fd-Spain-msg - 1/29/08 Food of medieval Spain. References. Cookbooks. NOTE: See also the files: cookbooks-msg, Spain-msg, cl-Spain-msg, cl-Moorish-msg, fd-Africa-msg, Guisados1-art, Guisados2-art, paella-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: Stephen Bloch <sbloch at adl15.adelphi.edu> Date: Sat, 12 Apr 1997 08:47:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: sca-cooks Spanish recipes, custard Tegan Rhos wrote: > I will be the auto-crat (or whatever term you prefer) for an event in > October and my head cook (or whatever) wanted me to ask if anyone had > any period spanish recipes or could guide us to a source for them. It may make a big difference whether you're talking about Spain pre- or post-Reconquista. For the former, there are numerous medieval Arabic cookbooks available in translation (reprinted in David Friedman's _Collection of Medieval and Renaissance Cookbooks_), including one from 13th-century Andalusia. For the latter, I have a couple of Catalan sources, and I believe there are also some surviving Castilian sources. Some examples from our recent largely-Catalan feast are at http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/sca/cooking/st.val.feast.html. mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch at panther.adelphi.edu http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/ From: Aldyth at aol.com Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 23:12:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: sca-cooks spanish feast << I have an excellent Spanish cookbook. The Food and Wines of Spain. By Penelope Casas, Illustrated by Oscar Ochoa Published by Alfred Knopf New York 1982. ISBN 0-394-51348-7. I have had it for a while, but I did purchase one last year for a friend. Found it at Barnes and Noble. This cookbook goes thru everything. Had at least 3 different recipes for flan. Mistress Aldyth Are they traditional recipes of modern Spain or a combination of old and new?>> I would say a combination. However the bibliography includes a cookbook written in 1525 by Ruperto de Nola, chef to King Ferdinand of the Kingdom of Naples, Italy. Much is made of the 700 year Moorish occupation and the influence it had. I found it interesting that there is even a "Medieval" menu suggestion. It starts with Castilian Garlic Soup, Marinated Trout, Roast Castilian Lamb, Eggplant with cheese, and finishes with Tocino de Cielo (flan) and flaming liqueur with apples. I really find very little that is not what I would consider "period". But I have said that I prefer period looking food before..... Mistress Aldyth From: Stephanie Rudin <rudin at master.ceat.okstate.edu> Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:39:32 -0700 Subject: SC - Spanish cuisine Recently I purchased a book which I have not had a lot of time to look at yet. It is "The Original Mediterranean Cuisine: Medieval Recipes for Today" by Barbara Santich (Wakefield Press in South Australia or Chicago Review Press in Chicago). What little I have read so far is very interesting. The recipes are divided by category, not by region, but the Spanish ones are fairly easy to pick out. Mercedes From: nweders at mail.utexas.edu (ND Wederstrandt) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:11:33 -0600 Subject: SC - spanish cooking I wandered over to the university library yesterday at lunch and found a cookbook on medieval Catalonian and Majorican cooking. Wonderful pictures of plateware and serving ware, illuminations from books and such. The book talks about food, some recipes and types of food searched. The only problem, (at least for me) is that it is in French. I can read a little French, and I read some Spanish so I can slowly plow through it but it seems to be a fairly good book. The name is La table medievale des Catalans by Eliane Thibaut-Comelade, Les Presses du Languedoc, 1995, LOC numberis TX 723.5 S7 T47 if you can inter library loan. I haven't had a chance to read much but there is an great illumination of a cinnamon seller with a big bag of cinnamon sticks. Clare Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:17:02 +0000 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: What They Ate (was Re: SC - Hedgehogs) I went back to the "Arte Cisoria" to see what else the 15th century Spanish deemed edible. Here is the list, for those who are curious. A few of the terms remain untranslated. Words in [brackets] are my comments/elaborations. Of the birds: peacocks, pheasants, francolins; and of these there are an abundance in Aragon; cranes, geese, bustards, ducks, moor-cocks, partridges, linnets, doves, wild pigeons, turtledoves, quail, coots, seagulls, throstles, thrushes, widgeons, swallows, roosters, capons, pullets, hens, chickens, bitterns, lavancos [variety of wild duck], anderomias [a gray-and-white variety of duck], herons, sparrows, crested larks, and those which are similar to these in their flavors and constitution. Of the four-footed animals: oxen, cows, wild oxen; these are found in Granada: deer and fallow-deer, fawns, roe-deer, gazelles; these are also found in Granada; hares, rabbits, mountain goats; young hares, boars, suckling pigs, kids, sheep, ewes, he-goats, jerboas; these are found in Mallorca; camels, otters, hedgehogs, badgers, she-goats and those of this nature and those of similar constitution. Of the fish: whales, red-mullet, solrayo [type of ray], needlefish, pollack, conger-eel, moray eel, hake, turbot, percebe [mollusk common on coast of Galicia], mosello, sole, flounder, salmons, pike, gilt-head, eels, gudgeons, ralla [ray?], cuttlefish, octopus, tunny, dolphins, shad, sea-bream, red sea-bream, barbels, trout, ox-eye cackerels, sardines, lamprey, minnows, torquellas [some kind of marine fish], lobsters, prawns, crawfish, sabogas [species of shad], yellow mackerel, loaches, flying fish, mullet, gatos [?] and those which closely resemble them; likewise the shellfish; such as oysters, mussels, tellinas [a kind of mussel], shrimp and the like. Of the reptiles, snails and freshwater tortoises and such. Of the fruits which are cut and peeled and divided: melons, citrons, cucumbers, snake cucumbers, pomegranates, figs, black figs, grapefruits, oranges, lemons, pears, lemons, apple pears, quince pears, peaches, priscos [variety of peach], walnuts, chestnuts, hazelnuts, acorns, pine nuts, pistachios, and those of that class. Of the herbs: cardon artichokes, wild artichokes, lechares [category of plants which exude sap or "milk"], great-mullein, spear-plume thistle, carrots, lettuce, turnips, onions, garlic, scallions, mallows, nettles, borage, asedias [? This word appears above in the fish list as "flounder". Scribal error?], purslane, capers, cabbages, leaf-beets, parsley, annual clary sage, celery, fennel, anise, caraway, mustard, cumin, rocket and those of that quality. Brighid, who will probably not be serving jerboa or badger at her next feast Lady Brighid ni Chiarain of Tethba Barony of Settmour Swamp, East Kingdom mka Robin Carroll-Mann *** harper at idt.net Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:21:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Sarah Elmore <psu08000 at odin.cc.pdx.edu> Subject: RE: SC - Kasutera > Do we have any sort of information on the foods of Spain and > Portugal from that time For a Spanish cookbook look at: Librode guisados,manjares y potajes intitulado Libro de cozina By Ruperto de Nola (1529) Sarah St. Urban Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:23:08 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Vinha d'ahos And it came to pass on 30 Jan 99,, that Jan McEwen wrote: > My lord, being of Portuguese descent, is wondering if vinha d'ahos is > "period". It is a dish of pork pickled in a vinegar-garlic brine. The > pork is not cooked initially. It is heated up before serving. Something similar is period. There are period Spanish recipes for "Adobo" -- various