]
If you want good Lucanian sausages, cut the lean and fat meat from the
pig at the same time, after all the fibers and sinews have been
removed. If the piece of meat is ten pounds, mix in a pound of salt,
two ounces of well cleaned fennel, the same amount of half-ground
pepper, rub in and leave for a day on a little table. The next day,
stuff it into a well cleaned intestine and thus hang it up in smoke.
---
On this last one, I cut the salt dramatically, as I was making them for
immediate consumption. However, I now have friends who have offered
the use of their smokers, so I want to try this one again and smoke
them to see how it changes the flavor/texture, and then I will add more
salt.
Of them all, I think my favorite was the first Lucanian sausage --
despite the fact that I didn't know what "condiments" to add and did
not have any bay berries to put in, they were very tasty. Even my
husband, who despises nuts and is generally not fond of sausage anyway,
ate them and said they were good!
Arwen
Caerthe, Outlands
(Denver, CO)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 20:19:48 -0400
From: Micheal <dmreid at hfx.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage recipes
To: henna <hennar at gmail.com>, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>, jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
Some one said something about veg sausage. Well I am not sure but this
sounds like one.
Hieronymus Bock 15th century German army cook To comrade in the field:
If you have to go to war, and have to cook at various things, without having
much Kitchen wear.
Take sheep and cattle intestines, as well as pigs stomachs. Clean and stuff
them as you wish with black and yellow and green. Turnips or onions fill
each separately with its own broth. Stuff it tight, put it into a pan or
kettle. Boil until done and serve forth quickly as you can.
Reference concerning cooking under a retreat from battles thus loosing most
of their gear.
Sorry it was quoted to me so I didn`t think to get the name of the book
itself as I was laughing to hard.
Da
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 15:08:37 -0400
From: Micheal <dmreid at hfx.eastlink.ca>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Fish Sausage
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Here`s one for you I took a recipe out of Koge Boge to make small
sausages page 37 recipe LXXXIIX . Now I can find recipes dealing in such
sausage but very little else to use as ducumentation. oing so but extremely
little documentation for it. Anyone have any ideas where to look?
Da
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 14:11:14 -0700
From: James Prescott <prescotj at telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish Sausage
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
At 15:08 -0400 2005-03-09, Micheal wrote:
> Here`s one for you I took a recipe out of Koge Boge to make small
> sausages page 37 recipe LXXXIIX . Now I can find recipes dealing
> in such sausage but very little else to use as ducumentation . oing
> so but extremly little documentation for it. Anyone have any ideas
> where to look?
> Da
Not sure what you are asking for.
Casteau's "Ouverture de Cuisine" (1604) has five recipes for making
fish sausage, some of which include serving suggestions. There are
other recipes in Casteau which have sausages as ingredients, though
none of them explicitly calls for one of the fish sausages.
Thorvald
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 17:2725 -0500
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
<adamantius.magister at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish Sausage
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Also sprach James Prescott:
> Casteau's "Ouverture de Cuisine" (1604) has five recipes for making
> fish sausage, some of which include serving suggestions. There are
> other recipes in Casteau which have sausages as ingredients, though
> none of them explicitly calls for one of the fish sausages.
There's also a recipe in one ofthe later English sources (John
Murrell?) for Ising puddings, which are (although the recipe doesn't
make it really clear) stuffed into the gut or air bladder of a
sturgeon. (Isings are sturgeons in Anglo-Saxon.) The filling involves
oatmeal and cream, asI recall...
Adamantius
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 13:43:19 -0400
From: "Daniel Phelps" <phelpsd at gate.net>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Sausage
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Check out the book "The Savory Sausage; A Culinary Tour Around the World"
By Linda Merinoff. 1987, Poseidon Press ISBN 0-671-62727-9 for lots of
recipes, albeit modern ones, from all over the world.
As side note regards the reference to 15 foot condoms, were not the original
condoms used in late period sausage casings? Hmmm, if so I can picture a
potential A/S project in my mind's eye, consider the possibilities. The
mind boggles does it not?
