roasted-milk-msg - 5/21/17

"roasted milk". Period recipes using warm milk with eggs stirred in.

NOTE: See also the files: baked-cheese-msg, clotted-cream-msg, eggs-msg, milk-msg, whey-cheeses-msg, custards-msg, Crem-Bastarde-art, Custard-Tarts-art.

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    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous
                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 15:38:26 -0500
From: "Elise Fleming" <alysk at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted
To: "sca-cooks at ansteorra.org" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was
there and have just posted it on their web site:

> Milke Rostys.
> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle
> þe whyte, & swenge hem, & caste þer-to; colour it with Safroun,
> & boyle it so þat it wexe þikke; þan draw it þorw a straynoure,
> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &
> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.

They didn't have much success with it.  Has anyone on the list tried it?
Seems to me that they made a sort of fresh curd with it for it was hanging
suspended in a cloth from at least Saturday (maybe Friday) until Sunday.
They sliced it and tried to put it on a skewer - which didn't work - and
then propped it in front of a charcoal fire which resulted a little better,
but not much.  I just wondered if any SCAdians had followed the original
and what the results were.

Alys Katharine


Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 22:56:09 +0200
From: " Ana Vald?s " <agora158 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted
To: alysk at ix.netcom.com, "Cooks within the SCA"
	<sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

I ate in Spain some weeks ago something called "fried milk", a very ancient
recipe. They cook milk, add some flour and when the milk have became a kind
of pudding they add some sugar and they fry it.

Ana

On 5/17/07, Elise Fleming <alysk at ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was
> there and have just posted it on their web site:
>
>> Milke Rostys.
>> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle
>> ?e whyte, & swenge hem, & caste ?er-to; colour it with Safroun,
>> & boyle it so ?at it wexe ?ikke; ?an draw it ?orw a straynoure,
>> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &
>> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.


Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 18:18:12 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted
To: alysk at ix.netcom.com, Cooks within the SCA
	<sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

On May 17, 2007, at 4:38 PM, Elise Fleming wrote:

> Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was
> there and have just posted it on their web site:
>
>> Milke Rostys.
>> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle
>> ?e whyte, & swenge hem, & caste ?er-to; colour it with Safroun,
>> & boyle it so ?at it wexe ?ikke; ?an draw it ?orw a straynoure,
>> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &
>> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.
>
> They didn't have much success with it.  Has anyone on the list
> tried it?

Yep... I note that this recipe doesn't specify it, but most others
for lait larde, milk rostys, etc., tell you to bring it to a boil,
which no other true custard recipe really wants you to do. You want
curds that will separate from the whey... I wonder if perhaps they
used homogenized milk? That could be an issue, as well.

> Seems to me that they made a sort of fresh curd with it for it was hanging
> suspended in a cloth from at least Saturday (maybe Friday) until Sunday.

Ah. The recipe says to press it, generally under a weight is what
they're looking for. Probably wrapped in a canvas or linen cloth, or
some other cheesecloth, placed under a board with a stone or some
such on top. Yes, you can hang it up, or even squeeze/wring it out a
bit in the cloth, but for a really solid mass you want to press it
for several hours.

> They sliced it and tried to put it on a skewer - which didn't work - and
> then propped it in front of a charcoal fire which resulted a little
> better, but not much.

Do you think the instruction to schere it on shevres (which I would
interpret as slicing into "shivers", long thin slices like rashers of
bacon) was perhaps misinterpreted as meaning to putting it on
skewers? I mean, since you're roasting it on a griddle, which at its
most liberal might refer to a gridiron, but more likely a flat
bakestone-like surface like a pancake griddle, why would you need the
support of a skewer?

>   I just wondered if any SCAdians had followed the original
> and what the results were.

Basically, imagine pan-fried bean curd, panir, or queso blanco. It
only becomes tough enough to pick up easily, without breakage, after
you get a bit of a crust formed.

Adamantius


Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:36:17 -0400
From: "Mairi Ceilidh" <jjterlouw at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Easter Cheese
To: "'Cooks within the SCA'" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

<<< In preparing one of my family traditional dishes for Easter, I was
wondering if anyone has seen similar dishes in period cook books.  I
don't recall anything in the late period English cookbooks, where I
have typically focused.  I have found something similar in Martha
Washington's cookbook, but I think it might have been one of the later
additions...