meats cooked in a vinegar sauce. The recipes I have (in the "Libro de Guisados", 1529) are for liver and mutton. No garlic is mentioned as a seasoning -- the recipes call for cinnamon, cloves, pepper, and "spices". I also have a 1423 Spanish carving manual (Arte Cisoria) which specifies that one of the common ways to cook domestic pig is "en adobo". There are also recipes for escabeche -- a pickled dish. I have one for rabbit and another for various fishes. Again, there is no mention of garlic, and the seasonings are such things as saffron, cinnamon, cloves, and "fine spices". Brighid Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:21:35 -0800 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Vinha d'ahos >We'd like to prepare this for the SCA, but we are clueless as to where to >find Iberian/Portuguese period documentation. Can anyone point us to >references? There is a 13th c. Andalusian cookbook, translated from the Arabic by Charles Perry, included in volume II of the collection of source material I sell; eventually it will also be on my web site. There is a 15th c. Portuguese cookbook, published as _Um Tratado da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV_, but no readily available English translation. There are a number of Spanish cookbooks, but I don't think any have been translated yet, although some may be in progress. David/Cariadoc http://www.best.com/~ddfr/ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:30:00 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: SC - Resources on Period Spanish Cooking I've had several queries recently about resources for medieval and renaissance Spanish cooking. Here are some of the books I've been using. Most of them were modern reprints obtained through ILL. Most of them are in languages other than English. This list makes *no* pretense of being complete. AUTHOR: Nola, Ruperto de, pseud.? TITLE: Libro de guisados, edicion y estudio por Dionisio Perez ("Post-Thebussem") PUBLISHED: Madrid [Compania ibero-americana de publicaciones] 1929. DESCRIPTION: xlviii, 247 p., 1 l. illus., facsims. 22 cm. SERIES: Los clasicos olvidados ... pub. bajo la direccion de Pedro Sainz y Rodriguez ... vol. IX NOTE: With facsimile reproductions of title-pages of editions of Barcelona, 1520, and Logrono, 1529. "He preferido dar a conocer la segunda edicion castellana hecha en Logrono en 1529, por Miguel de Eguia, a expensas de Diego Perez Davila": p. [207] Half-title: Como se servia de comer al rey Hernando de Napoles, por su cocinero, Roberto de Nola, espanol. LCCN NUMBER: 32-22348 This is the second edition of the _Libro de Guisados_ (whose first edition was entitled _Libro de Cocina_). It appears to have borrowed heavily from two earlier Catalan cookbooks, the _Livre de Sent Sovi_ and the _Libre de Coch_. This particular reprint has some very helpful endnotes. There are 242 recipes, two thirds of which are for meat-days, the remaining being fast-day recipes, mostly for seafood. AUTHOR: Granado, Diego, fl. 1599. TITLE: Libro del arte de cocina, por Diego Granado (1599) ... con una introduccion por Joaquin del Val. PUBLISHED: Madrid, Sociedad de Bibliofilos Espanoles, 1971. DESCRIPTION:xlvii, 432 p., 1 l. 25 cm. SERIES: Sociedad de Bibliofilos Espanoles. [Publicaciones], Tercera epoca, 8 NOTE: "325 ejemplares. No. 255". LCCN NUMBER: 72-216379 The introduction to this book says that it contains recipes in the Spanish, Italian and German styles. It contains many of the recipes from the _Libro de Guisados_, practically repeated verbatim. It has several hundred recipes, including some for New World creatures, and the Spanish is close to modern and fairly easy to read. No glossary or footnotes in this reprint. AUTHOR: Villena, Enrique de Aragon, marques de, 1384-1434. TITLE: Arte cisoria; PUBLISHED: Barcelona, 1948. LCCN NUMBER: 49-26974 A carving manual, but it contains more than just instructions for cutting up dead animals. There is a long chapter listing foodstuffs eaten in Spain which require carving, and which includes fish, birds, herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Although there are no recipes, per se, the author does comment on various methods of preparing food. For example, he says that one cuts carrots in this way if they are to be fried or pickled, but *this* way if they are to be roasted in the ashes. The Spanish here is noticeably more difficult to read than in the 16th century works I am familiar with. This particular edition does include a glossary, which explains some of the more archaic terms and odd spellings. AUTHOR: Santich, Barbara. TITLE: The original Mediterranean cuisine : medieval recipes for today / Barbara Santich. PUBLISHED: Chicago, Ill. : Chicago Review Press, c1995. DESCRIPTION: ix, 178 p. : ill., map ; 21 cm. ISBN NUMBER:155652272X LCCN NUMBER: 97-162448 Original recipes and redactions, plus several nice chapters on medieval cooking in the Mediterranean region. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:55:59 -0400 From: "Jules A. Hojnowski" <jah11 at cornell.edu> Subject: SC - A Drizzel of Honey revisited! I was reading through my copy of the Spanish Jewish Cookbook and was absolutely amazed! For those who have been cooking medieval feasts for a while, this I think is a must get! For others who are getting started and are midway into medieval cooking, this is a fantastic book for explaining the "pre" recipe info. They have in the first chapter about the foods they used and where they came from who might have used them to influence these people to use that kind of food, AND! if it was upper or middle or lower class type of people who might have eaten this! The recipes info has where and when it was gotten. I absolutely love it! and will be doing a whole remove at our June 12th event this summer! I can't wait to see how they turn out! :-) THL Catalina Alvarez ps the other great thing about the book, is that it has unknowingly helped me really hone in my persona! I had no idea that I would find my name in this book, and that one of the "relatives" of my name was a spice merchant! It is very cool! :-))) Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 10:24:42 -0400 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? >Does anyone know if there are any extant medieval cookbooks from >Portugal, or describing a Portuguese period culinary tradition? Our >shire is planning a Portuguese Explorer event (we're in Cape Town, it >seemed appropriate) and I was wondering what kind of food would fit >with the theme. > >Jehanne Hello! All I have is: "Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV" (A Text on Portuguese Cooking from the Fifteenth Century) Tr. by Jane L. Crowley from a modern Portuguese text by Professor Antonio Gomes Filho. Copyright 1988 by Jane L. Crowley. That's all the bibliographic info I have, but I think this probably was printed by Cariadoc. There are no Portuguese originals in the text. Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu renfrow at skylands.net Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 16:04:28 -0500 From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US> Subject: RE: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? This is the only immediately available reference I can find for Crowley's text. You might check with the site's owner for further information. Bear http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/medieval_info.html > renfrow at skylands.net writes: > << "Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV" > (A Text on Portuguese Cooking from the Fifteenth Century) > Tr. by Jane L. Crowley from a modern Portuguese text by Professor Antonio > Gomes Filho. Copyright 1988 by Jane L. Crowley. > That's all the bibliographic info I have, but I think this probably was > printed by Cariadoc. There are no Portuguese originals in the text. > > HTH, >> > > Would anyone who has this work or access to it please e-mail me privately? I > have all of Cariadoc's works but it is definitely NOT in the editions i > currently have. :-( > > Ras Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 07:38:04 -0500 From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US> Subject: RE: Private-Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? > Look for the Spanish recipes. Spain and Portugal were part of the same > kingdom during several centuries. Their kitchen (most influated by the > arabs) are mingled. But the portuguise were the first nation in using > spices they found in Madagascar and Macao. Their recipes about the dried > fish named "cabelho" are also unique. > > Ana L. Valds Portugal became an independent kingdom in 1139, consolidated in 1294 with the final defeat of the Moors on Portuguese territory. Spain retook Portugal in 1580 and lost it in a revolt in 1640. IIRC, "Um Tratado Da Cozinha Portuguesa Do Seculo XV" was found in an Italian library (the Vatican?) subtitled as a Spanish cookbook by one of the librarians. This may be technically correct, as the publication seems to fall in the period Spain held Portugal. Portugal was the first European nation to make use of spices they imported. The importation is the key point, because it reduced costs, located new spices, and made more spices available to more people. I've been slowly locating and collecting references to show that the importation and use of eastern spices continued after the fall of Rome and through the period prior to the Crusades and trying to determine what spice was known when. Bear Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 16:23:37 +0200 From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de> Subject: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? Hello Jessica/Jehanne, "Foi serodia e escassa a producao de livros impressos portugueses de cozinha" (The production of printed Portuguese cookbooks was late and scarce). This is the first sentence in "Livros portugueses de cozinha", a bibliography on portuguese cookbooks, published Lisbon 1988 [Biblioteca Nacional, Catlogo 29]. The only 15th/16th century text extant seems to be the cookbook in the Codex I.E.33 of the National Library in Naples, a manuscript that seems to have belonged to Infanta D. Maria of Portugal. This text has been edited for several times: - -- Manuppella, G. (ed.): Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria. Cdice portugus I.E.33. da Biblioteca Nacional de Npoles. Prlogo, Leitura, Notas aos textos, Glossrio e Indices de G. Manuppella. Lissabon 1987. - -- Newman, E.: A critical edition of an Early Portuguese cook book. Diss. (Univ. of North Carolina) Chapel Hill 1964. - -- Gomes Filho, Ant.: Um tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV. Lissabon 1963 (Dicionario de la lingue portuguese, textos e vocabularios 2). Manupella says, that the editions of Newman and Gomes Filho are not without faults. There is also an important introduction to the Manupella-edition, printed separately in 1986: - -- Dias Arnaut, S.: A arte de comer em Portugal na Idade Mdia. (Introduao a O Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria de Portugal.) Lissabon 1986. Here are two more titles relating to ancient Portuguese cookery: - -- Leimgruber, V.: Katalanisch codonyat, portugiesisch marmelada. Ihr Schicksal nach den Kochbchern des 15. und 16. Jahrhunderts. In: Estudis Romnics XIII/2 (Barcelona 1963-68) 75-94. - -- Rodrigues, D.: Arte de Cozinha (Lissabon 1732). Leitura, apresentaao, notas e glossrio por M. da Graa Pericao e M.I. Faria. Lissabon 1987. And here are some texts relating to travel and "descobrimento": - -- Machado, J.P./ Campos, V.: Vasco da Gama e a sua viagem de descobrimento. Com a ediao crtica e leitura actualizada do relato annimo da viagem. Lissabon 1969. - -- Pereira, F.M.E. (Hg.): Marco Paulo. O livro de Marco Paulo - O livro de Nicolao Veneto - Carta de Jeronimo de Santo Estevam. Conforme a impressao de Valentim Fernandes, feita em Lisboa em 1502; com tres fac-similes, introduao e indices. Lissabon 1922. - -- Portugal - Brazil. The age of atlantic discoveries. Essays by L. de Albuquerque, C.R. Boxer, F. Leite de Faria, M.J. Guedes, F.M. Rogers, W.E. Washburn. Ed. by M.J. Guedes and G. Lombardi. Lissabon/ Mailand/ New York 1990. - -- Vasco da Gama. Dirio de viagem de Vasco da Gama. Band 1: Einleitung (D. Peres), Faksimile der Handschrift, Transkription (A. Baiao & A. de Magalhaes Basto) und modernisierte Umschrift (A. de M. Basto). Band 2: Studien (G. Coutinho; F. Hmmerich). Porto 1945. - -- Erhard, A./ Ramminger, E.: Die Meerfahrt. Balthasar Springers Reise zur Pfefferkste. Mit einem Faksimile des Buches von 1509. Innsbruck 1998. Balthasar Springer sailed with a portuguese crew from Lisbon to Cochin and Calicut and came by the Cape of good hope twice. E.g., he mentions that they landed at the Algoa Bay and that they bought oxen, cows and sheep from the people there ("da funden wir wassers genuog Ochssen Kuw vnd Schaf/ vnd verkaufften vns die Moren genuog vmb ein wenig alts eysens: vnd wolten sunst anders nicht haben/ wir speissten vnser Schife do mit groser meng fleisch vnd wassers".] Thomas Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 11:01:27 -0500 From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US> Subject: RE: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? > <sigh> Why are the BEST scholarly works never translated in to English? > :-( > > Ras Economics. Translating and publishing scholarly works is normally not very profitable, so only internationally reknowned scholars and works which can sold in the popular market get translated. The BEST works may get translated and published, right beside the WORST works. What does not get published is the competent and thorough research of limited scope. In addition, scholars are expected to be multi-lingual. Most have several languages and often scholarly needs are met by a translation of an original work into a language other than English. BTW, the two pages with Portuguese recipes on that site are: http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/mixedeggs.html http://lemur.cit.cornell.edu/~jules/pumpkin.html Bear Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 01:06:34 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: Oranges and Translations (was Re: SC - Tuna Recipe?) And it came to pass on 11 Jul 99,, that david friedman wrote: > >TOINA EN PARRILLAS -- Tuna on the Grill > >Source: Libro de Guisados (Spanish, 1529) > >Translation: mine > > > >Take from the tuna from the forward part of the belly, well cleaned; and > >anoint it with oil, and also anoint the grill and set it to roast over a > >few coals; and anoint them little by little with oil and afterwards make > >your sauce with water and salt and oil, and orange juice ... > > This raises two questions: > > 1. By 1529, I'm pretty sure the sweet orange had gotten to the Iberian > peninsula. Do the recipes make any distinction between the old sour orange > and the more recent sweet orange? All of the recipes that I have seen appear to use sour oranges only. The references are to oranges (naranjas) and orange juice (jugo de naranja) without any kind of modifying adjective. This applies not only to the 1529 _Libro de Guisados_, but also to the 1599 _Arte Del Cozina_, although I have not read the latter as carefully, since it is a much longer work, and is not my main focus. In many recipes in both sources, orange juice is suggested as an alternative to other souring agents such as verjuice, vinegar, and lemon juice. > 2. When are you planning to publish and/or web your translation of the > Libro de Guisados so that the rest of us can get our hands on it? Well, first I need to actually *finish* the translation. Then I must give it a decent polishing. Some of the recipes I have sent to this list are quick- and-dirty translations that