Rng-Tlt-Stnds-art - 7/15/18
"Period Attachment Ring Tilt Stand Construction" by THL Reinmar.
NOTE: See also the files: Mkg-Quintain-art, SCA-Horse-Act-art, Int-Equestran-art, Horse-Sense-art, Equ-Grnd-Crew-art, equest-hlmts-msg, Horse-Events-art.
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NOTICE -
This article was added to this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium, with the permission of the author.
These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author or translator.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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Period Attachment Ring Tilt Stand Construction
By THL Reinmar
Introduction
These are quick and easy ways to construct a set of ring tilting stands. They are manufactured using material readily available at hardware and craft stores. It requires a minimum of tools (drill press, spade bits, regular drill bits, 2 3/4" ( or larger) hole saw, hand saw, sliding T square, miter box, clamp, tape measure, and screw driver. 6", 5", 4", 3", and 2" rings can be found at any hobby store. 1" rings can be found at any hardware store.
Each TYPE 1 stand will consist of one upright and two arms. It has pin and socket style connections. Each TYPE 2 stand will have one cross arm and require a drill press with an 18" throat to make. It has fewer pieces to lose but does not pack as well. The Type 2 stand has a notch and saddle joint.
The differences between the two ring stands are different approaches to the same problem, much like two different styles of helms or 7th century viking garb vs. 7th century arab garb.
Material:
Four (3 if you are also making head stands as the scrap from those will replace the fourth 2" X 2" X 8' boards (they are actually 11/2'" X 11/2'" X 8') and will be referred to by their nominal dimensions throughout this document.
Two (TYPE 1) or Three (TYPE 2) 3/4" X 3' oak dowels
One 2" X 4" X 8'
One 5/8" X 3' oak dowel
Six wooden drawer pulls (1" or larger)
wood glue
2" or 2 1/2'" Wood Screws (optional)
Package of 1" wire brads
stain or paint
urethane
bees wax (Type 2)
twelve 1/8" X 11/2'" cotter pins
craft wire (optional)
two each 6", 5", 4", 3", 2", and 1" rings (total of 12 rings).
brightly colored ribbon (not green, brown, tan, or dull red)
SPINNERS
1. Cut the 5/8" oak dowel into 3" sections, minus the saw curf, to create 12 "pegs".
2. Bore a 5/32" hole 1" deep into the round face of each peg. If you bore it poorly, simply flip the peg over and bore the other end. Your mistake will be hidden in the finished product.
3. Put the hole saw into the drill press and adjust the depth so that the hole saw stops about 3/16" shy of passing all the way through the 2"X4". The pilot bit MUST pass all the way through the board but the hole saw MUST NOT.
4. Bore 12 holes in the 2"X4" as deep as you can with the drill press set this way.
5. Flip the board over, and adjust the drill press depth so that it completes the cuts made it Step 4.
6. Using the pilot holes from STEP 4, finish one hole. Cut power to the drill press and remove the slug from the hole saw. Repeat for the remaining eleven holes.
7. Take the 12 slugs from STEP 6 and bore a 5/8" diameter hole 1/2'" deep into the rounded edge of each slug using a spade bit. When a stem is inserted into the hole drilled in STEP 6, it should look like a doughnut on a stick. See pictures of completed Spinners at the end of the instructions if you have questions about where the placement of this hole.
8. Glue the undrilled end of the pegs from STEP 2 into the 12 holes bored in the slugs in STEP 7. Pin the peg in place with the wire brads. (Hint, you may want to bore a pilot hole for the brad ad the oak dowel can be hard to nail into.
9. Ream out the pilot hole from STEP 4 using a 7/8" spade bit on each spinner. This 7/8" hole is the hole in the "doughnut"
10. Bevel the edges of the doughnut and the pegs to complete the "spinners."
TYPE 1 Ring Stand Construction
1. Cut three 2" X 2" X 8' boards to 7'.
2. Make certain the stands will fit into the portable holes you will be using. Shave down the butt end of the upright if necessary to fit into your portable holes.
3. Mark the center of the three 1' scrap pieces generated in STEP 2 along the 1' side and, using the sliding T square, mark a 45 degree angle such that, when cut, you will have two pieces of equal size. These will form the "ears" on the top of each stand.
4. Cut three 6" pieces from the remaining 2" X 2" X 8'
5. Mark and cut these 6" pieces in half just like you did the 1' pieces. You should have 6 equal sized "stop blocks"
6. Take one of the ears and mark the third longest face 1-1/8" from the square end using the T square. Then mark the center of the line you just marked. (See diagram at back).
