fish-msg - 1/17/08 Medieval fish dishes. Fish in the SCA. Recipes. Medieval fried fish. Whale and porpoise. NOTE: See also the files: seafood-msg, salt-msg, salt-comm-art, stockfish-msg, drying-foods-msg, pickled-foods-msg, fish-pies-msg, frogs-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com> To: sca-cooks at eden.com Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 11:11:51 -0400 Subject: Re: sca-cooks fish A couple of cooks, Michael F. Gunter included, wrote: > > I'd like to try some medieval fish recipes and this sounds good. > > > I was planning on making waffres at Coronation but they got changed to > something else in the planning process. Waffres are basically a tuna or > salmon mousse in pastry. I'm hoping to do them at my dream "small intimate > feast of 200. > > > Unfortunately, since I am in Ansteorra I am unlikely to ever get fish at > > a feast. (meat is good. vegatables are what meat eats. fish is just > > another vegatable. etc.) > > I'm hoping to do some fish dishes in the future, but it's just so expensive! > > > Anyone have any good recipes using salted fish? I've never had any and > > since that was a staple in parts of medieval europe, I'd like to try > > some. > > Once again something that was going into Coronation but was cut because my > source of salt cod was going for $8 a pound! > > > Stefan li Rous > > Gunthar How recently was the price of $8/lb quoted? It wouldn't have been right before Easter, would it? You might consider checking it again. Also, for what it's worth, a pound of salt cod, soaked to desalt, weighs in at around two and a quarter pounds before cooking. Adamantius, whose Province includes the Fulton Fish Market. From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com> To: sca-cooks at eden.com Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 16:13:17 -0400 Subject: Re: sca-cooks fish Angelina Capozello wrote: > Hmmm, here's a question, what did medieval fisherman and sailors eat? We > all know the later centuries of British naval fare (biscuit, salt beef or > pork, peas, grog, etc.) Our Canton of Ivyeinrust is holding a sea > collegium in the near future, and I'd like to help with the cooking. > Any recipes for salt fish, etc., or sources where I can find recipes would > be greatly appreciated! > > Rafaela di Napoli It seems likely that sailors would eat such fish as they either couldn't sell or wouldn't keep well without extensive preparation. So, until fairly recently, on the Mediterranean coast, sailors ate things like bouilliabaise, traditionally made from a variety of fish, some rather bony and/or fatty. The dish appears to be far older than the comparatively recent addition of tomatoes might suggest. The rest of the ingredients sound to me like a pretty classic medieval fish pottage: olive oil, leeks, fennel, wine, oranges, mixed fish and saffron, served on sops of toast. Adamantius From: Aldyth at aol.com Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:26:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks fish In a message dated 97-04-15 03:01:06 EDT, Clarissa writes: << 1) lots of folks don't like fish - at least at all the events in Ansteorra and the East and Atlantia where I have seen fish served it has been the least eaten dish at the event. 2) bones! 3) I don't much like fish I do like shellfish but the folks I know with shellfish allergies are violently allergic (even the smell can get 'em) so I have never cooked it for a feast. >> Aldyth here. I have been to MANY feasts where fish was served. I said served, not eaten. I will cook fish for feasts, and have. When trout is donated for our Hunters Feast each winter, it is cooked and almost all eaten. I recall another feast which featured seafood (Spanish, I believe) and one course was whole mackerel. I think the problem I found with the mackerel might be the problem with fish in general. They were cooked whole (as per the recipe) and served "naked." Most sea dwelling fish have a dark fat vein that if not removed makes them "fishy" tasting. I have no doubt that our esteemed ancestors thought that fish was supposed to taste that way. Our modern palates have evolved, and unless we have prefer that fishy taste, we seem to stay away from it. How many of us would really use liquamen as the Romans did, on toast, and in every dish they made..(almost). Freshwater fish don't taste as fishy when prepared, but you still have to think about that fat vein in most of them. I also don't usually do fish (unless specifically asked) for a feast because of the expense involved. Wyoming is expensive to have fresh fish trucked into. I have a supplier for hake, but at $5 a pound it is prohibitive. Mistress Aldyth Aldyth at aol.com From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 01:57:03 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - fried fish and other foods Mark Harris wrote: > I'm assuming you are talking about coating the fish in flour or batter > and frying it in grease or oil. (like British fish and chips?) > > So, my question for anyone is, Is such fried food period? I'm wondering > about other meats too, not just fish. I thought fried chicken was from > the American South but I'm not sure. There are late-period recipes for frying chicken, but it doesn't seem like crisp was what was being aimed for. It seems to be more of a situation where the the chicken is browned in a frying-pan, and thesauce ingredients are adeded to finish cooking. By modern standards it is really braised. In answer to the inevitable next question, I am only awake at this hour because my wife was having a computer problem, and may be able to find the original source in the morning. > If so, what was the cooking medium in period? Olive oil? lard? fish oil? > Did they use breading or just cook it in the oil? Seems as though the commonest method would be to fry with no coating at all, using olive oil or "whyte grees": effectively lard or rendered suet. Taillevent mentions frying certain fish dishes with no coating of flour, presumably he wouldn't mention this unless the habit existed. The recipe for cuminade de poissons in Le Menagier de Paris calls for the fish to be fried before adding it to the sauce...that I have a redaction for already on disk, which I will post in the a.m. if anyone wishes. > Stefan li Rous Hot cha cha, Adamantius From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com> Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 10:44:14 -0400 Subject: SC - Fish recipe, Was "Fried Foods" Uduido at aol.com wrote: > Please do post the recipe! :-) You are right on the button about not coating > the fish with flour or whatever. So far as chicken is concerned, if you fry > it slowly with the SKIN attached it developes a nice crusty exterior without > the addition of extraneous material. The main secret to frying without a > coating is to constantly monitor the fat's temperature and make sure that it > does not rise to a level where the food is dessicated or burned before the > interior is cooked. > Lord Ras Okay, here's my redaction for Le Menagier's cuminade de poisson. You'll notice that it allows for the fish to be baked rather than fried. That is only because I was originally serving 400 with this recipe, before I cut it down. It was served at East Kingdom Twelfth Night, A.S. XXIX. Enjoy! Adamantius _______________________________________________________________________ Cuminade of Fish Poultry flavoured with cumin. Cut it into pieces and put it to cook in a little wine, then fry it in fat; then take a little bread dipped in your broth and take first ginger and cumin, moisten them with verjuice, bray and strain and put all together with meat or chicken broth, and then color it either with saffron or with eggs or yolks run through a strainer and dropped slowly into the pottage, after it is taken off the fire. Item, best it is to make it with milk as aforesaid and then to bray your bread after your spices, but behoveth it to boil the milk first lest it burn, and after the pottage is finished let the milk be put into wine (meseemeth this is not needful) and fry it. Many there be that fry it not, nathless it tastes best so. (Bread is the thickening and afterwards he saith eggs, which is another thickening, and one should suffice, as is said in the chapter concerning the creton'. Verjuice and wine.--If you would make your pottage with milk behoveth not to use wine or verjuice.) "Commine" for a fish day. Fry your fish, then peel almonds and bray them and dilute with pure' or fish broth and make milk of almonds; but cow's milk is more appetising, though not so healthy for the sick; and for the rest do as above. Item, on a meat day, if you cannot have cow's milk, you may make the dish of milk of almonds and meat as above.=94 Le Menagier de Paris, trans. Eileen Power; Harcourt, Brace New York 1928 I envision this dish as something like fish fillets in an almond - curry flavored cream sauce. Almond milk made with cream or half-and-half is appropriate for a fish-day, and eliminates the need for any additional thickener. Since neither Le Menagier nor his source, Taillevent, mentions a garnish of any kind, I've decided to cheat and top the whole shebang with fried onions; both a consistently appropriate medieval garnish for pale pottages, and a way to introduce a flavor I feel will improve the dish. The dish is intended as a spoon-food, so the fish should be either in chunks or soft enough to break up easily. For eight servings: 2 pounds white, lean ("non-fishy") fillets or steaks, such as cod, bass, monkfish, etc. oil, butter, lard, or bacon fat 1/4 pound finely ground blanched almonds (1 cup) 1 pint half and half 1 small onion, finely grated or pureed (capricious and unnecessary but good) 1-inch chunk ginger root, grated or 1 1/2 tsp ground ginger 3-4 Tbs ground cumin seed 1 pinch saffron, salt and pepper Season the fish with salt and pepper and either saute or bake at 400 degrees F in a greased pan. Vegetable oil is best for this. Cook for about eight minutes per inch of thickness of your fish, til fish is barely opaque inside and flaky. Keep the fish warm. Meanwhile, cook the onion and ginger over low heat in a saucepan, with a little more oil. When they are soft and aromatic, but no longer volatile (you'll know it when you see it), add cumin and saffron. Do not brown. Add half and half and mix thoroughly. Raise heat a bit and bring it to a boil. Beat with a whip and add the almonds in a steady stream. Bring back to a boil, stirring frequently. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add more cumin if you feel like it. You can blenderize and/or strain the sauce if you want it smoother and/or thinner. Pour it over the fish and mess it forth. From: gfrose at cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 10:07:20 -0500 Subject: Re: SC - fried fish and other foods Hi, Katerine here. Stefan asked about fried fish in period. I don't pay as much attention to fish recipes as I do to others, so I can't speak offhand with authority to what English recipes _did't_ do, I am fairly certain the medieval corpus includes recipes for fish fried on a skillet ( unbreaded) using (but not precisely in) olive oil. - -- Katerine/Terry From: gfrose at cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 10:10:06 -0500 Subject: Re: SC - fried fish and other foods Hi, Katerine here. Adamantius writes: >Seems as though the commonest method would be to fry with no coating at >all, using olive oil or "whyte grees": effectively lard or rendered >suet. Taillevent mentions frying certain fish dishes with no coating of >flour, presumably he wouldn't mention this unless the habit existed. Are you certain that either lard or suet was ever used? I ask, because all records show virtually no consumption of fish outside of days of abstinence, when both lard and suet would be forbidden. - -- Katerine/Terry From: "Philip W. Troy" <troy at asan.com> Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 13:21:20 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - fried fish and other foods Ron Martino Jr wrote: > Batter coated deep frying, agemono (tempura, etc.), was introduced to > Nippon by Europeans in the 16th century, and the Japanese took the idea > and made it their own, as they do with many things. I don't know any > details, though, such as what the Portuguese were frying, what was used > for the batter, or what oils were used. There are various Iberian versions of the shrimp fritter that still exist today, made from little brown shrimp too small to be individually peeled and deveined. Kind of like whitebait pancake in Britain. The fish being too small to individually batter and fry, you just mix them into a batter and fry it as a cake. That may well be what the Portuguese version of Tempura would have looked like. By the way, the word "tempura" seems to be a variant on a Latin term, and not a Japanese word at all. It may well be a corruption of "tempora" as referring to the time of Lent, or possibly that it is fried for a certain time, and no more. I don't have the information in front of me or I would tell you more. Adamantius From: L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt <liontamr at postoffice.ptd.net> Date: Wed, 23 Apr 1997 18:30:19 -0500 (CDT) Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #75 I have to contribute a favorite tale of a traditional wierd fish dish: Stargazy Pie, made with a regular double pie crust, whole fresh Sardines, Gammon, and Saffrom Milk. The heads of the fish are left to poke out of the crust, staring upwards (thus "Stargazy"). Classify it under *Things that make ya go HMMM?* Top that, whydoncha! Aoife From: "Karen Farris" <farrisk at macom.com> Date: Fri, 09 May 97 08:57:37 EDT Subject: SC - Fried Whiting I found a set of thin English Heritage books on a recent trip to the motherland. This one is from 'Food and Cooking in 16th Century Britain: History and Recipes' by Peter Brears. He cites the source as 'The Boke of Cokery' by Richard Pynson with Temple Bar London 1500. He furthermore states the only known copy of this work is in the collection of the Marquis of Bath, Longleat House. I hope this helps the battered fish debate and am glad to be able to lay my hands on them after recently moving to Dragonspine. For .95p each I couldnt go wrong with the purchase, but am curious to know if there are any errors with his redaction. Lillian Clare du Chateauroux To fry Whitings: First flay them and wash them clean and seale them, that doon, lap them in floure and fry them in Butter and oyle. Then to serve them, mince apples or onions and fry them, then put them into a vessel with white wine, vergious, salt, pepper, clove and mace, and boile them together on the Coles, and serve it upon the Whitings. Brears redacts the recipe thusly, 8 oz apples or onions, minced butter or oil for frying 1/2 pt white wine 1 tbls wine vinegar 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 1/4 tsp ground mace a pinch of ground cloves 1-1 1/2 lb whiting fillets Fry the apples or onions in a little butter or oil in a small sauce pan until thoroughly cooked, but not browned. Stir in the wine, vinegar, salt, pepper, and spices. Allow to cook for a few minutes, then keep hot ready for use. Remove any skin from the fillets, dust them with flour, fry in butter or oil for 15 minutes and serve with sauce. From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 17:22:01 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - Fried Whiting Terry Nutter wrote: > Hmmmm. I know when Pynson was -- he was a printer, not a cook -- and the > language of the recipe is suspiciously modern. I suspect it's been updated. > That said: Pynson set _Noble Boke off Cookry_ in print; the only surviving > copy of the Pynson printing is, you guessed it, in the Longleat collection. > I suspect this may be it. There is no recipe in the manuscript version (or I > should say, in the appalling Napier edition thereof) with "whitings" in > the title. But the title may have been modernized with the recipe. Perhaps > someone who knows fish better than I can suggest a medieval equivalent? If > so, I can look up quickly and find out whether this is indeed an NBoC recipe, > and if so, provide the NBoC-via-Napier version, which may tell us something. Yes, it does sound a bit idiomatic of modern speech, doesn't it? The recipe for mortrews of fish in Utilis Coquinario calls for, among others, merlyng. This is probably a cognate of merlin, which is still a French term for whiting. Also, whiting being a rather bland, soft fish, it is perfect for mortrews (or as perfect as any fish can be for mortrews). Taillevent uses the term "merluz" for a similar, though slightly larger fish. The whiting known in England is the Northern Whiting, a cousin of the various hakes, which are in turn related to cod. They are distinguished by relatively large pectoral fins like wings, small scales, and a weird cartilage rib-cage, like a box, in an otherwise ordinary bony-fish skeleton. They get up to about two or three pounds these days, which indicates nothing about what they may have weighed in period. Adamantius Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 10:04:54 -700 MST From: "Jeanne Stapleton" <jstaplet at adm.law.du.edu> Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks fish > Stefan, > I don't cook fish for events for a variety of reasons: > > 1) lots of folks don't like fish - at least at all the events in > Ansteorra and the East and Atlantia where I have seen fish served it > has been the least eaten dish at the event. 2) bones! 3) I don't > much like fish > > I do like shellfish but the folks I know with shellfish allergies > are violently allergic (even the smell can get 'em) so I have never > cooked it for a feast. > > Clarissa ***WARNING*** Non-redacted-from-period-source but doable at SCA feast fish-recipe-that-even-fighters-will-eat about to follow: Fish rarely gets served at SCA feast, and I can understand why; Clarissa admirably summed up the reasons above. HOWEVER: I do have a signature dish that feasters scrape the pans on and I've had fighters ask me for the recipe. At a Coronet feast in Oertha, all of it was consumed and there were leftovers on the Boeuf Bourguignonne. HALIBUT BERENGARIA For every "panful" (rectangular baking dish--about six nice-sized fillets or chunks) of halibut (the real catch: in Oertha, I could get fresh frozen halibut cheaply!