I've done on the spur of the moment -- accurate enough to redact from, but not carefully worded as I would like a final draft to be. > If you don't want to publish it, I will be happy to include it in my collection. I would be greatly honored. > David/Cariadoc > http://www.best.com/~ddfr/ Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 11:01:10 +0200 From: "ana l. valdes" <agora at algonet.se> Subject: SC - portuguis period food Hi, I wanted to answer the people who asked me about monastic food and Portugis middleage food. Here is two recipes from the cookbook written for the princess Maria, who married Alessandro Farnese, the Rennaisance prince. The book is little, only 67 recipes. The critics says it was written between the end of the 15 century and the beginning of the 16 century, since some recipes assume the New World was already discovered and the Portuguis started to eat things they found in Brazil. Funny enough, in this book its impossible to find any recipe for Bacalhau, the fishdish which was as important for Portugal since the 13 century. Maybe the cookbook was used only in the Court and the "upperclass" considered bacalhau-dishes too proletarians. This book was founded 1896, in the National Library in Neapel. Alfatete Take well pure flour and make sure it is white. Make a hole on it and add sugar, two eggyolks and butter. Mix all well. Leave the dough on a bowl. Make doughballs and fry them in butter. Boil a hen and use pepper and spices, use butter and lard with spices and goatmeat and broth. When the hen is cooked, lay over the fried doughballs in a serving tray and powder with sugar. Put the hen over the sugarpowdered doughballs, add the broth and some runny eggyolks. Powder with sugar and cinammon. Goatliverterrine Boil the liver of a goat and grate it well. Grate several eggyolks too. Add clove, cinammon and sugar, plus some flour. Take the stomach of the get and cut it it in small pieces. Lay the mixture with the get liver inside the pieces of stomac and fry it and make them as rolls or buns or cakes. (I am not sure of the translation). Powder the buns with flour and fry it in a pan. Powder with sugar and cinammon. Yours Ana Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 14:59:52 PDT From: "Bonne of Traquair" <oftraquair at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? >From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de> >Subject: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? >Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 16:23:37 +0200 > >Hello Jessica/Jehanne, > >"Foi serodia e escassa a producao de livros impressos portugueses de >cozinha" (The production of printed Portuguese cookbooks was late and >scarce). This is the first sentence in "Livros portugueses de cozinha", >a bibliography on portuguese cookbooks, published Lisbon 1988 >[Biblioteca Nacional, Catlogo 29]. > >The only 15th/16th century text extant seems to be the cookbook in the >Codex I.E.33 of the National Library in Naples, a manuscript that seems >to have belonged to Infanta D. Maria of Portugal. This text has been >edited for several times: > >-- Newman, E.: A critical edition of an Early Portuguese cook book. >Diss. (Univ. of North Carolina) Chapel Hill 1964. At last, I made it down to Davis Library here at UNC and reviewed the copy of this dissertation in the microforms section. The original seems to have disappeared. I haven't had much time to go over it, but here are the basics of what is contained in the dissertation. - -Introduction describing the manuscript in Naples and quotations (in Portuguese and Spanish) of earlier references to it. It is mostly in one hand, with additions and notations in three other hands, one completely illegible. There are large numbers of pages missing, 24 recipes in the remaining pages. - -definition of abbreviations apppearing in the manuscript. - -comparison with the recipes in "Two 15th Century Cookbooks", (Thomas Austin, 1888) and "The Goodman of Paris",(Eileen Edna Power, 1928) (Conclusion, not too similar or repetitive, the Portuguese ate differently than the English and French of the middle ages.) (but then again, there's all those missing pages to consider--Bonne) - -ennumeration of the sorts of dishes ("...partidges are used twice, young cocks twice and doves once.") - -discussion/definition of ingredients. - -discussesion/definition of utensils. - -discussesion/definition of measurements. - -index of the recipes which begins with a translation of the title and list of ingredients, but along the way she begins adding more and more bits of description, nearly giving instructions for the last few. - -discussion of the text from a linguistic standpoint: Description of editorial liscense she has used in her transcribing. - -Transcribed but not translated recipes. - -More linguistic discussion (the dissertation was for a Ph.D. in Romance Languages) - -Glossary - -Bibliography. I printed out everything except the linguistic discussion and transcribed recipes, this made up about half the pages of the dissertation. I'l be reading it over and posting more if it seems useful. I'll probably go back and get the recipes and all anyway, with her description and a good portugues/english dictionary, even I might be able to come up with passable translation of some of the recipes. I can fax these 50 or so pages if anyone wants to see them. I am considering scanning and posting, but am not sure about UNC's views on copyright for this. I'll check. (in the meantime, let's not open THAT discussion here and now!) Bonne de Traquair Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 18:03:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Huette von Ahrens <ahrenshav at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? This dissertation appears to be available from University Microfilms, so you might have to ask them about copyright instead of UNC. This dissertation is also in the UC Berkeley library, UC Santa Barbara library and SUNY Binghamton library. Huette Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 12:15:32 +0200 From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de> Subject: Re: SC - Medieval Portuguese cookbooks? Bonne, If you have access to the newer edition of Manuppella, perhaps it would be good to compare also this edition. "Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria. Cdice Portugue^s I.E. 33. da Biblioteca Nacional de Npoles. Prlogo, Leitura, Notas aos textos, Glosssrio e ndices de Giacinto Manuppella. Lisbon: Imprensa Nacional-Casa da Moeda 1987." It has a diplomatic text and a more normalized version that is more easily legible. In addition, there is a copious index of words, that might be helpful for the more troublesome passages. Manuppella seems not to be content with the achievments of his predecessors (Gomes Filho: "na~o impecavel" something like 'not without faults'; Elizabeth Newman: "nem mais feliz" 'not more successful (than Gomes Filho)'). But that's normal that editors complain about their predecessors: otherwise there would be no reason to do a new edition. Best wishes for your enterprise, Thomas Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:16:22 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast And it came to pass on 13 Sep 99,, that Micaylah wrote: > I am helping do a Feast here in Ealdormere (NO I am not heading it > up!!) with the theme being early Spanish. I have absolutely no > knowledge of this time frame, nor geography. > > What I would like to do is open the floor for discussion with an eye > to educate on this era. Is there suitable documentation that I can > refer to? Is there anyone out there that can wax eloquent on this? If so, > PLEASE feel free to. I know Dame Siglinde has been in touch with Cariadoc > but as yet I have not been able to compare notes with her. His Grace is probably one of the best people to consult. Unfortunately, there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from the very early period you are concentrating on. The Baghdad Cookery- Book and the Al-Andalus cookbook are both 13th century Muslim. The _Libre de sent sovi_ is 14th century Catalan Christian, and there are several later period cookbooks which derive from it. If you can, I'd advise getting hold of a copy of _A Drizzle of Honey_, which attempts to reconstruct the cuisine of 15th century crypto-Jews. It gives a fair amount of background detail on Spanish cuisine, and has a very lengthy bibliography. (Many of the items listed are in Spanish). Good luck with your project. It sounds like an intriguing event. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:38:28 -0500 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast At 11:16 PM -0400 9/13/99, Robin Carroll-Mann wrote: >Unfortunately, >there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from >the very early period you are concentrating on. There is a surviving Muslim (not Spanish) collection part of which is probably that early, but aside from a few recipes it hasn't been translated. But lots of 13th c. Andalusian recipes. David/Cariadoc http://www.best.com/~ddfr/ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:13:46 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Early Spanish Feast Robin Carroll-Mann wrote: > And it came to pass on 13 Sep 99,, that Micaylah wrote: > > I am helping do a Feast here in Ealdormere (NO I am not heading it > > up!!) with the theme being early Spanish. I have absolutely no > > knowledge of this time frame, nor geography. > His Grace is probably one of the best people to consult. Unfortunately, > there are no surviving Spanish cookbooks -- Muslim or Christian -- from > the very early period you are concentrating on. The Baghdad Cookery- > Book and the Al-Andalus cookbook are both 13th century Muslim. The > _Libre de sent sovi_ is 14th century Catalan Christian, and there are > several later period cookbooks which derive from it. If you can, I'd > advise getting hold of a copy of _A Drizzle of Honey_, which attempts to > reconstruct the cuisine of 15th century crypto-Jews. It gives a fair > amount of background detail on Spanish cuisine, and has a very lengthy > bibliography. (Many of the items listed are in Spanish). Good luck with > your project. It sounds like an intriguing event. According to a short article in "Du manuscrit a la table", one of Rudolph Grewe's last projects before his untimely death was to be published as "The Almohade Cookbook", which was to be a translation of an early Hispano-Arabic cookery text of a couple of hundred recipes. What distinguished this work and particularly excited me was that Grewe seemed to feel that this source A) was the first, and according to implication, only, to detail a cuisine demonstrably Spanish by geographical definition rather than simply Arabic food cooked in Spain [i.e. olive oil, not sesame oil or butter, for the most part, etc.] and B) shows traces of a Spanish cuisine from before the Islamic conquest of a good chunk of Spain. Unfortunately, Grewe died around the time of the planned publication; it's unclear whether the piece was ever finished. It does not appear to have been published by the forecasted publisher at the time mentioned by Grewe in his article. As of now, I've been unable to track any of the translation down except for the tiniest glimpse Grewe includes in his piece for "Du manuscrit a la table". <sigh> Adamantius Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 00:30:48 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - gazpacho and Rome And it came to pass on 30 Sep 99,, that LrdRas at aol.com wrote: > nannar at isholf.is writes: > << heche de diferentes hierbas legumbres >> > > 'made from different herbs and legumes.' Does legumes refer more correctly > to favas and garbanzos? Or more generally to things that grow on vines? > > Ras In modern Spanish "legumbres" can mean either legumes or vegetables in general. The phrase above, incidently, is "made from different herbs OR vegetables". The early 18th century dictionary gives the following definition: "Nombre que comprehendre todo genero de frutos o semillas que se crian en vainas: como la Judia, el garbanzo, el haba, y otras semejantes. Algunos le extienden a significar algunas hortalizas. Es del Latino 'Legumen'." My translation: "Name which includes the whole genus of fruits or seeds which grow on vines: like the kidney-bean, the chick pea, the broad bean, and other similar ones. Some extend it to mean some vegetables. It is from the Latin 'Legumen'." So it looks like the term was used primarily to mean legumes -- beans and their kindred -- in period. Granado (1599) uses the term in several recipes. In each of them, it seems to mean legumes. For example: "Para hazer torta de bisaltos secos, y otras legumbres" -- "To make a torte of dried peas and other legumes". The alternate ingredients are chick peas, kidney beans, lentils, and broad beans. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 00:30:48 -0400 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: SC - Fideos (Spanish noodles) Para hazer macarrones, vulgarmente llamados fideos -- To make macaroni, vulgarly called "fideos" Source: Granado, 1599 Translation: Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann) Take two pounds of flour, and one pound of grated white bread passed through the colander, and knead it with fat broth that is boiling, or with water, adding four beaten egg yolks to mix with the dough, and when the dough is made, in such a manner that it is not very hard, nor too soft, but that it has its perfection, and sprinkle both [sides of] the cheese grater with the best of the flour, and put the paste upon the grater, and make the fideos, and not having a grater make them upon a board, drawing the fideos [the length of] three fingers thinly, and put the least flour that you can, so that they remain more tender, and have a care that you do not feed it again, in such a manner that it becomes too soft or liquid, and when they are made let them rest a little while, and then make them cook in fat broth that boils, or in water in a wide vessel, and when they are cooked, fit them on plates with grated cheese, and with fresh buffalo cheese (which in Italy is called probatura) which is not very salty, also grated, and with sugar, and cinnamon, and morsels of fresh cow's butter upon the plates, in turn, the one and the other, and let it baste on the plate over the hot ashes. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:20:22 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: SC - Rosquillas (Recipe) I've been doing some more baking. Below is a period Spanish recipe (and my redaction) for rosquillas. The name means "little rings". Modern rosquillas are generally leavened with baking powder, fried, and glazed. (I understand that in the Spanish-language version of "The Simpsons", Homer's constant cry is, "Oooh.... rosquillas!"). Period rosquillas are sweet egg-leavened rings, which are boiled, then baked. One of my friends commented, "I like them, but they're confusing. They look like bagels and taste like biscotti!" Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_, Spanish, 1599 Translation and redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann) PARA HAZER ROSQUILLAS -- To make rosquillas (little rings) For forty egg yolks, a pound of ground sugar, and as much white wine as will fit in the shell of an egg, and a little anise, and a little cinnamon, and a little cow's butter, and a little orange flower water. Knead everything with fine flour, and cast in what should be necessary to conform to the quantity of eggs. Knead with a light hand, so that you do not break the dough, which should not be very hard, nor very soft, but well pummelled, and being good, make the rosquillas the size that you wish. Have on the fire a kettle of water, and when it begins to boil, cast the rosquillas within, in such a manner that they do not go one on top of another, and cast them in until they ascend. Upon ascending they are cooked. Put them in some kneading troughs, and being cooled, remove them and send them to the oven to cook, which should be quite temperate. Rosquillas 20 egg yolks (medium or large) 1/2 pound sugar (1-1/4 cups) 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 tablespoon white wine 2 tablespoons orange-flower water 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground anise 5 to 5-1/4 cups all purpose flour Preheat the oven to 350 F. Fill a large, wide pot with water, at least 4-5 inches deep, and bring it to a boil. Adjust the heat so the water is at a constant simmer. Beat the egg yolks lightly in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer equipped with a dough hook. Stir in the sugar, butter, wine, orange-flower water, and the spices. Add 3 cups of the flour and mix well. Gradually add flour, kneading continually, until you have a dough of medium firmness. It will be sticky, and it will *not* form a ball on the dough-hook or clean the sides of the bowl. It will more closely resemble a sugar-cookie dough than a bread dough. Add just enough flour to make a dough that can be handled and shaped. Knead well, about 8-10 minutes. The dough will be fairly smooth. Scrape the dough out of the bowl onto a flat surface. Cover with a damp cloth so it does not dry out. Roll a piece of dough into a ball about 1- 1/2 inches in diameter. Flatten the ball slightly, and with your thumb and forefinger, pinch a hole in the center of the disc. Enlarge the hole and shape the dough until you have a doughnut-like ring, about 2-1/2 inches in diameter and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick. When you have shaped several rosquillas, drop them, one at a time, into the simmering water. (You did get the pot of water ready, didn't you?) They will sink like stones to the bottom of the pot. Watch out for scalding-hot splashes, and make sure that the rosquillas do not settle on top of each other. They will begin to expand slightly, and to become whiter and wrinkled. In about 4-5 minutes, the rosquillas will suddenly float to the surface of the water. As each one rises, remove it gently with a slotted spoon or a skimmer, and place on a rack to cook and dry. Continue shaping and simmering rosquillas until all the dough is used up. When the rosquillas are cool to the touch, place them on an ungreased cookie sheet, and bake 20-25 minutes at 350 F until lightly browned. Cool on racks. Makes about 2-1/2 dozen. Notes: My redaction is half of the original recipe, as it makes a quantity that is convenient for a home kitchen. A quarter-recipe also works well. I made two test batches using my KitchenAid mixer. One batch, which I hand-kneaded for 10 minutes, did not turn out well. They took twice as long to rise in the water, and then they drifted up languidly. After baking, they were unpleasantly dense. A long period of hand-kneading would probably solve that problem. I decided to conduct an egg size experiment. After separating out the yolks from 10 medium eggs, I weighed them. The yolks varied in size, but the total came to 165 grams (5-3/4 oz.) in weight. I then started weighing the yolks of large eggs, on the assumption that I would need fewer of them. These also varied in size, but 10 large yolks came to 166 grams. I do not know how the yolks from larger or smaller eggs would compare. The anise and cinnamon flavors blended subtlely and pleasantly. Even my anise-hating husband pronounced the rosquillas acceptable. I could not detect the flavor of the orange-flower water, even when I increased the quantity to 2 tablespoons. I suspect it could be omitted if unavailable, without much noticeable change. The rosquillas are good for dipping in tea or coffee. They would probably keep for at least several days in an air-tight container. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 01:19:22 +0100 From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de> Subject: SC - Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version? Rudolf Grewe in his 'Hispano-Arabic cuisine' mentions a 12th/13th century (forerunner of) olla podrida: "The sinhaji dish. For this, all kinds of meat -- beef, mutton, chicken, partridges, etc. -- along with chick-peas and whatever vegetables are available in the season, are boiled in a very large pot. Sausages and meatballs are considered indispensable ingredients. This dish is a clear example, and probably the first documented one, of the olla podrida, Spain's national dish during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. In our text, this dish bears the name of one of the most famous Berber tribes, the Sinhaja, and was probably named in its honor." (p. 145f.). Looking for the recipe, the situation becomes somewhat complicated. Up to now, the recipe is published only in an edition of the Arabic text and a Spanish translation by Ambrosio Huici Miranda. Grewe had much to critizise about the Huici Miranda edition: "Huici did not realize that some of the folios had been misplaced when the manuscript was bound (...). Thus, many recipes are truncated and improperly connected (...) the order of the recipes in his edition seems completely haphazard and arbitrary. In addition, his edition lacks any notes that would clarify the specialized vocabulary (...) due to his incomprehension of the vocabulary and subject matter, many of Huici's readings or the manuscript are wrong (...)" (p. 141). On the other hand, Grewe died, before he could finish his own edition of the text. Thus, we must use the Huici Miranda edition and translation, but we must use it with care. Another point is that the manuscript of the Almohade cookbook is much younger than the text itself. The manuscript was completed in 1604, but the text seems to be from the early 13th century (around 1200 or somewhat earlier or later). Huici Miranda says that certain clues: prueba que la obra se redact en el primer tercio del siglo XIII (p. 12; certain clues prove that the work was compiled in the first third of the 13th century). Grewe says: The text can be dated to the end of the twelfth or the beginning of thirteenth century by the historical references it contains (p. 142). In the Huici Miranda Spanish translation (1966) of his Arabic edition, there are two sinhayi-recipes, one for noblemen, one for the common people. Here is Huicis Spanish translation of the recipe for noblemen: Receta del Sinhayi regio Se toma una sartn grande y honda y se coloca en ella carne roja de vaca, cortada sin grasa, de su pierna, de su paletilla y de su cadera y se le aade aceite en mucha cantidad, vinagre y un poco de almor macerado, pimienta, azafrn, comino y ajo; se cuece a medias y luego se le aade carne de oveja, la ms roja tambin; se cuece y se le aade a esto gallina limpia y en pedazos, perdiz, pichn o paloma torcaz y pjaros, longanizas y albndigas; se espolvorea con almendras molidas y se regula con sal. Se cubre con mucho aceite, se mete en el horno y se deja en l hasta que se cuece y entonces se saca. Este es el verdadero sinhayi, que usan los notables; en cuanto al sinhayi de la plebe, se expondr en su lugar, si Dios quiere. (p. 19). The Spanish translation of the recipe for common people goes like this: El Sinhayi Se toma una marmita grande y honda, se le pone tres partes de vinagre fresco y una parte de almor macerado y de pimienta, cilantro, comino y azafrn la cantidad necesaria; se pone a un fuego de carbn moderado y se le prepara antes lo que se necesite preparar, como la carne de vacuno cortada en pedazos menudos, y cuando ha hervido una o dos veces, se le pone la misma cantidad de carne de oveja; luego de gallinas cortadas, de perdices cortadas y de pichones de paloma y de trtolas cortadas