wood-utensils-msg - 3/29/08
Making and finishing wooden utensils, mugs, bowls, plates.
NOTE: See also the files: wood-msg, woodworking-msg, utensils-msg, horn-msg, wood-finishes-msg, p-tableware-msg, tools-msg, tools-bib, polishing-msg, trenchers-msg.
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NOTICE -
This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.
This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.
The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.
Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous
Stefan at florilegium.org
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:49:17 -0400
From: rmhowe <magnusm at ncsu.edu>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Wood Finshes for Food Items.
Norma Winter wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what can be used to coat the inside of a handmade
> wooden drinking mug?
>
> Sine
According to an article by Bob Flexner, a very well published writer
and author of a book specifically on finishing any modern finish will
do. The article is in the current issue of Popular Woodworking, Vol. 19,
Number 5, November 1999, pages 16-20. www.popwood.com (513) 531-2222
if you want a copy. It's entitled The Folly of Food-Safe Finishes.
Essentially it explains the opposite by explaining that modern finishes
comply and that there should be no special reason for distinctions
or unnecessary worries.
Lead is no longer used in finishes according to his research and there
are no cases of anyone becoming poisoned with common modern
non-pigmented finishes - ONCE THEY HAVE FULLY CURED. According to
him the metallic salts used to dry the finishes are relatively safe
since they are encapsulated in the cured resins and are inert. Rule
of thumb for drying - 30 days.
Mr. Flexner writes for a number of woodworking publications and is one
of the two most prolific authors on the subject for the popular market,
at least that is my observation and I've been buying his book and the
many magazines he's published in for quite some long time. He did claim
to check the government's research on the matter. According to him
current finishes meet the regulations for foodsafeness contained in
the Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Part 175. That is not to
say it's entirely safe, but that current finishes meet all current
requirements - AS FAR AS WE KNOW NOW they appear safe.
It's the best article I've seen yet on the subject.
My personal observation would be not to use shellac in anything
that will contain alcohol as alcohol dissolves shellac.
Personally, I don't hanker after drinking shellac straight or
on the rocks.
Then again wax melts with heat. But basic bee's wax is non toxic.
(Some exotic woods - mostly non U.S. species to my memory - have
a problem drying with some finishes, that is the wood itself contains
certain materials that interferes with certain finishes, and some must
be treated in exceptional manners. A few woods are also naturally
toxic. I'm only mentioning this because there are exotic variables.
I was a fabricator in wood and we normally used the more common
hardwoods, so I can't get really specific here without a whole lot
of probably unnecessary effort. If you're that interested I suggest
you do your own research.)
There are such food specific finishes as Behlen's Salad Bowl finish
that are available through woodworking supply companies like Rockler
or Constantine if you wish to go that route.
Myself, I think I'd try a good quality clear polyurethane or wax
but I certainly have read enough of Mr. Flexner's work to respect
his opinion - and he is very experienced.
I suggest you read the article yourself.
Magnus, former cabinetmaker and furniture shop foreman.
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:03:33 -0400
From: Irene leNoir <irene at ici.net>
To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: Re: Wood Finshes for Food Items.
> Can anyone tell me what can be used to coat the inside of a handmade
> wooden drinking mug?
I haven't ever finished any wood eating implements that I made myself. I
have however occasionally had need to re-finish some. (My lord used to
have a bad habit of putting wooden spoons in the dishwasher.)
I always just used olive oil. Slather it on and rub it in the best you
can. Then cook it in your microwave for several minutes to get it to
really sink in. Then wipe off any excess.
It always worked fine for me. The pieces never needed refinishing as
long as they were hand washed. (I think it was the combination of the
harsh detergent and hot dry cycle in the dishwasher that caused them to
dry out.)
Jessica Clark
SCA: Irene leNoir
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:35:50 +0200
From: Anna Troy <owly at hem.utfors.se>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wood Finshes for Food Items.
Norma Winter wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what can be used to coat the inside of a handmade
> wooden drinking mug?
>
> Sine
Well it depends a litte on on how it was made. But what you usually use
here in Sweden for eating utensils is parafin oil. Raw linsead oil can be
used as well but not boiled. The oil has more to do with protecting the
wood than keeping it from leaking 'cause wooden vessels hold liquids well.
Even if the vessel is stave-built like a barrel it doesn't leak beacuse of
the woods ability to swell. Wooden cups are also great for hot drinks
becaus they don't get hot the same way ceramic ones do. You have to be
carefull about what type of wood you use though since some can give you
beverage a taste. I made small sugar-spoon out of juniper and left it in
the sugar, after a couple of day boy did that suger taste strange! And the
spoon was made out of dry wood to.
Anna de Byxe
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:50:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Heidi Johnson <heidij at rocketmail.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Wood Finshes for Food Items.
---Irene leNoir <irene at ici.net> wrote:
<snip>
> I have however occasionally had need to re-finish some. (My lord used to
> have a bad habit of putting wooden spoons in the dishwasher.)
