dried-meats-msg - 10/19/13 Dried meat and recipes in period. NOTE: See also the files: drying-foods-msg, Calontr-Jerky-art, pickled-meats-msg, corned-beef-msg, Dried-Bef-Qan-art, meat-smoked-msg, Lrds-Salt-Exp-art. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 00:12:36 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" Subject: Re: SC - jerky documentation? And it came to pass on 15 Sep 00,, that Wajdi wrote: > Pure speculation on my part, but has any consideration been given > to the idea that dried meat products may be found in early > Spanish or Arab writings? Seems to me as if those areas would > have had sufficient sun to dry meat. Dunno. I've seen recipes that use air-dried fish: hake and conger eel. There's a 1553 Spanish treatise on the benefits of physical exercise that mentions "tasajos", which the Royal Spanish dictionary says is meat that has been preserved by drying and salting it, or in oil. http://www.uida.es/mendez/portada.html So I searched for "tasajos" at google.com, and found a link to a page about food in Don Quixote. (Okay, so I'm obsessive. Everyone needs a hobby.) http://www.jimena.com/cocina/apartados/quijote.htm It gives a quote from the novel, in which some goatherds are boiling tasajos of goat meat in a cauldron. The explanatory note says that tasajos are: "Carne adobada durante cuatro dÌas y dejada despuÈs a secar. Es como la cecina del cabrero. Se puede hacer con vaca, ternera, venado, jabalÌ..." "Meat marinated for four days and then left to dry. It is the cecina [a type of hung dried beef] of the goatherd. It can be made with beef, veal, venison, wild boar..." I found another online source -- a 16th century commentary on sailing and life at sea -- and it had some scathing things to say about the rations for passengers on a galley-ship. Tasajos of goat were mentioned, along with such delights as rancid bacon. There was also a quote from a 17th century comedy by Tirso de Molina. Two laborers are complaining that their employers don't pay well. One of them says that his rations are badly-seasoned tasajos and coarse bran bread. I get the feeling that tasajos were often used as a food for travellers and the poor. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 12:46:01 -0700 From: david friedman Subject: SC - Period Islamic Dried Meat From _Social Life Under the Abbasids_ by M. M. Ahsan, p. 113 - --- The Abbasids inherited the art of food preservation from the ancient east and the classical civilizations. The drying process was widely used and the least expensive. Even the Arabs of the remote past were fond of dried meat called qadid. ... The common people of the time used this method extensively. Like meat, fish was also dried in the sun and used throughout the year. In one process for food preservation, antiseptic agents, especially salt and vinegar, were used. The meat thus preserved was known as namaksud, a Persian compound word indicative of the Persian origin of the method. To make namaksud, the meat was cut into slices, seasoned with salt, and left in the sun on a plank to dry. When required, the slices were moistened with water and cooked. - --- I should add that Ahsan is not entirely reliable--he repeatedly describes murri as "brine," for example, and makes frequent errors of arithmetic in doing currency conversions. The book has a tone of "paste together all the references you can find to subject X in the literature without really digesting or evaluating them." But I expect that on a simple point like this he is accurate. He cites a variety of sources, of which the most accessible is probably the Encyclopedia of Islam; I haven't yet checked it. - -- David/Cariadoc http://www.daviddfriedman.com/ Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 16:02:13 -0800 From: lilinah at earthlink.net Subject: SC - Moroccan Dried Meat Long ago we discussed dried meat, and the lack of "period" recipes. I have discovered a recipe for Moroccan dried meat. I suspect that some variation of this goes back thousand years or more. However, it doesn't seem to me to be the sort of thing that would have made it into a cookbook for the wealthy or noble, so other than anecdotal references in literature, which i have seen, we'll probably never really know. This recipe is from "Taste of Morocco" by Robert Carrier, Boxtree Ltd., London: 1987/1996. ISBN 0-7522-1039-4 I haven't tried it myself. Khlii Sun-dried preserved meat The author, a Brit, refers to it as "an age old method". We here on this list know that could mean that it goes back to someone's grandmother 40 years ago. He goes on to say: "Khlii is used, much as we use bacon or petit salÈ (lightly salted pork fat), to flavour tagines of fresh or dried vegetables, or a winter couscous or soup." - ----- 2.25 kg / 5 lb beef 50 g / 2 oz coarse salt 450 g / 1 lb lamb (or beef) fat 1.2 litres / 2 pints water 250 ml / 8 fl oz groundnut/peanut oil 150 ml / 1/4 pint olive oil Spice and Garlic Paste 75 g / 3 oz (6 Tb) coriander seeds, ground 50 g / 2 oz garlic, peeled and crushed 2 Tb vinegar 50 ml / 2 fl oz olive oil 50 g / 2 oz coarse salt 1. To prepare spice and garlic paste, combine all the ingredients together in a bowl, mix well, and leave to rest for 24 hours. 