fruit-apples-msg - 9/8/02
Period apples and apple recipes.
NOTE: See also these files: fruit-msg, fruit-citrus-msg, fruit-melons-msg,
fruit-pears-msg, fruit-quinces-msg, vegetables-msg, desserts-msg.
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From: storm at hlafdig.stonemarche.ORG (Arastorm the Golden)
Date: 23 Oct 91 16:01:04 GMT
We planted a "period apple tree" several years ago in a flush
of agrarian authenticity. It is producing now. In my opinion the
Gilliflour (which can be traced back to 1600, and was brought to
this country by T. Jefferson) is no where near as good as...
We live in apple country. A local farm grows 52 variety of
apples and I have tasted more than half of them. My favorite apples
(depending on use) include Cortlands, Northern Spys, McCoons,
Granny Smiths and Red Delicious. It does not include Gillyflours.
The flavor is mild, too sweet, and the pulp is mushy.
Sometimes paintings show period fruits. Oranges used to be
half white membrane. According to National Geographic, beets were
solely a leaf crop until the last century. Carrots were also small
enough so that we should really not serve anything but "baby carrots"
at events.
Remember, the reason that venison was prized was because the
herds were protected, and beef cattle were worked. Food ain't what it once
was, and for this we should be intensley grateful for the hard work
and dilligence of our ancestors.
By the Way- has anyone got a source for the appropriate pine bark
to grind up and put in one's pease bread? Arastorm
From: David.Calafrancesco at drakkar.mhv.net (David Calafrancesco)
Date: 22 Apr 97 23:30:58 -0500
Title: Appulmoy
Categories: 14th cent., Fruit
Yield: 50 servings
30 c Apples 1 1/2 c Flour, rice
24 c Water 1 1/2 c Honey
4 c Almond milk 3 ts Salt
18 ea Saffron, threads
- --------------------------------POWDER FORT--------------------------------
3/4 ts Pepper 3 ts Cinnamon
3 ts Ginger 3 ts Cloves
"Curye on Inglysch," edited by Constance B. Hieatt and Sharon Butler.
Oxford University Press, 1985. pg.116 #81, from "Forme of Cury."
Appulmoy. Take apples and seep hem in water; drawe hem thurgh a
straynour. Take almaunde mylke and hony and flour of rys, safroun and
powdour fort and salt, seep it stondyng.
Redaction by Oksana Goncharova:
Appulmoy. Take apples and boil them in water; draw them through a
strainer. Take almond milk and honey and flour of rice, saffron and powder
fort and salt, and boil it standing.
Redaction instructions:
Peel and chop apples. Cook the apples in water until tender. Drain the
excess water. Add almond milk ( to make almond milk ; take blanched
almonds and chop them up in a mini chopper or food processor. Take the
chopped almonds and put them in a blender, using liquify,
and mix water in a little at a time. I use a ratio of about 1/8 th cup of
almond to about 1 cup of water.) Add crushed saffron (take some of the
almond milk and crush the threads of saffron in a morter and pestle, with
the milk.) Add rice flour, honey, salt and powder fort. Simmer over low
heat, stirring frequently, until mixture has thickened.
This recipe can be made more spicy by adding more of the powder fort, if
you like, my husband enjoys that, I have weaker tongue tolerance.
This recipe takes about 15 min. to make a 3 cup batch (8) servings.
- -----
Haraldr Bassi, Frosted Hills, East
haraldr at drakkar.mhv.net
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:39:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: LrdRas at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - apples
<< Anyone have any period apple treats that I can make up for the fighters
>to take to "Not Necessarily Pointless War" this weekend? >>
How about Apple Moyle? It is basically a type of rice pudding with apples in
it. The recipe is in "Two Fifteenth Century Cookery Books".
Ras
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 01:37:16 -0400
From: marilyn traber <margali at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: SC - apples
LrdRas at aol.com wrote:
> << or, depending on ingredient proportion and emphasis, applesauce
> thickened with rice flour, and sometimes eggs. >>
>
> This is in fact the version I use. Basically it's a baked custard with
> lots of apple sauce
>
> Ras
Take a large can of pears in syrup, drain and reserve the heavy syrup.
Give the pears a whirl in a blender, adding just enough juice to make it
pearsauce. Use in place of the pumpkin in a pie recipe. Pour a puddle of
whole cream on the surface when it is about half done.
margali
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 16:07:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Philip E Cutone <flip+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - Honey Apples
Steve Geppert <emster at alaska.net> writes:
> Looking for something to do with a bag of "older" apples I had on the
...