Mine, too!
> I always just used olive oil. Slather it on and rub it in the best you
> can. Then cook it in your microwave for several minutes to get it to
> really sink in. Then wipe off any excess.
>
> It always worked fine for me. The pieces never needed refinishing as
> long as they were hand washed. (I think it was the combination of the
> harsh detergent and hot dry cycle in the dishwasher that caused them to
> dry out.)
I'm glad to see I'm not the only person who does this. It works
especially well on utensils, and if you buy those cheap wooden cooking
spoons (sometimes you can sand them into a better shape, too), it
gives them a deeper color.
I think you're right about the dishwasher drying them out. I had
a wooden bowl crack in the dishwasher back in my slightly younger and
slightly more foolish days.
Kassia
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:50:38 -0700
From: "G. Shaver" <shaverman at mindspring.com>
To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>
Subject: Re: wooden mugs
From: Norma Winter
>Can anyone tell mewhat ca be used to coat the inside of a handmade wooden
drinking mug?
>
>Sine
The period answer is Brewer's Pitch, a "black rubbery stuff" which is hard
to find, must be heated to a very high (i.e. above 212 degrees and therefore
potentially "dangerous") temperature, and will leave the inside of your mug
a lovely shade of asphalt black. But after curing is tasteless, impervious
to boiling water, and will seal any cracks or imperfections. This is also
the preferred sealant for leather workers who require a slightly flexible
sealant in their leather cups and bottles. You melt the black, sticky pitch
(yes, it is not a euphomism) in a pot or can (which you will then resign to
"pitching", one way or another), pour the HOT liquid in the container, roll
it around once to coat all surfaces, and then pour back out. Once the
leftover cools, it can be stored 'til next time.
Several modern hi-tech alternatives are available, in the form of
acrylic resins. I have heard people having good luck with West Systems 2
part epoxy resin, which I will swear by for it's holding power, but have
never tried to drink out of afterward. A long curing period would be
recomended for serving ware, but once cured, such plastics tend to be inert
(read "tasteless"), and clear to allow the woodgrain inside the mug to be
appreciated. This is the preferred (non-period) sealant for drinking horns,
as it is tough and resiliant, actually strengthening the horn itself, and is
clear to allow the transluscent quality that adds to a horn's character.
Beeswax or oils (olive, etc) can be used, but with obvious drawbacks.
Beeswax will melt with heat. Some mugs (esp solid carved ones) probably
whouldn't be used with hot liquids anyway- stave mugs will flex slightly and
are less likely to crack with high temperatures. Oils will wear off, and
constant re-oiling well BEFORE usage (to allow time to soak in), is often
wearisome. And offer no crack-sealing potential. Likewise, seeing little
oilslicks in your coffee can be unappealing if over-oiled. But it's period,
and quite effective, if not as long term as the first two methods. And
works great for teak bowls, plates, and other food platters where a little
olive oil will never be noticed.
Always hand wash your mug and other wooden items, and do not leave them
soaking, unless you view ithem as short term disposable, in which case the
dishwasher will be fine for the season or two that they last. (And sure,
there are unexpected exceptions, but I don't like to bet on the exception,
rather than the rule.)
YiS
Gregoire
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:17:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tena Keefe <tfk31 at yahoo.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Epoxy warning and wooden mugs
--- "G. Shaver" <shaverman at mindspring.com> wrote:
> Several modern hi-tech alternatives are available, in the form of
> acrylic resins. I have heard people having good luck with West Systems 2
> part epoxy resin, which I will swear by for it's holding power, but have
> never tried to drink out of afterward.
>
> Gregoire
Please please do not apply either West or East system epoxy products to
any object which will contain food or drink. The result can be very
dangerous, even after total cure. My company works with the stuff, and
we've had a few serious health scares with cured epoxy causing severe
gastro-intestinal distress.
YIS
Constance
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:56:23 PDT
From: "Elonwen ap David" <elonwen at hotmail.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: wooden mugs
It didn't take that long to find out about salting and the method sounded
quite simple. You take a bowl of water and put as much salt in it as it only
takes. Then put in the (in this case) mug. Let it stay in the salt water
until it's taken in as much water as it possibly can (I don't know how long
it takes, but the wooden article should get notably heavier). Now this
prevents the mug taking in any other liquids except even saltier liquid
(that's not a problem, is it).
This leaves a salty surface (tastes awful), and it can be best removed with
alcohol (I did it with whiskey and it worked well).
This method has been used probably already in the Middle Ages, I'll try to
find out.
Elonwen
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 19:04:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat <mordonna22 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Scacooks] wooden utensils
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Stefan li Rous <StefanliRous at austin.rr.com> wrote:
There was also a merchant as this last Gulf Wars who had some nice
carved wooden spoons and other wooden kitchen utensils, on the end of
the merchant area nearest the camping areas.