2. In the meantime, cut the meat into long thin strips. Rub the strips well with the coarse salt. Cover with a piece of muslin / cheesecloth to protect from insects, and leave to absorb the flavours for 24 hours. 3. Then take each strip of salted meat and cover it with a layer of spice and garlic paste, rubbing it in well with your fingers. Cover with muslin / cheesecloth and leave to absorb flavours for a further 24 hours. 4. On the following day, take each piece of meat and hang it over a washing line or, with needle and thread, take thread through the end of each strip and tie thread into a loop. Insert a broomstick through each loop and hang the pole horizontally in the sun, covering the meat with a strip of muslin / cheesecloth as above. Make sure that each strip is well covered with spice and garlic paste, and pat on a little where needed. Repeat this process over 3 or 4 more days, or until meat is thoroughly dried. Absolutely no moisture must come out when meat is pressed with your finger. Make sure you bring meat indoors at sunset, to keep it away from any possible mist or moisture in the night air. 5. When meat is dried, remove it from the line or pole. Cut it into even sized pieces and simmer it with its aromatics in melted fat, water, and the oils, until all the water has been absorbed. The richly flavoured fat will be left in the pan. Stir often to ensure that meat does not stick to the bottom of pan or scorch. 6. When the meat is tender, remove it from casserole or stock pot and allow to cool completely in a large shallow container. Strain fats through a muslin / cheesecloth -lined sieve into a container. Allow to cool completely. It must still be liquid. 7. Fill sterilized Kilner / Mason jars loosely with meat, then pour over strained fat. Leave jars open for 2 hours, then seal. 8. Reserve the remaining bits or crumbs of meat and spice and garlic paste in a jar to use in savoury beghrir or rghaif - ----- MY NOTE: beghrir and rghaif are fried pancakey-breads - i'm not giving a real accurate description, but it will do for now. I ate both kinds, as well as several others, while i was in Morocco, but i don't think i had any khlii. Both pan cooked (such as beghrir and rghaif) and baked yeasted breads (khobz) are often made with semolina flour so they are faintly golden and have a very different flavor from white or whole wheat flour in the US - which was to my mind really delicious. When given the choice between white and pain complet (which in France is a modified whole wheat) bread loaves, i chose the complet, which was the golden kind. Anyone on the list have experience making bread with semolina flour? I imagine it behaves differently from the usual white... NOTE 2: The author gives no information on how to store khlii or on how long it keeps. Anahita Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:15:52 -0500 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Dried meat in period? Also sprach david friedman: >>While I tend to agree with Brangwayna, have you >>considered dried meat, like jerky? > >>Phlip > >To bring this back to questions of historical cookery ... . > >What information do we have on the use of dried meat in period? >Stockfish was certainly common. Anything closer? The Magyars are thought to have used a form of dried meat, beef or even horsemeat, and it is rumored (let's just say I don't have access to a primary source) that the original gulyas was a sort of pocket soup, more or less a meat stew cooked until the liquid was almost completely dried, and the meat mostly dried, too. It was then finished by drying under the sun and in the wind. Presumably it could be reconstituted for eating, but I suspect it could be chewed on without further moistening or cooking. And I could swear there was an Islamic dried beef recipe referred to on this list... And then, of course, we have the old standbys of dryish hams being eaten without further cooking, and sausages, including the smoke-dried Polonian sausages (English kielbasa) mentioned by Hugh Plat. Adamantius Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:57:22 -0800 To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org From: lilinah at earthlink.net Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Dried meat in period? From: david friedman >What information do we have on the use of dried meat in period? >Stockfish was certainly common. Anything closer? I haven't seen any European references, but, then, i haven't looked. Anahita isn't European. However, i've seen references to dried spiced meat in the Middle Eastern corpus - not eaten as jerky though; it's carried around dried, but it eat it, it's cooked in liquid. There's a recipe or two for making it and another few recipes for using it lurking in "Medieval Arab Cookery". I'll have to look and see what it's called and which of the several translated books it's in... Anahita Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 11:19:53 -0600 (CST) From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Dried meat in period? On Thu, 28 Feb 2002 XvLoverCrimvX at aol.com wrote: > So with the talk of jerky (which is making me hungry for the dried meat) in > the air, who has a good jerky recipe with instructions on how to make jerky. > Mmm, if i'm not busy, I make some myself if I can find a recipe. > > Misha Here's our recipe. Contains only ingredients that can in theory be documented to England in the 13th century. We're obsessive that way. 