Period-like shade pavilions for use in camp or at the tournament field.
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Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 08:26:31 PDT
From: elizabeth rose <rosemorta at hotmail.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Shade Pavillions(rather long)
>Something I saw in Colonial Williamsburg may help you: take 4 long poles,
>lash two together at a time about 1 to 1 & 1/2 foot away from one end.
>Those are your ends. Set them upright, like upside-down vee's (have
>people holding them, of course). Take a fifth pole and set it in the
>short vee's, at the top (okay, now that I'm looking at this, either have
>a tall guy do it or do it earlier). When the fifth pole is lashed, you
>have a framework that you can attach any amount of cloth to.
Here's my version - adapted from a Viking wedge I designed with a friend -
Same idea, more pre construction, but I can set it up alone (and I'm 5'2"):
6 1x4's (I used 8 footers because they fit in my car)
2 closet poles(8' by 1" diameter)
2 good sized bolts with 4 washers and 2 wing nuts (I use what I think is a
carriage bolt - square just under the head and round from there down)
Using a 1" spade drill bit, drill holes 6" from one end of all the 1x4's
centered from side to side. Drill holes in the other end of 4 of the boards
to accomadate the bolts.
Lay the boards out, three to a side, in this order - no hole with 1" hole,
1" hole with small hole, small hole with 1" hole. Match up holes on each
side and put the closet poles in spanning each side and the bolts in, using
washers as spacers. Tie a lashing of some sort to the inner closet pole on
each side where it extends past the boards. Now, walk the "no hole" legs up
until the closet pole is fairly high in the air (at least head height). Take
the lashing, wrap it around the extension of the pole on the ground and pull
back until it comes up to the same height and tie off on center board (I
installed an eye hook for this purpose). It should look like a Z on its
side, with closet poles spanning the structure.Throw the fabric over. We use
this as a sun shade/rain fly and also to disguise our mundane tents.
Hint: I tie the back end of the fabric to the "no hole" ends in case of high
wind and my fabric comes almost to the ground on the sides.
mka Liz Rose
From: "Edrei the Quiet" <edrei at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pavilion materials
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 03:03:17 GMT
"Don Gill" <don at fivegills.com> wrote
> Hey all. I just came back from my first event and was in awe of all the
> great looking period encampments. As jelousy has kicked in and a careful
> on my ever-thin purse, I am trying to pull together an inexpensive
> While I would love a period pavilion, I was thinking about starting off
> something simple: a 10 X 10 sunshades they sell at Walmart and just sewing
> together some sides. Has anyone ever tried this? Any suggestions or
I've done this. You need to make sure the poles (especially the cross
pieces) can support the weight of the fabric (I used a light-canvas weight
fabric and it was almost too heavy). I originally hung my walls with shower
curtain rings, but found $1 Store "bungeeballs" work a little better.
Make sure you stake your pavilion down as well using heavy tent stakes...
the lightweight aluminum ones just don't cut it.
Ld Edrei the Quiet (mka David Backlin)
MSKD XII Sept 3-6 2004
Shire of Smythkepe
From: Heather Murray <margaretnorthwode at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pavilion materials
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 16:32:37 GMT
Don Gill wrote:
> Might you remember the weight of the fabric? I have found 60" canvas online
> for a fairly good price in weights of 8#, 10# and 12 #.
> Also, how did you connect the side walls - hooks or something sturdier?
> Might you have pictures of how your sunshade pavilion turned out?
> Don Gill
A lady here in my Shire has re-covered an E-Z-Up tent frame a couple of
years ago for her sons' usage at events. She used a lightweight canvas
for the sides, I know, and I believe that she purchased it at a local
chain fabric store. It still seems to work nicely, and when she attends
events by herself, she'll take that tent (her and her husband's tent is
a *large* Viking a-frame).
Though I wouldn't recommend it for winter, you could always purchase
sheets to use for sidewalls. Later the same sheets could be used for
camp sheet walls. You'd get an idea for how much weight the frame will
For mounting them, go to a local store that carries curtain hardware,
and purchase hangers that are shaped like a keyhole. Those should work
nicely for your purposes, and still be able to dismount easily. IF you
don't think those'll work, have a look around that section for hangers
that might. Alternately, metal closed shower curtain rings should work
for at least a while. I recommend binding the holes for hanging and
attachment, or you'll get rips in a strong wind. Less so for canvas, of
course, but, still.
Be careful about setting these up in high/gusty winds. We here have had
one break at a joint when the wind blew it over before it was fully
unfolded and staked down. The part is replaceable via an order from the
maker, but that was totally unhelpful that weekend.