--other firm white fish work quite well, also), pour over sauce made of: 1 cup sour cream 1 cup melted butter 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese Cover dish with foil and bake about 40-45 minutes at 350 (depending on size of oven and number of pans). Remove foil for the last five minutes of baking time to allow sauce to brown and get that nice cheesy crust. It is not low in calories nor cholesterol. jstaplet at adm.law.du.edu University of Denver Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:11:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Uduido at aol.com Subject: SC - Re: sca-cooks fish-longish << ***WARNING*** Non-redacted-from-period-source but doable at SCA feast fish-recipe-that-even-fighters-will-eat about to follow: Fish rarely gets served at SCA feast, and I can understand why; Clarissa admirably summed up the reasons above. HOWEVER: I do have a signature dish that feasters scrape the pans on and I've had fighters ask me for the recipe. >> Another way which was successful for me with the results that there was nary a piece left was to dip whiting fillets in beer batter and deep fry it. I added ground galengal and cubebs to the batter. The only complaint I had was from someone who was allergic to fish and didn't read the menu. I try to serve a fish dish at every feast I do. The reactions are always the same. If they like fish, they love it. If they don't, they hate it. As far as shellfish goes. A bushel of clams was donated for a feast. We steamed them and sent them around to each table for anyone who would like them. Once again they all disappeared. I think that serving fish at a feast for the most part is frowned upon because the responces are so emotional both yea and nay from the diners that most cooks just don't want to deal with it. My feelings are serve it. If people don't want it they can always eat off-board ( meaning bring their own food) or eat something else they do like. I NEVER withhold an item from the menu just because I don't personally like it. Mundanely, I make the best potato Salad (or so I've been told. :-)). It gives me the dry heaves just to smell it! :-0 Lord Ras Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 20:04:27 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #218 L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt wrote: > Aoife > P.S. Have you ever "Made a pudding in a breast/belly of __fill in the blank___?" I remember an extremely late or post-period recipe for "To Bake a(n) ____ (some kinda fish) With A French Puddynge in His Bellye", if I remember correctly. I have also boned out a leg of lamb and filled it with a stuffing of the mixture that goes into a haggis. Does that count? My all-time favorite one of these is in Isaak Walton's "The Compleat Angler" (Roughly contemporary to Sir Kenelm Digby or the Diaries of Samuel Pepys, ~1669 or so). It involves roasting a whole pike, drawn through the gills, with a pound of butter, the juice of several Seville oranges, some lemons, pickled oysters and/or anchovies, the liver of the fish, pureed through a sieve, claret wine, and an optional clove of garlic. This turns into a sauce while the fish is roasted, and the sauce pours out of the fish when you cut into it. Adamantius Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 20:30:47 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Re: SC - Novice Only Redacti A quick note on what "draw" meant for that perch.... "Take a preche, and drawe him in (th)e throte" To draw would be to gut. You can gut a fish, basically, two or three ways. The classic is to cut from claspers to head, along the bottom edge of the fish. (Where you cut sole, I dunno :-) The other is to gut the fish through the gill holes, and not notch the belly. I believe the Pike recipe Adamantius wrote about is done that way, and the belly stays intact. Good for stuffing. I suspect that the "throte" means to slit the belly and remove the grotesque bits. A classic recipe from my childhood, written in a period style.... I'm challenging myself today.... (Comments welcomed) "Blue fysche ygrilled. Take {th}e yong blou fish, draw hym clene from the throte. Take garlic fyne, and whole mint foils, and mustard ground rough, and put thereto in the stomack. Wrap, and cooke on the gridiron till it be enow. Serve." Take young bluefish (also snapper works), gutted and cleaned, and place minced garlic, mint, and rough ground mustard in the belly. Wrap in oiled tin foil, and cook on the barbeque grill, about 7 minutes on a side. Serve hot. I know they grilled things, but I don't think they wrapped them in tin foil... (:-) So I didn't know how to say it properly. Tibor From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 12:43:47 -0400 Subject: Re: Re- SC - Meat for a week Mark Harris wrote: > Cariadoc explained: > A fowl is taken, roasted, jointed and thrown in a jar into which are put > coriander, pepper, cumin and cinnamon. Verjus is added, and mint, tarragon > and fresh thyme are cut over it, and good oil is poured over it. Fresh > spices are minced onto it, and it is decorated with chopped cucumber. > > >>>>> > Could someone please post a redaction of this for me? I'm afraid I'm not > quite up to redacting my own yet. This sounds similar to preserving soft > cheese in oil that we discussed a while back. I'm not sure how much of > each of these spices to use. How would you serve this? Take the pieces > out of the oil and warm them up? Rinse them off like salt fish? (I assume > not, but...) This sounds a lot like the Spanish fish dish escabeche, which is apparently derived from Arabic sources. Small "pan-dressed" (deheaded, gutted, and scaled) fish or fish steaks are seasoned liberally with salt, fried in oil and removed from the pan. Then onions (and sometimes sweet or hot peppers in some recipes) are very briefly sauteed in the same pan with peppercorns, bay leaves, and other appropriate pickling spices. This vegetable mixture is alternately layered in a stone crock with the fish, and the oily pan is deglazed with a generous amount of vinegar (ideally about half as much vinegar as oil, but 1:1 is okay, so long as the total liquid is enough to cover the fish), and the liquid is brought to a boil and poured over the fish. The crock is then covered. This will keep for a few days at room temperature and for at least a week or two in the refrigerator, perhaps more depending on your tolerance for bacteria, which was probably generally somewhat higher in period. I know I have seen recipes for this in late- or just-post-period European sources (c. 1600 C.E.). Interesting to note how fine restaurants where I live have begun making this dish with chicken (usually breastmeat medallions) as a wonderful modern innovation on an ancient classic ; ). Adamantius From: "Nick Sasso (fra niccolo)" <grizly at mindspring.com> Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 15:12:41 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - Definition > For those of us who are .... vocabularily challenged<g>, what is > "liquamen"? > > =Caitlin "liquamen": another name for garum. A fermented fish sauce used in ancient Rome. Made by layering in a well sealed barrel, fatty fish such as mackerel or sardine, strong herbs, and about 1 1/2" of salt. Layer this until the barrel is filled and seal. Leave in the sun for about seven days. After this fermentation, stir daily for 2-3 weeks until it has turned to liquid. You'll find a detailed description of various methods and varieties on pages 27-29 in _A Taste of Ancient Rome_ by Giacosa. I have used oriental fish sauce, but it lacks the punch described of the original. Maybe adding the strong herbs to steep for a while in the fish sauce would help. Ant other suggestions would be appreciated as this is a common Roman condiment in cooking. Giacosa also offers two suggested preparations for garum on p. 29 for those who wish to avoid the seven day fermentation :o) - -- In Humble Service to God and Crown; fra nicol difrancesco (mka nick sasso) Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 20:57:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Uduido at aol.com Subject: SC - Beer Batter <<Do you have a recipe for this beer batter ...<snip>>...? BEER BATTER (Not Medieval) 1 egg, beaten 3/4 cp beer 1 tsp melted fat 1cp siftef flour 1/2 tsp salt 3/8 tsp cubeb berries, ground 1/4 tsp galingal, ground Combine egg, beer and fat. Add flour and salt; beat until smooth. Let stand 30 minutes. TO USE: Heat deep hot fat to 375 degrees F. Dip fish fillet in bater. Drop carefully into hot fat. Fry 'til costing is light , crisp and golden brown. Drain on unglazed paper. Copyright 1997, L. J. Spencer. <<Is there any evidence of beer being used in the batter of any medieval dishes? I know this is a British traditional food, but I don't know if it is medieval.>> I do not have any documentation that this is "period". But all of the ingredients are period. :-) It is a way I am able to serve fish and get it eaten in what you could term a "medievalish" manner. :-) However, if anyone knows for sure or has a period recipe that might be interpreted in this way, please do share. <<If you are actually mixing your batter using beer, do you prefer a lighter or a darker beer or does it matter? >> I always use regular light colored beer for this batter. To my taste darker beers and/or ales tend to leave a somewhat more pronounced flavor that overpowers the delicate flavor of the fish. Lord Ras Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 21:40:57 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Beer Batter Uduido at aol.com wrote: > BEER BATTER > (Not Medieval) <snip> Actually, with saffron instead of the galingale and the grains of paradise, this would probably qualify as a proper medieval pancake or fritter batter. Whether or not the idea of dipping fish into it is medieval, is a different matter ; ) Adamantius Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:32:47 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: SC - My redaction..... Boiled Perch "Perche boiled. Take a preche, and drawe him in (th)e throte, and make to him sauce of water and salt; And whan hit bigynneth to boile, skeme hit and caste (th)e perche there-in, and seth him; and take hum uppe, and pul him, and serve him forth colde, and cast uppon him foiles of parcelly. and (th) sau[c]e is venegre or vergous." 1 whole perch boiling salted water flat parsley cider vinegar Start a pot of salted water boiling. Gut, scale and rinse the perch, removing the guts and head. Use those to make a fish stock out of the boiling water. Remove the head and entrails, and boil the fish for five minutes, or until done. Remove and pat dry, bone and skin the fish, removing the tail as well. Take the resulting filets, chill in the refrigerator. Just before serving, sprinkle with chopped parsley leaves and a few drops of vinegar. Serve cold. Tibor Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 10:54:06 -0600 From: "Stephanie Rudin"<rudin at okway.okstate.edu> Subject: Re[2]: SC - My redaction..... Just a note from someone who poaches fish quite often. Boil is probably not the best term to use. You want to poach fish at a nice simmer, not a roiling boil, especially a smaller fish. Mercedes Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 19:02:18 +0000 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - extraneous misc. And it came to pass on 4 Sep 97, that Marisa Herzog wrote: >I wish I could find where I had seen bitter orange listed as > a probable verjuice source In various recipes in the _Libro de Guisado_ (Catalan/Spanish, 16th century), orange juice is listed as an alternative to verjuice or vinegar, and is used as the primary sauce ingredient in many of the fish dishes. Presumably this would be from sour/bitter oranges; I believe that the sweet varieties are modern. Barbara Santich, in _The Original Mediterranean Cuisine_, says, "The standard accompaniments to fried fish were lemon juice (or the tart orange juice of the time) or green sauce." She comments elsewhere in the book that vinegar and verjuice were interchangeable in many recipes, and that lemon juice or the juice of bitter oranges were other substitutes. > -brid Brighid ni Chiarain of Tethba Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 01:42:16 -0400 From: marilyn traber <margali at 99main.com> Subject: Re: SC - back on topic (was re: below the salt) kat wrote: > Can anyone suggest one or two above-the-salt-type recipes for the > final remove of a feast I am trying to put together in March? Cod a la bretonne-made with whole cods instead of the fillets-better presentation take leeks, celery and carrots in fine julienne, saute til almost done in butter in parchement[or multiple layers commercial aluminum foil if doing on covered grill outdoors] place 1/3 of the veggies. place fish next stuffed with 1/3 of the veggies, add fresh thyme leaves, fresh parsley leaves and fresh basil leaves, salt and white pepper to taste, wrap in gauze to keep it from falling apart when you remove it from the foil then top with the rest of the veggies, dot with butter, sprinkle with white wine and arrange slices of lemon. seal in well. place on very large cooking sheet and bake at 425*f 10 minutes per inch of thickness or place on the grill and cover with a large piece of metal to hold the heat in for about the same. take out, place the veggies on the platter, then carefully put the fish on top, add assorted small garnishes around and serve. If you want a really neat form of period presentation, take regular pastry and make a fish shaped dome lid and blind bake, glazing with saffron and eggyolk wash to make it golden. Place over the fish and veggies and carry in with pomp and ceremoney. margali Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:28:18 EST From: melc2newton at juno.com (Michael P Newton) Subject: SC - a question on a redaction Relooking thro' my cookbooks, I found _Early American Cooking: Recipes from America's Historic Sites. In which I found the following recipe: To Seeth a Cod or Bass First take a Cod and boile it in water and salt, then take of the broth and put in a little pot, then put thereto as much Wine as there is broth, with Rosemark, Parselie, Time and margerum bounde together, and put them in the pot, put thereto a good manic of sliced Onyons, small raisons, whole maces, a dish of butter and a little suger, so that it be not too sharp not too sweet, and let all these seth together: if the wine be not sharpe enough then put thereto a little Vineger, and so serve it upon soppes with broth. >From _The Second Part of the Good Huswifes Iewell, T. Dawson, 1597 Ok, so I'm cutting it close on the date, and it's from an American Recipes cookbook, but since it has originals recipes, I'd thought I'd practice. By the by, has anyone heard of/seen/ has _The Second Part of the Good Huswifes_? What I'm reading from this recipe is that: after cooking your cod/bass in some water, enough to cover it, you take the fish out and set it aside. To the water, you add an equal amount of wine (white, perhaps?) and simmer the liquids with a tied bundle of a rosemary sprig, a sprig of parsley, some thyme and margerum. to the simmering liquid you add one sliced onion (how much is a manic of onion anyways?)say a 1/2 C of raisins, a couple of blades of mace, a 1/2 C of butter (a dish normally equals 1 stick around our house) and a Tbsp. of sugar. Simmer the sauce together until the flavors meld together, taste, if it's too sweet, add a teaspoon or two of cider vinegar. Lay the Cod/Bass on bread slices and pour the sauce over both. I haven't tried my redaction yet,(still looking for that sale on fish, sigh) but I'd thought I'd go ahead and ask all of your opinions of it. Lady Beatrix Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 19:14:22 EDT From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: SC - Will's- more recipes Here are the few recipes my co-feastocrat at Will's Revenge, His Lordship Thorstein, was willing to share. :-) Sorry for the lack of documentation but this isn't my work. Enjoy. They are wonderful. :-) Parma fish pie sufficient pastry for a large, 10 in deep-dish double crust pie 2 lb. cooked fish 1 cup raisins 8 prunes 6 figs 10 dates 1/2 cup pinenuts 1 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons fine oil 2 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram 2 teaspoons fresh sage 2 tablespoons fresh grated ginger 1/2 teaspoon cloves 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon grains of paradise pinch saffron 1 cup white sugar 1 cup almond milk 3 tablespoons rice flour Flake fish and set aside Wash fruit. Cut into small pieces Combine all fruit and pinenuts in bowl and add white wine, set aside In pot over low heat, combine oil and herbs. Add fruit and wine mixture Combine spices and sugar. Stir into fruit mixture. Continue heating until sugar is dissolved. Reserve some almond milk for brushing on crust Add almond milk to rice flour and stir until smooth; add to fruit mixture Fold in 1/2 of fish. Pour into crust. Layer remaining fish on top. Cover with top pastry. Brush with almond milk. Bake at 425 for 10 min. reduce to 375 for another 20-30 minutes. Serve hot or cold. Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 15:23:00 -0500 From: allilyn at juno.com (LYN M PARKINSON) Subject: SC - Re: gooseberries + jelly >>Gooseberries. Find me a period recipe (primary source only please) that uses them.<< <snip of info on gooseberry sauces> As an antecedent to the mackeral/gooseberry combo, some fish sauces are definately tart: they contain sorrell, lemon and other piquant tastes, so your combo in in line with prevailing tastes, just not currently documentable. Fruit jellies are so popular with meats in Europe, that tart jellies may sometimes have taken the place of tart sauces. Whoa!!! Hold!!! Just found something else in LaVarenne! 62. Fresh mackerells rosted. Rost them with fennell, after they are rosted, open them, and take off the bone; then make a good sauce with butter, parsley, and gooseberries, all well seasoned; stove a very little your mackerells with your sauce, then serve. Have just glanced at a number of her fish sauces; none seem to have cream or milk added, yet. Is 'short broth' a reduced cooking liquid, do you think? Allison Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:01:14 EDT From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Shrove Tuesday/Mardi Gras/Carnival and Ducal University allilyn at juno.com writes: << Actually, how widespread was the use of whaling products? >> According to the documentary it was quite widespread. Incomparable to the Victorian whaling industry, by all means, but not an insignificant part of a fishing town's annual "fish" harvest. << Is this something our noble houses would have had available to order?>> I don't see why they wouldn't be able to aquire it. If they did, it was probably fed to the servants. It is my understanding that whale "bacon" was almost exclusively comsumed by the poor in urban areas. Unfortunately, I am only beggining to look into this subject and currently have litle actual ionformation at hand. << ....