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1 tbsp salt 2 tsp honey 1 tsp garlic bits 1 tsp dried onion 1 tsp dried mustard 1/2 tsp or thereabouts black pepper Marinate sliced meat overnight or longer, dehydrate. Yum. The other half stores his in his fridge, but this has lasted all through Pennsic while living in a linen bag. I prefer more pepper and mustard, myself. Margaret From: "AnnaMarie" To: Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:12:30 -0600 Subject: [Sca-cooks] Update on Lamb Jerky Well, it's not beef, that's for sure..... lamb jerky takes about 1/3 of time longer than beef and even when it's dried to the consistency I dry my beef it still tastes a bit greasy to me. I trimmed as much fat as I could and when it was finished drying I trimmed some more fat off (dogs were happy with those leavings). I marinated it in red wine vinegar, pepper and a bit of sugar so the flavor is nice, it's just greasier than beef and definitely tastes like lamb. All in all, I think I'll stick to the beef jerky and save the lamb for stews and kabobs. Kristianne Wolf Song Day Spa & Herb Shop Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 15:33:54 +0930 From: drakey at internode.on.net To: "Cooks within the SCA" , "Terry Decker" Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Meat Jerky There's a Yuan Chinese Recipe (it's in A Soup for the Qan) for Drief Beef... I served it as part of a Mongol Feast at Rowany festival this year and it was well received... The Tsaoko Cardamon in it gives it a pronounced smokey note... Drakey. On Mon 05/07/10 2:22 PM , "Terry Decker" t.d.decker at att.net sent: << To the best of my knowledge, dried and smoked meats pre-date the Jews.   Drying meats and cooking begin in the Middle Paleolithic between 30,000 and 3000 years ago. There is some evidence to suggest that the practice is at least 110,000 years old. The Jewish people trace their roots to the   Biblical patriarchs about 4,000 years ago with Judaism becoming established   within the millenia following. I don't think one can blame the Jews for jerky. Bear >> <<< I have come into some controversy about meat jerky. My latest is that it is of Jewish origin??? Suey >>> Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 06:59:57 -0400 From: Johnna Holloway To: Cooks within the SCA Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Meat Jerky In the Encyclopedia of Food & Culture in the entry "Meat, Smoked" In South America, long strips of dried meat are called charqui, which   has come into English as "jerky" as the name for a snack made from   beef or turkey. http://www.enotes.com/food-encyclopedia/meat-smoked Under Canada: Native Peoples The Plains Peoples The Plains Peoples (Blackfoot, Blood, Peigan, Gros Ventre, Cree,   Assiniboine, Sioux, and Sarcee [Tsuu T'ina]) followed buffalo   migrations. snipped Jerky was prepared by sundrying strips of meat,   which were pounded almost into a powder and then mixed with buffalo   fat and berries to make pemmican. Stored in a buffalo skin, it   remained edible for years, and early European settlers and fur traders   depended upon it. http://www.enotes.com/food-encyclopedia/canada-2 Under Preserving and then under Drying Drying occurs naturally with food left in the sun, or on the vine,   like beans, or grapes. Some foods, like apples and tomatoes, are   generally cut into smaller pieces for drying, a practice which allows   the moisture to uniformly evaporate. Herbs are frequently dried whole   and on the stem. Low humidity, heat, and air circulation are important   so that mold does not occur. Meats and fish can be dried to the point   of extreme desiccation, resulting in a product usually called jerky. http://www.enotes.com/food-encyclopedia/preserving I checked the Oxford Reference set: jerky, jerked beef   South American dried meat. See biltong; charqui. How to cite this entry: "jerky, jerked beef"  A Dictionary of Food and Nutrition. Ed. David A.   Bender. OED says jerky  noun ad. American Sp. charqui, charque (Pg. xarque), from native Peruvian   ccharqui: Jerked beef. 1890 in Cent. Dict. 1893 E. COUES Lewis & Clark I. 31 The word as a   verb is now generally spelled jerk, and jerked meat is known as jerky. Charqui which is linked to this entry says: [Quichua (Peruvian) ccharqui dried slice of flesh or hung beef. The   corruption jerkin occurs in Captain J. Smith a 1612, and jerk vb. in   Anson a 1748.]     Beef prepared for keeping by cutting into thin slices and drying   in the wind and sun; ?jerked? beef (the latter being a corruption of   this word). 1760-72 tr. Juan & Ulloa's Voy. II. VIII. ix. 271 [Chili]..supplies   [Peru] with wheat..besides sole leather..Grassa, Charqui, and neat   tongues. 