del mismo modo y lo que se pueda de aves y se le agrega garbanzos [p.150] remojados y pelados, almendras peladas y cortadas y castaas peladas de su corteza, ajo y zumo de cidra; se cubre con mucho aceite y cuando est casi en sazn, se le aade lo que se tenga de verduras cocidas hasta el extremo [184] y se termina su coccin como con nabos, zanahorias, berenjenas, calabazas, tallos de apio sin hojas y cabezas de lechuga sin hojas; se toma lo que se presente de estas verduras, seg?n la estacin y el tiempo actual; se cuecen en una olla aparte con sal, con sus especias y su cebolla hasta que estn a punto; se les quita su agua y luego se aaden a las carnes citadas en dicha sartn y es preciso que tenga albndigas y mirkas hechos con estas mezclas solamente, y lo que no sea eso es superfluo y mezcla no buena. Lo propio de este plato es ser bueno para toda edad y todo temperamento, por lo que re?ne de todas las carnes y clases de verduras y por lo que entra en l de vinagre y de almor macerado, de especias y dems. (183f.). In respect to this second version, it is interesting to see, that there is one big pot, several meat elements, vinegar, spices, and several vegetables (!) to be used, according to the region and the season. The distinction between a recipe for "los notables" (the noblemen) and another one for "la plebe" (the common people) is noteworthy too: the version for the notables is mentioned as the real thing (el verdadero sinhayi). Again: the situation is complicated: there is a manuscript in poor physical condition (Grewe) from 1604, that contains an Arabic text probably from the early 13th century; then, there is (according to Grewe) an insufficient Arabic edition of this text and a Spanish translation that relies on this (insufficient) edition. And: Grewe died prematurely. I wont complicate the situation further by trying to translate the Spanish version into English. Perhaps, Lady Brighid, Phlip, Ana, or XY could ... Cheers, Thomas Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:50:05 -0600 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version? At 1:19 AM +0100 1/24/00, Thomas Gloning wrote: >Looking for the recipe, the situation becomes somewhat complicated. Up >to now, the recipe is published only in an edition of the Arabic text >and a Spanish translation by Ambrosio Huici Miranda. Grewe had much to >critizise about the Huici Miranda edition: So did Charles Perry, whose English translation is included in volume II of my collection. The recipes for sinhaji are: Royal Sanh ji Take a large, deep tajine [clay casserole with a lid] and put some red beef in it, cut up without fat, from the leg, the shoulder, and the hip of the cow. Add a very large quantity of oil, vinegar, a little murri naq', pepper, saffron, cumin, and garlic. Cook it until it's half done, and then add some red sheep's meat and cook. Then add to this cleaned chickens, cut into pieces; partridges, young pigeons or wild doves, and other small birds, mirk s and meatballs. Sprinkle it with split almonds, and salt it to taste. Cover it with a lot of oil, put it in the oven, and leave in until it is done, and take it out. This is simple sanh ji, used by the renowned; as for the common people, their sanh ji will be dealt with in its own proper time, God willing. Sanh ji Take a large deep tinjir [brass or copper boiling kettle, specifically used for making confections such as khabs and f ldhaj], put in three parts sharp vinegar and one part murri naq' and the required amounts of pepper, [p. 51, verso] caraway, cumin and saffron; put on a moderate coal fire and have prepared beforehand what is needed, such as beef cut in small pieces, and when it has boiled one or two times, put in the same amount of ewe meat; then some cut up hens, cut up partridges and squabs of domestic and stock doves cut up in the same way and whatever birds you can get and add some soaked peeled garbanzos, peeled chopped almonds and chestnuts peeled of their skins, garlic and citron leaves; cover with a lot of oil and when it is almost done, add whatever you have of vegetables cooked separately and finish cooking them, such as turnips, carrots, eggplants, gourds, "eyes" of cabbage without their leaves and heads of lettuce without the outer leaves; use whatever vegetables are available, according to the season and the present time. Cook in a separate pot with salt, their spices and onion until done; pour off the water and then add to the aforementioned meats in the said tajine and you need to have meatballs and mirk s made only from these ingredients, because if not they will be an excessive and disapproved mixture. It is the property of this dish to be good for all states and temperaments, for it unites all the meats and the classes of vegetable and because you put in it vinegar and murri naq', spices and so on. David/Cariadoc http://www.best.com/~ddfr/ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 10:11:02 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: SC - Recipe: Olla Podrida (repost) Resending this, since it doesn't seem to have made it to the list. Source: Diego Granado, _Libro del Arte de Cozina_ (Spanish, 1599) Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann) PARA HAZER VNA OLLA PODRIDA -- To make an olla podrida Take two pounds of salted hogs gullet, and four pounds of de-salted shoulder ham, two snouts, two ears, and four feet of a hog, divided and removed the same day, four pounds of wild boar with the fresh intestines, two pounds of good sausages, and everything being clean, cook it in water without salt. And in another vessel of copper, or earthenware, also cook with water and salt: six pounds of mutton, and six pounds of calfs kidneys, and six pounds of fat beef, and two capons or two hens, and four fat domestic pigeons. And of all these things, those which are cooked first should be removed from the broth before they come apart, and be kept in a vessel, and in another vessel of earthenware or of copper, with the aforementioned broth, cook two hindquarter of hare, cut in pieces, three partridges, two pheasants, or two large fresh wild ducks, twenty thrushes, twenty quail, and three francolins. And everything being cooked, mix the said broths and strain them through a hair-sieve, taking care that they should not be too salty. Have ready black and white chickpeas which have been soaked, whole heads of garlic, divided onions, peeled chestnuts, boiled French beans or kidney beans, and cook it all together with the broth, and when the legumes are almost cooked, put in white cabbage and cabbage, and turnips, and stuffed tripes or sausages. And when everything is cooked before the firmness is undone, taste it repeatedly in regard to the salt, and add a little pepper and cinnamon , and then have ready large plates, and put some of this mixure upon the plates without broth. And take all the birds divided in four quarters, and the salted meats cut into slices, and leave the little birds whole, and distribute them on the plate upon the mixture, and upon those put the other mixture with the sliced stuffing, and in this manner make three layers. And take a ladleful of the fattest broth, and put it on top, and cover it with another plate, and leave it half an hour in a hot place, and serve it hot with sweet spices. You can roast some of the said birds after boiling them. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:04:47 -0600 From: david friedman <ddfr at best.