MaMSP-art - 9/23/98
"Making a Medieval Shade Pavilion" by H.L. Marke von Mainz.
NOTE: See also the files: shade-pavilns-msg, tent-making-msg, p-tent-const-art, tent-fabrics-msg, tent-sources-msg, pavilions-msg, tent-transprt-msg.
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NOTICE -
This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set
of files, called StefanŐs Florilegium.
These files are available on the Internet at:
Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author.
While the author will likely give permission for this work to be
reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first
or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris
AKA: Stefan li Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
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How to make a Medieval Pavilion
by H.L. Marke von Mainz
Steps - Planning
1) Determine size and shape. The width of the fabric should be
taken into account when determining the size. Plan for one or two
center poles, the slope of the top, and how many other poles with
placement. Poles are commonly placed a maximum of 6 feet apart at the
perimeter. If you plan to add walls later on, you'll want to think
about placing the poles no farther apart than 4 feet. The style of
pavilion will also dictate where the poles are.
2) What color(s) do you want? Not all fabrics come in the colors
you might want, and canvas is fairly restricted in colors. Remember to
visualize the colors together or you might end up with something that
looks like a giant fruit.
3) What dag shape did you want? square, rectangular, keyhole,
triangular, heater. Make a template of the dag style you want. Dags on
average are commonly 12 to 16 inches long and 12 inches wide.
4) Make a drawing of size and shape, two views at least. Then make
a setup drawing of pavilion, showing how it would look on the field.
5) Make a cutting plan. This helps if you have a non-rectangular
shape.
6) Optional items. Painting on dags and/or Top. Backdrop. Floor.
Barrier. Break-down or single piece poles. And waterproofing.
Backdrop, Barrier, and Floor Covering.
Items needed:
Yardstick, Tape Measure, and a long straight edge. Chalk and Pencil.
Pavilion drawings and Templates.
Dag Template.
Scissors, sharp.
Sew Machine. An old steel one works best with Duck and Canvas. Fabric
(with 2 yds extra).
Lots of thread, about 900 yds worth for a 10'x15' Oval. Use a
cotton covered polyester thread for strength.
Poles and steel rod, Grommets and leather, Parachute Line, Stakes,
and Line Tighteners.
Optional items: paint, waterproofing, designs to paint.
Order of Construction
1) PRE-SHRINKING
The fabric needs to be pre-shrunk, otherwise it will shrink funny
after the first time it gets wet. For the larger pavilions you will
need to run a test piece through the washer and dryer, measuring
before and after to figure out the percent shrinkage. Allow for the
shrinkage if you cut out the pieces before washing. Sometimes you will
need to iron the fabric after drying.
2) CUTTING
Cut the pieces out of fabric, remember to allow 1 inch seam
allowance for each fabric piece. Using cutting layout if you have it.
When cutting out dags, fold fabric in quarters so you can get more
dags with less cutting. If dags are symmetrical, then you can waste
less material. Dags only need 1/2 inch seam allowance. Here you would
also cut out the pennants for poles. IMPORTANT: Be sure to track which
piece goes where before you start sewing. Any painting of dags and
pennants are done now.
2) SEWING
Pin the pavilion pieces together for sewing. Start with the seam in the
center of the pavilion and work outward. Make sure all the
seams are getting sewn on the same side out. Use a French or Jean
seam. The dags and pennants are sewn with the painted surface inside
to be turned right-side out. After the pavilion top is sewn all
together, start sewing the dags on. The dags should sewn on so the
side it face out is against the top side of the pavilion. Use the
same French or Jean seam on connecting dags to pavilion top, then sew
again around the seam.
3) POLES
Either machine or hand sew leather squares on the pavilion where
the grommets are going. The leather pieces need to go on the bottom
side of the pavilion. Then put the grommets in. Now the Top is done.
Make your poles to the height you wanted. Remember to make the center
pole(s) to the height you planned for. Drill the holes in the poles
for the pennant rods. Cut the rods long enough for the hole depth plus
pennant height and 3 inches. Paint the poles if you wanted. If you
paint, use an oil based paint for durability and make sure you also
paint the ends. Make the line tighteners out of dowel rod or old broom
handles.
4) FINISHING
Now your pavilion can be setup and used, or you can waterproof it
now. A note on waterproofing: Only immersion and brushing methods
truly get the waterproofing into the fabric.
Suggested Fabrics:
Roof - Canvas, 10oz. Duck, Trigger, Sportsweight, and Silk.
Backdrop/Barrier -Canvas, Duck, Sportsweight, Broadcloth, Sheeting,
and Silk
Dags - Broadcloth, Sheeting, and Silk (for flapping in the breeze.)
By H.L. Marke von Mainz, Moon Shadow Pavilions
Mooneschadowe, Ansteorra
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Copyright 1998 H.L. Marke von Mainz, Moon Shadow Pavilions. Permission is
granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited and receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in
the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also
appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being
reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
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