<snip>......Perhaps something like the whale oil would have been mainly available to seaside towns, and businesses such as sardines in oil, etc, for export inland as finished products. >> As you can see the possibilities are endless, I was hoping someone on the list may have delved into this area and share the information with us. :-) Ras (spelled A'aql) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:42:32 -0400 From: "Gedney, Jeff" <gedje01 at mail.cai.com> Subject: RE: SC - Shrove Tuesday/Mardi Gras/Carnival and Ducal University I understand that the Whale was considered "the King's Meat", and all whales that were taken or beached in England were to be reported to and taken possession of by the Crown. The King's men would then distribute whatever they did not take to the town. This was in effect from before 1200, AFAIK. Whale Oil and (especially) Spermaceti were the only really useful lubricants for a lot of Late period machinery and clockworks. vegetable oils and most rendered fats break down too quickly under high load. Whale oils were an important item of commerce, Traded widely, and a single beached Whale could provide as much as 40 or more barrels of the stuff. Ambergris used in perfumery before 1500, and worth a fortune. Whale meat ( though, I am assured, probably not Kosher ) would have been rich and high caloric in protein and fat. As I understand it, it was delicious. Porpoise meat, would have been easier to obtain, and netted or speared, as one would any large fish, such as sturgeon, and was apparently common enough to have recipes in the corpus throughout period. Porpoise was a favored meat of the Tudors, IIRC. Brandu Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 11:13:33 -0800 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Shrove Tuesday/Mardi Gras/Carnival and Ducal University Allison asks: >Actually, how widespread was the use of whaling products? Is this >something our noble houses would have had available to order? How about >households like the Menagier's, or country estates like Lady Fettiplace's >place? Perhaps something like the whale oil would have been mainly >available to seaside towns, and businesses such as sardines in oil, etc, >for export inland as finished products. Menagier writes: "GRASPOIS. This is salted whale, and should be sliced raw and cooked in water like bacon; and serve with peas", and he has a pea recipe which uses bacon for meat days and this salted whale on fish days. The editor of the French text of Menagier has in a footnote to this: "A lawsuit which lasted several years in the Paris parliament and which had to do with the seven stalls owned by the king in the Paris markets, of which stalls five were for salt fish and two for "craspois", tells us that the "craspois" was only found in Paris in Lent: it was "Lenten bacon", the fish for the poor; during Lent four thousand people lived on "craspois", dried fish and herring." Elizabeth/Betty Cook Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 07:15:48 EDT From: Balano1 at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - A Taste For Whale If you can't find a supply of whale meat to sample, the following may give one an approximation of its taste ;-) In perusing a dusty old book store, I found: An Illustrated History of French Cuisine - From Charlemagne to Charles de Gaulle by Christian Guy, Translation by Elisabeth Abbot, 1962 Contained therein is a chapter titled: The Apotheosis of Whale Meat It begins with a discussion of the re-awakening of French cuisine at the end of the thirteenth century. As famine abated, the French began to give more thought to improving their menus. The markets were filled with all manner of previously unavailable foodstuffs and those which were difficult to come by. "In Paris, which was a tedious journey from the coasts in those days, the fishmarkets were filled with salmon, trubot, brill, mullet, sole, dab, plaice, mackerel, whiting, haddock, sturgeon, weever, conger-eel, sardines, lobster, shrimps, mussels, codfish, red mullet... This era was also the apotheosis of whale meat. In those days the great mammals wandered close to the shores of France and throughout the Middle Ages vast quantities of them were eaten. Whale meat was the crajois or Lenten fare, one of the principal sources of for for the poor who were not discouraged at having to cook that tough meat at least twenty-four hours before it was edible. Nowadays, there is no more whale meat, at least in the French Markets. The last time it was served was in 1892 in a Paris restaurant near the Halles Centrales. One of the guests, Dr. Felix Bremont, tells us: "I can't say anything bad about that whale meat, but neither do I feel I can say much that was good. Take a piece of lean beef and boil it in water in which a stale mackerel has been washed, mix this broth with some sort of piquant sauce and you'll have a dish similar to the one served to me under the name of Escalope de baliene a la Valois (Escalope of whale a la Valois)." Enjoy! - Sister Mary Endoline Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 11:22:49 -0400 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: SC - Re: Baconn'd Herring Breakfasts Back in February we were discussing 'Baconn'd Herring' without resolution as to what it meant. I just ran across this in Le Menagier (The notes are M. Pichon's): "SAUMON frais soit baconn,(1) et gardez l'eschine pour rostir; puis despeciez par dales cuites en eaue, et du vin et du sel au cuire; mengi au poivre jaunet ou la cameline et en past, qui veult, pouldr (2) d'espices; et se le saumon est sal, soit mengi au vin et la ciboule par rouelles.(3) (1)Fum. Voy. Du Cange au mot Baco. (2)Peut-tre faut-il lire pouldre en sous-entendant avec. (3)G. C. , 69." Translation please? Cindy/Sincgiefu Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 12:56:52 -0400 From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Fish at Feasts Some fish dishes that I've served with success: hot-smoked whiting (which is ridiculously cheap where I live) and pickled shrimp, both of which are good sitting atop a sallet, egerdouce, fried fillets in a sweet-and-sour sauce with dried fruit (children seem very fond of this one), saumon gentil, poached chunks of extruded minced salmon (basically meatballs), sprinkled with cumin and sitting atop a green sauce (this last prompting a diner to successfully silence an entire feasthall while he told the tale of Fionn Mac Cumhal and the Salmon of Wisdom -- _I_ thought that was pretty cool), steamed mussels in white-wine-vinegar-butter sauce (very similar to your basic French moules mariniere), Apician shrimp isicia, and my all-time favorite, the cuminade de poissons from Le Menagier de Paris. Adamantius Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:58:47 -0400 From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Fish at Feasts > Sigh! I would love to serve and eat more fish at feasts, but here in the > southern part of the midwest, it would probably break most feast budgets > to have more than one entree be fish or shellfish related. (unless you > made it out of catfish : ) IS there any period recipes using catfish? ) > Beatrix I'm not aware of any under that name, but there are period recipes that simply specify "fish", and there are even those that specify various firm white freshwater fish, some of which are similar in flavor and texture to catfish. In addition, the admittedly post-period "Compleat Angler" by Izaak Walton (a contemporary of Kenelm Digby's) gives instructions for catching, identifying, and, if I remember correctly, dressing and cooking bullheads, which are a variety of catfish found in, unless I've been misinformed, the Southern Midwest of the U.S. The illustration of the bullhead in the book certainly suggests a catfish-y fish of some kind. Adamantius Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:43:58 -0400 From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Fish at Feasts Craig Jones. wrote: > >Beatrix asks: > > IS there any period recipes using catfish? ) > > > >Actually, I think catfish is New World, but it sure is good. Wondering if > >any of the old world fishes might be similar enough in flavor and texture > >to substitute? Anybody have a clue? > > > >Phlip > > Maybe another bottom dwelling mud sucker, perhaps loach which I've > seen in a few period sources here and there. Bottom-dwelling, maybe, but mud-sucker generally applies more to carp-type fish, which catfish are not. Loaches, now, are pretty similar to catfish: scaleless, with large heads and mouths, and whiskers or barbels. The fish that Walton refers to as a bullhead looks somewhat like an American bullhead catfish (several species of the genus Ictalurus), but apparently is not, unless it is now extinct in Europe. A.J. McClane's "Complete Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery" says that there is only one actual European catfish, Siluris glanis, commonly known as a wels. What language this is supposed to be in is not clear, but McClane clearly states that while there is a fish known as a katfische in German, it is a marine wolffish related to wrasses. I suspect American bullheads were called bullheads by European settlers in the New World who thought they had some resemblance, in one way or another, to the European fish. This isn't unprecedented: in Pennsylvania walleyes used to be called salmon because they were cheap, plentiful, and occupied the same socio-economic niche (i.e. primarily a food for servants and lower middle classes) as the salmon did in Europe at the time many European settlers arrived in PA. This same fish is called a walleyed pike (it isn't even remotely like a pike, except it swims and has scales) in the Northern MidWest of the U.S., and, I think, is commonly known as a yellow pike in Canada. It is, in fact, a type of perch. Loach recipes might do very well using catfish, as a matter of fact, but I don't think there are too many fish recipes that were considered to be immutably for a specific species of fish. Many specify several types of fish, maybe on the assumption you will have access to one or another of them. Adamantius Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 21:50:36 EDT From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Catching & Cooking carp upsxdls at okway.okstate.edu writes: << IIRC, it takes 90 minutes at 15 lbs pressure. >> The correct pressure would be 10 lb. but the timing is correct. Also remove the dark portions of the meat as these tend to impart a muddy taste to the meat. Carp taken in cold waters or cold seasons such as fall and winter tend to have a firmer flesh and a finer flavor. When taken in warm weather such as summer, they tend to have a muddy, unpleasant fishy flavor and there flesh is soft and insipid. Carp were the most commonly used fish in the monastery fish ponds of the MA. As such they would have been used for everyday types of meals and seldom used, if at all, at major feasts. Ras Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1998 15:46:39 -0500 From: allilyn at juno.com (LYN M PARKINSON) Subject: Re: SC - carp and lebkuchen I was looking up some info on the lebkuchen in some of my German referances, and noticed the statement that carp is traditionally cooked in Germany on Christmas Eve, as it goes back to the monks' ponds. Evidently, they kept carp as a staple. The fattening of the Christmas carp might begin as early as August. So, as soon as we're home from Pennsic, we rush out and feed the fish!!! They didn't say what was used to fatten the carp, or what monks used in place of cardboard boxes of fish flakes. My German family has a herring salad, with beets, for Christmas eve and other special family events, but I think that comes from the great-grandfather who was a trader based in Riga, Russia. Allison Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 23:19:32 EDT From: Mordonna22 at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Fish and Vinegar melc2newton at juno.com writes: > What the heck type of fish is a soal? Sole, a flat fish, a flounder Mordonna DuBois Haven of Warriors Atenveldt Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 22:18:20 -0400 From: Phil & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - meat days and fast days - MIXED? Mary Morman wrote: > On Fri, 9 Oct 1998, Phil & Susan Troy wrote: > > Chiquart speaks of the need to be accomodating to the > > guest cooks brought in by His Grace's guests who are on special diets of all > > sorts; I believe he mentions abstaining from meat on meat days, for whatever > > reason, as one such aberrant diet to be accomodated. > > > > Adamantius > > wonderful reference, adam ant! can you get me the quote? From Chiquart's "Du Fait de Cuisine", transl. Terence Scully, Peter Lang Publishing, Inc., New York 1986, ISBN 0-8204-0352-0, pp. 14-15: "Since at such a feast there may be very high, mighty, noble, venerable and honorable lords and ladies who will not eat meat, it is necessary to have similar amounts of sea-fish and fresh-water fish, both fresh and salted, and these in as varied preparations as can be. "And because the dolphin is king of all the other sea-fish, it will be put first, then congers, grey mullet, hake, sole, red mullet, John Dory, plaice, turbot, lobsters, tuna, sturgeon, salmon, sprats, sardines, sea-urchins, mussels, eels, bogues, ray, calamary, weever and anchovies; the eels, both fresh and salted. "Of freshwater fish: large trout, large eels, lampreys, filets of char, great pike filets, great carp filets, great perch, dace, pollacks, greylings, burbots, crayfish, and all other fish. "Because there are at this feast a few great lords or ladies, as was mentioned before, who will have with them their Chief Cook whom they will order to arrange and cook particular things for them, that Chief Cook should have supplied and dispensed to him, quickly, fully, generously, and cheerfully, anything he may ask for or that may be necessary for his lord or lady, or for the both of them, so that he may serve them as he should." > i'll put it with my reference from the abbot at bury st. edmonds about > instructing the cook to cook and serve a regular meal with meat dishes and > sweets even though the abbot himself only ate fast day foods - this was an > act of charity so that the leftovers could go to the infirmary or to > others at the table, or to the beggars at the gate. Cool! Hope this helps! Adamantius stgardr, East Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:48:45 -0800 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: RE: SC - meat days and fast days - MIXED? At 12:41 PM -0700 10/29/98, Stapleton, Jeanne wrote: > Cool! does he specify some dishes? To put it mildly, yes. The book is webbed at: http://www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/du_fait_de_c_con tents.html "And as at such a feast there could be some very high, puissant, noble, venerable and honorable lords and ladies who do not eat meat, for these there must be fish, marine and fresh-water, fresh and salt, in such manner as one can get them. And as the sea-bream is king of the other sea fish, listed first is the sea-bream, conger-eel, grey mullet, hake, sole, red mullet, dorade, plaice, turbot, sea-crayfish, tuna, sturgeon, salmon, herrings, sardines, sea-urchin, mussels, eels, boops, ray, cuttle-fish, arany marine, anchovies, eels, both fresh and salted. Concerning fresh-water fish: big trout, big eels, lampreys, filleted char, fillets of big pike, fillets of big carp, big perch, ferrs, palls, graylings, burbot, crayfish, and all other fish." And lots of recipes. David/Cariadoc http://www.best.com/~ddfr/ Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:28:04 -0600 From: mfgunter at fnc.fujitsu.com (Michael F. Gunter) Subject: Re: SC - Viking Sweets, my creative adventure > The prunes sound good, Tyrca, but what I am REALLY waiting for is the > Ansteorran Royal redaction of buttery cheese sauce on sushi! > > Allison Easy. From "Master Arglebargle's Booke of Dysshes for the Strange and Pyckee" Dated 1512, Published by Blackfinger Press, London,Wales Tyk goode butter and sethe hyt well, add fat cheese and softe cheese. Season hyt with pepyr and goode spyce. Serue toppd on sippets. Then tyk freshe fysshe and clene hym and cutte hym into leches. Boyle rys til hit bursteth then tyk the rys into thine hand and presse him into balls. Lay the balls on the cheese and topp with the fysshe. Gunthar Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 10:33:47 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - once again bread & FISH Stacie wrote: > Does anyone have a tasty recipe for Lake Erie Walleye.....I have some that > is begging to be taken out of the freezer......I usually just bake it in the > oven with a little lemon and butter (sprinkled lightly with salt and pepper) > but i would like to try something new.... A walleye being basically a perch on steroids, there are some period recipes for perch that should do really well. One that comes to mind is egredouce (fried fish in sweet-and-sour sauce) which is ideally suited since walleye, as I recall, needs to be skinned before eating, so skinless, boneless fillet chunks are a perfect presentation for both the fish and the dish. (Yeah, the recipe doesn't specify the fish is boned, but it does make it easier to deal with the sauce, etc.) From the "Forme of Cury" (which specifies rabbit or kid as the meat, but fish was commonly eaten in this sauce: Egurdouce Take conynges or kydde and smyte hem on pecys rawe, and fry hem in white grece. Take raysons of Corance and fry hem; take oynons, parboile hem and hew hem small and fry hem. Take rede wine, sugar, with powdor of peper, of gynger, of canel; salt; and cast therto; and lat it seeth with a gode quantite of white grece; ans serue it forth. Quantities _loosely_ adapted from Hieatt & Butler's "Pleyn Delit": 2 lbs Lake Erie Walleye ; ) Flour for coating fish lard for frying plus 1 - 2 Tbs for the sauce, or use vegetable shortening 1/2 cup currants 3 onions, parboiled (optional) and minced 1 1/2 cups red wine 1/2 cup vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon each ginger and cinnamon 1/4 tsp pepper (I like more) 1 tsp salt or to taste H&B call for a thickener of bread crumbs, but I feel it's gratuitous. The white grease added at the end of the cooking process provides some slight thickening power; you have to have the sauce at a hard boil when you add the lard in tiny bits for it to work. It becomes temporarily emulsified into the rest of the syrupy sauce, cutting some of its sharpness and making it just slightly thicker, but lighter in texture. Another possibility, and far more faithful than breadcrumbs, would be to take perhaps half the solids from the sauce, run them through a food mill, and return them to the sauce. The flour for frying really isn't much of a departure: Taillevent speaks of frying fish _without_ flour, suggesting it was done at least sometimes in 14th century France. The recipe speaks of parboiling the onions before mincing and frying them; it seems to make little or no difference in the finished product, and if you don't buy the medical theory that probably motivates the instruction, you might well omit the extra step. Anyway, I suggest coating the fish with seasoned flour (use a plastic bag), frying it in lard or shortening, removing the fish to keep warm for a few, and make the sauce by removing most of the fat from the pan, sauteeing the onions and the currants, adding the remaining sauce ingredients except for the lard, bringing it to a boil, adding the lard if you want to use it for thickening, otherwise mill, sieve, or puree part of the currants and onions strained from the sauce, adding them back, and pouring the sauce over the fish. The original recipe says you should fry the currants first, then the onions. This suggests to me the onions should not become browned in the frying, and may also be part of why the onions are parboiled first, to be sure they're soft enough. Adamantius stgardr, East Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:42:26 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - New pet peeve melc2newton at juno.com wrote: > and was told that they were their own, but that they had used all period > ingredients.