Daniel
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 17:57:42 EDT
From: SilverR0se at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausages, we have a weinner (winner)
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
avrealtor at prodigy.net writes:
> 2)Boil then pan fry: Worked great. Center was fully cooked, outside was
> browned but not overly done. Split just a tiny bit, but since the inside was
> partially cooked already, it already had a basic shape and didn't ooze out.
> Skin was also a better texture. More crispy.
Most modern commercial sausage makers suggest putting them in a pan with 1/2
inch of water and covering, simmering on medium heat. After about 10 minutes,
drain any remaining water and continue cooking until brown, turning
frequently.
Read that off'n a package of Johnsonville Brats just last night. It worked
great!
I often cook Italian sausages for pasta sauce in the microwave - 10 minutes
on high, turn them over and another 5 minutes and they are perfectly done and
even a bit brown. Please note, however, that my microwave is not enthusiastic
so your times may vary.
Renata
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 18:50:08 -0400
From: Elaine Koogler <ekoogler1 at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausages, we have a weinner (winner)
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Karin Burgess wrote:
> I decided to try cooking the 3 in different ways.
>
> 1)Pan fry: bad idea. the sausage exploded (again) and it got
> burned before the center was fully cooked. Skin was well not tasty
> not appealing to the eye.
>
> 2)Boil then pan fry: Worked great. Center was fullt cooked,
> outside was browned but not overly done. Split just a tiny bit,
> but since the inside was partially cooked already, it already had a
> basic shape and didn't ooze out. Skin was also a better texture.
> More crispy.
>
> May try BBQing late in the day, but it is already 90 degrees here
> and I am not standing over a BBQ just yet. Will probably boil that
> one as well
>
> All I can say is I am so very happy I am experimenting now then
> the day of the Feast.
>
> -Muiriath
Have you tried piercing the skin with a fork before cooking? It seems
to help keep the skin intact. But boiling before browning is the way to
go...that's how we fix brats...(not kids, you smart a*))(*!!)...boil
them in beer, then brown them with sliced onions.
Kiri
Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 13:19:54 -0400
From: "grizly" <grizly at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausages, we have a weinner (winner)
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
I missed the explanation of the facilities available, but roasting is always
a thought for simple methods. I employ this often when preparing suasages
at home . . . always pricking the skins before cooking.
Several sources I've used in preparing the little ground jewels in casings
say to seeth and then fry. You'll get a moister product, in general, and you
will get that crisp snap when biting into them.
In Kenosha and Madison WI (a couple hundred miles from Sheboygan - home of
the American Bratwurst) they are grilled from raw and 'basted' with beer.
Put some beer in a squirt bottle with a bit of water, and you use it to tame
flare-ups in the coals as well as to mist the cooking sausages. Slightly
drier sausage, and with a low, indirect fire, you get perfect brats.
niccolo difranceso
(mustard and kraut on mine, please)
From: David Friedman <ddfr at daviddfriedman.nopsam.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Period Sausage and Leek Soup Recipes
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 21:09:26 -0700
Matthew G. Saroff <msaroff at pobox.com> wrote:
> In terms of the sausage, I am looking for those involving lamb
> and sheep. I found one recipe derived from the records of the
> Spanish inquisition, and I'm looking for more.
>
> For both, I am trying to avoid any milk products.
>
> Also, I'm trying to show that Schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) and
> Gribniz (the chicken skin crunchies left after rendering chicken
> fat) are period.
>
> Anyone know any docs?
You can find lamb sausages in Manusrito Anonimo, webbed at:
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Andalusian/andalusian_co
ntents.htm
Starting with the first recipe in the book.
The book also contains multiple references to chicken fat. "and pour on
it cooked chicken fat" pretty clearly implies schmaltz.
--
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/ http://daviddfriedman.blogspot.com/
Author of _Harald_, a fantasy without magic.
Published by Baen, in bookstores now
From: nexus at panix.com (Jeff Berry)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Cured Meats
Date: 5 Jul 2006 13:39:01 -0400
Byron L. Reed <rccR_E_M_O_V_Eng at byronreed.com> wrote:
> Would like to try making traditional cured sausages from a variety of
> periods and cultures. Does anyone know of any decent books on the
> subject that would be good for a novice?