1845 DARWIN Voy. Nat. xii. (1873) 260 The miners are allowed   a little charqui. Jerk as a verb [Corrupted from American Sp. charque-ar in same sense, f. charque,   charqui, ad. Quichua (Peruvian) ccharqui ?dried flesh, unsalted, in   long strips?. The verb in Quichua was ccharquini ?to prepare dried   meat, to jerk?, whence perh. the early cognate JERKIN n.3 The word is   now used in all parts of Spanish America, and was app. found by   English navigators in Spanish use in the W. Indies. (See Skeat, Trans.   Philol. Soc. 1885, 94.)]     trans. To cure (meat, esp. beef) by cutting it into long thin   slices and drying it in the sun. 1707 SLOANE Jamaica I. p. xvi, They [the wild hogs] are shot,..cut   open, the bones taken out, and the flesh gash'd on the inside into the   skin, filled with salt, and exposed to the sun, which is called   Jirking. 1748 Anson's Voy. III. ii. 305 He..was sent here with twenty- two Indians to jerk beef. Johnnae Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:42:13 -0700 From: Carina ZLawson-Williams To: Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Sca-cooks Smoked and Pickled: Sources and Recipes Sun dried Jerky Cut fresh meat into long thin strips, one inch wide. Rub strips with garlic or salt if desired. Dry in sun as quickly as possible by hanging over a line. DO NOT LET THE STRIPS TOUCH. Store in a dry place in clean jars or sacks Cold brined Jerky Cut muscle meat lengthwise of the grsain into strips an inch thick , about one and a half inches wide and as long as you can make them.Put strips in a wooden barrel or non- metallic container and cover with a sweet pickle or corning solution for three days. Hang the meat over a cord line or string to drip for 24hrs and continue to hang it in a room or other dry place. Keep the strips from touching each other and protect from dirt and insect with a light cloth covering if necessary. The jerky will continue to dry as long as it is exposed to air- therefore it should be taken down and put swasy in an air tight container as soon as it is dried to your liking. A light smoke will add to the flavour and help preserve the meat Hot brined jerky Is made similar to cold brined except the meat is cut much smaller- like shoe string potatoes- the hot solution is made by adding salt to boiling water until no more salt can be dissolved. Dip strips into the hot brine until they turn white (about 5 min) - then string them up to dry and handle the same way as cold brined You may wish to marinade the meats before using any of these methods sources- Dene and Inuvialuit elders Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:10:41 -0700 From: David Friedman To: Cooks within the SCA Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Smoked and Pickled: Sources and Recipes? Expensive but sounds good. A little googling finds a claim of literary evidence back to the 15th c. <<< perhaps something like the Italian Bresaola. Recipes can be found on line, basically beef (or horse) marinated in a brine with herbs & wine then air dried. I made some using a modern recipe and it seems like it would keep a long time even without refrigeration. Haven't looked for period recipes though it is one of those things one would suspect has a long history. Simon Sinneghe Briaroak, Summits, An Tir >>> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:20:58 -0400 From: Johnna Holloway To: Cooks within the SCA Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Bresaola was Smoked and Pickled: Sources and Recipes? There's a recipe in Scappi for how to cook them. page 157 in the Scully translation. 45. To make bresaola of lean veal, fried or grilled Page 556 recipe 46 To prepare braised veal Bresaola Anyway Bresaola is mentioned 15 times in the text. You can use Google books to locate the mentions. Johnnae On Aug 30, 2010, at 7:10 PM, David Friedman wrote: <<< Expensive but sounds good. A little googling finds a claim of literary evidence back to the 15th c. >>> perhaps something like the Italian Bresaola. Recipes can be found on line, basically beef (or horse) marinated in a brine with herbs & wine then air dried. I made some using a modern recipe and it seems like it would keep a long time even without refrigeration. Haven't looked for period recipes though it is one of those things one would suspect has a long history. Simon Sinneghe Briaroak, Summits, An Tir Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 22:32:22 -0700 From: lilinah at earthlink.net To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Smoked and Pickled: Sources and Recipes? Adamantius wrote: <<< It would seem highly plausible that the Turkish version of basturma, which is dry-rubbed and air-dried, as I understand it, is probably quite old, and also commercially available. Of course, modern versions generally include paprika in the rub, but the basic concept very likely stems from a much older, Old World friendly, concept...