( Although Clam Chowder is my favorite, the cream based type, > especially from scratch, I have difficultly believing it's Norman French, > even Generic Norman French... but I degress... ) Your difficulty is understandable. Chowder, especially in the form you refer to, is an at-least-second-generation American interpretation of Breton dishes now known as bourride and matelote, made from herring or other rather small fish, and eels, respectively. The earliest American chowders appear to have been layered, baked constructs like a lasagna, or a fish-based Irish stew, made from salt pork, ship's biscuit, potatoes, onions, fish and fish stock, with butter added as a garnish at the table. Even these are only loosely related to European originals, bearing about as much relation to French soups as if a French immigrant to the New World had said, "Okay, what have we got around here to make a hotpot out of?" Clams don't seem to be as widely eaten in Western Europe as they are in the USA, and if the recipes are anything to judge from, the same seems to have been true in period. Clams were added later, probably in the early 19th century, and "New England Clam Chowder" as we know it today, with milk and cream, potatoes only (and sometimes roux) without ship's biscuit or cracker crumbs, _and_ sans tomato product, seems to appear for the first time in Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking School Cook Book in, what, 1896? I'm extremely fond of pointing out to sanctimonious fans of "traditional" NE chowder that tomato was widely used in NE chowders till around 100 years ago, and probably still would be if they could grow good tomatoes in New England and preserve them properly in a ketchup that tasted good. (Real tomato ketchup, a thin but highly flavored, sweet, tangy, and _spicy_ condiment, has gone the way of all flesh, but it was often included in fish and clam chowders until the late 19th century, as an alternative to fresh or canned tomatoes.) Speaking of pet peeves and all...I guess you can tell this is something of a push-button for me. Adamantius stgardr, East Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:36:13 -0000 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Nanna_R=F6gnvaldard=F3ttir?=" <nannar at isholf.is> Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food From: Margo Hablutzel <margolh at nortelnetworks.com> >I am not sure that tuna was eaten in >period, it doesn't seem to be from the right places (could be wrong). The small white tuna (albacore) and the larger bluefin tuna were very common from ancient times in the Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean. They were appreciated by the Phoenicians, the Romans and also in the Middle Ages, not least pickled in brine. I think most old recipes that call for tunny fish (the version used until the 19th century) actually refer to albacore. Very popular on fast days! Nanna Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:20:03 EST From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food margolh at nortelnetworks.com writes: << I am not sure that tuna was eaten in period, it doesn't seem to be from the right places (could be wrong).>> Tuna was a fish used by the Romans. IIRC, there are a few recipes in Apicius that use tuna. It was in fact a Mediterranean fish until the oil tankers all but killed that sea in this century. :-( Ras Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:14:10 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food Margo Hablutzel wrote: >I am not sure that tuna was eaten in > period, it doesn't seem to be from the right places (could be wrong). No, I'm pretty sure tuna is mentioned as a food in Taillevent's "Viandier". Certainly it was caught and eaten by much of the coastal Roman World. It also figures rather heavily in Chiquart's "Du Fait de Cuisine", as the main fish ingredient in the fish-day version of his Parmesan Pies, among other uses. I believe the feast Chiquart is writing about, several years after the fact, took place in 1405 or so. Technically not the 14th century, but sooo close. Adamantius Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 08:16:05 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food And it came to pass on 20 Jan 99,, that LrdRas at aol.com wrote: > Tuna was a fish used by the Romans. IIRC, there are a few recipes in > Apicius that use tuna. It was in fact a Mediterranean fish until the oil > tankers all but killed that sea in this century. :-( > > Ras Tuna appears in 15th century Spanish recipes. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 07:17:43 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - 14th Century Food Shari Burnham wrote: > I don't have a copy of that, could you please provide a recipe for the > Parmesan pies? (the fish-day version?) That sounds like a nummy dish to try > with tuna. Yes, it does. I have a photocopy of the Scully translation, and reproducing it here would involve squinting at small print in not-very-bright light, early in the morning... . So, instead, I'll quote from Elizabeth Cook's translation of "Du Fait de Cuisine", courtesy of HG Cariadoc's web pages: ---------- 40. Now I, Chiquart, would like to give to understand to him who will be ordered to make parma tarts of fish, let him take slices of tuna if he is in a place where he can get marine fish, and if not let him take as much of those of fresh water, that is large filleted carp, large eels and large filleted pike, and of this take such a great quantity as he is told to make the said tarts; and take candied raisins, prunes, figs, dates, pinenuts, and of each of these take what seems to him right to take according to the quantity ofthe said tarts; then, for the said tarts, let them be cut into pieces, cleaned and washed andput to cook well and cleanly; and, being well cooked, draw it out onto fair and clean tables or boards and let the bones be removed and take them out very well and properly so that no little bones remain, and chop them well and finely; and let the aforesaid raisins have the stems very well removed, let the pine nuts be cleaned very well, let the figs, prunes, and dates be cut into little dice; and, all these things thus dealt with, except for the meat, should be very well washed in white wine and drained, and then mix them with the aforesaid meat of the fish. And it is also necessary, according to the quantity of the said tarts which you have to make, that you have parsley, marjoram, and sage, and of each herb the quantity according to the strength of each, that is of parsley more and of the others less; and let them be well cleaned, washed, and very well chopped and then mix them with the aforesaid meat. And, this being done, have fair, clear, clean, and well refined oil and then have a fair, large and clean frying pan and let it be set over a fair clear fire and put all this into it, and have a good assistant with a fair, large and clean spoon who stirs very well and strongly in the said frying pan; and arrange that you have your almond milk well thickened and strained through a strainer, and a great deal of amydon according to the quantity of tarts which you have and put all in to thicken it; and then put your spices in with your meat while stirring the contents of the pan continually, that is white ginger, grains of paradise and a little pepper, and saffron which gives it color, and whole cloves and a great deal of sugar pounded into powder, and salt in reason. And arrange that your pastry-cooks have made well and properly the crusts of the said tarts, and, being made, take the aforesaid filling and put in each what should be put. And then arrange that you have a very great quantity of good and fair slices of good and fair eels which should be well and properly cooked in water and, being cooked, put them to fry in fair and clean oil; and, being fried, take them out; and then on each tart put three or four pieces, one here and another there, so that they are not together; and then cover the tarts and put in the oven and, being cooked, put them on your dishes and serve them. ---------- Adamantius stgardr, East Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 14:33:02 -0500 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: Re: SC - Waffres ala Master Huen >Mordonna22 at aol.com wrote: >> Master Huen, in your redaction of the Waffres recipe from Thomas >>Austin's Two <snip> I suppose this is >> an acceptable substitution, if you assume the original meant the roe of a >> luce. <snip> Hello! I'm fairly certain the original is calling for the stomach, and not the roe. The original says 'wombe', which is usually translated as stomach, although Pegge translates it as 'belly' in Forme of Cury. There are many entrail recipes in Austin's collection that call for 'wombes', 'paunches', etc. There are 2 recipes (off the top of my head) in Austin's collection, Iuschelle of Fysshe, and Mortrowes of fissh, which call for fish roe. In those instances the word is spelled 'frye', 'ffry', and 'rowys'. In Forme of Cury the word is spelled 'rawnes' (Mortrews of fish, p. 60) Cindy Renfrow renfrow at skylands.net Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 17:29:23 -0500 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: Re: SC - Waffres ala Master Huen <snip> >I bow to your expertise, M'Lady. >However, putting the stomach of a luce, or of a pike into such a delicate >recipe makes no sense. It would add a strong fishy taste, and very little >else. >Would it be entirely off base to think that perhaps, since this is a fish day >recipe, in an effort to add the character of fowl eggs, which were forbidden, >the cook chose to use fish eggs? > >Mordonna Um, the recipe *does* call for hen's eggs, unless luce eggs are big enough to crack & separate?: Harleian MS. 279 - Leche Vyaundez xxiiij. Waffres. Take [th]e Wombe of A luce, & se[th]e here wyl, & do it on a morter, & tender chese [th]er-to, grynde hem y-fere; [th]an take flowre an whyte of Eyroun & bete to-gedere, [th]en take Sugre an pouder of Gyngere, & do al to-gederys, & loke [th]at [th]in Eyroun ben hote, & ley [th]er-on of [th]in paste, & [th]an make [th]in waffrys, & serue yn. 24. Wafers. Take the Stomach of A pike, & seethe her well, & put it in a mortar, & tender cheese thereto, grind them together; then take flour and white of Eggs & beat together, then take Sugar and powder of Ginger, & put all together, & look that thine Eggs are hot, & lay thereon of thine paste, & then make thine wafers, & serve in. I find the method somewhat confusing, unless we're being instructed to make 2 mixtures, i.e., a thick one with the fish & cheese, & another mixture with flour, eggwhite, sugar & ginger. Le Menagier (Goodman, p. 306) gives instructions for cheese wafers that don't leak, in which the paste is spread out, filled with strips of cheese, & then the ends of the paste are folded into the middle, & the whole thing transferred to the waffle iron & cooked. I think that's what is happening here. (<SHRIEK!> Pocket sandwiches are period! ;D <laughing>) Stirring up trouble, Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu renfrow at skylands.net Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 14:26:43 EST From: Mordonna22 at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - roe him at gte.net writes: > Please tell me how to fry roe. My family always threw it away. My dad > is a huge fisherman and it saddens me to think of all we missed not > knowing what to do with the roe. First, carefully remove the roe so that the membrane covering it is intact. Wash it in fresh water, then salt it and dip in a thin cornmeal or flour batter. Then deep fry in hot oil until golden. Simple and delicious. Mordonna Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 19:12:58 EST From: Mordonna22 at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Waffres ala Master Huen renfrow at skylands.net writes: > Um, the recipe *does* call for hen's eggs, unless luce eggs are big enough > to crack & separate?:, uhhh Not at all. Each little egg is about the size of a berry. There is a whole mass of them enclosed in a membrane called the roe. Mordonna Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 19:57:57 EST From: geneviamoas at juno.com Subject: Re: SC - roe On Sat, 06 Feb 1999 11:49:22 -0600 Helen <him at gte.net> writes: >Please tell me how to fry roe. My family always threw it away. My >dad is a huge >fisherman and it saddens me to think of all we missed not knowing what >to do with the roe. You scramble it with eggs, too. genevia Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 21:45:52 EST From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Waffres ala Master Huen jlmatterer at labyrinth.net writes: << I have no idea what would be an appropraite substitute for the womb of a luce. >> You might try substituting fish roe. This product is available in the south SFAIK and may be available in other areas. My mom used to bring back cans of this when she visited Virginia each summer. It is nothing like caviar. It is really good scrambled up in eggs which is how she used to fix it. This product I would suspect would be closer to 'womb of pike' than any caviar. It tastes very much like catfish roe. Ras Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 09:46:42 EST From: Kallyr at aol.com Subject: SC - Re: salmon recipe This is a salmon recipe I am currently considering using for my upcoming feast Salmon Roasted in Sauce Redaction by Minna Gantz (mka Sherry Levi) Ingredients: 12 lb. salmon steak(s), about 3/4- 1" thick for the sauce: 6 c. red wine 3 Tbsp. cinnamon 24-36 scallions, minced (depending on size) 1/3 c. red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. ginger, powdered Serves: 12 tables of 8 (in feast context) Preparation: 1) Roast salmon on a hot (slightly oiled or non-stick surface) skillet or griddle. 2) Simmer red wine in a saucepan whisking in cinnamon and stirring in scallions. 3) When ready to serve, turn off heat and add vinegar and ginger, whisk together. 4) Ladle sauce over the salmon & serve hot. Original text Book II, Harleian 4016. 152. Samon roste in Sauce. Take a Salmond, and cut hem rounde, chyne and all, and roste the peces on a gredire; And take wyne, and poudre of Canell, and draw it ?orgh a streynour; And take smale myced onions, and caste ?ere-to, and lete hem boyle; And ?en take vynegre, or vergeous, and pouder ginger, and cast there-to; And ?en ley the samon in a dissh, and cast ?e sirop ?eron al hote, & serue it forth. Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 13:03:03 -0800 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: salmon recipe At 9:46 AM -0500 2/28/99, Kallyr at aol.com wrote: >This is a salmon recipe I am currently considering using for my upcoming feast > >Salmon Roasted in Sauce >Redaction by Minna Gantz (mka Sherry Levi) > >Ingredients: >12 lb. salmon steak(s), about 3/4- 1" thick > >for the sauce: >6 c. red wine >3 Tbsp. cinnamon >24-36 scallions, minced (depending on size) >1/3 c. red wine vinegar >2 Tbsp. ginger, powdered > >Serves: 12 tables of 8 (in feast context) I've just posted my version of this recipe under the heading "Salmon (was: meat and seafood marinades)". My guess is that the "small minced onion" mentioned in the original recipe actually means "onions minced small", not scallions; there was at the time a word "chibolles" which actually meant green onions, scallions, and it isn't used here. We used rather less spice, proportionately, and a good deal more vinegar. Elizabeth/Betty Cook Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 12:49:48 -0800 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: SC - Salmon (was: meat and seafood marinades) At 5:58 PM -0600 2/27/99, Helen wrote: > I am fighting with my family over how best to cook the salmon and lamb >for my wedding feast. Here is a 15th-c. English salmon recipe, good and not too complicated: Salmon roste in Sauce Two Fifteenth Century p. 102 Take a Salmond, and cut him rounde, chyne and all, and rost the peces on a gredire; And take wyne, and pouder of Canell, and drawe it thorgh a streynour; And take smale myced oynons, and caste there-to, and lete hem boyle; And then take vynegre, or vergeous, and pouder ginger, and cast there-to; and then ley the samon in a dissh, and cast the sirip theron al hote, & serue it forth. [end of original; thorns replaced by th] 1 3/4 lb salmon 3/4 t cinnamon 1/4 c red wine vinegar 3/4 c white wine 1 medium onion, 6 oz 1/4 t ginger Chop onion; put onion, wine, and cinnamon in small pot, cook on medium about 20 minutes. Add ginger and vinegar. Simmer. Meanwhile, take salmon steaks, cut into serving sized pieces, place on ungreased baking pan or cookie sheet. Broil for 10 minutes until lightly browned. Turn salmon, making certain pieces are separated, cook another 4 minutes or until done. Serve immediately with sauce over it. Elizabeth/Betty Cook Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 13:17:21 -0800 (PST) From: Huette von <ahrenshav at yahoo.com> Subject: SC - Salmon recipe with beer Here is a recipe that I have used many times that covers two requests! >From Gervase Markham's The English Huswife: To seeth fresh Salmon. Take a little water, and as much Beere and Salt, and put thereto Parsley, Time, and Rosemarie, and let all thes boyle together; then put in your Salmon, and make your broth sharpe with some Vinigar. My redaction: 2 pounds salmon (either steaks or filets) 2 tbsp olive oil 1 can or 2 cups beer salt and pepper to taste 1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tbsp thyme 2 tbsp rosemary 1 tbsp vinegar Put olive oil in heavy skillet and add salmon (cover both sides of salmon with olive oil). Add beer, then sprinkle on seasonings. Simmer for 10-15 min. (depending on thickness of the salmon). Add vinegar and simmer for 1 min. longer. For a feast, you can eliminate the skillet and use instead jelly-roll baking sheets (i.e. cookie sheets with a one inch high side all around). Place in the oven for 10-15 min. and you will get just the same effect. Huette Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 16:17:05 -0600 (CST) From: "Michael F. Gunter" <michael.gunter at fnc.fujitsu.com>Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 21:53:22 EST From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: SC - A Recipe for Lent Here is a recipe for your Lenten pleasure. :-) Du Fait de Cuisine by Master Chiquart, Chef to the Duke of Savoy, 1420. Translated by Elizabeth Cook from a manuscript edited by Terence Scully, 'Vallesai' v. 40, pp. 121-231. 