> I couldn't seem to find anything similar. Is this something that could
> be period? It would be a great traveling dish as it can be served
Well, The Domestroi has a listing for "Kirzamin apples" (not sure of
the first word) which was simply apples (whole) put in a container with
honey on them until the apples became soft (i think... i'm going from
memory here) There were almost certainly some acetic fermentaion that
went on inside the apples before th osmatic pressure of the honey made
a preserved fruit.... so we have apples, honey, and most likely
vineger... but no cooking... There were several other recipies for
cooking fruit with the addition of honey... i'll try to remember and
look to see if vinegar was used in any of them..
In Service to the People of the Society,
Filip of the Marche
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 18:49:46 EST
From: melc2newton at juno.com (Michael P Newton)
Subject: Re: SC - Honey Apples
On Wed, 22 Oct 1997 10:00:44 -0800 Steve Geppert <emster at alaska.net> writes:
>Looking for something to do with a bag of "older" apples I had on the
>counter, I stumbled on a Honey Apple recipe in my Joy of Cooking. The
>recipe is simply honey, vinegar brought to a boil. The apples are pared
>and thinly sliced and dropped into the mixture and removed when
>transparent. As my medieval cooking library is in its birthing stages,
>I couldn't seem to find anything similar. Is this something that could
>be period? It would be a great traveling dish as it can be served
>chilled or hot. It was also a hit with my children, none left on the
>table after dinner!
>
>Lady Clare
>(settling in for the long Alaskan winter, snow on the ground already!)
I know I'm answering an old message, but I was clearing out my inbox and
this reminded me of a couple of recipes I came across in _The Domostroi_.
Kuzmin apples. Take whole apples, not bruised, nor wormeated. Place them
on racks, one layer per rack. Pile the racks on top of one another, then
pour three measures of honey syrup over all.
Ripe Apples and quinces. Put ripe apples and quinces which are clean and
unbruised in crates inside small buckets, five quinces per apple. arrange
them with your hands. Pour four measures of honey syrup over them. When
you cover the bucket, leave space for a funnel so that air can escape as
the mixture ferments.
I have no idea if this is anywhere close to what Lady Clare was looking
for, but there it is.
Lady Beatrix of Tanet
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 11:15:16 -0800
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Grape juice inquiry
>Now, would somebody give me a comercial source for apples that are a period
>type, grown without pesticides or commercial fertilizer.
There is a firm called AppleSource--I don't know if they are on the web
yet. They sell a wide variety of apples, including, I am fairly sure, some
of the period ones, by mail.
Alternatively you can get trees from quite a lot of nurseries--you will
find an article on that subject in the _Miscellany_. My problem is that I
keep moving, and leaving my trees behind. Hopefully, since things grow fast
here, I will at least get to enjoy the greengage plum I planted when we
moved.
David/Cariadoc
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:04:12 EST
From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com>
Subject: SC - Apples
liontamr at ptd.net writes:
<< Small, round, red and hard (not to mention hardy). Less sweet (see large
amounts of sugar added to them for preservation). As for substitutes, I'd go
for the bags of cooking macs, ida reds or some such, which are smaller, have
better flavor than the enormous ones, and more closely mimic a period sized
apple. >>
Pippins are the fruit grown from an apple tree grown from an apple seed as
opposed to those grown from sports or other grafted stock. They are, indeed,
smaller and less sweet than most currently available commercial so-called
apples.
I would suggest adding to your list of varieties that might be tried
Northern Spyes or, if possible, crab apples specifically grown for juice if you want to come closest to a period-like flavor. Almost all commercial varieties of apple have been bred to make the taste less complex, less acidic, sweeter
and unobjectionable to the majority of people, thereby producing insipid,
flavorless ghosts of good tasting apples. And there are varieties of apples
still grown now that were grown during the middle ages. These would of course
be the best to use and though not generally found for sale commercially are
readily available as saplings from some specialty plant growers.
If buying commercially, most reputable supermarkets will allow you to taste
test your apple before buying it. Look for a balance between acid and sweet,
tangy, pineapple, strawberry, clove taste with a complex variety of flavors
underneath, crispness, refreshing and lingering finish.
If you have a piece of land and web access, a search engine of apple should
get you started in your search for period apple trees. :-)
Ras
Date: 16 Jan 1998 08:35:01 -0800
From: "Marisa Herzog" <marisa_herzog at macmail.ucsc.edu>
Subject: Re: SC - Fruits
<snip>- I read or was told by someone (wish I could remember) that Pippins
referred to a specific type of apple which is no longer available. Anyone
know if this is true? If so, what is the best <snip>
I am not sure about the rest, but Pippins are still sometimes available in the
grocery store, tho they seem to be being pushed out by Fujis and Braeburns
that are bigger.
- -brid
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 20:15:04 -0500
From: Margritte <margritt at mindspring.com>
Subject: SC - A Paste of Pippins
Consider the following two recipes:
To make Paste of Pippins, the Geneva fashion, some with leaves, some like
Plums, with stalks and stones in them.