7. Set up a jig on your drill press to bore a 3/4" hole in the ear piece just marked in STEP 6.
8. Bore the remaining 5 Ears and all 6 Stop blocks.
9. Clamp and glue and two Ears to the top of your 7' uprights with the square 2"X2" ends flush with the top of the upright.
10. Screw together the ears in place before the glue is dry (optional)
11. Cut the three 3/4" oak dowels in half.
12. Insert the dowel into the hole of the stop block until it protrudes from the longest side. Insert the dowel into the hole of the ear and push it all the way in. See which "ear" has the shallowest hole and use this as the depth guide for all the arms. Pin the stop block to the dowel with a brad.
13.
Repeat STEP 12 for the remaining 5 arms.
14. Sand the dowels so that they fit easily into the holes in the ears.
15. Apply the beeswax to the dowel where it slides into the "ears". Sand the remainder of the entire assembly and apply the desired finish. Slide two spinners onto an arm and screw a drawer pull onto the end of the dowel to prevent the spinners from sliding off.
TYPE 2 Ring Stand Construction
1. Cut three 2" X 2" X 8' boards to 7'.
2. Make certain the stands will fit into the portable holes you will be using. Shave down the butt end of the upright if necessary to fit into your portable holes.
3. Mark the center of the three 1' scrap pieces generated in STEP 2 along the 1' side and, using the sliding T square, mark a 45 degree angle such that, when cut, you will have two pieces of equal size. These will form the "ears."
4. Cut three 6" pieces from the remaining 2" X 2" X 8'. (Note: if you are also making head stands, the 3' scrap piece from one of the heads can be used for these 6" pieces.
5. Mark and cut these 6" pieces in half just like you did the 1' pieces. You should have 6 equal sized "stop blocks".
6. Clamp and glue two Ears to the top of your 7' uprights with the square 2" X 2" ends 1 1/2'" above the top of the upright (it should look like a fork missing its two middle tines). This is the saddle portion of your joint.
7. Screw together before the glue is dry (optional)
8. Cut the two 3/4" oak dowels into 12" pieces (minus the saw kerf)
9. Cut three 12" pieces from the remaining 2" X 2" X 8' from STEP 4. These will form the base of each cross arm.
10. Mark the center of both 2"X2" faces of these three pieces.
11. Drill a 3/4" hole 11/2'" deep into the 2" X 2" face of the 1' 2" X 2"s.
12. Mark the center of the 12" piece on a 12" face. Mark 3/4" from either side the first mark.
13. Transfer these last two marks around the remaining 3 sides.
14. Remove 1/64" to 1/32" of material from two opposite faces between the marks in STEP 13. Your 1' piece will look like a squared off hourglass in profile from one face and when rolled 90 degrees will look like a 12" 2' X 2". This thinning is to allow for shrinking & swelling of the material in the notch portion of the joint.
15. Test fit the cross arm into each upright. You want each arm to be usable with each upright.
16. Repeat Steps 10 through 15 on the remaining two cross arms.
17. Next attach the two stop blocks to one un-thinned side of each cross arm with the longest face against the cross arm. The square end should be flush with the thinned portion of the arm. This will create the "notch" which will slide into the "saddle" created in STEP 6. Again, you want a little slop in the joint for expansion in wet or humid conditions.
18. Insert the 12" long 3/4" oak dowels into the holes in the ends of the arms.
19. Screw them in place on the underside of the cross arm (Hint, bore a pilot hole for the screws)
20. Apply the desired finish to the stand.
21. Slide two spinners onto each arm and screw a drawer pull onto the end of the dowel to prevent the spinners from sliding off.
Rings
1. Nip one leg of a cotter pin so that it has nearly two legs of equal length.
2. Open up the cotter pin and slide it over a ring so that the ring rests in the loop "head."
3. Pinch the throat (just below the head) of the cotter pin closed.
4. Wrap the cotter pin throat with craft wire to prevent it from opening too far.
5. Spread the legs of the cotter pin apart and test it on a spinner. If it pulls out too easily, bend the legs further apart.
6. Tie
brightly colored ribbons to each ring. Choose colors, which will stand out
when a ring falls into the grass. Experience shows two or more colors works
best.
Ring (without craft wire wrapped around throat) Spinner side view
Ring with craft wire around throat Spinner view of stem end
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Copyright 2017 by Brent Lecher. <brent_lecher at yahoo.com>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited. Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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