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version? At 4:20 PM -0500 1/25/00, alysk at ix.netcom.com wrote: >So... Cariadoc said that his Collection contained Charles Perry's translation >from the Arabic. Mr. Perry worked from the English translations that several >of us (self included) did from Huici Miranda's flawed Spanish. Charles Perry also had the original Arabic, and was working from that, with the assistance of the Arabic to Spanish to English that you and several others did. David Friedman Professor of Law Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:25:55 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Spanish food/health manual And it came to pass on 25 Jan 00,, that david friedman wrote: > This sounds a lot like the _Taciunum Sanitatas_, which is a Latin > version of an Arabic original. We have two modern editions in > translation with illustrations, _A Medieval Health Handbook_ and _The Four > Seasons of the House of Cerrutti_ (that's by memory, so I may not have > them exactly right.) This book gives, for each food or activity, its > nature by the theory of the humors, its benefits, its risks, and how to > neutralize the risks. > > Elizabeth/Betty Cook I have heard of the _Taciunum Sanitatas_, though I haven't read it. Your description of it matches the _Banquete de Nobles Caballeros_ quite well. I would imagine that the two books are very similar. I looked up several foods in Platina and the _Banquete_, and found they agreed on the basic properties -- not surprising, since both are based on the writings of classical authorities like Galen. However, Lobera de Avila discusses at least one item that Platina does not... a foreign beverage recently popularized in Spain -- beer. (He doesn't think much of it.) Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:30:05 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC - Re: Olla podrida -- A 13th century Hispano-Arabic version? And it came to pass on 25 Jan 00,, that david friedman wrote: (In reply to Mistress Alys) > Charles Perry also had the original Arabic, and was working from > that, with the assistance of the Arabic to Spanish to English that > you and several others did. I started on a translation from the Spanish of the first recipe. Then I compared it to the translation in Cariodoc's cookbook collection, and found that mine was in no way superior to what was already there. So I really don't see any point in continuing, as it will not add anything to our understanding of these recipes. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 01:18:23 +0100 From: Thomas Gloning <Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de> Subject: SC - Olla podrida -- the recipe of Domingo Hernndez de Maceras Domingo Hernndez de Maceras was the cook of the Colegio mayor de Oviedo of the famous university of Salamanca in Spain. His cookbook -- only one copy seems to be extant -- was published in 1607. Since he was a cook for 40 years ("... fue cocinero toda su vida, comenz desde nio, y trabaj durante cuarenta aos, en la cocina del famoso colegio universitario", p.64), the cookbook might well describe dishes that go back to the 16th century. Here is his recipe for olla podrida: "Cap. LIIII. Cmo se ha de hacer una olla podrida. Para hacer una olla podrida, se le ha de echar carnero, vaca, tocino, pies de puerco, testuz, longanizas, lenguas, palomas, lavancos, liebre, lenguas de vaca, garbanzos, ajos y nabos si es su tiempo, y la carne que cada uno quisiere: hase de mezclar todo en una olla: y ha de cocer mucho: llevar sus especias: y despus de bien cocida, se harn platos de ella, con mostaza de mosto, o de otra, y por encima los platos chale perejil, porque parece bien, y es muy bueno." (Domingo Hernndez de Maceras, Libro de arte de cocina, 1607, edited in: Mara de los ngeles Prez Samper: La alimentacin en la Espaa del Siglo de Oro. Huesca (La Val de Onsera) 1998, this recipe: p. 217; see also the introduction p. 84-87 about the differences between Diego Granado 1599, Martnez Montio 1611 and Hernndez de Maceras 1607.) Cheers, Thomas Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:48:45 -0500 From: "Robin Carroll-Mann" <harper at idt.net> Subject: Re: SC -Translations of Spanish Foods And it came to pass on 26 Jan 00,, that Tollhase1 at aol.com wrote: > I have a fellow faculty member who has told me she would love to translate > Spanish recipes for me. Give me some original sources or email me copies > of recipes and lets see what she can do. Frederich, Why don't you point her at Granado? Diego Granado, _Libro del arte de cozina_, 1599. Although I've enjoyed dipping into it now and again (and thereby neglecting my work on de Nola), it's got 763 recipes -- more than enough to keep any translator busy. There's a 1971 edition which I got fairly easily through ILL. Madrid, Sociedad de Biblifilos Espaoles, 1971. I don't have an ISBN, but the OCLC # is 5345791, which should help. Lady Brighid ni Chiarain Settmour Swamp, East (NJ) Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 02:56:49 +0100 From: Thomas Gloning <gloning at Mailer.Uni-Marburg.DE> Subject: SC - Translations of Spanish foods Frederich, just in case you are filling in ILL-forms right now. I am currently reading this book, that might be worth checking: - -- Mara de los Angeles Prez Samper: La alimentacin en la Espaa del Siglo de Oro. [With an edition of:] - Domingo Hernndez de Maceras: 'Libro de arte de cocina' (1607). Huesca 1998. It contains an edition of Hernndez de Maceras, one of the three important cookbooks of professional (male) cooks around 1600 (the other two being Diego Granado Maldonado 1599, Lady Brighid mentioned, and F. Martinez Montio 1611; Martinez, like Hernndez was working as a cook since the late 16th century). In the introductory text of M. de los Angeles Prez Samper, she quotes widely from hitherto unpublished Spanish manuscripts from (or for) women of the 16th century. Thus: if you are interested in recipes of Spanish women of the 16th century, the introductory text contains about 15 recipes (p.52ff.). In addition, there are several recipes from manuscripts of "confiteros" and from the first printed book in Spanish about "Confitera" (Baeza 1592). Someone also mentioned the culinary recipes in the Manual de mugeres recently. [Manual de mugeres en el qual se contienen muchas y diversas reeutas muy buenas (c. 1475-1525). Ed. por Alicia Martnez Crespo. Salamanca (Ediciones Universidad de Salamanca) 1995. -- Some culinary recipes, together with medical recipes, beauty recipes, ...] T. Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 17:05:00 -0600 From: Magdalena <magdlena at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese Recipes Steven Cowley wrote: > Does anyone know of any period references containing portuguese > recipes? I have a hankering to do a feast with a portuguese theme. I > really like modern portuguese food but I have been unable to turn up any > portuguese manuscripts. The University of Texas library system has a book that contains a period portuguese menu, names only, no recipes, in portuguese. That's the closest I've come so far. Let me know if you find anything better. _Um Tratado da cozinha portuguesa do seculo XV / Instituto Nacional do Livro._ (Rio de Janeiro) : Instituto Nacional do Livro, Ministerio da Educacao e Cultura, 1963. NOTES: "Edicao preparada pelo Professor Antonio Gomes Filho." "Reproducao, em fac-simile, do manuscrito I-E-33, da Biblioteca Nacional de Napoles." Includes index. SUBJECTS: Cookery, Portuguese--Early works to 1500. Manuscripts, Portuguese--Facsimiles. OTHER AUTHORS: Filho, Antonio Gomes. Rio de Janeiro. Instituto Nacional do Livro. Naples. Biblioteca nazionale. Mss. (I-E-33). OCLC NUMBER: 6161941 - -Magdalena Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 08:52:03 SAST-2 From: "Jessica Tiffin" <jessica at beattie.uct.ac.za> Subject: Re: SC - Portuguese recipes Steffan of the Close asked: > Does anyone know of any period references containing portuguese > recipes? I have a hankering to do a feast with a portuguese theme. I > really like modern portuguese food but I have been unable to turn up any > portuguese manuscripts. We have one manuscript which is a translation into English of the translation into modern Portuguese of a 15th-century Portuguese cookbook. Full details: Um Tratado Da Cozi