> BLReed
I've got a couple of period sausage recipes up on the Hitchhiker's Guide to
Ancient Cookery:
http://www.panix.com/~nexus/cooking/cc25.shtml
http://www.panix.com/~nexus/cooking/cc34.shtml
The first article is for sausages which are heavily brined, which might
count as pickling by some measures.
I also have an article up about some ham curing that I did (and do) that has
some useful links ...
Jeff Berry nexus at panix.com ,
Alexandre Lerot d'Avigne Whyt Whey, East ( >|
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 22:49:02 -0000
From: <euriol at ptd.net>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Historian finds oldest recipe for German
bratwurst
To: <Sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
I just found this article on Yahoo News. Thought many here would enjoy
reading it.
Euriol
http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20071031/od_uk_nm/
oukoe_uk_germany_bratwurst;_ylt=AoheHJEYmFYZpew1RRsdGeHtiBIF
A photograph and transliteration of the text can be found at:
http://www.bratwurstmuseum.net/
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 03:55:27 -0400
From: ranvaig at columbus.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] [sca-ae-cooks] Historian finds oldest recipe
for German bratwurst
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
> By transliteration, do you mean the picture of the manuscript in the
> upper left corner? Or is it transcribed somewhere else? I'm afraid my
> German isn't good enough to make anything out on that website.
Underneath that picture is a link "mehr" or more, which goes here
http://www.bratwurstmuseum.net/Reinheitsgebot.htm
While interesting, it's really not a recipe, but a purity law, a list
of things that cant be used in sausages, and the fines for it.
The relevant passage is:
Aus der Weimarer Fleischhauersatzung von 1432
Ouch sullen sie die brotworste lebirworste unde andir wurste or
iglicher bisundern machen von reynem friszchem fleiszche das nicht
fynnecht nach wandelbar ist unde sullen daryn nicht hagken milzcen
herzce nyren nach keyn ander ungeferte nach fr?mde fleisz das sich
nicht darzu geburt hinder wen man das queme der ist der stat zcu
busse vorfallin von iglicher wurst bisundern zcwene schillinge
denariorum also manche her der gemacht had unde sal darzcu der stat
gehorsam halden bisz so lange das dii meistere vor on beten unde dem
hantwergke sine busse geben
Then a modern German version:
Auch sollen sie die Bratw?rste, Leberw?rste und anderen W?rste von
reinem, frischen Fleisch machen, das weder finnig (ohne Finnen) noch
wandelbar (gammelig, angegangen) ist, und sie sollen keine Milzen,
Herzen, Nieren noch anderes Ungef?hrde (alles irgendwie Gef?hrliche,
Giftstoffe) noch fremdes Fleisch, welches nicht dazugeh?rt, nehmen.
Hinter wen man kommt (wen man ertappt), der ist der Stadt zur Bu?e
(Strafe) verfallen und soll f?r jede Wurst zwei Schillinge Denariorum
(24 Pfennige) zahlen, so viele wie er gemacht hat (d. h. f?r jede
gemachte Wurst, nicht f?r jede Wurstart), und er soll sich an die
Gesetze der Stadt halten, so lange, bis die Meister f?r ihn bitten
(vor dem Rat um Einstellung des Strafverfahrens) und er dem Handwerk
(als Organisation) seine Bu?e gegeben hat.
Here is a quick Google translation:
Even should they sausages, liver sausages and other sausages of pure,
fresh meat, which is neither finnig (without fins) or convertible
(gammelig, addressed), and they should not Milzen, hearts, kidneys or
other Ungef?hrde (all somehow Dangerous, toxic substances) or foreign
meat, which is not something to take.
Hinter wen man kommt (wen man ertappt), der ist der Stadt zur Bu?e
(Strafe) verfallen und soll f?r jede Wurst zwei Schillinge Denariorum
(24 Pfennige) zahlen, so viele wie er gemacht hat (d. h. f?r jede
gemachte Wurst, nicht f?r jede Wurstart), und er soll sich an die
Gesetze der Stadt halten, so lange, bis die Meister f?r ihn bitten
(vor dem Rat um Einstellung des Strafverfahrens) und er dem Handwerk
(als Organisation) seine Bu?e gegeben hat. Behind whom they come
(whom we caught), which is the city of penance (penalty) and will be
forfeited for each sausage two shillings Denariorum (24 cents) pay,
as many as he has made (ie made for each sausage, not for any
Wurstart), and he will focus on the laws of the city, until the
master of asking him (before the Council to adjust the criminal), and
he crafts (organization) has given his penance.