I think the spelling is Cirak, Eastern European origins.  It is
simple, a dozen eggs, a quart of milk and a teaspoon of salt, stirred
over a low heat until curds form.  Then it is strained in a cheese
cloth, hung from a hook to drain and/or pressed between weights (one
receipt suggested that the family bible would be the right weight to
do this).  Afterwards it's chilled, sliced and served on Easter
morning.

alex >>>

This is something similar that I have used and like, though I don't know of
its specific use at Easter:

LXXVII. Egost at gi?re. 
Tag en potte s?d Melck/oc xviij. Eg/sla Eggene i en Potte r?t vel/oc giff
saa Melcken der iblant/meng dette vel iblant hin anden met en Kockesleff/s?t
det paa gloendis Kul/oc r?r det vel om/at det icke vedbrender/eller sangler
oc stenckes ilde. Leg der vdi Sucker oc smaa Rusiner/oc gi?r det vel s?t.
Naar det er sammenl?bet/saa tag en sneffr Sie/eller reent Linkl?de/oc sie
det igiennem/at v?dsken gaar slet fra/giff det saa vdi en Form eller
Egostkurff/oc s?t den paa reen Bred/at all v?dsken sies fra/leg den siden op
paa et Fad/oc bestr? den met Sucker. Du kand oc bes?tte den met Rusiner/om
dig saa got siunis.

LXXVII. To make Eggcheese 
Take a pot of sweet milk/and xviii eggs/beat the eggs in a pot well/and put
then the milk thereto/mix this well together with a cook's spoon/put it on
glowing coals/and stir it well/that it doesn't burn/or curdles and tastes
bad. Put therein sugar and small raisins/ and make it well sweet. When it is
cooked together/take the finest sieve/or a clean linen cloth/and sieve it
through/that the liquid is strained/give it then into a dish or eggcheese
basket/and put it on a clean board/that all the liquid is strained away/
then put it onto a dish/and sprinkle it with sugar. You can also stud it
with raisins/if you like it.

It is from a translation of a 1616 Danish cookbook found here:
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/cooking/1616.html

Mairi Ceilidh


Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 12:15:04 -0400
From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Easter Cheese
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

On Apr 6, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:
<<< In preparing one of my family traditional dishes for Easter, I was
wondering if anyone has seen similar dishes in period cook books.  I
don't recall anything in the late period English cookbooks, where I
have typically focused.  I have found something similar in Martha
Washington's cookbook, but I think it might have been one of the later
additions...

I think the spelling is Cirak, Eastern European origins.  It is
simple, a dozen eggs, a quart of milk and a teaspoon of salt, stirred
over a low heat until curds form.  Then it is strained in a cheese
cloth, hung from a hook to drain and/or pressed between weights (one
receipt suggested that the family bible would be the right weight to
do this).  Afterwards it's chilled, sliced and served on Easter
morning. >>>

Well, apart from the modern (and perhaps not so modern) Russian Easter  
cheesecake, pashka, there're a ton of 14th, 15th, and probably 16th  
century French, English, and German recipes for milk curdled with  
beaten, whole eggs, colored in different ways, sometimes including  
diced fat, sometimes not, which are then drained, pressed, chilled,  
sliced, and then fried on a griddle or grilled. A dusting of sugar is  
a common garnish; some versions are presented as a faux bacon subtlety.

The earliest I can find readily to hand is from ~1381 C.E., Ms. Douce  
257 D:

"25. For to make mylk rost. Nym swete mylk & do yt in a panne. Nym  
eyryn wy(th) al (th)e wyte & swyng hem wel & cast (th)ereto & colowre  
yt wy(th) safroun & boyle yt tyl yt wexe (th)ykke, & (th)anne seyz yt  
(th)orw a culdore, & nym (th)at leuy(th) & presse yt vpon a bord; &  
wan yt ys cold lard it, & scher yt on schyuerys, & roste yt on a  
grydern & serue yt for(th)e."

'25. To make milk roasted. Take fresh milk and put it in a pan. Take  
eggs with all the whites and beat them well and add them [to the pan]  
and color it with saffron and boil it till it becomes thick, and then  
strain it in a colander, and take what remains [the solids] & press it  
on a board [under a weight], and when it is cold lard it [insert  
strips of fat with a larding needle], and slice it in strips, and  
roast it on a gridiron and serve it forth.'

It seems to me what you're dealing with is very close to this, only  
without the extra grilling step, and without the larding step that is  
not present in all the recipes.

This dish is frequently found in the pan-European "royal cuisine" of  
the 14th through the 16th centuries and beyond (IOW, one of those  
dishes you find everywhere in all the cookbooks over these centuries),  
known variously by the name of roasted milk, milk made into bacon,  
layt larde (which would translate as milk bacon, more or less).

You may find earlier versions still in Ein Buoch Von Guter Spise and/ 
or one of the Harpestrang cookbook variants.

Adamantius

<the end?
Edited by Mark S. Harris	roasted-milk-msg	5 of 5