1985 (1420) as found in Cariadoc's'Collection of Medieval and Renaissance Cookbooks', v. II, p. F-15. Translation (copyright Elizabeth Cook): 35............ Again, marine or fresh water fish which are well and properly fried, and make a fair sauce piquant on top. 36. And to give understanding to him who will make the sauce piquant take onions and prepare them very well and cut them into fair slices and mince them very small; and then let him have his very well refined oil and then saute the onuions in it well and properly, and then drain off the oil, which should not remain at all. And then take a fair and clean pot and then take very good wine and put it in according to the quantity of fish which he is frying and then take his spices: ginger, grains of paradise, saffron, pepper -- and put in all these things in measure according to the quantity of fish which is to be eatenwith the said sauce piquant and let it taste of vinegar well and gently, and of salt also.................... Redaction: Marine Fish with Sauce Piquant (copyright L. J. Spencer, Jr. 1999) 5 T Extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. Fresh salt water fish fillets (e.g. Scrod) 1 medium onion, sliced and minced finely (about 3/8 cp) 1/2 cup White wine (e.g. Chateau de St. Ondes) 1/2 tsp Ginger, ground 1/2 tsp Grains of Paradise, freshly ground 4 threads of Saffron, crushed 1/2 tsp Black pepper, freshly ground Salt to taste 2 T White wine vinegar Heat 3 T olive oil in a frying pan. Fry fish until lightly browned. Turn. Continue frying until opaque and fish flakes easily. Carefully remove fish from pan and transfer to a warm platter. In another small frying pan, heat 2 T olive oil. Add onion. Saute onion until soft and transparent being careful not to burn. Drain well removing as much oil as possible.. In a small saucepan, put wine, sauted onions and remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half. Taste, adjusting vinegar and salt if necessary. Pour over fish fillets. Serve. >From the Kitchens al-Sayyid A'aql ibn Rashid al-Zib, Mar. 5, 1999 Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 07:31:46 EST From: WOLFMOMSCA at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Cooking over embers -- stove equivalent? Brighid writes: << The instructions are to cook it in the casserole dish with herbs and a small amount of liquid over the coals/embers ("brasas"). Other similar recipes for fish in casserole, suggest the oven as an alternative, though the recipe for sardines discourages the use of the oven, on the grounds that it provides heat above and below and may be too hot. From this I conclude that a fairly gentle heat is called for. If I have little experience in redacting, I have none in fireplace cookery. Can some more knowledgeable gentle tell me what level of heat would simulate cooking over embers? >> Sounds suspiciously like poached salmon. You can do it in the oven, but stovetop works best. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce heat & simmer, uncovered, for 3-4 minutes, or until you can loosen the middle bone (if using salmon steaks) or the flesh is bright orangey-pink and flakes in big chunks. Depending on the wood used to create the embers, the heat of the embers will vary, sometimes considerably. This dish would be watched constantly, and the doneness of the fish would tell the cook when to pull it off the coalbed. Wolfmom Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 10:43:38 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Cooking over embers -- stove equivalent? And it came to pass on 12 Mar 99,, that WOLFMOMSCA at aol.com wrote: > Brighid writes: > << The instructions are to cook it in > the casserole dish with herbs and a small amount of liquid over the > coals/embers ("brasas"). >> > > Sounds suspiciously like poached salmon. You can do it in the oven, but > stovetop works best. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce > heat & simmer, uncovered, for 3-4 minutes, or until you can loosen the > middle bone (if using salmon steaks) or the flesh is bright orangey-pink > and flakes in big chunks. I thought so at first, but I read through the entire fish section of the _Libro de Guisados_. There are 6 primary methods listed for cooking fish: spit-roasted ("asado"), grilled on gratings ("en parrillas"), fried ("fritos"), in pastry ("en pan"), in casserole ("en cazuela"), and boiled ("cocido"). Of these, "cocido" seems to correspond directly to poaching. The fish is cooked with water and salt and sometimes oil. Herbs and other things may be added for flavoring. Many of the recipes for this method specify that the water is to be boiling before the fish is added. Fish done "en cazuela", on the other hand, is placed in the casserole with spices, herbs, and a small amount of liquid: verjuice or orange juice and/or oil. It is then cooked on the embers or in the oven. Several of the recipes specify that the casserole must be tightly covered, and if it is not, it should be cooked in the oven. I imagine that this is to ensure that the fish is exposed to heat on top, since it is apparently not covered by the liquid. > Depending on the wood used to create the embers, the heat of the embers > will vary, sometimes considerably. This dish would be watched constantly, > and the doneness of the fish would tell the cook when to pull it off the > coalbed. Hmmm... maybe at a gentle simmer, tightly covered? > Wolfmom Thank you for your suggestions. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:38:36 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Cooking over embers -- stove equivalent? Robin Carroll-Mann wrote: > > << The instructions are to cook it in > > the casserole dish with herbs and a small amount of liquid over the > > coals/embers ("brasas"). >> > I thought so at first, but I read through the entire fish section of the > _Libro de Guisados_. There are 6 primary methods listed for > cooking fish: spit-roasted ("asado"), grilled on gratings ("en > parrillas"), fried ("fritos"), in pastry ("en pan"), in casserole ("en > cazuela"), and boiled ("cocido"). > > Of these, "cocido" seems to correspond directly to poaching. The > fish is cooked with water and salt and sometimes oil. Herbs and > other things may be added for flavoring. Many of the recipes for > this method specify that the water is to be boiling before the fish is > added. > > Fish done "en cazuela", on the other hand, is placed in the > casserole with spices, herbs, and a small amount of liquid: verjuice > or orange juice and/or oil. It is then cooked on the embers or in the > oven. Several of the recipes specify that the casserole must be > tightly covered, and if it is not, it should be cooked in the oven. I > imagine that this is to ensure that the fish is exposed to heat on > top, since it is apparently not covered by the liquid. The closest expression used in culinary English would be braising, which sounds etymologically linked to the term "brasas". There are two types of braising, a white version in which the ingredients are not browned before adding liquid, and a brown verison in which they are. The latter seems to be more common, but certain dishes ranging from Irish Stew to Blanquette of Veal seem to fall into the former category, and so does this salmon dish. In theory braised dishes (especially those where you have large chunks of foods, usually meats, braised whole rather than in chunks) should only be covered partially covered with liquid, generally halfway up the side of the meat. > Hmmm... maybe at a gentle simmer, tightly covered? Possibly. I think the idea of using the embers is that they have a relatively gentle a stable heat, and also perhaps because they can be banked up the sides if the pot. Your best bet might be to cook the dish in something like a Dutch oven or covered casserole in the oven, or perhaps with some kind of heat diffuser (possibly one of those asbestos gizmos) on a low heat on top of the stove. Does the recipe specify covering the dish? If not, cooking it uncovered on top of the stove (which would presumably require _very_ gentle heat, and long cooking) might be the closest to what the original author has in mind. Adamantius Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 00:21:45 -0500 From: Christine A Seelye-King <mermayde at juno.com> Subject: Re: SC - Cooking over embers -- stove equivalent? >Fish done "en cazuela", on the other hand, is placed in the >casserole with spices, herbs, and a small amount of liquid: verjuice >or orange juice and/or oil. It is then cooked on the embers or in the >oven. Several of the recipes specify that the casserole must be >tightly covered, and if it is not, it should be cooked in the oven. I >imagine that this is to ensure that the fish is exposed to heat on >top, since it is apparently not covered by the liquid. >Brighid What you describe here sounds most like the method known as "braising". Braising is usually a 'moist roasting' method, and is done with meats or vegetables in a small amount of liquid in the oven. The fact that they are not covered allows the meat to roast, the small amount of liquid ensures a moistness in the finished product. It also makes for a wonderful sauce, using the reduced cooking liquid that has the drippings in it. (Kind of like deglazing the pan without that step). The liquid can also be used for basting. In the case of a fish steak, the basting would serve to cook the top of the meat as well. Christianna Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 17:27:10 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Cooking over embers -- stove equivalent? And it came to pass on 12 Mar 99,, that Philip & Susan Troy wrote: > Robin Carroll-Mann wrote: [snip] > > Fish done "en cazuela", on the other hand, is placed in the > > casserole with spices, herbs, and a small amount of liquid: verjuice or > > orange juice and/or oil. It is then cooked on the embers or in the > > oven. Several of the recipes specify that the casserole must be tightly > > covered, and if it is not, it should be cooked in the oven. I imagine > > that this is to ensure that the fish is exposed to heat on top, since it > > is apparently not covered by the liquid. > > The closest expression used in culinary English would be braising, which > sounds etymologically linked to the term "brasas". There are two types of > braising, a white version in which the ingredients are not browned before > adding liquid, and a brown verison in which they are. The latter seems to > be more common, but certain dishes ranging from Irish Stew to Blanquette > of Veal seem to fall into the former category, and so does this salmon > dish. I agree. There is definitely no instruction to brown or fry the salmon before it is braised. > In theory braised dishes (especially those where you have large > chunks of foods, usually meats, braised whole rather than in chunks) > should only be covered partially covered with liquid, generally halfway up > the side of the meat. Even less, I think. The instruction in this particular recipe is to cook it with a little verjuice or orange juice ("un poco de agraz or de zumo de naranjas"). Some of the other fish casserole recipes call for no liquid other than a little oil. To me it sounds like just enough to give the fish some moisture and flavor. > > Hmmm... maybe at a gentle simmer, tightly covered? > > Possibly. I think the idea of using the embers is that they have a > relatively gentle a stable heat, and also perhaps because they can be > banked up the sides if the pot. Your best bet might be to cook the dish in > something like a Dutch oven or covered casserole in the oven, or perhaps > with some kind of heat diffuser (possibly one of those asbestos gizmos) on > a low heat on top of the stove. Of the two, I think I like the oven idea better. I'm less likely to end up with salmon crisp. > Does the recipe specify covering the dish? If not, cooking it uncovered on > top of the stove (which would presumably require _very_ gentle heat, and > long cooking) might be the closest to what the original author has in > mind. This recipe does not mention a cover (or the lack of a cover). Some of the other fish recipes say that the casserole should be covered if it is cooked on the embers, and if it is not, then it should go into the oven. Some other recipes, like the salmon, do not mention a cover. I do not know if the omission is deliberate or not. At this point, I think I am inclined to try the salmon -- uncovered -- in the oven, and see how that does. > Adamantius Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 12:25:48 -0600 From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US> Subject: RE: SC - Re: seder menu. > > The term whitefish is also used to describe the beluga > > sturgeon. > > Interesting! By whom, and why? Beluga sturgeon is a little redundant, but descriptive. In Russian, sturgeon is beyluga, as the beluga whale is beylukha. The root is beylii or white with an augmentative suffix, thus a rough literal translation of sturgeon is whitefish, while the beluga whale translates as white whale. It would be interesting to see what the Russian call the North American whitefish. Having reached the limits of my massive knowledge of Russian liguistics, I'm now probably the one in trouble. > Adamantius Bear Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 08:50:36 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Tuna Recipe? THLRenata at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone out there know of a good, preferably period recipe for fresh tuna? I believe Chiquart's 15th-century recipe for Parmesan Pies (Tourtes of Parma, etc.), the fish-day version, recommends tuna as one possible fish to use. It's a long recipe, although I believe HG Cariadoc has his lady wife's, Mistress Elizabeth's, translation webbed. Basically it is a large pie with layers of dried fruit and fish, possibly some custard; I'd have to check on the details. Adamantius Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 14:39:39 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Tuna Recipe? And it came to pass on 9 Jul 99,, that H B wrote: > Not period, of course, but when I lived in Portland, OR, we grilled > 'em. Tuna steak, halibut steak, salmon steak - all go great on the > grill (just be careful turning). Tuna, I think we just marinaded ~20 > minutes in teriaki sauce first. Yum! I beg to disagree. Grilling fish is period. Taillevent (14th c. French) recommends grilling sole and salmon, and there are various 16th c. Spanish recipes for grilling fish, including tuna. (Recipes to follow in another post, Ras. I have to translate 'em first.) The teriyaki sauce is another matter, of course... > -- Harriet Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 21:54:00 EDT From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: Re: SC - Tuna Recipe? harper at idt.net writes: << I have to translate 'em first.) >> Well, I looked up one in Cariadoc's already translated version in his collection. It 's there. :-) Ras Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 14:39:39 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Tuna Recipe? And it came to pass on 10 Jul 99,, that Philip & Susan Troy wrote: > Personally I'd recommend marinating a couple of hours in salt water, then > patting dry and switching to a marinade of olive oil, fresh thyme and > possibly some garlic. Then you can either grill rare or medium rare, > depending on squeamishness levels, or braise in more (or the same) olive > oil, white wine, perhaps orange or lemon juice, maybe some tomato dice > thrown in at the end. With the exception of the tomato, this closely resembles several of the cooking suggestions I have seen for tuna in period Spanish recipes. > Adamantius Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 01:41:29 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Tuna Recipe? And it came to pass on 9 Jul 99,, that THLRenata at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone out there know of a good, preferably period recipe for fresh > tuna? > Renata > Barony of Altavia > Kingdom of Caid > Los Angeles, CA Tuna recipes.... tuna recipes... yup. I have some... all untested, I'm afraid. TOINA EN PARRILLAS -- Tuna on the Grill Source: Libro de Guisados (Spanish, 1529) Translation: mine Take from the tuna from the forward part of the belly, well cleaned; and anoint it with oil, and also anoint the grill and set it to roast over a few coals; and anoint them little by little with oil and afterwards make your sauce with water and salt and oil, and orange juice and pepper and all the good herbs shredded or cut fine: and when they want to eat put our fish on the plate, and cast this sauce on top; and if you want to make another sauce, such as rocket or another, let it be at your pleasure. PARA COZER PEDAZOS DE ATUN EN CAZUELA, Y EN PARILLAS -- To Cook Pieces of Tuna in Casserole, and on the Grill Source: Libro Del Arte De Cozina Translation: Mine Take the pieces of tuna cleaned of their skin, and put them in marinade for two hours, made of vinegar, white wine, boiled wine, ground pepper, and a crushed clove of garlic, and salt, and put in pieces as thick as two fingers, no more, and each one of six pounds, in a tart pan or a casserole, in which there is oil from sweet olives, and cook them like tarts with fire beneath and on top, and when they are half cooked add a little of the marinade they were in, and when they are cooked, serve it with your little flavor (saborcillo?) on top. The pieces which are roasted on the grill are of the same size and thickness, and are powdered with salt, the best of fennel, and pepper, and are put in a vessel, in which there is oil, and after being in the oil for an hour they are removed, and roasted on the grill in the same manner as pike, and then serve them hot with the same sauce as pike. You can also roast on the grill those pieces which were in marinade, serving them hot with the same marinade. PARA HAZER LOS PEDAZOS DE ATUN DE OTRA MANERA -- To Make the Pieces of Tuna in Another Manner Source: Libro Del Arte De Cozina Translation: Mine Take ten pieces of tuna of six pounds each, scaled, and put them in a tinned casserole with chopped onion with oil, white wine, verjuice, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and as much salt as is necessary, and a little water tinted with saffron, and make it finish cooking with fire below and above, in the manner that one cooks tarts, and serve them hot with the same broth on top. In all of the above mentioned manners they prepare slices, stuffed slices, and vazias (?), of the pulp of the tuna. PULPETONES DE ATUN RELLENOS, Y ASSADOS EN EL ASSADOR - -- Large Slices of Stuffed Tuna, Roasted on the Spit Source: Libro Del Arte De Cozina Translation: Mine Being that the flesh of the tuna is much more colored than the other fishes, because of this they are accustomed to make stuffed slices from it. Take the leanest part, cut the slices the length of a palm, the thickness of a finger, give each one four or five blows with the flat of a knife, and sprinkle it with the best of fennel, and salt, and have a composition made of the paunch of the fattest part of the tuna, and tuna of salted flank in a third of the quantity of the paunch, and chop them togehter, one with the other, like sausage, adding to it odiferous herbs, and you can put grated cheese in place of the tuna flank, and raw egg yolks with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and saffron, and if it seems [desirable] to you, garlic. Fill the slices with the said composition, and cause it to roast on the spit, anointing them from time to time with garlic, and verjuice, mixed with boiled wine, and being cooked serve them hot with little flavor (saborcillo?) on top. Of the pulp of the tuna they make all these viands and stews that we have said of the pike, and the same of its innards. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 21:31:38 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: SC - Grilled tuna redaction I got around to testing the marinated-and-grilled part of the tuna recipes I posted recently. Here is the recipe again, for those who didn't keep it: PARA COZER PEDAZOS DE ATUN EN CAZUELA, Y EN PARILLAS -- To Cook Pieces of Tuna in Casserole, and on the Grill Source: Libro Del Arte De Cozina (Spanish, 1599) Translation: Mine Take the pieces of tuna cleaned of their skin, and put them in marinade for two hours, made of vinegar, white wine, boiled wine, ground pepper, and a crushed clove of garlic, and salt, and put in pieces as thick as two fingers, no more, and each one of six pounds, in a tart pan or a casserole, in which there is oil from sweet olives, and cook them like tarts with fire beneath and on top, and when they are half cooked add a little of the marinade they were in, and when they are cooked, serve it with your little flavor (saborcillo?) on top. The pieces which are roasted on the grill are of the same size and thickness, and are powdered with salt, the best of fennel, and pepper, and are put in a vessel, in which there is oil, and after being in the oil for an hour they are removed, and roasted on the grill in the same manner as pike, and then serve them hot with the same sauce as pike. You can also roast on the grill those pieces which were in marinade, serving them hot with the same marinade. - - - - I went to the liquor store and bought two inexpensive Spanish wines: a dry white and a not-dry, fruity red. I boiled the latter in my microwave in a glass measuring cup, until it was reduced by half. I then made the following marinade: 1/2 cup white wine 1/2 cup boiled red wine 1 teaspoon of red wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, chopped (more than the recipe calls for, but I like garlic) 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper several vigorous shakes of salt I marinated a yellowfin tuna steak in this mixture for two hours in the refrigerator. I then grilled it until slightly pink in the center. Comments: the wine and garlic flavors were very subtle. Since period cooks undoubtedly marinated their fish at somewhat warmer temperatures than are found in my fridge, next time I might try a longer marinating period, to see if that produces a stronger flavor. I also did not serve the grilled fish with hot marinade as a sauce, not knowing how much heating of the marinade might be needed to make the marinade safe. Next time I think I will make some extra marinade for sauce and keep it separate from the the raw fish. Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999 07:50:26 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: SC - Harpestreng fish recipe consensus??? In an attempt to stem the tide of rampant Mushy Stuff (tm) from certain quarters, I will introduce a small conundrum from this week's headliner topic, the various Harpestreng manuscript cookbooks found across Northern Europe. Grewe's translation of recipe 10 in both Codices K and D follows: "How fish is condimented in a sauce appropriate to them. "One should take bream and pike or other fish, and fry them well, and baste them with the oil, which were mentioned earlier*. When they are well fried, pour off the oil, and pound with vinegar and squeeze through a cloth. These sauces are called 'Inder iaeght.' They are good for all kinds of fish." *Recipes 1 and 2 in both the codices K and D, as well as Q and, in the second recipe, W, but not Q, are for extracting walnut and almond oil. It seems as if this is a sauce of pureed, oily fried fish, thinned with vinegar. Not unlike escabeche served over another fish dish. Pretty civilized, if you ask me! Does it sound like I'm missing something here? I've eaten fish fried, uncoated, until somewhat dry but chewy, and of a concentrated, somewhat caramelized flavor, and I think this might be the kind of fried fish the recipe is talking about. That kind of flavor, sitting on top of, say, grilled tuna steak, might be a Good Thing, a precursor to the various Tonnato sauces found today in Italy. Comments would be appreciated. Adamantius Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 11:21:17 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Can medieval food be heart-smart? And it came to pass on 26 Sep 99,, that ChannonM at aol.com wrote: > However, unsauced, non breaded or [non]-deep > fried fish is not what I have seen as beeing welcomed at feasts and I > guess that's what I was alluding to. I'll try to be more specific in the > future The French, Spanish, and Italian cookbooks all have recipes for grilled fish. They are served with sauces that are flavorful, with ingredients like bread, verjuice or vinegar, herbs and/or garlic, and are often low-fat (and where oil is added, it would be the heart-healthy olive oil). I have not yet had an opportunity to serve fish at a feast, but I think I will give it a try next time. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:43:40 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: SC - Cominee de poissons Phillipa asked for this, I believe... Cuminade of Fish "Poultry flavoured with cumin. Cut it into pieces and put it to cook in a little wine, then fry it in fat; then take a little bread dipped in your broth and take first ginger and cumin, moisten them with verjuice, bray and strain and put all together with meat or chicken broth, and then color it either with saffron or with eggs or yolks run through a strainer and dropped slowly into the pottage, after it is taken off the fire. Item, best it is to make it with milk as aforesaid and then to bray your bread after your spices, but behoveth it to boil the milk first lest it burn, and after the pottage is finished let the milk be put into wine (meseemeth this is not needful) and fry it. Many there be that fry it not, nathless it tastes best so. "(Bread is the thickening and afterwards he saith eggs, which is another thickening, and one should suffice, as is said in the chapter concerning the cretonnee. Verjuice and wine.--If you would make your pottage with milk behoveth not to use wine or verjuice.) "Commine for a fish day. Fry your fish, then peel almonds and bray them and dilute with pure or fish broth and make milk of almonds; but cow's milk is more appetising, though not so healthy for the sick; and for the rest do as above. Item, on a meat day, if you cannot have cow's milk, you may make the dish of milk of almonds and meat as above." Le Menagier de Paris, trans. Eileen Power; Harcourt, Brace New York 1928 I envision this dish as something like fish fillets in a curry flavored almond-milk sauce, just a bit like a very mild Singapore-type curry. The dish is intended as a spoon-food, so the fish should be either in chunks or soft enough to break up easily. For eight servings: 2 pounds white, lean ("non-fishy") fillets or steaks, such as cod, bass, monkfish, etc. 2-3 Tbs olive oil for frying Almond milk made from 1/4 pound finely ground blanched almonds (1 cup) and 1 pint boiling water, fish stock, or pea broth, blended and strained 1-inch chunk ginger root, grated or 1 1/2 tsp ground ginger ~3 Tbs ground cumin seed 1 pinch saffron salt and pepper Season the fish with salt and pepper and either saute or bake at 400 F in a greased pan. Olive oil is best for this. Cook for about eight minutes per inch of thickness of your fish, til fish is barely opaque inside and flaky. Keep the fish warm. Meanwhile, cook the ginger over low heat in a saucepan, with a little more oil. When aromatic, but no longer volatile (you'll know it when you see it), add cumin and saffron. Do not brown. Add almond milk and mix thoroughly. Raise heat a bit and bring it to a boil, stirring frequently until thickened slightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add more cumin if you feel like it. You can blenderize and/or strain the sauce if you want it smoother and/or thinner. Pour it over the fish and mess it forth. Recommended garnish - Durkee French Fried Onion Rings. OK, I'm kidding, but we happened to have them on hand and people did like them on top...that was when restaurants were into that Tall Food thing... Adamantius Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 06:44:34 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Eel? "Michael F. Gunter" wrote: > We are looking at > <snip> fish balls in parsley sauce, Would this be a Scandinavian fiskboller-type thing? I mention this only because I've served salmon balls, well, dumpling thingies, anyway, based on a recipe in, I think, The Forme of Cury, for saumon gentil. It calls for raw, boned salmon meat to be minced and made more or less homogeneous in a mortar, then the forcemeat is exruded through a cut off cow's horn (like a pastry bag, which is what we used) into boiling water, then cooked and drained, cut into portions, and served with a dusting of ground cumin. We actually served ours on top of a green sauce made with lots of parsley, as a matter of fact. Also sage, a little chervil, a few scallions, etc. Tricks to be scrupulously observed for future use of this recipe would be to trim off all the skin (which we did) but to leave the fat (which we did not) to help keep it all moist. You also want to be aware that they cook in a flash, in total disregard of the fine calculation work done by the eminent Canadian fisheries lady, Mrs. Spencer (she of the eight-minutes-per-inch-of-thickness rule). Still and all, this is the one time I served a dish that prompted a lady to leap up on top of her table and proceed to tell the tale of Finn Mac Cumhal and the Salmon of Knowledge. _I_ thought it was pretty cool... Adamantius Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:50:27 -0000 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Nanna_R=F6gnvaldard=F3ttir?=" <nannar at isholf.is> Subject: Re: SC - Eel? Adamantius wrote: >Would this be a Scandinavian fiskboller-type thing? There is a recipe for fishballs in parsley sauce in the 1616 Danish Koge Bog - the forcemeat is made of pike, carp or other fish, mixed with breadcrumbs and chopped parsley roots _and_ leaves, and seasoned with salt, saffron, ginger and pepper. Made into balls the size of hens eggs, boiled, cut in two and served in a parsley sauce "but if you do not want it green, then make it yellow". Nanna Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 06:31:14 -0500 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - quenelles? Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote: > anyone who can think of an example in a medieval cookbook of minced meat > mixed with dough to make fritters and boiled in water? I know its too much > to ask for the sauce mournay...:) The closest I can think of would be the 14th-century English saumon gentil, which I have _somewhere_ on disk (and it's from Curye On Inglysch) but cannot currently access. It calls for saumon to be pounded in a mortar and, I think, pushed through a sieve, then extruded through a horn with a wooden plunger (yes, like a pastry bag or one of those cookie shooters) into boiling water, poached and served with a dusting of ground cumin. True, there's no pate a choux element, but as often as not quenelle don't have that either. Many do have added egg white, though, but anybody who's ever poached a salmon and seen that nasty white stuff that adheres to it knows how much albumen is already in salmon. This dish makes a fairly decent retro-quenelle. Adamantius Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 00:20:38 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - RE: Roe And it came to pass on 10 Mar 00,, that LrdRas at aol.com wrote: > As a side > note, bluegill roe is particularly tasty as I bullhead roe. Soak, saute in > butter and then mix with scrambled eggs for a tasty breakfast or brunch > dish. Granado has a recipe for a sturgeon roe omelette. Take ten hen's eggs, and a pound of fresh roe... Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 10:57:20 EDT From: Seton1355 at aol.com Subject: SC - Re: [Rinaslist] TART DE BRYMLENT (A MEDIEVAL LENTEN TART) << Title: TART DE BRYMLENT (A MEDIEVAL LENTEN TART) Categories: Tarts, Seafood, British, Holiday Yield: 6 servings Dough; for 9 inch pie crust 1 1/2 lb Salmon; cod, haddock or a mixture 2 tb Lemon juice 2 tb Butter 2 ea Pears;peeled, cored & thinly sliced 2 ea Apples;peeled,cored & thinly sliced 1 c White wine 2 tb Lemon juice 2 tb Brown sugar 5 ea Cubebs:* , thinly crushed 1/8 ts Cloves, ground 1/8 ts Nutmeg 1/4 ts Cinnamon 1/2 c Raisins 10 ea Prunes; pitted & minced 6 ea Dates; minced 6 ea Figs, dried; minced 3 tb Red currant jelly; or Damson *"The cubeb, an aromatic pepper commonly used in medieval times, can still be bought in many spice shops." Preheat the oven to 425F and bake the pie crust for 10 minutes. Let cool. Cut the fish into 1 1/2" chunks, salt lightly ands sprinkle with 2 tbsp lemon juice. Set aside. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet and toss the pear and apple slices in it until they are lightly coated. Combine the wine, lemon juice, brown sugar, spices and dried fruits, and add to the mixture in the skillet. Cover and simmer about 15 minutes or until the fruit is soft but still firm. Check the flavoring, and drain off excess liquid. Paint jelly on the pie crust. Combine fish chunks with fruit and place the mixture in the crust. Bake at 375F for 15-25 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. SOAR - the Searchable Online Archive of Recipes (http://soar.Berkeley.EDU/recipes/) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 03:34:43 -0000 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Nanna_R=F6gnvaldard=F3ttir?=" <nannar at isholf.is> Subject: Re: SC - pollack.. Ras wrote: >I'm not certain but Miriam -Webster says> > >pol*lack or pol*lock (noun), plural pollack or pollock > >[Middle English poullok, perhaps from ScotGael pollag or Irish pollog] > >First appeared 15th Century > > 1 : a commercially important north Atlantic food fish (Pollachius virens) >related to and resembling the cods but darker Yes, but as I've said, pollack and pollock are not the same fish. Pollack (Pollachius pollachius) is the English name for a fish caught in the North Atlantic - quite good to eat but not very important commercially - usually about 40-50 centimetres long. (Atlantic) pollock is the American name for saithe, somwhat larger and much more abundant; the flesh of an adult fish is greyish in color, has more fat than cod and rather coarse but younger fish are whiter and more finely textured. Alaska pollock (walleye pollock) is another species (Theragra chalcogramma), fairly similar to Atlantic pollock but I understand it is whiter, especially if it has only been frozen once. This last one is the type used for imitation "crab meat". Nanna Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 07:39:41 -0600 From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat at in-tch.com> Subject: Re: SC - pollack and pollock Interestingly enough, my dictionary uses both words to indicate the same fish (as a spelling variation, I thought!) I baked some of it for dinner last night (lemon/pepper sauce), and it turned out to be a very nice, firm white fish. Not an overly "fishy" taste, and held together well--wasn't falling apart or anything. Texture reminded me of cod or halibut. Would probably work pretty good in cod-related fish recipes for a feast. Did not seem to be affected by probably having been frozen (hard to tell out here, sometimes, but it's a pretty safe bet that most ocean/coastal fish is frozen even when they say "fresh.") Hmmm, time to discover this flori-thingy.... - --Maire Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 11:25:38 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Squary scad enquiry > "What sort of fish did the Tudors know as a squary scad?" Dunno about a squary scad, but the word scad is related to the word "shad", which is a large, herring-like, oily fish which lives in the ocean and spawns in river estuaries. The word "scad", nowadays, refers to what used to be known as a saurel, or horse mackerel. I;d bet on one or the other of those two, which doesn't necessarily answer the question... Adamantius Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 21:01:38 -0000 From: "Nanna Rognvaldardottir" <nanna at idunn.is> Subject: Re: SC - Weird fish names Vicente wrote: >Palamida: the editor of the source text cites it as a transliteration of a >fish called "pelamide" in Catalan. Bonito. >bisol: no idea whatsoever. "Bisso" and "bis" are Catalan names of the chub mackarel (Scomber japonicus colias), according to Mediterranean Seafood by Alan Davidson - I wonder if that could be it. >saiton: described as a bitter fish, best eaten with the head and entrails >removed. Don't know - will see what I can find. Nanna Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:13:17 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Weird fish names And it came to pass on 6 Sep 00,, that Nanna Rognvaldardottir wrote: > Vicente wrote: > >bisol: no idea whatsoever. > > "Bisso" and "bis" are Catalan names of the chub mackarel (Scomber > japonicus colias), according to Mediterranean Seafood by Alan Davidson - I > wonder if that could be it. I think so. Grewe (in the footnotes to _Libre de Sent Sovi_) says that bisol is the plural of bis, and he identifies it as Scomber japonicus