Take your Pippins, and pare them and cut them in quarters: then boil them
in faire water till they be tender; then straine them and dry the pulp upon
a chafindish of coales: then weigh it, and take as much sugar as it
weigheth, and boile it to Manus Christi, and put them together: then
fashion them upon a Pieplate and put it into an Oven being very sleightly
heat: the next Morning you may turne it, and put them off the plates upon
sheets of Paper upon a hurdle, and so put them in an Oven of like heat, and
there let them remain foure or five dayes, puting every day a Chafindish of
coales into the Oven: and when they be thorow dry you may box them, and
keepe them all the yeare.
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen or The Art of preserving, conserving
and candying, printed for Arthur Johnson, 1608.
To make Paste of Pippins like leaves, and some like Plums, with their
stones, and Stalks in them.
Take Pippins pared and cored, and cut in pieces, and boiled tender, so
strain them, and take as much Sugar as the Pulp doth weigh, and boil it to
a Candy height with as much Rose-water and fair water as will melt it, then
put the pulp into the hot sugar, and let it boil until it be as thick as
Marmalet, then fashion it on a Pyeplate, like Oaken leaves, and some like
half Plums, the next day close the half Plums together; and if you please
you may put the stones and stalks in them, and dry them in an Oven, and if
you will have them look green, make the paste with Pippins are green, and
if you would have them look red, put a little Conserves of Barberries in
the Paste, and if you will keep any of it all the year, you must make it as
thin as Tart stuff, and put it into Gallipots.
A Queen's Delight or The Art of Preserving, Conserving and Candying,
printed for Nathaniel Brook, 1654. Both of these books are available on
microfilm, in the "English Books: 1641-1700" series.
OK, here come the questions :-)
- - Do I use cheesecloth to strain the apples?
- - Should they fall apart (applesauce consistency)?
- - The first recipe calls for drying the pulp before weighing it. How dry
should it be? Surely not completely...
- - I could understand if it was oak leaves and acorns, but _plums_!?? Why
plums?
- - When the half plums are put together, are you using real stalks and
stones from plums, or ones made of marzipan, or what?
- - Just how thin is tart stuff?
- - What were gallipots usually made of?
- - Has anyone seen recipes elsewhere for similar confections (especially
ones mentioning oak leaves)?
Thanks for any help you can give.
- -Margritte
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:48:51 -0800
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Fruits
At 8:35 AM -0800 1/16/98, Marisa Herzog wrote:
>I am not sure about the rest, but Pippins are still sometimes available in the
>grocery store, tho they seem to be being pushed out by Fujis and Braeburns
>that are bigger.
>-brid
There are several varieties known as "pippen": Cox's Orange Pippen is a
famous variety from (I think) the 18th century. Newtown Pippen is a
variety they sell around here, sometimes under its full name and sometimes
just as Pippen. It is a hard medium-sized green apple, a little tart, good
both for pies and for eating out of hand. How close it is to a period
pippen I don't know.
Southmeadow Fruit Gardens, 2363 Tilbury Place, Birmingham, Michigan 48009,
as of several years ago, had an enormous collection of old fruit varieties,
with a catalogue which cost $5 or $10 and was very much worth it as
information about old varieties.
Elizabeth/Betty Cook
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 16:02:24 -0800
From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com>
Subject: Re: SC - A Paste of Pippins
Margritte quoted a couple of recipes for Paste of Pippens:
>To make Paste of Pippins like leaves, and some like Plums, with their
>stones, and Stalks in them.
>Take Pippins pared and cored, and cut in pieces, and boiled tender, so
>strain them, and take as much Sugar as the Pulp doth weigh, and boil it to
>a Candy height with as much Rose-water and fair water as will melt it, then
>put the pulp into the hot sugar, and let it boil until it be as thick as
>Marmalet, ...
I am fairly sure that marmelade (which, I believe, comes from a Portugese
word meaning quince) meant at this time not the citrus jam we now use the
word for but instead meant quince paste. My sister Johanna used to make
quince paste out of a modern recipe in a book by (I think) Elizabeth David;
it came out as a stiff brown paste of a similar consistancy to fudge or to
medieval gingerbread, if you have made that. I think there is a recipe for
marmelade or quince paste in Hugh Platt's _Delights for Ladies_ (160?) that
would give you another recipe to compare, quinces being closely related to
apples; I can hunt up the recipe and type it in if you would like.
Elizabeth of Dendermonde/Betty Cook
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 07:53:22 -0600 (CST)
From: alysk at ix.netcom.com (Elise Fleming)
Subject: SC - Re: A Paste of Pippins
Greetings. One line of Elizabeth's post drew my attention:
>I am fairly sure that marmelade (which, I believe, comes from a
>Portugese word meaning quince) meant at this time not the citrus jam
>we now use the word for but instead meant quince paste.