>>> The only time that the Ottoman Sultan's palace purchased beef in the 15th and 16th centuries was for the making of basturma, once a year. Unfortunately, i know of no recipe for it nor any description of how it was made. Clearly in the 15th c. no paprika was involved, and i suspect not in the 16th either. -- Urtatim [that's err-tah-TEEM] the persona formerly known as Anahita Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 17:38:21 -0300 From: Suey To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] medieval jerky Ailleagan wrote: <<< I am working on a project involving medieval beef jerky. . . Does anyone here know of any extant recipes or descriptions for dried beef? >>> This is what I have: *cecina*, OCast /?e?ina/, Eng. jerky. The Leonese cured meat originated in the village of Cierzo, known to be a cold area but Montoro in _Cancionaro _claims that the origin is Jewish as they used it instead of salt pork and ham. It was known as a Jewish item as far south as Cordoba. Actually, jerked meat in southern regions meant salted meat. It is principally from beef and goat. This cured or jerked meat is the color of molasses. It is found especially in Astorga and had become one of the most important gastronomic dishes in the entire province of Le?n by the 10^th C at least. Then beef jerky was sold in the markets of Le?n. Historically, it is peasant food as the majority of households annually slaughtered a cow and two pigs to make homemade cured meats, including jerky, and for fresh meat as well. It is an ancestral food item of austere populations and known previously as castrated meat (of goat, lamb and/or roe deer). The oldest animals of the herd are fattened during three months in the farmyard for this purpose. It is then slaughtered between St. Martin's Day (November 11^th ) and the Immaculate Conception (December 8^th ). The meat is cured by placing the pieces in a trough and covering it with salt for 24 hours in order to absorb an adequate amount. Then the salt is brushed off. The meat is then marinated for 24 hours in a mixture of salt, long pepper, wine, garlic, thyme, oregano and nutmeg. Then it is prepared to hang from a kitchen beam or rafter.Sas believes that stanza 2255b of /Libro de Alexandre /should read: after the jerked meat was hung, the roots for kindling were brought [in January], i.e. /?enisa/(ash) is a transcription error and the word should be /?e?ina/. The meat is cured by buring holm oak branches and cabbage stumps in the kitchen fireplace. With the arrival of spring, the people begin to eat the pieces. Instead of such a long smoking process, jerky may be aired for 14 months in the wind on a mountain peak. Lambjerky is thought to be the most delicious. That of goat is the toughest. Game too was cured in this way. Jerky, also, is cured in a similar fashion since time immemorial in the Highlands of Scotland. To be called a "jerk" in Le?n or Scotland, must be a compliment. 2. an animal designated for cecina during its lifetime. [Castro. _Alimentaci?n_. 1996:249; _Dialecto_. 1947:174; ES: "Cecina de Le?n." Nov 25, 02; ES: Fortun. Mar 8, 02; ES: Sartori. Oct. 2, 02; ES: Wilson. Jun 9, 02; Bercero/Janer. 1983:271:2255b; Montoro/Ciceri. 1991:200-203; S?nchez-Albornoz. 2000:34:39; Sas. 1976:130; and Tapiello. 1994:138]**** In other words if you find a current recipe it will be the same as in the Middle Ages - in rural areas at least. Suey Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 17:59:54 -0400 From: Suey To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Beef Jerky Recipe OT OP Johnna Holloway wrote: <<< Subject: [Sca-cooks] Beef Jerky Recipe OT OP >>> Johnna called "beef jerky" OT and OP - I don't see it as that - "Cecina" - jerky is coming up soon in my blog - Medieval Spanish Chef. It has been traced back to the 10th C in Leon and before that to the Jews who used it instead of salt pork and ham in Spain. I don't know if I can use or adapt the recipe Johnna provided but today I have been overwhelmed with a recipe calling for 32 liters of wine, 86 lbs of something else - Its nice to have recipes one can try out without having to have a mathematician on board! Suey Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:24:20 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: lilinah at earthlink.net To: sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Beef Jerky Recipe OT OP There are several kinds of jerky-like dried meats documented in Arabic language cookbooks. Most are meant to be cooked, however, not eaten as is, the way modern jerky is. In the Moroccan variety, khlii, the meat is dried then packed in fat for storage - the Moroccans seem to have a fondness for aged fats, viz. smen, which is butter, often with herbs added, put into jars and buried or stored in a cool-ish dark place, often for years, before being savored. There was one kind of meat, however, in Ibn Sayyar that was to be eaten dried. The very thin slices of meat were wrapped around sticks (i suppose dowels would do today) and IIRC - i don't have the book here where i am - they were put on a tray in the bottom of a tannur and very slowly heated until dry and crispy. I'll look up the recipe tomorrow and post it. Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM) the persona formerly known as Anahita Edited by Mark S. Harris dried-meats-msg 12 of 13