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roasted-milk-msg - 5/21/17

 

"roasted milk". Period recipes using warm milk with eggs stirred in.

 

NOTE: See also the files: baked-cheese-msg, clotted-cream-msg, eggs-msg, milk-msg, whey-cheeses-msg, custards-msg, Crem-Bastarde-art, Custard-Tarts-art.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

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Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 15:38:26 -0500

From: "Elise Fleming" <alysk at ix.netcom.com>

Subject: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted

To: "sca-cooks at ansteorra.org" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>

 

Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was

there and have just posted it on their web site:

 

> Milke Rostys.

> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle

> þe whyte, & swenge hem, & caste þer-to; colour it with Safroun,

> & boyle it so þat it wexe þikke; þan draw it þorw a straynoure,

> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &

> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.

 

They didn't have much success with it.  Has anyone on the list tried it?

Seems to me that they made a sort of fresh curd with it for it was hanging

suspended in a cloth from at least Saturday (maybe Friday) until Sunday.

They sliced it and tried to put it on a skewer - which didn't work - and

then propped it in front of a charcoal fire which resulted a little better,

but not much.  I just wondered if any SCAdians had followed the original

and what the results were.

 

Alys Katharine

 

 

Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 22:56:09 +0200

From: " Ana Vald?s " <agora158 at gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted

To: alysk at ix.netcom.com, "Cooks within the SCA"

        <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

 

I ate in Spain some weeks ago something called "fried milk", a very ancient

recipe. They cook milk, add some flour and when the milk have became a kind

of pudding they add some sugar and they fry it.

 

Ana

 

On 5/17/07, Elise Fleming <alysk at ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was

> there and have just posted it on their web site:

>> Milke Rostys.

>> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle

>> ?e whyte, & swenge hem, & caste ?er-to; colour it with Safroun,

>> & boyle it so ?at it wexe ?ikke; ?an draw it ?orw a straynoure,

>> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &

>> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.

 

 

Date: Thu, 17 May 2007 18:18:12 -0400

From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Milk Roasted

To: alysk at ix.netcom.com, Cooks within the SCA

        <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

 

On May 17, 2007, at 4:38 PM, Elise Fleming wrote:

 

> Greetings!  The Hampton Court cooks were trying this recipe when I was

> there and have just posted it on their web site:

>> Milke Rostys.

>> Take swete Mylke, an do it in a panne; take Eyroun with alle

>> ?e whyte, & swenge hem, & caste ?er-to; colour it with Safroun,

>> & boyle it so ?at it wexe ?ikke; ?an draw it ?orw a straynoure,

>> & nym that leuyth, & presse it: & whan it is cold, larde it, &

>> schere on schevres, & roste it on a Gredelle, & serue forth.

> They didn't have much success with it.  Has anyone on the list

> tried it?

 

Yep... I note that this recipe doesn't specify it, but most others

for lait larde, milk rostys, etc., tell you to bring it to a boil,

which no other true custard recipe really wants you to do. You want

curds that will separate from the whey... I wonder if perhaps they

used homogenized milk? That could be an issue, as well.

 

> Seems to me that they made a sort of fresh curd with it for it was hanging

> suspended in a cloth from at least Saturday (maybe Friday) until Sunday.

 

Ah. The recipe says to press it, generally under a weight is what

they're looking for. Probably wrapped in a canvas or linen cloth, or

some other cheesecloth, placed under a board with a stone or some

such on top. Yes, you can hang it up, or even squeeze/wring it out a

bit in the cloth, but for a really solid mass you want to press it

for several hours.

 

> They sliced it and tried to put it on a skewer - which didn't work - and

> then propped it in front of a charcoal fire which resulted a little

> better, but not much.

 

Do you think the instruction to schere it on shevres (which I would

interpret as slicing into "shivers", long thin slices like rashers of

bacon) was perhaps misinterpreted as meaning to putting it on

skewers? I mean, since you're roasting it on a griddle, which at its

most liberal might refer to a gridiron, but more likely a flat

bakestone-like surface like a pancake griddle, why would you need the

support of a skewer?

 

>   I just wondered if any SCAdians had followed the original

> and what the results were.

 

Basically, imagine pan-fried bean curd, panir, or queso blanco. It

only becomes tough enough to pick up easily, without breakage, after

you get a bit of a crust formed.

 

Adamantius

 

 

Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:36:17 -0400

From: "Mairi Ceilidh" <jjterlouw at earthlink.net>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Easter Cheese

To: "'Cooks within the SCA'" <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

 

<<< In preparing one of my family traditional dishes for Easter, I was

wondering if anyone has seen similar dishes in period cook books.  I

don't recall anything in the late period English cookbooks, where I

have typically focused.  I have found something similar in Martha

Washington's cookbook, but I think it might have been one of the later

additions...