The website is quoted from a German language book
Michael Kirchschlager, "Th?ringer Weihnachtsb?chlein", ISBN
978-3-934277-17-5 or "Thuringian Christmas book"
Ranvaig
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 22:05:16 +0000 (GMT)
From: emilio szabo <emilio_szabo at yahoo.it>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Historian finds oldest recipe for German
bratwurst
To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
There are similar regulations in the Nuremberg "Polizeiordnungen aus
dem XIII bis XV Jahrhundert", published in 1861 by Baader, page 235
and 236:
http://books.google.com/books?
id=exlDGH1L32cC&printsec=frontcover&dq=intitle:polizeiordnungen&num=100&
as_brr=1&hl=de#PPA235,M1
Emilio
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:57:07 -0600 (CST)
From: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Problems with sausage
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
> I'm really enjoying making and researching sausage and I want to do more
> presentations and feasts using cased sausage. But I've run into problems.
> The main problem is that every sausage I've made has been too lean and
> a little dry. For 12th Night I even added lard into the mix to get enough
> fat into them but all that happened was once cooked the outer surface
> was greasy and they were still too lean.
The sausage recipe from Granada that Brighid redacted and that I cooked
for my first feast came out beautiful, and certainly the right blend of
fat and lean-- perhaps the beef suet and the cheese help. I webbed it
here:
http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/cooking/conviviencia/sausage.html
--
-- Jenne Heise / Jadwiga Zajaczkowa
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:52:12 -0600
From: Michael Gunter <countgunthar at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sausage results
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
> Sounds wonderful. I don't suppose you'd be willing to share the
> recipe, would you??? Kiri (whose mouth is watering!!)
I thought I'd posted it before but here it is:
Zervelat
Das Kochbuch der Sabrina Welserin (c 1553)
Wie man zerwulawirstlach machen soll Erstlich nempt 4 pfund
schweinflesch vom zepfflin/ vnnd 2 pfund speck, das last klainhacken
vnnd thiet 6 lott saltz darain/ ain pfund geriben kes, .3 lot
pffeffer, 3 lott umber, wen es gehackt jst, so knetten das als darein
rerlach 3 lott, ain ? lott negellach, ain halb lott muscatnus, zway
lott zuker, die derm mus man saubermachen vnd nachmals gilben, darf
man nit gar ain ? lott saffera, man muss y binden auff vaiden
seitten, auch vnngeferlich ain quertlin Frisch wasser darangiessen,
man mus auch das saltz, jmber, pfeffer nit gar darainthon, sol les
vor versuchen vnnd darnach machen, man soll sy sieden vnngefarlich
als 2 air, sas gewirtz vnnd saltz mus man dareinton nach aines guten
gedoncken, man mus zuuor versuchen.
Translation by Mistress Clara von Ulm
"First take four pounds of pork from the tender area of the leg and
two pounds of bacon. Let this be finely chopped and add to it three
ounces of salt, one pound of grated cheese, one and one half ounces
of pepper and one and one half ounces of ginger. When it is chopped
then knead the following into it, one and one half ounces cinnamon,
one fourth ounce of cloves, one fourth ounce of nutmeg and one ounce
of sugar. The sausage skins must be cleaned and subsequently colored
yellow, for which one needs not quite one fourth ounce of saffron.
Tie it up on both ends and pour in approximately one quart of fresh
water. The entire amount of salt, ginger and pepper should not be
added, taste it first and season it accordingly. It should be cooked
about as long as to cook eggs. The seasoning and the salt must be put
into it according to one's own discretion, it must be tried first."