I went hunting through a few cookery books and found that, indeed, most
of the pre-1600 ones, when titled "marmelat" or some spelling variant,
used only quinces. What was bothering me was that only yesterday I had
run across a number of marmelades made with fruit _other_ than quinces,
though those were in the late 1600s. So, somewhere along the way, the
main ingredient changed. I did find, however, in Thomas Dawson's 1597
_The Second Part of the Good Hus-wives Jewell_, "To make drie Marmelet
of Peches". So, the transformation from quince-only to other fruit was
apparantly already underway. From the recipe, however, this is a
fruit-leathery-paste type of thing that can be "printed" with a mould,
not the gloppy consistency of marmalade that we are used to.
Alys Katharine
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 11:09:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jeff Berry <nexus at panix.com>
Subject: SC - Between two dishes ...
A short while ago I did a small feast here in Whyt Whey
and one of the recipes I used was "To Stew Apples" from
Digbie. Though the recipe was pretty straightforward, the
penultimate line was less so.
"You stew these between two dishes."
I am not quite certain what to make of this. On the one hand,
might it be a bain-Marie or double boiler? On the other, could
it be simply a covered pot?
At any rate, the whole recipe is included below.
TO STEW APPLES
"Pare them and cut them into slices. Stew them with Wine and Water
as the Pears, and season them in like manner with Spice. Towards the
end sweeten them with Sugar, breaking them into Pap by stirring them. When
you are ready to take them off, put in good store of fresh-butter and
incorporate it well with them, by stirring them together. You stew
these between two dishes. The quickest Apples are the best."
Alexandre Lerot d'Avigne
PS. For those who are interested, the entire menu as well as the article
series related to it are on my cooking site at
http://www.panix.com/~nexus/cooking - and yes, that is a more or less
blatant plug:-)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:29:48 -0500
From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com>
Subject: Re: SC - Between two dishes ...
> a short while ago I did a small feast here in Whyt Whey
> and one of the recipes I used was "To Stew Apples" from
> Digbie. Though the recipe was pretty straightforward, the
> penultimate line was less so.
> "You stew these between two dishes."
>
> I am not quite certain what to make of this. On the one hand,
> might it be a bain-Marie or double boiler? On the other, could
> it be simply a covered pot?
That sounds like a reference to a chawfer or chafing dish, which is
essentially a small brazier of charcoal, in which sits a roughly
similarly-sized inner cooking plate, which can be used covered or
uncovered. Cooking between two dishes would most likely be using this
type of setup.
Adamantius
> Alexandre Lerot d'Avigne
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 22:27:59 -0700
From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" <acrouss at gte.net>
Subject: Re: SC - Between two dishes ...
I would interpret this to mean a covered dish, as a bain marie is not
between two dishes, but on top of two dishes :). The results would be very
different, as the former would conserve moisture and the later would not.
good luck!
- --Anne-Marie
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:51:05 -0500
From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
Subject: RE: SC - Apple Butter Update
> Can anyone out there spare me the time to tell me anything about the
> history of Apple Butter?
>
> Micaylah
There is a recipe for Appulmoy in The Forme of Cury, which I have seen
adapted as applesauce. It uses honey as sweetener rather than the sugar
called for in modern recipes.
Since the chief difference between modern applesauce and modern apple butter
is the amount of sugar used, being heavy handed with the honey might get you
apple butter.
I haven't tried either recipe, so I can't tell you what will happen.
Bear
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 98 07:49:38 -0600
From: upsxdls at okway.okstate.edu
Subject: Re[2]: SC - Apple Butter Question
My recipe for any fruit butter - apple, pear, peach, apricot, etc.
Apple (I use Red Delicious or Winesap, they mush easier) Butter,
Peel and core apples. Place in a heavy pan with just enough water to cover
the bottom of the pan. Cover and simmer until fruit softens. Mash with
potato masher. Measure mashed fruit. Add an equal amount of sugar. Cook
over low heat, stirring occasionally. If I want to add spices, I usually
use whole cinnamon sticks and cloves wrapped in a cheesecloth bag. If you
use ground spices, it will turn the mixture dark.
Pear is done the same way, but ginger is the usual spice. Peaches &
apricots do not have to be peeled, but should be run through a food mill to
remove the skins before measuring. I don't add spices to the peach or
apricot butters. They're too wonderful all by themselves!
Leanna McLaren of Sparrowhaven
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 02:17:18 EDT
From: Kallyr at aol.com
Subject: Re: SC - cider apples
Golden Russet is a period cider apple which is still grown and highly
regarded. Another is Ashmead's Kernel (also russeted) which was introduced in
the 1700's as a cider apple. (Russets are brownish gold rough spots on the
skin of apples.)