Got his card right here: Wooden Spoons and More - Quality Hardwood Utensils
Royce Beigh beigh at maplenet.net
On the back he gives instructions for the care and feeding of his stuff:
Hand Wash Only
Following each of the first 3 washings, lightly sand the utensil with a
fine-grit sandpaper to remove the roughness of the grain arising.
Apply mineral oil each time. Occasional applications of mineral oil
will keep the wood from drying out and help prevent staining.
Mordonna
Pat Griffin
Lady Anne du Bosc
known as Mordonna the Cook
Shire of Thorngill, Meridies
Mundanely, Millbrook, AL
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 09:28:20 -0700
From: "Jill Brown" <ldygab at msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] To oil or not to oil?
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
I use a food grade Walnut oil for my wooden feast gear..it works great
and is again food grade.
Gab
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 08:32:44 -0700
From: Susan Fox <selene at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] To oil or not to oil?
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Volker Bach wrote:
> Am Montag, 3. Oktober 2005 00:21 schrieb otsisto:
>> Mineral oil if you must oil. Most oils mentioned below can and do
>> go bad. Linseed is not a food safe oil.
>
> That surprises me a bit as it is sold here both as a food ingredient and
> (mixed with 10% beeswax) as a treatment for wooden kitchen utensils. Is this
> an FDA regulation? They sometimes seem to go a bit over the top. I was quite
> surprised to hear that apparently woodruff was also disapproved of for children.
>
> Giano
I think what is going on here is two names for almost the same thing.
Almost.
The oil of flax seeds intended for human consumption is called Flaxseed
Oil and appears in health food stores.
The oil of flax seems intended for use in oil painting is called Linseed
Oil and is found in art supply stores. DO NOT EAT THIS because it
contains other non-edible substances that are good for paint but bad for
people.
There is no reason why you could not use the edible flaxseed oil for
your wooden kitchen implements, but I would add the beeswax like Giano
says, and possibly some Vitamin E oil [comes in a bottle, or just squish
a capsule] to slow oxidation and therefore rancidity. I also see a
"butcher block oil" composed of [painfully modern] Mineral Oil with
beeswax, which would be neutral enough and much less likely to produce
off flavors.
Selene, clarifying my oils.
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 09:01:18 -0500
From: Heather M <margaretnorthwode at frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] To oil or not to oil?
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Volker Bach wrote:
> Am Montag, 3. Oktober 2005 00:21 schrieb otsisto:
>> Mineral oil if you must oil. Most oils mentioned below can and do
>> go bad. Linseed is not a food safe oil.
>
> That surprises me a bit as it is sold here both as a food ingredient and
> (mixed with 10% beeswax) as a treatment for wooden kitchen utensils. Is this
> an FDA regulation? They sometimes seem to go a bit over the top. I was quite
> surprised to hear that apparently woodruff was also disapproved of for
> children.
>
> Giano
This is not the case here in the States. I use a similar treatment, and
it's a combination of mineral oil and beeswax sold commercially as salad
bowl wax. And, I might add, it's just lovely for my wooden utensils and
bowls.
Margaret Northwode, who also thinks it smells nice
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 08:33:34 -0700
From: "Jill Brown" <ldygab at msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] To oil or not to oil?
To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
[I asked whether walnut oil would go rancid – Stefan]
Stefan -
I believe it doesn't...I have had the same bottle for a couple years and I
keep checking it..so far so good. After each feast/event I wash my wooden
gear and then oil it to help protect it, etc. I purchased mine at Central
Market here in Washington State. It was recommended to me by a
professional chef awhile ago.
Gab
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 12:22:11 -0500
From: "otsisto" <otsisto at socket.net>
Subject: RE: [Sca-cooks] To oil or not to oil?
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
From a site on walnut oil.
"Once opened, all nut oils should be kept in a cool place out of the light
or refrigerated to prevent them from becoming rancid. Also, resist the urge
to stock up on large quantities of nut oils as they become rancid more
quickly than other vegetable oils."
Side note: "Walnut oil is not a cooking oil; high heat destroys its delicate
flavor."
Then came across this site;
http://www.rivannadesigns.com/enviroFinishes.html
I then found this which states contrary to the statement above.
http://www.dld123.com/q&;a/qandatemp.php?id=Q33
Lyse
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 21:18:40 -0500
From: "Sharon Gordon" <gordonse at one.net>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] The Wooden Bowl by Robin Wood
To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
This new book is the first authoritative account of the history of the wooden bowl. It details evidence of the turners craft dating back 4000 years and looks at the development of lathe technology, as well as the tools and timbers used.
Extracts from Medieval account books show the wide range and vast quantity of work turners produced and even how much they were paid. Many examples of their work recovered from excavations show the vessels from which our ancestors ate and drank and how the forms changed through the centuries.
http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/book.htm
<the end>