Gunthar
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 10:00:45 -0400
From: Elaine Koogler <kiridono at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Terminology/substitute questions
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
There is also a recipe in Platina for farcimina, made of salt pork, beef,
parmesan cheese and eggs. I made it for a feast I did some years back.
It was pretty good.
Kiri
Farcimina - Sausages
Recipe By : Platina--De honesta voluptate
Servings :8
1 pound Beef
1/3 cup salt pork
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 1/2 teaspoons ginger, black pepper, cinnamon
2 teaspoons fennel
1 piece saffron
2 teaspoons salt
sausage casing
2 each eggs
1. Grind beef, fat and cheese together.
2. To the mixture, add eggs, salt, spices and saffron, and mix well.
3. Stuff mixture into casings.
4. Use immediately or smoke sausages to make them last longer.
Original:
Veal meat and soft pork fat are well ground and grated aged rich cheese and
well ground spices. Beat together two or three eggs, as much salt as is
required, and saffron for color; all this you will mix together and after it
is blended, stuff it into an intestine that has been well washed and
stretched thin. These should be cooked in a cauldron. They are only good for
two days. But they can be kept for fifteen days or more if you add more salt
and spices or dry them out in smoke.
NOTE: I took this from an earlier translation of Platina than the current,
much better one by Mary Jane Milham. However, as it is such a simple
recipe, I doubt that it would be much different.
Kiri
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:55:42 -0500
From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Farcimina
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
<<< Question on ingredients for Farcimina sausage:
What is a "piece" of saffron" - just 1 strand?
Gwen >>>
Milham's translation of the original says, "...and saffron so as to make
everything saffron colored."
Martino says, "..make them yellow with some saffron."
Bear
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 09:30:51 -0500
From: Michael Gunter <countgunthar at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bacon
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
<<< The translation does not specifically call for pork
fat, but salt pork would probably fit the recipe.
Bear >>>
After much experimentation with making Zervelat last year with sometimes very unfortunate results, I have found that pork belly is definately the way to go. I have also added regular thick cut smoked bacon to the recipe with wonderful results. But you definitely need the pork belly to give the correct fat "mouth-feel" that we are used to with good sausages.
Gunthar
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 10:39:58 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bacon
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
On Jun 9, 2009, at 10:30 AM, Michael Gunter wrote:
<<< After much experimentation with making Zervelat last year with sometimes very unfortunate results, I have found that pork belly is definitely the way to go. I have also added regular thick cut smoked bacon to the recipe with wonderful results. But you definitely need the pork belly to give the correct fat "mouth-feel" that we are used to with good sausages. >>>
I would add to that (from my own sometimes less-than-stellar
experience) that no matter how new, sharp, clean and cold your grinder
is, and how cold your fat pork is, it is better to chop it with a
knife if possible, rather than grinding it. The lean meat is less of a
problem in that regard, but since the fat is basically oil (albeit a
saturated fat that is more or less solid at room temperature) stored
in tiny little bags, for a moist sausage you want to disturb these as
little as possible, and burst as few of the little membrane-pockets of
fat as possible in the chopping process.
Adamantius
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 11:46:45 -0500
From: Michael Gunter <countgunthar at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bacon
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
<<< I would add to that (from my own sometimes less-than-stellar
experience) that no matter how new, sharp, clean and cold your grinder
is, and how cold your fat pork is, it is better to chop it with a
knife if possible, rather than grinding it.
Adamantius >>>
Good point. One thing I did when I displayed Zervelat at Kingdom A&S
was show two versions of the sausage. For one I used a modern
grinder and sausage stuffer and the other I chopped by hand, using
period knives and stuffed with a stuffing funnel.
There wasn't a lot of difference between the two but I wanted to show
what hand minced was like compared to grinding. I also wanted to present
a sausage as close to period as possible.
One of the most amusing comments given to me was, "Yeah, we liked
the homemade ones a lot better than the store bought."
Um...they were both homemade. Just one done by machine and one by hand.
Gunthar
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:05:22 +0200
From: "Susanne Mayer" <susanne.mayer5 at chello.at>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Bacon
To: <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
I looked up the german Text, and also checked the other sausage recipes.