 

I think the spelling is Cirak, Eastern European origins.  It is

simple, a dozen eggs, a quart of milk and a teaspoon of salt, stirred

over a low heat until curds form. Then it is strained in a cheese

cloth, hung from a hook to drain and/or pressed between weights (one

receipt suggested that the family bible would be the right weight to

do this).  Afterwards it's chilled, sliced and served on Easter

morning.

 

alex >>>

 

This is something similar that I have used and like, though I don't know of

its specific use at Easter:

 

LXXVII. Egost at gi?re.

Tag en potte s?d Melck/oc xviij. Eg/sla Eggene i en Potte r?t vel/oc giff

saa Melcken der iblant/meng dette vel iblant hin anden met en Kockesleff/s?t

det paa gloendis Kul/oc r?r det vel om/at det icke vedbrender/eller sangler

oc stenckes ilde. Leg der vdi Sucker oc smaa Rusiner/oc gi?r det vel s?t.

Naar det er sammenl?bet/saa tag en sneffr Sie/eller reent Linkl?de/oc sie

det igiennem/at v?dsken gaar slet fra/giff det saa vdi en Form eller

Egostkurff/oc s?t den paa reen Bred/at all v?dsken sies fra/leg den siden op

paa et Fad/oc bestr? den met Sucker. Du kand oc bes?tte den met Rusiner/om

dig saa got siunis.

 

LXXVII. To make Eggcheese

Take a pot of sweet milk/and xviii eggs/beat the eggs in a pot well/and put

then the milk thereto/mix this well together with a cook's spoon/put it on

glowing coals/and stir it well/that it doesn't burn/or curdles and tastes

bad. Put therein sugar and small raisins/ and make it well sweet. When it is

cooked together/take the finest sieve/or a clean linen cloth/and sieve it

through/that the liquid is strained/give it then into a dish or eggcheese

basket/and put it on a clean board/that all the liquid is strained away/

then put it onto a dish/and sprinkle it with sugar. You can also stud it

with raisins/if you like it.

 

It is from a translation of a 1616 Danish cookbook found here:

http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/cooking/1616.html

 

Mairi Ceilidh

 

 

Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 12:15:04 -0400

From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius1 at verizon.net>

Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Easter Cheese

To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at lists.ansteorra.org>

 

On Apr 6, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

<<< In preparing one of my family traditional dishes for Easter, I was

wondering if anyone has seen similar dishes in period cook books.  I

don't recall anything in the late period English cookbooks, where I

have typically focused.  I have found something similar in Martha

Washington's cookbook, but I think it might have been one of the later

additions...

 

I think the spelling is Cirak, Eastern European origins.  It is

simple, a dozen eggs, a quart of milk and a teaspoon of salt, stirred

over a low heat until curds form.  Then it is strained in a cheese

cloth, hung from a hook to drain and/or pressed between weights (one

receipt suggested that the family bible would be the right weight to

do this).  Afterwards it's chilled, sliced and served on Easter

morning. >>>

 

Well, apart from the modern (and perhaps not so modern) Russian Easter  

cheesecake, pashka, there're a ton of 14th, 15th, and probably 16th  

century French, English, and German recipes for milk curdled with  

beaten, whole eggs, colored in different ways, sometimes including  

diced fat, sometimes not, which are then drained, pressed, chilled,  

sliced, and then fried on a griddle or grilled. A dusting of sugar is  

a common garnish; some versions are presented as a faux bacon subtlety.

 

The earliest I can find readily to hand is from ~1381 C.E., Ms. Douce  

257 D:

 

"25. For to make mylk rost. Nym swete mylk & do yt in a panne. Nym  

eyryn wy(th) al (th)e wyte & swyng hem wel & cast (th)ereto & colowre  

yt wy(th) safroun & boyle yt tyl yt wexe (th)ykke, & (th)anne seyz yt  

(th)orw a culdore, & nym (th)at leuy(th) & presse yt vpon a bord; &  

wan yt ys cold lard it, & scher yt on schyuerys, & roste yt on a  

grydern & serue yt for(th)e."

 

'25. To make milk roasted. Take fresh milk and put it in a pan. Take  

eggs with all the whites and beat them well and add them [to the pan]  

and color it with saffron and boil it till it becomes thick, and then  

strain it in a colander, and take what remains [the solids] & press it  

on a board [under a weight], and when it is cold lard it [insert  

strips of fat with a larding needle], and slice it in strips, and  

roast it on a gridiron and serve it forth.'

 

It seems to me what you're dealing with is very close to this, only  

without the extra grilling step, and without the larding step that is  

not present in all the recipes.

 

This dish is frequently found in the pan-European "royal cuisine" of  

the 14th through the 16th centuries and beyond (IOW, one of those  

dishes you find everywhere in all the cookbooks over these centuries),  

known variously by the name of roasted milk, milk made into bacon,  

layt larde (which would translate as milk bacon, more or less).

 

You may find earlier versions still in Ein Buoch Von Guter Spise and/

or one of the Harpestrang cookbook variants.

 

Adamantius

 

<the end?



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
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Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org