colias. > >saiton: described as a bitter fish, best eaten with the head and entrails > >removed. > > Dont know - will see what I can find. This one is more of a stretch, but... Grewe lists "seito" (also spelled "xeyto" as a synonym of "aladroc", which is Catalan for anchovy (Engraulis encrasicholus). This is confirmed by the second website listed below. However, I do not know fish well enough to know if the anchovy matches Nola's description. Here are the websites I mentioned, which have some lists of Catalan food terminology. They are modern, but may still be of help: http://www.uib.es/secc6/slg/gt/noms_peixos.html http://www.gencat.es/dict/serveis/servling/alimenta.htm Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:46:54 -0500 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: Gefilte fish (was Re: [Sca-cooks] Jewish Haiku) >I asked the SCA-Judaica list the same question and some people said that >"jewish" recipes were just kosher versions of country-of-origin recipes, >which I tend to agree with. > >From what I read about gefillte fish along the way all these years, it seems >that gefillte fish came about for the Jews as a way to have a fish dish on >the Sabbath when no cooking was allowed and also to "dress up" the taste of >what was basicly considered trash fish. (although this last idea could be >mainly 19th C thinking) >Phillipa Certainly it would make sense. Not only is it fairly labor-intensive, so it should be made in advance for holiday use, but it keeps quite well, also, so it _can_ be made in advance, even in the days before artificial refrigeration. As for the trash fish question, that may even be a 20th-century concept. In general modern people are not only pathologically afraid of bones, but utterly ignorant of how to deal with them if they end up on your plate. Carp were being raised in Germany and elsewhere in vivaria in the Middle Ages, which, assuming they were more than just ornamental fish, would support the idea that they were actually preferred, for various reasons. There are a number of classic dishes in Eastern European cuisines (not to mention China) where it seems to be sort of assumed that carp is the fish you'll use (note that pike, another popular gefilte-fish candidate, is another fish with a lot of, and somewhat oddly-placed, bones -- you get five oddly-shaped boneless fillets off a pike if you do it right, as opposed to two off most other fish). This may be because the dishes evolved in places where carp were prevalent, but what is clear is that the prep and cooking methods frequently seem to take carp's boniness and gaminess into account: there's frequently very specific boning, trimming, or marination instructions, sometimes a long cooking to dissolve bones, etc. But none of them seem to say, take this kind of fish, or, if you can't get anything better, use a carp. Adamantius, who likes gefilte fish made from walleye, a.k.a. yellow pike, which is actually a perch Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:11:41 +0200 From: Ides Boone <iboone at africamuseum.be> To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: [Sca-cooks] fish consumption I am working as an archaeozoologist in Belgium. I had to study sieved samples with faunal material from Medieval and Post-Medieval sites from Namur (Belgium). This material consists mainly of freshwater fish and a low proportion of marine fish. Some of the fresh water fish that I identified aren't very popular nowadays. The species present in the material are: strurgeon, eel, trout, grayling, pike, carp, perch, catfish = still eaten now in Belgium. But also a lot of Cyprinids such as: bream, barbel, nose, gudgeon, chub, ide, dace, minnow (Phoxinus phoxinus), bitterling (Rhodeus sericaeus), roach, rudd. Also, I found (almost in equal qunantity as the Cyprinids)a lot bones of the stone loach (Noemaceilus barbatulus), Stickelbacks and Miller's thumb (Cottus gobio). In general most of the fish are small-sized, usually 10-15 sm for the cyprinids. I am very much interested how these species were eaten: fried, in a soup,... Is there anyone who has some information about it or knows some old medieval fishrecipees? Thanks a lot, Ides (Belgium) Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 06:36:42 -0400 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org From: "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius.magister at verizon.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Kippers and Toad-in-the-hole Also sprach taffy at netspace.net.au: > I beleive Kippers are herrings or Mackrel that have been Kippered (A > type of cooking) > > Kipper fillets that we get here in Lochac are about 8-12 inches long > and 3-4 inches wide > > Dafydd > (Lochac) Kippering is a salting-and-cold-smoking process; the default fish, when you say, "Kippers," is herring, split (IIRC) up the belly side, cut past the rib bones along one side of the spine, and the fish opened up like a book. The fish are tied together in pairs by the tails, then hung over a stick in the smokehouse. 8-12 inches long is about right, and I think the width above is the result of that splitting/opening process. I'd be very curious, if someone has access to an OED, as to the origin of the name; it occurs to me that Norwegian klippfisk are also split that way. Do you get actual fillets in Lochac? That's something we usually don't see in the U.S.; we get the split, headless fish (usually from Scotland, I think) in cryovac plastic, and various canned/tinned products (usually rather inexpertly skinned and filleted). Adamantius Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 07:35:00 -0400 From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu> To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Kippers and Toad-in-the-hole "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" wrote: snipped >I'd be very curious, if someone has access to an OED, as to the > origin of the name; it occurs to me that Norwegian klippfisk are also > split that way. Adamantius OED indicates that kipper comes from: A name given to the male salmon (or sea trout) during the spawning season. (The female is then called a shedder.) dates back 1000 AD. 1533-4 Act 25 Hen. VIII, c. 7 That no maner of persone or persones..frome the feaste of the exaltation of the holy crosse to the feaste of Seynt martyn in wynter..kyll or distroye any Salmons not in season called kepper Salmons. 1558 Act 1 Eliz. c. 17 1 Any Salmons or Trouts, not being in Season, being Kepper-Salmons or Kepper-Trouts, Shedder-Salmons or Shedder-Trouts. Preparing a fish-- goes to the 1300's-- with some doubt being expressed-- A kippered fish (salmon, herring, etc.); now esp. a herring so cured: see kipper v. (It is doubtful whether the quots. from the Durham Acc. Rolls belong here; they may relate to the fish in sense 1, without reference to any particular mode of preparation.) 1326 Durham Acc. Rolls (Surtees) 15 In 11 Kypres emp., 3s. 4d. 1340 Durham Acc. Rolls 37 In 6 kypres emp. et 1 salmone salso, 2s. 2d. Kippered as a verb seems to be 18th. Johnnae llyn Lewis From: "Darren Gasser" <kaos at earthlink.net> To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Kippers and Toad-in-the-hole Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:04:03 -0700 johnna holloway wrote: > OED indicates that kipper comes from: > A name given to the male salmon (or sea trout) during the spawning > season. (The female is then called a shedder.) Other sources indicate that the term originated as a color description, Not a culinary one. From The American Heritage, for example: "Middle English kipre, from Old English cypera, spawning male salmon, probably from cyperen, of copper, from coper, copper (because of the fish's color during the spawning season)." -Lorenz Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 14:08:04 -0400 From: johnna holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu> To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Kippers and Toad-in-the-hole The new Middle English Dictionary that is being compiled states: kipre (n.) Also kiper, kippre.[?OE cypera] (a) The male salmon or sea trout during the spawning season; ?also the female during the same season; (b) ?the salmon, sea trout, and possibly other fish which have been cured by salting and smoking. selected quotes are (a) (1376) RParl. 2.331b: Qe null Salmon soit pris en Tamise entre Graveshend & le Pount de Henlee sur Tamise en temps q'il soit kiper: C'est assavoir, entre les Festes de l'Invention del Crois & le Epiphanie. (b) (1326) Acc.R.Dur.in Sur.Soc.99 15: Month 3, week 3, In 11 Kypres emp., 3 s. 4 d. (1333-4) Acc.R.Dur.in Sur.Soc.99 19: In j salmone, playces, et lopsters, et iij kyppres salsis, iij s. viij d. No mention of color--- Copper as a color seems to come from copred (ppl.)[From cper copper.] ?Copper-colored. a1500 Weights in RHS ser.3.41 (Vsp E.9) 18: By this weyght ys sold copred and grey wax. What source note is American Heritage giving for their entry? Were they really copper-colored during spawning or are they copper-colored after being prepared by drying and salting? Johnnae llyn Lewis From: "Darren Gasser" <kaos at earthlink.net> To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Kippers and Toad-in-the-hole Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:31:44 -0700 johnna holloway wrote: > What source note is American Heritage giving for their entry? > Were they really copper-colored during spawning or are they > copper-colored after being prepared by drying and salting? They don't give a source, unfortunately. They, Merriam-Webster, and etymonline.com all connect the use of 'cypera' to 'cyperen' to 'coper,' and attribute this to the fishes' color in spawning season, but don't give a source for this connection. To confuse it further, Walter Skeat says cypera derives from the Old English 'kippian,' ("to spawn"). I'll have to see if he has a source. Silly Anglo-Saxons, always with the confused etymology. Sigh. -Lorenz Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 19:49:26 -0400 From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius at verizon.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Tench To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> On Friday, June 27, 2003, at 05:56 PM, Patrick Levesque wrote: > As I'm not much of a fisherman, and an infrequent eater of fish... > > ...Where is tench generally found, and, in terms of taste, what fish > does it more closely ressemble? The Larousse Gastronomique says it's a small freshwater fish with small scales and whiskers or barbels on either side of its mouth. It apparently has a firm, sweet, white meat, so it is probably comparable to something like perch, but with a gelatinous quality similar to the texture of cod-- if that helps. In medieval English recipes it seems frequently to be partnered with pike, as in, "take luces and tenches", which supports the idea of a firm, sweet, white meat, as does its frequent presence in aigredouce recipes. You might look at: http://justus.anglican.org/resources/pc/walton/angler/chapter11.html which quotes Izaak Walton's chapter on the tench. Adamantius Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 23:51:53 -0500 From: Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Tench To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Tench (Tinca tinca) is Euraian, but since the Latin "tinca" is believed to be of Celtic origin, I'd say it was fairly common in Western Europe. IIRC, it is similar to carp in taste and texture, but it is definitely a Different species. Bear > As I'm not much of a fisherman, ad an infrequent eater of fish... > > ...Where is tench generally found, and, in terms of taste, what fish > does it more closely ressemble? > > Petru Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 17:34:12 +1100 (EST) From: tracey sawyer <tfsawyer at yahoo.com.au> Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Sca-cooks Digest, Vol 6, Issue 11 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Anybody who's actually served fish at a feast care to comment? Margaret *** I absolutely LOVE fish and seafood so I always include it at a fest if possible -- also some vegetarians will eat fish when they won't eat red meat. I did a cold pickled fish dish at the Benevolence crusade which was delicious. HM King Alaric sent the seneschal out to the kitchen on purpose to praise my fish. t's an easy recipe. Soused Mackerel (The Magpie History of Food [Tertiary Source]) I can get the publishing details if anyone wants me to. Ingredients: 2 large mackerel, filleted (or other white fish fillets in season ... this is what I usually us). 1 large onion 1 medium cooking apple 1 t/spoon pickling spices 1 t/spoon soft brown sugar 2 bay leaves 150 ml water 1/2 t/spoon salt 1 t/spoon ground mixed spice 150 ml vinegar Method: Peel and slice onion. Peel and chop apples into narow wedges. Roll each fish fillet around an apple slice, with the skin side outside, place the rolls close together in a smallish casserole dish so that they will not unroll. Put the remaining apple slices and onion rings into the casserole dish. Mi together the rest of the ingredients and pour over the fish. Cook in a pre-heated, cool oven (150 Celsius, Gas Mark 2) for 1 hour. I then chilled it overnight and served it cold in it's jelly. Also, Bowen and Thomasina Freeborn, both chefs, qute often do a salmon mousse in a fish shaped mould which is kind of like a soft pink melt in your mouth dish which doesnt really taste "fishy". Quite delicious!. And living on the Murray River (between NSW & Vic Australia) we have trout which the ocal trout farm smokes. Pick it off the bones and eat as is... mmmmm... These dishes always disappear as soon as they are served.... Lady Lowry ferch Gwynwynwyn ap Llewelyn mka: Tracey Sawyer Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 10:44:11 -0500 From: "Jane Massey" <dylansmom at cox.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish at feasts To: <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> I live in an area that has a big seafood industry, so it is surprising that we don't often serve the stuff. People on whole generally try to steer away from seafood. Seafood is one of those things that if not handled properly, can make people sick (namely shrimp). I love seafood but I have gotten food poisoning twice from eating it. I also don't cook it at home because my husband is deathly allergic to shellfish because of the iodine. I love the stuff and could eat it everyday. As for serving seafood at feasts, I have had luck with serving both salmon and perch in the past. Hot smoked salmon makes a great appetizer dish and people tend to like it better than whole baked fish. I would steer clear away from bony fishes, though grilling them tends to make the meat fall off the bone easier. If you want to take some of the "fishy" taste out of your fish. Soak your fillets for 2 to 5 hours in milk and tabasco. It helps tremendously. I've only done this with whitefish because that's what I tend to get. There is also a recipe in John Murrell's, A Booke of Cookerie (A Little OOP), for Stewed Flounder. I've done the recipe twice for feasts and it always gets eaten up. 1 1/4 lbs of medium Flounder Fillets (Perch and Sole and good too!) 4 Tablespoons of Butter 1 Cup of very thin sliced onions (I like the Red ones or Vidalia) 1 cup of White Wine Vinegar 1 cup of minced Parsley salt to taste 1 tsp of mace 1/2 tsp Crushed Rosemary You can either boil it in a pot. But for feast, we use disposable baking pans. Layer the fish and add all ingredients, cover tightly with foil. This is easy way to poach a large amount of fish at one time. It takes about 30-40 minutes to bake at 400 degrees. If you are looking for other seafood type dishes that might go over well. I know that a member of our cook's guild has found a period recipe for crawfish. Basically a cheese and crawfish pie. Very yummy. I have to get the recipe from him! He's serving it at a feast in the spring, can't wait. Lady Lavender de Morten Barony of Tir-y-Don, Atlantia Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 23:35:51 -0700 From: James Prescott <prescotj at telusplanet.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] period shark, skate etc. recipes? To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> > Do we have any recipes or other indication that the medieval folks ate > shark, skate or other similar fish? Since they show little evidence of > shying away from most sources of food I doubt they did here. But they > may not have tried to specifically catch these fish, either. Sure. Viandier (c. 1395) has two recipes for dogfish (a kind of shark) and one for ray. Ouverture (1604) has six recipes for dogfish. Thorvald Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 21:14:30 -0400 From: "Mairi Ceilidh" jjterlouw at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish equivalents? To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Master Cariadoc asked: > We are going to be doing a recipe at tomorrow's cooking workshop > which calls for luce, tench, or haddock. Neither Elizabeth nor I > does much fish cooking, and we were wondering, if none of those is > available, what other sorts of fish are likely to be similar. > Suggestions? My preference would be hake or groper filets. Both are fairly firm white fish with mild flavors. Very conducive to most period recipes I've tried. Mairi Ceilidh Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 21:18:42 EDT From: KazOSheaaol.com Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish equivalents? To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org ddfr at daviddfriedman.com writes: > luce, tench, or haddock Tench is in the carp family, haddock is in the cod family and I cannot find a cross for luce. So if you can find carp or cod you should be good. Iago Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 0:34:11 -0500 From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish equivalents? To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> I believe you will find luce is also hake. Hake and haddock are related to cod, so cod fillets would probably suffice. Tench is a member of the family Cyprinidea and is related to carp. Bear Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 22:48:21 -0400 From: "a5foil" <a5foil at ix.netcom.com> Sbject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Fish equivalents? To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Greetings from Thomas Longshanks, Luce is pickerel, a freswater predatory game fish related to Pike. Flaky white flesh, moderately firm texture, slightly sweet. Most recipes I've seen suggest whitefish as a substitute. If I had access to freshwater game fish at the fish monger's, I'd go with freshwater bass of any variety as a substitute, but whitefish will do. Tench is allied with the carp. A freshwater bottom feeder. Very bony. Sweet flesh. Similar diet and environment to catfish. Carp will be the best substitute for texture and flavor. In the absence o carp, since Easter is long past, you might try catfish (well-skinned with no muddy fat) for similar flavor, if not texture. Haddock should be available frozen, if not fresh. Cod is the best substitute for texture. Pollock and Whiting are more watery but in the same family. All would be acceptable substitutes. I'd go with cod loins, if you can't find haddock, then pollock, then whiting. Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 13:38:31 -0500 From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Batter frying--the origin of fish and chips? To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> David Friedman wrote: > I recently got into an exchange on a newsgroup, growing in part out of > a webbed piece about the origin of fish and chips. That got me curious > about how early the technique used for the fish--dip in batter and > deep fry--appears. Can anyone think of examples, for fish or even for > other things, in the period corpus? The closest that occurred to me > was fritters--but it isn't clear to me if they were deep fried, and I > don't think any of them were fish. > > The webbed piece was: > http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/3380151.stm There's a paper in the Oxford Symposium on Fish on Fish and Chips and their development. Nothing therein mentions Jewish traditions for the fish frying. Wilson mentions the fried fish in her fish chapter in Food and Drink in Britain and cites PNB or A Proper Newe Book of Cookery. The online edition of that which is the Frere version which would be 1557-58 http://staff-www.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/bookecok.htm Soles or any other fyshes fryed. appears in the second course of a fish day menu. The recipe for A Pyke sauce for a Pyke, Breme, Perche, Roche, Carpe, Eles, Floykes and almaner of brouke fyshe. ends with And also yf you wyll frye them, you muste take a good quantitie of persely, after the fyshe is fryed, put in the persely into the fryinge panne, and let it frye in the butter and take it up and put it on the fryed fyshe, and frye place, whyttinge and suche other fyshe, excepte Eles, freshe Salmon, Conger, which be never fryed but baken, boyled, roosted or sodden. But this seems to indicate pan frying in butter, not deep frying. Johnnae Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 14:02:26 -0500 From: Johnna Holloway <johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Batter frying--the origin of fish and chips? To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Quickly checking Davidson's entry on Fish and Chips in the Oxford Companion, he mentions that Claudia Roden in 1996 (The Book of Jewish Food) ties the Jewish tradition of frying fish in batter and eating them cold as a possible source. I suppose Roden is the next place to look. It would have been a logical place for Professor Panikos Panayi of Leicester's De Montfort University as mentioned in the article to have looked. Johnnae Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 00:10:52 -0800 From: lilinah at earthlink.net Subject: [Sca-cooks] Fish with Tahini To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Tonight i cooked Samak Maqlu bil-Khall wal-Tahiha Fried Fish with Vinegar and Tahini from The Book of the Description of Familiar Foods p. 390 in Medieval Arab Cookery translated by Charles Perry Take salted or fresh fish, then wash it well and dry it, and cut it up medium and fry in sesame oil. Throw a little dry coriander on it. Then take as much vinegar and tahineh as needed and dissolve it until mixed; you moisten it with vinegar little by little until it has the desired consistency. Season it, and if you wish, put in a little ground mustard and nuts, or [nuts]without mustard. Then take it from the pan hot, and first put sesame oil in the pan, and coriander and milled Chinese cinnamon, and it is eaten. So... At the marvelous Berkeley Bowl, i bought a flounder fillet. I assume that originally one took a whole fish and cut it up, but there's just me to cook for. I would rather have had fish cut in a "steak", but everything they had was filleted, so what could i do? Ingredients fish sesame oil ground coriander seed white wine vinegar tahini powdered mustard salt fresh cilantro Chinese cinnamon Before i started cooking i made the sauce. I first mixed mustard powder and some salt into the white wine vinegar. Then i mixed the tahini with the vinegar and some water, because in my experience, tahini gets thick and hard to manage unless a bit more non-oily liquid is added. Then I broke in some walnut pieces. The sauce had the consistency, more or less, of mayonnaise, a bit lighter and fluffier (ok that sounds weird, but well...). Then i heated the sesame oil in a cast iron pan. When it was hot, i put in the fillet, cutting it in half lengthwise, and then crosswise into several pieces. I sprinkled the up side with ground coriander seed. When it seemed one side was cooked, i turned over the fish, and sprinkled the now cooked side with ground coriander. While the fish was cooking, I put some of the tahini sauce in my dish. I don't know how well cooked they liked their fish. Steaks could have been browned a bit on the outside and still have been moist on the inside. I like my fish still a bit moist, so i took it out of the pan before it got too dry. It certainly wasn't the least bit browned. I put the fish on sauce, then topped it with a bit more sauce. I sprinkled it with shredded cilantro. I am embarrassed to say i couldn't find my jar of ground cinnamon. Sigh. I know i'll find it in the morning. It was ok. First, I put a bit too much sauce in my dish. Second, the sauce could have been more highly spiced, although i had just the right amount of vinegar. It was not exciting, but it was ok. Now I will look at some modern "Middle Eastern" recipes for fish with tahini sauce and see how they differ. Tomorrow, i cook the layered vegetable dish, Maghmuma... -- Urtatim, formerly Anahita Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 18:36:38 EDT From: Devra at aol.com Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re Daniel's Fish Story To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org From Pleyn Delit, first edition, redacted from Forme of Curye... Take Makerels and smyte hem on pecys; cast hem on water and verious; seep hem with myntes and with oother erbes; color it greene or yelow, and mess it forth. 2-3 mackerel, amounting to at least 2 lb fish 1 C water, Salted 1/4 C vinegar (white has least dis-coloring effect - but I like cider) 4 large sprigs parsley and 3 or so of fresh mint (if dried mint, ca 1T) 3-4 scallions or green onions Mackerel should be cleaned and the head removed (if desired). Either leave fish whole or cut into pieces (ca 2 in long). Put into cooking pot with scallions, mint and 3 parsley sprigs; pour salted water and vinegar over and bring to a simmer. Cook gently for 15-20 minutes (depending on size.) Remove fish to a serving dish, sprinkle with remaining parsley, finely minced, and pour some of the cooking liquid, strained, over it. (Or use sorrell, minced, or ground with salt, in place of parsley, for the sauce - this is specifically prescribed in the slightly later version.) However, I like to serve it with the cooked greens, which I really like. (You can cut them into 2 inch lengths.) Interesting - I hadn't reread the original version in a long time; didn't realise that it called for verjuice rather than vinegar. So maybe using the cider vinegar isn't all that far off. Anyway, it's very tasty. Devra Devra Langsam www.poisonpenpress.com Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 20:37:48 -0400 From: Robin Carroll-Mann <rcmann4 at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Spanish Mackerel To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Daniel Phelps wrote: > I'm thinking about stuffing smaller ones per Beard in the future. > Anyone have any alternative period suggestions. Well... how about a Spanish recipe? 217. CHUB MACKEREL BISOLES EN CAZUELA "Open the mackerel, and having well-cleaned and washed them, take all common spices, and all the herbs except marjoram. Then take raisins, and almonds, and pine nuts, and toasted hazelnuts, and all this together with the herbs; and with the other things, put it in the casserole with a little oil; and when the mackerel are half cooked, take a few hazelnuts and new raisins cleaned of their seeds, and grind it all together, and let it go into the casserole; and if you wish to cook them in another manner, such as roasted, you must cook them in the same manner as the sardines; and doing it in that manner, you cannot err." The instructions for roasting sardines are: "...and if you want to eat them roasted, they should be eaten with orange juice, and oil, and salt, and a little water, and pepper, and all the herbs except moraduj which is marjoram, which is also called malgilana." Ruperto de Nola, Libro de Cozina (Spanish, 1529) Translation by Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann) http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-MANUSCRIPTS/Guisados2-art.text -- Brighid ni Chiarain Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 05:34:47 -0800 (PST) From: Sandra Jakl <kieralady2 at yahoo.com> Subject: [Sca-cooks] Dutch paintings to rays to fish types in Rumpolt To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org >>> Likewise one painting had what looked like ray-type fishes displayed. Were rays eaten and has anyone seen a recipe? Renata ::Dusting off my Art History degree:: <<< I was working on a listing of the types of fish that Rumpolt has recipes for. I'm at work at the moment, without the book, so I don't know remember there was a woodcut image or not, but something either looked like or translated to a type of ray. Rochen -skate / stingray? Best Regards, Clara von Ulm Here is my in-progress list for those interested. Please note I haven't error checked it yet. Aal - eel Austern - shellfish (mussel/clam types) barben Bersig Biscorn Bu:cking Cabellaw Capelungen Capoditzen / Meerspinnen - sea spiders Cerdeli Dieck Esch Foren / Forellen Fro:schen - frogs Grundel Hausen Hecht - pike Hering - herring Huechen Iunnen Hechten - ?? pike Ka:rpelein Karauschten Karpffen - carp Koppen Krebssen Lobster/crabs Kressen Lampreten Lauben MeerGrillen / Gambarn - sea crickets Meerzungen - sea tongues Muscheln - shellfish of some type Nasen Nerffling Neunaugen - NIne-eyes? Pfrillen Plateissen Polch Puttes Rencken Rheinfisch Rochen -skate / stingray? Rot Euglein Rutten Sa:lmling Salmen Sangel Schaiden Schied Schildtro:ten - tortoise Schleyen Schnecken - snails Schretzel schwartzen Muscheln - black shells Steinbeisser Sto:ren Stockfisch Unbiess Weiss Foren Zindel Zwilling Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 07:53:12 -0800 (PST) From: "Cat ." <tgrcat2001 at yahoo.com> Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Rumpolt fishes To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org >>> I was working on a listing of the types of fish that Rumpolt has recipes for. I'm at work at the moment, without the book, so I don't know remember there was a woodcut image or not, but something either looked like or translated to a type of ray. <<< Here is a quick and dirty translation of the listing you gave. Please note it is QUICK, DIRTY and if there is any doubt assume Im erring toward modern (they may well have been soemthing else in period, but at the moment Im too swamped to hunt, so feel free to take Thomas or someone elses opinon.) I put the Gwen Cat translation (if I had one) in front. In Service and hoping NOT to be steppign on any toes or repeating what has already been done (am on digest) Gwen Cat Rochen is a ray in general though it may be a stech rochen which is the modern for stingray eel - Aal - eel oyster - Austern - shellfish (mussel/clam types) barben Bersig Biscorn kipper - Bu:cking cod (codfish) - Cabellaw Capelungen Capoditzen / Meerspinnen - sea spiders Cerdeli Dieck Esch trout - Foren / Forellen frogs - Fro:schen - frogs common gudgeon (Gobio gobio) - Grundel sturgeon - Hausen pike - Hecht - pike herring - Hering - herring Huechen pickerell aka young pike?) - Iunnen Hechten - ?? pike possibley little carp - Ka:rpelein Karauschten carp - Karpffen - carp Koppen crabs (also lobsters) Krebssen Lobster/crabs Kressen possibly lamprey-eel - Lampreten Lauben shrimp - MeerGrillen / Gambarn - sea crickets sea toungue - Meerzungen - sea tongues shellfish (including scallops) - Muscheln - shellfish of some type noses??? - Nasen Nerffling nine eyes (lamprey) - Neunaugen - NIne-eyes? Pfrillen flat iron (another flat fish no clue) Plateissen Polch Puttes Rencken perhaps fish from the Rhine?) - Rheinfisch ray (in general) - Rochen -skate / stingray? red little eye (no clue) Rot Euglein Rutten salmon - Sa:lmling (not sure salmon plural?) - salmen Sangel Schaiden Schied tortoise/turtle - Schildtro:ten - tortoise tink (Tinca tinca ) - Schleyen snails - Schnecken - snails Schretzel black shells - schwartzen Muscheln - black shells turbot - Steinbeisser Sto:ren stockfish (so it says) - Stockfisch Unbiess white trout - Weiss Foren Zindel literally twin - Zwilling Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:22:08 -0400 From: Elaine Koogler <ekoogler1 at comcast.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Introduction and a Request To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> Irene leNoir wrote: > * A couple of people have mentioned fish dishes. I appreciate you > thinking of them, but I think I'm going to have to pass on all fish. > (First, much as I love seafood, I'm just not sure how well it will fly > with my household of mostly fighter types. Second, being from > practically the coast of Massachusetts, I'm not too keen on the idea > of what the quality of fish in oh-so-very landlocked Pennsylvania will > be like.) Actually, Pennsylvania isn't that land-locked...and in this day of modern refrigeration, etc., you should be able to get quite a good assortment of fresh fish there. Just find a store that specializes in seafood...a real fishmonger...and you should be fine if you want to try something with fish. And there are fish that are reasonably priced that a lot of people like. I served tuna with a simple orange sauce at a Mediterranean event a couple of years ago, and it was a howling success. This is the recipe I used...It's actually Spanish, but again, it's simple enough that something similar may have been done in southern France as well: Libro de Cozina/ of Master Ruperto de Nola*, translated by Vincent F. Cuenca Grilled Tuna Take a piece of tuna from the part near the belly and clean it; and baste it with oil, and brush also the grill and set it to roast over a few coals; and baste them from time to time with oil and then prepare its light sauce with water and salt and oil, and bitter orange juice and pepper and all the good herbs torn up or chopped fine: and when they wish to eat place our fish on the plate and pour the sauce over it; and if you wish to make another sauce, like for arugula or another it should be as you wish. 10 # Tuna Olive Oil Salt Bitter orange juice (thin oj with white wine vinegar or I managed to find a bitter orange marinade in the Spanish section of a local grocery store...) Pepper Tarragon, chopped fine Cilantro, chopped fine Brush tuna steaks with olive oil, then grill, basting from time to time with oil. Sauce: Mix oil, water, salt, orange juice, white wine vinegar, pepper, tarragon and cilantro. Serve on the side with tuna steaks. Kiri Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 09:16:03 -0400 From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius.magister at verizon.net> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] A pleasant Italian Fish recipe To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> > Duriel > This is the way Italians love fresh fish-simply poached and > served warm with a little good olive oil and fresh lemon. The > secret is in careful attention to the quality of each element. > Poach the freshest fish, drizzle each piece with olive oil you want > to eat from a spoon. Squeeze fresh lemon over the fish and dust > with salt and pepper. Sounds lovely. A reasonably similar poached fish recipe from Harleian MS 4016: > Perche boiled. Take a perche, and drawe him in e throte, and > make to him sauce of water and salt; And whan hit bigynnet to > boile, skeme hit and caste e perche there-in, and set him; and > take him vppe, and pul him, and serue him fort colde, and cast > vppon him foiles of parcelly. and e sauce is vinegre or vergeous. > (Note: Douce MS. vert sauce.) I'll bet some of that white balsamic vinegar would make a lovely dipping sauce for a firm chunk of sweet white fish... Adamantius Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 16:50:52 -0800 From: "Ian Kusz" <sprucebranch at gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Period Shrimp sauce To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org> How about this from another apocryphal source? It's from the site Gode Cookery (godecookery.com)....and the source author didn't provide any documentation, either....the source author being the guy who wrote the book they got the recipe from.... *This is a fresh fish soup, which is improved by having as many different varieties of fish as possible. You can make it with salt or fresh water fish, but you will need at least 3 or 4 varieties for the best results.* - *1 cup scallions or leeks, sliced* - *1/2 cup olive oil* - *1/2 stalk fennel, sliced* - *3 sprigs of parsley* - *1 bay leaf* - *1 tsp thyme* - *2 cup dry white wine* - *4 cups water* - *4 pounds of fish (3 or 4 different types)* - *1 pound shrimp* - *1 pound mussels or scallops in the shell (well scrubbed)* - *thick slices of home made bread* *Saute onions in oil until soft. Add fennel, herbs, wine and water and bring to a boil. Season with salt and simmer for 45 minutes. Pour stock through a sieve and squeeze out the juice from the vegetables and discard the fibers. Return to the pot and bring to a boil. (For a richer stock, ask the fishseller for the heads and bones from your fish and add them to the water for the initial boiling. Remove when you strain out the vegetables. Or you could add a bottle of clam juice instead of some of the water). Lightly salt the fish and let stand for 10 minutes, then rinse and lower into the boiling liquid. Lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add shrimp and scallops or mussels and simmer an additional 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Toast the bread slices and place them in large soup plates or bowls. Place a variety of fish and some of the broth in each dish. You may also serve the Avgolemono Sauce <http://www.godecookery.com/byznrec/byznrec.htm#Avgo> with this.* <the end> Edited by Mark S. Harris fish-msg Page 66 of 66