Speck/bacon in modern German is ususally smoked and salted bacon from
different parts of the pig like the belly (more fat, less meat) or made from
the roast (more meat and lean). Or white bacon which is like lardo only fat
(but it usually stated white bacon if it should be used).
If you use fresh pork belly you will get a different taste as the bacon does
impart a salty, lightly smoked flavor.
But it could also be green bacon: raw and not smoked.
So I would try it with differen sorts and adjust it to my taste.
And I did find a modern version wich resembles the welser recipe calling
either for bacon or belly and lean pork and lean beef.
500g pork 300g beef and 200g bacon or belly. Grobe Bauernbratwurst
http://www.rezeptesammlung.net/einkochen_wurst.htm
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speck
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacon
Katharina
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 06:34:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louise Smithson <helewyse at yahoo.com>
To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sca-cooks Digest, another sausage question
The fat in sausage is there to provide moisture BUT there is a huge difference between pork (or bacon) fat and lard. The one melts slowly and retains it's essential shape. It releases it's fat slowly, plus it is in discrete lumps within the sausage (this would be lard and suet), the other will essentially coat the outside of the lean meat particles and melt quickly. Even with the same amount of pork fat in a recipe the end result of chopped fat vs lard will be very different.
Yes Scappi has references to sausages cooked in wine.
In the menus from the first service you often see the item:
Sausages cooked in wine, cut in slices
but an awful lot of other things are cooked in wine too, and they most often tend to be salted/dried products e.g. ham, salted pork tongue, salted beef tongue etc.
Now the word for sausage used in this context is: Salciccione.
When we look through the recipe section we find that the recipe for fresh sausages is:
Per far mortatelle di carne magra di cigotto di porco
domesticon in volto nella rete:
(translation here http://www.geocities.com/helewyse/stuffing.html#2)
with no mention of salciccione. The method suggested for cooking these sausages is:
"then one cooks them on the grill or in a frying pan with liquid
lard" no mention of boiling.
At the end of the recipe the author states that "Of the mortatelle
and other salami that one makes from the said meat I will not talk as it
has never been my job/profession." Indicating that the production of a cured pork sausage is not something he is familiar with.
Now as far as the cooking recipes , recipe 113 in the second book is:
Per cuocere ogni sorte di carni salate & salami and recipe 114 is Per cuocere ogni sorte di salami di porco.
Which certainly seem to indicate a cured pork sausage NOT a fresh one. Essentially the recipe boils down to:
Soak in water, boil in water and then boil in wine OR soak in water then boil in water OR soak in water then boil in water and wine (mixed).
So the answer is maybe.
Admittedly I have used this as justification for cooking sausage in wine and serving them cold for a feast. But the evidence is skimpy at best.
Helewyse
Majority of responses snipped for space.
Aldyth asked:
<<< Do you have to add pork fat? Would lard work?
Is there any pre16th C references to cooking sausages in alcohol >>>
Johnnae responded:
<<< You might look at Scappi. >>>
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roxann Hatch <wilhemina3 at yahoo.com>
To: Christiane <christianetrue at earthlink.net>, Cooks within the SCA
<sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Currywurst, and what's your favorite medieval
wurst?
My absolute favorite is the Zervelat recipe from Sabina Welserin. My entire
Barony expects it anytime I have a gathering of any sort, SCA related or not.
Hilde
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:05:49 -0500
From: Michael Gunter <dookgunthar at hotmail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Currywurst, and what's your favorite medieval
wurst?
<<< Good my lady Hilde: I took a look at the recipe and it calls for
cheese. What kind of cheese do you use?
Selene >>>
When I was redacting the recipe I noted the instructions just said to use "cheese" but in another recipe "Parmesian" was specifically noted. So I figured they just called for a common German cheese. The instructions also call for the cheese to be grated so I guessed it would be a hard cheese. Well, the hardest cheese I could find in the period and location was a cave-aged Emmentalier. It's a nice sharp cheese that grates wonderfully.
Gunthar
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2011 18:58:13 -0500
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bratwurst recipe
How about Das Kuchbuch der Sabina Welserin
(Germany, 16th century - V. Armstrong, trans.)
25 If you would make good bratwurst. Take four pounds of pork and four
pounds of beef and chop it finely. After that mix with it two pounds
of bacon and chop it together and pour approximately one quart of
water on it. Also add salt and pepper thereto, however you like to
eat it, or if you would like to have some good herbs , you could take
some sage and some marjoram, then you have good bratwurst.
Or from Koge Bog
(Denmark, 1616 - Martin Forest, trans.)
XXI - To make bratvurst. Take the meat off the shoulder and cut it
into pieces. Pull the ligaments well off. Thereafter take a third part
good tender beef and chop well small. Thereafter chop the two parts
pork meat with the beef so that they are well mixed. Mix it well iwth
salt, crushed pepper, half-crushed nutmeg flowers, marjoram, thyme and
danish cumin. The sausages should be made in the biggest pork
intestines. When they are filled they should be put into clean water
seething over the fire, and then quickly be taken out again and be
hung overnight next to a warm oven to dry. And hten be hung in the
smoker in cold smoke. This way they are cured and can be eaten raw.
http://medievalcookery.blogspot.com/2010/01/medieval-hot-dog-stand.html
has a discussion on bratwurst where Doc noted
"There are a number of recipes for sausages in "Das Kuchbuch der
Sabina Welserin" (1553), including one for "prattwirst". Alia Atlas
translated that to bratwurst.
[That's the recipe quoted above.]
There was also this article in November 2007 Reuter's where it
mentioned:
Historian finds oldest recipe for bratwurst
(Reuters) - A hobby historian has discovered the oldest known recipe
for German sausage, a list of ingredients for Thuringian bratwurst
nearly 600 years old.
According to the 1432 guidelines, Thuringian sausage makers had to use
only the purest, unspoiled meat and were threatened with a fine of 24
pfennigs -- a day's wages -- if they did not, a spokesman for the
German Bratwurst Museum said Wednesday.
Medieval town markets in Germany had committees charged with
monitoring the quality of produce. Thuringian bratwursts, which are
made of beef and pork, are symbols of Germany's cultural heritage and
ubiquitous snacks at football matches.
Historian Hubert Erzmann, 75, found the ancient recipe, inscribed with
pen and ink in a heavy tome of parchment, earlier this year while
doing research in an archive in the eastern town of Weimar, museum
spokesman Thomas Maeuer said.
"The discovery shows that there were already consumer protection laws
in the Middle Ages," he said.
The instructions go on display Thursday in the Bratwurst Museum near
the eastern city of Erfurt, Thuringia's capital. November 2007
(I did not find a English news article with the actual recipe, but the
museum is here http://www.bratwurstmuseum.net/ )
Hope this helps
Johnnae
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 23:35:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Schneider <schneiderdan at ymail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bratwurst recipe
One thing about the recipe from "Koge Bog": in the Scandinavian languages, "Kommen" (the word in the original) would be caraway seed, not cumin (which is "spiskumin", for those who are interested). The first time I came to Sweden, I made a rather... interesting... batch of chili for my in-laws through not knowing that...
Dan
--- On Sat, 2/5/11, Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com> wrote:
Or? from Koge Bog
(Denmark, 1616 - Martin Forest, trans.)
XXI - To make bratvurst. Take the meat off the shoulder and
cut it into pieces. Pull the ligaments well off. Thereafter
take a third part good tender beef and chop well small. <snip>
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2011 13:51:46 -0500
From: Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Nutmeg, Mace, and Other Parts of the Plant
On Feb 7, 2011, at 1:02 PM, Sam Wallace wrote:
<<< In the thread about Bratwurst recipes, one of the recipes Johnnae gave
included "half-crushed nutmeg flowers." I wonder was this a euphemism
for mace or if it really was the (dried) flowers, partially crushed
and then added to the mix. Likewise, I found a recipe which called for
nutmeg leaves and am aware of the fruit being used in preserves, but
have been able to get any of these. Does anyone have a good source of
these nutmeg plant products?
Guillaume >>>
This was in the 1616 Koge Bog translation. I suspect that it might
have been mace by that time.
The original is Danish so it may be a translation problem too.
I don't recall ever coming across nutmeg flowers and given that nutmeg
was coming from Indonesia and Banda islands near there in that period,
I can't see how they transported or would have cared to bring flowers
back.
http://www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Myri_fra.html says--
"Some Euro pean languages name mace flower of nutmeg (German Muskat
bl?te, Swedish muskot blomma, Czech mu?k?tov? kv?t or French fleur
de muscade). Although this is botanically incorrect, the mace was
supposed to be the flower of the nutmeg tree during the Middle Ages;
even Marco Polo propagated this error in the 14th century."
Johnnae
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 11:32:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Schneider <schneiderdan at ymail.com>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Nutmeg, Mace, and Other Parts of the Plant
Yup, it's mace. The original has "muskateblommor", which is close to the same as today ("muskatblomme" is the singular in Danish, I *think* the plural would be "blommor"). Nutmeg in modern Danish is "muskatn?d".
Dan
--- On Mon, 2/7/11, Johnna Holloway <johnnae at mac.com> wrote:
<<< This was in the 1616? Koge Bog
translation. I suspect that it might have been mace by that time.
The original is Danish so it may be a translation problem too. >>>
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 07:38:30 +0100 (BST)
From: Volker Bach <carlton_bach at yahoo.de>
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] air-dried sausages
--- Stefan li Rous <StefanliRous at austin.rr.com> schrieb am Mo, 5.9.2011:
To which Giano replied:
<<< With more preparation time to get good at it,
air-dried sausages. >>>
Any particular recipes you have in mind, Giano? We've
talked about sausages many times on this list, but I'm not
sure I remember any air-dried sausages.? They would
also seem to make good camping food, either by themselves or
added to other foods, since they last without
refrigeration.
================
There's one in Sabina Welserin, with parallels elsewhere, that I had in mind since I recently did a translation for my landsknecht food project. But I'm sure similar ones can be found elsewhere.
Welt jr g?t wirst z?m sallat machen
So nempt 10 pf?nd schweinin fleisch, 5 pf?nd oxenfleisch, allweg zwen tritail schweinin, ain tail oxenflesch/ das wer 15 pf?nd, soll man 16 lott saltz/ vnnd 5 lott pfeffer, soll ain wenig erstossen sein, nit gantz, vnnd so das flesch gehackt jst/ thut man erst 2 pf?nd speck darein, klain gewirfflet
geschniten, darnach das schweinin flesch faist jst, mag man minder oder mer nemen, man soll den speck vom r?ggen nemen vnnd nit vom wamen, vnnd das s? woll jberainandergetr?ckt werden, ?e er man s? tricknet, ye pesser/ hencken s? jn st?ben oder jn k?chin, doch nit jn ra?ch/ vnnd nit z? nach z?m offen, das der speck nit ergang, solchs soll jm z?nementen mon geschechen, vnnd soll man das geheck woll vnnd hert aintr?cken, so beleiben die wirst lang g?t/ vnnd soll ain yedliche w?rst oben vnnd vnndten z?binden, a?ch bendel lassen an beden ordten, damit man die auffhencken soll, vnnd soll man die all 2 tag vmbkerenn, das vnndertail jber, vnnd wan s? gar a?stricknet seind, schlagst jn ain t?ch vnnd legts jn kasten.
If you wish to make good sausages to use in salad
Take ten pounds of pork, five pounds of oxmeat, always two parts pork to one part beef, that makes 15 pounds. To that, take 16 lot of salt and five of pepper, which shouldbe pounded a bit, but not completely. When the meat is chopped, you first add two pounds of fat bacon diced small. You may take more or less, depending on how fat the pork is. Take your bacon from the back and not the belly. And they (the sausages) must be pressed together well, and the more you dry them, the better. Hang them up bin the living room or kitchen, but not in the smoke, and not too close to the oven so the bacon does not melt. This should be done in the waxing moon, and if the chopped meat is dried well and hard, the sausages will stay good for a long time. And each sausage must be tied above and below, and the bands must be left on to hang them up with. They must be turned over every day, the bottom end up, and when they are dried out completely, you wrap them in cloth
and store them in a box.
(Sabina Welserin #23)
Volker
<the end>